Hydraulic Clutch Pedal Adjuestment

[cdurbin328]

I've searched the forum and read a ton of info but I never really found what seemed to be an answer...
Is there a way to adjust the clutch pedal so the engagement is sooner in the travel?
Right now I have to dang near push it through the footbox to get it to disengage the clutch.

[Ted G]

I've had the same problem with mine but you get used to it. Another option that I did was to extend the pedal with a block (Breeze sells them). This pushed the pedal out about 1 1/2" so it "seems" to be earlier.

[cdurbin328]

I just looked on the Breeze website and I don't see anything like that.

[MB750]

What's the total friction zone?

If you could alter the length of the lever arm against the MC you could narrow down the friction zone (which would make the clutch fully disengage further up from the firewall), but these Wilwood cast clutch pedals don't seem to offer such and adjustment.

I went with a 1.125" master cylinder, and my friction zone is about 5" of pedal sweep from fully engaged to disengaged. It's almost too tight.

[Mike.Bray]

A larger bore MC will do the trick.

[edwardb]

I agree that right-sizing the master cylinder may be the required solution. But first, need to make sure it's set up and adjusted properly. What kind of hydraulic setup? External slave on a standard clutch fork? Or an internal hydraulic throw-out bearing? How much slack, if any, do you have at the top of the clutch pedal throw? If it's the external slave type, the clutch arm should be roughly perpendicular to the driveline when at rest. If the pivot is wrong and it's too far forward, that can cause the symptom you're describing.
How do you have the clutch pedal adjusted? I like it even with the brake pedal. But some like it, and find it necessary, to have it higher than the brake pedal.

Some put spacers on top of the clutch pedal for short drivers because there aren't other options. But I wouldn't use that solution for a setup issue.

[Mike.Bray]

I have a Tilton hydraulic throwout bearing and a 0.812" bore MC works perfect. The master cylinders FFR supply are all 3/4" I believe.

[cdurbin328]

I agree that right-sizing the master cylinder may be the required solution. But first, need to make sure it's set up and adjusted properly. What kind of hydraulic setup? External slave on a standard clutch fork? Or an internal hydraulic throw-out bearing? How much slack, if any, do you have at the top of the clutch pedal throw? If it's the external slave type, the clutch arm should be roughly perpendicular to the driveline when at rest. If the pivot is wrong and it's too far forward, that can cause the symptom you're describing.
How do you have the clutch pedal adjusted? I like it even with the brake pedal. But some like it, and find it necessary, to have it higher than the brake pedal.

Some put spacers on top of the clutch pedal for short drivers because there aren't other options. But I wouldn't use that solution for a setup issue.


I have the stock internal hydraulic clutch setup that came with the Coyote 6sp MT82 transmission. Currently the pedal is higher than the brake. I had to adjust it that way so it would work correctly. I think that the MC might be too small which is requiring more pedal travel to push enough fluid to disengage the clutch. I could be wrong but seems logical.

[Kbl7td]

You’re either going to have more travel and less effort or less travel and more effort. Only other way is changing the connection point on the pedal to alter your fulcrum/load.

[Mastertech5]

I know you may not want to do this but, do you have the hydraulic throwout bearing spaced properly with the shims? It sounds like you may not have enough shims behind the bearing. There is a spec for this by the bearing or clutch manufacturer. You may be able to measure it with a feeler gauge between the bearing surface and the clutch fingers if you can get in there through the clutch lever hole. Unfortunately the trans must come out to correct it. There is a tool for this when the trans is out or you can use a measuring caliper. There are procedures on the web for both.

[FF33rod]

Have you looked at something like this? Ram Clutches 78300 Hydraulic Clutch Pedal Adjustment Valve

Steve

[edwardb]

My only experience with an internal throwout bearing is with the Tilton 6000-Series HRB in my Daytona Coupe. As mentioned, setup is critical. Could be the source of the problem. If it is to spec, then going up one size with your master cylinder will give more movement to the throwout bearing. At a slight increase in effort as mentioned.

[Hoooper]

It looks like the factory MC bore is 3/4", but if the factory MC stroke is longer you could still have an issue with the Wilwood being 3/4". It looks like you arent the first to have this issue using the factory slave with the 3/4" MC, a previous poster says they adjusted the pedal position up and got it to release but think they still will need to eventually go to a bigger MC.

[Ted G]

I just looked on the Breeze website and I don't see anything like that.

Sorry, it is Mike Forte who has the spacers. Btw, I am a shorter driver (5' 7"), so they do help me quite a bit.

[toadster]

I just looked on the Breeze website and I don't see anything like that.


from Mike Forte https://fortesparts.com/product/fortes-custom-pedal-extension-kit/

I actually have two that I'm not using if you're interested