AN Flares in Nicopp tube

[BRRT]

I received my Amazon knockoff of the Eastwood flaring tool, along with the appropriate 37 degree turret and flaring dies, and I am experimenting with some Nicopp tube before I start brake and fuel tubes for real. Specifically I am working with 1/4" Nicopp for the connection between the brake fluid reservoir and the master cylinders. So, the question is in the process. I use "OP0" to set the end of the tube flush to the front of the die, then go to "OP2" to do the single flare. I will get a bulge in the tube right in front of the die, and the flare is oversize if I stroke the handle all the way to stop. Has anyone else had this issue?
Also, the turret is marked "3/16-1/4" at OP2. If I fully stroke the handle with 3/16" tube it WAY overflares the tube, all the way out to where 1/4" is.

How do I know when to stop flaring the tube? Is it just eyeballed for single flares? Is "OP0" then "OP2" the proper process? The instructions only talk about doing double flares.

Thanks for any advice.

[Alan_C]

I do not make AN flares with my Eastwood flare tool. However, I do not apply excess pressure when making my first pass on a double flare. I find if I apply moderate pressure, the shape of the flare is better, not done to excess.
Your results may differ, but it seems every time I need to make brake line flares, I have to relearn that lesson.
The only advice I can add, buy your NiCu line from a reputable vendor like Fedhill USA for example. Their NiCu brake line appears to be seamless with better wall thickness than the cheaper stuff you can buy locally or online. The quality of the Fedhill line is excellent as I have used it for two full builds now. The first build I used the Fedhill NiCu line on was from 2012 and that car has been on the road since 2014. If you have problems making a good flare with the Eastwood tool, look for two things, first did you chamfer the ends of the brake line and second did you apply a little lubricant on the end of the line to be flared. If you did both of these things. look closer at the brake line itself.


http://www.fedhillusa.com/

[chmhasy]

I was just doing a 3/8 -6AN 37degree flare last week to add a gas filter. I started by OP.0 with the clamp snug not tight to set the tube and die to the correct position. I then moved to to OP.1 and set the tube into the correct position. I then tighten down the clamp to hold the tube in place within the die. moved to position OP.2 and pressed.
Do QA check your flares for burrs as this can ruin the an fitting.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iP6cxO_8Foc

hope this helps

[cc2Arider]

I agree with chmhasy,

I tried to start with Opt 0, then learned that for single flares, you start with Opt 1 to get the proper seating depth :)

Craig C

[Tooth]

I felt like there was a definite learning curve with this. And, ss tube is a totally different animal and feel. At some point you just gotta trust it. I went back and forth between nicop and ss. Wanted ss for the look, but used nicop after making several versions of both. Not one leak in the system, and I thought I was going to have a sprinkler system. :eek:

[BRRT]

I agree with chmhasy,

I tried to start with Opt 0, then learned that for single flares, you start with Opt 1 to get the proper seating depth :)

Craig C

With the top clamp just snug on the forming die, and the punch set at OP1, do you swing the handle full stroke? Or just pick a subjective stopping point?
Then tighten down the clamp, rotate the punch block to OP2 and swing the handle to stop.

[BRRT]

I felt like there was a definite learning curve with this. And, ss tube is a totally different animal and feel. At some point you just gotta trust it. I went back and forth between nicop and ss. Wanted ss for the look, but used nicop after making several versions of both. Not one leak in the system, and I thought I was going to have a sprinkler system. :eek:

"Sprinkler System" :-)
not a good thing to have with brake lines....

[chmhasy]

With the top clamp just snug on the forming die, and the punch set at OP1, do you swing the handle full stroke? Or just pick a subjective stopping point?
Then tighten down the clamp, rotate the punch block to OP2 and swing the handle to stop.

OP.1 Full stroke as this puts the tube into the correct position then tighten down the clamp and move to OP.2 and again full stroke. take out your piece and examine it.
Try a sample piece first.

[BRRT]

OP.1 Full stroke as this puts the tube into the correct position then tighten down the clamp and move to OP.2 and again full stroke. take out your piece and examine it.
Try a sample piece first.

Thanks! and thanks for the video also

[chmhasy]

BTW don't over torque the an fittings
found this on the holley site its
Note: torque is in Inch Pound's
192742

[cc2Arider]

Hi Jeff,

My limited experience is to gauge the "effort" rather than the stroke "travel". It's kinda like using a press -- when you can feel the effort curve go up, you are right there (or maybe went too far)...

BTW, I'm still trying to get a feel for it :)

Craig C

[phils88gt]

AN flares are typically single flares with a backup tube nut. See AC43

"A double-flare is used on soft aluminum tubing 3/8 inch outside diameter and under, and a single-flare on all other tubing." AC43.131B "FAA Acceptable Methods, Techniques and Practices"