BUDFIVE’s CenTex Build-Leaking Boot, Height and Alignment

[BUDFIVE]

NOTE-above title is the weekly update title for the last entry in the thread.

Note-BUDFIVE’s Centex Build-Initial Entry Below
Well, now that my roadster kit is on the rack at Factory Five, I want to start a build thread. I ordered my kit after attending build school in August. Stewart is set to pick up on 11/21 and deliver to central Texas about 11/27-29. We’ll have to trailer the kit the last half mile from the pavement up to the ranch shop.

While waiting since August I’ve kept busy building the small block Ford roller 347, going for a dyno session(cool!), bolting up the clutch and transmission, bolting on all accessories and pulley kit, designing some of the sub systems, and purchasing lots of parts. The motor has been dyno tested and is ready for install. This forum has already been very helpful and I’m glad to be part of it—I’m sure I’ll consult with y’all a bunch during the build, and hopefully contribute at some point.

Build Plan Summary:
—Complete FFR Roadster Kit for IRS
—Small block ford roller 347 internally balanced carbureted stroker (ranch build, more on this later)
—Tremec TKX with close ratio
—Power Steering
—13” manual brakes
—17” wheels
—In-tank EFI style high pressure fuel pump with 3/8”, 6AN feed and return lines, filters before and after pump, and bypass style regulator to 6.5 psi carburetor input. System upgradeable to EFI with regulator change.

Factory Five Kit order High Level (on the truck next week !):
—Complete Kit for IRS Roadster, powder coated frame
—Ford small block TKX config
—Clutch quadrant
—302 headers-polished
—Bare 4 into 1 side exhaust
—Power steering rack
—Platinum Gauges
—Wood steering wheel
—Body cutouts
—Trunk struts, visors, wind wings, mats, other miscellaneous
—Halibrand replicas-17x10-1/2 Rear, 17x9 Front

Parts Acquired Separately (Already in the ranch shop)
—Ford Roller 5.0 from 2000 Explorer
—All parts for 347 build (separate post)
—CVF 140A alternator, Saginaw power steering pump, serpentine pulley kit
—800 psi power steering bypass reduction valve for Ford system
—Tremec TKX 18084, close ratio with 0.81 5th (great debate)
—Ford Performance D302B 23lb billet steel 0 balance flywheel
—McCleod Super Street Pro Clutch kit
—Tremec Bellhousing
—SVF starter
—Ford Performance Clutch cable and fork
—Ford Performance 2015+ Mustang center section (M-4001-88355B)
—Ford Performance IRS knuckles & Hubs (M-5970)
—Summit racing EFI pump (Walpro rebrand)
—Pro-M Racing fuel pump hanger with 3/8 output and return
—Holley 12-881 4.5-9 psi bypass regulator
—Summit 40 micron fuel filter (230101)
—Powerstop 13” slotted/drilled Z26 2015+ Mustang GT rear brakes (KC6812-26)
—Powerstop 13” slotted/drilled Z26 2004 Mustang Cobra style 2-piston front brakes(KC1304C-26)
—Breeze Radiator shroud and Radiator hinges

Still to be Decided/Designed/Purchased:
—Heater/Defroster system
—Wiper system
—Paint-probably Blue with White stripes (my two 30 something girls are helping)
—Tires-Leaning Nitto 555 G2 315/35-17 Rear, 255/40-17 front
—other, I’m sure

This is a big project, maybe the biggest I’ve taken on in my non-professional life. This is a BHAG—a Big Hairy A** Goal. It has and will push me out of my comfort zone which is healthy. Glad to finally send this.

BUDFIVE

[BUDFIVE]

Folks, this post is the detail on the 347 I built for my Roadster build. I was serious about a cobra replica for a while so I spec’d this engine in June and scheduled build school for August. I built this with the help of Texas Engine Machine in Llano Texas and sbfbuilding.com (Jim aka Woody). I was always a Chevy guy so this was my first Ford build. I helped a friend build an LS earlier this year which was a great motor. But I wanted a small block Ford for my Roadster. This motor has a mix of new high tech(AFR heads, Bluetooth downloaded timing) and old school (carb) in an old small block Ford platform. I learned a lot.

It pulled 462 ft-lbs @4500, 432hp @5500 limited by a high rpm miss. I ran out of Dyno time to chase the miss, but I have subsequently found and fixed several possible causes. Anyway, the motor should be great in a light car with a TKX and 3.55 gears.

Specs/parts:
2000 explorer roller 5.0 HO block
ARP main studs and line hone
Eagle internal balance 4340 forged crank w/ 3.4” stroke
Scat 4340 forged 5.4” rods w/ 7/16 bolt upgrade
King HP main bearings
Clevite H rod bearings
Mahle Power Pak 4032 forged 4.030” pistons with 1/1/3 thin ring pack
Zero deck with Cometic .040 MLS for 10.7:1 compression and .040” quench
Bullet custom Hyd roller cam 228/236 dur @.050, .565/.575 lift, 109 LSA, installed at 106 intake centerline
Ford Racing m6500-302H high rev roller lifters
Ford Performance spider and dog bones
Rollmaster 10030 billet double roller timing set with dual Torrington bearings
Melling M68 std oil pump
1989 Mustang Oil pan with welded baffle on rear sump
AFR 185cc Renegade CNC heads with 7/16 rocker studs, 58 cc comb chamber
ARP 12-pt Head bolts
Scorpion Aluminum Roller Rocker Arms
Trick Flow/Trend .080 hardened pushrods
Edelbrock 7521 performer rpm air gap
Quick Fuel 650 Mechanical secondary
Progression Ignition Electronic Distributor, MSD Blaster 2 coil
Ford Performance 9mm Wires

I have a ton of pictures and love talking about it so feel free to ping me.
This was a fun motor to build and I’m glad to have it ready so I can focus on the car build.


BUDFIVE192468192469

[buttsjim]

Congratulations on starting a great project! Where in the Hill Country are you (I'm in Boerne)?

[BUDFIVE]

buttsjim-my shop is in Kempner, outside Lampasas. I live in Horseshoe Bay, closer to you, straight up US281
BUDFIVE

[edwardb]

Congrats on your upcoming build and delivery. Sounds like a nice combination. A couple builds ago I did a 347 SBF also with Jim (Woody) and it was an an awesome engine. You're going to want to check that 1989 Mustang oil pan though to make sure it doesn't hang below the frame rails. With the kit supplied Energy Suspension motor mounts, oil pan depth needs to be 7.500 in. or less. I used a Moroso Street/Strip Oil Pan 20509. But there are lots of other choices.

[BUDFIVE]

Edwardb, thanks-I double checked-it’s a Dorman 264-022 from Rockauto. It’s a dual sump (2-drain plugs-hate it!) that has a shallow front sump and 7.5” max depth rear sump. The pickup is in the rear sump. We welded a baffle at the front of the rear sump to prevent all the oil from sloshing forward during braking. I thought the sides and rear of that sump are steep enough for cornering and acceleration.
I’ll watch oil pressure closely in the car, it was fine on our Dyno session.
BUDFIVE192486

[BUDFIVE]

Delivered. Stewart Transportation showed up this morning with my Roadster. Eric the driver took a ride with me in the Gator up the 1/2 mile dirt road to my shop-we decided to unload his truck at the pavement and use my trailer for for the last leg. So two pickup beds and cabs plus the trailer with body and frame and in an hour we headed up the hill. A friend and I unloaded all the boxes and pulled the trailer in the shop then started taking inventory. This evening some more friends showed up to unload the frame and then remove the body. So, a long day but a good day. Super excited to have the kit here.192769192770192771192772192773

[zarnold]

Congrats! Now the fun begins!

[BUDFIVE]

First 3 days after delivery:
-Added shelf to body buck to store doors, trunk and hood.

-Removed door and trunk hinges and Removed all aluminum panels from frame. Marked frame locations for drilling on those I was sure of position.

-Inventoried all boxes. Most boxes were checked fully, some checked at component level and bags of parts, not every fastener, connector, fitting etc. Not sure how obsessive to be on this? So far only missing extra brake fluid reservoir I added in my order. I still need to inventory the big fastener box this weekend.

-organized boxes on shop shelves, labeled and indexed

-procured nice screw machine length Hertel #30 and #11 bits for rivet drilling—rigid and sharp

-recieved Milwaukee M12 rivet gun-very cool

-marked and drilled F-panels. Ready for priming and painting wheel well side.
I plan to use self etching primer and paint or undercoating spray on exposed underside and wheel well aluminum. Any guidance?
I like the aluminum look, especially in the engine compartment and plan to just clean and treat all others with Sharkhide. Other ideas?192829192828192827192829192828192827

[Rmoore45]

This is going to be a nice build!

I think you made the right choice going with the close ratio TKX. I've driven roadsters with both the TKO500 and 600, the latter being a close ratio with .82 OD. Definitely prefer the close ratio and shorter OD. It's much more sporty haha. My car has the wide ratio TKO500 with .68 OD and 5th gear is strictly for 65+ mph highway cruising. I'm not a fan of it and have thought about swapping it to a TKX like yours.

Any reason why you chose the Mustang dual sump oil pan? I'm running a Canton road race front sump pan on my 302 and it works great. Also, what are your plans with the bare side exhaust? Ceramic coating?

