...and so it begins.

[Wingman06]

Put down my deposit on the 18th with a requested delivery date of the first week of October to line up with my retirement. I've been trolling these forms for sometime and already have some questions.

1. Value of the build school in MI?
2. What are your favorite aftermarket parts that you added to your project? (gas pedal and louvers for example)?
3. For those who go with the brushed aluminum look in the engine bay, what coatings are best?
4. I've seen a few guys opt for different carpet. Is there a vendor that provides a pre-cut kit?
5. For those who outsource paint and body work, do you gap everything before you send it off or give them the whole car and let them sort it out?

Looking forward to this journey. Thank you all in advance for your guidance.

[Bill Elliott]

My favorite aftermarket part is the Wilwood Electronic Parking Brake. Just not a fan of the kit provided cables running under the frame and all. Although I am not finished with my build I can say so far.

[robmccon]

Welcome! Tell us more about what options you’ve selected (drivetrain, wheels, etc).
1. I found the build school hugely beneficial. Getting to put your hands on building the car, ask tons of questions, hear the other students’ plans, and getting the benefit of the instructors years of experience.
2. I’m only partway through my build, but my favorite mods so far are Breezes power steering hose kit, upper/lower radiator supports, and rear cockpit cubby. I also have Russ Thompson (RIP) accelerator pedal and drop trunk kit.
3. A few options on this, I chose to powdercoat all visible panels.

Hope that helps!

[Mike.Bray]

I give this a shot.

1. Probably depends on your experience and skill level with mechanics, electrical, and general automotive knowledge. I didn't go and was able to find a treasure trove of information/answers here on the forum.

2. Boy, where to start? Here's my list with some being over the top.

Wilwood brakes
Hydraulic throwout bearing
Tilton master cylinders (to fix the sizing and increase reliability)
Breeze/RT gas pedal
Breeze billet side view mirrors
Wilwood remote brake balance bar adjuster
Breeze radiator cowl cover kit
Breeze hinged radiator mounting kit
Breeze lower radiator support kit
Breeze battery box
Breeze seat mounts
Breeze offset rack mounting kit
Breeze vent check valve
Breeze cubby kit
Breeze radiator fan shroud
Breeze lower radiator hose kit
Breeze lower radiator hose bracket
RT (or equivalent) turn signal kit
Forte seat heaters
Forte quick release windshield brackets
FFMetal firewall forward kit
FFMetal transmission tunnel top
Boig upper radiator hose kit
E-Stopp electric parking brake
Flex-A-Lite radiator fan (pulls more air and doesn't drown out the exhaust like the FFR one)
Cobra Herb's super nice door panels
Metco driveshaft hoop

3. My panels are clear anodized.

4. I used the FFR supplied carpet and didn't think it was bad. I think you would need marine-grade carpet if you change it.

5. That's a personal cost vs. time decision.

[nashuanuke]

build school: if you have the time and money, I suggest do it. If you're a seasoned mechanic, you don't "need" to, but you will learn little tips and tricks that definitely help. I think for me, the biggest value was when I got the kit delivered, I knew exactly what I needed to do. Where to start, what to look for, what to expect. I've never had a day in my build (yet), where I didn't know what the next couple of weeks looked like as far as next steps, and what components I'd be working on and what tools I'd need (minus little things here or there).

In the meantime, there are a few builders that have done a good job video documenting their builds. If you haven't already, I suggest mining youtube, at the least, check these folks out (they're all on here too):

https://www.youtube.com/@AmateurHourGarage
https://www.youtube.com/@randomwerks3763
https://www.youtube.com/@i.e.427garage9

[BRRT]

I'm still building, so I can't weigh in on everything but:
#1 - I went to build school, had a great time, and learned a lot. It helped me make decisions on several options plus feel confident that I could fit in the car. Seat selection is critical if you are much over 6' tall. You get a $250 discount on your car order if you go to build school.
#5 - Completely depends on the guy doing your paint and bodywork. Find someone you trust, talk to them.

The first morning of build school we met in a classroom and did introductions, then went to the shop to get started. My first impression was "holy ****, that thing is tiny!".

[toadster]

loved the build school, documented our fun :)

https://cobradreams.com/2019/08/15/factory-five-build-school-my-son-and-i-had-a-blast/

[John Ibele]

I'll add my 2 cents:

1. I attended, took my boys along and had a blast taking notes while they turned wrenches. I'd say it's hugely beneficial if you're basically completely new to cars and how they work, as I was. I think the value of the class goes down rapidly with any past car repair or maintenance experience.
2. I won't try a comprehensive list, but will start with the subset of Mike's which I also did, then will add a few ...

