Clutch switch power?

[theidlemind]

Where does power come from for the clutch switch?
I don’t have power at either terminal.
I can’t get my starter to crank because it’s not recognizing that the clutch is in.
Part of my problem may come from this wire as it’s not hooked to anything.
See attached picture, blue wire. 194599194599
Thank You!

[dbo_texas]

You are missing the other half of the schematic which shows the clutch safety switch is tied to the START terminal on the ignition (so gets +12V BATT when you turn the key to START position) --> then goes to the clutch switch to close the circuit --> then goes to the starter solenoid.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=194600&d=1705504336

[theidlemind]

I’ve got that hooked up, just not getting power to it.
I’m using the Digital Dawg push button start, apparently it’s not sending power to the switch.
I’ll look harder at that.
So the wire I highlighted doesn’t get hooked to anything?

Thanks!

[jgray]

It is in line with the Start from the Ignition key switch to the starter solenoid. If you have replaced the ignition key it may no longer be in any circuit.

[Jeff Kleiner]

Power comes from the start terminal on the ignition switch and when the switch is activated it runs to the normally open clutch switch. When the pedal is depressed the n.o. switch is closed and allows power to engage the solenoid. If you get power going into the magical digital box but not coming out that’s where your problem lies.

Jeff

[33fromSD]

May not be the clutch switch at all. Could also be your starter. You may have a two wire starter which needs the large 12V batt. cable and and a second wire going up to the starter solenoid.

I'm not sure of your set up though, so just guessing.

Jim

[Dgc333]

Couple of things;
The wiring directions to the clutch switch is wrong in the manual. It should be on the same pair of terminals as the brake switch. Easy test is to try and start the car without pushing in the clutch, if it cranks you have confirmed the switch is wired wrong.

A quick and easy test to confirm the starter is good is to short the terminals on the starter. If it cranks the starter is good.

Beyond this you need to start testing the wiring with a DVM or test light.

[jgray]

Couple of things;
The wiring directions to the clutch switch is wrong in the manual. It should be on the same pair of terminals as the brake switch. Easy test is to try and start the car without pushing in the clutch, if it cranks you have confirmed the switch is wired wrong.

A quick and easy test to confirm the starter is good is to short the terminals on the starter. If it cranks the starter is good.

Beyond this you need to start testing the wiring with a DVM or test light.

I echo Dgc333’s comment about testing. “Continuity testing” with my cheap little multimeter has helped me understand an awful lot - what is connected to what, and the voltage testing to see if there actually is power flowing.

[theidlemind]

So it looks the the crank relay in my magic ignition box has failed.
I’ll have a new on next week and hopefully first start.
Thanks for all the replies, really helpful in getting this figured out.

[Papa]

The blue EFI crank power wire you pointed to in your original post has nothing to do with the clutch safety switch. All the safety switch does is open or close the starter solenoid circuit. I didn't use the EFI crank wire at all. It only gets power when the key is in the start position.

[jgray]

The blue EFI crank power wire you pointed to in your original post has nothing to do with the clutch safety switch. All the safety switch does is open or close the starter solenoid circuit. I didn't use the EFI crank wire at all. It only gets power when the key is in the start position.

Papa - thanks for bringing that to my attention! Another wire I can pull out!! I have already done a fair amount of dieting on the harness; I have left some wires to give me options later, but I don't need a wire that just gets power on start.