CV2065 MKIV Roadster Build Thread #2 - Visors - Heat Shields - Saggy Pipe

[cv2065]

I've had my kit for almost 2 weeks now and was debating about a build thread and was going to take to Instagram instead, but as much as I've dug into other build threads over the years for ideas and help, thought I'd give some more back as well, so here we go again!

I did sell my last Roadster in May. Hated to see it go, but the money was right and the gentleman I sold it to was so happy to have it, and that made it really satisfying. Also, with the funds I can do a few things with this build that I wasn't able to do last time around due to a few financial restraints, even though everything has gotten so much more expensive!

So...ordered the complete kit again with all of the bells and whistles and there will be many custom items on this build. Here's a few of them:


Wilwood Brakes - Front and Rear (Yay!)
Intatrim Diamond Stitch Custom Upholstery
Custom Speedhut Gauges w/Roush Theme
1.75" Rollbar (Breeze)
Gas N Pipes/Headers (Big and Loud version)
Carbon Fiber Dash
BC Forged KL17 Wheels


Top it off with a Roush 427R (nice big cam), TKX 5 speed, IRS and as with my last build, the car will be all blacked out. Haven't decided on the color yet. All of the trimmings from Breeze, hydraulic and mechanicals from Mr. Forte, exterior additions from Mike Everson and turn signal/pedal and drop trunk mods.

Thought I'd move a little faster on this one since I've been down the road before, but it's amazing how much one forgets, so we'll see. Looking forward to this new build and starting with a picture of my last before sale.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/87bf8137-c297-4449-ac47-57a9087f427b.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/87bf8137-c297-4449-ac47-57a9087f427b.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

BUILD #2 INDEX:
https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/b7836873-87d7-4628-96dc-625085e54e21.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/b7836873-87d7-4628-96dc-625085e54e21.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)
https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/36797357-0317-44cd-834d-5405662d98db.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/36797357-0317-44cd-834d-5405662d98db.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)
https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/3a16a5b9-726c-4a09-9c6c-75fb04d618a5.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/3a16a5b9-726c-4a09-9c6c-75fb04d618a5.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)

[buttsjim]

This will be good--I'm looking forward to following your thread!

[MSumners]

Followed your thread the first time around researching my roadster, great to see you doing another one

[Blitzboy54]

Right on, I look forward to following along again. I learned a lot from the first one and would love another bite at the apple. Lots of things I would do differently the second time.

2" roll bars are good start

[Ted G]

Congrats again!!!

[BadAsp427]

Way to go Chad.... Can't wait to see what you come up with this time... I've seen the new gauges and wheels,,,, this is going to be an awesome beast...

[zarnold]

Subed! Looking forward to the build!!

[460.465USMC]

Congrats, Chad. I totally understand the fun and satisfaction from the build experience, and the desire to do it again. Glad you get the opportunity for Part Deux. Did you consider any other F5 kits for your second build (i.e. Coupe, truck, etc.)?

[cv2065]

Congrats, Chad. I totally understand the fun and satisfaction from the build experience, and the desire to do it again. Glad you get the opportunity for Part Deux. Did you consider any other F5 kits for your second build (i.e. Coupe, truck, etc.)?

Hey Chris. I did take a look at a lot of other kits, including some from Superlite, Ultima, and the FFR 65 Coupe. I came back to the Roadster as there was some unfinished business I wanted to do with the car that I didn't do the first time around.

[cv2065]

I've been making progress on the build, although not as quickly as I would have liked, but progress none the less. Starting at the beginning with the delivery using Stewart. My kit was completed on 9/30, but not picked up until about 5 weeks later and delivered on 11/6. Not terrible, but I think I missed the first run down to Florida. Delivery was at night and spot on as usual. My driver was great and managed to get through my neighborhood with ease, which is no easy task. The neighbors remembered the giant Stewart truck coming in the first time about 5 years ago and knew where he was going. I'm always amazed at how much larger that Stewart FFR truck is to a 'typical' 18 wheeler.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/78d01e8b-01b9-45b6-855e-3fb54bc3c7af.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/78d01e8b-01b9-45b6-855e-3fb54bc3c7af.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

Loaded up on my dolly and got everything stuffed into the garage. Body buck was almost built and began the inventory. Amazingly enough, I only had about 10 items on the POL list. Two of which were my wiper system and radiator, which came only 2 days after the kit arrived. The only other major item was the wiring harness. Apparently, Russ Francis is having issues with labor, so they are limited on the harnesses they can produce. I waited about 4 weeks to get one sent out but had to keep calling until I was able to secure one from a recent delivery. Squeaky wheel!! I'm still waiting on my Certificate of Origin. Apparently, it can't be sent until all POL items have been shipped and I have one more item to get, which are the assembled louvers. I don't remember that to be the case from the first build?

https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/f212b419-9ab7-4048-bb77-fb22c13c6953.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/f212b419-9ab7-4048-bb77-fb22c13c6953.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

[cv2065]

Getting the body on the buck was interesting to say the least. My son is off at college so the wife had to serve double duty. I tell her that it's the same as last time, just minus one person. She says, hold on a second I have to get some gloves. Comes out with oven mitts. Whatever works. We get the body parallel with the buck and she suddenly has a cramp and we almost dump it in the driveway. Lesson learned to always have a third if you are lifting by hand. :p

Makeshift work bench, shop vac and we're ready to start drilling. I like to get all of my panels fitted and drilled at one time as they all go to the powder coaters. Don't forget your #30 drill bits! I bought two packs of these and it got me through all of my drilling as they are double ended. They don't walk either, so saves times having to pin each hole.

https://www.amazon.com/MAX-CRAFT-Cobalt-Double-0-1285-Iron-10Pcs/dp/B07JV9674H/ref=sr_1_5?crid=2NQ5PR2ZH37IA&keywords=cobalt%2B%2330%2Bdrill%2Bbits%2BdE30&qid=1702965666&sprefix=cobalt%2B30%2Bdrill%2Bbits%2Bde30%2Caps%2C 94&sr=8-5&th=1


https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/IMG_8759.JPG?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/IMG_8759.JPG?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)


I started with the trunk area first since it's the easiest to fit. After I had drilled everything, decided to do the drop trunk mod. I ordered it from TJ at Mountain Metal Works. Everything was top notch and went together nicely. I had a few extra holes due to not deciding until the last minute, but no biggie.



https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/IMG_8799.JPG?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/IMG_8808.JPG?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

I ordered the thicker firewall from FFMetals. I had it in my last build and liked the quality. I did the same for the tunnel cover. Fitting the panels was uneventful with all of the drilling, but I was reminded again that outside of light trimming for a weld or two, DON'T CUT THE PANELS!!! I 'trimmed' the inside panel of the driver's side footbox and ended up cutting it too short where it met inside the cockpit area. Come to realize that it didn't need to be trimmed at all. I just needed to massage the fitment. I ordered another panel from FFR but that set me back a few days and $30. Don't do that. A few pics from the work.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/IMG_8773.JPG?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/IMG_8773.JPG?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/IMG_8811.JPG?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/IMG_8811.JPG?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/IMG_8857.JPG?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/IMG_8857.JPG?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

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[cv2065]

I removed all of the panels after fitment and drilling, and they are now all at the powder coaters. We're going a gloss black this time and some have already come back. I should have all of them before Christmas, but the guy I used last time is out of business, so I'm pretty sure that I won't be getting the all in, $500 'friends and family' discount.:(

The IRS was next and I propped it up on my wife's school dolly, degreased, taped up and painted with a Rustoleum Oil based high gloss. The unit is new from FFR, so didn't take much to prepare. Although I did paint the coupler with POR15. Don't forget to protect your threaded holes! I also drilled out the front mounting holes with a 5/8" bit. I bought a brand new bit for this as well as cutting oil. My cordless drill couldn't handle the torque so switch to my corded one. Very slow and back and forth as I had flashes of my wrist getting ripped off the last time because I just wanted to get it done. VERY easy to do if you take it slow and have the right tools, once you get past the first indented area of the ear.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/IMG_8812.JPG?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/IMG_8812.JPG?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

Time for installation! My son was back from school, so now I have 3 helpers. I think things went worse than when I was alone like last time, which was literally a 25-minute process. I duplicated as before by using my trans jack to get the pumpkin up and over the frame support, then I planned to switch over to my floor jack. My son was guiding and somehow got the IRS wedged in the frame. :rolleyes:. I still don't know how that happened but took some time to get it worked out. The wife, aka 'The Foreman' was shouting out commands and reminding me that she was running out of time and needed to go exercise. if I end up doing another one down the road, I'll fly solo again. In the end, all looks great and snugged down to 100 ft/lbs on all 4 corners.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/IMG_8815.JPG?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/IMG_8815.JPG?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/IMG_8816.JPG?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/IMG_8816.JPG?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

There is some confusion in the manual in regard to torque values where it states 100 ft/lbs in one area and 129 ft/lbs on another table. Confirming with FFR, they recommend 100 ft/lbs (dry - no lube) on all 4 corners. The M14-2.0 bolts on the rear are going into aluminum, so I feel more comfortable with the 100 ft/lbs as well. I also have seen on other posts that some, including myself, experience a 1/32" gap on the right side rear mount. I also inquired with FFR, and they said "That is considered normal for our install, and nothing needs to be done regarding it. You can proceed with the build." Micheal Everson said the same in another thread. I don't recall this on my last build but maybe I wasn't looking close enough. I went as is per recommendation. Here's a pic:

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/IMG_8824.JPG?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/IMG_8824.JPG?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

Once satisfied with witness marks on all bolts, I added the vent tube. I used the original Ford part versus the provided tube. I just had to cut it down a bit. As an FYI, the aluminum nipple does not come with the FFR supplied IRS, so you'll have to order one. These two parts are Ford IRS Vent Hose Assembly (FR3Z-4A058-A and 2L1Z4022BA).

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/IMG_8818.JPG?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/IMG_8818.JPG?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

[cv2065]

It was time for the really fun part of drilling out large holes and cutting off the ears of a perfectly good knuckle! I prepped by painting the back of each spindle with my Rustoleum high gloss. Again, turned out great. I put paper towels in the mounting holes to avoid getting paint on the threads. I was going to paint the knuckles, but they were brand new and looked fine, so skipped that.

Started with the two knuckles. Wedged them in my vice and again, took the hole slow and easy with the new 5/8" bit and cutting oil. Soft vice guards really help out here. The hole cut surprisingly easy and if you get off the mark a little and the hole isn't completely centered, no worries as the connecting hardware takes up for any slop. One tip. When you are cutting this hole or lopping off the knuckle ears, tape up your other knuckle mounts so metal does not get into the gasket areas. If it does, you can use a q-tip and water to clean out, but it will save some time.

Lopped off the ears with my Sawzall from Harbor Freight. This would be its last job as the plastic keeper for the blade removal broke off. Luckily, it had finished its tour of duty. The manual doesn't recommend a 14tpi blade, but I found that size to be perfect. I did this on my portable workbench to keep the vibration down.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/IMG_8789.JPG?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/IMG_8789.JPG?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

Regarding the spindles, once again I used my local machine shop to knock out the old studs and press in the new ones. I'd rather do that than use the hammer and drill, yada yada. Last time he charged me $20 and had them done in a half hour. This time I was charged double and it took 4 days. Times have changed!!!

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/IMG_8842.JPG?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/IMG_8842.JPG?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

Installed on the knuckle and cranked down to 98 ft/lbs. I couldn't get that entire thing into my vice, so that was one of those foot on the floor, torque wrench scenarios. The new spindles came with OEM bolts from Ford with the dry red locktite already on the bolts. I did not add any additional. I read that the dry locktite is actually two materials, then when compressed by installation, they react together and form the bond. Pretty cool.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/IMG_8843.JPG?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/IMG_8843.JPG?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

While I was working on this, look what arrived. My new wheels and custom fender badges. The car is going to have a Roush 427 'theme' so thought these would be cool. They are about 3/4" in height and 5.5" in length, which mimic the dimensions and color combination of the 5.0/Coyote badge. Wheels are BC Forged KL17s that are the exact same dimensions as the FFR Halibrands and clearanced for the Wilwood brakes.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/image0.JPEG?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/image0.JPEG?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

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[460.465USMC]

You're off and running, Chad. Real progress. It must be satisfying to apply the lessons learned from your first build. Nice.

Question: from which vendor did you order your fender badge?

[cv2065]

You're off and running, Chad. Real progress. It must be satisfying to apply the lessons learned from your first build. Nice.

Question: from which vendor did you order your fender badge?

Thanks Chris. It's amazing how much I forgot from the first time.:p The badge vendor is Badgeslide.com. They can do most anything and its out of metal, not acrylic or plastic.

[Justin]

Nice touch with the badge and the wheels. Where did you to for the 2" hoops? I'm not a fan of the tall 1.5" FFR bars.

Justin

[cv2065]

Nice touch with the badge and the wheels. Where did you to for the 2" hoops? I'm not a fan of the tall 1.5" FFR bars.

Justin

You mean the paperclips? LOL. Michael Craven (aka Hacksaw), pointed that out to me on my last build at a car show. He said that once you see it, you can't unsee it....and he was right, so I switched. FFR still makes the 2” roll bars. They are made to order. Speak to Madison and she’ll hook you up as some that work there don’t know they are still available. I'll be cutting about 2" off of it at some point.

[cv2065]

The IRS mid-shafts went in without issue. I painted the shaft and CV housing with POR15. These areas will rust if you look at them wrong. Then I put a little gear lube on the c clip that goes into the housing. A couple firm taps with the soft blow hammer and they both easily installed. The first time around, I never heard a click to verify full insertion on either side. This was no different, but I know by two things. One, they bottom out by the sound of the hammer. And two, I measure the gap between shaft and housing, which is supposed to be ~1/8" according to the manual. Mine is identical on both sides. And as the instructions state, give them a pull to ensure they don't release and all is good!

A couple of things I noted from the last build for the install:


Longer mid-shaft goes on the driver side, shorter one on the passenger side. Don't get them mixed up!
Grease the arms per the instructions BEFORE you install. Otherwise the bushings will bulge out as the grease will have nowhere to go when under compression.
If you use anti-seize, it will amplify torque values. You'll still be within the limits of the fastener, but I started to but decided not to. Just don't go hog wild on the mechanical lock nuts and you shouldn't have to worry about heat and galling.
Every attachment point will most likely need to be widened. Have your threaded bar, nuts and washers handy.
I left the arms with roughly 1/2" of threads showing on both sides of the lock nuts for adjustment later. Another Paul lesson from the past!
I'll be filling the smaller top holes of the knuckle with silicone to keep dirt and debris out.


Torqued all arms to 100 ft/lbs, witness marks on all bolt heads and moved on. I did get forum advice around the UCA, as the rod end seemed a little close to the arm but was guided to proper positioning and all is well. This is the basis of my earlier comment around drilling the knuckle hole. It doesn't have to be picture perfect precise and FFR planned for that. As usual, the forum is awesome!!

Shocks went together without issue, although I had a leaky one and FFR sent out a replacement that I'll get in a few days. I did note that many of the mounting eyelets on the shocks were not flush, which made getting a bolt through a little rough in some instances. And of course, if everything is not perfectly parallel, I don't know what I'd do with myself! 5 second fix and I took a C-Clamp and flattened them flush as I wasn't able to move them by hand. And to satisfy the OCD folks out there, the Factory Five logo is right side up on the springs (PAPA!) :p. All in all, both sides came out great and move up and down like butter!

I did want to make mention of the grease and quick release coupler that I used. Grab yourself a Lock N Lube zerk coupler and gone are the days of hanging from your grease gun trying to get it to release. I also used my favorite grease....GREEN Grease. Synthetic polymer grease that is super tacky, waterproof and is compatible with most other greases. Easy to see as well. I got my fitting from Amazon and Green grease is available at your local Autozone or Advanced Auto.


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[cv2065]

FFR has made some subtle improvements to the front suspension area since my last build. One is that the upper control arms did not need to be disassembled and reassembled properly. Yay! These things are a source of confusion for many, including myself, so unless this is a one off for my kit, I'm sure that this will help everyone! Welded joint at the top of the driver's side with ball joint fitting pointing out? Check! Welded joint at the bottom of the passenger side with ball joint fitting pointed out? Check!

First order of business since I have power steering is to trim the rear sleeves of the control arms up to the beveled area on each side (1/8" or so). I didn't do this last build and had to disassemble everything to go back and do it. PITA so no ground hog day for this kid! I also cut the same off of the end of each mounting bolt as well. I used my vice and hack saw with 18tpi blade. I was tempted to use my cut off wheel but wanted more precision and finesse as that tool just wants to get down to business! Took about 20 minutes to cut all of it and then cleaned up with flap disk. Don't forget to leave the lock nut on before cutting so you can straighten the threads when all done. Put it all back together to ensure that each side screwed down flush and good to go! And I didn't forget to add a "slathering" as FixIt would say, of anti-seize inside each tube so that the adjustments are buttery. But this stuff is so ridiculously messy....

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/antseize_600x600.png?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/antseize_600x600.png?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

Starting with the Mevotech ball joints, I had trouble with the kit ball joints last time, and again this time. I hit them with a wire brush, added a lot of patience, and zippo....still wouldn't screw in past a couple of threads and I'm not about to force anything. Moved on to the Moog K772, which worked great for me last time, but this time, same thing. Talk about aggravation! I know that I fiddled with them last time and they would just 'drop' in, but not this time. Went back to edwardb's 20th anniversary thread (the gift that keeps on giving) to see which Howe ball joints he used. Those would be the Howe Racing 22320S ball joints. Dropped an order into Summit and had them in 3 days. Holy mackerel are they expensive but OH BOY these are the big daddy of all ball joints!! The movement of the ball is like butter and...wait, this is a family friendly forum!! Anyhow, they dropped right in. A few drops of blue loctite and manhandled them in the vice until they would turn no further, and all good to go! I did think about having them tack welded, but I never had an issue before, so I'll just mark and keep track.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/IMG_8887_w52zh1raxp3D5KmyH1UZHG.JPG?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/IMG_8887_w52zh1raxp3D5KmyH1UZHG.JPG?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

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I'll install these tomorrow but had to get the lower control arms on first. Uneventful and tightened up to 100 ft/lbs. Threaded rod was needed again to spread the ears a bit. I needed a shim on the driver's right side and one for the passenger left side. Loosely fit the castle nut and pin with spacer. Spacer is beveled side down.

First shot of the glossy F panels and also the second change that FFR made. The F Panels now have edwardb's notch on the top left already built in to make way for the harness. How cool is that!!

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/IMG_8885.JPG?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/IMG_8885.JPG?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/IMG_8886.JPG?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/IMG_8886.JPG?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

[jeskam]

You mean the paperclips? LOL. Michael Craven (aka Hacksaw), pointed that out to me on my last build at a car show. He said that once you see it, you can't unsee it. LOL...and he was right, so I switched. FFR still makes the 2” roll bars. They are made to order. Speak to Madison and she’ll hook you up as some that work there don’t know they are still available. I'll be cutting about 2" off of it at some point.

So will they make the two inch bars in the same jig as the current 1.5” so the angles are correct?

[cv2065]

So will they make the two inch bars in the same jig as the current 1.5” so the angles are correct?

Not sure, but Micheal's sure looked good. Maybe someone else can chime in on that.

[cv2065]

Stil working on the front suspension and had a little delay as I ordered the Howe Suspension dust boots for my upper ball joints. I tried the Energy ones but they didn't seem to fit properly despite reading edwardb's build thread. Even though they are the same model number, my Howe ball joints look a little different than Paul's, so maybe something changed? Either way, thought I'd try these and had to wait for these to arrive from Summit so I could continue. They are the Howe Precision Ball Joint Boots (22399V).

So got everything together, with just the rotor and brakes left to install. A couple of learnings from the front suspension install:


In order to tighten the LCA spindle, I connected the upper ball joint and then used a piece of 2x4 to steady it all. The spindle has a multi-directional movement so isolating without connecting the UCA is really tough.
The LCA spindle castle nut is a 15/16" socket size. Once isolated, I used a 15/16" crows foot to tighten to 80 ft/lbs, as connecting the UCA does not allow the room to put a torque wrench with socket. Putting the crows foot on at a 90 degree angle does not alter the torque values.
Harbor Freight was the only local place I found (not Lowes or Home Depot) that had a 15/16" crows foot.
The driver's size castle nut did not align to install the cotter pin at the correct torque value. I swapped out with the other side and still no joy. I removed the castle nut, VERY slightly ground some of the flat side off on my workbench grinder, which did the trick. I did not want to use a washer.
Because the Howe Ball Joint uses a smaller castle nut (19mm), I was able to get a torque wrench on to it, stabilize with a 2x4 and get to the recommended torque value of 55 ft/lbs. Howe states that one can go as high as 70 ft/lbs in order to get the hole and cotter pin to align, but that wasn't needed. On both sides, it was dead on 55 ft/lbs with alignment. Not sure if that is coincidence or these things are just dead on accurate. I probably could get to the next hole and 70 ft/lbs if I wanted, as these torque so easily, but not sure that is necessary?
The LCA grease boot on the driver's side was a little 'rotund'. I put too much grease in there and squeezed out what I could out of the overflow channel before installing the spindle, but it was still a little 'puffy'. I think this will work itself out when the assembly is under load and flattens out a bit. I think you just need a couple of squirts of grease. At least this is what Howe recommends for their joints.


https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/IMG_8908.JPG?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/IMG_8908.JPG?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/(edited)_IMG_8906.png?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/(edited)_IMG_8906.png?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/IMG_8903.JPG?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/IMG_8903.JPG?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/IMG_8904.JPG?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/IMG_8904.JPG?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

Here's how the Howe dust boots align. One side is not completely aligned with the top. I hope to not have a repeat of the Moog boots on the last build, but I think they will align once there is weight and the arms move up a bit. They fit perfectly before I hooked up the arms. Cotter pin is not secured yet on the nut.


URL=https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/IMG_8909.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds]https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/IMG_8909.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds[/URL]

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/IMG_8910.JPG?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/IMG_8910.JPG?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

[cv2065]

I found out yesterday that my powder coated panels will not be ready until after Christmas. Not real happy about this as I stressed the importance of a few panels only, and they could take their time with the rest. This will impact my electrical and brake install, but it is what it is. I went ahead and jumped forward to the Power Steering rack. I used the Breeze Solid Offset Rack Mounting Kit. All I can say is that this is probably one of the best upgrades that I've made to the kit. Makes centering the steering rack "a Breeze". ;) You can find it here:

https://breezeautomotive.com/shop/offset-rack-mounting-kit-for-ffr-roadster-and-coupe/

So a couple of learnings from the install:


You have to remove the existing rack bushings and sleeves to replace with the FFR provided ones. No need for any hammers or banging. I was able to grab a hold of the lipped side of the sleeves with a pair of pilers and wiggle them out from each side.
If you are using the Breeze Offset Kit, don't put the FFR bushings and sleeves back in, as Breeze provides their version. It's a pain to do it twice, as I did not read ahead.
Breeze provides stainless steel bushings that perfectly fit into each joint from behind and the stock bolt feeds in from the front.


On my last build, it took me a bit to get the explanation of centering the PS rack. With the Breeze kit, even a caveman can do it. There was no fighting with bolts on fitment with driver's side first, angling it just right, rubber bushings catching the mount or not fitting, yada yada. With the Breeze mount you just put it right up to the mounts and push the bolts in. No hassles and the SS bushings are almost satisfying to install. Perfect fitment! I had the rack installed in 2 minutes. Then the best part is the adjustment. Manually lock the rack to the right, take a measurement. Do the same for the left and divide the difference. Put two 1/4" flat head screwdrivers into the channels of the Breeze mounts, turn at the same time the amount of distance you need, and viola, you have a centered rack in about 5 minutes then torqued everything down to 50 ft/lbs. Do yourself a favor and grab this upgrade.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/IMG_8895.JPG?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/IMG_8895.JPG?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

Mounts and adjustors from the underside. See the screwdriver adjustment channels?

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/IMG_8900.JPG?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/IMG_8900.JPG?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/IMG_8901.JPG?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/IMG_8901.JPG?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

I'll be hooking these up to the spindles tomorrow.

[cv2065]

My Roush 427 is ready, very much ahead of schedule, but I'm not going to take delivery until mid-January. Guess I'll need to give Forte a call and get that TKX ready to roll! Engine looks great and the dyno was pretty awesome. The valve covers are 2 pieces, where I can unscrew the tops and have them powder coated to the color of the car. I had the Quickfuel Brawler 750 added to a blacked out accessory package. I spoke with Eddie (V-Speed) who has roughly the same engine in his 289 with no clearance issues with poly engine mounts, so I don't think there will be any fitment issue. Engine maxed out at 554TQ and 561HP, which is right where I wanted to be.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/Engine_3.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/Engine_3.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/engine_2.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/engine_2.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/Engine_1.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/Engine_1.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/engine_4.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/engine_4.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

[Higgybulin]

Oh my!!

[cv2065]

Just noticed that the 427 has a mechanical fuel pump...Hmmm. Haven't run one of those in a long time as I couldn't run one on the last Blueprint Dart block with the power steering pump interference. Guess Roush has worked that all out. Electric or Mechanical? I do like the simplicity of the mechanical I will admit.

[kirby]

Power numbers look amazing...if not a little scary.

For me personally I don't think you can go wrong with either style of pump but I tend to like simple things and would probably keep the mechanical pump if it fits.

[Higgybulin]

What are you doing?! Taking a break...

[Fman]

That engine is sweet! Roush engines are legit and built well. Also thumbs up on the two piece valve covers!

[cv2065]

Been a while since I've posted, but that hasn't stopped the progress!! Trying to get as much done as I can before the really hot weather comes. We're already getting 80 degree days. So where did I leave off?

Oh yeah, I was just about to get the hubs and Wilwood brakes installed. So first off, the Howe dust boots for the front suspension suck. Don't get those. I had an OCD moment where I needed everything to match with the Howe ball joints and just came back to the good old Energy Suspension boots 5.13102Gs. I installed them and noticed that I had a tear on one of the bottom boots...Ugh. So I decided to take care of business there instead of waiting down the road. So again, I used the same Energy boots, just the ones for the bottom. They fit as well as the tops but are a little lopsided right now with the hanging suspension.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/IMG_8942.JPG?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/IMG_8942.JPG?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/IMG_8940.JPG?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/IMG_8940.JPG?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

I rented the tool at Autozone to pop the lower ball joint, and it was really horrible. I checked online and found this gem. Doesn't look like much but it did the job with ease. $40 and you can get it here: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08MCCSGC9/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/IMG_8951.JPG?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/IMG_8951.JPG?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

All squared up with the boots and finally was able to get my hubs on and torqued the front hub to 250 ft./lbs. I already had a torque wrench for this and worked like a champ.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/IMG_8941.JPG?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/IMG_8941.JPG?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

Wilwoods were next and again, no issues here. The Wilwood instructions are so easy to follow and had much less headache than with the banjo fittings of the Mustang brakes from last build. They are expensive, so that was the expectation. First step was to wire the rotors. Now, I've never done this and was very frustrating at first, as my fingers are not skinny and was cutting myself while trying not to damage the finish but finally got the hang of it. I bought the correct tool from Amazon and Mr. Gasket .032" Safety Lock Wire that I found at O'Reillys, model number 8022G. It was $31, which is on par with what I found online. $20 6" Safety wire pliars and I was in business.

I'm a weirdo when it comes to torque specs, so followed the Wilwood directions to the letter. I marked the head of each one so I wouldn't forget which ones were already torqued with red loctite. Came out pretty good, but don't look too close. :)

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/IMG_8924.JPG?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/IMG_8924.JPG?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/IMG_8925.JPG?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/IMG_8925.JPG?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

[cv2065]

Once the rotors were wired, on with the installation. Again, love the Wilwood program, just make sure that you have the correct installation instructions as there seem to be a few versions out there and can be confusing. Since I hve the IRS setup, I used the .PDF for part number 140-12048 for the fronts and part number 140-15138 for the rears. If you are getting custom wheels and need them cut to the Halibrand specs, the wheel manufacturer will ask you for the correct .PDF for wheel clearance stats with the Wilwood brakes.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/IMG_9101.JPG?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/IMG_9101.JPG?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/IMG_9103.JPG?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/IMG_9103.JPG?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

Spacing for the pads is obviously important, so get your glasses and ensure the calipers are evenly spaced on the rotor. I'm using the Gorilla extended knurled lug nuts. I think they are about 2.5" in length and fit perfectly with my wheels. One thing about the Dorman studs. I had the local machine shop press these in, but the threads were very sticky compared to the Ford studs on the front. Almost to the point where I thought they would get damaged with too much use. So I picked up this Lang Tools 7 piece wheel stud thread restorer kit on Amazon. These don't cut, they just clean, and man did they do a great job. These studs are like brand new! You can get it here: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000XJ5KZS?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details

Moved to the front and all is well here. Don't forget to ensure that the arrows on the caliper AND rotor are going in the right direction!