[BUDFIVE]

Rmoore45
Good question. It seems funny looking back on the oil pan now but when I looked at the stock and Dorman 5.0 and 302 pans with the 7.5” max depth there were very few choices. I looked at a few aftermarket pans and their pick-ups and just didn’t find anything I liked under $500. In hindsight I wish I had posted the forum. So I decided to spend $50 and weld in baffles in the shop. I was going to run a standard volume and pressure oil pump so I thought the mustang pan capacity would be ok. On the Dyno, it held a steady 62psi with 10w40 during all pulls so we didn’t suck the pan dry, holding still :) If it is a problem in the car, I’ll learn my lesson and spend some more money.

[BUDFIVE]

Also, I missed the 2nd question “plans with the bare side exhaust”…
I have a friend who’s pretty good with Ceracoat (and powder coat for hinges,etc).
I’d like to match the ceracoat side exhaust to the center of the Halibrand wheels. We looked at the colors turbine coat, titanium, and Mag silver. Turbine coat was closest but the wheel centers have a slight dark grayish blue to them. So we may try some mixing with a color like blue titanium and turbine coat, but from the same ceracoat series. We like the c-series with 1800 deg temp.

[BUDFIVE]

WEEK 2 UPDATE
F-Panels
—Painted wheel well side with Satin Black VHT Roll Bar and Chassis paint. On test strips the paint performed better without self etching primer.
—Treated inside with Sharkhide.
—Installed black rivets with my Milwaukee rivet gun—the bomb!
—Happy with result193160193159

Front Suspension
—Installed lower control arms
—Assembled 2 piece spindles
—Mocked up upper control arms and decided minimum length of the rear leg of triangle barely hit the target for power steering-8.5” on Jeff Kleiner’s diagram below. If you look closely in the pic you can see the coupler on the rear leg is shortened. So, I had a machinist friend turn the couplers down 3/16 on each end with a lathe. I pick those up Tuesday.
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Center Section/Differential
—Enlarged front mounting ear holes to 5/8”. Used 5/8” tapered “bridge bit” bought on Amazon-worked great.
—Installed driveshaft adapter to pinion flange and torqued 10mm socket heads.
—With a friend helping, Used a transmission jack and lifted with front pitched up, then rocked front down, slid back into position as described in the build manual.
—Bolted, torqued without drama
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Rear Suspension
—My machinist friend volunteered to cut the IRS spindle/knuckles
—we mocked the upper control arm connection to the spindle to see actual interference, scribed interference line radius.
—Used a mill to cut the spindle ear and enlarge the remaining hole to 5/8”—will post picture in next update after I pick these up Tuesday
—Unfortunately, the IRS fastener pack (17157) is missing the 8 (14925) M16-2.0x110mm grade 10.9 flange bolts to mount all four IRS control arms to the frame. The pack had all the flange nuts, but not these bolts. So, dead in the water on rear suspension-I will contact FFR Monday morning and see if they have them

Steering Rack
—Replaced the bushings
—Installed and torqued mounting bolts per manual
—Screwed tie rod ends on until recommended starting ball joint stud separation (53-1/16”) was achieved. Counted equal # turns on each side.
—checked and there’s less than 1” more I can reduce the span before the tie rod ends bottom on the inner tie rod threaded ends. Hopefully that’s enough to hit the toe-in target. If not I’ll have to cut the inner tie rods.
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POL
-Have slowly compiled a list of a few missing items in addition to the POL from kit delivery. I was going to wait a bit but the missing control arm bolts have upped the priority

Good Week
It was a good and productive week. I continue to get help from wrenching friends, including one who is quite a machinist. I had a snag that caused one of those “just walk away Buddy” moments-it’s not important what it was but the fact that I thought of a sage forum post I read reminding me that this is fun and it’s ok to walk away. I’m having a blast.

[BUDFIVE]

Week 3 Update

Front Suspension—builds on last weeks update)
—Received my UCA rear leg couplers back from my machinist friend
—Turned couplers down 3/16” on each end of coupler and 1/8” down on one threaded rod in a Lathe
—Result is good adjustment range around rough starting length (8.5”)
—Assembled remainder of front suspension-LCA, UCA, spindle, hub, coil-overs.
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Front brakes
—Installed 2004 Mustang Cobra/Mach1 style 2-piston 13” Powerstop brakes with Z26 pads
—Checked clearance with 17x9” front wheels, seems fine
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Rear suspension—builds on last weeks update
—Received my rear spindle/knuckles back from machinist friend
—Used a mill to remove required ear-left as much material on the spindle as we could, cutting on an arc with rod end jam nut 3 or 4 threads from shortest adjustment.
—So far adequate clearance through range of suspension travel and range of camber adjustment (UCA length) and toe arm adjustment.
—Assembled remainder of rear suspension-LCA, UCA, Toe arm, CV axle, Hub,Spindle, Coil overs
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Rear brakes
—Installed 2015+ Mustang Gt Powerstop 13” rear brakes with Z26 pads
—Checked clearance with 17x10.5” rear wheels-0.210” (2x0.105”) thick washers required to clear caliper. Will 1/4” spacers provide adequate clearance? Will 1/4” spacer result in a desirable 315/35-17 tire position? Picture is with .210” spacer. Edit:since this post I’ve been advised on the forum to grind a small amount from the calipers and repaint, rather than use wheel spacers.
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Overall a good week. If I mounted tires, I could roll the frame with front and rear suspension around the shop (Edited out incorrect use of phrase rolling chassis). Waiting another couple months on tires.
I’ll be off visiting relatives for a week so won’t have an update, but I will be on the forum for sure—learning a lot from y’all.

[BUDFIVE]

On the road visiting relatives in Milwaukee this week. While away from my shop, I’ve been researching brake lines and buying some
Tools. I’m finding eBay to be a good source for used and new-old stock tools as long as I buy from a highly rated seller. This week I bought a Williams spanner wrench for the coil-over adjustment and a Ridgid 3/16 lever style tubing bender for bending brake lines.


I’m having fun with my build and have settled into a methodology before each section:
-Read manual
-Read build school notes
-watch FFR Build video on YouTube series
-Search forum for new ideas or clarity.
-set out as many parts and tools as possible
-write critical notes, key instruction page #s, draw pictures, and torque values on my marker board—especially helpful when working with helpers.
-Execute

I think I’ll tackle the pedal box next week.

Merry Christmas y’all
.193614193615

[BUDFIVE]

Happy New Year-Back in Texas, spending the weekend working on the car.

A bit of progress on the Roadster this week-

Procured More Tools and Parts
—Happy with the tubing bender and spanner wrench which arrived from EBay
—2 ea 25’ spools of Marine Grade 316L stainless 3/16, .028 wall, seamless, soft annealed AGS/Brakequip for brakes, from Zoro
—3/16 and 3/8 tubing straighteners

Fitted, Drilled, Mounted more Aluminum panels
—Firewall(temporary, heater cutout required?)
—Pedal Box front wall
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Installed Wilwood pedal box
—2 Wilwood master cylinders
—Wilwood brake and clutch pedals
—accelerator pedal
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Installed Steering Shaft
—used carriage bolts instead of button head for bearing at front of pedal box—more positive alignment of bearing shell halves as bearing was tightened-bearing holes had square holes anyway
—cut 3/8” off lower DD shaft to reduce shaft depth in ujoints which were binding
—tested steering function—smooth left and right, no binding or notchiness
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Assembled and Installed Fuel Tank
—Summit Racing (Walbro) 255 lph pump in tank
—Pro-M Hanger with 3/8 feed and return
—FFR tank vent
—FFR Fuel level sending Unit
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Definitely looking more and more like a car.
Next weeks (or 2) plan
— I need to decide on heater/defroster design, cut and permanently install firewall.
—Procure 3AN stainless fittings for brakes and 6AN aluminum fittings for fuel
—Run 3/8,6AN fuel lines
—Run 3/16, 3AN brake lines

Glad to be back in Texas. Happy Wrenching

[BUDFIVE]

Work this week on brake and fuel line fittings and brackets.
My strategy is as follows:
Brakes-
316L stainless 3/16, .028 wall, seamless, annealed line
Terminate lines with 37 degree flare and Earls SS 3AN Female Tube nuts and tube sleeves
Connections and fan out with Earls 3 AN SS male bulkhead fittings (straight and 90) and male bulkhead T fittings
18” Breeze 3AN to Banjo braided lines to calipers
Brackets are 12 ga steel riveted to frame

Fuel-
316 stainless 3/8 .035 wall, seamless, annealed line
Terminate lines with 37 degree flare and Earls aluminum 6AN Female Tube nuts and tube sleeves
Connections with Earls 6 AN aluminum male bulkhead fittings
6AN female to female soft lines from fuel pump hanger to filter and right rear bulkhead fitting.
Blue fittings for fuel feed line, black lines for return
Brackets are 12 ga steel riveted to frame

Received all the fittings and bought 12 gauge scrap steel at the metal yard. I layed out the lines
with 3/16 and 3/8” rope-this seemed over board but it really helped visualize. I cut mock up brackets from
cardboard then cut the 12 gauge steel with a plasma cutter, drilled and painted with satin black Rustoleum.

