My build plan. Critiques wanted.

[Wingman06]

I just placed my order as posted in an earlier thread, and after trolling these pages for a few months and getting feedback from that post here's my going in plan. With that said I know that no plan survives first contact, so fire away.

My goal is to make this a drivable cruiser. Not planning on any serious autocross or drag racing. Not saying I won't do those things, but just for fun, the majority of the time I will be cruising down the road making people jealous.

I'll start with the motor because I think this is where I will get the most push back. I went with the 347 with Sniper EFI. 400hp IMO will make the car more drivable than the 427 or overly complex 500+HP Coyote.
Hyd Clutch
3 Link Rear End
Went with manual steering rack.....is power steering really necessary on a car this light?
Wilwood Brakes
Standard vinyl covered dash with glove box
Wind Wings
Sun Visors
Trunk Gas Strut
Heater
Center Dash Support
Halibrand Wheels with the old fat lettered Goodyear's on them

I plan to add:
Hydraulic throwout bearing
Tilton master cylinders (3)
Wilwood Parking Brake
Breeze radiator cowl cover kit
Breeze hinged radiator mounting kit
Breeze lower radiator support kit
Breeze cubby kit
Breeze radiator fan shroud
Breeze lower radiator hose kit
Breeze lower radiator hose bracket
Breeze Dead Pedal
RT (or equivalent) turn signal kit
Seat heaters
FFMetal firewall forward kit-Maybe....
FFMetal transmission tunnel top
Boig upper radiator hose kit
Flex-A-Lite radiator fan
Cobra Herb's super nice door panels
Metco driveshaft hoop
Mechanical Throttle linkage - would like to see how others did this
Also interested in ideas for wheel well covers. I saw a kit mentioned somewhere but can't find it again.
Leaning toward powder coat on my visible tins then bed liner underneath, but want to learn more about shark liner before I decide
Looking for ideas for fresh air vents.

That's where I am so far.....please fire at will.

[Al_C]

I'd offer that power steering is a good option. It makes life a little easier in the parking lot (and elsewhere). I'm glad you added the Metco hoop to your list. I think that piece is most important. Didn't see (maybe I just missed it) what you're planning for headers.

[BlueSilver]

I am in the looking up info stage and must sell some stuff in the garage before I can buy a kit. One thing my info search found is the FFR gas tank filler gasket is prone to leak and some have replaced with the Ford part #F4zz9072da. maybe something you should consider.

[Papa]

I'll second the recommendation for power steering. I've heard and read all the debate on whether or not it is "needed", and through all of that, I have yet to read one post where someone that has it wished they didn't.

[GoDadGo]

Sounds like a great build plan to me and the 347 is a great power option.
Regarding the power steering, most folks like having it.
I may add it to mine one day, but I doubt it.
Add a nice air cleaner & valve covers.

https://www.ansenvalvecovers.com/search?page=2&q=cobra

Good Luck!

[edwardb]

Standard power steering comment: It's about front end geometry. Not mainly required effort. With power steering you can increase caster from the manual recommended 3 degrees to 7 degrees. Makes the car much more stable to drive, especially when cruising at speed. The lower effort when parking, etc. is a benefit for sure. But not the primary motivation. I'm five for five with power steering. The first one didn't have it when built, but later added. The rest when built. You won't regret it.

Totally on board with the 347. Been there done that and a great choice for these cars. But I do have to defend the Coyote just a little. You will have just as many things to hook up with your Sniper EFI as a Coyote crate motor with the control pack. I always do a doubletake when people say the Coyote is complicated but then dive into aftermarket EFI. Just saying...

The Wilwood MC's seem to get a lot of negative press. I've not had problems with them with thousands of miles. I suspect the Tilton's may be better. They make good stuff. But the Wilwoods are completely acceptable in my experience.

Not listed, but I highly recommend the Ididit 3100006040 High Beam/Low Beam Switching Relay. Replaces the manual low/high beam switch on the dash and allows a standard pushbutton for switching plus flash-to-pass. No reason to mess with the old style VW/Bosch latching relay that used to be common.