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/IMG_8969.JPG?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/IMG_8969.JPG?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/IMG_8970.JPG?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/IMG_8970.JPG?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

Last thing I have to with the suspension is to hook up the toe arms, which I'll do in the coming week. Looks like I'll be able to use my Moog's after all! And I did get my wheels and was able to fit them and ensure that they are backspaced correctly. They look sweet! These are the BC Forged KL17s.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/IMG_8930.JPG?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/IMG_8930.JPG?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/IMG_8932.JPG?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/IMG_8932.JPG?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/IMG_8931.JPG?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/IMG_8931.JPG?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

[cv2065]

So all of my parts came back from the powder coaters and am happy for the most part. The gloss black is nice looking but I have to be a little more careful as it scratches easier than the Semi Gloss I had last time. Something to think about when choosing a color and sheen. All powders are not created equal, so make sure you ask for the 'extra durable' variety. It will cost more but hold up a little better.

Breeze parts came in and of course, needed the battery relo box. Went in without a hitch and just have to remember to space it out properly with the 4" tube as it sits slightly crooked. I used the larger rivets that Mark sent, so only needed a few to hold in place. Mark also provides plenty of SS spacers to get it right. These rivets have been secured since the picture was taken.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/IMG_8933.JPG?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/IMG_8933.JPG?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/IMG_8934.JPG?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/IMG_8934.JPG?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

I also cut my center panel to accommodate the shut off switch and two USB outlets. I had the USB under the dash last time but thought they would be more serviceable here. 8-32 rivnuts were used so I didn't have to cut the install pads of each larger. Should hold fine. I'm using the Joe's Racing cutoff switch and 2 USB ports from Amazon. I used these but have a single plate for both for installation. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0B25DCNTM?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&th=1. Here's the Joe's cutoff switch: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/JOE-46216

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/IMG_9004.JPG?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/IMG_9004.JPG?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

I was also able to get my brake reservoir installed. I had the CNC triple version last time but that's been discontinued, so looked for a similar replacement. Jamar racing has one. The powdercoat colors and brake/clutch engraved labels on top of the cans are awesome. I can take or leave the Jamar labeling, but it's not too in your face, so I'm good. Very high quality piece. I'm about 10" from the footbox to the very end of the cannisters, which is where I was last time and it fit well, with the cannisters just below the 3/4" tubing. I made my bracket out of a 1/4" thick piece of aluminum sized at 3.5" x 8.75" from Online Metals. Great outfit with fast shipping. Installed with 1/4" SS button head screws and nylocs.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/IMG_9130.JPG?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/IMG_9130.JPG?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

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https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/IMG_9002.JPG?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/IMG_9002.JPG?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

Added some 90 degree angle elbow fittings with Loctite 567 thread sealant. These aren't the easiest to find in stainless steel. 1/4" ID x 1/8" Male NPT - Pack of 5: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08HYTJ8ZC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

[cv2065]

I work for PPG and had a chance to visit the Bradenton Motorsports Park which had the Pro Superstar Shootout. Bob Tasca III drives the PPG Mustang Dark Horse Nitro Funny Car, and he just happened to set the world speed record that night at 341.68 mph. Previous record was set by Robert Hight in Sonoma in 2017 at 339.87 mph. Unfortunately, this event was not an official NHRA event, so the run wasn't entered as an official NHRA record, but it did happen! Lots of fun here and if you've never felt your organs dislodging from your frame due to the rumble, one needs to go. A couple of shots.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/IMG_9060.JPG?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/IMG_9060.JPG?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/IMG_9051.JPG?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/IMG_9051.JPG?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/IMG_9046.JPG?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/IMG_9046.JPG?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

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https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/IMG_9071.JPG?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/IMG_9071.JPG?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/Screenshot_2024-03-13_235314.png?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/Screenshot_2024-03-13_235314.png?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

[cv2065]

Tank installation went very easy. Floor jack underneath. I did note that it was a different color this time. It's silver versus the black one before. I also bought a longer bolt for the passenger side as many do. I started out with the Aeromotive fuel hangar and 340 pump. All very nice pieces but the only thing I wasn't a fan of was the straight up ORB fittings. Putting a 90 degree elbow or swivel is doable, as many have, but raises the height of the fittings to the top of the 3/4" tubing and might be for some, but just wasn't a fan. So I went back to the old faithful that everyone uses, the Pro M racing hangar, but kept the Aeromotive 340 pump, as it served me well before. I am running 8AN fuel lines, so I did need a 6AN to 8AN fitting on each end of the feed and return. Aeromotive recommends this same setup for carb'd engine. By the way, the Evil Energy fittings are really nice, especially compared to the Fragola stuff. Every Fragola fitting I ordered always looked banged up on the end. Maybe it was just my luck but never with the EE fittings.

I did take a look at the Quantum hangar offering as I would have preferred an 8AN fitting already on the feed, but when comparing the two, the housings were almost identical. The biggest difference was the gauge of wire used to the pump. Pro M used what looked like 10GA, and the Quantum used 12GA. I read that without the proper wiring size, it could cause a fire and that settled that in favor of the Pro M. I will say that the Quantum Customer Service was impeccable as well as very fast shipping. Also, if you buy the Quantum 340 pump with hangar, it comes all pre-wired, so no cutting or butt connectors needed, so may work fine with a smaller pump. Speaking of butt connectors, I used the same that Paul had recommended last time, the step down, solvent resistant variety from Del City, Molex 19164-0077 Perma Seal butt connector.

Cutting the hole was the first step, which is not my favorite thing to do. One screw up or leave something in the tank and it can cost you some $$$. I used my shop vac taped around the hole with a Dremel and grinding stone. Worked great, but even with all of that suction I still needed to give the inside of the tank a once over wipe. When installing into the hole, even with the cut, the hanger will seem like its just too big. You really need to squeeze the return tube just right to get it through at the right angle. And of course, be careful with the wires. the sides of the tank hole are like razors. I used tape last time to dull it out, but didn't want anything to fall into the tank during install so winged it.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/IMG_9100.JPG?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/IMG_9100.JPG?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

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https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/IMG_9126.JPG?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/IMG_9126.JPG?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

I upgraded to the Ford Filler neck seal part #F4ZZ9072DA. Big difference in quality versus the FFR provided part. I also used the Breeze Big Bore Vent Check Valve, part #70648. Once the filler neck was installed (lightly lubed with oil of course), I capped it off at the top with a Fernco 2" Pipe Cap (part #PQC-102) from Amazon to keep things out of the tube. The last build, I was on my maiden voyage and the tube fell to the ground and I'm sure ate some gravel. :(

Last build I used the Trick Flow cannister filter that Paul had used. Loved it and very high-quality part. This time I was looking for a cannister with an 8AN sized inlet/outlet already built in. Enter the Red Horse 4501-08-2 10 8AN ORB 10 Micron fuel filter. What a beauty. Never heard of Red Horse before, but stuff seems nicely built. Adding a couple of Evil Energy fittings and ready to rock. The mounting plate is reversible for multiple ways to attach. I wanted to use the holes that were already in the frame, but they were either too big or not aligned right. I used one and had to drill another. It looks close to the tank in the picture but plenty of clearance.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/IMG_9019.JPG?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/IMG_9019.JPG?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

And before I forget, I DID NOT forget the Kleiner mod!

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/IMG_9171.JPG?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/IMG_9171.JPG?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

[Higgybulin]

You know, if you update your thread more often...you wouldn't have to stay up till 1AM writing a book!! Build looks like it is coming along! Love the wheels, i am sensing another black out theme. Bradenton looked like a great time as well!!

[cv2065]

What’s up Higgy! I’m on vacation this week so am keeping some late hours. :). I got through about half of my update. More to come. And yeah, blacked out is the only way to go for me.

[cv2065]

Completed the pedal box with no issues. I was going to use straight fittings instead of the 90 degree elbows with the MCs, but as I bent the brake lines, they seem to extend a bit far to the rear of the box and wasn't sure if I was going to have any clearance issues with the harness, as I like to run up the left side of the box instead of the right, so I went back to the 90 degree ones. The concern was rotating those around to the right position without overtightening. I think I'm good to go.

I cut 5/8" off of the MC rods and they fit perfectly. I also cut 3 separate holes for into the front of the box for the hoses. Drilling through that plate is NOT a great time. I also scored some grommets from McMaster car that were suited for 1/4" material thickness. Trying to get the grommet between the plate and sheet metal is difficult when all buttoned up. These fit perfectly. I used part #9307K63. The larger orange grommets are the only ones I could find that were high temp. Seemed like the Mac Truck grommet I found last time has a temperature issue, as it was always gooey during the build after a run. I had to take one of these out as the harness has its own grommet.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/IMG_9162.JPG?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/IMG_9162.JPG?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/IMG_9156.JPG?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/IMG_9156.JPG?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

When I partially assembled the driver's foot box, I put the sound deadener in before hand. Last time I cut the patterns and put in after the fact, but its a small space, so makes it easier this way. I might have to go back and seal up a couple of spots when I do the 'light' test for heat leaks. I used the 80 mil Kil Mat this time around instead of the ThermoTec. It's a bit cheaper and also comes in smaller sheets so its easier to use for smaller panels and I don't seem to have as much waste. Function and material seems to be the same.

I received my Russ Thompson pedal from TJ at Mountain Metalworks. He's done a great job carrying on Russ' legacy with these pieces. They are identical to his design and function. That will be hooked up to Forte's throttle assembly once installed. Can't recall why I have those big washers under the cap screws that hold the pedal box, but I'll be replacing that hardware.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/IMG_8964.JPG?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/IMG_8964.JPG?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

While I was at it, I also completed the passenger side footbox. I buttoned this up with black oversized headed rivets and more Kil Mat. I tucked all of my joining tabs inside the box for a smooth look top to bottom. Came out really nice.

You'll also notice the Aeromotive X1 Series fuel regulator (13304) that I installed for my carb'd setup. Very versatile if I want to swap out to FI later. What a top-quality piece! I also added the Marshal Instruments Fuel Pressure Gauge as it was the only one I could find in black. You can find that here:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01J46PKPA/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/IMG_9117.JPG?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/IMG_9117.JPG?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

URL=https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/IMG_9106.JPG?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds]https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/IMG_9106.JPG?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds[/URL]

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/IMG_9097.JPG?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/IMG_9097.JPG?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/IMG_9107.JPG?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/IMG_9107.JPG?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

[cv2065]

I decided that I wanted the e-brake on the top of the tunnel this time around as I'm going to be using the mid-shift kit from Forte. Thanks to Mike Craven and his outstanding build for the visual. Lots of different ways to do this on the forum, so I started down the road of making this much more complicated than it needed to be. At the recommendation from Wallace18, I bought the blacked out Lokar Kit (Model XEHB-700F) from Speedway Motors. This came with the handle assembly, clevis, boot and also the trim ring, which is a nice bonus, as they are hard to find.

I wanted to put the handle as far back on the tunnel as possible on the passenger side, but there's not much room as the supports come together at the corner. The handle was to be mounted through the 1" tubing and needed to be spaced out, so I bought a 12" x 1", 1/4" thick plate of aluminum to serve as the spacer and help support the tubing. The tunnel tubing is not that thick so I thought bolstering it up a bit and spreading the load over a foot would help with the stress of pulling up on the handle.

I then drilled 5/16" holes through the tubing, spacer and secured with a bolt through the lokar handle mounting holes. I now have a drill press, and man did that make things easy!

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/IMG_9131.JPG?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/IMG_9131.JPG?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/IMG_9132.JPG?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/IMG_9132.JPG?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/IMG_9178.JPG?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/IMG_9178.JPG?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/IMG_9177.JPG?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/IMG_9177.JPG?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

I used the FFR supplied cables that i ran over the IRS and connected right into the frame bracket and will be secured into the clevis. Not much slack between the bracket and clevis and the angle seems doable. MSummers has a similar setup that works fine.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/IMG_9105.JPG?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/IMG_9105.JPG?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

Then they run to the Wilwood calipers. Again, this setup is SO much better than the Mustang calipers that I had before. Getting the ebrake to work with a custom spring, etc., was a bit tedious. The Wilwoods come with a connecting bracket and the e brake cable fit right up into the channel and I secured with an E clip.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/IMG_9104.JPG?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/IMG_9104.JPG?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

Final testing still needed, but I like how its routed and hopefully will get much better engagement that what I had before. I will be cutting off the FFR e brake bracket from the frame so that I can create a flush patch panel.

[cv2065]

On the last build, I had the steering shaft collar and footbox bearing on the outside of the footbox as per the instructions. But I had a heck of a time getting it inserted into the lower joint, and always wondered that if I needed to pull it out later, it would most like mean that the body was going to have to come off. So this time, I took the advice of several forum members and put it on the inside of the box which is much better. Grind a little off at the top of the clam shell to clear the nut and all is good.

I also saw a post about recesses in the steering shaft to accommodate the set screws. The instructions have you put in one recess, but not another at the other end of the shaft. Odd? I reached out to FFR just to be sure I wasn't missing anything and asked about putting in the other recess, and they had no issue, but to just be sure to measure properly. And that's what I did. Drill press again made things very easy. All came out great, but if you do goof it up, you can just turn the shaft over and have another go. Along with the recesses, I also upgraded the set screws as they were a little too short for my liking. I replaced with Corrosion Resistant 5/8" SS 5/16-18 set screws (McMaster Carr #92313A580). These have a cup point tip that really dig into the shaft and used a little blue loctite. I never had any issues before with no recesses on the shaft, but certainly can't hurt.

I did have to give the shaft a little deburring with a flat file as it would not slide easily through the upper bearing. I'm reminded that this needs to be collapsable in case of an accident, and mine now slides easily in or out. I'm using the RT Turn Signal mod from Mountain Metalworks, so I haven't put the spring washers in yet or mounted the upper bearing. The footbox bearing is also still lose at this point.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/IMG_9099.JPG?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/IMG_9099.JPG?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/IMG_9116.JPG?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/IMG_9116.JPG?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/IMG_9176.JPG?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/IMG_9176.JPG?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/IMG_9175.JPG?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/IMG_9175.JPG?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

Brake lines are done and I'll post more there once secured.

[cv2065]

I managed to get the fuse panel installed and ran the front and rear harnesses. For the fuse panel I used 10-32 Rivnuts instead of rivets in case it needed to be dropped down the road. Looks like I'm missing a screw in the picture. I could have probably tapped it just as easily. I also took a page out of Paul's playbook and added an extra support on the upper left side so it's not just hanging there in space and is now rock solid. I used one of the four support straps that FFR gives you for the fan and just bent it to size.

Thinking about an angled cover that I can put over the top of the panel in the event of moisture getting in or the MCs leaking so that it drains away but haven't fabricated anything yet.


URL=https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/IMG_9159.JPG?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds]https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/IMG_9159.JPG?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds[/URL]

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/IMG_9160.JPG?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/IMG_9160.JPG?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

[cc2Arider]

"Thinking about an angled cover that I can put over the top of the panel in the event of moisture getting in or the MCs leaking so that it drains away but haven't fabricated anything yet."

I was thinking about making something like that, too :) if I decide to keep my fuseblock in the standard location. I like GoDadGo's approach (Passenger-side), but I also have the heater box and haven't checked all the fitment issues yet. Then there's a small possibility to mount in a central location since I'm going to make a glovebox/cubby like John Ibele :cool:

Looking good!

Craig C

[edwardb]

I played around trying to make a cover over the fuse panel a couple builds ago. It's a busy place and gave up after I decided my solution likely wouldn't help if one of the MC's decided to leak. Getting it actually sealed wasn't successful and decided even deflecting would eventually find the fuse panel. Brake fluid is just plain evil... Maybe you're more creative (or patient) than me. Fortunately, multiple builds with the MC's above the fuse panel and no brake fluid leaks to date. Now water infiltration from the windshield posts hitting the fuse panel? I was a slow learner on that one. Two failed turn signal flashers later decided I needed to seal around the posts. Problem solved.

[cv2065]

I Now water infiltration from the windshield posts hitting the fuse panel? I was a slow learner on that one. Two failed turn signal flashers later decided I needed to seal around the posts. Problem solved.

Thanks Paul. Didn’t think about that one. I’ll give it a go and see what evolves.

[Higgybulin]

Too hot to work down there or what?!!

[cv2065]

Too hot to work down there or what?!!

I'm up to 2 clothes changes a day in the garage. When I get to 3, then I know I'm into the true Summer. :)

[cv2065]

I've had these run for a bit but just haven't updated. I still have the short feed line to filter to complete for fuel, but the long runs are done. I used 8AN hoses and fittings and found that all PTFE hoses are not created equal. The ones that I received from Hot Rod Hoses looked great, but they were extremely stiff and a bit harder to wield when navigating corners. I bought some from ANPlumbing.com and wow what a difference. They use the PTFE Pro Plus hoses from XRP, and they are super flexible. Bought them in the XM Monofilament so that they fit the blacked out look I'm going for. I used SS single and double Helix line clamps from Summit (HLT-12469 and HLI-12470). Pricey, but look great and well made. My lines were about 1.5" longer than I actually needed, so had to get creative but wasn't that big of a deal.

Running from the regulator:
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/IMG_9327.JPG?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/IMG_9327.JPG?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

Along the 4" tube:
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/IMG_9326.JPG?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/IMG_9326.JPG?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

Up the Side:
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/IMG_9324.JPG?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/IMG_9324.JPG?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

Up the Side:
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/IMG_9323.JPG?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/IMG_9323.JPG?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

Filter and Return:
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/IMG_9329.JPG?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/IMG_9329.JPG?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

[cv2065]

Again, have had these done for some time. I like to use the pre-flared lengths from Advance Auto. They have the 3/16" Poly Armor that are steel lines with a protective coatings over them. Look great and easy to bend. One has to be creative when working with the fixed lengths as one miscalculation in length, and it's time for another $10 line.

Rears:
From the box:
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/IMG_9337.JPG?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/IMG_9337.JPG?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

Down the box:
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/IMG_9336.JPG?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/IMG_9336.JPG?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

Along the 4" Tube
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/IMG_9335.JPG?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/IMG_9335.JPG?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

Up the frame:
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/IMG_9332.JPG?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/IMG_9332.JPG?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

Across the Rear:
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/IMG_9331.JPG?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/IMG_9331.JPG?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

[cv2065]

Again, used the 3/16" pre-made lines. The front is a little more challenging in this regard as there are more curves, but with a little planning, can be done. I won't be winning any awards, but I think it came out nicely and functional.

From the box:
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/IMG_9235.JPG?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/IMG_9235.JPG?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

Along the Frame:
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/IMG_9341.JPG?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/IMG_9341.JPG?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

Around the Front:
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/IMG_9340.JPG?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/IMG_9340.JPG?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

Along the X-Member:
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/IMG_9338.JPG?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/IMG_9338.JPG?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

And to the End:
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/IMG_9339.JPG?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/IMG_9339.JPG?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

[cv2065]

Ah, one of my favorite parts, the carbon fiber dash. Another one mistake and shell out the $$$ activity! The drill press really earned its purchase price with the one. I was able to get every bit of the dash underneath when cutting with the 6 different sizes of hole saws. As others have said, the fine CF dust can get everywhere, including your lungs, so I did use a respirator and also cleaned up with my shop vac after each cut. Bought my drill press off Facebook marketplace for $150 new. What a deal!

I bought custom gauges from Speedhut. I worked directly with one of their designers. The service is free and they are very patient to give you exactly what you want. After about 4 proofs, we were good to go. I'm going for a red/black Roush theme for the car, and Speedhut did not disappoint. I also went with oversized gauges instead of the standard FFR. That would be 4.5" gauges for the Speedo and Tach, as well as 2 5/8" gauges for the others. Shout out to Michael Craven (aka Hacksaw) for that idea.

In order to get my holes right, I ordered some metal discs off of Etsy in the exact sizes of the gauges faces and had a 1/8" hole put into the middle of each disk. Covered the dash in blue tape, aligned the discs the way that I wanted them and dotted the mid-point. Used that as my starting point with the hole saws and came out great. I buffered out 3/4" from the top of the dash to give me plenty of room after the initial fitting to the hoop. The larger gauges need some planning.

Not a lot of info out there yet for the CF dash, so winging it a little based on what I could find. When level, the dash is a little uneven to the hoop, especially on the far sides. I started by aligning the middle of the dash with the middle top of the hoop. The right side aligned about 3/16" under the tube, but the driver side was higher when the dash was level. I drew a line on the back of the dash where it exceeded the top of the hoop and measured 3/4" from that line which is where my gauges on that side started. Then I trimmed a little off the top right to level it out a bit. Came out nicely. Bottom of the dash was ~38.5" from the floor, side to side and the glove box butts up against the support, so can't go any further to the driver's side. That makes it really close to a vertical alignment with the trans tunnel. I think with every carbon fiber dash, there is a spot mid drivers side that doesn't align with the hoop like the rest of the dash. Seems to be the same for most everyone.

Measuring:
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/(edited)_IMG_9261.png?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/(edited)_IMG_9261.png?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

Drilling:
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/IMG_9281.JPG?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/IMG_9281.JPG?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

Hoop Fitting:
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/IMG_9296.JPG?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/IMG_9296.JPG?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/IMG_9293.JPG?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/IMG_9293.JPG?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/IMG_9295.JPG?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/IMG_9295.JPG?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

I also notched out a small area on the passenger side as it conflicted with the door hinge:

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/IMG_9343.JPG?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/IMG_9343.JPG?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

Test fit the gauges and am loving the look! Still need to powder coat the key bezels and add the turn signal mod, which I decided to get from Frank at i.e.427. I will have to say that the ignition key bezel that I received from FFR was a bit disappointing. I upgraded with one from Ron Francis. Once the bezel is powder coated black, RF includes a colored trim ring, which in this case will be red. All in the details!

URL=https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/(edited)_IMG_9346.png?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds]https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/(edited)_IMG_9346.png?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds[/URL]

[cv2065]

Engine has been here for a couple of months and decided to de-crate it to save some room in the garage. My cherry picker legs could not get around the pallet, so had to sawzall the corners off to make some room. Engine is a beauty! I'll be powder coating the Roush logo'd area of the air cleaner and valve covers red. The valve covers are a two piece design, where the decorative areas unscrew from the valve cover, so I don't need to take the entire thing off when I send it out for PC. Very cool!

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/IMG_9300.JPG?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/IMG_9300.JPG?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/IMG_9301.JPG?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/IMG_9301.JPG?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/IMG_9302.JPG?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/IMG_9302.JPG?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/IMG_9304.JPG?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/IMG_9304.JPG?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/IMG_9305.JPG?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/IMG_9305.JPG?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

[Nigel Allen]

I up to 2 clothes changes a day in the garage. When I get to 3, then I know I'm into the true Summer. :)

"Sweating like a gypsy with a mortgage"

[cv2065]

Seats did show up! Yay! But they had headrests..:( Don't get me wrong, the headrests are a work of art, but they don't go with my build and one rollbar. So, reached out to Rob at Intatrim and he's making me a new set. Honest mix up and he's making it right.

I do have these and am helping him sell, so if anyone is interested, just hit me up! They are really nice marine upholstery with Cobra logo in the headrests. Black and Red diamond stitching. First picture is of the seat and second/third of the actual headrests. All still in shrinkwrap in the box.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/Screenshot_2024-03-06_212934.png?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/Screenshot_2024-03-06_212934.png?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/IMG_9288.JPG?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/IMG_9288.JPG?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/IMG_9289.JPG?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/IMG_9289.JPG?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

All I've got for now. I do need to revise a couple of things. One, the brake lines at the front of the car need 90 degree fittings. I had already purchased these but forgot to put them in place and the tires will rub, so I'll need to install and re-bleed the front end. Speaking of which, I'm using this vacuum bleeder from Harbor Freight. Best $99 I've spent in a long time. 5 minute bleed on each corner with no mess. In case anyone is interested:

https://www.harborfreight.com/pneumatic-air-operated-brake-bleeder-with-auto-refill-kit-57057.html

I am also fitting my wheels and it turns out that the studs I had pressed in at the local machine shop, one of the hubs has a flaw and the stud is not completely straight. Wish I had known this before as I'm going to have to tear down the rear passenger side and pull the hub. :mad:

[Blitzboy54]

Those gauges are sick.

[Blitzboy54]

It’s funny you were just ahead of me the first time and now seem to be right about the same place the second time. I went with gloss black in the engine bay in my first one. I was pleasantly surprised how it held up. You know how hard a dark car is to keep clean. It obviously gets dusty but all the road grime blends in.

Lookin good man. Between you and me your first car had more design influence on my build than any other I followed. Maybe by a lot.

Your build is looking really clean so far.

[cv2065]

It’s funny you were just ahead of me the first time and now seem to be right about the same place the second time. I went with gloss black in the engine bay in my first one. I was pleasantly surprised how it held up. You know how hard a dark car is to keep clean. It obviously gets dusty but all the road grime blends in.

Lookin good man. Between you and me your first car had more design influence on my build than any other I followed. Maybe by a lot.

Your build is looking really clean so far.

Thanks man! I'm sure I've looked at your build thread many times as well. Trying to step this one up another notch. I thought about doing a hammered look but settled back on the gloss. Just have to be extra careful not to scratch it! Glad to see that you are venturing out again. I look forward to watching your build as well. I just have to get better at updating this thread. :)

[Higgybulin]

Did you get to a final decsion on the power rack tie rods? I see someone else is asking about shorting the inners on a replacement they got from FF.
Higgy

[Jespinosa]

Completed the pedal box with no issues. I was going to use straight fittings instead of the 90 degree elbows with the MCs, but as I bent the brake lines, they seem to extend a bit far to the rear of the box and wasn't sure if I was going to have any clearance issues with the harness, as I like to run up the left side of the box instead of the right, so I went back to the 90 degree ones. The concern was rotating those around to the right position without overtightening. I think I'm good to go.

I cut 5/8" off of the MC rods and they fit perfectly. I also cut 3 separate holes for into the front of the box for the hoses. Drilling through that plate is NOT a great time. I also scored some grommets from McMaster car that were suited for 1/4" material thickness. Trying to get the grommet between the plate and sheet metal is difficult when all buttoned up. These fit perfectly. I used part #9307K63. The larger orange grommets are the only ones I could find that were high temp. Seemed like the Mac Truck grommet I found last time has a temperature issue, as it was always gooey during the build after a run. I had to take one of these out as the harness has its own grommet.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/IMG_9162.JPG?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/IMG_9162.JPG?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/IMG_9156.JPG?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/IMG_9156.JPG?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

When I partially assembled the driver's foot box, I put the sound deadener in before hand. Last time I cut the patterns and put in after the fact, but its a small space, so makes it easier this way. I might have to go back and seal up a couple of spots when I do the 'light' test for heat leaks. I used the 80 mil Kil Mat this time around instead of the ThermoTec. It's a bit cheaper and also comes in smaller sheets so its easier to use for smaller panels and I don't seem to have as much waste. Function and material seems to be the same.

I received my Russ Thompson pedal from TJ at Mountain Metalworks. He's done a great job carrying on Russ' legacy with these pieces. They are identical to his design and function. That will be hooked up to Forte's throttle assembly once installed. Can't recall why I have those big washers under the cap screws that hold the pedal box, but I'll be replacing that hardware.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/IMG_8964.JPG?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/IMG_8964.JPG?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

While I was at it, I also completed the passenger side footbox. I buttoned this up with black oversized headed rivets and more Kil Mat. I tucked all of my joining tabs inside the box for a smooth look top to bottom. Came out really nice.

You'll also notice the Aeromotive X1 Series fuel regulator (13304) that I installed for my carb'd setup. Very versatile if I want to swap out to FI later. What a top-quality piece! I also added the Marshal Instruments Fuel Pressure Gauge as it was the only one I could find in black. You can find that here:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01J46PKPA/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/IMG_9117.JPG?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/IMG_9117.JPG?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

URL=https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/IMG_9106.JPG?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds]https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/IMG_9106.JPG?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds[/URL]

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/IMG_9097.JPG?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/IMG_9097.JPG?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/IMG_9107.JPG?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/IMG_9107.JPG?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

Loving the build so far!! I have a quick question, as far as the sound deadening is concerned, are you only using the Killmat for this build or do you plan on using an additional layer of another material for the footboxes? I am concerned about the heat transfer from the exhaust headers and would like to use one material if possible. It seems that the Killmat is a sound deadening material, but it does offer some heat protection as it seems very similar to other products used by other builders like Fatmat and other similar butyl rubber products.

