Aaron's So Far So Good Type 65 Coupe Build

[NotDrivingTrains]

Gen 3 Coupe Complete Kit ordered and delivered. The fun begins… so far so good…

What:
-Type 65 Coupe Complete Kit
-3-Link 3.55 8.8" rear end
-17" Halibrands
-Manual steering
-NRG Quick Release Steering Wheel / RT Turn Signal ( if I am so lucky, now from TJ)
-Heat/AC
-Blueprint 302 (306 ) EFI w/ TKX 2.87… .81
-Hydraulic clutch… was leaning cable, but the engine now comes with hydraulic TOB.
-To be determined…
-Seats… leaning Kirkey 55 Aluminum Drag Highbacks (not a slight 6'2"+)
-Side pipes… I am a sucker for the dual pipes, so hopefully from Georgie/Gas-N, but wouldn't mind a few dB quieter. Starting with FFR's
-Body/Paint… was thinking Jeff Miller, but read he might have retired, so…

Why:
This has definitely been the dream car for a while. Probably more importantly now a hobby and a challenge, kids growing up and moving out. There could be some curiosity regarding it's and my track abilities, but mainly being built for the street. And while the plan definitely isn't attempting to replicate the original, it definitely leans that way.

When:
Right, no rush. Given my marginal experience, the unit of measure will be years not months.

How:
It'll take a village.

Where:
-A run of the mill garage in a run of the mill subdivision in SoCal suburbia. 909/I.E. for those familiar. A few miles from Route 66. Winternationals in earshot given the right conditions.

To repeat a common sentiment, and genuinely felt, a big thank you to FFR and this forum. Probably would not have felt comfortable enough to proceed without these great resources. Thank you to all who share their expertise and aren't afraid to share the bumps in the road for the benefit of those who follow. I appreciate that this build won't move the needle on craftsmanship or innovation (yes, blue with white stripes), but maybe someone will benefit, friends and family are curious, and mainly taking some of the advice of others, journaling a build is a good way to keep organized and record the process for my own benefit.

Thanks!

Aaron

[Namrups]

Welcome to the family!

[NotDrivingTrains]

Thank you, Scott! I've followed your build with interest! Inspiring and impressive! Happy Thanksgiving!

[JimStone]

Congratulations and good luck! Subscribed to follow along

[burchfieldb]

Congrats on the build. Lots of unbelievable knowledge on this forum! I am a little over a year in and will likley be another year or more before driving. I would say done, but these things never are. There are no dumb questions, so don't be afraid to ask.

[rhk118]

Welcome Aaron! Looking forward to following along!

[NotDrivingTrains]

Delivery

The subtitle for this adventure should probably be patience. Waiting for the kit to be ready. Then maybe the delivery can't happen due to posted 'not a truck route' and '3 Tons Max' signs. Then the overhead crane won't work. The dolly has flat tires. Up on jacks but not far enough in to clear the garage door (and how to move when on jacks). Am I missing the message? No, because it all worked out. Just the way this will go. Challenges. Part of why we do this in the first place. And a big thanks to my buddy Ben, I might still be moving boxes into the garage if not for him.

193079

Inventory

My wife was the star of this phase. We counted every bolt. Figured out what 95% of everything was, process of elimination for the rest. Really just a few hours total.
Half of what was missing arrived via FedEx the day we were doing the inventory. At this point, just missing a speedometer sending unit. Well done, FFR.

"Unveiling" Brunch

My lovely, supportive wife threw together a little brunch. Lots of big smiles. Lots of "what have you done?!"s, and "you really think you can do this?!".

193080

Critical-path Items ahead of assembly

Went through and pulled aside the parts recommended for powder coating. Also hopefully sending the steering hub to TJ for adaptation as needed for the Russ Thompson turn signal.

Disassembly

Time to remove the nose and body and mark off all of the panels before disassembly. It really is striking everytime I go into the garage… won't look like this again for years.

193081

[JimStone]

Exciting times! And now the fun begins (or so I'm told - I'm hoping to order my coupe kit in a few months)

[NotDrivingTrains]

Definitely! Enjoying even the inventory and disassembly. And not feeling pressured to make progress everyday. Good luck with yours!

[NotDrivingTrains]

Manual Steering / Front end

Ready to install the first part. Wait, what bolt, what nut? So a big thank you to Scott P for his parts inventory posts.