Here’s some pics.
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And here’s how a few look clamped in place
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I have a few questions I posted in a separate thread on brake line routing (MC down to 4” tube for rear line, right rear bracket).
I plan to bend and flare the lines this week. When finished I’ll post some pics. Running these lines is all new to me. The forum has been very helpful with a lot of example threads.

[Kbl7td]

Good luck with the complex stainless brake bends! If you’re not too far into it I’d switch to Ni-Copp, much easier to work with in all facets.

[BUDFIVE]

Thanks, I’ll keep that in mind if I start to feel like I bit off more than I can chew-entirely possible :)

[Mike.Bray]

Good luck with the complex stainless brake bends! If you’re not too far into it I’d switch to Ni-Copp, much easier to work with in all facets.

Stick with the stainless lines, you bought the good Ridgid bender so making complex bends that fall where you want is easy. Even I can do it. Did your bender come with the instructions? Feel free to reach out if you have any questions.

https://www.imagecoast.com/images/MichaelBray1/ridgidtubebendermedium.jpg

I milled a little slot in my 3/16" bender so I could make the bend closer to the end.

https://www.imagecoast.com/images/MichaelBray1/20230401145841medium.jpg

[Mike.Bray]

Fuel-
316 stainless 3/8 .035 wall, seamless, annealed line
Terminate lines with 37 degree flare and Earls aluminum 6AN Female Tube nuts and tube sleeves
Connections with Earls 6 AN aluminum male bulkhead fittings
6AN female to female soft lines from fuel pump hanger to filter and right rear bulkhead fitting.
Blue fittings for fuel feed line, black lines for return
Brackets are 12 ga steel riveted to frame

I used these (https://www.holley.com/products/plumbing_an_fittings_and_hose/hardline/compression_adapters/parts/AT165006ERL) compression fitting adapters for the fuel lines. They're fine for the relatively low pressure of the fuel system and very easy to use.

[BUDFIVE]

Thanks Mike, those might be handy where I turn up from the 4” tube at the front of the passenger footbox if I don’t have room for bulkhead fittings. And thanks, I also found the Ridgid instructions. My friend has the Ridgid 3/8 version bender for the fuel lines.

[BUDFIVE]

It was pretty cold in my shop this week as I worked on a few build items.

—Filled IRS center section with Motorcraft 75w85 hypoid synthetic and friction modifier

—mounted vent hose with Dorman 924-284 differential vent breather end on IRS center section and frame

—mounted Summit SUM-230101 40um inline fuel filter
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—Saw on the forum that some folks have fuel odor in their garages. With a carbureted, non-PCM build, I don’t have OBDII features such as Evap/Purge for the fuel vapors. I couldn’t find a cheap, compact canister so I made a fuel vapor “canister” from 1” PVC tubing, PVC end caps, 1/4 MIP to 1/4 hose barbs, scotch pad wad stuffing, and activated charcoal gravel. This is serviceable if the charcoal gets saturated. Connected to fuel hose from vent on top of tank. We’ll see if it works. Total cost $15.
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—Practiced bending 3/16 brake line with Ridgid lever bender. I was waiting for my friend who has experience bending and flaring stainless lines. I learned enough to be dangerous. 194491

I’m off to Louisiana tomorrow on a hunting trip. Hopefully, the rest of my brake line and fuel line parts arrive. Plan to bend fuel and brake lines later next week (I think I said that last week :) Stay warm y’all.

[BUDFIVE]

Still cold here in Texas but I fit in some shop time and bent my stainless fuel lines. 3/8, .035 wall stainless is pretty tough to work with but I’m happy with them so far, including my frame mount for the bulkhead fittings near the tank. Yes, I know the black tube nut has a blue tube sleeve in it-Summit was out of the black tube sleeves-I only had 1 so I used it at the front where it’ll be visible :) I may fab some new frame mounts for the front of the lines at the 3/4” diagonal-for now I have couplers which would also be fine for transition to soft lines to the regulator. I still need to clamp the lines to the frame but laying on the shop floor at 39 deg last night was not appealing. I’ll post more pics when finished.
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I received the FFR heater/defroster I ordered. I disassembled the heater, separating the blower half from the plenum half, to check the fitment compared to the provided template. The only issue was the copper pipes (5/8”) were all the way against the template hole (1-1/4”) at the 10 o’clock position. This would leave no room for a grommet on that side of the pipe. I re-marked and cut a new template which I’ll use to cut the firewall. I didn’t want to try bending the copper tubes and risk cracking the solder joint at the heat exchanger-I think I read this on the forum.
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Also received two more items:
-Breeze gas pedal with Wilwood style foot pad—this is really nice
-Ron Francis wiring harness from my POL—I’m a retired electrical engineer but the harness looks a bit intimidating. LOL

Heading out of town for 3 weeks down under in New Zealand and Australia-it’s summer there. Hopefully when I’m back the weather will be more conducive to working. I’ll be on the forum and studying next steps on my build— I will miss the build but this is probably as good a time as any.

[Mbufford]

Ron Francis wiring harness from my POL—I’m a retired electrical engineer but the harness looks a bit intimidating.

I know, right!? I did undergrad in EE, and have 6 years working as an avionics tech on airplanes. Yet, laying this harness out is already giving me simultaneous heartburn and flashbacks.

[BUDFIVE]

Back in my shop after 3 weeks down under. Good to have progress to report:

—Heater/Defroster
Cut out the firewall as marked and coated with Sharkhide.
Used small 8-32 hanger bolts (stud with wood screw on one end and machine screw on other end) instead of just the supplied screws. This made aligning the heater halves and firewall holes much easier. It will also make service easier if required.
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Installed the heater on the firewall on the bench then installed the pre-drilled firewall.

—Fuel Lines
Attached fuel lines to the frame starting with the rear bulkhead fitting+metal frame mount followed by padded frame clips moving forward. Will do the forward hard line to soft line transition with a coupler and the hard line secured with a frame clip—much easier than trying to end a hard line with a fixed bulk head fitting. My first hard line installation has been a learning experience.
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—Passenger foot box
Built the passenger footbox per the manual. Nothing too challenging.
But, since this is my first panel to panel riveting, it’s the first I’ve used the FFR short 1/8” rivets. As others have mentioned seeing, these rivets have heads that are not machined/formed as nice as the longer rivets and they won’t lay flush when installed-they stick up. So I bought some 1/8 x 1/8 Stanley rivets at the hardware store and all is well.
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—Ebrake—I want to decide on (and maybe install) an ebrake solution before installing the aluminum floorboard. I have 2015 Mustang GT 13” rear calipers and 2015 Mustang ebrake cables. The caliper end of the inner and outer cables fit as expected. The front outer cable seems like it will fit the frame attachment in the tunnel but the cables are longer than needed so I may need to shorten them. Also I’m going to have to get the inner cables to attach to the bottom of the ebrake handle. Searching the forum—so far I’ve seen a Lokar connector and McMaster car pulleys. More investigation required. Also considering the Estopp electronic parking brake solution.

It’s good to be back in the shop. We’re expecting more warm weather this week so I’m planning a few more days work.

[Jeff_J.]

Hey BudFive, Looks like your having fun and things are coming along really well. Regarding the e brake, if your staying with the FF cable method I'd suggest you have a close look at EdwardB's fix for the e brake routing if you haven't already moved on from there. His fix is only doable when the tunnel aluminium is not attached yet. The manual has the cables running under the 4" tube, it's not great but it works until you install a Driveshaft Safety hoop then the interference from the hoop pushes the cables over and its too much to leave as it is. IMHO.
I found this out after my interior was completed so I'm under the car developing a fix that will work. There are other posts and fixes on this, I'm sure you'll come up with a plan that works.

[BUDFIVE]

Howdy y’all—A productive week on the build. Great weather so lots of time in my shop.
—Brake Lines
Finally ran the brake hard lines. 3/16” 316L stainless, Earls stainless 3AN fittings, 12 gauge steel frame mounts.
These were not quite as tough to work with as the fuel lines. My Rigid tubing bender worked great as did my friend’s
37 deg flare tool. I did have a good pile of practice pieces and scraps-good for humility :) I routed the rear brake line through a bulkhead fitting at the drivers foot box front-I plan to shield this
from header heat with an aluminum channel or similar. I’m happy with how they turned out—pictures below.
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—Soft Lines for fuel system tank to hardline
Purged the fuel hard lines with brake fluid and compressed air. Then installed soft lines from the fuel pump to
the fuel filter and hard lines at the rear.
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—Rear Wheel Clearance
Isolated interference between rear caliper and 17x10.5 Halibrand replica.
Ground it down with die grinder then repainted-removed only ~1/16”.196054
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A good week in the shop. Next plans are:
-install Breeze brake soft lines at each corner, install reservoirs, bleed system.
-mount fuel pressure regulator (waiting on 90 deg fittings), measure and order soft lines to connect.
-install breeze accelerator pedal and decide cable vs linkage, order.
-build driver’s foot box.

[BUDFIVE]

Fuel Pressure Regulator and Breeze Battery Box.