I'm a huge advocate for IRS. After having solid axles on several builds. A nicer ride and great handling. But I get it hits the budget. But also one of those things that can't be changed. Lots of the things on your list can be added to a completed car down the road. If you really decide you need it. Rear suspension is pretty much once and done. Just another way to think about it.

Congratulations on your order and enjoy the build. It's an exciting journey.

[Wingman06]

I was on the fence about the power steering until I read Ed's comment. That makes a lot of sense. The next question is electric or standard PS?

[Wingman06]

Planning to go with the stock headers

[edwardb]

I was on the fence about the power steering until I read Ed's comment. That makes a lot of sense. The next question is electric or standard PS?

I've had both and prefer the feel of a standard hydraulic setup for these builds. You'll get other opinions. But that's mine. Plus the electric isn't a standard option, so you'll have some customization and possibly a bit of fabrication to make it work. Not complicated necessarily, but something to be aware of. A PS pump on your engine and a PS rack (option on the order form) and you're good to go.

Paul B. (EdwardB)

[Lidodrip]

Sounds like a fun build!

I have no experience with a 347/EFI, but my experience putting in a Coyote was really straight forward (and this was the first engine I have ever installed). The street manners of the Coyote are great too. Hard to beat the looks of a 347 though...

I went with power steering for the same reasons Paul outlined and couldn't be happier. My power steering is hydraulic because I added a hydroboost power brake system and it all works off the same system. For the steering rack I also used the Breeze steering rack centering bushings which are a nice add.

Depending on road conditions, IRS may be something you want to consider. In New England, roads take a beating and the IRS is much appreciated.

If you are looking to save some money, you will probably find that stock Mustang brakes are more than adequate for street use - they were designed to stop a car that is 50% heavier. We learned how to powder coat and had fun making our stock brakes red.

I live in Maine and didn't install a heater. I have no regrets. Seat heaters work great and I was out driving last week when it was 45 degrees. Both my son and I were very comfortable and found that we actually had to turn the heaters to low.

VRaptor Wheelworks sell the wheel well liners - I haven't used them, but may add them in the future.

Good luck!

James

[scrubs]

So much of this is personal, my man. Best thing is to surf a lot.

Also, my suggestion when the build starts:

1) read the manual
2) search the forums for the step your on
3) make a decision on whether to proceed, alter order, buy more parts:)
4) ask the forum questions - I would not have completed this build without the people on this forum. They are patient, even when answering questions that have been asked 1k+ times and have clearly not been searched (I am guilty of this many times when flustered).



- "the 347 with Sniper EFI. 400hp IMO will make the car more drivable than the 427 or overly complex 500+HP Coyote." - I have a carbureted 347 from BPE. Plenty for this car. Having driven cars from 112bhp to 692 whp, I don't subscribe to the HP numbers being directly related to how easy it will be to drive in NA engines (even in modern FI engines). More related to your right foot.

- Hyd Clutch - yep

- Went with manual steering rack.....is power steering really necessary on a car this light? - I started with it and love it. In tight areas, I steer with 1 finger. See several add after the fact, just do it.


- Standard vinyl covered dash with glove box - I have this. If I did again would not do the glove box. The FFR glove box set up is cheapo. All I carry in the cockpit of the car is insurance and registration, can do that in Herb's panels.

- Wind Wings - I have these and added the Breeze side mirrors to them, did not use the FFR DS mirror. Also, used Papa's suggestion where my rearview mirroe is high/center on my windshield. Less holes in body and good view.

- Sun Visors - not sure the utility of these in this car:)

- Center Dash Support - bought this and did not use, was more obtrusive than anything else for me. Used the under dash supports from breeze (or was it replica parts?)

- Flex-A-Lite radiator fan - why this? I have 600 miles, stop and go in traffic and highway, no temp issues.