I read the manual, but then I don't actually read it, evidently. Upgraded the tie rods thanks to PaulB and others on this forum, but missed the jam nuts from the factory kit. If only I could get the tie rods off the knuckle bracket. Off comes the knuckle. And now off to buy new hub nuts. One step forward... but, caught now versus later or too late, so thank you all again.

193847

Rear End

Certainly easier with helpers, but I guess a weakness is the challenge to figure out a way. A furniture dolly, 4x12s and an old tire ended up working well as a portable base for installing the brakes and upper link, and then sliding the rear end under the frame into position.

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[JimStone]

Keep up the good work!

[jgray]

Great pictures. I love seeing the use of leverage and ratcheting and the like! A roadster builder in my local FFR group told me something when I started my build back in March, that has stuck with me: “when you stop treating the manual as the bible, and go your own way, the build process becomes more fun”. I have found this to be true. I read the manual, forums, watched YouTubes a ton before the build, and I still do so now, but in the end I am doing my own thing. And having a tom of fun. Keep up the good work!

[rhk118]

Love it! Yes expect to get things together only to realize you forgot to add something, whether reading the manual or not. Have to agree with jgray above that I for sure read the manual, but find a lot of the build threads on here as well as rsnake's YouTube channel do a great job (if not better) of showing things the manual doesn't, or little details that help or improve upon the build. I figure early on I would do 3 hours of reading and research for every hour of build time having never done anything like this before. Further into the build I've become more confident and faster because less second-guessing myself if that makes sense. Great start with your build!

[NotDrivingTrains]

Thank you all for the thoughts and support! While generally sticking to the book, I am already seeing places to make some tweaks. Love this forum and community!

[NotDrivingTrains]

I have been researching and consternating over fuel lines. Stating the obvious, the opinions and advice on this and other forums run the spectrum. And there are many very good looking installs. In *my* final analysis, it comes down to form v. function. Or more is better v. efficiency (not overkill). After having spent so much on the kit and engine, my goal isn't to save a few bucks here. But, being a first build, I'm leaning toward keeping it simple and using the EFI kit that came with my BPE 302, including 3/8" pressure and return Earl's Vapor Guard rubber hoses. All should work together. All are the right size.

Certainly open to suggestions and advice, I would just appreciate insights as well. I have plenty to learn. Its valid some alternative has worked, but I would be mildly surprised to find out Holley ships something that won't perform acceptably over time.

[burchfieldb]

I have been researching and consternating over fuel lines. Stating the obvious, the opinions and advice on this and other forums run the spectrum. And there are many very good looking installs. In *my* final analysis, it comes down to form v. function. Or more is better v. efficiency (not overkill). After having spent so much on the kit and engine, my goal isn't to save a few bucks here. But, being a first build, I'm leaning toward keeping it simple and using the EFI kit that came with my BPE 302, including 3/8" pressure and return Earl's Vapor Guard rubber hoses. All should work together. All are the right size.

Certainly open to suggestions and advice, I would just appreciate insights as well. I have plenty to learn. Its valid some alternative has worked, but I would be mildly surprised to find out Holley ships something that won't perform acceptably over time.

I thougjt the same but decided to go with 3/8 stainless. It is one of those things that is easy to do now before all of the panels are on and the engine and trans are in the way. Then you only have to do it once and never think about it again.

[rhk118]

Certainly open to suggestions and advice, I would just appreciate insights as well. I have plenty to learn. Its valid some alternative has worked, but I would be mildly surprised to find out Holley ships something that won't perform acceptably over time.


I thougjt the same but decided to go with 3/8 stainless. It is one of those things that is easy to do now before all of the panels are on and the engine and trans are in the way. Then you only have to do it once and never think about it again.

Hi Aaron. I'm in the same camp as Brent. I ran stainless lines just like in edwardb's thread. My upgraded fuel pump came with high-end, non-braided 3/8 vapor guard rubber hoses like you. My thoughts are this: The fuel lines are running in the transmission tunnel. Heaven forbid driveshaft failure (hoop or not) or something happens and cuts one of them leading to fire. That was my only thought and I quickly moved on to installing stainless. Other options I entertained, and to some extent am still entertaining, was to put a steel shield over them to give some protection in the tunnel. Figured running SS lines was the least I should do for safety. There are also some good stainless braided lines out there as well so a bit of an intermediate between rubber and stainless but that lands in the exact price range of just running stainless.

