Tuning time!

[Rian_Colorado]

Finally got road legal yesterday, and i'm getting a chance to get some miles on the Daytona!

One of my next orders of business is to get the motor tuned (gen3 Coyote). I have a few questions for the 5.0 brain trust!

a) How long of a "break in" should be done before the tune is performed? I know there's 1000 opinions on break in procedures. I haven't taken the motor beyond about 5500RPM yet, and I'm not stoked about the idea of 7000 RPM in the first 200 miles (to do the full redline pull for the data logs). Let me know your thoughts on break in for a new crate motor (thanks to Mike Forte!) and if you think waiting a bit is the right way to go

b) I would love to have a good local tuner who could tune the car on a dyno - but I have no idea if there are any local to me (Denver metro would be awesome). It sounds like it's a challenge to get a local tuner with knowledge of crate motors too..... Let me know if anyone is familiar with reputable tuners in the Denver area?

c) I know that a lot of folks have gone with Lund - and I'm not opposed to that idea either. Seems like most have been happy with their results going this way. Any recommendations for "the right guy to work with" at Lund if I do go that route?

Thanks all, excited to get some seat time!!

Rian

[Windsor]

For (a) I'd ask the builder what they recommend.

[edwardb]

Quote from Ford on the Mustang GT (5.0): "Your vehicle requires a break-in period. Drive your new vehicle at least 100 mi (160 km) before performing extended wide open throttle maneuvers and at least 1,000 mi (1,600 km) before performance or competition conditions. Note: Vary your speed frequently in order to give the moving parts a chance to break in." Pretty generic. What you're doing easily meets this.

I'm surprised you're able to drive your Gen 3 Coyote without being tuned. My Gen 3 Coyote crate motor was undriveable on the base tune from Ford Performance. Bucked, cutout, threw codes related to an over rich condition. But that was when they first came out. If yours is drivable, they must have changed something. But I'd still check the codes just in case. The stock calibration by all accounts runs the engine rich.

I've used Lund several times and been very happy with the results. You don't really get a choice though. They assign your order to one of their techs. They know these engines and setups, so I wouldn't sweat trying to find a particular person. Having said that, their prices have gone way up. And some don't like the street driving to collect data. Especially the wide open throttle (WOT) pulls they want you to log. If you can find a dyno tuner that knows these engines, probably the better choice.

[Rian_Colorado]

Hey Paul!

Thanks for the statement from Ford, makes me feel a little better for sure.

Interesting that yours (and likely most of the other earlier gen 3's) Gave owners a lot of trouble until tuned! I actually was talking to the guys at formacars at one point who told me that they didn't recommend tuning it at all, as the stock crate motor tune was "fine". Just from being around the forums long enough.... I knew better than that! Mine definitely runs rich, just as you said. I can smell it..... No bucking or real issues running though. It has thrown a code for "idle too high" po-507. It does idle at about 1000-1100 rpm. Other than that it runs pretty smoothly. At least this gives me peace of mind that the MAF and the 02 sensors are all good, and that it's getting close to appropriate fuel pressure.

I'll likely go with Lund as well. Seems like they will have the most experience with the crate motors and the various FF applications. I have a few places locally where I'm OK doing WOT runs, so not too big of a deal. Of course it snowed and is going to be..... NOT... appropriate conditions to drive it again for few weeks, so it'll likely have to wait anyhow....

RR

[Railroad]

Be sure to get your alignment, brakes bedded, everything checked and road tested, BEFORE making the tuning pulls on the street. Be sure to get your tire pressures somewhere in the mid 20's plus or minus 2 lbs.
I did everything but the tire pressure adjustment. It was like riding on a beach ball and the speed gets up there pretty quickly.
I would also recommend doing a few panic stops in a controlled area. Brake balance and corner weights can make things get ugly, if you have to make an unplanned sliding stop.