Welcome to the club,

j

[gbranham]

I'd echo Edward's comments on the Coyote vs 347 with Sniper EFI...a Gen3 Coyote is likely more plug and play than aftermarket EFI, and makes more power. The Coyote isn't 500+ HP, it's around 460HP, and very streetable from what I've learned. If money isn't a factor, I'd seriously reconsider the Coyote.

[Ducky2009]

Think about adding LED Headlights. I added them recently, what a difference. Was approx $160 earlier this year.

PL700 Tri-Bar Headlamps 54520293 - PAIR
AUXITO H4 9003 LED Headlight Bulbs 12,000LM Per Set 6500K Xenon White for High and Low Beam Hi/Lo Plug and Play, Pack of 2

Plug and Play.... No additional parts needed. No modifications to the existing wiring.

[CraigS]

Engine, if it is being built from nothing a 408 from a 351 should be the same $. I built a mild 408 that was still around 450hp but the beuty is you can drive around the neighborhood in 3rd at 1100rpm no problem. When you do the linkage you can set it up for some extra travel which makes fine tuning throttle application easier.
Power steering; absolutely YES. My goal was to make my FFR drive just like a standard car. PS let me do that, just like a very fast standard car.
Suspension; IRS is not that much more expensive. If you buy the parts as a takeout complete rear suspension from a salvage yard, and pick the right one, you get free rear brakes. They are very, very good brakes and everyone makes pads for them. Read all the threads about other brakes w/ this and that not fitting and understand that the toughest part of irs brakes is adapting the park cable to the lever. Go this way and you can cross off Wilwood rear brakes and Wilwood park brake. Heck irs might even be cheaper w/ this in mind. I know you are far from thinking of selling but, if I were looking for a used FFR, I wouldn't even look at a solid axle car.
Tires; I'd go w/ Nitto 555G2 or other modern tire and find the decals or stencils to get the 'GOODYEAR' look.
Forte has a throttle linkage kit. https://fortesparts.com
Rad fan; I am not sure what you mean by Flex-a-lite. I am familiar w/ the brand but is it an electric fan? What you want is an electric fan mounted in a shroud controlled by a temp switch w/ a manual override toggle on the dash. Check w/ Breeze.
A final thought; You don't have to do it super seriously but run autocrosses. The difference in your driving capability after a year or two of autocross will be unbelievable. At that point you will be completely 100% used to controlling the power and maybe looking for more. There are a few things in life that are more fun, but the thrill of exiting a corner and going full throttle at 3000 rpm and holding it til 6000 when you hit the brakes for the next turn is worth every $ you spent on your FFR.

[Jeff Kleiner]

Power steering…power steering…power steering. Refer back to what edwardb said. That is all.

Jeff

[cv2065]

Power Steering x100. The billboard tires that you reference from Goodyear only come in 15" sizes and are not DOT approved and technically not for highway use. They look great and many have run them, just understand the characteristics of the choice. If you wanted a bigger wheel, you'd have to go with tire stickers for the same look. Which many, including myself, have done and they look great as well.

Of course, everyone is here to help you spend your money...:p A couple more suggestions for your build:

Offset Rack Mounting Kit (Breeze)
Inclined Seat Frames (Breeze)
RT style gas pedal (Now from Breeze)
Quick Release Windshield Brackets (Forte)
Drop Trunk Mod (Mountain Metal Works)
Under Dash Fill Panel (Replica Parts)
Radiator Cowl Cover (Breeze)
Front Battery Box Relocation (Breeze)
Rear Quick Jack Plates (Replica Parts)
Bolt-Less Roll Bar Kit (520 Speedworks)
Roadster Radiator Aluminum Panel (Replica Parts)

I'd also consider the IRS as well.

Look forward to your build!

[John Ibele]

One brief comment on engines, touched on in previous posts. When you say 'Coyote', you are getting a modern engine which will have great manners and be quite docile when you're doing errands around town, and yet will behave every bit like an eager 400+ HP engine when you want it to as well. Just as importantly, one Coyote will yield essentially the same performance and driving characteristics as any other. Not true with a '347'.