I never worked on bending stainless in my life prior to this. Went to "the Depot" and got some 3/8 copper line and made templates, then ran my 2 stainless lines and it took me 1 day. Sure one of my lines is 1/2" too long in the engine bay and a couple bends out back are off slightly, but I think only I and everyone else on here building will notice that when looking at my car, and they will be hidden. The stainless lines aren't expensive, but the AN- fittings' prices can add up as the negative to running stainless. But I at least know that in the event of a driveshaft problem or accident maybe I'll have less risk of a fuel leak. I will also keep this car forever and won't have to replace them (other things yes). Hope that helps.

[NotDrivingTrains]

Both of your thoughts are very much appreciated. Not the first time I had myself convinced on a path and then upon more input and consideration...

Thanks!

[NotDrivingTrains]

Hearing Winternationals 10 miles distant adding a little distraction/motivation to the build this morning.

Slowly but surely making progress. An embarrassing list of hurdles, mostly self-inflicted... over-torqued banjo bolt, spinning nutserts (tool still attached), hours searching for parts but fortunately finding them before calling FFR... (incomplete list). But really enjoying it all.

[burchfieldb]

I found using an impact drill to insert the nustserts worked really well. If you have not noticed, you have to make sure the screw doesn't bottom out, if on the inside of a tube. Made this mistake and had to cut out the nutsert. Started using different length grade 8 bolts. If you are using this type of tool.

197243

[NotDrivingTrains]

Thank you for the ideas. That could very well have been one of the problems. In another case or two I drilled the hole a little too big and it didn't grab. Not always perfect angles for drilling, etc., along with skill/reps deficiencies. Thanks!

[NotDrivingTrains]

1 step forward…
… drivetrain installed… yay…
198815
198816

2 steps backward…
… there is a crack in the master cylinder (clutch)… did I cause this by over-tightening… I’d like to believe I don’t know my own strength but that is very unlikely…
198817
… and a lovely pool of hydraulic fluid below the bellhousing…
198818

[JimStone]

Congrats on the drivetrain installation!

Stinks about the master cylinder. Probably wasn't your fault - seems there are lots of complaints about the quality of those units.

[NotDrivingTrains]

Thank you, Jim! And it does help to know that maybe I'm not the only one. A messy repair but could be worse... which is what I am fearing with the bellhousing leak... troubleshooting is next.

[NotDrivingTrains]

So far so good... well, the point of that was an understanding that it wouldn't go seamlessly from start to finish... well, the drivetrain is coming back out, transmission coming off, throw-out bearing going back to McLeod for repair/replacement. Has the feel of losing months on the build, at least 1, and the purchase of an engine stand and transmission jack that wasn't in the initial plan. And no relief from FFR on the faulty master cylinder. I know we are spending a lot on these projects, but it definitely doesn't feel at the moment I am getting my money's worth.

[edwardb]

So far so good... well, the point of that was an understanding that it wouldn't go seamlessly from start to finish... well, the drivetrain is coming back out, transmission coming off, throw-out bearing going back to McLeod for repair/replacement. Has the feel of losing months on the build, at least 1, and the purchase of an engine stand and transmission jack that wasn't in the initial plan. And no relief from FFR on the faulty master cylinder. I know we are spending a lot on these projects, but it definitely doesn't feel at the moment I am getting my money's worth.

Sorry to hear you feel that way. Hang in there. Plenty of ups and downs with these builds. But the final product is worth it. McLeod hydraulic throwout bearings unfortunately don't have a great reputation. I have a Tilton in my Coupe and it's been perfect for 4+ driving seasons. Others also report a similar good experience with Tilton. I would use one again without hesitation. But many on here aren't fans of hydraulic throwout bearings. As for the MC crack, that's a classic overtighten crack. It's not hard to do. That's why I switch the right angle fittings to straight fittings and stop when tight. Avoiding that last extra push to get the right angle oriented that way you want and then it happens. I know. I've done it too.

[NotDrivingTrains]

Thank you, Paul. Agreed, not excited about trying another McLeod. I will be looking for an alternative clutch system. Onward and upward.

