Steering arms installation error

[Jespinosa]

I was working on the steering of my build today and started aligning the power steering rack as per the post by Karlos https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?19175-Steering-Rack-Install-Setup-Procedure&p=215142&viewfull=1#post215142
and once I had everything aligned as per his instructions, I went to put the tie rod ends into the steering arms (not sure if that is the correct name) and noticed that they would not go in easily. I figured this would be an easy fix for my trusty dead blow hammer and nothing changed. I decided to measure both of the steering arms holes on top and on bottom and realized that the larger hole is on top on both sides. Both sides have everything installed and after removing some items, I noticed that the steering arm cannot be removed without the removal of a large part of the front suspension components. What is the best way to remove these arms without removing everything on the front suspension??

Additionally, when I installed the front suspension components, I did not add grease as I did not have my grease gun. Since it seems like I am going to have to take a few items apart to correct my error, is it better to grease everything while they are not torqued to spec or should I just reinstall everything and grease it after everything is retorqued.

[egchewy79]

unfortunately, I think you need to disassemble the front suspension to get the steering arms corrected. this includes removing that hub nut and getting new ones (one time use).
If assembled correctly, your zerk fittings should be all accessible without other parts in the way. This way, you can regrease things down the road w/o major hassle. If you can't get to them all, then you need to figure out what went wrong. I greased everything after it was all assembled and torqued to spec.

[JohnK]

If you've already installed the hubs you'll likely have to remove those to remove/replace the steering arms. other than that, I can't think of anything else that would be in the way. What else do you believe you need to remove? Posting a pic might be helpful.

[toadster]

common issue, I did the same thing, like stated above get new hub nuts

[Jeff Kleiner]

You have to remove the hubs but not suspension. When you reinstall them thaw big end of the taper points down and the arms angle outward.

Jeff

[Jespinosa]

I was hoping to remove the lower control arm and lower the bolt enough to slide the steering arm out as per the picture

194633

What I am seeing from everyone's responses, is that it seems that it is not an option and I have to remove the hub.

[Jespinosa]

unfortunately, I think you need to disassemble the front suspension to get the steering arms corrected. this includes removing that hub nut and getting new ones (one time use).
If assembled correctly, your zerk fittings should be all accessible without other parts in the way. This way, you can regrease things down the road w/o major hassle. If you can't get to them all, then you need to figure out what went wrong. I greased everything after it was all assembled and torqued to spec.

I can access all of the zerk fittings, I just wasn't sure if there was a certain time to have to grease the fittings.

I will fix the steering arms and grease the fittings at a later time.

Thanks

[Jespinosa]

What is the part # for the front hub nut. I was hoping to find it using the search function and I had no such luck.

Thanks,

[michael everson]

Just pull the lower ball joint out of the spindle then you can swap the arms.
Mike

[toadster]

What is the part # for the front hub nut. I was hoping to find it using the search function and I had no such luck.

Thanks,

this is the one I used

Dorman Spindle Lock Nut Kit 615-098.1 (https://amzn.to/47Ikpj9)
i've seen prices from $8 to $30

[gbranham]

And while you're at it, you'll want to replace the upper ball joint boots. Energy Suspension is the common replacement. I don't recall the part number, but it's searchable on this forum, and you can buy them on Amazon for around $10.

[toadster]

And while you're at it, you'll want to replace the upper ball joint boots. Energy Suspension is the common replacement. I don't recall the part number, but it's searchable on this forum, and you can buy them on Amazon for around $10.


yup! Did those too recently!!

Energy Suspension 5.13102G Ball Joint Dust Boot for Chrysler (https://amzn.to/48GguEy) ~$11

[Jespinosa]

yup! Did those too recently!!

Energy Suspension 5.13102G Ball Joint Dust Boot for Chrysler (https://amzn.to/48GguEy) ~$11

Thanks for the suggestion. I will definitely be ordering these and the lower ones to. When I was looking at the lower ball joints, I noticed that one of them was torn already so I guess it was a good thing I installed these incorrectly.

Are the lowers the same ones or are they another item??

Also, these lower ball joints are tough to remove. I rented the ball joint removal tool from Autozone and it is too short. Any suggestion for easy removal??

Thanks

[Tbev]

Thanks for the suggestion. I will definitely be ordering these and the lower ones to. When I was looking at the lower ball joints, I noticed that one of them was torn already so I guess it was a good thing I installed these incorrectly.

Are the lowers the same ones or are they another item??

Also, these lower ball joints are tough to remove. I rented the ball joint removal tool from Autozone and it is too short. Any suggestion for easy removal??

Thanks

194645
I bought a ball joint removal tool and had the same problem. So I made one out of threaded rod. Put a nut on the threaded rod up against the upper ball joint bolt. Put the lower ball joint nut on to protect the threads and have a nut on the threaded rod push up against washers. As you tighten the nut against the washers make sure the upper nut does not pop off the upper ball joint bolt. Keep tightening the lower bolt until the ball joint pops.

[CraigS]

Tbev that is brilliant!

[rvanstory]

I agree with Mike in post #9. Just pull lower ball joint out of spindle. Looks like your lower shock bolt is out, so you should have plenty of pivot to get lower C-arm out of the way to get the steering arm changed.

[gbranham]

Thanks for the suggestion. I will definitely be ordering these and the lower ones to. When I was looking at the lower ball joints, I noticed that one of them was torn already so I guess it was a good thing I installed these incorrectly.

Are the lowers the same ones or are they another item??

Also, these lower ball joints are tough to remove. I rented the ball joint removal tool from Autozone and it is too short. Any suggestion for easy removal??

Thanks

Pickle fork worked well for separating my ball joints from the knuckle. That Energy Suspension kit comes with two upper and two lower boots.

[Jespinosa]

194645
I bought a ball joint removal tool and had the same problem. So I made one out of threaded rod. Put a nut on the threaded rod up against the upper ball joint bolt. Put the lower ball joint nut on to protect the threads and have a nut on the threaded rod push up against washers. As you tighten the nut against the washers make sure the upper nut does not pop off the upper ball joint bolt. Keep tightening the lower bolt until the ball joint pops.

Tried this method this morning and it worked perfectly.

Thanks for the suggestion.

[Jespinosa]

Pickle fork worked well for separating my ball joints from the knuckle. That Energy Suspension kit comes with two upper and two lower boots.

Perfect.

I just ordered and they should be here tomorrow.

When I initially made the mistake, I was frustrated because I had read multiple post where this had happened, and I still made the mistake. In the end, I found one of the boots torn and I would have had to do this in the future anyways, so it works out.

Is there a grease that is recommended that can be used for the whole car or should I buy two different types of grease since some will be polyurethane and others will not?

[nashuanuke]

when I did this, it was actually easier to remove the hub nut and brakes. I was lucky enough to have not torqued it all the way to 250 yet. But it certainly was a foul languaged laced evening of me figuring that out the hard way.

[Mbufford]

That’s brilliant. I wish you had figured this out before I had to fix the problem!

[CraigS]

I use red synthetic grease in a small tub and in a grease gun tube. Being synthetic vs petroleum based it won't damage anything. When greasing the suspension pivots I like that the old grease has usually turned super dark so it is easy to see when you start getting red grease coming out you know you have replaced most all of the old grease. In my tub of grease I cut a small hole in the cap so a small brush is always sitting in there ready to grab to smear a bit of grease wherever I need it. BTW, for lots of car and house stuff I keep a tube of SilGlide or SuperLube clear grease on hand.
https://www.agscompany.com/products/sil-glyde-silicone-lubricant-tube