You might expect me to say that I'm a proud Coyote owner, but you'd be wrong. I'm a happy 347 owner with a Sniper sitting on top. Cam selection, rear gear and transmission OD selection are a big part of the reason for that, along with a clutch that isn't fussy, and a throttle linkage which is linear, predictable, and uses its full travel. All of those matter more to drivability than HP, IMO. Like Craig, I can putter through the neighborhood without bothering anyone ... and cruise without fatigue at 60-70 mph for as long as I can in my DD. You'll be quite happy with your engine decision as long as you make related choices that are aligned with your use of the car.

[Mike.Bray]

Sounds like we're building similar cars. I went with the solid rear axle only because I needed it narrowed for pin drive wheels. I could have narrowed an IRS but just wasn't up for the marginal gains vs. expense and time it would have taken.

My engine, motors are electric, is a 351W bored & stroked to 393. The 347 will be a very nice engine for you, enough power to impress while being very drivable at the same time. Plus it's got the traditional Cobra pushrod looks. I'm very old school and love the looks of pushrod V8 engines, especially when they have stacks on them. I like a WOW factor. The Coyote is an amazing piece of modern engineering that the pushrod engine cannot compare to. It's more complex but I would guess the reliability is about equal to a pushrod engine. Remember, there were millions and millions of 302 and 351W engines built by Ford, they had it figured out. What I personally don't like about the Coyote is it's a BUFF and makes it embarrassing to open the hood. To me it just doesn't look "Cobra" like a pushrod engine does. If I had a Coyote I'm sure I would love driving it but I would lock the hood closed. That's just me.

Like you I was going to go with manual steering, never build a street rod or Cobra before that was anything different. Was convinced to go power steering by the forum for better front end geometry and driving stability. In the go karting I've done so far I'm extremely happy I did. Go PS, you will not regret it.

[edwardb]

Sounds like we're building similar cars. I went with the solid rear axle only because I needed it narrowed for pin drive wheels. I could have narrowed an IRS but just wasn't up for the marginal gains vs. expense and time it would have taken.

My engine, motors are electric, is a 351W bored & stroked to 393. The 347 will be a very nice engine for you, enough power to impress while being very drivable at the same time. Plus it's got the traditional Cobra pushrod looks. I'm very old school and love the looks of pushrod V8 engines, especially when they have stacks on them. I like a WOW factor. The Coyote is an amazing piece of modern engineering that the pushrod engine cannot compare to. It's more complex but I would guess the reliability is about equal to a pushrod engine. Remember, there were millions and millions of 302 and 351W engines built by Ford, they had it figured out. What I personally don't like about the Coyote is it's a BUFF and makes it embarrassing to open the hood. To me it just doesn't look "Cobra" like a pushrod engine does. If I had a Coyote I'm sure I would love driving it but I would lock the hood closed. That's just me.

Probably a good time to back away from the keyboard (what we used to say back in my working days when team members were tempted to send less than appropriate emails...) but I have to defend my fellow Coyote enthusiasts with real world experience. Over the past 12+ years I've attended hundreds of shows, cars and coffees, and displayed my builds at six Detroit Autorama's (huge crowds) plus two Factory Five open houses across all of my builds. I enjoy talking to people, answering their questions, etc., so always stay close to my cars when displayed. So have a pretty good idea of what people think. I've built two Roadsters with SBF's. First one pretty generic with shiny valve covers and a Cobra air cleaner. But that was about it. The second a custom 347 with a bunch of shiny parts and billet pieces. Installations were clean, traditional, and always received positive responses. Then built a Roadster with a Gen 2 Coyote and most recently a Gen 3 Coupe with a Gen 3 Coyote. I always display with the hood open and have never received a negative comment about the Coyotes. In fact, most are surprised and comment about how cool it is to have a modern powerplant in a vintage style vehicle. A common trend across the car hobby.