[lewma]

McLeod hydraulic throwout bearings unfortunately don't have a great reputation.

Unfortunately I have to agree here. Mine failed the first time I ran up the engine. Didn't even drive the car but the next morning I had a pool of clutch fluid on the garage floor. I was told that these things are bullet proof and very rarely fail if installed correctly ( it was installed from the factory ). McLeod replaced the bearing without question but did not give any indication of what actually failed. The new one has not shown any issues in the couple of gokart runs that I've done. Fingers crossed.

[NotDrivingTrains]

Thank you, good to know. At least I don't have to listen to the 'this never happens' line. And sorry it happened to you as well.

[burchfieldb]

You may want to use Forte's external hydraulic clutch to avoid this.

https://fortesparts.com/product/fortes-tko-600-hydraulic-clutch-kit/

[NotDrivingTrains]

Thank you Brent. That will probably be Plan C... not quite ready to give up on hydraulics, just going with an upgraded version. If it comes to that at least I'll have had the practice of tearing it down and putting it back together :p

[lewma]

I know that you can replace the throwout bearing while the whole transmission / engine is still installed in the coupe chassis. All you need to do is remove the driveshaft then disconnect and slide back the transmission. Its very tight but can be done. Unfortunately I have first hand experience with this :(

[burchfieldb]

Thank you Brent. That will probably be Plan C... not quite ready to give up on hydraulics, just going with an upgraded version. If it comes to that at least I'll have had the practice of tearing it down and putting it back together :p

This is still hydraulic, it uses and external hydraulic slave cylinder.

[NotDrivingTrains]

I know that you can replace the throwout bearing while the whole transmission / engine is still installed in the coupe chassis. All you need to do is remove the driveshaft then disconnect and slide back the transmission. Its very tight but can be done. Unfortunately I have first hand experience with this :(

Good to hear, thank you. I had read this being done. Having not gotten far with any engine plumbing, if I struggle to make it work, it could be worse to take it all back out, but I will give it a shot.

[NotDrivingTrains]

I should have posted sooner that BluePrint Engines came through. No surprise, they made things right with the throw-out bearing.

Now, on to electrical... the thread below has been helpful, not exactly my setup so there are differences, but once again it can't be over-stated how helpful this forum is.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?26894-Blueprint-with-EFI-and-Ron-Francis-wiring-harness

[JimStone]

Good luck with electrical. That's the part I'm most nervous about.

[NotDrivingTrains]

Thank you. And yes, going as expected for a novice. Mostly making sense, but a fair amount of head-scratching and research. For instance, I think the coil and distributor are supposed to be connected with pre-wired pigtails, but the coil was installed in a way to trap the wires so the two cannot reach... or was that done specifically so I wouldn't mistakenly connect the two...

[NotDrivingTrains]

A brief update... slow going, not always easy to find the time, but making some progress.

For better or worse, lately focused on the steps toward a first start, figuring better to have less on the car should I have to fix plumbing blunders etc.

Pre-lube run, check! Not only did I not have a dozen various shorts, but that bit of wiring seemed to be done correctly (don't have to read between the lines to catch the level of confidence I'm working with). However, not without something; ignition switch to on, dash gauge power, EFI noises, then the moment of truth, ignition... nothing. First thought maybe 12.5v was a little low, so charged up the battery, but no difference. Took a shot at the clutch cutoff switch, just jumpered the ignition switch wires together, and... smiles so big they hurt!

So, with the energy that win provided, added coolant, reinstalled spark plugs, added some 91, and ... the good news, ignition on, fuel pump fires for a few seconds, then the next moment of truth... engine turns over, but no dice. Could be more than one problem, but at a minimum only getting 5-15 psi on the fuel pressure gauge, and it doesn't hold after switched off.

As usual, lots of good ideas on the forum, so will be working through what I've found. Reversed polarity on pump (would that result in any pressure at all?), leaks on the hardlines/fittings (slight smell of fuel, but could just be that I spilled a little and there will always be a little fuel smell, and haven't found any evidence of fuel leaking), and double check supply/return lines aren't reversed.

[NotDrivingTrains]

Alright, this is going to expose my level of experience and ability, but possibly entertaining.

The no-start problem: ‘…added some 91…’ . Just didn’t have enough fuel in the tank I guess. Or maybe I have the fuel pickup incorrectly installed. Seems if the fuel gauge is reading ¼ or a touch under, no start.

