Dash Layout

[bigal0043]

Hello, my harness arrived (merry Christmas to me), I’m looking at different dash layouts and notice I ordered the platinum gauges but I guess that doesn’t come with the clock or oil temp gauge.

Every layout I see has the 7 gauges, and I only have 6 (speed, tach, water temp, oil pressure, fuel, volt) am I missing a gauge? Or was that extra $ to get the clock gauge (351c have no oil temp locations)

Anyone pictures of 6 gauge layouts?

Alex

[AC Bill]

I was in the same boat. I added an oil temp gauge made by Stewart Warner, as it looked almost identical to the the Vintage gauges. I felt that would be more useful than a clock.

[runamuk]

I have the Factory Five vintage gauges (Speedhut). They come with oil pressure, coolant temp, fuel, voltage and clock, no oil temp

[CraigS]

If you want another gauge you can do that. Otherwise I would not worry about. Remember that original cobras were real close to every one being a little different. They were far from a production product. So, if your car is a little different, no big deal.

[BEAR-AvHistory]

I have the Factory Five vintage gauges (Speedhut). They come with oil pressure, coolant temp, fuel, voltage and clock, no oil temp

Might have changed over time. My set, 2014, came with both oil pressure & temperature, no clock. As said in many cases the original Cobra's don't exactly match up in every measure. Personally, I would add the oil temperature if it was not there or swap in an oil temperature gauge to replace a clock if one came that way.

[bigal0043]

Can someone provide a pdf or cad file or anything that shows the street dash gauge layouts with measurements? I found a very blurry photo online of one but i can't read the numbers. I went back and forth between that and the competition and decided to go street dash.

[Papa]

Here is one layout I found.

193721

193722

[bigal0043]

Hey papa, thanks for that, but that’s the competition layout, looking for the standard ff5 layout.

[bigal0043]

This is the dash layout measurements im looking for, i can't read the numbers though.193723

[John Ibele]

Sorry, can't help you with the street pdf, I too only have the print for the competition layout. I'm assuming from your request you're working with a blank dash. If so, not trying to dissuade you from going with what FFR happens to do with their standard kit dash, but I will suggest an alternative. I started with the print of the competition dash, but then set it aside. I took photos of the gauges, cut them out and put double stick tape on the back, and moved them around on the blank dash while seated in the driver's seat. I spent several evenings working on gauge, switch and light locations with the paper gauges and a sharpie marker. I ended up with a layout that gives me optimal visibility of the gauges and lights and easy access to switches and buttons in my driving position. For me it was a worthwhile deviation from FFR's stock layout.

[bigal0043]

Thats a great point John, maybe ill mount it blank like you mentioned and drop the seats in to get a better feel

[Papa]

Sorry, can't help you with the street pdf, I too only have the print for the competition layout. I'm assuming from your request you're working with a blank dash. If so, not trying to dissuade you from going with what FFR happens to do with their standard kit dash, but I will suggest an alternative. I started with the print of the competition dash, but then set it aside. I took photos of the gauges, cut them out and put double stick tape on the back, and moved them around on the blank dash while seated in the driver's seat. I spent several evenings working on gauge, switch and light locations with the paper gauges and a sharpie marker. I ended up with a layout that gives me optimal visibility of the gauges and lights and easy access to switches and buttons in my driving position. For me it was a worthwhile deviation from FFR's stock layout.


Thats a great point John, maybe ill mount it blank like you mentioned and drop the seats in to get a better feel

This would be my recommendation for a blank dash. My FFR padded dash has the street layout, and the speedo gauge could have been 1/8" lower to provide clearance to the body. Don't forget about how the body will fit over the top of the dash and that things will move over time.

[John Ibele]

Since you're considering it, one photo of an early doodle to get you thinking. Keep in mind the switches stick out, you need more room for proper ergonomics than you think when looking at a flat mocked up dash. If there are family members around, it's a good opportunity to grab a fresh set of eyes and independent assessment. Kinda fun. And you end up with something original but still very much in keeping with the heritage of the car if that's your thing.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50695196728_8fe7d52061_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2keL8N1)
Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/2keL8N1) by John Ibele (https://www.flickr.com/photos/familycobra/), on Flickr

[JohnK]

Sorry, can't help you with the street pdf, I too only have the print for the competition layout. I'm assuming from your request you're working with a blank dash. If so, not trying to dissuade you from going with what FFR happens to do with their standard kit dash, but I will suggest an alternative. I started with the print of the competition dash, but then set it aside. I took photos of the gauges, cut them out and put double stick tape on the back, and moved them around on the blank dash while seated in the driver's seat. I spent several evenings working on gauge, switch and light locations with the paper gauges and a sharpie marker. I ended up with a layout that gives me optimal visibility of the gauges and lights and easy access to switches and buttons in my driving position. For me it was a worthwhile deviation from FFR's stock layout.

I was going to recommend the exact same thing. The only other caution I'd give is to be mindful of the arched frame hoop behind the dash. The Speedhut gauges have a knurled mounting ring on the back that you need to take into account when positioning them so it doesn't interfere with the frame hoop.

[bigal0043]

So after getting everything mocked up on the car, i have decided that i really do not like the street layout and going back to the comp layout. Super glad for all the feedback. Thanks!