[cv2065]

Loving the build so far!! I have a quick question, as far as the sound deadening is concerned, are you only using the Killmat for this build or do you plan on using an additional layer of another material for the footboxes? I am concerned about the heat transfer from the exhaust headers and would like to use one material if possible. It seems that the Killmat is a sound deadening material, but it does offer some heat protection as it seems very similar to other products used by other builders like Fatmat and other similar butyl rubber products.

I used two different materials on the footboxes on my last build. I'm not sure how much the extra layer actually provided, but my footboxes were never hot. Others haven't used anything other than sound deadening with no crazy temps. What did get hot was the lower area by the driver's side door from the side pipes. I've insulated this build in that area with this stuff:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08774J7RL/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I've cut some for the front of the footboxes but haven't decided if I'm going to use or not. The gloss black is too pretty to cover up! :p

[danmas]

Seats did show up! Yay! But they had headrests..:( Don't get me wrong, the headrests are a work of art, but they don't go with my build and one rollbar. So, reached out to Rob at Intatrim and he's making me a new set. Honest mix up and he's making it right.

I do have these and am helping him sell, so if anyone is interested, just hit me up! They are really nice marine upholstery with Cobra logo in the headrests. Black and Red diamond stitching. First picture is of the seat and second/third of the actual headrests. All still in shrinkwrap in the box.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/Screenshot_2024-03-06_212934.png?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/Screenshot_2024-03-06_212934.png?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/IMG_9288.JPG?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/IMG_9288.JPG?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/IMG_9289.JPG?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/IMG_9289.JPG?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

All I've got for now. I do need to revise a couple of things. One, the brake lines at the front of the car need 90 degree fittings. I had already purchased these but forgot to put them in place and the tires will rub, so I'll need to install and re-bleed the front end. Speaking of which, I'm using this vacuum bleeder from Harbor Freight. Best $99 I've spent in a long time. 5 minute bleed on each corner with no mess. In case anyone is interested:

https://www.harborfreight.com/pneumatic-air-operated-brake-bleeder-with-auto-refill-kit-57057.html

I am also fitting my wheels and it turns out that the studs I had pressed in at the local machine shop, one of the hubs has a flaw and the stud is not completely straight. Wish I had known this before as I'm going to have to tear down the rear passenger side and pull the hub. :mad:

Tried to pm you but your box is full…

Seats still available?

[cv2065]

Tried to pm you but your box is full…

Seats still available?

I cleared it out. Thanks for the heads up. Seats were sold.

[BadAsp427]

Build is really looking good so far.. The gloss black panels are sharp....

[cv2065]

Build is really looking good so far.. The gloss black panels are sharp....

Thanks Carl. Hope all is well Bud!

[cv2065]

Ok, so I haven't posted in a while, but lots going on. Good news is that its starting to cool off a bit and I can spend more time in the garage. Although a Mr. Cool garage mini split wall unit has been looking good lately. Not sure if anyone has put one of these in, but I always say I'm going to put one in, procrastinate, then the heat goes away and I forget about it until I'm sweating bullets the next summer. Rinse and Repeat! Thinking of something like this:

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/Screenshot_2024-09-29_231409.png?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/Screenshot_2024-09-29_231409.png?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

In the meantime, lots to report, but not as much as I'd like. First off, I had to redo my fuel lines. Wasn't happy about that at all. I had to change out the black monofilament to the stainless for durability. Wish they had mentioned that during the initial purchase, but live and learn. On the positive side, the second routing I think was a lot tighter as I was able to reduce the length by 2" and looks a little better overall.

I did learn that the stainless steel helix clamps need to be widened a bit in the vice before installing or they squeeze the tubing too tightly. I mixed and matched the singles and doubles for the best look throughout the length to get it straight. No one will ever see it, but didn't want any slop, especially with respect to road debris, etc.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/IMG_9404.JPG?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/IMG_9404.JPG?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/IMG_9405.JPG?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/IMG_9405.JPG?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/IMG_9407_dufYdELAttQiEoJPABp9Kf.JPG?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/IMG_9407_dufYdELAttQiEoJPABp9Kf.JPG?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/IMG_9406.JPG?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/IMG_9406.JPG?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/IMG_9408_6W7t1RVFGsbCK4qyCfApsb.JPG?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/IMG_9408_6W7t1RVFGsbCK4qyCfApsb.JPG?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/IMG_9410_nJWuzi5LGdyjQhw4rWRtUX.JPG?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/IMG_9410_nJWuzi5LGdyjQhw4rWRtUX.JPG?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

[cv2065]

Once done here I circled back and bled my brakes. I used two bleeders. For the main bleed I used the Harbor Freight Pneumatic bleeder. Hooked it up to my pancake air compressor and I literally did each side in about 5 minutes. I have the Wilwood brakes, which makes bleeding a BREEZE compared to the old mustang brakes on the last build. Banjo fittings are for the birds! Just hold the rubber nipple of the bleeder on the bleeder fitting, open the bleeder valve on the tank for suction, open the bleeder screw 1/4 turn and BAM, you are in business. Lots of reviews say that air gets in at the fitting and causes a lot of bubbles, which is true, but it's still bleeding the system. Just close the bleeder screw before you close the valve on the tank so it keeps sucking. When you do this it sucks any remaining brake fluid around the fitting and makes for a very clean, drip free exercise. I did not use the autofill tank. Just have to refill the reservoir after each wheel. Here's the unit:

https://www.harborfreight.com/pneumatic-air-operated-brake-bleeder-with-auto-refill-kit-57057.html

I then came back and double checked my work with a simple one-man bleeder from Autozone to ensure that there were no bubbles in the line. Rock Hard pedal every time and zero leaks. Nice!!

https://www.autozone.com/test-scan-and-specialty-tools/brake-bleeder/p/duralast-one-man-brake-bleeder-kit/1267199_0_0?searchText=one+man+bleed+kit&redirectUrl=true

[cv2065]

I debated whether to put a charcoal filter on but decided to go for it. I didn't use the PVC route this time but used an 8AN fuel filter Kit with nipple. Simply unscrew the end, cut some scotch brite pads up and place at the bottom inlet to keep the charcoal in place and ventilate. Fill with charcoal and replace the top. I bought an 8AN nipple for the top hose and it even came with a mounting bracket. I did place on the driver's side of the car in the rear as the passenger side is just too congested with the fuel and brake line hangers. Here's the cannister, fitting and charcoal I used:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0967CXJXC?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CKBVL59Y?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01GN7ZQ70?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details

It's a thing of beauty that no one will see. The clamp on this makes it really easy to remove if the need arises in the future. It really wasn't far off in price from the PVC version. Vent tubing runs along the backside of the tank to the Big Bore fitting. I'll secure it with clamps after I install the drop trunk for the final time.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/IMG_9422.JPG?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/IMG_9422.JPG?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/IMG_9442.JPG?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/IMG_9442.JPG?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/(edited)_IMG_9421_wERaPavFbERwk3ZvVYsYJu.png?width =960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/(edited)_IMG_9421_wERaPavFbERwk3ZvVYsYJu.png?width =960&height=720&fit=bounds)

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/IMG_9443_xvmN9R1M6VoyttNQc1ufTH.JPG?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/IMG_9443_xvmN9R1M6VoyttNQc1ufTH.JPG?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

[cv2065]

Swung back to the brakes for a second and installed the Wilwood brake bias controller. I didn't have this the last time around, and wasn't sure how much it would get used, but thought it was a cool feature when trying to adjust the braking bias the first time out. I never felt that the brakes on my last build were 100%. Good enough, but not perfect. I think it was due to the brake bias that was kind of a pain to adjust after the fact.

Anyhow, made a custom template out of cardboard, cut out of scrap metal and then it perfectly placed right underneath the master cylinders/mechanical linkage. Definitely a fitment that you have to fiddle with to ensure that there is no interference anywhere, but worth the add I think. Works like it should. Everything is tapped or rivnut. I'm trying to stay away from rivets where I can to keep everything accessible. I normally would have looped my rear brake line coming out of the MC, but glad I didn't or this would have been a little harder to accommodate.

Always love to see MADE IN THE USA!

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/IMG_9416.JPG?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/IMG_9416.JPG?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/IMG_9417.JPG?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/IMG_9417.JPG?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/(edited)_IMG_9418.png?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/(edited)_IMG_9418.png?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

[cv2065]

I've been trying to get to the engine and trans, but I've been routing a lot of time to other things. The first thing up was the flywheel and backplate. Roush has a universal plate on their engines that wasn't up to snuff for the Quicktime bellhousing, so had to swap it out. Roush was telling me that any other backplate might interfere with the oil pan lip. Took off the flywheel, slapped it on and no interference. YAY! You can see the differences and clearance below:

No block plate (Roush 427R)
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/IMG_9395.JPG?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/IMG_9395.JPG?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

Roush Block Plate
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/IMG_9389.JPG?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/IMG_9389.JPG?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

QT Block Plate
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/IMG_9390.JPG?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/IMG_9390.JPG?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

Oil Pan Lip Clearance (About 3/16")
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/IMG_9394.JPG?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/IMG_9394.JPG?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

Dowel pins were installed using Green 620 loctite in the holes and a brass hammer to avoid any mushrooming. They went in without much effort but they do need a good whacking. Hard to source a brass hammer anywhere these days, even at the big box stores, so ordered from Amazon. Had it here in a day. Here's the hammer that I used:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N529ZCR/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Flywheel went on using ARP Flywheel Bolts. Nothing but the best! I used ARP 200-2802 PRO series. These babies torque up to 85 ft/lbs with ARP's Ultralube under the bolt head and used blue loctite on the threads, just as they instruct. ARP informed me that the HP 100-2801 series that I used last time have been discontinued, and the Pro series is all that will be produced. There's a 10 ft/lb torque difference between the two, so make sure you have the right ones as Summit is sending out 200-2802 series bolts with a 100-2801 sticker. Not sure why they are doing that. Flywheel is the McLeod steel 463100. If you look closely at the pic, you'll also see the OTC flywheel stop that I used to keep it from turning while torquing down the bolts. Simple but really effective vs. a screwdriver or something like that. I always try to use the right tool for the job. You can get that here:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0819XDH3C/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/IMG_9543.JPG?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/IMG_9543.JPG?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

Next up was aligning the QT bellhousing. This was a real PITA and not something I really want to do again. I have to take the blame (LOL) as I got my dial indicator from Harbor Freight. That was OK when I just had the stock aluminum bell that you really can't adjust, but not with the QT. I didn't want to spend a ton of money, but after quite a bit of frustration with very random readings time after time, I ponied up for the Noga DG1033 base with Mitutoyo 24165 dial indicator. WOW, what a difference. The base alone was incredibly stable and rotated much easier than the HF junk. Do yourself a favor and don't do what I did. You can find them here:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C6ARLFE/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001C0ZOPS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Anyhow, finally produced some very repeatable readings and my QT bell was just outside of the .005 tolerance. So now it was time to get some offset dowels. Before install, I needed to take the old ones out. That's not a fun job even when I had access to the back of the pin. I tried tapping it out from the rear, pulling with plyers and a host of other creative methods, and none of them worked. There is a tool for everything, and I found a dowel pin puller., the Cal Van Tools, Model #95400. After the tool was setup, I had each dowel out in about 2 minutes with zero collateral damage. You can find it here:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006LUELJO/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Afterwards, I bought the RobbMC .007 offset dowel kit (Item #1014) right from his website. High quality pieces. I coated with Green 620 Loctite (made for cylinders), installed them at the correct angle (which happened to be between 25-26 degrees), and tightened down the set screw to 50 in/lbs. I highly recommend allowing the green Loctite to cure before reinstalling the bellhousing. If the dowels move you may have to start all over again BUT can avoid that if you record the angle of your dowels when you first set them in place with an angle finder. With offset dowels in place, we got to a very happy place with readings. Repeated 3 times and moved on. Don't forget a very thin coat of grease on the dowels or they will surface rust.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/IMG_9475.JPG?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/IMG_9475.JPG?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

Lots of clutches to choose from and I selected the CenterForce Dual Friction 10.5" Clutch Kit #DF161830. I had a CenterForce the last time and loved it. This model will give you performance up to 600 ft/lbs of torque while having good street manners. Perfect for my setup. Used ARP bolts once again, ARP #150-2202. These 8mm pressure plate bolts come with washers, so I did the same as with the flywheel bolts. ARP Ultra lube under the bolt head and washer with blue Loctite on the threads. Torque to 25 ft/lbs as per ARP instructions.

I don't recommend the plastic clutch disc alignment tool. I already had the RAM billet steel version 03-048 but used the plastic one when I knew better. Clutch disc was not aligned correctly with the plastic tool even as I held the disc up a bit while tightening the screws. I pulled it off and used the RAM alignment tool and it was perfect. Didn't have to hold or monitor anything. It's $50 of peace of mind as the trans is already a bit of a struggle to insert, so why make it more complicated? Final product is right on the money.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/IMG_9558.JPG?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/IMG_9558.JPG?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

[Higgybulin]

Great update! I guess you have been busy! I will be down in a few weeks and be by to lay eyes on this beast if we can work it out. Keep on thrashing!
Higgy

[Blitzboy54]

Awesome updates. Looks really good.

I figured the heat was slowing you down. I did in fact put a mini split kit in my house like you showed (4 units). My house has radiators and no ducts so it was the only real option. I can say with confidence if you can build one of these mini splits are a piece of cake.

Build looks amazing and I am 100% going to steal you charcoal can idea. :)

[cv2065]

The QT bellhousing uses an adjustable pivot ball. Mike Forte agreed that he prefers the fixed pivot ball over the adjustable, and so do I, so he sent one out and it arrived today! Look at that beast! For the price one pays for a QT Bellhousing, they need to get with the program! Based on some other posts and where many of the adjustable pivot balls landed in terms of height, from the bottom of the bolt head to the bottom of the adjustable nut it was 1.293". I haven't tested this yet, but ironically, what Mike sent to me after doing his calculations it was just about identical with the added locking washer he included. Mike knows his stuff! The real difference is the thread engagement of the bolts, which is much greater on the fixed bolt. Anxious to get it all hooked up this weekend.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/IMG_9576.JPG?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/IMG_9576.JPG?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

While I was thinking about the trans, and getting this puppy on the ground soon for the engine install, I almost forgot to fill the rear differential. Again, the forum provides and I got the good stuff. Motorcraft SAE 75W-85 with the XL3 Friction Modifier. My IRS was new from FFR and was filled maybe 2/3'rds of the way with fluid. I drained that and used 2 full quarts of product and was able to feel it at the top of the fill hole. I also used the Slippery Pete Quart sized fluid pump. Not a drop spilled and works in those awkward angles like the IRS fill hole.

I did make the mistake of cleaning out my Slipper Pete pump in the kitchen sink. The wife and kids came in and literally started gagging. I had no idea that smell would stay in the sink that long. LOL. Here's a couple of pics and you can buy the Slipper Pete pump here:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0853CNLYZ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/IMG_9423.JPG?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/IMG_9423.JPG?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/IMG_9425.JPG?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/IMG_9425.JPG?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

[cv2065]

You say you want a buttery smooth throttle experience? No build is complete without Mike Forte's mechanical throttle linkage. I had one in the last build and added one this time too. Some say the cost is prohibitive but there really aren't too many mods more effective than this one. Although I have the thicker firewall from FFMetals, I still installed the linkage into the upper half of the 2" tubing. I know some want the measurements of the brackets. Measured from the inner wall of the footbox, the first bracket was drilled at 1-5/8" and the second furthest one out drilled at 9-1/2". Mileage will vary here depending on your setup and where you drill your harness holes but should give someone a good point of reference.

Drilling the holes in the side of the footbox is a little challenging as it's on an angle, but if you have the brackets in place first then insert your rod and mark, it should make things easier. I finished the hole off with a rubber grommet. You just have to be sure that the rod can spin freely with zero friction and be certain that the arms don't hit on the inside of the footbox cover or any of the cables coming through the firewall. Once the engine is in, I'll pin the arms, secure the cables coming through the firewall a little better and finish up the linkage inside the box.

Those two red cylinders in the pic are my USB ports which are right next to the cutoff switch in the cockpit.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/(edited)_IMG_9563.png?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/(edited)_IMG_9563.png?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/(edited)_(edited)_IMG_9564.png?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/(edited)_(edited)_IMG_9564.png?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

[cv2065]

I extended the Kill Mat into the floorboards and tunnel, but because my dash 'workstation' is sitting on top of that, I don't have any pics right now. However, I did remember that the one place I used to get heat from in the last build was right at the door where the side pipes ran. The heat didn't blow in, but the radiant heat was certainly noticeable on hot days. I decided to insulate that part of the door on both sides. I used a 10 mil black tunnel heat shielding from Design Engineering. It's rated to 1,750 degrees. I may put some on the front of my footboxes but haven't decided yet. It's pretty stout but cuts fairly easily. I bought it here:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08774J7RL/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/IMG_9575.JPG?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/IMG_9575.JPG?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

[cv2065]

Well, I've gotten into the middle of wiring and I'm adding so many additional buttons and what not, it really takes some time to figure out what I'm doing. Thanks to everyone on the forum for looking at my diagrams and ensuring my car isn't a dumpster fire one day. :p

Engine bay was first and the 4-post cutoff switch was new territory for me. Again, something I'll use as somewhat of a theft deterrent, but in fairness, it looks cool too. I bought the Joe's Racing version:

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/joe-46216

I probably should have just gone with the 2-post, but it was already here so hooked it up. Again, with the help of the forum I was able to get this all sorted out. Diagram explains everything but the cable going down the driver side with mega fuse is the amplifier from the trunk area. I have it running straight to the battery instead of the distribution block. The water temp, oil temp and oil pressure gauge wires are also running down that stretch and pop out where I'll have plenty of slack to hook up once the engine is in. I didn't use any of the harness connections for these with the new Speedhut gauges. Everything is still loose and not completely locked down. I'll do that once I've got my proper lengths cut on the starter/battery/alternator wiring and additional terminals made and booted. Engine mounts are just hanging for now. I thought it came out pretty clean. Here's the diagram and pics. Hopefully it helps someone else.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/Screenshot_2024-09-30_211108.png?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/Screenshot_2024-09-30_211108.png?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/IMG_9562_sdLvfmMbSYoMEnec6mvq5p.JPG?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/IMG_9562_sdLvfmMbSYoMEnec6mvq5p.JPG?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/IMG_9560_kkYxTAfinfBNse341g7Jsf.JPG?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/IMG_9560_kkYxTAfinfBNse341g7Jsf.JPG?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/IMG_9561_2qtEseaDiQiniGEMrWnLfR.JPG?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/IMG_9561_2qtEseaDiQiniGEMrWnLfR.JPG?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/IMG_9565_m6yVsoFjDneS2YirYrgywZ.JPG?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/IMG_9565_m6yVsoFjDneS2YirYrgywZ.JPG?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

Speaking of engine mounts, if you have a DART block and the mounts run interference with the webbing on the block, if you don't want to grind your mounts or block, Mike Forte to the rescue. For a very reasonable charge, Mike will cut these and reweld them so that the fit right up to the block. He did this for me on the last build as well.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/IMG_0389.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/IMG_0389.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

[cv2065]

I started out with the dash in the house to wire up the gauges. That went pretty smooth. The new Speedhut gauges no longer use the daisy chain method, but they still hook all in sequence to three main WAGO connectors supplied by Russ Francis and terminate into the pigtail harness. Once completed there I had to move the operation out to the super cool garage to finish up with some permanent connections. Made a makeshift box workbench inside the car and went to work.

I'm using the buttons from Billet Automotive out of Australia. Super nice buttons in black aluminum with LED halos of your color choice. Nelson the owner is very responsive, and orders are sent within a week to the states. They do add some complexity to the dash in terms of wiring when compared to what FFR supplies, so took me some time to figure it all out. It's actually quite simple once you get rolling. Here are some wiring diagrams for what I'm assembling.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/d2de7738-511d-4f6e-916f-1aa2652b89f1.png?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/d2de7738-511d-4f6e-916f-1aa2652b89f1.png?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/Screenshot_2024-09-30_210738.png?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/Screenshot_2024-09-30_210738.png?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/6d099151-dec2-423a-88cc-06cf0632872c.png?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/6d099151-dec2-423a-88cc-06cf0632872c.png?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/Screenshot_2024-09-30_211137.png?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/Screenshot_2024-09-30_211137.png?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

And here's my current wiring situation. Permaseal Connectors...There is no substitute. We'll get there. :p

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/IMG_9569.JPG?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/IMG_9569.JPG?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/IMG_9570.JPG?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/IMG_9570.JPG?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

[Mike.Bray]

I used the billet buttons, they are very nice pieces. You can order them without the pigtails, they'll send you the connectors loose so you don't end up splicing a bunch of wires.

Here's a tip if you're using these, wire the switch lights to be on all the time. I have pushbuttons for my headlights and high beams and it's nice to be able to easily see it when it's dark to turn the headlights on.

[cv2065]

I used the billet buttons, they are very nice pieces. You can order them without the pigtails, they'll send you the connectors loose so you don't end up splicing a bunch of wires.

Here's a tip if you're using these, wire the switch lights to be on all the time. I have pushbuttons for my headlights and high beams and it's nice to be able to easily see it when it's dark to turn the headlights on.

Thanks Mike. I opted for the pigtails. I think the only two wires I don't use are the two middle white ones, except for the start switch. I was deciding which way to run the LED. My lights will be a pull switch and the high beams will be on the column (ie 427 turn signal). I'm running billet buttons for start, fan, hazards, auxiliary and cockpit lighting. Would look cool at night when illuminated and wouldn't eat up space on the IGN/ACC switch connector. I think I will just run all to my distribution block. Thanks!

[Mike.Bray]

Thanks Mike. I opted for the pigtails. I think the only two wires I don't use are the two middle white ones, except for the start switch. I was deciding which way to run the LED. My lights will be a pull switch and the high beams will be on the column (ie 427 turn signal). I'm running billet buttons for start, fan, hazards, auxiliary and cockpit lighting. Would look cool at night when illuminated and wouldn't eat up space on the IGN/ACC switch connector. I think I will just run all to my distribution block. Thanks!

What are you doing for the horn? I ended up using the button on my RT turn signal and I'm glad I did.

I can attest the Billet Buttons look very cool lit up at night.

[cv2065]

What are you doing for the horn? I ended up using the button on my RT turn signal and I'm glad I did.

I can attest the Billet Buttons look very cool lit up at night.

On the ie. 427 turn signal Frank has it wired where you just pull back on the turn signal stalk for the horn. Pretty cool setup and easy to grab similar to the RT version. I had the dash button for a horn on the last build and it was useless as I never could find it in time when I needed it.

[Blitzboy54]

On the ie. 427 turn signal Frank has it wired where you just pull back on the turn signal stalk for the horn. Pretty cool setup and easy to grab similar to the RT version. I had the dash button for a horn on the last build and it was useless as I never could find it in time when I needed it.

I’m going with Franks setup as well. Really excited about it. Used buttons on my last build. Really glad to have a stalk this time.

[cv2065]

I fitted and installed the bellhousing with the TOB and fork tonight. I've got hurricane Milton knocking on the garage door all night, but makes for cool working in the garage! :cool:

Mike Forte sent me a 2" pivot ball with lock washer and thick washer. I initially used the lock washer and only had about 1/2" of clearance from the fork to the lip of the bellhousing. I sent Mike a note and he said that it looked OK, but could probably do better, so I removed the bell, removed the lock washer and reinstalled. Now I have 3/4" of space between the fork and lip of the bellhousing when the TOB is just touching the fingers of the PP. Might get a fraction more once I button it all up. I think it's pretty much right where it needs to be unless someone sees otherwise. In fact, I looked back on an old thread from Karlos back in 2015. He had a similar setup to mine. Ironically, Karlos measured his adjustable pivot ball length threads and its exactly the same as I have in the fixed pivot ball at 1.293". the fork is also parallel and just slightly angled towards the trans as shown in the Centerforce diagram. If anyone has a 351W, the 2" pivot ball from Forte might just do the trick and take the guessing out of it.

By the way, every time you pull the BH off, you risk moving your dowel pins. I coated the pins and mounting holes lightly with grease and it went on and came off easily each time.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/abd0f594-7bbb-4f47-9aff-e71009e0a004.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/abd0f594-7bbb-4f47-9aff-e71009e0a004.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/488bb9e6-48de-406b-891c-a6d5652afecd.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/488bb9e6-48de-406b-891c-a6d5652afecd.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/bc8bfb62-7749-4e79-bffd-3817a6d8cf90.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/bc8bfb62-7749-4e79-bffd-3817a6d8cf90.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

[danmas]

I extended the Kill Mat into the floorboards and tunnel, but because my dash 'workstation' is sitting on top of that, I don't have any pics right now. However, I did remember that the one place I used to get heat from in the last build was right at the door where the side pipes ran. The heat didn't blow in, but the radiant heat was certainly noticeable on hot days. I decided to insulate that part of the door on both sides. I used a 10 mil black tunnel heat shielding from Design Engineering. It's rated to 1,750 degrees. I may put some on the front of my footboxes but haven't decided yet. It's pretty stout but cuts fairly easily. I bought it here:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08774J7RL/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/IMG_9575.JPG?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/IMG_9575.JPG?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

Every time you post I spend money. Got this last week. Thanks…. I guess? I kid. Great to follow along

[danmas]

I debated whether to put a charcoal filter on but decided to go for it. I didn't use the PVC route this time but used an 8AN fuel filter Kit with nipple. Simply unscrew the end, cut some scotch brite pads up and place at the bottom inlet to keep the charcoal in place and ventilate. Fill with charcoal and replace the top. I bought an 8AN nipple for the top hose and it even came with a mounting bracket. I did place on the driver's side of the car in the rear as the passenger side is just too congested with the fuel and brake line hangers. Here's the cannister, fitting and charcoal I used:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0967CXJXC?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CKBVL59Y?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01GN7ZQ70?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details

It's a thing of beauty that no one will see. The clamp on this makes it really easy to remove if the need arises in the future. It really wasn't far off in price from the PVC version. Vent tubing runs along the backside of the tank to the Big Bore fitting. I'll secure it with clamps after I install the drop trunk for the final time.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/IMG_9422.JPG?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/IMG_9422.JPG?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/IMG_9442.JPG?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/IMG_9442.JPG?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/(edited)_IMG_9421_wERaPavFbERwk3ZvVYsYJu.png?width =960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/(edited)_IMG_9421_wERaPavFbERwk3ZvVYsYJu.png?width =960&height=720&fit=bounds)

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/IMG_9443_xvmN9R1M6VoyttNQc1ufTH.JPG?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/IMG_9443_xvmN9R1M6VoyttNQc1ufTH.JPG?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

Got this. Nice quality carbon filter. Thanks….

[AquaDuck07]

Hey, John in NC. I am in the process of completing the wiring on my MK4 and a little stumped on the tail light wiring. Do you have any directions or pictures of how you wired yours? Not getting much help from FFR.
dippertj@gmail.com or (704) 806-1336

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

[cv2065]

A few more updates since the last post. Again, not moving as quickly as I would like but work has been hectic the last part of the year and have to squeeze some face time in with my son as he's been home from college. So let's see where I left off....

I had just finished up getting the bellhousing setup and have to say that the stock Ford bell that I used last time was much less of a headache than the Quicktime. All went well but between the dialing in the bell to the pivot ball length trial and error, the stock bell was much easier. But, aluminum vs. steel, ya never know and want the protection. So in getting ready to mate the trans and engine block, I cut some 7/16-14 threaded rod to help pull the trans evenly into the bellhousing. I had the trans strapped to my trans jack which worked perfectly! I centered the clutch fork and held up with a string and guided it right in putting some pressure on the clutch fork with a c-clamp. Put a VERY light coat of grease on the input shaft. I must have had this thing dialed in perfectly as the transmission went right in like butter with zero issue. Oh, and don't forget the QT fitment ring on the trans input shaft! It would suck to get it all together and forget to put that in. I used the silver one, not the gold.

