Building Engine 2-3 years ahead of time?

[Functional]

So working out everything for a Coupe build and it seems like I would be ordering everything needed to get going in 2 years time, possibly 3 if life happens along the way.

In the meantime I'm debating finding a pulled 351W and doing a slow build of the engine. Reading through a lot of build threads I think I'd like to have the engine in hand and in its final form before fitting out most of the parts in the engine bay. I know its not necessary but I believe it would help me really see the picture when deciding the home for my parts. Not only that but for a car I plan to maintain, what better way to learn about the heart than to build it yourself.

I've never built a car engine (plenty of motorcycles, outboards, etc.) and never stretched it out more than a few months. My question is, say I get this assembled a year or two ahead of ordering the car and then its 6mo to 1 yr before firing it up in the car for the first time. Aside from rotating the assembly maybe once a month what could be the downsides to having the engine sit this long unused?

[narly1]

If the engine is built with assembly lube, filled with oil and primed (by spinning the oil pump) as per good engine assembly practice I think you will be fine.

The only con I can think of is that you are potentially using up warranty time on the parts used. This is the main concern that builders using crate engines have.

As an aside, I built my own engine, with about the same amount of prior experience as you have. It was a very satisfying project and is all documented here on this forum.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?34272-Is-a-basically-stock-302-too-little-motor-Subsequent-build-ITS-ALIVE-SEE-VIDEO

Earl

[egchewy79]

No issues that I see other than taking up space, but if you have the room, go for it. Put some fogging oil in the spark holes, seal it up and rotate it by hand every now and again until you’re ready to fire it up.

[Jim1855]

My engine was built new in 2004 and rebuilt a few times after that due to having too much fun and 65k miles. It's waiting to go in the current car.

I think you've got a good plan if building yourself and/or with the assistance of local machine shops. The previous warranty comments make sense but may not apply to your build. Ask the component suppliers that you intend to use what their policies are.

There are advantages to a slow build, you'll have time to find and decide on the parts that you want to use. Perhaps during the process you'll change your plans and desires, taking time allows for this.

A completed motor, unlike new tires, can sit for a long time with limited issues. My motor hasn't run in 10 years, it will be just fine, I wouldn't even consider using 10-year-old tires.

Jim

[Functional]

I think you've got a good plan if building yourself and/or with the assistance of local machine shops. The previous warranty comments make sense but may not apply to your build. Ask the component suppliers that you intend to use what their policies are.

There are advantages to a slow build, you'll have time to find and decide on the parts that you want to use. Perhaps during the process you'll change your plans and desires, taking time allows for this.
Jim

Yes I'm 50/50 on warranty. I'll have to look it up but either way, if I assemble it when I put the Coupe order in to be ready by the time the coup comes thats still 2 years roughly before first fire. I'm not sure I'll be gaining enough warranty to make it worth holding off unless I built it once the coupe was ready to fire up.

The slow build to decide on parts was part of the reason I'm also considering it this way. Spreads cash out more instead of a dump over 6mo-1yr and I can take the build one assembly part at a time. I will likely outsource decking the block, boring, line bore, etc. but I do have access to and know how to use a nice bridgeport that used to do this work. If I can confidently figure out the fixture setup I may attempt to do it myself (likely not). Good part of living where I do is there is no shortage of good race shops.

At the moment I'm set on a 351w block but keep bouncing between going cheap and keeping stock bore/crank/rods and just upping the heads/intake or throwing in a mild stroker to make it 408...then I think well at that point why not just go to 427. I'm leaning heaviest to 408 since I believe the power distribution will be a nice mix between a worked 351 and a 417. Plenty of power but drawn out more over the RPM range rather than all at the top (351) or everything immediately (427). My goal in the end is 450ish HP, puts my power to weight ratio roughly equal to a modern 500GT. I'm not far from VIR so it may see an open track day just to stretch it legs but 99% of the time it will be for fun drives and weekend getaways with my Wife. I think 450 is enough to impress anyone in the car but not overdone where I cant let anyone else ever drive it if I decide to let them.

[ggunter]

A 408 will easily make 450hp and with a little more massaging will knock out 500 and still be streetable. If you plan on driving the car a lot don't put so much cam in it to where it doesn't like anything less than 2500 rpm, because you will spend a lot of time around 2000-2500 rpm.