Standard kit GT brakes. With the right pads, I'm perfectly fine with them. There's plenty of stopping power. That said, if I were to do it over, I think this is the first option I'd add back in.
Cable clutch for me, and no regrets. Get the genuine Ford cable, though.
CNC reservoirs (no longer available new, I think).
Breeze/RT gas pedal
Breeze hinged radiator mounting kit
Breeze lower radiator support kit
Breeze battery box
Breeze offset rack mounting kit
Breeze vent check valve
Breeze radiator fan shroud
Breeze lower radiator hose kit
Breeze lower radiator hose bracket
RT (or equivalent) turn signal kit
Cobra Heat seat heaters
Boig upper radiator hose kit
Flex-A-Lite radiator fan (pulls more air and doesn't drown out the exhaust like the FFR one) - don't have this yet, but will add it before next summer. The CFM on the kit fan is marginal, and I already live near an airport, so don't need the sound of a B52 taking off when the fan goes on ...
Cobra Herb's super nice door panels - on my list.
Metco driveshaft hoop

I'll add a few more things. Not sure if these first items are really options, you should just plan on them:

#1 on your list of kit options should be power steering. Hopefully that's what you ordered.
Sound / heat barrier. Probably best not to call this an option, but rather an essential for any quality build.
Similar story with underbody coating (or bed liner, search forum for debate over one vs. another). Needed to keep rocks from causing star blemishes in your nice new paint job.

Other options I added:

Heater - for me, a great addition here in MN. Along with the seat heaters, it makes a cruise in 50F comfortable. But if you do it, plan on adding a true 4 port bypass valve (https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Operated-Bypass-Heater-25-1018/dp/B00LEUVB30/ref=sr_1_3?crid=19FHB18FHHW85&keywords=4+port+bypass+heater+valve+cold+air+produ cts&qid=1703214748&sprefix=4+port+bypass+heater+valve+cold+air+produc ts%2Caps%2C96&sr=8-3), rather than the one in the Vintage Air kit, otherwise you're going to get hot air blowing into the vents even with the fan off.
Fresh air vents. With or without fans, I think worth it.
Mechanical throttle. I built my own based on designs already shared on the forum, but most use Forte's which is also good.
OEM trunk liner material.
RT drop trunk.
e-brake modded to avoid having cables going under the frame. Not a lot of work, and plenty of information on the forum on how to do it. Completely happy with the end result.
Under-dash stiffeners and tranny tunnel top stiffeners - made my own. Really adds to the solid feel in the cockpit.
Glove box, grab handle, console box. Made my own. Custom touches are fun if you like that sort of thing, and add something unique to your build. They can also take a lot of time.

3. My visible engine bay panels are sprayed in silver / gray hammer tone. I love the way they look. I will never, ever do this again, and wouldn't recommend it.
4. I'm with Mike on this one, I'm fine with the kit carpet.
5. I drove in gel coat this past summer, and I'm very glad I did. It was nice to go on 1500 mi. worth of shakedown cruising without worrying a bit about paint. To do that, I fit all panels the best I could and gapped them tight, knowing that the painter would need to gap them to their preferred final gap. But I figure I saved some labor, and I didn't want to cover my work with poor fitting panels. Even in gel coat, you get plenty of attention.

Hope that helps. Good luck with the planning and anticipation phase of the project, which is as fun as every other phase, in my experience.

[edwardb]

1. I didn't attend the build school before my first builds, even though it's almost in my back yard. Didn't know about it back them. Based on visiting several times plus comments here, I think it has two major purposes: (1) Many use it as a buy decision. Is this something I want to do and what's it like? (2) For those who are less mechanically experienced, gives hands-on experience of what's required for the build. Again, to provide confidence (or not...) if this is something to do. If you are experienced with automotive mechanics, including custom car builds, and prepared to dig in with the manual and build experiences documented here, maybe more optional IMO. But certainly doesn't hurt.

2. You can go crazy with options, as evidenced by the lists, but in nearly all cases depends on what you want from the build and something you can decide as you go. Plus obviously budget related. I've said multiple times that the stock kit, built just as the manual shows and provided by Factory Five, results in a solid and very workable/drivable build. You can leave it there or go to whatever lengths you want with mods and accessories. Each of my builds I've tended to push the envelope even further, so I'm not one to talk. But I'd put very few of the available mods in the "required" category.

3. I'm a powder coat advocate, so can't comment other than I just build that cost into the project budget. It's more durable than paint and everyone who paints at the end says it was more work than they expected. But again, depends on what you want (and are willing to pay for...).