Light week in the with travel to Florida. But managed two installs before heading to the airport

-Installed the Fuel Pressure Regulator on firewall. Bypass style carburetor pressure range. (Holley 12-887, 4.5-9psi). Steps down
EFI in tank pump pressure to carburetor pressures and returns bypass to tank.
Used 3/8 NPT to 6AN fittings with 6AN 90 degree swivel fittings on input and output. Measured 3 required soft line routes—
Input, Bypass, Out to Carb. Ordered braided stainless with blue, black and red ends, respectively.
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-Installed Breeze front mount Battery Mount per instructions. Continue to be impressed with quality delivered by Mark Reynolds.
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Should be back in the shop this Friday 3/8–plans included
-install Breeze brake soft lines at each corner, install reservoirs, fill and bleed system.
-install breeze accelerator pedal. Lokar cable and bracket ordered.
-build driver’s foot box.

[BUDFIVE]

It's been 3 weeks since my last update. After Florida trip, Lots of shop time resulting in lots of progress—2 posts, split out second post on ebrake since I hit pic limit

—Tires
Ready to check brake soft line clearance and do first alignment so I needed to get tires. I bought Nitto NT555G2
255/40-17 Fronts for my Halibrand 17x9
315-35-17 Rears for my Halibrand 17x10.5
Very cool!
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—Breeze accelerator pedal and Lokar cable installed- very happy with the fitment and position adjustment vs brake pedal and driver foot box inside wall.
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—Fuel Pump, 316L SS hard lines, Regulator, Earls 6AN aluminum fitting test. Made a carb replacement “stub” with fuel gauge and 1/8 NPT-6AN fitting. Installed on fuel pressure regulator output. Connected 12V deer feeder battery to in tank fuel pump module. After tightening a few fittings and adjusting the FPR to 6.5 psi, confirmed fuel pump, hard feed and return lines, AN fittings, bypass regulator, etc. The carburetor and fuel log were tested during my Dyno run. I consider the fuel system a go.
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—Drivers Footbox and Brake Reservoirs
Assembled drivers footbox. Not too much drama but like others on the forum I had to trim about 1/4-1/2” from the trailing, vertical edge of the inside wall.197262

—Breeze Brake -3AN soft lines, Brake Fill, Bleed, and Leak Test
Filled the reservoirs with Motul 600 Dot 4. Started pressure bleeding the front brakes and had multiple leaks-all at the 316L hardline flare to Earl’s Stainless 3AN bulkhead fitting. After tightening, most sealed, but we took one apart and realigned the flare as we tightened to ensure alignment. All leaks were eventually stopped and the brakes bled. Pedal feel is great. In conclusion, the stainless lines require much more torque at the tube nut/sleeve, flare, bulkhead fitting junction than I expected. It is definitely more work to do stainless lines-some of you are saying I told you so. But, I’m happy with them :)
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Upcoming-second post on ebrake

[BUDFIVE]

2nd of 2 posts

—Ebrake-2015 Mustang GT caliper and ebrake cables, FFR ebrake handle, hardware
Using the edwardb pulley solution which routes the brake cable above the 4” frame (rather than under it). Slight implementation highlights and differences:
1) 1” square tube is welded under the 1” frame tube to mount the pulleys-2 McMaster Car 3434T24. This allowed me to twist the block to tilt the pulleys more in the direction of cable travel and to achieve a lower position than drilling the pulley axle hole in the frame. Two holes were drilled in the block for pulley location flexibility before the weld.197266197267
2) Factory Five ebrake handle extended at cable attach point for lowered position (clears bottom of ebrake frame bracket) and more travel.197268197269
3) Lokar WCA-8070 Cable connector block, heim joint. The connector block is has a full length 5/16”-24 hole. I found a Heim joint male rod end with 5/16-24 threads-this combination yields a very compact adjustable connection for the cables to the ebrake handle.197270
4) Removed inner cables from cable sheaths, cut sheaths to length, relocated forward cable end to shortened cable sheath (epoxied). Enlarged frame cable sheath mount holes to 9/16”.
5) After mock up, the parts have been painted and are drying. I’ll post more pictures after final install in a couple days.

Overall, I’m happy with the progress and especially glad to have tested both the fuel system and brake system. Almost finished with ebrake.

Upcoming
—Finish install and post pics of ebrake solution
—Lower to ride height, Align with Fastrax caster/camber tool
—More cockpit aluminum

[BUDFIVE]

Finished E-brake install and adjustment—yeah!!
Since last update I moved the heim joint cable end to a mid point on the handle extension which yielded adequate clearance from the handle mount carriage bolt and more leverage than the furthest end of extension. It was a tradeoff-clearance & cable travel(better further from handle fulcrum) vs leverage (better close to fulcrum). So the middle worked best. I also moved the pulleys back to the rear, lower hole location on my welded block, providing better cable retention in the pulleys with slack cables (brake relaxed). The brake works great with 4 or 5 clicks to full tight.197538

[BUDFIVE]

-Adjusted TKX Shifter position and welded new cross brace on frame tunnel to make room.

-The TKX has an easy modification to the shifter-remove 6 bolts, rotate shifter plate, re-install 6 bolts. This moves the shifter location about 3-1/2” forward in 20 minutes.
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-Mocked-up the transmission position and the above shift position change would interfere with a cross piece on top of the transmission tunnel. I verified this by reviewing build school pictures (also a SBF, TKX combo) which showed that the forward shift position would interfere. So I cut a new cross piece and welded it in place then cut the old one out.
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-Finished as much of the cockpit aluminum as I want to do before making progress with the wiring harness.
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Next steps-
-First pass alignment
-Start work on wiring harness and dash/gauges

[BUDFIVE]

A quick update on the build.

A friend of mine who just put a harness in his restomod build came and helped in my shop for a day—what a help!
We got the main harness and sub harnesses all in place. As much as I didn’t want to, I mounted the fuse box in the recommended location, under the master cylinder outputs. I’ll make a chute out of coated cardboard to divert any drips past the fuse box.
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Note in this pic that the front harness goes through the DS foot box aluminum slot which I’ve made a small cover for with a through hole.
From this through-hole the front harness can go up to the top frame rail or go forward on the middle 3/4 with the front brake line (kind of prefer this). I haven’t decided. Input?
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At the end of the day, we tested the following,
-Continuity from battery node through start node on ignition switch to Solenoid wire in engine bay with clutch depressed(CSS clutch safety switch, ign switch)
-Continuity from battery node on ignition switch to brake light wires in trunk when brake depressed (brake switch)
-Fuel pump kicks on with ign On, inertia switch reset, 12V deer feeder battery + on battery wire in engine compartment and - to frame

I know this is just a start, but I believe a good start. I’m sure there will be opportunity for my continued humility :)

Next steps:
-Run 2 wires from NSS (neutral safety switch) in tunnel to DS footbox, join with 2 wires on CSS. This will put NSS in parallel to CSS so either clutch depressed or TKX in neutral will allow start. Picking up Ron Francis NSS pigtail at Summit this week.
-Splice (solder) 5:4 converter into rear harness to combine Brake and Turn functionality into rear LEDs.
-Heat shrink terminate all unused wires in harness(EFI, etc) Tuck away for future as needed use
-Mount headlight dimmer foot switch in DS foot box. Route 3 wires from foot switch pigtail up into dash harness. These 3 wires are in a separate group in the dash harness, cool. More on dash below.

As I’ve seen many do before, my dash is on the ranch house kitchen table. My plan is as follows, not in any order:
-Platinum gauges (Speed, Tach, Volt, Water T, Oil P, Fuel) + Oil T. There is no Oil T gauge in the Platinum line. I am working with a Autometer 200764-35 which has a chrome bezel and orange needle vs Platinum gauges’ Black chrome bezel and black needle. I’m experimenting with Black Smoke Anodized paint from Duplicolor. Test sprays on a chrome socket look promising. I can’t help the orange needle-we’ll see.
-FFR IGN switch
-Foot switch for high/low beam
-FFR headlight pull, dimmer
-i.e.427 turn signal, hazard, horn function
-4 position fan switch (off, lo, med, hi), replacing combo fan/mechanical pull vintage switch
-On/Off toggle for heater on/off. This powers US Solid Solenoid switch for heater water flow. This replaces mechanical choke cable style valve.
-LED green arrows for turn indication, blue with light symbol for high beam indication
-Marine dual-USB hi current charger port
-Haven’t decided on courtesy light

I ordered parts for above and took time out to finish and mail Taxes. I also fit in a couple days to pull the transfer case and install a slip yoke eliminator kit on my Jeep TJ to improve driveline vibration—due to 4” of lift and a really short driveshaft at severe angles. The TJ is my last build with a 4.7L stroked 4.0 in-line six. Fun and something to work on when I’m waiting on parts or need a distraction.

Still having a blast.

[BUDFIVE]

The last week has been all about wiring and the dash. Oh yeah-we welcomed a new grandson into the family 4/22, in Milwaukee.

—Unused wires: I went through the schematics and harnesses and terminated all unused wires with heat shrink tubing (EFI, brake light wires at tail, alternator energize, etc). My engine is carbureted so don’t need the EFI wires, but just like the fuel system (in tank pump) I’ve left a path for changing to fuel injection later.