Secured with two bolts then pulled the threaded rod and installed the last two. Torqued down to 45 foot/lbs. The QT instructions state to torque 35-45 ft/lbs, and didn't matter which value you selected as long as the torque values on the bell to the block were the same as trans to the bell to maintain 'parallelism'. So I certainly wanted to maintain that! :cool:

I've got the Forte mid-shift kit on my TKX. Man that thing looks COOL!!

https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/c03d49a3-5f87-4577-bf64-259e32837ec3.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/c03d49a3-5f87-4577-bf64-259e32837ec3.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/215feae5-a4c3-4780-880f-8f1077e1e9a8.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/215feae5-a4c3-4780-880f-8f1077e1e9a8.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/1e85537c-0b41-4796-bfb6-7a9094f9f2f2.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/1e85537c-0b41-4796-bfb6-7a9094f9f2f2.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/1f5144e9-0675-4d2e-9c25-8e3ed639a504.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/1f5144e9-0675-4d2e-9c25-8e3ed639a504.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

Speaking of the trans, when I attempted to run through my gears before stabbing into the car, mine were jacked up from shipping, so had to readjust the shifter levers. First pic is the how they were coming out of the box, second is them back in line like they are supposed to be and enable manual shifting through all gears. I just used a small screwdriver to move them. The top of the box has a molded gasket in the cover. It looked good so just cleaned up the mating surface and reinstalled.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/1818445b-bc87-49d8-b926-b77728553b65.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/1818445b-bc87-49d8-b926-b77728553b65.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/953721d1-723a-483f-b457-4a7a6e6f40ba.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/953721d1-723a-483f-b457-4a7a6e6f40ba.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

By the way, if you really want to understand how these transmission parts go together, Paul Cangelosi from 5-speeds.com that has done many videos on a variety of transmissions which has greatly helped me over the years, especially when I rebuilt my Muncie 4 speed. Here's one on the TKO (similar to TKX).

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8YBeFZzv83Y

[cv2065]

Next up was the Forte hydraulic clutch. I wouldn't do a build without this. It's a little expensive but well worth the money and if the slave cylinder ever goes out, it's very easy to change out. Might grab me an extra slave just to have in my 'road' kit. Getting the rod cut to the right length is key and thought I could go off of my last build, but that was wrong and cut my rod too short. No big deal, just ran down to ACE Hardware and got another 5/16-24, 4" bolt and cut the head off and back in business.

Getting this right is simple once you get the hang of it as it really doesn't come with instructions but Mike Forte is always there if you need him. Bottom out the pushrod w/cap into the slave cylinder and then measure to flush on the cylinder with the TOB against the clutch. Add in another 1/8" for TOB clearance, mark and cut the rod. I added a little grease to the cap where the rod sits. I also adjusted the clutch fork bracket to where it was aligned on the horizontal plane with the MC and locked it down. I would have liked to have put two bolts into that bracket but wasn't able to. I'm sure it will hold it with the locking nut I added. I added the length of my rod after I cut it below, but as I mentioned, this might get you in the ballpark but it seems different for every build. I torqued the bolts to 30 ft/lbs. The Forte aluminum bracket is beefy, but don't want to strip anything out. Should hold fine with a little blue loctite.

I'll add the hydraulic clutch line later once the engine is installed. I just may trade out my Wilwood clutch MC for a Tilton. Thanks Mike Bray! :p


https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/4391486a-4841-4ea8-92a7-ee2678d33b34.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/4391486a-4841-4ea8-92a7-ee2678d33b34.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/406a9514-4ae0-4b97-b21a-b9f0e53d2d08.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/406a9514-4ae0-4b97-b21a-b9f0e53d2d08.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/7772dcb5-e928-41ca-bc70-480463fa6731.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/7772dcb5-e928-41ca-bc70-480463fa6731.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

New favorite grease!
https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/503fc8b3-8e11-48a7-bd93-1f403103db52.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/503fc8b3-8e11-48a7-bd93-1f403103db52.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

[cv2065]

Finally put the car on the ground so I could get my IRS axle nuts tightened down. I've been delaying this as I was himming and hawing about which axle nuts I was going to use. I ended up using the current Ford version which is the CCPZ-3B477-G instead of the ones I got with my IRS parts. Those were virtually impossible to find aftermarket unless you purchased IRS axles, so went with a part that's readily available. Plus, the ones that come with the IRS are pinch nuts and from what I've read, can damage the spindle threads when coming off if you ever need to replace. The new Ford version has some kind of green thread locker and are 32mm, not 36mm.

Torqued them to 98 ft/lbs and then a 45 degree turn. On my last build, I couldn't get all the way to 45 degrees, maybe 38-40. This time I was able to get all the way. Not sure if it had to do with the nut or not, but put a witness mark on the nut and good to go. I'll check them after go-karting. Speaking of which, I also bought some axle hub locking nuts that I'll install right at the end of the build. They go on like any nut and then torque to 100 ft/lbs. to double nut and keep everything in place. I got them here:

https://www.opmustang.com/store/p426/Axle_Hub_Jam_Locking_Nut_-_Rear_2015-2023_S550_Mustang.html#/

Notice the extra long, knurled lug nuts. YES!!!

https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/cc0f9570-6825-4749-822f-561d8c0416d0.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/cc0f9570-6825-4749-822f-561d8c0416d0.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

[cv2065]

Getting everything ready and noticed that the orange plug in my TKX was smashed into a few pieces that went all up into the tail shaft from UPS man handling and storing it on its end during shipping. I had a hard time getting it all out with some needle nose pliers. The hard plastic ripped my seal and had to install a new one. Come to find out that there are seals with a metal shroud and then there are all rubber ones with metal inserts that come from Tremec. I went with the same one that Tremec sent as they are very easy to get locally. Went to NAPA first and they gave me a metal one that didn't fit, so next to O'Reillys and was good to go. The Tremec part (TCSJ11277) is also under National part #710431.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/bd04d384-d138-4497-bc4e-68fec7d44dd4.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/bd04d384-d138-4497-bc4e-68fec7d44dd4.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

Seal removed with a gasket remover tool and popped back in. You don't want to scratch the sides to avoid leaks, so there is a tool for everything! One thing I did notice when the seal was out is that the tail shaft metal sleeve is jagged on the edges. This seems to be 'normal' and was told that is where the tranny fluid is allowed to flow. Not sure about that but ran it by my man Paul Cangelosi and he said no worries just to lightly file down any burs before installation of the new seal.

Once installed, I twisted the output shaft by hand and it turned so smooth like butter!

https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/2a11d227-818b-4f63-b9ed-3898b7b32880.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/2a11d227-818b-4f63-b9ed-3898b7b32880.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/fc5df752-a5e6-48f7-a46e-898d57149217.png?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/fc5df752-a5e6-48f7-a46e-898d57149217.png?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

Seal Tapping Tool (2" plumbing coupling)

https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/1165483f-cd94-45c2-9581-165e819a24d6.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/1165483f-cd94-45c2-9581-165e819a24d6.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

[cv2065]

I've been working quite a bit on the electrical and just about have everything wired, except for the turn signal from ie. 427 and the MSD box. Just have to get it all cleaned up and looking nice. Here's a nice side view of the effort after I put the car on wheel dollies which I got from HF and they work great. What's nice about them is that they are angled and support the tire in a cradle. Might help with any longer term flat spots on the tires.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/b57d1652-71af-4d69-8c16-565b1ec4d976.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/b57d1652-71af-4d69-8c16-565b1ec4d976.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/8817e14a-8edd-4122-98dd-b62e4570c453.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/8817e14a-8edd-4122-98dd-b62e4570c453.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

MSD box is on the passenger footbox. I used a Pertronix distributor last time, so no box. This time I'll have a box and heard some don't like them and mixed reviews on reliability. Either way, wanted to make it accessible. Roush sent me the Street Fire box. Although it got good reviews, I didn't like how the harness is not removable from the box, so if something went wrong, you literally have to disconnect all of the wiring. To future proof a bit, I went with the MSD Digital 6AL, which does have a removable harness plug in the event the box has an issue, it can be swapped out with little effort. It also has a rev limiter built into the box which is pretty cool. The vibration resistant Master Blaster 2 coil will go to the front side of the engine on the passenger side.

This is the one I have: https://www.holley.com/products/ignition/ignition_boxes/street/parts/64253

https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/690cfde3-7ebd-4fd1-957a-c7e16a307aed.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/690cfde3-7ebd-4fd1-957a-c7e16a307aed.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

[cv2065]

Engine Time!! I decided it was time to get this in. As mentioned, my son is home for the holiday so perfect timing! He's almost 20 now and he helped with the last engine install when he was 14. Didn't remember a thing...LOL.

Install was uneventful and took about 30 minutes. I was on the lift and my son was guiding. I put the car up on jack stands in the back and on locked roller wheels in the front. Perfect height to get the engine crane legs underneath the car. Armed with a great leveler and we proceeded. You can get the one I used here:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001DKHUUO/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

All the way up, over the front cross beam and then 60 degrees nose down. Then down, level off, down, level off, until we were in. I used a jack to support the trans from the rear and ensured that it was over the 4" tube without damaging the seal. The engine mounts were on the engine but I left them just slightly loose so that they would go into the mounts a little easier. The passenger side threaded stud and pin went right in. The driver's side was a little off so tapped with a piece of wood and snapped right in. Tightened the engine mounts up to 50 ft/lbs. I'm leaving the frame mounting nuts loose until I have the driveshaft in and pinion set just in case I need to move anything around. On the last build I had to remove the starter during the install as there was some interference, so left it off again. It probably would have fit and is kind of a pain to install after the fact. but such is life.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/0ca20b85-64f8-42d1-8821-d0de959d4ec4.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/0ca20b85-64f8-42d1-8821-d0de959d4ec4.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/0b204daf-a59b-4ecd-96f2-892362f20bf6.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/0b204daf-a59b-4ecd-96f2-892362f20bf6.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/a2433eb9-1e33-4457-92fd-2dcbfac8e886.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/a2433eb9-1e33-4457-92fd-2dcbfac8e886.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/ff1fce9c-c7c0-4dc1-b957-b521cb8f655e.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds[

[URL=https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/cedf082f-6fc7-45c3-aa13-daeaf679bfdb.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds]https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/cedf082f-6fc7-45c3-aa13-daeaf679bfdb.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/ff1fce9c-c7c0-4dc1-b957-b521cb8f655e.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/3ab5c236-7af3-4290-90ea-d0de454c7bf8.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/3ab5c236-7af3-4290-90ea-d0de454c7bf8.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

And a blast from the past:

https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/d388d5d9-62dd-4240-9f5d-a1f0f39feaf1.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/d388d5d9-62dd-4240-9f5d-a1f0f39feaf1.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

[cv2065]

After the engine install, I did have a little bout with the A frame and aligning the trans mount bolts as they were about 1/8" off center. I had read that you could flip over the A frame, but that's not possible, at least with the present MKIV version, as its only designed to install one way. So I lifted the engine about an inch or so, lifted the trans up with a floor jack about an inch, then had my son pull the tail shaft to the driver's side while I let the engine back down. Worked perfectly and centered the trans mount bolt holes.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/cb157d6a-8b46-471b-acc0-786ad2392a04.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/cb157d6a-8b46-471b-acc0-786ad2392a04.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

A couple of nice bonuses that I wasn't sure of until install. First is the Forte mid shift kit placement. It fit perfectly in the tunnel where no cutting of the cross tubes is necessary. I ran through the gears with zero issues. YES!!

https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/67047919-2bad-4164-9305-c125231d30fb.png?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/67047919-2bad-4164-9305-c125231d30fb.png?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

Second bonus was the oil pan. I have the Canton 15-690 and it is just above the 4" tube, so no interference there either. I'll see the final spot once I get my pinion situated, but looks great so far. I won't have to trim the QT bellhousing lip either. This is the non SFI version, so that might back a difference.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/337ac99a-b614-4bff-976a-658fee06e3e2.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/337ac99a-b614-4bff-976a-658fee06e3e2.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

I put the driveshaft adaptor in and torqued the bolts down to 41 ft/lbs with red loctite per the manual. FFR manual states that there is a yellow zinc version (manual) and a clear aluminum version (automatic), but this is the only one I received and it fits perfectly. Seems like the manual needs to be updated. So now we are ready for the driveshaft install, but I'm going to work on the radiator first.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/3865c577-6e1b-45c6-8be0-eeba0ff1b100.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/3865c577-6e1b-45c6-8be0-eeba0ff1b100.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

[Higgybulin]

Looking good man!! If you updated your thread a little more often, you wouldn't have to stay up till after 2AM catching everyone up!!
Have a good holiday!
Higgy

[cv2065]

Looking good man!! If you updated your thread a little more often, you wouldn't have to stay up till after 2AM catching everyone up!!
Have a good holiday!
Higgy

Yeah no doubt Higgy! Merry Christmas Bud!

[Blitzboy54]

Looks so good! I can tell this is going to be aesthetically just beautiful. What wheels did you go with? Are those Konig?

I love the direction of this one.

Merry Christmas Chris.

[cv2065]

Looks so good! I can tell this is going to be aesthetically just beautiful. What wheels did you go with? Are those Konig?

I love the direction of this one.

Merry Christmas Chris.

Thanks Chris! Likewise. Can't wait to see how your build unfolds. It's going to be a stunner! You'll probably be driving before I am. :cool:

Those wheels are BC Forged (KL17).

Merry Christmas to you as well!

[cv2065]

Sometimes I forget how time consuming some of this stuff is. I used all of Breeze's radiator upgrades including the upper hinge, lower support and tubing brackets. First off, I wanted to see if my radiator support was level. Yep, looked good to me but as has been said before, the angle is off by a little less than 1/2". I saw that in full glory when I was installing the lower radiator support brackets.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/554ce7a9-8233-4ca3-9021-d4982dbabb47.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/554ce7a9-8233-4ca3-9021-d4982dbabb47.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

Second was to get the hinge installed. The shipping box with foam was perfect to keep it off the ground and enable me to rivet, screw or whatever else I needed to do. To satisfy my OCD, which I didn't do the last time, I made sure to drill my larger bolt holes at the same time I was laying out the rivets so they all meshed together somewhat in spacing. Not like anyone is every really going to see it again, but that's what we do.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/32d2e538-10a0-4746-926a-2585e72f2aed.png?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/32d2e538-10a0-4746-926a-2585e72f2aed.png?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

I then cut off the 2"x3" pieces from the frame with my cutoff wheel, sanded down the remainder with my grinder and then painted to match the frame. The Rustoleum Satin Black from Lowes does a great job at matching the FFR black powder coat. Get everything covered up, especially the wheels and engine!

https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/efc18c6f-9d0a-4844-800a-8af7e8236ac9.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/efc18c6f-9d0a-4844-800a-8af7e8236ac9.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

Then time to install. Drilled pilot holes into the piano flange before mounting into the 3/4" radiator mounting tube. Makes things a little easier to align. Then supported with my jack and clamped evenly to the top.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/dfd5e5b2-8ac2-4b3c-83bd-d5ecb626c38c.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/dfd5e5b2-8ac2-4b3c-83bd-d5ecb626c38c.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

Used the jack to pull up the radiator to 58 degrees (Horizontal) as I'm using the Replica Parts nose metal. That looks SWEET!!! You can see the angle of my finder. If you put the finder on its side, then you are measuring vertical and the numbers won't make sense. I actually ended up with 58.4 degrees, or something in that ballpark. I then secured it with 4 evenly spaced 1/4-20 bolts, but I bolted them all the way through instead of using rivnuts or tapping the 3/4" tube like Breeze recommends.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/af0ba9c2-c9d3-4a60-a9a0-129462251604.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/af0ba9c2-c9d3-4a60-a9a0-129462251604.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

I installed the lower radiator support. One thing I noted was that the support brackets were a little uneven from side to side (about .4") due to the 'unique' angle of the radiator frame. I tried to use my tape measure to see exactly where the angle comes from but read something about Mustang donor builds as the reason. I don't recall even seeing it on my last build, but I'm sure it was there. Then we have the finished product. I still have to pin the radiator at the bottom, but it's pretty much a done deal.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/ee914088-608a-435c-9222-62c7ebaa73fa.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/ee914088-608a-435c-9222-62c7ebaa73fa.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

[cv2065]

Ah, one of my favorite upgrades!! I had already drilled for my support brackets and sidewall hole for the stainless rod, so really just needed to measure out the clearances and cut the rods to length. Again, my measurements from my last build were not accurate on this one, so did everything from scratch.

First step was to enlarge the RT gas pedal actuator hole to fit the 1/4-28 eyelet mount. I got this version of RT's pedal from TJ at Mountain Metalworks and it's a nice piece. I also have the Breeze gas pedal pad to match the Wilwood ones for the clutch and brake pedals. It's small and once you install to one side, there is PLENTY of room between the sidewall and pedal, even after insulation and carpet.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/8b6695d8-026b-420e-8d19-1265385e1aaa.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/8b6695d8-026b-420e-8d19-1265385e1aaa.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/70fe3b93-d33f-4b8f-a4b1-80987912be2d.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/70fe3b93-d33f-4b8f-a4b1-80987912be2d.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

After measuring the inside and outside actuating rods, it was time to cut, drill and tap! I used my cutoff wheel and grinder to get to the right size. The inside rod was ~9.5" and the outside rod going to the carb was ~11.75". There's plenty of adjustment as the pivot eye has very long threads. I still have to pin the arms, paint the rod and tighten everything up. I also may get a bushing and move the accelerator arm to the top hole as it makes a HUGE difference in the way the gas pedal feels. Feather touch where the lower hole that I have it in now is a little heavier. Overall, this is 95% completed.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/a7696099-b9a2-42c1-b81c-856046b8910c.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/a7696099-b9a2-42c1-b81c-856046b8910c.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/c8d56bd7-a0f3-4e40-91c3-fc95e07fd5e4.png?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/c8d56bd7-a0f3-4e40-91c3-fc95e07fd5e4.png?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/924ab29d-b541-42ac-834a-cdfc1d2f652f.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/924ab29d-b541-42ac-834a-cdfc1d2f652f.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

By the way, if you need an idea on how to hold the tubing while you drill and tap it, I just used the chuck of another drill to hold it and my vice to stabilize it with aluminum jaws and it never moved with zero damage to the tubing! #3 drill bit and 1/4-28 tap.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/3c0dcf8a-74e9-4889-b9b3-4ef8b0b43be9.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/3c0dcf8a-74e9-4889-b9b3-4ef8b0b43be9.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

[cv2065]

I was not really looking forward to this struggle as it can be somewhat of an aggravation for many builders, but NOT TODAY!!! :D

I have the trans mount spacer kit from Forte. He gives you three in 1/4" increments. I did an initial eyeball and installed all 3 for a 3/4" lift. I haven't done the pinion angle yet, so it was just an initial guess, but I will say that I needed to remove these to get the driveshaft in. So don't do what I did. Anyhow, once those were out, I coated the yoke with some trans fluid and literally inserted it within 15 seconds! That made my night! Came in from the driver's side and if you really look at the driveshaft, there is only one configuration where you can get the yoke straight on with the rear of the transmission. Once you know what to look for, it's a light bulb moment and I wonder how I struggled with it so much last time.

I made sure to use the four M10-1.50 cap screw bolts in the kit that are 20mm and not the 25mm version. They fit flush and will tighten to 70 ft/lbs with blue loctite. And for reference, I went to the Loctite website and they recommend blue loctite for bolts from 6mm all the way to 19mm. I didn't know that it was for bolts that large.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/59cd8d97-2ca1-48c6-9ae1-75f365bfa657.png?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/59cd8d97-2ca1-48c6-9ae1-75f365bfa657.png?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

I had to return my starter and am awaiting a replacement. Tomorrow I'm going to get my engine electrical tied up.

[Blitzboy54]

Looks really clean. Seeing the theme start to tie itself together. Car show quality all the way.

It’s crazy how fast the kids grow up. Went from packed weekends of sports and events to almost empty nest overnight.

[cv2065]

So today was one of those "I thought I was going to one thing but got lost doing other things" days. All the small stuff I did today was not as exciting as others but had to be done. First, I went to torque my driveshaft bolts and had planned on torquing from the top through the tunnel as you can't get to the bolts from underneath with a torque wrench. So I would be torquing the bolts, rotating the rear tires, torquing, rotating the rear tires, etc. until completed, so now that it's all hooked up to the transmission, I thought I would get the tranny filled with fluid beforehand.

Mr. Forte sent me 3 bottles of Pennzoil Synchromesh with my TKX. I'm not sure who puts these plugs into the Tremec transmissions but they must be herculean as these things were in TIGHT! Almost thought they were reversed threaded or something. They are 3/8" plugs so used the end of my 3/8" ratchet as well as a socket and extension on the bottom handle to give me some leverage. Finally popped out and then got out my Slippery Pete!! This little pump is awesome. I was able to snake it through the top and into the hole. It has a little catch that keeps it in the hole. 10 minutes of pumping fluid into the hole and all done with zero mess! Thread sealer on the plug and back it went using the Goodntite method. No leaks so far - KNOCK on wood. If you want your own Slippery Pete, you can get one here:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0853CNLYZ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/35c52b0c-451d-49a5-8c0e-29b99f41b3bc.png?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/35c52b0c-451d-49a5-8c0e-29b99f41b3bc.png?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/4151c276-79cf-4579-ae7e-4d070be7394f.png?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/4151c276-79cf-4579-ae7e-4d070be7394f.png?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)


My next adventure was getting my tunnel top cut for the shifter. Feels so good to have all of that installed and locked down! After I marked the location of the stick shift from the bottom on my tunnel cover I used a 2.5" hole saw to cut it up. The beauty ring around my shifter is anodized black and a Backdraft piece. Beautiful! It's 4" round so plenty of room to mark for my rivnuts. Cut and put into place. Perfect! Do I do any kind of cup holder or tray? Not sure yet....

https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/89d2c8f0-c04e-4f1f-b7f3-37ea3c156da9.png?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/89d2c8f0-c04e-4f1f-b7f3-37ea3c156da9.png?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/ceb24cbe-db90-4ead-a697-b2a152507bf2.png?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/ceb24cbe-db90-4ead-a697-b2a152507bf2.png?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/4701607c-d588-4d47-8f68-30f286098aa2.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/4701607c-d588-4d47-8f68-30f286098aa2.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

I did get a little power action in this afternoon by mounting my MSD Vibration Resistant Coil. I bought a single screw black holder which was just ever so slightly too big, so I also bought a small roll of 1/16" thick, 1" wide rubber that has adhesive and mounted some on the inside of the bracket. Worked like a champ and its new home is on the passenger side attached to the head. I would have preferred the driver's side but the PS pulley takes up that space. Bracket and rubber tape are available here:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0847LFGCR?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0C6LKSMZ2?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title

https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/59af34ef-d5f6-438d-9052-f04c35adc713.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/59af34ef-d5f6-438d-9052-f04c35adc713.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

I rounded out the day with setting my ride height as I'm planning on having the same guy come out next week that does mobile alignments. He's got a laser computer setup and did an awesome job last time around. Ride height was set to 4" from floor to tube in the front and 4.5" in the back.

Maybe tomorrow I'll get to finishing up my engine electrical!

[PNWTim]

All progress is progress as they say. I have that same pump and have used it for rear ends, transmissions and lower units on outboards, works great.

[danmas]

I really appreciate the way you detail out things in your threads. You have saved me hours of frustration and also given me some really good ideas. Thank you.

[cv2065]

Finished drilling out my console. Wasn't sure about the cup holders but remembered how much I used them. Not so much for drinks, as a typical bottle won't fit up there height wise, but just for keys, change, or small food items. I did buy a cup phone holder that should fit in there easily as well. The 2" coupler that I used to install the tail shaft seal was the exact size I needed. Again, the drill press is invaluable and everything fit perfectly.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/c2e02517-4866-4e15-ac2e-85d0a2165263.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/c2e02517-4866-4e15-ac2e-85d0a2165263.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

So I had to swing back and pin the arms on my Forte mechanical throttle linkage before I forgot. During the last build, I tried to do this by hand and had a crazy time penetrating the hardened steel of the rod. In fact, I don't think I ever got all the way through and left as is. This time I marked the arm/rod alignment with a marker before removal, then took it slow with the drill press, carbide bit and a little oil and made quick work of it. I put the pin all the way through the arm in the engine bay and left it a little long on the arm in the footbox for easy removal just in case. Either one can be pulled out with a little effort but they are in with just enough friction that they'll stay in. I used 18-8 stainless steel pins from Mcmaster Carr (3/32" diameter and 1-1/4" long), item #92373A152. Also, if you need more of the 1/4-28 black oxide thin flanged locking nuts that Forte sends out with his linkage, you can also pick them up at Mcmaster Carr, item #90949A018.

If you also look close enough, you'll see that I made a guard for each arm of the mechanical throttle out of 1/16" aluminum and epoxied them on to the bracket. They are super light/thin so no difference in operation and should the throttle arm drop for any reason, I have this safeguard to keep it in place until I can properly secure it. I did one for both outside and inside arms.

Added the return spring and bracket, then painted with my favorite black gloss epoxy and done.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/ca8d9582-6259-4158-90ad-1f3fef5cd1df.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/ca8d9582-6259-4158-90ad-1f3fef5cd1df.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/83e1d41f-b0bc-4940-929d-803cb6f3ec5c.png?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/83e1d41f-b0bc-4940-929d-803cb6f3ec5c.png?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/fdbbbd9a-ae10-412b-be07-14f691a8de49.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/fdbbbd9a-ae10-412b-be07-14f691a8de49.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/4c6a16c8-c50c-48d3-8c7a-24017f2aede8.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/4c6a16c8-c50c-48d3-8c7a-24017f2aede8.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)


I needed to get my radiator fan hooked up as I was waiting on a few things. First off, I needed to re-route my front harness as I didn't want the harness hanging below the radiator. I routed this across the top radiator channel last time and did the same here. It takes a few hours to unravel the harness, pull the wires and cut/shorten/lengthen correctly so that it makes a natural turn across the radiator, but again the operation was successful and looks great. My horn wires came up a bit short but will lengthen them.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/50f5fca9-c981-4dc5-acb4-67169d6fd39a.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/50f5fca9-c981-4dc5-acb4-67169d6fd39a.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/e48bbabf-d3a2-4a7e-bf11-37df76dcb217.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/e48bbabf-d3a2-4a7e-bf11-37df76dcb217.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

[cv2065]

I upgraded to the 16" Flex-A-Lite Wave Electric Fan (#FLX-105390). I didn't have any issues with the stock fan on the last build except that it was really noisy, especially when I shut the car off. I read that this one is a bit quieter and is a 3K CFM fan which will be appreciated during the hot FL summers. I originally bought the Flex-A-Lite mounting feet (FLX-123218) but they don't play well with the Breeze shroud, so left them off (for now). The Flex-A-Lite fan came with 12-gauge wires from the motor. It's a little hard to find a pig tail in that size of wire but found this one that is rated at 30A. The fan is rated at 18.5A, so should be fine.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0858Y6FFV?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title&th=1

I was looking for the best way to route the wiring, which is where the feet came into play. Instead of zip tying to the fan itself, I installed the feet on one side with a little epoxy and they made perfect secure points for the fan harness to naturally run down the side where there is no stress on the connection. I also used nuts and bolts to secure the fan to the shroud instead of nutserts. I figured that its impervious to any kind of vibration, or nutsert spinning which would really suck, and not that much more work to remove should I need to.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/d49aa622-1459-42f9-9c03-592c815b1311.png?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/d49aa622-1459-42f9-9c03-592c815b1311.png?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/6393334f-fd93-42f3-8d7d-b7efc7c01a72.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/6393334f-fd93-42f3-8d7d-b7efc7c01a72.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/50f5fca9-c981-4dc5-acb4-67169d6fd39a.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/50f5fca9-c981-4dc5-acb4-67169d6fd39a.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/e48bbabf-d3a2-4a7e-bf11-37df76dcb217.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/e48bbabf-d3a2-4a7e-bf11-37df76dcb217.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/4602f09e-816b-4368-a9f2-6d7cd3bead7f.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/4602f09e-816b-4368-a9f2-6d7cd3bead7f.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

[cv2065]

I had originally selected the larger, 2-quart Canton overflow tank but it was just too large to fit above my brake lines, even when I pushed it out from the passenger side F-panel where it was to be mounted. I sent it back and settled for the 1.25-quart size. I think this will be fine and it fits perfectly. Funny how they were the same price from Summit, but Canton is sure proud of their billet tank caps.