Although sometimes it isn’t just one thing of course. Various successful starts, working through coolant leaks, heater leaks, burning wires (still no electrical shorts, just insulation fortunately). Then, no start again. After adding 4 gallons, still no go. Pressure well below 60 psi, but not zero. A bit of reading on the Holley forums, item 6 of 20 (or whatever) on a troubleshooting guide was if the Sniper isn’t receiving RPM signals from the engine, fuel pump won’t be turned on when cranking (but does turn on for priming). But why now? Not 100% sure, but the tach signal wire connection was loose. Securing it did the trick (so far…).

Next, couldn’t get the idle below 1000. In fact, as the engine warmed up, the revs increased if anything. Well, I had the accelerator cable just a touch too tight. Just a hair, but enough. Needing to find new wall space for my head banging.

But… ready for a go-kart attempt… success.
https://1drv.ms/v/s!AoFVPAFNGy0diMAaIn_Nri0KfaoFRQ?e=EgFJKz

And yes, I did nearly stall it. Had visions of ending up in a neighbor’s pool and wasn’t terribly confident with the braking. A thank you to my wife for filming and expressing both her support and level of confidence at the same time!

[PNWTim]

Great video, always a milestone!

[lewma]

Congrats on the go-kart !

[JimStone]

Wahoo!!! Congratulations

Nice neighborhood. Pretty with the mountains in the background

[burchfieldb]

That is awesome to see, never gets old!

[NotDrivingTrains]

Time for more research. Gas-N headers/sidepipe alignment after body-on. Not good. DS too much clearance at footbox, PS almost no clearance. Loosened all mounting bolts. Not much gain, with hoist and ratchet straps attempting to pull transmission tail over to PS. Had installed transmission (TKX on BPE306) mounting plate per FFR manual... hadn't paid attention to the asymmetric mounting plate slots... flipping it over helped but not enough. I wouldn't be shocked if I have something else wrong. If it was possible to put the motor in backwards I probably would have managed to do it. Double-checked engine mounts, etc. Looks like wedges for the PS and a little more body cut-out work on the DS.
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Sorry, still also need to figure out how to attach pictures properly, rocket science for me evidently.

[NotDrivingTrains]

Long post… California notoriously has an involved and convoluted registration process for kit cars. One reason I didn’t pull the trigger 15+ years ago, but ultimately manageable. However, it was a saga…

Theoretical (ha!) order of events:
1. DMV to open a registration application
2. CHP Inspection / VIN assignment
3. DMV for SPCNS Number Application
4. SPCNS (Kit car / emissions exemption) inspection with State Bureau of Automotive Repair Referee
5. Brake and Light Inspection
6. DMV to finalize, obtain registration and plates.

Only 3 trips to the DMV, how bad could this be? Yes, worse than all other states. But no one should be surprised CA makes it a process.

7/10/2025 - In talking about this process with buds, one who had a restored 64 Austin-Healey, another with a new C8, but that he picked up from the factory in Tennessee, I was informed that getting a CHP inspection appointment could take months. Yikes! So even though I didn’t have doors, mirrors, windshield, hatch or headlights yet, decided to get the registration process started.

Gave the DMV a shot (Keeping track… DMV Visit #1). No appointment. Got there at 8, already a healthy line, but the first part of the line goes quick with all of the windows opening at one time. Roughly 30 minutes from arrival to window. Jim at first seemed to understand the process (like maybe he’d done one 3 years ago). Oops… there I go assuming already. I wasn’t prepared to parse what sales taxes I’d already paid. Engine/trans yes, kit no. So that complicated calculation of fees. Plus, I mentioned the emissions exemption part at some point, and that was when I got the deer-in-headlights response. So, lead with that. “I’m building a car with the intent to have it classified as a Make of ‘SPCNS’ (Specially Constructed vehicle), no year, and will also need to complete the emissions/smog-exemption process as outlined in SB100.” I think it helped that I had the CHP handout regarding SB100. Ultimately I think he either googled it or asked a supervisor. But for some reason, he couldn’t figure out how to issue the balance of the paperwork. Back home to re-group (was in the DMV building for 58 minutes).