—5:4 wire converter: I installed this under the trunk floor, above the fuel tank sending unit. So the converter will be accessible through the access cover.
198801
—Decided I wanted a battery disconnect switch-I have found these useful over the years on my boats. My battery is in a Breeze front mount battery kit. Following some other forum members I installed the switch in the upside down horseshoe under the dash. (Fastronix 2 post 180/1000A)
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—Positive +12V wire cleanup. Rather than group the harness positives at the starter solenoid, I installed a covered power distribution bar/bus on the DS of the firewall. I made a 2 AWG wire for the 4-5’ run from the battery to the disconnect and another for the 1’ from the disconnect to the Bus. The Ignition, Alternator output, accessory, etc all went to the Bus. When the engine is in I’ll run another 2 AWG directly from the Bus to the starter. And probably a redundant 1-wire from the alternator to the Bus to support 140A.
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—Dropped my requirement to use the TKX NSS, instead staying with only a CSS. I learned the NSS is not intended for a starter safety switch and probably requires a relay to properly implement. While it would be nice, the added functionality isnt worth the complexity to me. The css is accessible and easy to jumper around if there’s a problem.

—Headlights: Decided to utilize a foot dimmer switch (STD DS-72). Also read enough to get nervous about all the headlight current going through the headlight dash switch and foot switch. So, I added 2 waterproof PICO relays/pigtails to the front harness. The power to the relays is a 2-3’ wire with inline fuse from the power distribution Bus. The relays are mounted to the inside of the DS F-panel.
198806
—Dash: mocked up gauges and switches and temporarily clamped dash in place. Repeated a few times :) The dash was precut and the small hole options are still a little larger than recommended by Autometer for the Platinum gauges-perhaps to make room for the folded-in padded vinyl. Plus the die-cut larger hole outlines (for larger gauges) made the dash pretty flimsy around my gauges. So I re-enforced the dash with JB Weld around the edges. I think the gauge mounting will be solid enough now. Ordered rest of parts for dash.
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—Future Work:
1) Road trip to Milwaukee
2) I.E.427 turn signal—in transit
3) Protech Composites carbon fiber dash veneer—in transit
4) Illuminated switches-in transit
5) Wire dash
6) Angle aluminum dash mount landings under hoop-Mount dash

[BUDFIVE]

Build friends-back in the shop for the weekend after a great road trip to Milwaukee—my new Grandson is pretty cool. Anyway, I feel the weekend has been productive.

Dash work/Wiring—
-received I.e.427 turn signal. Nice piece.
-Had Ron Francis circuit schematics (3 pages) printed on 11x17 paper-I highly recommend, much easier to read and room for notes. Added relays and my changes to the schematics-headlight relays, 8 pin relay for I.e.427 turn signal flasher, foot dimmer switch, power distribution bar, etc.
-Also recieved carbon fiber veneer (Protech composites-Nice) and illuminated switches for the dash.
-Re-enforced dash at the bottom of steering shaft slot to provide a better mounting surface for the turn signal and veneer. The dash is ready for paint on the bottom ledge where veneer won’t be. Then I’m ready to apply the CF veneer. But, it’s 100% humidity at my shop with heavy rain all weekend-I don’t want to paint or apply the veneer in this so maybe tomorrow.

Gauge sending units—Installed all the sending units on the engine
-Water Temperature-PS top of intake manifold 199325
-Fan Switch sender-at output of thermostat housing after the thermostat199326
-Oil Pressure-DS Front fitted a 1/8 NPT 45 deg elbow on T so sending unit clears the oil filter.199327
-Oil Temperature-DS Front, other side of T, opposite oil P.

Installed Engine—
-Used a 2 Ton Harbor Freight hoist and load leveler-no drama with 2 guys and some forum tips.
-Before tightening motor mounts, pushed TKX tail shaft all the way to DS to slide drive shaft slip yoke on, avoiding the pinion flange.
-No clearance issues with wiring, power steering pump, etc. Unused mounting tab on TKX PS just clears e-brake frame mount, talked about by some on forum.
-Eye-balled best transmission tail mount shim thickness. At 1” (4-1/4” Forte spacers) seems best. Need to measure the angles with a clear head.
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Future work-
-Check/adjust drive shaft, pinion and transmission tail shaft angles
-Apply CF veneer and paint to dash, cut out gauge holes.
-Install and wire gauges.
-Install dash
-Make wiring connections to engine and transmission.

[BUDFIVE]

Forum members, I had a few days in the shop this week. Made progress on the driveline, dash board, engine compartment wiring and trunk.

Driveline check and adjustment—
—Measured driveline angles with different shims between the transmission and transmission mount. Tried total shim thicknesses of 3/4”, 1”, 1-3/32”, 1-3/16”, 1-1/4”.
Settled on 1-3/16” which resulted in the following angles:
Transmission tailshaft +2.0 deg toward front
Driveshaft +3.2 deg toward front
Operating angle 1 (Dshaft to Tailshaft), -1.2deg
Pinion angle +0.5 deg toward front
Op angle 2 ( pinion shaft to dshaft), +2.7 deg
Overall work angle 1.5 deg (deg from parallel for pinion shaft to transmission tailshaft)
I’m happy with where it ended up. If you’re interested in the details, I posted a thread on this on the forum at

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?49006-Driveline-Angles-Data-and-3-Questions

Dash work-
-Applied the Protech Composites CF veneer on dash aluminum. Used 3M 468MP 2 sided adhesive transfer tape which was applied on 1 side by Protech. Applied pressure then heat on backside of aluminum. I had never worked with CF, including veneer—it is a PITA to cut. Ended up using heavy shears around the edges then block sanding them for final. Good so far. I’m off to buy some diamond jig saw blades for the gauge holes.
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Wiring-the gift that keeps on giving :)
- Wired female blade or ring terminals to all sending units and engine connections (electric choke, fan on/off, 1-wire alternator, water temp, coil, tach, oil pressure, oil temp)
-Made 2 ga line from power distribution bar to high current stud on starter solenoid
-Made 2 ga redundant line from alternator out to power distribution bar (RF alternator wire is 8 or 10 ga. I wanted heavier for 140 A alternator)
-Added Blue Sea Systems, unswitched 4 circuit expansion fuse block to firewall. This will power Headlight relays, USB dash charger, +12 v socket, + expansion)
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Roll Bar-
-Fitted and installed DS Roll Bar. Read on Forum this is easier before the trunk aluminum is in place

Trunk-
Installed trunk side aluminum

Future work-
-Dash-cut out veneer gauge and switch holes
-Install and wire gauges.
-Install dash
-Install headlight foot dimmer switch
-Install ‘Kleiner Mod’ for rear body attachment and Trunk floor aluminum
-Install cockpit rear wall
-Install radiator and hoses

[BUDFIVE]

It was a fun week on the build. Progress on the dash and aluminum.
Dash-
-Tried 4 different jigsaw blades on scrap CF over aluminum holes-carbide thin metal, scroll, diamond stone ceramic tile, and laminate. A laminate blade with the dash face taped and down worked best. The laminate blade cuts only on the upstroke so it doesn’t tear the fibers from the substrate. This practice cut is pointed to by my finger in the pic.
199911
-Cut out gauge and switch holes in the CF veneer (aluminum hole already there). Final size/shape with Dremel stone.
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-Populated dash with gauges and switches. One of the really cool parts of the build, watching the dash come together! Note the Oil Temperature gauge with the orange needle. This gauge had a chrome bezel which I sprayed anodized black and polished to match the platinum gauges as close as possible.
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Cockpit and Trunk Aluminum-
-With rear harness in place, including the 5:4 LED converter, installed the trunk floor and sides.
-Placed 3D-printed access hole covers
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-Installed (4) 7/16-14X3/4” bolts + couplers at rear. These are the beginning of the ‘Kleiner Mod” and will receive the all thread, nuts and washers when the body is mounted.
199917
-Planning rear cockpit wall cubby access door. Posted Forum for range of between-seat distance for other members. Ordered rear access door and frame. Door is ~6x9
-Master cylinder access hole and door. Spent time in my machinist friend’s shop working on the master cylinder access. Enlarged hole to much larger than original. Fab’d access door-.060 aluminum, 1/2” larger than hole on all sides, rounded corners, bent ~15 degrees along same line as mounted portion. This was cool work as we used my friend’s throatless shear, giant metal shear (both feet on front lever to articulate), radius die, sheet metal brake, ~14” disc sanding table, etc. All new to me! Might use these again on my rear cubby box.
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Next on to do list-
-Wire dash, headlight foot switch, ie427 turn signal
-Install dash
-Install rear cockpit wall and cubby access door, fabricate cubby box
-Install radiator, plumb engine, and fill
-Install power steering lines and fill

[edwardb]

I assume you know that about half of the enlarged opening you made in the DS footbox will be covered by the body. The hood opening above roughly follows the original curve in the aluminum. The larger opening may allow you a little better access. But it will be tight once the body is on. I'd recommend you not finalize any fasteners until the body is accounted for. You won't be able to reach traditional fasteners for some of it.

[BUDFIVE]

Edwardb, thanks. Yea, I know the body will be over most of the expanded hole (close to the firewall). There’s also really nothing in the foot box as you get close to the firewall. But I’m hoping it helps get more of my arm into the box if I have to service a master cylinder or clutch cable. I think I may still attach the mounted piece such that it’s easy to remove, not riveting it to the top 3/4” frame rail. Perhaps I was trying to boil the ocean, but it was a great excuse to hang out in a hunting buddy’s shop and use some tools I had never used :) thanks again.