I used some 3/4" aluminum spacers that I had laying around originally to space it out from the F-panel but it was not very stable, so took those out and used 1/2" SS fender washers which did the trick. Used a level to ensure it was good to go. Drilled the holes and secured with nylon lock nuts and bolts. I used a 5/16" hose barb x 1/2" NPT Male swivel for the fitting. This just cleared my brake lines. You can find it here:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0828V44MQ?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title&th=1
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/CTR-80-200
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/ctr-81-236

I will most likely have this powder coated black when I do my next run.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/20ce4483-d51b-4ff6-8a3e-d2f08ffecdf0.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/20ce4483-d51b-4ff6-8a3e-d2f08ffecdf0.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/2b010377-46fa-41c8-84f1-288b6437496d.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/2b010377-46fa-41c8-84f1-288b6437496d.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/70edbc29-8cec-4ff2-9a99-270dfb56744c.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/70edbc29-8cec-4ff2-9a99-270dfb56744c.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

[cv2065]

I had my tubes powder coated a while back and was finally able to get them installed. The top tube came from Boig and the bottom came from Breeze. These fit up nicely and secured with black worm clamps. I had to cut an inch off of the 90-degree rubber hose at the top to ensure that it clears the hood as it is way too high as is. Mark from Breeze also has a bracket that secures the lower tube to the x-frame. It has a curved piece that looks to be 3D printed, which enables it to hug right up to the tube. Totally worth the investment there versus having the lower tube hang out, ready to get hit.

I'll be adding a new radiator cap as that one doesn't match everything else. I'm also thinking about adding some silicone black hoses to match the gloss pipes, but I hear that they have a tendency to leak? Might try them anyway. I didn't have all of my hose clamps on at the time of picture, but they are now secured with black clamps.

URL=https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/66e329bd-e6ec-4857-9942-b3eed865e486.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds]https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/66e329bd-e6ec-4857-9942-b3eed865e486.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds[/URL]

https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/5fcd8a82-f7cf-4780-bc27-c502c13576cb.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/5fcd8a82-f7cf-4780-bc27-c502c13576cb.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/2eec3ca8-0221-41cd-9a1f-9d9c08088c0f.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/2eec3ca8-0221-41cd-9a1f-9d9c08088c0f.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

[cv2065]

I had 4" speakers in the doors the last build and they sounded terrible. Not that I'm looking for audiophile quality, but these were really bad. I decided to add some 5.25" speakers to the trans tunnel this time and so far they came out great. I wasn't sure about the clearance to the transmission or hydraulic clutch slave cylinder, but if you mount up a bit higher from the floor there are no issues.

To help with the clearance, I did use 1/2" speaker spacers which matched up to the speaker perfectly. The speaker wire pigtails that come with the speakers are 22GA and really hard to work with when you have 16GA coming from the amp. Again, 16GA speaker wire pigtails are hard to find, but did and you can see the components I used below:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01EZWFNKA?ref_=ppx_hzsearch_conn_dt_b_fed_asin_ti tle_6
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09WH5VFY9?ref_=ppx_hzsearch_conn_dt_b_fed_asin_ti tle_1
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09CY4T6ZK?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09CYQLG49?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title&th=1

https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/f6d0f460-6ea6-4d7e-b68b-75c7b6f8c991.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/f6d0f460-6ea6-4d7e-b68b-75c7b6f8c991.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/e3ce7607-329f-417a-a766-a5e26a825554.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/e3ce7607-329f-417a-a766-a5e26a825554.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

I also finished up the insulation on the trans tunnel and front cockpit area. While I was at it, I thought I'd get some shots for the insurance, as I will need it for go carting soon and also needed it to secure a plate. It's all coming together and looks great with the seats sitting in there! I won't be able to secure until I fit the body for the first time.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/46217cfa-6910-40a0-be69-d9fbc01f5a1a.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/46217cfa-6910-40a0-be69-d9fbc01f5a1a.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/e701fb00-2976-49f2-8da1-0368b917d471.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/e701fb00-2976-49f2-8da1-0368b917d471.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/26338f94-fb9d-4751-b1cd-c86c2547905a.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/26338f94-fb9d-4751-b1cd-c86c2547905a.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/de93ccff-1f68-427e-b70b-27c3397b5950.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/de93ccff-1f68-427e-b70b-27c3397b5950.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/3758c338-0913-495a-82ac-72033e96e8ac.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/3758c338-0913-495a-82ac-72033e96e8ac.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

I'm about 98% done with the cockpit and engine wiring and will post some pics of that over the weekend.

[Higgybulin]

Looking good brother!!
Higgy

[Blitzboy54]

Looking nasty in all the best ways. Love the color themes here.

[Mike.Bray]

I had my tubes powder coated a while back and was finally able to get them installed. The top tube came from Boig and the bottom came from Breeze. These fit up nicely and secured with black worm clamps. I had to cut an inch off of the 90-degree rubber hose at the top to ensure that it clears the hood as it is way too high as is. Mark from Breeze also has a bracket that secures the lower tube to the x-frame. It has a curved piece that looks to be 3D printed, which enables it to hug right up to the tube. Totally worth the investment there versus having the lower tube hang out, ready to get hit.

I'll be adding a new radiator cap as that one doesn't match everything else. I'm also thinking about adding some silicone black hoses to match the gloss pipes, but I hear that they have a tendency to leak? Might try them anyway. I didn't have all of my hose clamps on at the time of picture, but they are now secured with black clamps.

URL=https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/66e329bd-e6ec-4857-9942-b3eed865e486.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds]https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/66e329bd-e6ec-4857-9942-b3eed865e486.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds[/URL]

https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/5fcd8a82-f7cf-4780-bc27-c502c13576cb.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/5fcd8a82-f7cf-4780-bc27-c502c13576cb.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/2eec3ca8-0221-41cd-9a1f-9d9c08088c0f.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/2eec3ca8-0221-41cd-9a1f-9d9c08088c0f.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

I have the same setup with the Boig upper hose setup and Breeze lower, it's a nice setup. I had to cut the 90 degree rubber hose also.

You might look at the Gates compression clamps to blend with your black out look.

https://www.imagecoast.com/images/MichaelBray1/20241215173841.jpg

Yes, coolant will leach through silicone hoses so you might think about this.

[cc2Arider]

Looks really nice, Chris!

You mentioned Boig upper tube...did you purchase it a while back? The last time I looked at the Boig website, they weren't making the upper tube for a SBF... :(

Craig C

[cv2065]

Looks really nice, Chris!

You mentioned Boig upper tube...did you purchase it a while back? The last time I looked at the Boig website, they weren't making the upper tube for a SBF... :(

Craig C

Hey Craig - I’m not sure if they still sell it. I bought mine last year some time and I only see headers on their new website at Tubular Automotive.

[BadAsp427]

Looking Awesome Chad.... Beautiful!!!

[cv2065]

Looking Awesome Chad.... Beautiful!!!

Thanks dude!

[cv2065]

I've had a few goals over the past couple of weeks, and that was to finish the electrical (Ugh!), power steering hoses/reservoir, install a Tilton clutch MC and fit my headers and get them ready for ceramic coating.

First off is the electrical. Not much to say here except that this was much more involved than my last build with the custom buttons and gauges, start button with keyed start and 3 relays, USB ports, separate turn/bright indicators, cutoff switch, BT amp straight to battery, tunnel speakers, MSD box as well as i.e. 427's custom turn signal, which has been wired out but not hooked up yet. The 3 dedicated gauge engine bay sensors also added some fun versus easily connecting through the harness before. All the while adding a little slack back into each connection, enough to pull the dash away.

I've learned a lot on the way and thank the forum for handing out its wisdom once again, especially with wiring diagrams as despite doing many hours of research in previous threads, still managed to get some of them wrong out of the gate. It all looks relatively clean until you add the dash back into the mix and things get a little squirrely where you've got to keep it as organized as possible. Especially when you've wired everything up and placing the dash against the hoop for the first time. Some things fit, while others have to be worked around as it's hard to visualize everything as you are working. A couple of things I used:


Electrical wire tags
Individual grounds for all gauges
Perma Seal Connectors
Enough wire slack so that the dash can be pulled
Adhesive Zip Tie Holders and Plastic Epoxy to Attach to the back of the dash (Made organization a lot easier)


https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/9a1dc54a-5238-4f9d-9b0b-e55234574e44.png?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/9a1dc54a-5238-4f9d-9b0b-e55234574e44.png?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/a63388f3-ab45-4fbd-95a4-672c8bcfb0c9.png?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/a63388f3-ab45-4fbd-95a4-672c8bcfb0c9.png?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/1e53c352-2430-41b3-9f09-678e2a4d3d88.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/1e53c352-2430-41b3-9f09-678e2a4d3d88.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/2ca10913-dab8-4053-8792-4f0454fe6164.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/2ca10913-dab8-4053-8792-4f0454fe6164.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/285789b5-1fe6-44f0-a4cb-aec20777772a.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/285789b5-1fe6-44f0-a4cb-aec20777772a.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/b6a009de-5fb4-4524-944e-08ef71b6dfda.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/b6a009de-5fb4-4524-944e-08ef71b6dfda.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

Found some 90 degree battery lugs for the starter. Worked out great come from the engine bay.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/c5fc1d2c-da48-4f0a-a19a-b9c17dcde2ad.png?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/c5fc1d2c-da48-4f0a-a19a-b9c17dcde2ad.png?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

There's a lot going on in the engine bay but tried to clean it up as much as possible, especially around the mechanical throttle linkage. I gave everything its own loom in the event I need to address something down the road. A little more busy that way but I think I contained it OK. I also tried to ditch the electrical tape and go with shrink tubing for all of my electrical connectors. I saw that on Edwardb's build a few years ago and always thought it looked so clean as the electrical tape sometimes likes to come off with the heat over time and looks sloppy. Just have to be sure that you aren't going to open it again as its almost impossible to pull off after the fact. You really can't find the larger stuff locally, but you can find a great quality with all sizes here:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0D8VJ1DGC?ref_=ppx_hzsearch_conn_dt_b_fed_asin_ti tle_3&th=1

Speakers in the tunnel are all wired and ready to plug in as soon as I get carpeting done so I can reinstall the speakers over it. Plenty of room here for those that are giving it thought. This carbon fiber dash is a real looker. FFR did a great job here integrating the glove box.

I was able to reduce one relay and have to tilt my 'you told me so' hat to Kleiner and a few others for trying to get me to go the simple routing on the independent fan button, but I refused and had to go down the hard road of an unneeded relay. Removed the independent relay that I had added, re-routed the secondary thermo wire from the front harness to the engine compartment, and then just tapped the push button into that where it overrides the circuit and turns the fan on.

Also, if you haven't tried Nordlock washers instead of lock washers, these things are on a different level. A little expensive but they don't take as much room as a lock washer, secure excellent in terms of vibration and can be reused over and over again. I found mine here:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007VAW2F8?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title&th=1

[Blitzboy54]

Looking so good. Really clean and your dash looks terrific against those gauges.

[Higgybulin]

I agree, those gauges POP!!
Higgy

[cv2065]

Power steering reservoir and hoses were next. The external reservoir was a bit of an aggravation as I tried a couple before settling on the final one. Roush goes with 'Turn One Steering' for their pumps. I had never heard of them but apparently they make some high end (and expensive) stuff. Not sure why Roush did not go with an integrated reservoir like Blueprint does, but it’s probably a good thing in case there was interference with the steering shaft as I’ve seen others grapple with.

The outlets are so important based on your configuration and some didn't work for me. For example the Holley reservoir that some have used has front facing ports. By the time I got it test fitted, I didn't really have enough room for fittings and hoses. I settled on a Billet Specialties unit that has both the 6AN and 10AN fittings at the bottom, which lined up with the rack and reasonably well for the pump return.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/c02736c9-484a-4b70-987e-d86f5e230d4b.png?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/c02736c9-484a-4b70-987e-d86f5e230d4b.png?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

When it comes to the hoses, the fittings Mark from Breeze uses in his kit are really effortless and of high quality. I'm not sure if they are Aeroquip or what, but the PTFE stuff went together so much easier than some other brands. He also has a 150 degree fitting that comes from the steering box that you really can't find anywhere else. I used some of Evil Energy hoses and fittings to start, and not sure what was up, but over two orders the hoses were too large for the fittings. I did create my own 10AN return hose from a local company here in Orlando called RaceFlux. Nothing is tried and true yet for leaks but looks promising!

https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/dec1d95c-df24-4b71-beee-671ab39e987a.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/dec1d95c-df24-4b71-beee-671ab39e987a.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/422bae42-a115-4c01-9155-8e43f1280171.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/422bae42-a115-4c01-9155-8e43f1280171.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/0d9a04f2-9d27-41e7-b5cf-ff7b7e30d697.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/0d9a04f2-9d27-41e7-b5cf-ff7b7e30d697.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

[cv2065]

As I was test fitting for the USB and Cutoff switch faceplate, I hit a gotcha moment where the faceplate of my Joe's Racing cutoff switch was 90 degrees to the right of the switch orientation after I had run all of the power wires. I'm not sure how that got rotated but....DOH!!! Once I oriented it correctly, I did have to re-make the alternator and power wires as they were not long enough. Just check that stuff before you measure everything out.

All looks good now. I had my USB below the dash on the last build and the cord always seemed to get in the way of my legs. I also only had one outlet so no one else in the car could charge. So I put a dual outlet this time and its located on the lower panel of the dash. The cords will be out of the way and not hanging all over the place.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/3b8a815a-5de1-4d16-b0f4-60df198d3308.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/3b8a815a-5de1-4d16-b0f4-60df198d3308.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

[cv2065]

I wanted to quickly fit up my Gas n Pipes headers so that I could get them off to ceramic coat this week. Something I should have done a while ago as I've had them sitting in the box. Georgie makes some super high quality pipes, unfortunately, all of the holes from the header were not aligning with the heads. I could get 4 of them threaded, but the others were just so slightly off to avoid threading. I tried loosening them all up, pulling the header away, etc, but no dice.

I reached out to Georgie and his response was lightning fast, and on a weekend no less. Said he would hone them again. Sent me a prepaid shipping invoice and I had them in the mail by the following Monday. Delayed my first start slightly, but I give Gas N Pipes an A++++ in the 'after the sale' customer service department. Top notch vendor!!

As soon as I get those back, I will be a footstep from a first start!

https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/92a195aa-f685-4797-bcb0-5270f5f5c364.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/92a195aa-f685-4797-bcb0-5270f5f5c364.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

[Jeff Kleiner]

Too bad that you already shipped them. I was going to recommend that with them (semi) mounted you need to make sure that you can get a socket on the plugs and if not have him address that as well. Just sayin' based on some things I've seen ;)

Jeff

[jengum]

Is that a 3" center to center spacing for the header bolts?

What is the mega fuse for by the oil filter location? I noticed the one for the alternator output on the passenger side.

[cv2065]

Too bad that you already shipped them. I was going to recommend that with them (semi) mounted you need to make sure that you can get a socket on the plugs and if not have him address that as well. Just sayin' based on some things I've seen ;)

Jeff

Thanks Jeff. I just got a note from Georgie and he'll be working on them over the next couple of days. I can send him a note to take a look as I would assume that he'll test fit these before sending them back out? Thanks for the heads up!

[cv2065]

Is that a 3" center to center spacing for the header bolts?

What is the mega fuse for by the oil filter location? I noticed the one for the alternator output on the passenger side.

3" would be correct. The other fuse is from the BT amplifier as I ran it straight to the battery.

[cv2065]

Thanks to Mike Bray, I did make the decision to change out my Wilwood clutch master with the Tilton version (75-812U). This is the 13/16" bore size, which is the same size that Forte sends out with this hydraulic clutch kit. Although I never had any issues with the Wilwood MCs in my last build (almost 7K miles worth), I thought I'd take a look and see what all of the hubub was about.

First off, Tilton does make a nice unit. Although it still fits into the same housing as the Wilwood, it's a larger unit and feels more robust. I did not take it apart, but from some of the posts about it, the bore on the Tilton is hard anodized and won't wear if the MC is not perfectly aligned in its cradle. Is there merit to that versus how much these get driven? Not sure, but I thought what the hell, the swap is very simple with the clutch MC and it's the one that gets the most abuse. All that said, there were a couple of things to note when installing the Tilton:


Fully seating the MC cap is extremely tight, even with a thin film of lube on the inside cap. It needs to go all the way down flush with the seat. Have some really strong hands or something to leverage against. Not sure why it needs to be so tight as it has an included clamp?
Once the cap is on, it can't be rotated, so you need to have it pointing in the right direction or you'll need something to pry it off and start over again. There's a gasket there that needs to stay lubed to avoid tearing.
The hose cap is larger than the Wilwood, and if not cocked off to one side you can't get a wrench on the upper mounting nut
There is no flat spot for a wrench on the threaded rod that goes into the clevis. Might be difficult to remove on an assembled car
It has an unnecessarily large clamp to hold the hose cap on. Not that you'd have to worry about it coming off
A 5/16-24 thin nyloc nut is needed for the bottom as there is not enough thread due to the Tilton base being thicker
The hose goes from 1/4 to 5/16, so you need to appropriate fitting on the reservoir and through the footbox hole
I had to buy an additional 90-degree 3AN Male to 3AN Female swivel fitting for the braided hydraulic cable
Took 5/8" off of the threaded rod, just like the Wilwood


All that said, the action of the pedal and MC is very nice and was it worth the change? We'll see! :) I'm keeping the brake MCs Wilwood for now as it's a little more complicated to convert the brake line fittings to align with my brake line bends and I can get to those MCs easier if something needed to be changed out later. I'm also keeping my current Wilwood clutch MC as a backup if needed.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/b4badeda-d355-4884-8ab6-4a61e4f891c0.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/b4badeda-d355-4884-8ab6-4a61e4f891c0.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/c18c2607-adb3-4417-afe3-21660fcb2d37.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/c18c2607-adb3-4417-afe3-21660fcb2d37.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/abfe3259-f7d0-403e-9cdf-0c54fd04a3f1.png?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/abfe3259-f7d0-403e-9cdf-0c54fd04a3f1.png?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

[Mike.Bray]

Now is the time to install ARP 100-1404 header studs. Makes installation of the gasket/headers a snap and protects the threads in your expensive aluminum heads.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/arp-100-1404/make/ford

[gbranham]

Now is the time to install ARP 100-1404 header studs. Makes installation of the gasket/headers a snap and protects the threads in your expensive aluminum heads.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/arp-100-1404/make/ford

Yes! I just installed these very studs, and it's dreamy!

[cv2065]

Now is the time to install ARP 100-1404 header studs. Makes installation of the gasket/headers a snap and protects the threads in your expensive aluminum heads.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/arp-100-1404/make/ford

Although I'm a huge fan of ARP products, I used these locking nuts from Totally Stainless the last build and they never needed tightening. I also just needed to snug them up with a modified wrench as you all know, there isn't much room on the driver's side. The lock washers on these nuts act almost like a nord-lock washer as they lock together with just a little tightening.

https://shop.totallystainless.com/productlistheaderbolts.php

Now that I'm looking at them, they may very well indeed use Nord-Lock washers with their studs. Look identical. What length are the ARP bolts? 1" or 1-1/4"?

[Mike.Bray]

Although I'm a huge fan of ARP products, I used these locking nuts from Totally Stainless the last build and they never needed tightening. I also just needed to snug them up with a modified wrench as you all know, there isn't much room on the driver's side. The lock washers on these nuts act almost like a nord-lock washer as they lock together with just a little tightening.

https://shop.totallystainless.com/productlistheaderbolts.php

Now that I'm looking at them, they may very well indeed use Nord-Lock washers with their studs. Look identical. What length are the ARP bolts? 1" or 1-1/4"?

FWIW

I'm not much of a fan of spring washers, split, lock, star, or any other gimmicks they've come up with in the name of "lock washers". If you think about the physics of keeping a bolt tight, how much tension would one of these little gadgets have to exert? What's commonly called a lock washer, a split washer, simply flattens out when tightened against, and at a very low torque. Hook's Law is what keeps bolts and nuts from coming loose. Don't believe me? When is the last time you saw any sort of lock washer in an engine or on an aircraft?

In the case of your headers you have a steel or stainless steel bolt threading into an aluminum cylinder head. First thing, if the female thread is a weaker material than the male thread, the hole in the cylinder head vs. the bolt, a coarse thread will be used. This helps but in this case when tightening a bolt into the head you are applying tension force as well as rotational forces against aluminum. With a stud threaded into the aluminum the only force the hole sees is tension as the nut is tightened onto the stud. A much better situation.

Positive locking header bolts like Stage 8 are a different matter as they physically prevent the bolt from rotating once installed.

[cv2065]

Looks like my headers are on their way back from Georgie! Should have them by the first of next week, so I'm knocking out some of the smaller things prior to my first start.

Let's start with the horns. I was tempted to go outside and upgrade this to a blower type of horn, but I never had any issues with these and they are very easy to install. I had relocated my front harness over the top of the radiator so the horn wires needed to be extended. I keep every bit of wire that I cut out as I may need the color at another time. A mish mosh of different colored wires spliced together can get confusing. Not to say that I've never done it, but try to keep it all the same color as well as the same gauge or higher.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/55c7e52a-530a-4603-918b-32100ef9247c.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/55c7e52a-530a-4603-918b-32100ef9247c.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/c0abc5ee-8038-4e49-ae65-e110cae44619.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/c0abc5ee-8038-4e49-ae65-e110cae44619.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

Next up was the Breeze radiator cowl cover. I had bought one of these for my last build but never installed as it seemed too much of a hassle after the body was on. I think I cut it up for some other fabricated items. I installed it this time and it comes powder coated! Nice extra there. I decided not to rivet this on. Due to the angle of the piece, if you needed to remove the radiator, you'd be hard pressed to pull out the top 3/4" tube bolts unless you drilled out the rivets and removed the cover. Rivnuts seemed excessive as there are 10 holes, so I tapped each hole for a 10-32 button head. With a little blue loctite, they hold just fine and will be easier to remove if that time ever comes.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/32065951-a71a-4e75-835d-b2230813466b.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/32065951-a71a-4e75-835d-b2230813466b.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

And then we have the Metco driveshaft loop. Sometimes you just have to resign to the fact that every car is different and virtually nothing will go on as intended. This was one of those. Although nothing crazy difficult, it's just nice when things just "bolt up", which is maybe 30% of the time at best. :p

The last time I installed one of these, it bolted up with no issues or modifications. I'm assuming that the number of shims that you put in for the driveshaft angle can impact this add on. So, not only did I have to cut the main bracket down by 1/4" in order for it to center on the driveshaft, but that also meant elongating the mounting holes and buying new, longer bolts all the way around. I also needed to create two 1/4" shims out of steel to raise the loop up just a bit off of the driveshaft. No room for error here as the bolts are threaded into the bracket and I can't imagine drilling this without a drill press. I have about 1" clearance and its barely touching my e brake cables. All good.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/61aca7fd-b9d4-4df8-9b35-c16b964b9ca5.png?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/61aca7fd-b9d4-4df8-9b35-c16b964b9ca5.png?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/035d0e16-778f-4825-97b4-8261e2965f50.jpeg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/035d0e16-778f-4825-97b4-8261e2965f50.jpeg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/39426686-7525-4928-8c8c-fb935e7a8704.png?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/39426686-7525-4928-8c8c-fb935e7a8704.png?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

[Blitzboy54]

I did a strip of bulb seal along the outer edge. I figured it might vibrate against the body. Probably not necessary but it's what I did

[cv2065]

I did a strip of bulb seal along the outer edge. I figured it might vibrate against the body. Probably not necessary but it's what I did

Agree Jessie. I've read that some had issues with it flapping a little and making noise. I'll add some as well. Thanks!

[Jeff Kleiner]

Chad,
That’ll need to be removed when you install the body.

Jeff

[cv2065]

Chad,
That’ll need to be removed when you install the body.

Jeff

You read my mind Jeff as I was just thinking about that and if it would interfere with the install. Thanks for the tip!

[cv2065]

I finally got my headers back from Georgie at Gas N Pipes. Everything looks good and they fit up nicely! Again, just want to shout out at the customer service here as they had my pipes about 4 days and sent immediately back. As soon as I have my first start, they will come back off and get sent to the ceramic coaters.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/5ed03e2d-f723-4f6a-a4a2-0d9d49e05243.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/5ed03e2d-f723-4f6a-a4a2-0d9d49e05243.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

While I was waiting, Mike Bray had recommended the 100-1404 header studs from ARP. I had never used studs before, only bolts, so thought I'd give them a try. Well, once I installed the studs, getting the headers on was a BREEZE! No more holding the header up to the head with the gasket, fumbling around with bolts and sweating bullets, especially on the drivers side. Popped up the gasket, laid the header on the studs and took my time with the nuts. Thanks for that tip Mike! Mike posted the link for them above, but here's a closeup.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/27b5d58b-738b-469e-85fb-2335d769b799.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/27b5d58b-738b-469e-85fb-2335d769b799.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

One caveat is getting a socket on the spark plugs with the ARP studs, as a traditional socket gets hung up on the nut and will not freely rotate. Skinny socket to the rescue. I bought one of these with a swivel head from Amazon and gives me all of the clearance that I need. It also has a magnetic head. You can get it here: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09769ZRV1?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title&th=1

https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/c4b62229-60cd-4922-83df-83856304153e.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/c4b62229-60cd-4922-83df-83856304153e.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

I tried my best to get a first start this weekend, but it just wasn't in the cards. First off, the oil dipstick from Roush was too tall to get the headers over it, even after I bent it a bit, so I had ordered a 12" flex dipstick off of Amazon. It was not a Lokar, but pretty nice knockoff. I installed and it went on fine but it once fully installed, the rotation on the tube was not correct and was not able to secure it to anything as the attachment piece only rotated 180 degrees. I have since returned it and am waiting on the Lokar version to see if I have any better luck as it will rotate 360.

Secondly, we had a plumbing clog at the house that overflowed the bathroom shower stall and toilet on Saturday. This was a very 'sh...ty' situation. :eek: Out came the 25-foot auger and still couldn't reach the clog, so a plumber will have to be in the cards. Anyway, the event 'soaked' up my entire Saturday.

So Sunday, thanks to the forum, I was getting ready to start loading some fluids for NEXT WEEK'S startup, and thought that I would go ahead and ditch the worm gear clamps on my cooling system and trade them out for black T-Clamps with black silicone hoses. YEAH, now we are talking as the Boig tubes are gloss black and will marry up nicely. It's all about the details! I should have that swapped out this week before the weekend.

I did get a chance to install the Roadster Tow Bar kit from one of the new forum vendors (FastCobra13). Really nice piece and took about 5 minutes to install. John (Fixit) made a quick video on it. I highly recommend it in case anyone has to take the walk of shame one fancy weekend and don't have to worry about damaging the body. I will keep it in the 'stowed' position on the car.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/f54b5604-891f-4375-9851-e31855ea9d66.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/f54b5604-891f-4375-9851-e31855ea9d66.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

I was also trying to figure out how I'm going to mount my Intatrim seats. Turns out the Breeze seat bracket kit fits up perfectly. New holes will have to be drilled but no biggie. Really happy that worked out as Mark's seat brackets are the bomb!

https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/3c8cf051-99f7-4c11-ac08-a11cc6130943.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/3c8cf051-99f7-4c11-ac08-a11cc6130943.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/f76c4cf0-52d0-4ca6-9d56-cd6d50a87615.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/f76c4cf0-52d0-4ca6-9d56-cd6d50a87615.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

[Mike.Bray]

Are your headers on the 3" bolt spacing? That makes it so much nicer over the standard 2" spacing.

You know silicone coolant hoses will leak don't you? They're porous to coolant. Sorry:(

[cv2065]

Are your headers on the 3" bolt spacing? That makes it so much nicer over the standard 2" spacing.

You know silicone coolant hoses will leak don't you? They're porous to coolant. Sorry:(

Yes, they are 3" bolt spacing and it does make it SO much easier. And thanks for the heads up on silicone. I'm aware of their porosity BUT, they do have new 4 ply versions so maybe those will be different. Sometimes, it's form over function Mike. :p

[Mike.Bray]

You might check out these clamps. I've used them and they're great. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/aaf-all30257

https://www.imagecoast.com/images/MichaelBray1/20250301140503mediumrotated.jpg

[BadAsp427]

Hey Dude..... So are you able to get the sparkplug socket on to all of the plugs? On mine, one of the prototype sets of headers that I helped Georgie build, I have a plug that can not be removed with the headers installed. Just curious if he found the best fix for that. And it's all looking great..

[cv2065]

Hey Dude..... So are you able to get the sparkplug socket on to all of the plugs? On mine, one of the prototype sets of headers that I helped Georgie build, I have a plug that can not be removed with the headers installed. Just curious if he found the best fix for that. And it's all looking great..