[Functional]

Yea I figured I'd push a non stroked 351 a little hard hitting that mark where the 408 I wont need to worry about clearancing and its a fairly easily attainable goal. Truthfully I'd probably be happy landing anywhere from 400-500hp. Given the weight of these cars it will still feel fast.

As far as cams I agree, I dont want to have to fight it driving through town or cruising on a highway in that RPM range. I want a mild chop but I absolutely dont need it sound like a funny car. For reference the Coyote is just a bit too mild for my ears, a bit more aggression and I'd be very pleased, but performance/behavior goals will drive that decision more in the end.

[narly1]

Yes I'm 50/50 on warranty.....

Another option would be to do like me and build a run stand for your engine. That way you could fire it up periodically as you work towards finishing the car.

There's also something to be said about having open access to the engine before it's in the car, allowing you to more easily fix things like oil, coolant leaks etc. These were my main concerns as a novice engine builder...

Earl

[drewr]

I really enjoyed building my engine. There are plenty of books and YouTube videos detailing everything you'll need to know. It is not super complex, it just has to be done the right way. I ordered my coupe, found an engine, tore it down, had the block machined and then rebuilt it before my kit arrived. I paid $500 for a 1995 302 out of a F150 truck in a local junk yard. Now it's a 347 stroker. You won't really save money building your own, but it is a lot of fun. You do need to have the space for it. As long as it's lubed, you can store an engine indefinitely.

[lance corsi]

Beware of mud dobber wasps plugging bolt holes, oil passages, etc.

[Ford & Jeep Fan]

I traded a welding machine for a used 70 351Cleveland back in 1990 If I remember correctly. The next year bought a 78 Fairmont and I took the engine apart and had the block prepped (bored .030) and i bought good quality lower end parts for it.
Life things changed, and the Fairmont got sold. But NOT the engine. I has been in indoor storage and then my basement for the last 24 Years.
Back in 90 I changed jobs and had to move. so car money went to the move. About a year ago I started buying the heads and valvetrain too build this engine for a roadster.
I went to FFR last April and found I'd fit much better in a 33 Hot rod than in a roadster. since the weight of both are close to the same the performance should be as well.
When test fitting the cam I found that the machine shop (No longer open) had accidently got #4 cam bearing Just a bit crooked, so I had to borrow the tool to fix it. Once I fixed it i was able to do a mockup of the upper end.
The only real precaution I'd do if a engine was going to sit for a long time would to be to remove all rocker arms to let pressure of the valve springs.

[burchfieldb]

I second everything said here. I also had no prior experience and wanted to learn to be able to work on it later. It was a lot of fun and I was able to spread the build out over the year that it took. I kept engine lube on it and would rotate it frequently while building it and made sure to keep oil on all of the machined surfaces. I had a machine shop magna flux the block, hot tank it to clean it, hone the bores and deck it. Getting it magna fluxed first is a good idea, before you spend a lot of time and money building it. A good race shop will be able to do all of this and will be able to apply a nice cross hatch pattern to the bores. I ended up with a stroked 393 351 Cleveland. I also built my own run stand to be able to test it before putting it in the car and to be able run it while building my coupe. I run it once a month for about 30 mins. It's been about a 3 year process so far and it will likley be another year before it is in the car. Lots of online resources, engine building books, and you can call tech support for the parts and get help selecting components. I would do it again.

https://youtu.be/_bC8_Okxr2M?si=3Qqei9SJ2PFM7kZv

[Functional]

Yea this will be in a pretty well sealed up garage so mud daubers are low on my worry list but never out of mind.

Luckily I have a buddy whos been in the drag racing scene so finding a 351w motor apparently will not be a problem. I had planned to try washing/degreasing it as best I can at home but if needed I absolutely plan on getting it stripped and hot tanked.

Run stand may be in the cards but will evaluate if its needed once I start nearing the end of the build and how far away from ordering the Coupe would be.

From all your stories I'm looking forward to this part of the build. If nothing else it will keep me well focused to really save for the coupe. I have a set of assets that have appreciated 2-4x the value I paid for them I had planned to liquidate to help fund this but the less I have to sell off the better.