Thanks to hitman912, I was able to determine I needed to ask for Form Reg 124 (Vin assignment). This time I did a DMV Website “Get In Line” feature, which eliminates the need to stand in line at least. 15th in line. Enough time to get there and find parking (DMV Visit #2). Of course no chance of getting the same person. Daniel seemed confused why Jim didn’t know I needed Reg 124. Still struggled. Eventually determined they either needed to enter in “0” for the model year, or “1965 Replica”. It sounded like adding “Replica” made the difference. I was told to have a seat while they prepared the temporary operating permit.

Solid 30 minutes later I’m called up for the permit, handed the bundle of papers over the wall while they were helping someone else. Didn’t realize they hadn’t given me Reg 124 until I got home… Daniel!?!
Frustrating, but maybe just another hour at the DMV sometime before the CHP inspection. They did, however, give me a temporary operating permit valid through September, which seemed generous, but maybe for a reason I’d find out later.

Call for the CHP Inspection (which is what the website says). “No, you need to email us”, and they gave the list of items needed. I get an email early the next morning with an appointment… less than 4 weeks away, coincidentally for the morning of a big 20th anniversary party for my company… its gonna be a day…. Oh, and I’m not done building yet!!! Fortunately, quick and easy stuff, like doors, mirrors and the windshield (ouch).

Over the next few weeks, I’m able to get the doors on (far from perfect), mirrors installed, windshield set (somewhat nerve-racking 3 hours, with assist from my wife), headlights installed/aligned. Hatch glass set… Counting blessings… the coolest July in parts of So Cal since the 60’s. And with the uneasy economy, business was light, so I actually had the time to work on it.

7/24/2025 – going to DMV tomorrow with my daughter (to get the missing VIN form). She needs the enhanced/Real ID, and has an appointment the next day. I’ll just try the “Get in line” feature that worked well before…

7/25/2025 – 8 am, jump on the DMV website to “Get in line”… not available for my field office… closed until 8/18. What?!?! Fun fact… the first day the field office was closed… today (maybe why they had given me the long TOP). What about my daughter’s appointment?! I’d either forgotten or never been told that appointment was made for the field office in the next town over. I live in a cliché part of So Cal… one suburban town blends into the next with no clear boundary. Foul mood. “Get in line” doesn’t open up until after my daughters appointment. Fouler mood. We get there, of course the line is 100 deep. Getting better. I decide to go with her in the appointment line. At check in, she gets a ticket and I ask if they can just give me Reg 124. “Yes… oh wait, no we need to verify paperwork… do you need a window ticket?”… sorry 100+ people I just cut in front of… not proud of that, but when I did finally get to a window, this person seemed to get it and I had the form within a few minutes. Again, in and out in less than an hour. I’d count my blessings, except this was the 3rd trip (#3) for what should have been just one.

8/5/2025 – I recruit buddy Ron to follow me the 8 miles to the CHP office. Hadn’t driven a round trip more than 5 miles, maybe just 4, with not every trip resulting in something leaking or loose. Arrived at 7:40. Officer came out promptly at 8, friendly enough but all business. Asked for my paperwork, then asked to have me drive it to an inspection bay in the back. I hadn’t heard this was an thing. I was hoping they wouldn’t hear it, as I’m not sure it meets the 95 dBs at 4000 rpm state law requirement. I even have to shut it off part way through just to hear his instructions! But, he doesn’t seem bothered. Sends me to the lobby… umm, I might need to explain a few things, like the horn is on the end of the turn signal stalk, and for some reason the high beams need to be pushed 2 times to be turned off. So I get to stew about it for 90 minutes. But, all good. Not sure what he inspected, but he spent a good portion of that time making the VIN plate and drilling/riveting it into the tube below the dash.

I guess the state considers this process to be a “choose your own adventure”. Others have had the VIN be the FFR chassis ID. Others have had to put the vin plate on themselves. Some have had nothing really inspected. Here they assigned a new VIN, installed it themselves, and sent me on my way.