Hey Carl. Yes, when I sent the headers back to Georgie to be honed again, Jeff Kleiner recommended that I ask him to check the spark plug clearance as well. I sent a not to Georgie and he double checked. All seems good!

[cv2065]

Back to it! I got my headers back from Georgie and he did a great job honing them again and ensuring that I had spark plug clearance for the socket. 3-day turnaround. Not too shabby! The special swivel socket that I bought will get to every spark plug and have enough room to apply a torque value because I'm anal like that.:p

I have had a few minor annoyances lately leading up to the first start.

Sensors: My Speedhut oil pressure sensor harness died. Great customer service there as they sent me a new harness in 2 days. Running that again was a real PITA. Good thing I still used electrical tape on that harness because shrink is a beast to remove. My fuel gauge also has some sort of issue. I can calibrate it to the 16-158 ohms setting, but it just goes to zero. When I calibrate to 0-30 ohms, it looks like its registering just about the right amount of fuel in the tank (4 gallons was a little over a quarter tank). It will also register a tank reading in every other calibrated setting, except 16-158. I need to pull the sender and test it so on the to do list.

Leaks: Accidentally tested the fuel system, as I had the radio on while I was calibrating the gauge and forgot that I had plugged the fuel pump in. Heard a slight humming under the music and then the games began! I had a major geyser coming out of the front fuel log where the end is capped as well as a leak at the pump feed. NO BUENO!! I had planned on a final tightening check before the test, but sometimes things don't go as planned. A little high temp sealant at the front and I used a conical seal from Earls on the fuel hangar fitting. Not sure that I needed one, but it worked great. One thing that I did learn in this is that AN ORB fittings are to screw all the way down to the base of the fitting, to where the o ring virtually disappears into the recess. If it doesn't disappear, then there is an issue. I also lubricate them with silicone grease. Another thing I learned was to NOT use Evil Energy stuff. Started out liking them but two sets of fuel hose that did not match their fittings and the o-rings on the ORB fittings I got were too small and caused leakage. Mileage may vary, but I'm out. I also had a couple of minor leaks on the silicone hoses. First time I have used silicone hoses, and they seem to need more tightening versus a rubber hose but look great. :cool:

First start flight check:

My Canton oil pan is 7 quarts, so that's what went into the engine. I used Lucas Break In oil SAE 30 weight. Did I need a break in oil with a roller cam? No, but Blueprint recommends it for their engines, so I said why not.
Filled PS reservoir with Honda power steering fluid. The dealer has it for $5 a quart.
Filled the radiator with coolant (50/50) from Wally World at the filler neck. Lifted the front end on jack stands. Opened the top draincock on the radiator. Filled until it came out then closed that up. Continued to fill periodically as I let the bubbles escape from the intake over a period of a couple hours. I also filled my overflow tank halfway with coolant. Dropped the car back to level.
Manually rotated the engine to 16 BTDC, pulled the distributor cap and marked the position of the rotor towards #1 terminal as well as the position of the base to the intake. I did use the finger in the #1 spark plug hole method to ensure I was on the compression stroke.
Pulled the distributor and oil primed the engine spinning counterclockwise with oil priming tool. Oil pressure gauge registered 68 psi. NICE, BUT I smoked my 7A drill and it wasn't even cordless. The Craftsman tools just aren't what they used to be!
Re-installed distributor. Lubed up the distributor gear beforehand and had to rotate the pump by hand with the primer tool a couple of times for it to engage the gear perfectly right back to #1. Rotated the housing back to my mark on the intake and locked it down.
Re-installed spark plugs and headers.
Removed air cleaner and grabbed my trusty timing light, fire extinguisher, damp towels (just in case), power steering fluid and coolant jugs for top off and called the neighbor for another set of eyes and possible damage control. Ready for lift off!


Fuel pump on...no leaks....CHECK!
Crank engine. Key and push button work great...CHECK!
High torque starter almost sounding like a high tech semi truck starter....CHECK!
Blip the throttle one time to prime....CHECK!
Too long of an ignition coil wire because I had to get a quick temporary replacement (Power Tower to the rescue) as Roush doesn't provide one and I found out last minute....CHECK!

Turned the key and BOOM! Scared my neighbor and the dogs ran to the back bedrooms. It's ALIVE and sounds glorious! Listen to those tappity tap drums!! Lars Ulrich would be proud!!

https://youtu.be/2JjCCNI--Co

Checked the timing and settled at 16 degrees BTDC at idle to avoid any coughing through the carb at shut down. Starts right up and shuts down nicely now but need to still get the vacuum gauge out and fine tune the carb, the all in timing as well as the idle. I'm sitting at 900 right now, which is not too bad. Also looks like I have a 195 degree thermostat and when my auto fan comes on, the billet button LED also comes on. COOL!

Big milestone completed and once I get the body on, things are going to speed up. As always, thanks to everyone on the forum for their input and advice.

[danmas]

That looks and sounds amazing! Well done sir!

[Higgybulin]

OOOOOOHHH YEAAAAH!!(think Macho Man Randy Savage!) That sounds great!! OK, now I can come over to see it!!
Higgy

[edwardb]

You guys and your open header first starts... My ears (and neighbors) don't appreciate it. Hopefully you had protection for at least one of those. :rolleyes: Congratulations BTW.

[cv2065]

OOOOOOHHH YEAAAAH!!(think Macho Man Randy Savage!) That sounds great!! OK, now I can come over to see it!!
Higgy

Anytime Higgy!

[cv2065]

You guys and your open header first starts... My ears (and neighbors) don't appreciate it. Hopefully you had protection for at least one of those. :rolleyes: Congratulations BTW.

Lol. Thanks Paul. I did get some visits. :D

[Jeff Kleiner]

Congrats Chad!

Jeff

[cv2065]

Congrats Chad!

Jeff

Thanks Jeff!!

[Blitzboy54]

That engine looks amazing. Real work of art.

[gbranham]

Congrats! Great milestone. Looks and sounds awesome. I remember my first start in my MkIII with open headers. Scared the crap out of me...I didn't expect it to be that loud. I quickly shut it off and slapped the sidepipes on it.

Greg

[BadAsp427]

Wow Chad. That sounds amazing

[jengum]

I decided that I wanted the e-brake on the top of the tunnel this time around as I'm going to be using the mid-shift kit from Forte. Thanks to Mike Craven and his outstanding build for the visual. Lots of different ways to do this on the forum, so I started down the road of making this much more complicated than it needed to be. At the recommendation from Wallace18, I bought the blacked out Lokar Kit (Model XEHB-700F) from Speedway Motors. This came with the handle assembly, clevis, boot and also the trim ring, which is a nice bonus, as they are hard to find.

I wanted to put the handle as far back on the tunnel as possible on the passenger side, but there's not much room as the supports come together at the corner. The handle was to be mounted through the 1" tubing and needed to be spaced out, so I bought a 12" x 1", 1/4" thick plate of aluminum to serve as the spacer and help support the tubing. The tunnel tubing is not that thick so I thought bolstering it up a bit and spreading the load over a foot would help with the stress of pulling up on the handle.

I then drilled 5/16" holes through the tubing, spacer and secured with a bolt through the lokar handle mounting holes. I now have a drill press, and man did that make things easy!

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/IMG_9131.JPG?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/IMG_9131.JPG?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/IMG_9132.JPG?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/IMG_9132.JPG?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/IMG_9178.JPG?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/IMG_9178.JPG?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/IMG_9177.JPG?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/IMG_9177.JPG?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

I used the FFR supplied cables that i ran over the IRS and connected right into the frame bracket and will be secured into the clevis. Not much slack between the bracket and clevis and the angle seems doable. MSummers has a similar setup that works fine.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/IMG_9105.JPG?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/IMG_9105.JPG?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

Then they run to the Wilwood calipers. Again, this setup is SO much better than the Mustang calipers that I had before. Getting the ebrake to work with a custom spring, etc., was a bit tedious. The Wilwoods come with a connecting bracket and the e brake cable fit right up into the channel and I secured with an E clip.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/IMG_9104.JPG?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/IMG_9104.JPG?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

Final testing still needed, but I like how its routed and hopefully will get much better engagement that what I had before. I will be cutting off the FFR e brake bracket from the frame so that I can create a flush patch panel.

Hi Chad...have you had the opportunity to test the e brake with first start? I'm considering a similar setup with the Lokar handle for driver side location and added cable mounting bracket. Any issues trimming out the tunnel top cover and button head screws used for mounting the handle?

[cv2065]

Hi Chad...have you had the opportunity to test the e brake with first start? I'm considering a similar setup with the Lokar handle for driver side location and added cable mounting bracket. Any issues trimming out the tunnel top cover and button head screws used for mounting the handle?

Hi Jen. I haven't had it out on the road yet, but initial testing is good where it's holding tightly. No issues trimming the cover, you just have to trace it all out and account for the action. Another consideration when cutting your hole is being able to get the cover off without having to disassemble the entire thing. You can cut notches out of the floor panel to accommodate the button heads so they don't stick out. There is no interference with the cover, even with insulation.

[cv2065]

Finished up my first start with a few more and dialed in the timing. I kept it conservative for now and am running about 32-34 all in @3K and roughly 19-20 base timing. I did reset all four corners of the carb with my vacuum gauge. Factory was pretty close. I think I could give it a little more as the starter is a beast and has zero issues. Engine literally explodes into action at the blip of the key ice cold, no pings and no burning eyeballs. :p Might play with it again later but for now, it's running amazing. I have a very slight weeping leak at the gas tank but I'll deal with that once I lower it to finish up the drop trunk mod.

Time for the body fitment as I need to get my seats and dash rolling. I pulled the buck out of the garage and started trimming the front and rear lip up. I took 1/4" off the front and 1/8" off the back. I used a 40 grit flap wheel which makes quick work of the fiberglass. I was careful as it will do some serious damage in a short period of time if you're not watching it. Respirator and goggles in tow. I installed my bulb seal and cut up some yard trash bags to cover the seal to prevent damage as much as possible.

My son is home from college and my wife was ready with her oven mitt and garden glove. Not sure what is going on there, but she was willing, so no questions from me. I installed the middle brace and we were off to the races. I had the front, son had the rear and wife was pulling the sides out with the oven mitt.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/394c3747-93c7-489e-9518-1c9206a50af3.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/394c3747-93c7-489e-9518-1c9206a50af3.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/151b4d1f-8177-4d7d-b2d6-ba9d7a805408.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/151b4d1f-8177-4d7d-b2d6-ba9d7a805408.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

Once the body was on I checked the recommended metrics for fitment. I first checked to see if the body was centered by measuring from the front shock towers to wheel lip. I loosely installed the quick jack bolts just to pick the front and rear up and they aligned nicely. Then pulled the sides out and body forward as far as it would go.

This is where I ran into my issue. The 1/4" trimming of the dash was not enough on the driver's side (common) and it was hitting the dash before I could get my 5/16" gap between the body and striker plate. I attempted to trim it without pulling the body off but you just can't get behind there enough to provide the necessary clearance. So off the body went. Trimmed it up another 1/8" and back on.

Now we are talking and the door hinges swing freely.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/cadfe153-6475-4695-bdd2-8e22cd86b469.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/cadfe153-6475-4695-bdd2-8e22cd86b469.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/59f8c507-bdc9-4239-8381-975bd871e931.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/59f8c507-bdc9-4239-8381-975bd871e931.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

Now it's seats time!

[cv2065]

If you are on the fence about Intatrim seats, don't hesitate. They are made so nicely. You just have to get creative to install as they do not come with rails or a base of any kind. I know some have used rails, but really liking the reclining nature of the Breeze seat brackets, I decided to go with those.

Not much to it really....Start with centering the seat on the Breeze reclining plate.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/3c8cf051-99f7-4c11-ac08-a11cc6130943.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/3c8cf051-99f7-4c11-ac08-a11cc6130943.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/f76c4cf0-52d0-4ca6-9d56-cd6d50a87615.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/f76c4cf0-52d0-4ca6-9d56-cd6d50a87615.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

Then while holding the seat steady, lift the cushion up and drill 4 holes into the seat and then into the seat bracket. I used 1.5" SS button head bolts, nyloc nuts and washers. You cannot use the predrilled holes in the bracket as they don't align with the seat bottom.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/87398469-4aa0-46e8-8a62-c9fdba7eba53.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/87398469-4aa0-46e8-8a62-c9fdba7eba53.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

There is one catch. The top Breeze seat bracket has a giant hole in it, as it's not designed for this seat. So, the rear two bolts will have nothing to secure into and you can't drill them far enough to the sides to catch metal. So I cut a 12" piece of 1/8" x 1" steel and bolted it to the frame so that I had something for the bolt to attach.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/1479fa2a-fce8-4b3b-bbb0-3805c2fd7b5e.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/1479fa2a-fce8-4b3b-bbb0-3805c2fd7b5e.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/67d7a59c-6cae-4f48-8a68-e243ef7cddd6.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/67d7a59c-6cae-4f48-8a68-e243ef7cddd6.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

Attached the bottom plate and check for clearance against your 4 bolts and ready to roll.

I then took the bottom plates to the car and fitted them to my liking. I tried to get as close to the back wall as possible to eliminate gaps and ran fairly parallel to the tunnel. Except for the driver's side where I angled it just slightly to better face the foot box. I have about 1" between the edge of the seat and the door striker. That's what I shot for on my last build and it was perfect. Sat my big round one in the seats for a final feel and riveted them in. The incline is awesome and seats are of the bolster sort, so form fitting and very comfortable.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/7baf0e45-21ec-430a-a482-5c3c946d0fab.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/7baf0e45-21ec-430a-a482-5c3c946d0fab.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/c4b72f8d-aba0-4676-b427-92aaed903415.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/c4b72f8d-aba0-4676-b427-92aaed903415.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

[cv2065]

The dash placement this time around was a little different than the last build. With the vinyl dash, I did put the body on in advance but I had already roughly fitted the dash to where the ends were 3/16" lower than the ends of the hoop and then used the body to determine where my mounting holes would go. Only issue was that in one area of the dash, you could see the hoop once it was all installed. I'm not sure why that happened but wanted to avoid it this time.

This time I put the body on, then pushed the dash up as far as I could get it and marked the lip. Then I decided where the mounting holes were going to go. I did cut the same L brackets and riveted them to the bottom of the hoop to give me a place to mount so that the lip did not cover them, which makes quick removal of the dash in the future an issue.

Because I'm using larger gauges, my L brackets could not be symmetrical across the dash, so this time I think I may only use 2 screws to hold the dash, and with Everson's under dash panel on the passenger side and an extra underneath bracket on the driver's side, it will be extremely solid. I'll use the same black chrome 10-32 button heads as last time, but they won't be a highlighted part of the dash. I just want them to blend in.

My dash ended up about flush with the driver's side hoop end, but was about 1/8" above the hoop on the passenger's side and it is perfectly level at the bottom and aligns right in the middle of the steering wheel cutout. It definitely pushed up more on the passenger side. I was still showing about 1/8" of hoop just above the Speedometer, and didn't want to go any lower than that due to my previous experience, so I trimmed about 3/16" off the driver's side end to avoid any body interference. All fits perfectly. I had the body on and off 3 times to verify the fitment and it was always the same, so I'm very happy with it.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/a63116cf-1514-4b07-8693-390e78cfb172.png?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/a63116cf-1514-4b07-8693-390e78cfb172.png?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/3e58841e-aded-45d3-8ad5-57a403ee2758.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/3e58841e-aded-45d3-8ad5-57a403ee2758.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/c3826f98-3059-4f8a-bc57-664554044054.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/c3826f98-3059-4f8a-bc57-664554044054.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

I'm going to have the mobile welder out on Friday or Monday to get my Breeze roll bar TIG welded. I should be ready for go-karting within the next two weeks. Just have to bleed my clutch and install the ie427 steering column and wheel.

[cv2065]

Mobile welder came out today to take care of my roll bar and I was so excited to get this completed. My friend Michael Craven (aka Hacksaw) and I were parked side by side at a car show a couple of years ago and he looked over and said, you've got the 'paperclips'. I said, how do you mean? He says the 1.5" rollbars; they are skinny and tall. Once you see it, you can't unsee it. Of course, Michael had the 2" old rollbars that he cut down by 2" in height. And he was right...I couldn't unsee it.

So I said on the next build, I'm going to change that, and it was Breeze to the rescue. I really love Mark's 1.75" lowered raked version and had to have it. The welder came to my house and TIG welded the third leg in about 30 minutes. He could have finished sooner, but some surgery needed to be done at the top of the third leg as it did not fit flush and had a gap. So he carved out the other side to where it fit flush and bam, it was history.

Gap originally looked like this and can't be TIG welded as is.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/0c2f616c-e5f6-4c6b-b3d3-812ccf14b9b2.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/0c2f616c-e5f6-4c6b-b3d3-812ccf14b9b2.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

Did a little surgery and finished product.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/57557b6b-9499-474e-bc61-52f431b378e8.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/57557b6b-9499-474e-bc61-52f431b378e8.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/f85cdcf1-a182-4a91-b173-ec3b6d8efd25.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/f85cdcf1-a182-4a91-b173-ec3b6d8efd25.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/bf8bda73-2f0d-46c6-997b-2228db70bd51.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/bf8bda73-2f0d-46c6-997b-2228db70bd51.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

Once I get the body back on I'll size the holes and get this powder coated. As a side note, I did ensure that I disconnected the battery as well as the MSD box, just to be on the safe side. The welder said he works on race cars and fuel tanks (with fuel) all the time and it wasn't really necessary with his setup but good to be cautious as well.

[Blitzboy54]

Hacksaw’s car is why I went with a 2” roll bar. Your welder did great work. Crushing it Chad.

[OB6]

Hacksaw’s car is why I went with a 2” roll bar. Your welder did great work. Crushing it Chad.

And yours is why I went with the 2" roll bars. :) The extra girth dramatically reduces the paperclip look, even at the same height.

[cv2065]

Hacksaw’s car is why I went with a 2” roll bar. Your welder did great work. Crushing it Chad.

Thanks Jessie! I love the 2" as well. Hacksaw's dual bars look awesome. He lowered his by I think 2" and it looked to be some major surgery on his Instagram build thread, so I went with the Breeze bar instead.

[BadAsp427]

:cool:

[cv2065]

Working on some odds and ends before I get some go kart time in this week. I did get my headers back from ceramic coat and man do they look great. I had them done in black and then put a Satin finish over that and they are perfect! My local guy at Performance Kote did both for $375. Took the collectors apart, coated inside and out and even did the bolt heads. I'll be sending over my side pipes once everything is fitted for a matching set.

When installing again I remembered how much these ARP studs make this a breeze to do. I was going to use the gaskets sent from Gas n Pipes, but I also got a set of Remflex 3035 gaskets for comparison. Love my Gas n Pipes stuff, but nothing holds a candle to these Remflex gaskets. Better made and fit the 351W on the DART block perfectly. You have to hang the Gas n Pipes gaskets upside down in order to fit the ports on the head correctly, even though they are upside down to the header flange pattern, as the gasket mounting holes are not equidistant top to bottom. Odd...

https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/adf0415d-b13d-43dc-a89b-4032be47a24d.png?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/adf0415d-b13d-43dc-a89b-4032be47a24d.png?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/0363a77e-686b-4a89-a4b4-515c67c65adb.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/0363a77e-686b-4a89-a4b4-515c67c65adb.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

I am also trying out the Nord-Loc washer system instead of the ARP flat washers. These worked great in other places I've used them so we'll see. They are about as thick as the ARP washers. If you want to try these out, you can get them here: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0D4QMQ848?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title&th=1

https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/f902336b-0559-46ae-b0be-a8a702361541.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/f902336b-0559-46ae-b0be-a8a702361541.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

As a last action, I replaced my spark plugs. I figured I'd get a fresh set as these things have been around for the dyno as well as me tinkering a few times to get my timing right, and a lot of idling in the garage. Funny thing is that the plugs Roush included with the engine are Autolite 605’s. These are tapered plugs and not with crush washers. The 605's also come pre-gapped at .060"? The heads that come with the Roush 427 are AFR 205 heads, just branded as Roush, so not sure why they would pick a tapered plug as AFR recommends the Autolite 3924 or the NGK 7373, which both have crush washers. So I used the 3924s, as I have in the past. Gapped them to .035 and installed to 15 ft.lbs as recommended by Autolite.

One word on gapping plugs. Do NOT trust the little circular gapping tool. They are not all created equal. I had two that were .05" apart in readings. I used my feeler gauge instead.

I also made a clutch stop. I purchased a 1" x 2" aluminum block locally that was .5" thick. I then tapped two 10/32" holes to secure it from the other side of the driver's side footbox with button heads and one larger 5/16" hole for the stop itself. Painted it black and I think it came out really nice. Another one of those "no one else will know its there but me" efforts. I didn't have a stop in my last build but this should give it a more firm feel during 'spirited' driving. I might add some washers and a jam nut later to give it some additional stability.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/28cfd2ea-5df2-456c-a129-be271229712c.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/28cfd2ea-5df2-456c-a129-be271229712c.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/931e16c6-2e30-44d0-98e9-42bc2a856b2e.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/931e16c6-2e30-44d0-98e9-42bc2a856b2e.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/d5c4a33c-65d6-447e-ba39-7e83ad0ab701.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/d5c4a33c-65d6-447e-ba39-7e83ad0ab701.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

[cv2065]

I made a radiator screen out of some black powder coated perforated hexagon grill mesh from customcargrills.com. Wow, this was perfect as this stuff is normally kind of expensive, but they have a scrap section on their website. I was able to get a 32" x 50" piece for half price of a normal sheet. Thought it might be beat up and bent but nope, perfect condition. Once cut to size (26" x 21"), and a bit off the top of both sides for a good fit, I added 1/16" edge trim (wind lace) around the perimeter for a finished look. As I did last time, I drilled the front radiator support in 3 spots for 10/32" screws and used 1/2" nylon spacers to prop it away from the radiator. The bottom will hang a bit for now as I'm using Everson's nose aluminum that will hold it down once in place once installed. Turned out great. I thought that my Breeze radiator cowl cover might have some interference but hung the screen low enough to where it all fits.

If anyone decides to do this, just keep in mind that these grills are finished with metal stripping at the top and bottom. Just be sure to cut it so that is on top as it gives it more strength when hanging.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/8fecb10d-a36a-40a2-b310-7583a13799da.png?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/8fecb10d-a36a-40a2-b310-7583a13799da.png?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/257f9189-9c74-4577-8221-7de56bb7724a.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/257f9189-9c74-4577-8221-7de56bb7724a.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

My Canton overflow can was still stainless and was sticking out like a sore thumb with all of the blacked out in the engine bay. So I pulled it and dropped it off to my powder coat guy. He had it back in less than a week and I reinstalled. Now it looks complete!

https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/347f807a-aa24-4afa-a099-05fd171229f5.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/347f807a-aa24-4afa-a099-05fd171229f5.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

Forgot to mention that I also found a 16lb Meziere radiator filler cap to go with the blacked out engine theme. Never seen a two-piece cap with pin. Very cool!

https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/4d403d0b-abb5-4fa8-89ed-1754ac0090f0.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/4d403d0b-abb5-4fa8-89ed-1754ac0090f0.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

Well, all I have to do now is hook up the side pipes, bolt on the steering wheel and grab some gas and I'm heading out to the street. Hopefully by Thursday at the latest if the weather holds out.

[danmas]

Dude. Just wow! That all looks insanely cool… I just ordered my scrap piece for my radiator. Thanks for sharing….

[Grubester]

Why the extra radiator screen/mesh added? Is this protection for the radiator's vanes or esthetic...?

[Higgybulin]

Headers look bad ***!! Price seems pretty fair as well.
Higgy

[egchewy79]

Why the extra radiator screen/mesh added? Is this protection for the radiator's vanes or esthetic...?
A little bit of both. Some have had leaks from the radiator after a rock strike through the large opening

[cv2065]

Why the extra radiator screen/mesh added? Is this protection for the radiator's vanes or esthetic...?

As Chewy states, it’s both. I had this on my last build and it makes it really easy to clean up bugs and debris that normally would get stuck in the radiator. Protects against larger rocks as well. Might as well make it look pretty if you are going to have one. Looks really good with Everson’s nose aluminum when you look up in there. Very finished appearance. .:cool:

[Mike.Bray]

Studs and Remflex gaskets, can't get better than this especially with the 3" spread mounting for the headers.

FWIW the only thing "lock washers" are really good for is taking your money. If you break down the physics of a bolted connection and the forces involved you can easily see why these things contribute nothing and in some cases are actually detrimental to the joint. Stick with the ARP hardware as designed.

[cv2065]

Studs and Remflex gaskets, can't get better than this especially with the 3" spread mounting for the headers.

FWIW the only thing "lock washers" are really good for is taking your money. If you break down the physics of a bolted connection and the forces involved you can easily see why these things contribute nothing and in some cases are actually detrimental to the joint. Stick with the ARP hardware as designed.

Interestingly enough, the ARP nuts with washers loosened up a bit just during a few first starts. I get the tightening up after heat cycles but surprised me just a bit. I’ve got the ARP washers off to the side if I want to swap back out but interested to see how these lock washers perform.

[cv2065]

It's amazing how many things you have to nail down before you are actually able to jump into go-karting. How many threads, including mine, where the builder says they are ready to roll and they get stumped for a few days, or weeks, before it actually happens. So I said I'm ready to roll then....


There was a clutch disengagement issue that needed to be addressed
Then the overflow tank was too full and causing leaks at the cap
Securing side pipes
Cleaning up around the garage and under the car so that I didn't run over anything.
Pulling the car off of the jack stands
Tying off your fuel filler tube so it doesn't drag the ground
Double checking all fluids
Wrapping up any loose wiring around the car. Like my exposed horn wire that shorted and beeped on my go kart ride right as I was passing a few people. Although I did get a thumbs up!
Getting the wife to commit to coming out and doing a video without complaining



So once All of that was done, now we were able to make it happen. Here's my wife's video where she clearly didn't clean her lens and I'll be doing another one here shortly. Notice that 30-degree sloped driveway. Always fun....

https://youtube.com/shorts/Oeiip_jjgK4?feature=share

A couple more:
https://youtu.be/ICYq8OKlhMc
https://youtube.com/shorts/5oqonvp420Q?feature=share
https://youtube.com/shorts/y73fSJ8uB2I

[cv2065]

Post first drive and we are leak free! Couple of things:

First off, the ball jointed headers are amazing compared to what I had a few years ago. I don't think there will be any need for shims with these. I wanted to secure the pipes so that they don't bounce around and stress the headers, as I may take a few drives until the body goes on. I made this up from ACE Hardware. Inspiration came from Jeff Kleiner in a post I saw from a couple of years ago. Thanks Jeff!

https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/c28135ae-b4b0-42b4-87f2-e79e6085abf1.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/c28135ae-b4b0-42b4-87f2-e79e6085abf1.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

In the same thread, Jeff recommended the brass couplers instead of the mechanical nuts to secure the pipes on to the headers. Glad I found this as the last time I used the mechanical nuts the first time around and they freeze up with the heat and are a bear to get off. Thanks again Jeff. You can find them here: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000IZ49HC?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title

I purchased 2" 3/8-16 socket screws for the header to pipe bolts. I was giving some slack for possible shims, but doesn't look like those will be necessary so I'll get some 1.75" instead.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/a2c84522-3554-4775-9dc1-8f1885856df1.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/a2c84522-3554-4775-9dc1-8f1885856df1.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

Ceramic coat on the pipes looks fantastic after the first true heat cycle. Last build I was pulling the headers off right about now as the coating was a crinkled mess from poor application.

I think I'm also going to trade up my clutch MC for the next size up 7/8" bore size versus the 13/16" I currently have. After the go kart, I don't have a huge issue with the actuation, but the clutch pedal just sits too high and based on where the cyclinder is in the slave (right at the edge) I can't adjust it any more backwards. My MC threaded rod has moved back into the clevis a little further than I would like. I 'think' the next size up would get me close back to level with my brake pedal and give me more threading in the clevis. Currently don't really need the clutch stop I installed but maybe I will now.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/fd392d66-ff56-40a3-942d-2eed934b992b.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/fd392d66-ff56-40a3-942d-2eed934b992b.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

Well, this opens the door to the next phase of building. Plans are to get my turn signal installed, assemble the rest of the metal including the drop trunk, sound proof that and then start adding carpet. I'll get the undercoating on the body, install the side vents and start fitting the front chin spoiler. Again, thanks to Jessie for pointing that piece out as it's going to look awesome!

