View Full Version : UCA to Spindle Gap
cv2065
12-13-2023, 10:13 PM
When assembling the UCA to the spindle on the IRS rear suspension, the instructions say to ensure that the rod end is not touching the spindle. I've got about 1/8" space there. See picture. Is that enough? I know boring out the hole off center can impact this, but wasn't sure if this straightens out when on the ground or if this is enough of a gap to avoid any future rubbing? Thanks.
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CraigS
12-14-2023, 08:06 AM
That clearance will be fine.
cv2065
12-14-2023, 08:18 AM
Thanks Craig. Will that clearance change when the car is on the ground?
Kbl7td
12-14-2023, 08:36 AM
Why don’t you just take the shock off and move it up? Thats a fixed joint, if you’re clearance changes enough to rub then you have bigger problems.
cv2065
12-14-2023, 08:54 AM
Why don’t you just take the shock off and move it up? Thats a fixed joint, if you’re clearance changes enough to rub then you have bigger problems.
I was referencing the clearance between the rod end and the spindle.
Kbl7td
12-14-2023, 12:13 PM
I was referencing the clearance between the rod end and the spindle.
So was I. My point is if the shock/spring is installed, remove it and then move the assembly up and down to mimic travel. No need to set it on the ground. Additionally, that heim joint can be fixed once the two nuts are locked down.
cv2065
12-14-2023, 04:32 PM
So was I. My point is if the shock/spring is installed, remove it and then move the assembly up and down to mimic travel. No need to set it on the ground. Additionally, that heim joint can be fixed once the two nuts are locked down.
Ah, I see what you are saying. Here it is at full droop. I adjusted the rod end slightly to the left as well. Does it matter where the rod end is fixed? Meaning that does it need to be exactly aligned with the toe arm or can it move as needed to avoid any contact?
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CraigS
12-15-2023, 06:23 PM
Where you have it will be fine. I usually rotate it left and right, and then split the difference and lock it down. You haven't gotten into alignment yet so a little explanation of how this works may be helpful. See the nut shaped hex in between the other hexes? This is your camber adjuster. You may notice that the threads on it are right hand and the threads on the rod end itself are left hand. So when it is turned, it makes the control arm either longer or shorter. The other two hexes are jam nuts. The larger one locks the adjuster to the control arm and the smaller one locks the rodend to the adjuster. I leave the jam nuts loose until I get alignment close and then I will snug them a bit before making my next measurement. Reason is that loose to tight on the jam nuts actually makes the control arm just slightly longer. Hope this helps.