I totally get that some want a vintage look (and sound) and I highly encourage and support them to build it that way if that's what their vision is. But in the most positive, encouraging, and Christmas cheer possible, have to say that ruling out a Coyote because of its looks and that you'd be ashamed to even open the hood is more than just a little over the top. :p

[Jim1855]

I heartly agree with Paul. It's your car, your hotrod. What I or others like, want or believe is "correct" has little to do with your build. Other than safety or potential failure pieces pretty much anything goes.

If Peter Brock can put a LS7 in place of a RDI aluminum block SBF 427 (btw same motor as I have) in his SPF "Brock" Coupe with a T56, pretty much anything goes. Peter's comment to my friend that bought his RDI was that "it's just a hotrod".

I hope I managed to maintain the Christmas spirit. Best and a Merry one to all.

Jim

[Mike.Bray]

Probably a good time to back away from the keyboard (what we used to say back in my working days when team members were tempted to send less than appropriate emails...) but I have to defend my fellow Coyote enthusiasts with real world experience. Over the past 12+ years I've attended hundreds of shows, cars and coffees, and displayed my builds at six Detroit Autorama's (huge crowds) plus two Factory Five open houses across all of my builds. I enjoy talking to people, answering their questions, etc., so always stay close to my cars when displayed. So have a pretty good idea of what people think. I've built two Roadsters with SBF's. First one pretty generic with shiny valve covers and a Cobra air cleaner. But that was about it. The second a custom 347 with a bunch of shiny parts and billet pieces. Installations were clean, traditional, and always received positive responses. Then built a Roadster with a Gen 2 Coyote and most recently a Gen 3 Coupe with a Gen 3 Coyote. I always display with the hood open and have never received a negative comment about the Coyotes. In fact, most are surprised and comment about how cool it is to have a modern powerplant in a vintage style vehicle. A common trend across the car hobby.

I totally get that some want a vintage look (and sound) and I highly encourage and support them to build it that way if that's what their vision is. But in the most positive, encouraging, and Christmas cheer possible, have to say that ruling out a Coyote because of its looks and that you'd be ashamed to even open the hood is more than just a little over the top. :p

Merry Christmas

We build these cars to suit our individual tastes be that color, wheels, or drivetrain. What I'm saying is one of the reasons people like and build Cobras is the over the top looks and attention getting quality they have. In 50 years of messing with cars, mostly street rods which are an entirely different breed, there's two things people look at the most, the interior and the engine. Go to any car show and watch anyone who walks up to a car. So I always went for the wow factor in these two areas, not just a plain SBC with a Holley carb. But to each his own.

https://www.imagecoast.com/images/MichaelBray1/plugwiring.jpg

https://www.imagecoast.com/images/MichaelBray1/enginebay.jpg

[Railroad]

If you add the cubby hole option to your build, I would recommend hinging the back partition. I did not and have to do any roll bar, seat belt, hidden disconnect switch work through the cubby hole opening.
How do you spell contortion?

[Jeff_J.]

Welcome to the build process.. Lots of similarity between your build and mine as well but i'm sure many could say the same.
Regarding the cubby, I decided to make my own with a door to a small box between the roll bar posts about 10" deep, I have the heater as well and didn't install a glove box.
193667
Mechanical Throttle linkage: I purchased the kit from Mike Forte - really good quality and works perfectly, many like it a lot. Read some posts regarding install experiences as the install can be a little tricky, there can be a clearance issue with the top of the foot box and the gas peddle bell crank. This is also a good time to decide if you want to change the gas peddle as others have done as well.
193668
193669
193670

[michael everson]

Coyote and IRS. You can get the IRS option from FFR then source all the needed parts to complete on Ebay etc. Might even come in cheaper than a rebuilt 8.8 with brakes.
The Coyote is a great alternative to the old pushrod engines. They don leak, they don't smell, the typically run flawlessly and you get 465 horse right out of the crate. I bet that much horsepower in a small black is going to be temperamental.
BTW I have never seen the need to remove the windshield. I would skip the brackets.
Mike

[edwardb]