[cv2065]

I've had Mike Everson's nose aluminum purchased and powder coated for a while sitting in a box waiting to come out! Well, it's time. Look at this beauty. Goes so nicely with the radiator screen color and design. I'll be pulling this off before I install the body but like to get it fitted beforehand. Looks WAY better than the multiple pieces that come in the kit and highly functional as a giant air scoop. It's all in the details!

https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/312db813-af81-465f-b2da-05d25fbaf4e4.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/312db813-af81-465f-b2da-05d25fbaf4e4.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/a6df6d82-a412-4c72-a01d-896c92cf04da.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/a6df6d82-a412-4c72-a01d-896c92cf04da.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

[gbranham]

I have it as well. I didn't install it before putting the body on, and Mike's instructions say you can put it in through the nose. I tried and failed, so I'll leave that to Kleiner. :)

[egchewy79]

You can put it in through the nose. Just be careful on a painted car.

[Jeff Kleiner]

They usually need to have some trimming done to fit once the body is on.

Jeff

[Lidodrip]

I really like the single piece solution, it is a great finishing touch. Your all black look is awesome. I did not attempt to fit mine prior to body install, but I did find that I had to do a fair amount of trimming to get it to fit correctly with the body installed. I did install it through the nose and it was not easy - most of my scrapes and cuts have healed. I suspect once you have done a few, it becomes much easier.

James

[cv2065]

I did receive my new Tilton 7/8" MC and was going to swap it out with the 13/16" MC to get my clutch pedal down a bit as well as the threaded rod more engaged in the clevis, BUT, I fiddled around with it again and was able to get the correct adjustments. So I saved myself $100. The hole that I cut in the tunnel for my speaker gave me direct visual access and it was very easy to get the best pedal position based on the movement of the slave piston. I also ended up taking out my pedal stop for a little more clearance. I think I'll move the brake pedal up a bit to match the clutch. I'm considering dog earing the brake pedal pad on the bottom right side so that my heel doesn't catch while hitting the accelerator. Hitting both at the same time is not too cool when cruising. :cool:

I'll be putting another 12" x 15" diamond plate floor to the driver's side footbox like I had in my last build which enables your heels to glide back and forth when using the pedals. Right now they are catching a little on the KillMat, so driving isn't as smooth.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/3361d4ec-a83c-49f5-a002-ceda91891899.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/3361d4ec-a83c-49f5-a002-ceda91891899.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

[cv2065]

I want to get the rest of the metal and insulation done so that I can start making some progress on the rear carpeting and then the stereo/speaker system. The body undercoating, side grills and spoiler will be next in line and then I'll test my lighting system. Making progress!

I've had a couple more Go-kart sessions and am now satisfied that I don't have any leaks, so I buttoned up the rear metal. I had to drop the fuel tank in order to get the drop trunk installed. Not a big deal, just put a 12" 2x6 on the jack, centered it on the tank and slowly lowered it after I had unbolted it from the straps. I did have about 4 gallons in the tank but wasn't an issue. I did have to unhook my fuel lines as I didn't have enough slack to drop the tank far enough, but they reassembled with no issues. With AN fittings, I've started to use Seco 7 conical seals for added 'no leak' assurance. If there are any imperfections on the flare, these cure that issue without having to buy a new fitting. Some use them anyway, and I'm a fan of that club. You can get them for any size and I've bought from Pegasus Racing here:

https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productselection.asp?Product=3202

I ran out of rivets halfway through and found out that Summit has discontinued the larger headed (3/8") Ultimate black rivets for some reason, so needed to source elsewhere. Bought some from McMaster Carr. Their grip range was different but worked great. I used these:

https://www.mcmaster.com/catalog/131/3795/97526A320

The pin separated from the rivet into the gun much easier than the Summit version. The smaller size down not so good, even though they seemed to match up perfectly with the grip range needed. Metal all buttoned up:

https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/f80bd018-580c-4018-8c2c-28525a94f180.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/f80bd018-580c-4018-8c2c-28525a94f180.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

I did cut a larger panel for the fuel fitting side. With the small oval window that comes in the trunk panel, there really is no way to get a wrench on those fittings if you needed to from the topside. I used 10-32 rivnuts for the panel covers. I also created panels for the upper deck sides that FFR does not provide. Makes it look more finished and seals the entire area up much better. Credit to Paul on that one going back to his 20th anniversary build.

Cutting and installing the Killmatt takes some time. I also used some HVAC tape to clean it up some and seal some of the panel adjoining areas. If the trunk is not somewhat airtight it sucks all kinds of dirt and sand in while driving, so tried to make that a priority on the exterior with seam sealer and the interior with the insulation and HVAC tape. I also cut a couple of smaller aluminum fill ins around the crossbars of the drop trunk to get the tightest fitment.

All insulated up:

https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/74ea4c33-78bb-41d0-8b01-6b9e5eb3c2aa.png?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/74ea4c33-78bb-41d0-8b01-6b9e5eb3c2aa.png?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

[cv2065]

Really happy how it's all turning out. Only thing left in the engine compartment is to get the chrome Roush logos on the air cleaner and valve covers powder coated to red to match my gauges and hook up the power to my sound system as soon as it's installed. I also need to create a shorter ignition coil wire.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/e4508c79-be2f-4fe3-8f06-023c7b92ac6d.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/e4508c79-be2f-4fe3-8f06-023c7b92ac6d.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/c79a0259-d1d2-4fbf-bd4d-a5c830544ccc.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/c79a0259-d1d2-4fbf-bd4d-a5c830544ccc.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/04b0df03-cdfc-43fc-a9bb-1d2164e01df2.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/04b0df03-cdfc-43fc-a9bb-1d2164e01df2.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

[Higgybulin]

Really coming along brother!!!
Higgy

[rickster991]

That looks amazing!

[Blitzboy54]

That look so effin mean!!!


I love it

[JMD]

Those headers look amazing. I’m curious to see how they stand up after a lot of heat cycles.

Love the clutch stop design. I may steal that for my build.

Nice work, looking forward to seeing more progress!

[gbranham]

Looks awesome! I'm genuinely curious about something...why the black rivets in the trunk, only to be covered by Killmat and carpet?

Greg

[JMD]

Looks awesome! I'm genuinely curious about something...why the black rivets in the trunk, only to be covered by Killmat and carpet?

Greg

I was wondering about the same. The 'before' picture of the trunk looked amazing in the glossy black aluminum...almost show quality. And then you covered it all up! Seems like a lot of wasted effort and money to me, but whatever makes you happy!

[cv2065]

I was wondering about the same. The 'before' picture of the trunk looked amazing in the glossy black aluminum...almost show quality. And then you covered it all up! Seems like a lot of wasted effort and money to me, but whatever makes you happy!

The powder coated panels are more for protection of the metal on the outside versus the inside and for easy cleaning underneath. Getting a panel PC'd on one side is the same price as both due to the extra prep, so just did the entire panel. AND...the under car pictures are glorious. :cool:

Black rivets are what I used on the entire car, seen and unseen, so didn't want to buy two different kinds. And then there is the OCD thingy.....:p:

[gbranham]

And then there is the OCD thingy.....:p:

I feel you, my friend, and I suspected that's what you'd say. I have the same problem/disease/superpower. "Anything worth doing is worth doing right".

Greg

[Jeff Kleiner]

Looks awesome! I'm genuinely curious about something...why the black rivets in the trunk, only to be covered by Killmat and carpet?

Greg

Let me tell you about my buddy Bart who mirror finish polished BOTH SIDES OF EVERY SINGLE PANEL on his roadster and then installed interior and trunk carpeting :rolleyes: Actually my other buddy and I both think that being out in his shop polishing was a better alternative than being in the house with his (now ex) wife!

Jeff

[cv2065]

Let me tell you about my buddy Bart who mirror finish polished BOTH SIDES OF EVERY SINGLE PANEL on his roadster and then installed interior and trunk carpeting :rolleyes: Actually my other buddy and I both think that being out in his shop polishing was a better alternative than being in the house with his (now ex) wife!

Jeff

LOL. I think me and Bart might have a lot in common. :D

[cv2065]

Trunk carpeting is almost done. It was nice that the kit came with some of this, at least the basics. I had to order a little more from FFR to complete the sides and inside of the drop trunk. I will say that the FFR carpet is pretty nice stuff compared to what you can buy at Home Depot or Lowes. It's 20oz weight, plush, doesn't fray and vacuums nicely. It's a little more expensive but worth it IMO.

To stick it down I used the 3M 90 spray adhesive purchased from Lowes. I couldn't recall how messy this aerosol was, so I contemplated buying the gallon size of carpet adhesive brush on, but glad that I didn't. The 3M nozzle is very precise. You could literally spray a 1" bead of product if desired. Comes out in a web like spray and works great. Once I laid it down heavy, and then a light coat on the back of the carpet, I had just enough working time, so it tacked up and laid down nicely. Finished it off with a small roller that I had used for the sound proofing.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/d6f5447f-0029-4549-b4eb-4d836f15642f.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/d6f5447f-0029-4549-b4eb-4d836f15642f.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

[cv2065]

I got around to installing the i.e.427 turn signal assembly. Frank designed a really nice unit and is there to answer any questions about installation or wiring, so highly recommended.

First off, I had done some go-karting and had to remove the hub and loosen the pillow block screws. I had the hub on very lightly, so secure but still able to remove by hand with a little wiggling. I also installed my bellville washers into the steering shaft. Made it very tight, but I was still able to move it up and down with a little force. I didn't want to have to contend with these once the turn signal assembly and hub were installed. A light film of grease also helped.

Very straight forward installation. Once the turn signal hub and dash adaptor fit together and placed against the dash, as Frank suggests, I used a 6" 1/8" drill bit to make all 3 pilot holes. I didn't want to drill an actual hole for the wiring harness, so I just enlarged the steering column hole at the 7 o'clock position and the harness fit through easily and has about 1/4" clearance to the column.

I then removed the turn signal assembly and enlarged the holes to 1/4". The only thing I would mention is that if you have the CF dash and you enlarged the steering column hole like I did to pass the harness through, just have it far enough up to where it doesn't interfere with that 3rd mounting hole.

The black turn signal stalk matches the theme of the car so I'll be keeping it. I'll be using the horn function on the stalk as well. Hazards were sent to a separate button.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/a84ceb63-c71c-4634-baa4-bd99e2bc96b9.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/a84ceb63-c71c-4634-baa4-bd99e2bc96b9.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/db142fee-f058-4b32-b306-70cd10df00c8.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/db142fee-f058-4b32-b306-70cd10df00c8.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

Leveled the handle horizontally and once satisfied, snugged the nuts down. Here's a peek behind the dash at the backing plate.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/ecbab830-c2ff-4fff-8cce-8831926ef9e0.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/ecbab830-c2ff-4fff-8cce-8831926ef9e0.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

Wired it up tonight per Frank's instructions, aligning with the RF harness. Before I reinstall the hub and space it out 1/16", I'll test the lighting and then we should be good to go. Hopefully this is the last time that the dash will move and I'll go ahead and button up the under dash panel as well.

[cv2065]

Finishing up the lighting electrical, and pretty much the rest of it as well, and I did have an oversight that 'kind of' turned out to be a blessing in disguise? On my last build, I had the 4 tail lamps that didn't require the Trailer Light Converter, so now that I have the square tail lights, I totally forgot to install this. Perceptively an easy task UNLESS you've buttoned up the dash and installed your trunk metal like me. :rolleyes:

So...what do to. If I went the trunk route (ideal situation), I'd have to drop the gas tank again as I can't pull the harness through unless I unscrew the 3 harness cushion clamps that I have on both sides to where I can pull it down and do the surgery. Not a big deal but I just signed off on a leak free system and would have to uncouple my fuel lines, and it would still be somewhat of a challenge pushing it all back through once connected.

Second option would be to pull the dash. Again, not difficult but I just got my turn signal situated and I'd have to struggle with the steering column a bit to push it up so that the dash could flip down, and that particular harness is kind of buried with little working room and would be a hassle there as well. Of course, the idea is to not screw up anything that is currently working while trying to get this hooked up. ;)

Third option is to do it in the tunnel, which after some thought, I think is the best option anyway. Many have mentioned that if the trailer module goes out, whether it sits on the gas tank or in the dash, it will be a challenge to access, remove and replace. In this case, if I need to get to it, just remove the tunnel cover and its right there. I have quite a bit going on in there with my harness and speaker looms, so if I install it at the upper top of the tunnel side with 3M dual lock and wire loom, it should be shielded from the elements, etc.

So, how does this thing wire up? I found these schematics on past threads and added some labels as my printer is only shooting out B&W copies for the moment. One thing to note on the first schematic it says the purple wires are not needed but those wires will need to hook up from the harness to the converter via the red brake wire, but not on the output as it's a 5 to 4 converter. The purple wires and tan wires need to be doubled up when connecting from the harness to the converter. The black, yellow and white harness wires are singles.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/a4ddc054-aef1-4632-91f5-0018a1a95b6a.png?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/a4ddc054-aef1-4632-91f5-0018a1a95b6a.png?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/87c9b853-cf10-4659-8c56-ec9834c4e417.png?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/87c9b853-cf10-4659-8c56-ec9834c4e417.png?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

During the testing phase, I used WAGO connectors. Man these things are so easy to use, secure and they don't distort the wire, but I will be using Permaseal butt connectors for a water tight seal once testing is over. Once hooked up, here's what it looked like. Looks messy now but will clean up once butt connected and reinstall the wire loom. Then attach it all back to the tapped clamps.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/36cd0de4-7957-49bb-ade3-a1376e3db9be.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/36cd0de4-7957-49bb-ade3-a1376e3db9be.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

Happy to say that all of my lights worked the first time around. Tested the headlights, turn signals, brake lights, hazards and interior lights. Hazard button works like a champ. Again, used the WAGOs to hook up the front and back. I will need to make an adjustment on the brake light button at the pedal. It needs to come back a turn or two in order to actuate the brake light earlier.

I did have one casualty and that was clipping the wrong tan wire in the harness. You can see it in the pic. There are 3 tan wires in the harness. One is for the fuel pump and the other two are for the lighting. You'd think they would have chosen another color to differentiate. I thought that I had the correct two, but upon closer inspection, the fuel pump wire is one step higher in gauge than the taillight wires. Nothing a permseal butt connector can't fix but unnecessary work.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/1cd9cfbe-29b1-475c-aaf8-aed94b9e6395.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/1cd9cfbe-29b1-475c-aaf8-aed94b9e6395.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/ef02ab0d-5684-42b4-bdd7-4ae3b4aeedcd.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/ef02ab0d-5684-42b4-bdd7-4ae3b4aeedcd.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

Once I clean up this last bit of electrical, it's time to rivet in the back wall, complete the amplifier routing, speakers and carpet.

[cv2065]

Thought the red would be easier on the eyes but getting the U-Boat vibes....:p

https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/9cd5da57-3db8-4f65-b0eb-312007d188d5.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/9cd5da57-3db8-4f65-b0eb-312007d188d5.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

[danmas]

Finishing up the lighting electrical, and pretty much the rest of it as well, and I did have an oversight that 'kind of' turned out to be a blessing in disguise? On my last build, I had the 4 tail lamps that didn't require the Trailer Light Converter, so now that I have the square tail lights, I totally forgot to install this. Perceptively an easy task UNLESS you've buttoned up the dash and installed your trunk metal like me. :rolleyes:

So...what do to. If I went the trunk route (ideal situation), I'd have to drop the gas tank again as I can't pull the harness through unless I unscrew the 3 harness cushion clamps that I have on both sides to where I can pull it down and do the surgery. Not a big deal but I just signed off on a leak free system and would have to uncouple my fuel lines, and it would still be somewhat of a challenge pushing it all back through once connected.

Second option would be to pull the dash. Again, not difficult but I just got my turn signal situated and I'd have to struggle with the steering column a bit to push it up so that the dash could flip down, and that particular harness is kind of buried with little working room and would be a hassle there as well. Of course, the idea is to not screw up anything that is currently working while trying to get this hooked up. ;)

Third option is to do it in the tunnel, which after some thought, I think is the best option anyway. Many have mentioned that if the trailer module goes out, whether it sits on the gas tank or in the dash, it will be a challenge to access, remove and replace. In this case, if I need to get to it, just remove the tunnel cover and its right there. I have quite a bit going on in there with my harness and speaker looms, so if I install it at the upper top of the tunnel side with 3M dual lock and wire loom, it should be shielded from the elements, etc.

So, how does this thing wire up? I found these schematics on past threads and added some labels as my printer is only shooting out B&W copies for the moment. One thing to note on the first schematic it says the purple wires are not needed but those wires will need to hook up from the harness to the converter via the red brake wire, but not on the output as it's a 5 to 4 converter. The purple wires and tan wires need to be doubled up when connecting from the harness to the converter. The black, yellow and white harness wires are singles.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/a4ddc054-aef1-4632-91f5-0018a1a95b6a.png?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/a4ddc054-aef1-4632-91f5-0018a1a95b6a.png?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/87c9b853-cf10-4659-8c56-ec9834c4e417.png?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/87c9b853-cf10-4659-8c56-ec9834c4e417.png?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

During the testing phase, I used WAGO connectors. Man these things are so easy to use, secure and they don't distort the wire, but I will be using Permaseal butt connectors for a water tight seal once testing is over. Once hooked up, here's what it looked like. Looks messy now but will clean up once butt connected and reinstall the wire loom. Then attach it all back to the tapped clamps.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/36cd0de4-7957-49bb-ade3-a1376e3db9be.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/36cd0de4-7957-49bb-ade3-a1376e3db9be.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

Happy to say that all of my lights worked the first time around. Tested the headlights, turn signals, brake lights, hazards and interior lights. Hazard button works like a champ. Again, used the WAGOs to hook up the front and back. I will need to make an adjustment on the brake light button at the pedal. It needs to come back a turn or two in order to actuate the brake light earlier.

I did have one casualty and that was clipping the wrong tan wire in the harness. You can see it in the pic. There are 3 tan wires in the harness. One is for the fuel pump and the other two are for the lighting. You'd think they would have chosen another color to differentiate. I thought that I had the correct two, but upon closer inspection, the fuel pump wire is one step higher in gauge than the taillight wires. Nothing a permseal butt connector can't fix but unnecessary work.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/1cd9cfbe-29b1-475c-aaf8-aed94b9e6395.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/1cd9cfbe-29b1-475c-aaf8-aed94b9e6395.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/ef02ab0d-5684-42b4-bdd7-4ae3b4aeedcd.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/ef02ab0d-5684-42b4-bdd7-4ae3b4aeedcd.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

Once I clean up this last bit of electrical, it's time to rivet in the back wall, complete the amplifier routing, speakers and carpet.

I literally have the exact same configuration for testing. Once I know everything works I will button it up with real connectors.

It’s a good tool for temp testing…

[JMD]

Thought the red would be easier on the eyes but getting the U-Boat vibes....:p

https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/9cd5da57-3db8-4f65-b0eb-312007d188d5.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/9cd5da57-3db8-4f65-b0eb-312007d188d5.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

“Danger, Will Robinson, danger!!” ��

[cv2065]

As everyone says, 'it's been a while since I posted'..:p, but lots going on. I was focusing on getting the rest of my metal installed, it's just been so incredibly hot here. I keep saying I'm going to get some AC going on in the garage, even had the unit picked out, but never got around to it. Too busy on the car to bother with that...:cool:

Got the back wall metal in and cut out my holes for the Wet Sounds 6.5" speakers. I didn't want them obvious (as much as that is possible), so swapped out the silver speaker grills for black. 'Show Quality' black metal panels, WITH black rivets that I'm only going to cover up with insulation!

https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/b9c769a0-7c87-4d66-90f2-eb7b7a0fa488.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/b9c769a0-7c87-4d66-90f2-eb7b7a0fa488.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/f7c2782b-80d3-4770-bc99-d476495b34bb.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/f7c2782b-80d3-4770-bc99-d476495b34bb.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

Then came the rest of the insulation. The last time I used the Thermo Tec, which came in a large roll and this time I used the KilMat, which comes in smaller pieces. I found that I did the entire car in roughly 2.25 boxes which seemed a lot less waste than with the Thermo Tec. Product seems to be about the same quality.

The Breeze floor brackets for the seats were riveted directly to the floor and I cut the insulation around it. Metal to metal is the best and safest way to go!

https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/6600d327-d288-4312-9b6a-8865afd93838.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/6600d327-d288-4312-9b6a-8865afd93838.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/be8283b9-521f-4a6c-a933-9f54fb51ed22.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/be8283b9-521f-4a6c-a933-9f54fb51ed22.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

And of course, a Jeff Kleiner recommendation to spray paint the seams all the way around black so that you don't see it in the event that you cut or lay the carpet a little short.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/9ab060df-752a-4053-a2e7-0d3947376c62.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/9ab060df-752a-4053-a2e7-0d3947376c62.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

[gbranham]

Looking good! I enjoyed this part of my build quite a bit more than I thought I would.

[cv2065]

I looked into upgrading the FFR carpet but it really is hard to beat it. The pile is nice and thick, looks great when vacuumed and the price is right. I haven't had to open the manual in quite some time, but I couldn't remember how all of the carpet pieces laid out so opened it up. As with the trunk carpet I used the 3M 90 and proceeded in the following order:


Back Wall
Tunnel sides where I cut to size as I'll have the tunnel cover in matching diamond stitch upholstery as the seats
Moved to the front console panel and footbox sides
Floor carpet came last


And didn't forget to drill for my seat belt holes.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/a18bb083-65bf-452a-bcc4-e312dc02142b.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/a18bb083-65bf-452a-bcc4-e312dc02142b.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/53fdd258-b37b-4eec-b143-4d9374ef2db2.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/53fdd258-b37b-4eec-b143-4d9374ef2db2.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/972266ca-fed7-46bf-97e7-68d71323852b.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/972266ca-fed7-46bf-97e7-68d71323852b.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/222f5ce1-b942-4afb-bd0d-f1ed8521e9fb.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/222f5ce1-b942-4afb-bd0d-f1ed8521e9fb.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

I'd say that the front console and the passenger side footboxes are the most challenging, especially when you have some console adds like USB ports and cutoff switches. Getting the holes aligned perfectly with the 8-32 rivnuts can be challenging. I installed all of the face plates, then used finishing nails to mark where the screws would go through the carpet. Then I removed the face plates over the nails, pulled the carpet with nails intact and marked with a silver marker. Harbor freight has a hole cutting set for $7.99. Worked great.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/ae0329e0-06ae-471c-9802-4d2379ac91e4.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/ae0329e0-06ae-471c-9802-4d2379ac91e4.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

I did get too much of my face inside the passenger side footbox when laying down the 3M 90 aerosol glue, as you don't have a lot of working time, got a few good whiffs and felt like I was going to suffocate. That stuff is POTENT and lingers around so take precautions!

Carpet is done except for the cockpit door sides as I'm getting those bound at the top for a more finished look when getting in the car. I'm doing the same with some of the trunk carpet pieces so will be a week or so before they are in.

[cv2065]

I finished up the speaker system with the Wet Sounds Revo 6 (6.5" Speakers) for the rear cockpit and the Polk Audio DB522 5.25" speakers for the tunnel. They both are of course waterproof and can withstand higher temps that one might find in the tunnel. The Wet Sounds have a great reputation for mids and highs, which is really all you can reasonably expect to hear at speed unless you invest quite a bit in subs and amps. Pancake subs suck as they fire up and, in the Roadster, if you are going to have one, needs to fire to the rear, and there is not much room for that unless you do a custom box. Amplifier is an NVX VAD10004 v2. Here's what I got.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01EZWFNKA?ref_=ppx_hzsearch_conn_dt_b_fed_asin_ti tle_11
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01NBWN3WW?ref_=ppx_hzsearch_conn_dt_b_fed_asin_ti tle_12
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07NGRPL97?ref_=ppx_hzsearch_conn_dt_b_fed_asin_ti tle_1

I've shown the 6.5" speakers installed in previous photos but here are the 5.25" speakers in the tunnel. Looks pretty good and somewhat stealthy....

https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/d331ce97-531b-4b3c-a177-42831b46dfd0.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/d331ce97-531b-4b3c-a177-42831b46dfd0.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/372388a2-2e77-46a1-8028-1e922f5ef8cb.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/372388a2-2e77-46a1-8028-1e922f5ef8cb.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

[cv2065]

I did not intend to buy an NRG quick release initially, but I have a Momo Black Edition (Prototipo) steering wheel that I really like and was having a hard time implementing a horn button to finish it off as the horn mounting clip designed for the wheel does not really fit with the steering hub. I'm using the i.e.427 turn signal and horn on the stalk, so I don't need the button to function, just to finish off the wheel.

So I was going through some previous forum posts and found the NRG SRK400 that everyone was using and thought that might give me enough play in the front of the wheel to fit the horn button, and I was right.

As in other posts, the quick release needs to be modified. Both NRG adaptors to the wheel and to steering hub need to be cut down and modified to fit. The metal is soft and I used a hack saw on one side and a grinder on the other. One thing I learned is that when you take apart the NRG quick release, there is a little spring that gives tension to the retaining button and it will fly out. Don't let that fly out or you'll be like me looking for hours on the floor to locate it. :rolleyes: When putting it back together I did it inside of a zip lock bag in case I fat fingered it again and it wanted to fly around. Easy to do just need the patience and don't rush.

It came out really nice and I'm very happy that I went that route. A removable steering wheel is cool too. I got mine in red for a little more splash of color to match my gauges.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/9b66f986-04c9-439f-a8f0-3a0f9e27ee4e.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/9b66f986-04c9-439f-a8f0-3a0f9e27ee4e.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/a3eaea5d-6e12-4d41-969e-ba278a550051.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/a3eaea5d-6e12-4d41-969e-ba278a550051.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/e1ad02cd-1fc0-45aa-9b03-75c3807ce6e8.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/e1ad02cd-1fc0-45aa-9b03-75c3807ce6e8.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/661c80e7-d539-4734-b0c2-b1d6fe309285.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/661c80e7-d539-4734-b0c2-b1d6fe309285.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

[cv2065]

Next up is to start my body mods like the louvers, front chin spoiler and Herculiner on the inside of the body

[danmas]

This is a great mod. I have the I.e.427 turn signal as well as the nrg. I haven’t figured out how to do the modification yet as I haven’t even really looked at it. Do you have any more details on what you did?

Great looking ride…

[i.e.427]

This is a great mod. I have the I.e.427 turn signal as well as the nrg. I haven’t figured out how to do the modification yet as I haven’t even really looked at it.

We make a billet hub for the NRG SRK-400 and another for the Motion Raceworks 15-270. They can be purchased when ordering the turn signal switch or after as an upgrade.

Frank

[cv2065]

We make a billet hub for the NRG SRK-400 and another for the Motion Raceworks 15-270. They can be purchased when ordering the turn signal switch or after as an upgrade.

Frank

Definitely would have went for this if I had known I was going with a quick release earlier.

[Blitzboy54]

That’s all looking really sharp. The ascetics are on point.

[cv2065]

Finishing up the carpet in the back before I start on the body. As with the last build and following Paul's lead from many years ago, I think finishing off the trunk upper area with custom metal, insulation and carpet makes it complete and also seals the area a little more. Came out nicely.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/1ddc71f6-ca95-464c-a457-7da34c42f55b.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/1ddc71f6-ca95-464c-a457-7da34c42f55b.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/ef58a6f3-d246-4064-a555-2df7f6e40ea1.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/ef58a6f3-d246-4064-a555-2df7f6e40ea1.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

[cv2065]

Following Blitzboy's lead, I bought one of these fiberglass spoilers from Backdraft. Interesting piece as the fitment to the FFR body is great, but then not so great. If you push the spoiler up as far as it will go, it aligns with the curves of the front end very well but is about 1/2" too high above the oil cooler opening lip. it could be trimmed, but not sure yet. I think it looks better aligned with that opening and therefore sitting a little lower on the front end but also will give up that much in clearance, so have to do some additional measurements.