4. I've experimented with a couple of the other carpet options, Bentley Automotive Carpet being one that is often cited. But didn't find it was worth it. At least for me. I'm not aware of any aftermarket precut options, although you can use the kit supplied pieces as templates. My observation about the kit supplied carpet is that it's fine for everywhere except the footwell bottoms where it will wear and to a lesser degree on the tunnel side by the accelerator pedal. I always use floor mats and put a vinyl pad by the accelerator. Multiple driving seasons later still looks fine.

5. Depends on your skill level and also you need to discuss with your body/paint shop. You can give them something ready to start or something that actually adds work and costs you more in the long run.

[k-roy]

2. You can go crazy with options, as evidenced by the lists, but in nearly all cases depends on what you want from the build and something you can decide as you go. Plus obviously budget related. I've said multiple times that the stock kit, built just as the manual shows and provided by Factory Five, results in a solid and very workable/drivable build. You can leave it there or go to whatever lengths you want with mods and accessories. Each of my builds I've tended to push the envelope even further, so I'm not one to talk. But I'd put very few of the available mods in the "required" category.



As usual, agree with EdwardB. Just remember--the more options you add, the more complexity you add. In an exponential sort of way. Just remember how much time you want to put in, and how good you are at problem solving. Some of the options I added to mine slowed the build down to a snail pace. But since you asked....

Two main options I would recommend
1. Breeze Lower radiator mount
2. Breeze Upper radiator mount

Beyond that
1. Breeze front battery relocation
2. Breeze rear cubby.
3. Trunk gas struts (although not compatible with the rear cubby, can be made to work).
4. .... Just Read Mike Bray's list....

[Mike.Bray]

3. Trunk gas struts (although not compatible with the rear cubby, can be made to work).
4. .... Just Read Mike Bray's list....

I was able to get the trunk gas struts to work with the cubby and I'm really glad I did.

[nucjd19]

Agree with everything said above particularly Edward. As usual he is spot on. I'll add my experience...
1. Did not do the build school as COVID was in full swing. I still think they could make a lot of money by creating an online course for folks who cant make it due to time issues.
2. will split into 2 categories..... The ones I did on th front end and the ones I did later after the build and wished I had done on the front end.
Done on the front End:
A. CF Dash (Awesome!!!!!! Looks great and glad I did it)
B. Mechanical throttle linkage ( Does an amazing job modulating the throttle and is soooooo smooth)
C. Drop Battery mod by FFMetal. (drops the CG and cleans up my trunk.)
D. Koolmat from Breeze. ( was a little tricky to instal but there is ZERO heat transfer into the footboxes with a great carpet feel)
E. LED Headlights ( Not retro at all but being bright is a safety feature )
F. Dead pedal from Breeze. (I LOVE it!!!!!! every time I drive I think "Wow I am glad I got this )
G. RT (RIP) drop trunk mod. ( He is really missed in the community. Was talked into the drop trunk mod and really glad I did it.)
H. FFmetal trans cover ( did a CF skinning to match the dash. Great product! Turned out great!)
I. Adjustable seats ( added about a week into the build but I just love them.)
Things I did after the build I wish I would have done during the build.
A. Breeze/RT gas pedal. It is SOOOOO much better than the pedal that comes with the kit IMO.
B. FFR trunk gas pistons to keep the trunk open. (Would have been SOOOOOO much easier when the body was off.)
C. Front sway Bar. ( Many on hear will tell you it is not needed but it helped my snap oversteer on my rig. This is build specific)
D. Locking rings for the fake spinners ( Many ways to do this but this is quite elegant.)
E. Wheel well inserts to finish off the wheel wells. ( Looks great and really polishes the wheel wells.)
2. Brushed aluminum. I brushed mine and coated with Shark Hide. IMO turned out great. Here is a picture.....https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=139697&d=1608684904
4. Used the FFR carpet and liked it.
5. I actually did gap and luckily per my paint body guy I did a very good job. BUT per Jeff Kleiner ( FFR paint and body MASTER ) If you are not planning on doing paint and body work yourself, gap just enough to allow the door, hood and trunk to close leaving material for those guys. He is 100% right. Let those guys set the gaps.
Good luck!!!! You will be cruising with the rest of us very soon :)
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=177361&d=1672360217

[Wingman06]

Excellent feedback, thank you all. I raced everything from go-karts to winged sprint cars with my son so I am very comfortable with the mechanical piece. I think I will do the minimum gapping on the body, put a few hundred miles on it and then send it off to the pro's for finish work and paint.

I'll list what I what I ordered in a separate post.