Merry Christmas

We build these cars to suit our individual tastes be that color, wheels, or drivetrain. What I'm saying is one of the reasons people like and build Cobras is the over the top looks and attention getting quality they have. In 50 years of messing with cars, mostly street rods which are an entirely different breed, there's two things people look at the most, the interior and the engine. Go to any car show and watch anyone who walks up to a car. So I always went for the wow factor in these two areas, not just a plain SBC with a Holley carb. But to each his own.

https://www.imagecoast.com/images/MichaelBray1/plugwiring.jpg

https://www.imagecoast.com/images/MichaelBray1/enginebay.jpg

Yeah, that's it. Post the ugliest Coyote picture you can find. Can be done a lot better, as many have. You cited your experience. I cited mine. Like we both said, build it the way you want. I'm out.

[Ford & Jeep Fan]

I just placed my order as posted in an earlier thread, and after trolling these pages for a few months and getting feedback from that post here's my going in plan. With that said I know that no plan survives first contact, so fire away.


I plan to add:
Hydraulic throwout bearing


Mechanical Throttle linkage - would like to see how others did this

..please fire at will......

I'm not a fan of either of these two.
first I like a hydraulic clutch,... as long as All its parts can be replaced in 40 min.
The hyd throwout bearing looks to me like "reinventing the wheel" It does save some time for the OEMs on the assembly line.
Remember brake fluid does not like to sit for long times of inactivity.

Mechanical throttle linkages were abandoned in the early 70s by the Big car companies in favor of cables. Mostly for safety reasons.

[cv2065]

Mechanical throttle linkages were abandoned in the early 70s by the Big car companies in favor of cables. Mostly for safety reasons.

A bit different in the Cobras. Might want to try and compare both. The control and sensitivity of the mechanical setup is amazing, especially when combined with the RT pedal.

[DW66]

I just want to echo Paul. My car won the Factory Five open house in 2022 for Best Roadster and my hood was open;) Have a great day.193712193713

Dave

[CaptB]

IMHO, the 347 is the best cost per HP build you can do. I drive a Windsor based 427 but I ran into some extra cash or the 347 would have been my choice.

Can't say power steering is a must but I do like mine.

Capt. B

[CraigS]

It's been many, many years since I switched to a linkage. Prior to that I used a few different cables. I tried an OE Mustang cable but the length was not enough so the bends were tight. Also it had very specific cable ends and sheath end mounts so it was a real pain. I never got around to trying any other OEM cables. I had what was a well done cable install but decided to go to linkage anyway. Oh WOW. The linkage was so much smoother and so much lower effort the car was almost undriveable. Every tiny bump moved my foot and the pedal. I was running the same RT pedal ( I did mine before Forte was selling his kit) cable and linkage and the same return spring on the carb. I went around my neighborhood block once and came back to double up on return springs. Now it was driveable but I went to a slightly stronger spring in the next couple of weeks. BTW JeffJ is correct about room for the inside the footbox bell crank. So mount the rod ends just barely on top of the 2x2 steel frame tube. I had to make my washer behind the dash kind of a capitol D shape so the flat side sat on the 2x2.

[gbranham]

I'd much rather see an 'undressed' Coyote under the hood than chrome everything with chrome stacks. That DOHC, VCT, fuel injected beast of a 302 that churns out 460HP and is reliable as, and docile as my daily driver...that's got the cool factor for me. Spending metric dollars on chrome bits that add nothing but looks seems like a waste of money to me. It's akin to the Corvette crowd...at car shows, proud Corvette owners open their hoods to show off thousands of dollars in cosmetic (and usually fake) carbon fiber bits like radiator caps, brake reservoir caps, carbon fiber dipstick loops, etc, and then everyone shuns the one dude that shows up with an undressed Corvette engine, save the Procharger nestled in nicely. Neither side is wrong or right...just difference of opinion. But to be truly embarrassed to open your hood if you have a Coyote under it...that's just goofy. Based on your comments above, seems you're more worried about what others think of your car than what you think. But hey...you do you.

[Jeff Kleiner]

No matter what’s under it the best part is keeping the hood closed and just enjoying the view over it while on a nice twisty road.

Jeff