[bigal0043]

Maybe, i just am not looking close enough to the manual. But what controls the turn signals? Are those individual switches or something on the steering column that i dont see.

[Papa]

Maybe, i just am not looking close enough to the manual. But what controls the turn signals? Are those individual switches or something on the steering column that i dont see.

The kit comes with an on-off-on switch for the turn signals. The switches for the turn signals, hazard flashers, and high beams are shown in the wiring schematics.

[John Ibele]

So after getting everything mocked up on the car, i have decided that i really do not like the street layout and going back to the comp layout. Super glad for all the feedback. Thanks!

They call it the competition layout, but really, it has the most important things closest to you. Speedometer = not so important :cool:

[Oshkosh Rob]

John, As I read through as many threads as possible as I get ready to buy my MK4, posts like this are so exciting as I would have never thought to take this approach. This forum community is so cool and so willing to share that it makes me want to build this monster all the more. I will be buying the blank dash and taking this approach.

By the way, based on your 7th grade picture it seems you were destined to build on of these...who knew?

[John Ibele]

John, As I read through as many threads as possible as I get ready to buy my MK4, posts like this are so exciting as I would have never thought to take this approach. This forum community is so cool and so willing to share that it makes me want to build this monster all the more. I will be buying the blank dash and taking this approach.

By the way, based on your 7th grade picture it seems you were destined to build on of these...who knew?

I was the youngster in my family, by a lot. One of my best memories from early childhood was the day my brother drove me to grade school in his bright red Triumph TR-4. I’m sure that was what drove the urge to build a MK4 decades later. Always fun to hear what compels people to build these things.

[Fixit]

This is what I did on #9365 (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?27544-40-Watt-Garage-amp-9365&p=344109&viewfull=1#post344109)
Tips n Tricks (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?27544-40-Watt-Garage-amp-9365&p=344435&viewfull=1#post344435)

If you PM me with an email I'll send you the raw file in .png & .pdf

193749

[Ernie Orwig]

Where else is the ON-ON switch used? Other than High/Low beam? and where is everyone getting the billet looking switches

[Papa]

What is the ON-ON switch used for? and where is everyone getting the billet looking switches

The on-on switch is for the hazards and the on-off is for the high beams. Bullet switches are available from several sources like Watson Streetworks, Ron Francis, Billet Automotive Buttons, etc.

[Ernie Orwig]

That's interesting about the flashers? I thought The flasher had to go through a Double pole ( right and Left ) and I thought the High/Low Beam would be a ON/ON so that you go through one pole to the Low beam and toggle it to go through to the High Beam. Either way your lights are on!

I'm really confused now....Does the light switch from FFR have the built in dimmer or do we have to run a separate switch?

[Bob Cowan]

When I built my dash, I put the seats in place, and clamped a light about where my head would be. It cast a shadow on the dash of the steering wheel. I drew the outline of the shadow on the front, and the mounting bars on the back. That made it really easy to put things where I wanted.

[Papa]

That's interesting about the flashers? I thought The flasher had to go through a Double pole ( right and Left ) and I thought the High/Low Beam would be a ON/ON so that you go through one pole to the Low beam and toggle it to go through to the High Beam. Either way your lights are on!

I'm really confused now....Does the light switch from FFR have the built in dimmer or do we have to run a separate switch?

The hazards are a double-pole, but to ensure isolation, you only use one side (end) of the switch -- doesn't matter which end. The unused end turns the hazards off and the other end turns them on.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=193776&d=1703815762

The high beam switch may be an on-on as well. I didn't use it, so I may have mistaken what it was. I wired my high beam through a relay with a foot activated switch.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=126719&d=1587241103

[Papa]

I know that myself and many others are often confused by what is meant by pole and throw in switch terminology. I found this article that does a nice job explaining it in simple terms.

https://www.amplifiedparts.com/tech-articles/switch-poles-and-throws

[Ernie Orwig]

The hazards are a double-pole, but to ensure isolation, you only use one side (end) of the switch -- doesn't matter which end. The unused end turns the hazards off and the other end turns them on.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=193776&d=1703815762

The high beam switch may be an on-on as well. I didn't use it, so I may have mistaken what it was. I wired my high beam through a relay with a foot activated switch.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=126719&d=1587241103
Got it! Thanks for the update!

[Ernie Orwig]

Great Information!

[Carl-Build-Class-Nov-2015]

Great Read here. I have a question about the speedometer. Did everyone use the GPS or the cable driven speedometer, and does using the cable mean that the location of the speedometer must change?

[John Ibele]

Great Read here. I have a question about the speedometer. Did everyone use the GPS or the cable driven speedometer, and does using the cable mean that the location of the speedometer must change?

Not sure if I totally understand the question, but your chosen location for your speedo will not be in any way constrained - regardless of whether you have GPS or non-GPS flavor.

[Stangarang]

Great Read here. I have a question about the speedometer. Did everyone use the GPS or the cable driven speedometer, and does using the cable mean that the location of the speedometer must change?

I went with Intellitronix gauges to match the theme I wanted.
Michael

[dbo_texas]

I've got the billet switches for hazards. Anyone know what the pinout on their hazard switch is before I reach out and bug them?
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=192883&d=1701701355