[edwardb]

Edwardb, thanks. Yea, I know the body will be over most of the expanded hole (close to the firewall). There’s also really nothing in the foot box as you get close to the firewall. But I’m hoping it helps get more of my arm into the box if I have to service a master cylinder or clutch cable. I think I may still attach the mounted piece such that it’s easy to remove, not riveting it to the top 3/4” frame rail. Perhaps I was trying to boil the ocean, but it was a great excuse to hang out in a hunting buddy’s shop and use some tools I had never used :) thanks again.

I get it. I'm a tool guy too. Hopefully not being too negative. Just citing experience... The body with a foam gasket sits on the joint between the top footbox cover and the 3/4" tube. Attachments for the other three sides (footbox front, footbox side along the engine, and firewall side) may/may not be easily accessible depending on how everything is installed. I too always try to think about maintainability for the future. But bottom line, having that top piece removeable would gain very little over the cutout you've already made. Having everything sealed up without any hot air infiltration is a big part of your driving comfort. I'd be careful of any mods that negatively affect that. You'd live with it every time you drive vs. the possible need to gain more access at some point. FWIW, I've had to open the stock cover for minor adjustments or whatever. But on all my builds never anything major. Lucky so far I guess. MC issues, leaks, etc. can often be found and corrected during the build while everything is still open.

[BUDFIVE]

Thanks and I appreciate that you read the updates and give feedback from a base of experience. I’m learning from y’all. I hope I look at that cover in 10 years and think, “why did I bother?”.

[BUDFIVE]

A productive week on the build.

Cockpit and Trunk Aluminum-
-Installed upper trunk floor
-Installed rear cockpit wall. I read a lot of forum posts so expected to have to patiently fit to get the position of the seat belt harness slots right. I’m pleased with the result.
-Installed rear cockpit wall cubby access door.
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Dash wiring-
-Started wiring the dash gauges. This project is still on the kitchen table and it’s nice to work a bit in the evening with AC. The speedometer, tach, left and right turn indicators, and high beam indicator are wired. The small gauges have light wiring, and need signal and power wiring. About 1/2 finished.
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Power steering-
-Started to work on power steering plumbing. One of my 6AN braided hose end fittings (90 deg 6AN) was not properly crimped so I’ll need it replaced. Also the CVF accessory package uses a Saginaw style pump which requires a 5/8-18 inverted flare fitting on the high pressure output, so I also ordered a 6AN male : 5/8-18 Inverted flare fitting.
200244
Headers-
-Installed FFR polished stainless 302 headers. Used Remflex gaskets and stainless studs and hex flare whiz nuts. Some of the flare nuts had to have the flare ground to a smaller circumference as the header primaries are really close to the bolt line. New trick to me a friend suggested—threaded the flare nut on a bolt, tightened, chucked the bolt in drill, spun the flare nut perpendicular to my bench grinder. Nice way to evenly reduce a flare nut-I had done this on a drill press with a file but this was even better. I love the polished stainless!
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Radiator Prep-
-Decided to add Mark’s upper and lower radiator mounts to my Breeze fan shroud. Those will arrive tomorrow and I look forward to installing them.

Next on to do list-
-Continue to Wire dash, headlight foot switch, ie427 turn signal
-Install dash
-Fabricate cubby box
-Install radiator, plumb engine, and fill
-Install power steering lines and fill

[BUDFIVE]

A Short but productive build week. Knocked off Friday afternoon for travel this weekend and upcoming week.

Dash wiring and mounting
-Completed wiring the dash components best done with the dash out of the car.
200567
-Added 2 ground posts to the 2x2 behind the dash
-Have several ground wires and unswitched power wires (USB, cig lighter) to connect or run through the firewall to the aux fuse panel with dash installed.
-Need to wire I.e.427 turn signal, horn, hazzards, with dash installed
-3/4” sq tube sections were welded under the 3/4” hoop to allow screws attaching dash to be accessed with body on. I wasn’t happy with a riveted angle aluminum solution.
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Clutch and Throttle-
-Installed Ford Performance M7553-c302 clutch cable and Summit firewall adjuster. After proper adjustment*, clutch is working fine.
*Note I was concerned the clutch quadrant wasn’t getting enough cable travel to release the clutch-the opposite was true. Video through the bell housing fork window showed the diaphragm fingers were pressed flat by the throwout. McLeod tech support said I was likely over driving the clutch which in fact was true-the release point is long before the fingers flatten. (McLeod Super Street Pro)
-Installed and adjusted Lokar throttle cable. Verified full throttle operation and smooth movement of Quickfuel 650CFM mechanical secondaries.

Radiator-
-Installed Breeze fan shroud, upper and lower mounts and FFR radiator at the recommended 51 deg angle. Used Sharkshide on shroud and clear engine paint on non-finned portions of radiator.
-Working on hose implementation design. Not a fan of the stainless corrugated.
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Power steering-
-Have all fittings for power steering pump to rack connections
-Waiting on FFR due diligence on 6AN hose inventory and a replacement—Is my bad hose a fluke or part of a bad batch?
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Next on to do list-
-Mount and Wire headlight foot switch, ie427 turn signal
-Install dash and finish wire connections
-Fabricate cubby box
-Install power steering lines and fill.

[BUDFIVE]

A productive 10 days since my last update, between personal trips.

Dash mounting
-Mounted dash to 3/4” add-ons to dash frame hoop-FFR #8 black screws with washer
-Only mounted left and right-leaving center screw till body stripe position is known (J. Kleiner’s note on Forum)
-Bent ends of dash with large (4”) green bean can-in the world of K-cups and Nespresso who has coffee cans? :)
-Ranch-house kitchen table clear of project ! LOL
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Turn Signal
-Mounted ie427 Turn signal to the dash per instructions
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-Fit perfectly, including offset spacer to compensate for non perpendicular steering shaft to dash angle.

Power Steering-
-Recieved new 6AN 90 degree hose from FFR with properly crimped 90-thanks FFR!
-Installed and routed hoses-36” a bit longer than needed but functional.
-Filled and bled system turning lock to lock (no pump operation) till air bubbles concluded-Spun pump by hand and refilled
-Turned lock to lock while spinning pump with impact wrench. Assist seems to be working properly. All of above with car and jack stands.
200753
Coolant system
-Picked four EPDM hoses from Dayco catalog (473 pages of pics). Not a fan of the stainless hose provided in kit. Here’s list if others are interested:
1) DAYCO #70477-1-1/2” upper 90 from vertical tstat housing to billet fill union
2) DAYCO #70543-1-1/2” Upper hose which drops from fill union to upper radiator input.
3) DAYCO #70295-Lower 1-3/4” to 1-1/2” 90 from water pump to 6” union
4) DAYCO #70526-1-1/2” Lower hose from 6” union under xframe to radiator bottom output.
-Acquired 6” aluminum 1.5” beaded pipe for lower union of 2 hoses
-Acquired 6” billet radiator fill for upper hose union. Prefer this to FFR plastic fill section.
-Cut to fit. PVC ratchet knife is perfect for this.
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-Treated hoses with 303 protectant-seems like good stuff.
-Vibrant Performance T-bolt clamps
-Cut 3” long 2-1/2” scrap hose. Cut lengthwise too. Surrounded and protected hose and secured under xframe.
-Mounted overflow tank to PS 3/4” rails at F-panel. Used FFR upper bracket and my own angle lower bracket.
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-Filled system with 50/50 mix of Prestone and distilled water.
-Tightened a few clamps to stop leaks.




Next on to do list-
-Mount and Wire headlight foot switch,
-Wire ie427 turn signal, horn, flashers
-Wire heater fan, heater control switch
-Complete and Test electrical system—will wire nut cap wires not needed till later (headlights, turn signals, brake lights.
-Fabricate cubby box
-Countdown to first start

[BUDFIVE]

On the road this week starting today, but managed a few more hours in the shop before leaving:

Oil Filter Adapter (Ford Performance M-6880-B50)
-Normal straight out oil filter position interfered with the clutch cable passing by the motor mount to the bellhousing.
-90 deg billet adapter is a nice piece finished in blue anodizing. Can be rotated around original threaded mount’s axis to suit the application requirements. Some positions caused oil filter interference with forward sump on oil pan. Other positions had interference between adapter and oil pan mounting lip. I settled on the filter positioned pointing down and slightly aft.
-Uses newer 22mm oil filters such as Ford Performance FL-820

200902
All Fluids Filled-with some of my notes
-Engine Oil-Mobil 1 10w-30. Dyno break in oil was Driven BR40 10w-40 and the oil pressure was 52 psi at idle and pegged at 63 psi above 1500 rpm, probably the bypass pressure. I’m thinking the 10w-40 was a little thick, So I’m trying 10w-30 for this fill.
-TKX-called Tremec to discuss break in—per their suggestion I filled with Valvoline Dexron III ATF for the 500 mile break in lube. Will refill with GM Performance Synchromesh.
-Brake Master cylinders--Motul 600 DOT4
-Rear 8.8 center section with TracLoc-Motorcraft 75W-85 with XL3 friction modifier. Recommended fill by Ford.
-Power Stearing-Lucas Oil Power Steering Fluid
-Coolant-50/50 Prestone Green/Distilled water. It works at a great price. I’ve had bad luck with newer (OAT) coolants clogging a heater core with gel after 18 months—stuff has to work, newer and more expensive doesn’t make it better. Just sayin :)