Based on the pics, I think they may have changed the center of the chin spoiler design based on what I'm seeing in Jessie's thread as there is no lip that goes into the oil cooler opening. I haven't cut anything yet, just aligning the initial position, but am thinking this looks to be the best position. I'd like to have it removable if necessary as well. I'm not sure if Backdraft makes theirs removable or not. If anyone has any suggestions or seeing something I'm not, feel free.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/a985aeca-d6fa-4f8c-b09e-b4d4024e2b6b.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/a985aeca-d6fa-4f8c-b09e-b4d4024e2b6b.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/8ac3db8c-e73b-40f5-8368-da9acc10a241.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/8ac3db8c-e73b-40f5-8368-da9acc10a241.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/1d5d6bd4-f098-46a2-a38b-5f5591d4b79f.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/1d5d6bd4-f098-46a2-a38b-5f5591d4b79f.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/6617b833-eccf-48d1-aa54-865bae244811.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/6617b833-eccf-48d1-aa54-865bae244811.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

[Blitzboy54]

I don't think it's any different. Here is a picture of mine before I started modifying it (or just after I started to but remember to stop and take a picture). I removed where I had the silver lines. That created a better fit for the lip on the lower oil cooler that I ultimately removed. One of the bigger differences between the BD and FFR bodies is the oil cooler. Ultimately its up to the end user but I felt it worked best by removing material around the cooler to sort of create a wrap around.

This picture is a little deceiving. The hood scoop is sitting on the hood just behind it giving the impression of material being on the spoiler that actually isn't there.

No matter what it will require both trimming and adding of at least some material either fiberglass or filler.... or both

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=213068&d=1745700985

[cv2065]

I don't think it's any different. Here is a picture of mine before I started modifying it (or just after I started to but remember to stop and take a picture). I removed where I had the silver lines. That created a better fit for the lip on the lower oil cooler that I ultimately removed. One of the bigger differences between the BD and FFR bodies is the oil cooler. Ultimately its up to the end user but I felt it worked best by removing material around the cooler to sort of create a wrap around.

This picture is a little deceiving. The hood scoop is sitting on the hood just behind it giving the impression of material being on the spoiler that actually isn't there.

No matter what it will require both trimming and adding of at least some material either fiberglass or filler.... or both

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=213068&d=1745700985

In my first fitment, I see where you have the lines and I was thinking of cutting in that same area. If you push the spoiler up as far as it will go, the contours align really well, but as you stated, it's just the spoiler lip sits too high on the oil cooler opening by about 1/2". I'm going to find out tomorrow how that would look if it was trimmed down. What area did you add back in with fiberglass/filler? You referring to the imperfections on the mold?

Ironically, Backdraft is out of these chin spoilers again. Popular piece.:cool:

[Blitzboy54]

In my first fitment, I see where you have the lines and I was thinking of cutting in that same area. If you push the spoiler up as far as it will go, the contours align really well, but as you stated, it's just the spoiler lip sits too high on the oil cooler opening by about 1/2". I'm going to find out tomorrow how that would look if it was trimmed down. What area did you add back in with fiberglass/filler? You referring to the imperfections on the mold?

Ironically, Backdraft is out of these chin spoilers again. Popular piece.:cool:



I haven't yet. There is a gap between the bottom of oil cooler and where I trimmed the spoiler. I asked how best to fill it in and Jeff mercifully told me to sit this one out and he would deal with it.


https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=213109&d=1745779891

In my opinion this gave me the best fit despite the gap. When done I see it mating right up to the cooler. You can see up close it will need some filling and sanding generally

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=213110&d=1745779891

But for a rough fit I think it looks right.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=215069&d=1749925663

[cv2065]

I see. So if that area is glassed over and smoothed out at the bottom of the oil cooler hole, then you want to make yours permanent? Wouldn't you need to do the entire thing at that point? I was thinking of getting a larger piece of rubber and cutting it out to the shape of the spoiler and making it removable. More to do tomorrow.

[Blitzboy54]

It will still be “removable” (would just close the gaps). I don’t see how you can legitimately protect the paint underneath from wear. So by removable I mean potentially if I have to take it off in order to get on a tow truck or something. If I tried to make it optional I think there would be unavailable paint damage under it. Probably just little scuffs but it would still be there even with gasket material which I may explore using too. Curious what you come up with

I traded some messages with Erik, when he did his he made it permanent. For now this makes the most sense to me.

[cv2065]

I’m thinking a rubber gasket and maybe clear PPF would protect it once fit properly. We’ll see.

[cv2065]

Still fooling around with the front spoiler, but wanted to take it for a spin today and it ran glorious, even in this oven baked heat wave that we've got going on. But since I have all of my cockpit carpeting in, I wanted to protect it from heel abuse. I won't have a floor mat on the driver's side, but as with my last build, I replaced it with a 1/4" thick section of aluminum diamond plate, cut to fit the area. It not only looks great, but gives me better clutch action as my heel slides versus fighting the carpet or a mat. Unless you have the mat secured to the floor it can bunch up and cause a safety issue.

Dog eared it at the top left to follow the tube and cut to size. Sawzall and metal sanding disc made easy work of it. Looks great and doesn't move at all.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/17701d62-4864-4871-a7f3-9565ffe6396c.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/17701d62-4864-4871-a7f3-9565ffe6396c.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

Tied up some detail work in the cockpit with a very cool red/carbon Momo horn that fits tightly into the hole once you break off two of the 4 plastic claws. thought I might need some silicone but no. I also scored a very cool Roush logo to finish off the theme.

I didn't get a whole lot of debris in the car this time so I must have sealed her up right. ;)

https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/c2fae70d-5d11-44f3-bde7-043b9fbfc461.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/c2fae70d-5d11-44f3-bde7-043b9fbfc461.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/f66c60fd-3a85-4d2a-83b5-34296b4af331.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/f66c60fd-3a85-4d2a-83b5-34296b4af331.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

Just waiting on my tunnel top from the upholstery people, then I can tie that up and hook up my e-brake for the final time. Unfortunately, the tunnel fabric that I received from Intatrim wasn't wide enough to cover the top by about .75" on one side and 1.25" on the other, so had to reach back out and see if they will send me another piece cut to fit.

[BadAsp427]

Looking Great Chad... I'm lurking around...

[danmas]

I do love that black and red motif Chad.

[BadAsp427]

Thought the red would be easier on the eyes but getting the U-Boat vibes....:p

https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/9cd5da57-3db8-4f65-b0eb-312007d188d5.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/9cd5da57-3db8-4f65-b0eb-312007d188d5.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

This is what I did.... I really like it because, as you say, it is easy on the eyes in the dark...

217138

[Mike.Bray]

This is what I did.... I really like it because, as you say, it is easy on the eyes in the dark...

217138

Similar for us.

217168

[cv2065]

Well, starting to button up everything to get the body back on for the last time. My tunnel top cover is going to take 2-4 weeks to produce according to Intatrim. Could be worse but they cut the fabric short on both ends and state that is the measurements from their template. Wonder if they could have cut it from an MKV template? Anyhow, hope they get that worked out for future orders, but won't delay me for paint. Sometimes it's a challenge when you deal with suppliers overseas. It will be worth it though.

Finally got all of my carpet done. I had the X pieces at the door frames bound to look finished. I also did not fold over my carpet when doing the drop trunk so I had those pieces bound as well. Actually looks cool. I also put carpeting over my fuel pump and sender covers as they will get scratched up over time if left bare.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/5dd94e9e-33da-4d8e-9c78-65ea96dcb0fc.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/5dd94e9e-33da-4d8e-9c78-65ea96dcb0fc.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/86808732-6668-4078-bbf9-062211d8bba6.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/86808732-6668-4078-bbf9-062211d8bba6.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

Found a cool circle cutting tool set at Harbor Freight. Cut right through the carpet for a perfect circle for the screw holes without having to use a box cutter or screwdriver.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/cc00be27-0e49-4cbd-91c7-6f73a8b99e02.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/cc00be27-0e49-4cbd-91c7-6f73a8b99e02.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

H3R fire extinguisher mount was next. This H3R unit not only matches the blacked out theme but came with a very cool bracket that fit perfectly. A couple of 10-32 Rivnuts and I'm in business. By the way, these WetSound speakers are crazy loud for mids and highs. I had them only turned up half way and I could easily hear the music over the pipes at 30-40mph. Now just have to make sure I am not blasting at stop lights. :p

https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/c4c2f6d6-ea87-4173-b15d-6aac93476cf1.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/c4c2f6d6-ea87-4173-b15d-6aac93476cf1.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

I've been also working on getting the holes drilled for my roll bar. Finally got the stretch correct on those bars and doesn't take much to get it aligned and installed. Love that Breeze rollbar. Perfect height, thickness and the raked look is awesome! Can't decide whether to get it powder coated before I fit it on the car or afterwards. I did it before last time and just taped it up during fitting to avoid scratching the PC. Might do the same.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/013f4161-0585-4d22-bd0f-aa5116ac1d9d.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/013f4161-0585-4d22-bd0f-aa5116ac1d9d.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

Got my trunk struts almost installed. I'm probably going to face both of them inboard of the roll bar mounts as I have roughly shown in the picture. Based on a post I saw from Jeff, the angle shouldn't impact the operation.

I'm also going to get a cover of some kind for my amp to make it all look clean and and inconspicuous.

Last thing on the punch list before body install is to undercoat the body, fit my louvers as soon as they get back from powdercoat, and install the seat belt bezels. I'll wait until the body is back on for the lighting so that I get my wiring lengths correct. Good times!

[cv2065]

Finally at the stage where I can start talking through color. I plan to be done building for paint by the end of Sept at the very latest. I've already slated November for my paint date with Mike at Spotlight Customs. So let's look at the paint option that are up for consideration.

So first, we have option #1. I know black is hard to keep clean but it looks so sinister. Deep black with Race Red stripes.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/dbaa286b-ba4e-4f45-aa89-bf08f1df30b5.webp?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/dbaa286b-ba4e-4f45-aa89-bf08f1df30b5.webp?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/638c0580-5634-4385-b306-1ce8c9021cf4.webp?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/638c0580-5634-4385-b306-1ce8c9021cf4.webp?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/64210a8c-ad3f-487b-8964-5840cbb80101.webp?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/64210a8c-ad3f-487b-8964-5840cbb80101.webp?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

Here's a different version with red pinstripes. Need the red in some way to pick up the gauges and belts in the car. Minus the meatball. Although, that meatball looks really cool....

https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/61b640f2-8cc9-4867-b82b-caead7c851d6.png?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/61b640f2-8cc9-4867-b82b-caead7c851d6.png?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/4aa5332b-60f1-4fdb-b730-f7f3a844b736.png?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/4aa5332b-60f1-4fdb-b730-f7f3a844b736.png?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

[cv2065]

Now here is a Race Red with Grigio Lynx Metallic stripes with black outline.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/7d0c9309-0cd9-4de2-93db-f2b1158f66eb.png?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/7d0c9309-0cd9-4de2-93db-f2b1158f66eb.png?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/bc36fbec-5cf0-46f6-a2d4-f01002bca5de.png?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/bc36fbec-5cf0-46f6-a2d4-f01002bca5de.png?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

And one of my favorite contenders, the Race Red with Magnetic Grey stripes and black pin stripes. That front spoiler is SICK!!!

https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/0b2de0c5-6461-4c1a-9fed-2bf582c49e00.png?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/0b2de0c5-6461-4c1a-9fed-2bf582c49e00.png?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

[cv2065]

Then there is the Designo Selenite Gray with Race Red stripes and jet black pin and center stripes:

https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/cd03bed6-bca9-4d9a-bb3c-d4b502f5725b.png?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/cd03bed6-bca9-4d9a-bb3c-d4b502f5725b.png?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/3558a1ac-8adb-469b-8a9b-c8eb8163126b.png?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/3558a1ac-8adb-469b-8a9b-c8eb8163126b.png?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/ce2e1c4a-ae6a-47ad-a59c-b45a73e02e49.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/ce2e1c4a-ae6a-47ad-a59c-b45a73e02e49.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

And the inspiration for my wheels, Justin Schulz's car ....solid color Magnetic Grey

https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/f67d5f9f-684c-41e7-a37d-9ab8aa6ccbba.png?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/f67d5f9f-684c-41e7-a37d-9ab8aa6ccbba.png?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

[danmas]

I love the black and red. So cool. However. Justin’s car was my inspiration and my muse (in terms of color). Then Jesse started flinging colors around all willy nilly and sent me in a different direction. Regardless, they all look fantastic and I’m sure you will crush it. Lot of words to say I’m absolutely no help…

[Jeff Kleiner]

Hey Chad! Hard to go wrong with black with red stripes. The red with grays look a whole lot like what I did for George Ligon and Carl Emery. Be sure you look at an actual spray out of race red…it goes a little pink/orange when compared to some others. A few thoughts on the satin black/gloss black stripe combo. You may know that I did my old Mk3 in a satin/matte black with gloss stripes—-Originally it was just going to be temporary with my plan being to tear it down after the first driving season, touch up the bodywork and give it "real" paint but that never happened due to being too busy doing cars for others to allow time for my own and it was still wearing the same when I sold it 16 years later!—-Cautions, some of which Mike may concur with. It’s kind of a PIA for the painter since he will not be able to easily correct any flaws in the matte or satin finish after spraying it. If you attempt to sand out any dirt or dust or take out a run or sag that area have a different sheen and will show unlike with a conventional gloss finish where you can make your correction and polish. The only way to make a correction is to fix it and then respray the whole works (while hoping that it comes out perfect this time!). When done it’s not really easy to live with and keep looking good. The satin/matte shows fingerprints, sweat stains from your arm on the door top, splatters from road grime, etc. as well as water spots. At first it might seem that finish would be easy to care for but in reality the opposite is the reality. It's not as simple as just giving a swipe with detail spray like is the case with a gloss finish. I got tired of it real quickly, but that's me. Don't think I'm trying to discourage you, just trying to make you aware of the reality of what it takes to both do it as well as live with it.

Cheers!

Jeff

[Blitzboy54]

When it comes to color schemes Backdraft just gets it.

[cv2065]

Hey Chad! Hard to go wrong with black with red stripes. The red with grays look a whole lot like what I did for George Ligon and Carl Emery. Be sure you look at an actual spray out of race red…it goes a little pink/orange when compared to some others. A few thoughts on the satin black/gloss black stripe combo. You may know that I did my old Mk3 in a satin/matte black with gloss stripes—-Originally it was just going to be temporary with my plan being to tear it down after the first driving season, touch up the bodywork and give it "real" paint but that never happened due to being too busy doing cars for others to allow time for my own and it was still wearing the same when I sold it 16 years later!—-Cautions, some of which Mike may concur with. It’s kind of a PIA for the painter since he will not be able to easily correct any flaws in the matte or satin finish after spraying it. If you attempt to sand out any dirt or dust or take out a run or sag that area have a different sheen and will show unlike with a conventional gloss finish where you can make your correction and polish. The only way to make a correction is to fix it and then respray the whole works (while hoping that it comes out perfect this time!). When done it’s not really easy to live with and keep looking good. The satin/matte shows fingerprints, sweat stains from your arm on the door top, splatters from road grime, etc. as well as water spots. At first it might seem that finish would be easy to care for but in reality the opposite is the reality. It's not as simple as just giving a swipe with detail spray like is the case with a gloss finish. I got tired of it real quickly, but that's me. Don't think I'm trying to discourage you, just trying to make you aware of the reality of what it takes to both do it as well as live with it.

Cheers!

Jeff

Great feedback. Thanks Jeff! I have seen that Matte black on a Charger before and didn’t look like it was holding up very well for the reasons you outlined. I suppose a PPF wrap could help, but I’m putting that on the back burner. Carl and I chose that Carmine Red before as you say, the Race Red looked great in the daylight but kind of orangey at night. Looks phenomenal in bright sunlight though. That Magnetic grey with red accents looks so good too. Decisions Decisions! :p

[chmhasy]

I am steeling that diamond plate in the cockpit idea. thank you

[JMD]

I am steeling that diamond plate in the cockpit idea. thank you

Me too...but not exactly. It inspired me to think in that direction, but I wound up going with a diamond plate rubber floor mat instead of aluminum and am loving it. Feel free to check out the link to my build thread below for the rubber variation on the diamond plate theme.

I'm drooling over that magnetic grey with no stripe or scoop. I'm going the no stripe or scoop direction anyway, so I'm partial to it but love the dark grey/black trim combo.

[chmhasy]

Me too...but not exactly. It inspired me to think in that direction, but I wound up going with a diamond plate rubber floor mat instead of aluminum and am loving it. Feel free to check out the link to my build thread below for the rubber variation on the diamond plate theme.
.

thank you I do like the rubber easier to cut

[cadtdi]

I like Chad's idea of using diamond plate in the driver's footwell...

Like JDM, I am going to try the same with a rubber mat...my carpet has taken a beating an bunches up on entry/exit..

Thanks!
.c
.

[danmas]

For those following along:

This is the link for the rubber mat (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?49095-John-in-KC-Roadster-Build-Thread&p=588037&viewfull=1#post588037)

I think I’m going to try a bit thicker rubber mat. I have some excess gym mat tiles for my work out room that will cut down nicely. Will share if it works…

[cv2065]

For those following along:

This is the link for the rubber mat (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?49095-John-in-KC-Roadster-Build-Thread&p=588037&viewfull=1#post588037)

I think I’m going to try a bit thicker rubber mat. I have some excess gym mat tiles for my work out room that will cut down nicely. Will share if it works…

The rubber looks good too. My only concern would be the friction. The reason I looked at the plate was to give my heel a surface to slide on for the clutch. I’m not sure if the rubber would hang up on the sole of your shoe or not.

[cv2065]

Still undecided on the color. I think I'll either decide between the Race Red with Magnetic Grey stripes and black pins or the Magnetic grey with race red stripes and black pins. Well, still have a little while to decide. So in the mean time, I keep working. I did speak to Mike at Spotlight Customs and he's going to handle the front air splitter for me, so I'll take that off my plate for now.

Started on my louvers. I wanted to be sure that I get them level this time, as last time I was off 3/16" on one side and once you see it, well you know the rest. The holes this time from FFR were somewhat better but need some work. The driver's side is about 1/2" too short in the width department but the passenger side looked pretty good. Level is the name of the game and I think I've got it right where I want it before I start to carve away. My tape marks 7-1/4" in width top to bottom and roughly 4-3/4" in height, left to right. I might be 1/16" off on the height, but I'm good to go. Angles on each side are relatively the same as well as the distance from the door frame. I'll be using sheets of sandpaper for the final details as well as my Dremel and drum sander for the larger pieces. I'll also update this post once they are adhered.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/383e48ed-b166-4e53-9d56-1966af014294.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/383e48ed-b166-4e53-9d56-1966af014294.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/e9dbc53a-4220-4f54-9260-4e1884e99268.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/e9dbc53a-4220-4f54-9260-4e1884e99268.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

Louvers were powder coated gloss black and I set them up with brackets, lock washers and metal studs. I cut about 30% off of the metal studs so that they remained hidden. I also used a nut on each stud to set the louver away from the body while the HSRF dries. As an FYI, I had drilled my louvers a little too close to the opening where you could see some of the screws. That would bother me until the end of time so ordered another set from **********, as everyone else was out, and they came in less than a week. I know, I know...just sayin.' :D

https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/89d75042-d107-4e37-977e-26a9d496867a.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/89d75042-d107-4e37-977e-26a9d496867a.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

Here's a link to the McMaster studs: https://www.mcmaster.com/catalog/131/3638/97590A567

[cv2065]

I saw this skid plate done by Magic Marto and thought it was a great idea. My trans clears the 4" tube by about 3/16", so thought I'd pick up one of these to protect that oil pan! It arrived a few weeks ago and is of very high quality. I'm thinking maybe 3/16" thick aluminum with a nice design. When working by yourself it took a little time for placement and tapping the screws, as I had to keep going back and forth with little room to work. Ensure that you are not interfering with your oil drain plugs and the rest is pretty much straight forward.

The kit includes everything you need, drill bit, 10-32 tap and templates. Here in the pics I have it loosely screwed in as it was removed shortly thereafter to get powder coated gloss black. Another one of those, "no one will see it but me" deals. :cool:

https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/2b2bb3ba-7627-4f18-9a5a-9a126c5d24e3.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/2b2bb3ba-7627-4f18-9a5a-9a126c5d24e3.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/89c4f439-f8ed-405a-a44b-cf0b48969f06.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/89c4f439-f8ed-405a-a44b-cf0b48969f06.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

[Its Bruce]

Pro tip for Amazon Prime members: adhesive ready studs may be cheaper and faster here (https://a.co/d/eYGQeqN).

[cv2065]

Pro tip for Amazon Prime members: adhesive ready studs may be cheaper and faster here (https://a.co/d/eYGQeqN).

I'd say so. And you get a wing nut to boot! Nice find!

[Jeff Kleiner]

Chad,
Did you cut those louver holes yet or just measure and mark? If the latter you need to be aware that the angle that FFR cuts does not match the angle of the fabricated louvers so you might want to revisit your layout before cutting.

Jeff

[cv2065]

Chad,
Did you cut those louver holes yet or just measure and mark? If the latter you need to be aware that the angle that FFR cuts does not match the angle of the fabricated louvers so you might want to revisit your layout before cutting.

Jeff

Hey Jeff. I haven't cut anything yet. I measured the angle at roughly 13 to 13.5 degrees on both sides. Does that sound in the ballpark? The template doesn't really help much there.

[Jeff Kleiner]

Hey Jeff. I haven't cut anything yet. I measured the angle at roughly 13 to 13.5 degrees on both sides. Does that sound in the ballpark? The template doesn't really help much there.

I made a template 8-10 years ago and been using it ever since for the upgraded louvers. Just checked and the angle is 19.5-20 degrees.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=196154&d=1532359532

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=196155&d=1709000253

I'm sending you a PM.

Jeff

[cv2065]

I made a template 8-10 years ago and been using it ever since for the upgraded louvers. Just checked and the angle is 19.5-20 degrees.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=196154&d=1532359532

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=196155&d=1709000253

I'm sending you a PM.

Jeff

Wow, it's way off. Thanks for the help!

[JMD]

That extra amount of angle on the vent opening gives a more aggressive look...like its going faster just standing still. Ready to attack! like it! Making note to do the same for mine. Thanks for that, Jeff.

[Mike.Bray]

https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/2b2bb3ba-7627-4f18-9a5a-9a126c5d24e3.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/2b2bb3ba-7627-4f18-9a5a-9a126c5d24e3.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/89c4f439-f8ed-405a-a44b-cf0b48969f06.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/89c4f439-f8ed-405a-a44b-cf0b48969f06.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

I've not seen one of these skid plates in person but a couple of observations/questions.

It looks like those are flat head screws but the plate isn't countersunk deep enough. I think if you ever test it on a speed bump you're going to leave the heads of those screws behind. They need to be countersunk so they are below the surface of the plate which they don't look like they are.

There's a tab on the leading edge that is bent up which makes sense. I don't understand the tab on the rear that is bent down. Again, dragging on a speed bump how is this going to work?

Maybe I'm missing something here.

[cv2065]

I've not seen one of these skid plates in person but a couple of observations/questions.

It looks like those are flat head screws but the plate isn't countersunk deep enough. I think if you ever test it on a speed bump you're going to leave the heads of those screws behind. They need to be countersunk so they are below the surface of the plate which they don't look like they are.

There's a tab on the leading edge that is bent up which makes sense. I don't understand the tab on the rear that is bent down. Again, dragging on a speed bump how is this going to work?

Maybe I'm missing something here.

All the screws are loosely fitted as I was taking off for PC. They are countersunk when fully screwed in. The area that folds down is still flush with the body of the plate, so no additional interference. I think it’s designed to give the bellhousing lip a little protection there too. Nicely designed IMO.

[magicmarto]

Correct, the rear tab is there to deflect down and away any road debris that you may encounter. It also does protect the lip of the bell housing!!! This skid plate kit is a great way to protect your investment!!! Think of it as cheap insurance on a large dollar item(s).

[Mike.Bray]

I did it the old fashion way and made sure everything is tucked up well above the frame rails.

[cv2065]

I did it the old fashion way and made sure everything is tucked up well above the frame rails.

Unfortunately, that won't stop road debris. Oil pans are tough, but not so much at 80mph. I was looking at the Backdraft cars. Their oil pans are below the rails by at least an inch. Not good.

[cv2065]

As I was warming up the dremel up to start the carving on the louver holes, Mr. Kleiner put up the STOP sign and offered to send me his template for the louver holes. Man am I glad he did that. Thanks Jeff!! I didn't have this template when I cut them the last time and I made a 3/4" error on the driver's side hole that only I could really see, but it was there.

I did have the vertical aligned properly on the current cutouts, just not the horizontal or the angles. In fact, the holes, based on Jeff's template, were severely undersized by almost 3/4" on each side at the widest point and the angle was off by 6-7 degrees. Maybe I got a Friday body, as these holes were jacked up!

My method to open these up was first to align the template, ensure that it was completely level and then outline the template with a marker for cutting. Don't mind the 7.25" writing, as that changed with the template.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/35c75398-30db-4ce4-a04f-0d97cde1b8fc.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/35c75398-30db-4ce4-a04f-0d97cde1b8fc.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/2320ade2-6a62-42a4-aca7-164891df7191.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/2320ade2-6a62-42a4-aca7-164891df7191.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

I then took my 3" cutoff wheel and carved out the large pieces and made the hole wider to the template outline. Not all the way to the outline in case the blade jumped, but about 1/4" away. Just look at that jaggedy mess!!

https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/470d62c6-e2de-4cfc-9725-0efe1346ef68.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/470d62c6-e2de-4cfc-9725-0efe1346ef68.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

I then took my Dremel with barrel sander bit and grinded down to within 1/16" - 1/32" of the outline. I also defined my corners. Finished it all off with hand sanding, using an 80 grit sandpaper that slowly took layers off until I had it just about perfect. The holes came out AWESOME!!! Thanks again Jeff!

https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/82b375f6-4627-4dcb-9613-9bd49f08bac8.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/82b375f6-4627-4dcb-9613-9bd49f08bac8.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/0d007673-761f-4682-b3e2-aeda996c21d1.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/0d007673-761f-4682-b3e2-aeda996c21d1.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

More pics tomorrow when I install the louvers.

[cv2065]

I've had these bezels for a while. I ordered them from Mike Everson at Replica Parts and had them powder coated to a gloss black finish. I like these as they only have two holes instead of 4 and easier to install. Well, they are supposed to be. Not sure why but I spent WAY too much time on these. First, I thought I could tap the 3/4" tube and screw them in there but that was too low for the hole. I then thought about rivnuts but that's a lot of big holes in a small area. I decided just to drill holes for 10-32" screws and use a nyloc to secure. I'm never going to pull these out anyway, but they are done and look good. Note to self, get this done before carpeting.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/b794bf7e-6d3a-4aca-8e9a-45fed252c4c0.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/b794bf7e-6d3a-4aca-8e9a-45fed252c4c0.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

My windshield frame also came back from powder coat and looks great. Assembly was fairly easy and I'm using the Whitby's stainless steel brackets for the side arms. I'll be flipping over the body tomorrow and start painting the underbody.

[Blitzboy54]

I've had these bezels for a while. I ordered them from Mike Everson at Replica Parts and had them powder coated to a gloss black finish. I like these as they only have two holes instead of 4 and easier to install. Well, they are supposed to be. Not sure why but I spent WAY too much time on these. First, I thought I could tap the 3/4" tube and screw them in there but that was too low for the hole. I then thought about rivnuts but that's a lot of big holes in a small area. I decided just to drill holes for 10-32" screws and use a nyloc to secure. I'm never going to pull these out anyway, but they are done and look good.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/b794bf7e-6d3a-4aca-8e9a-45fed252c4c0.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/b794bf7e-6d3a-4aca-8e9a-45fed252c4c0.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

My windshield frame also came back from powder coat and looks great. Assembly was fairly easy and I'm using the Whitby's stainless steel brackets for the side arms. I'll be flipping over the body tomorrow and start painting the underbody.

Before completely re assembling your windshield with the side legs double check the Whitby inserts. I used them on my last build without any issues. This time the holes didn’t line up right. Had to take everything back apart and cut the inserts in half. The upper 2 holes lined up and the bottom 2 did as well but one set was out of alignment when it was one piece.

Maybe the locations of the arm holes have moved or maybe their machining specs have drifted. Either way I took some pics and will be sending them an email. It was a pretty spendy part considering what it is and should fit.

Good luck Chad. Car looks great.

[cv2065]

Before completely re assembling your windshield with the side legs double check the Whitby inserts. I used them on my last build without any issues. This time the holes didn’t line up right. Had to take everything back apart and cut the inserts in half. The upper 2 holes lined up and the bottom 2 did as well but one set was out of alignment when it was one piece.

Maybe the locations of the arm holes have moved or maybe their machining specs have drifted. Either way I took some pics and will be sending them an email. It was a pretty spendy part considering what it is and should fit.

Good luck Chad. Car looks great.

Thanks Jessie. I meant to check the alignment before I put it all together but forgot. As with you, the last time I used them the holes aligned perfectly.