8/6/2025 – Off again to the DMV, this time to initiate the SPNCS process. Back online to get a “Get In Line” ticket, then off to the DMV, next town over still (#4). I cut it too close, and took a wrong turn… my ticket was called as I was pulling into the parking lot… got to the window 3 minutes later… got in in line behind the person who was now there… sweet talked my way to be next and not have to start over… and that was the end of things going well on this trip. They again made it clear they understood the process. “Go have a seat, we need to prepare the paperwork”. What paperwork?! It’s a phone call to the state to reserve one of the 500 exemptions they issue per year. No paper work! 30 minutes or so later, they come back, with a slight reduction in what I should have paid before for some reason, a 1 day operating pass (which I don’t need… still good thru September), and no SPCNS#! I pleaded that all I needed at this point was the SPCNS#, but they insisted that they had called Sacramento and been told that I needed to do the Brake and Light inspection first. No where does it say this, and that had not been the experience shared by other builders. I kind of lost my composure at this point. Asked for the manager. She came over in a huff, and said I could call Sacramento and have them tell her what she needs to do, and stormed off. Call Sacramento… who, what number? Gavin?? POed to say the least. I tried calling the state DMV number but they weren’t the right people to issue the number, even if it could be given to me over the phone.

CONTINUED BELOW...

[NotDrivingTrains]

Registration Saga, continued...

8/7/2025 - Threw in the towel, went to a repair shop for the Vehicle Safety Systems Inspection Certificate (Brake and Light). Tech came back in and asked me what it was, we walked back out, and he just stared, not saying anything. I suggested I could drive it around back to their shop, and he said that sounded good.

Roughly an hour, all done. $290. I asked if he adjusted anything and he said it all looked pretty good. Did I get my money’s worth?

Back home to arrange a “Get in Line” ticket for another non-appointment visit to the DMV. 47th in line (and that’s just for registrations). Got down there around 11 (#5). To a window around 11:15. Ready to give my opening arguments to the jury. Handed over paperwork, this time now with Brake and Light Cert. Turns out it was the window next to the failed window from yesterday, she remembered me (uh-oh) and said to have a seat because they now had to call Sacramento. Half-hour later, called back up, hand-written SPCNS Sequence # on the DMV registration progress sheet, told I can now contact BAR. Not really paperwork. Oh well.

Back home, call the number for BAR, short hold, have an appointment set for 8/19 7:10am. This will be a phone call to go over all of the various paperwork. Then they will schedule the in-person inspection.
Meanwhile, I receive email correspondence with program admin… asks for all paperwork in advance, including SPCNS Certificate… when I respond that I don’t have that, they suggest it could take a month, and that can’t have the appointment without. Shocking, no mail from the DMV prior to the appointment, so it is cancelled, now waiting.

Had suspicions that the engine wasn’t delivered from the factory with the proper CA-required PCV. Supported by moderately helpful info from the State/BAR, more or less confirmed no-go. It has the vacuum connection from the P/S valve cover to the base of the throttle body, but just a breather cap on the oil filler hole. Tried a Drake type, but needed a post. Bought the post, but because my valve covers have ridges, the post wouldn’t fit snug (nor even could be secured over the hole). After more searching on Summit/Speedway, found the same style oil cap as the OEM, but without the breather and with a hose connector.
Also ordered a hose fitting adapter for the air cleaner housing. The adapter supports 5/8” or ¾” ID tubing, and the oil cap barb is like 5/16… there doesn’t seem to be a single adapter to go between those two sizes, so I had to buy a 5/8” to 3/8” and snug up the 3/8” side as best I could, hopefully enough. A little painful and less than perfect. I guess that is the subtitle of my build. Ahh, California…

Still waiting for a letter…

9/10/2025 - Went ahead and emailed all other documents to BAR program assistant.

9/11/2025 - And if I’d only waited one day, Certificate of Sequence received in the mail today! #2025085… appears they issue nowhere near the annual allotment. Now just need to schedule appointment with BAR referee.

9/15/2025 – received appointment date(s)… 9/24/2025, 8 am.

9/24/2025 – Friendly BAR referee Roc, talked cars, engines, and briefly reviewed the documentation. Said I should have filled out the explanation section in Statement of Construction (I thought the invoices for chassis and engine were all that should matter), but he would submit as-is. Didn’t anticipate any problems, and he should hear back from the state within 10 days, and then can schedule the in-person inspection, which is primarily just for them to place the smog-exempt sticker on the frame.

9/30/2025 – Roc called… “they” couldn’t open some of the files, password protected… Ummm, no, it’s the State’s form that has password protection for editing the form… good grief. Re-sent.