Next on to do list-
-Mount and Wire headlight foot switch,
-Wire ie427 turn signal, horn, flashers
-Wire heater fan, heater control switch
-Complete and Test electrical system—will wire nut cap wires not needed till later (headlights, turn signals, brake lights.
-Fabricate cubby box
-Count down to First Start

[BUDFIVE]

Back in the shop after a week on the road—worked a bit on the Roadster this weekend:
Post Dash-Install Wiring, Courtesy Lights, Painless Performance, Grounds, Cooling Fan Connector

Post Dash-Install Wiring
-With dash in, I started the process of connecting the wires from the dash to the rest of the harness.
-Routed and snapped 3 dash harness connectors to Main RF harness. Plugged headlight switch bundle to socket on switch.
-To simplify future dash removal, all other connections are with WeatherPack connectors. So if I have to remove the dash, I have accessible screw mounts and wire plug connections. Open barrel connectors are crimped and soldered. Interesting that with all the car wrenching I’ve done, this is my first use of WeatherPack connectors-thank goodness for YouTube.
-So far, USB and 12V socket powers split with Weatherpack at firewall then run to auxiliary fuse box on engine side of firewall.
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Courtesy lights
-While on the road, ordered some polished stainless West Marine LED Galley Lights to use as courtesy lights. Will mount 2 on breeze dash bottom mounts and 1 in rear cockpit area.
-Painted stainless frame with Duplicolor Metalcast Black Anodizing to match the black chrome on my gauge dash bezels.
-Plan to use standalone battery powered lights in trunk.
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Painless Performance— Made in USA, Made in Texas
-I needed some Weather Pack connectors and found some by Painless Performance. Looked at their web site to better understand the selection and part numbers—noticed they are in Fort Worth, Tx.
-Was at my place in Fort Worth after flying through DFW this week so I went and visited them. Greg showed me around a bit—Cool company builds harnesses (custom and standard), wires, connectors, waterproof relays & sockets, etc. All in Fort Worth, Tx!
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Grounds-can’t have too many!
-CVF recommends dedicated ground wire from 1-wire alternator. Made 2 AWG wire with lugs from alternator ground post to frame ground which used braid from engine block.
-Made 2 AWG ground with lugs from post consolidating sending unit grounds and coil ground to frame ground with negative battery cable.
These, in addition to 2 ground posts on 2x2 frame member on the dash side of firewall for all the dash wiring grounds should be adequate.
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Cooling Fan
-As experienced by others, the cooling fan connector and RF fan harness connector weren’t compatible.
-Followed 2021 Forum suggestion and replaced connector with Metri-pack 280 series Delphi 2-pin connector, rated at 30A, matching the cooling fan fuse.
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Next on to do list-
-Mount and Wire headlight foot switch,
-Wire ie427 turn signal, horn, flashers
-Wire heater fan, heater control switch
-Complete and Test electrical system—will wire nut cap wires not needed till later (headlights, turn signals, brake lights.
-Fabricate cubby box
-Count down to First Start

[BUDFIVE]

A great week in the shop including the First Start milestone.

As I was finishing up the post dash-install wiring, I thought wouldn’t it would be cool to have the First Start on July 4–Fireworks Cobra Style!
-Connected battery cables and flipped master switch-no smoke. Check
-Measured 12V socket to test unswitched power wiring. Check
-Turned key to on. No smoke, fuel pump energized and built pressure at carb to 6.5-7psi. Gauges all zeroed, except voltmeter (12.5v). Check
-Disconnect coil, key to start and crank to re-oil bearings, etc before starting. The oil pressure was fine on October’s Dyno day, after which I changed out the break in oil and filter. Check
-Reconnect coil, crank engine with 3 or so throttle pulls and it Started, on take 1 of the video-it doesn’t always go like that. Happiness is! BooHah!
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-Turned engine off, tightened chirping serpentine belt, checked fluids, etc.
-Restarted engine and adjusted timing a few degrees to match iPhone real time timing table on Progession Distributor. Adjusted idle back to 800 rpm. @800 the camshaft overlap produces a pretty lopey idle.
-Ran till thermostat opened (180 deg) and then fan came on (185 deg)

What works in the car with the car’s wiring (system test vs unit test)?
-Starter and clutch safety switch.
-In-tank fuel pump, fuel pressure regulator
-Water temperature, oil pressure, voltage, fuel level gauges and sending units.
-12V socket
-Alternator, water pump, accessory kit (CVF).
-Thermostat, fan trigger sender, fan
-Climate fan switch and blower motor

What hasn’t been tested?
-Oil temperature gauge and sending unit. Oil temp may not have exceeded the gauge range min (140 deg). More testing required.
-Heater flow control valve and dash toggle switch. Wiring is complete but valve not installed (plumbing and mechanical mounting )
-Power steering was tested with impact driver a few weeks earlier. Need to test next time I start the car.

Even though I had Dyno tested my 347 build in October, it was a thrill to start it and run it in the car with the dash in place and wired.

Happy 4th of July!

Upcoming work
-Load a couple cool videos we took this morning.
-Add First Start 7/4/24 to signature.
-Test oil Temp, Heater flow valve, Power steering
-Test turn signal, flasher, brake light, headlight wiring and switches.
-Adjust clutch and run through the gears, look for life in the speedometer.

[BUDFIVE]

Trying to provide 2 videos from First Start yesterday. Let me know if you can or cannot access. I’m a newbie at posting video

https://youtube.com/shorts/3wvo2v3F9F4?si=zYUF3R6Aurr4jFDj

https://youtube.com/shorts/muZWmDj4kEg?si=InjQXVYFCkfYJhc_

[BUDFIVE]

This weeks update isn’t quite as exciting as last weeks first start, but more progress in the shop:
Electrical test/debug, Engine tweaks, Lube

Continued testing and debug of electrical system-so far so good.
What works in the car (system test vs unit test)?
New Added this week-
-Heater Flow Control Valve and dash toggle switch
-Power Steering appears to be assisting steering (no weight on tires)
-Dash Gauge lights
-Turn signal and hazard dash wiring and indicators
-High beam/Low beam dash wiring and high beam indicator light
-2 USB high current charge ports
Last week-
-Starter and clutch safety switch.
-In-tank fuel pump, fuel pressure regulator
-Water temperature, oil pressure, voltage, fuel level gauges and sending units.
-12V socket
-Alternator, water pump, accessory kit (CVF).
-Thermostat, fan trigger sender, fan
-Climate fan switch and blower motor

What hasn’t been tested?
-Oil temperature gauge and sending unit. Oil temp may not have exceeded the gauge range min (140 deg). More testing required.
-Courtesy light wiring
-Horn wiring

Improved engine idle, ease of starting, off idle stumble
-addressed multiple leaks between heat/cool cycles
-adjusted carburetor electric choke and fast idle for startup ease
-increased idle speed from 800rpm to 850 rpm
-increased idle ignition advance from 12 to 14 deg-EZ iPhone adjustment via Bluetooth to Progression ignition distributor-cool. Also EZ to go back or adjust one or more cells on the fly. In this pic the y axis is manifold pressure/vacuum and x axis is rpm. Each cell is advance. Total mechanical equivalent advance is 32 deg by 3000 rpm and vacuum advance is up to 10 so max timing is 42 deg.
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Lubed all suspension wear points at zerk fittings.
-Lucas Red and Tacky
-LockNLube Professional Pistol-Grip grease gun with clip on zerk attach
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Upcoming work
-Test/debug oil Temp,
-Mount and test horns and courtesy lights.
-Test turn signal, flasher, brake light, headlight wiring at endpoints with lights. Dash wiring and turn cluster are correct.
-Adjust clutch and run through the gears (off the ground) look for life in the speedometer.
-First pass alignment
-Start checklist for go carting

[BUDFIVE]

Lots of progress in the shop. Dash supports, courtesy lights, Speedo & Oil T, Clutch/Gears, Electrical Debug checklist

Dash Supports and Courtesy lights
-Fit 3 Breeze dash supports. Painted and drilled supports for 3 West Marine galley lights.
-Dash feels much more stable and lights have the desired effect.
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Speedometer Debug, Clutch &Gears
-2 wires in RF harness and connector to TKX electrical speed sending unit.
-Obvious RF green wire labeled “speedometer signal” goes to speedometer “sig” input. -Not obvious what to do with gray wire labeled “EFI-speedometer signal return”. With it left disconnected (I have a carb’s engine) the speedometer doesn’t move (after its initialization) with driveshaft spinning. After reviewing Forum posts —The gray wire must be grounded.
-Adjusted clutch height and release point as desired. Fun running through the gears-all seems good. Can’t wait for go-cart ! :)
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Oil Temperature Gauge
-Gauge inoperative despite correct power up signature, apparent corrct wiring and proper resistance of sending unit.
-Isolated to signal wire from sending unit to gauge. Problem was bad blade connector to wire joint at gauge end of wire—despite being crimped and soldered. Crimped and soldered a new connector and the gauge works. It reads only a few degrees different than laser temp sensed oil pan sump. The gauge with the orange needle (why? Earlier in build thread :)
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Debug List-Continued testing and debug of electrical system-so far so good.
What works in the car (system test vs unit test)?
New Added this week-
-Oil Temp Gauge
-Speedometer
-Courtesy Lights
Previous-
-Heater Flow Control Valve and dash toggle switch
-Power Steering appears to be assisting steering (no weight on tires)
-Dash Gauge lights
-Turn signal and hazard dash wiring and indicators
-High beam/Low beam dash wiring and high beam indicator light
-2 USB high current charge ports-Starter and clutch safety switch.
-In-tank fuel pump, fuel pressure regulator
-Water temperature, oil pressure, voltage, fuel level gauges and sending units.
-12V socket
-Alternator, water pump, accessory kit (CVF).
-Thermostat, fan trigger sender, fan
-Climate fan switch and blower motor

What hasn’t been tested?
-Horn wiring
-Turn signals, brake lights, headlights at endpoints. Have been tested at dash harness.