10/4/2025 – Roc called… needed to sign 2 forms plus add VIN to application for registration (because I started that form before they had assigned it!)… good grief. Re-sent (remember the phone appointment, where they go over to make sure all is in order?)

10/9/2025 – emailed Roc to check on status… 1 hr before already scheduled (hopeful) DMV appointment (because my temporary operating permit has now expired). No word, so canceled the DMV appointment for that day. 19 minutes later, email from Roc that I am authorized to proceed! I call the BAR Referee appointment line, short hold, “the next available appointment is Friday, October 10th at 7:45 am”. The way he said it, it felt weeks away. “You mean, tomorrow morning?” “Oh, yeah, it is”. PANIC! I just canceled the DMV appointment. AND, just the evening prior, I had drilled out the transmission cover panel to better inspect a transmission fluid leak, and removed the wheels to continue with panel installs. AND was on fumes the last time I drove it. Gonna be a long night. But first, another “Get in Line” ticket… 3rd in line! Scramble time… notified a block away to make my way to the window… fortunately found parking, hurried to the window… look of disapproval for being late (#6)… but interesting that the greeting starting with “Hi, I’m building a car”… consistently snaps them out of the routine. Teresa was helpful and efficient… all done before my original appointment time. Blood pressure slowly receding.

10/10/2025 – The BAR Referee has locations around the state, often at local trade schools/community colleges, and fortunately there is one just a couple miles away. Had to wait for a late arriving appointment before me, but was out 30 minutes after my appointment time anyway. David was helpful, seemed to really just check the PCV, and that was just a quick visual confirmation. Affixed the exempt sticker to the firewall. Ready for actual vehicle registration with the DMV. Awaiting personalized plate before I go, hoping to do all with one last visit.

10/28/2025 – No plates yet, worried (for no good reason?) that there could still be hurdles, so proceed without. Most uneventful trip to the DMV (#7), and the culminating one. Registered! Still need to get the personalized plate and have it assigned, maybe AAA can do all of that. But done… a couple weeks shy of 4 months! I could have done it a little sooner, but definitely 2-3 months. Claudia was helpful and it all went quickly, less than 20 minutes.

10/30/2025 -- … and, right on cue … letter from DMV that my plates are available arrived today… and not at AAA like I thought, but at the same DMV office I was at on Monday… which means my plates were there when I got my “temporary”. But, got a quick “get in line” ticket, and less than an hour later (#8), got my permanents! Officially done with the CA registration process…

11/15/2025 – Sitting down to memorialize the registration process (this post), when what do I receive in the mail??? A letter from the DMV stating that my registration is incomplete… lacking SMOG certification! Oh. My. God. But all I can do is laugh. I call the DMV (#8.5) a few days later just to reduce the potential snippiness, and am re-assured that their system shows my registration is ‘exempt for SMOG as of 10/10/2025. Nothing more for you to do’. 100 bucks this isn’t the end of it. But, probably won’t know until next year.

Takeaways… go in to the DMV knowing the process like it’s the final exam. And express courteous confidence, and don’t assume the DMV agents understand the process at all, even if they seem to. Really no reason why it should have taken more than 3 trips to the DMV. Still probably hard to keep it much under 2 months, but it needn’t take 4. And for the reputation the DMV has, I will say each trip was basically 1 hour, typically much less, and no need to wait weeks for an appointment, so no complaints there. They made a couple mistakes that led to extra trips, but I could have caught those if I’d been more prepared and didn’t assume they knew what they were doing. And while I don’t think I needed the Brake/Light inspection when they put their foot down, no reason why I couldn't have had that done already.

SoFarSo (my license plate) Good. Thinking it could have been GudGref.

[NotDrivingTrains]

Shout out to Factory Five. Two-plus years ago I possibly missed that I did not receive the nose locator bolts and did not get back to FFR within the reasonable timeline for POL. I wasn't sure what these were supposed to look like, and I'm sure I could have found them on a build site but there also seemed to be different versions and custom versions. Or just as likely I received them and had since misplaced them. Regardless, I called to order replacements and was told the computers were down so they would call me back for my credit card info. That didn't happen (or I missed the call) and I proceeded to try some McMaster-Carr headless shoulder screw hack, which is kind of working, but un(re)solicited I received 2 nose locator bolts in the mail!