Upcoming
-Mount and test horns.
-Test turn signal, flasher, brake light, headlight wiring at endpoints with lights. Dash wiring and turn cluster are correct..
-First pass alignment
-Start checklist for go carting-Countdown

[BUDFIVE]

This was a fun week in the shop. Nice to work on complete systems as the car comes together such as alignment of suspension systems. Ride height & Alignment, More Carb Tuning.

Ride Height and Alignment
-First time since delivery day (11/29/23) the car is on the ground!
-Right height set at 4-3/4” Rear, 4-1/2” Front. Used stacks of 1 ea 2x6 + 2 ea 2x4s plus 1/4” spacer in rear.
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-SPC Fastrax alignment tool
-Each “turn plate” is 2 industrial floor tiles sprayed with silicone spray then placed face to face.
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-Adjusted front camber and caster. Straightforward and it was close with Jeff Kleiner’s preliminary settings.
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-Rough adjusted front toe.
-Ran string on each side horizontally 12.5” above floor (center of hub) from behind rear tire, outside tires, to pvc pipe in front of frame.
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-Adjusted rear camber to -0.5 deg then maintained camber while making toe adjustment for thrust and rear toe.
-Adjusted rear thrust with toe adjuster to get the DS and PS strings an equal distance (20-7/8”) from the 4” frame in front of the exhaust header. Continued to adjust rear toe to 1/16 on each side.
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-Adjusted front toe-in inside the strings on thrust line.
-Front suspension settings:
Camber -0.5 deg
Caster +8 deg
Toe-in 3/32 (1/8 DS, 1/16 PS-steering wheel not on so eyeballed straight ahead on steering shaft flat).
-Rear Suspension Settings:
Camber -0.5 deg
Toe-in 1/8” ( 1/16 DS, 1/16 PS )
-This wasn’t too bad once I figured out the relationship between rear toe and camber adjusters. Probably 6 hours total. I expect the suspension to settle and to need to center the steering.

Carb Tuning (Quickfuel 67318 650 DP)
-Re-learning Holley carburetor tuning (been awhile—70’s & 80’s)
Here’s where Mike Bray might remind me EFI is better :)
-Camshaft has significant overlap (14 deg @.050, 69.5 @.006) which yields low vacuum at idle; surging, stumble rolling off idle, etc. Adds to the challenge—good thing I have more patience than in my teens and twentys plus 30 years of engineering.
-Bought David Vizard’s Holley Tuning book and watched a dozen videos.
-Too many turns on primary idle speed screw exposes too much of primary transfer slot, causing rich idle and unresponsive idle mix screws. Also leaves insufficient fuel for transition from idle to part throttle.
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-Fortunately this carb has 4 corner idle so the secondary throttle can be opened for more airflow, allowing the primary to be closed a bit. Bummer, this is best done with carb removed. With two remove/install cycles I’m getting close.
-changed from spring style PCV valve to fixed orifice style to stabilize idle (also recommended for Sniper installations). Also used for excess oil burn service bulletin on late model gm trucks.
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-High overlap also requires more ignition advance so the carb tuning will be supplemented with timing map changes for my Progression Distributor. More of what I did in previous post.

Ongoing testing and debug of electrical system-so far so good. (List Maintained week to week)
What works in the car (system test vs unit test)?
New Added this week-
-none
Previous-
-Heater Flow Control Valve and dash toggle switch
-Power Steering appears to be assisting steering (no weight on tires)
-Dash Gauge lights
-Turn signal and hazard dash wiring and indicators
-High beam/Low beam dash wiring and high beam indicator light
-2 USB high current charge ports-Starter and clutch safety switch.
-In-tank fuel pump, fuel pressure regulator
-Water temperature, oil pressure, voltage, fuel level gauges and sending units.
-Oil Temp Gauge
-Speedometer
-Courtesy Lights
-12V socket
-Alternator, water pump, accessory kit (CVF).
-Thermostat, fan trigger sender, fan
-Climate fan switch and blower motor

What hasn’t been tested?
-Horn wiring
-Turn signals, brake lights, headlights at endpoints. Have been tested at dash harness.

Upcoming
-Mount and test horns.
-Mount dead pedal and foot headlight switch.
-Test turn signal, flasher, brake light, headlight wiring at endpoints with lights. Dash wiring and turn cluster are correct.
-Steering hub and wheel
-Seats
-Checklist for go carting-Countdown

[Mike.Bray]

https://www.imagecoast.com/images/MichaelBray1/34559423959684575766142651227595185626544093na.jpg

[BUDFIVE]

A bunch of small things in the shop: Steering column & wheel, Breather/PCV, Ignition Tuning, Lights, Horn-big milestone all electrical work!

Steering Column, Turn Signal Assembly, Steering Wheel
-With all of the features of the turn signal cluster (ie427) verified it was time to finish the column and install the steering wheel.
-For proper hub to cluster clearance I had to telescope steering upper shaft out and up about 1/2”.
-Used Threadlocker Blue on the hub bolt and steering wheel to hub screws
-Wooden steering wheel sure looks good.
-Added Silicone wheel protector for now.
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Valve Cover Breather and Breather PCV
-Settled on fixed orifice PCV during last week’s tuning.
-Bought billet breather and matching breather/pcv which I could install PCV of choice-nice pieces from Pirate Manufacturing in Oklahoma
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Ignition Tuning
-Confident in throttle plate/transfer slot adjustments with virtually all idle to part throttle lag eliminated.
-Added more idle timing to 18 deg BTDC. Note Progression Ignition Distributor fixes the idle timing-it doesn’t change with vacuum. With the camshaft overlap more advance is required. Idle is the 2nd column in the pic. Other columns (as rpm increases) add more timing with more vacuum. Top row of table is WOT so no vac advance.
-With the carb and timing changes I was able to reduce idle speed to 850 and the idle is much more stable. This is as far as I’ll go before driving with a WB O2 sensor.
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Lights, Turn Signals, Flashers
-Had checked turn signal and flasher operation on dash indicators but needed to check wiring to endpoints.
-Temporarily wired rear turn signals, front turn signals, license plate light, and headlights.
-All functions seem to work on all four corners-signals, flashers, hi/lo beam headlights, running lights and brake lights.
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Horns
-Installed FFR supplied horns on DS front frame down tube per manual.
-Wired to RF Front Harness
-Tested functionality-Wow loud in my metal shop building!
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* Big Milestone! All Electrical Wiring and Components Debugged and Functional!
Ongoing testing and debug of electrical system-so far so good. (List Maintained week to week)
What works in the car (system test vs unit test)?
New Added this week-
-Turn Signals, Hi/Lo HeadLights, Brake Lights, License Plate light, Flashers, etc
-Horns
Previous-
-Heater Flow Control Valve and dash toggle switch
-Power Steering appears to be assisting steering (no weight on tires)
-Dash Gauge lights
-Turn signal and hazard dash wiring and indicators
-High beam/Low beam dash wiring and high beam indicator light
-2 USB high current charge ports-Starter and clutch safety switch.
-In-tank fuel pump, fuel pressure regulator
-Water temperature, oil pressure, voltage, fuel level gauges and sending units.
-Oil Temp Gauge
-Speedometer
-Courtesy Lights
-12V socket
-Alternator, water pump, accessory kit (CVF).
-Thermostat, fan trigger sender, fan
-Climate fan switch and blower motor

What hasn’t been tested?
-Don’t Know of Anything*

Upcoming
-Seats
-Checklist for go carting-Countdown

[BUDFIVE]

Hey Y’all, back in the shop after a 2 week, 3600 mile road trip in my C6 vette. It was great to get out of the Texas heat and while I crossed 11 states my 2 main stops were Sheridan, WY and Milwaukee, WI. Milwaukee was to visit my daughter, her husband, and my new Grandson (15 weeks). In Sheridan I spent 4 days in a friends fully equipped shop—wow what a treat. We made a jack adapter for my Harbor Frieght Low Profile Daytona, really as an excuse to use all the shop equipment.
Jack Adapter-
-Replaces HF Low Profile jack’s padded platform attached by metal hex screw.
-Made from 5” aluminum cylinder.203374
-4” diameter cut-out to fit bottom of FFR Roadster 4” tube frame.
-“Ears” above cutout trimmed so overall height, including jack minimum is 4-1/4”, fitting under my roadster.
-Designed in Fusion 360203375
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-Rough cut with giant bandsaw, other tools included Lathe and Mill.203378203379203377203376
-Need one more cut on bottom to locate boss on platform I missed in Design.203380
-Great project for me to experience these tools in a cool shop

Upcoming
-Dead pedal, hi/low beam foot switch install
-checklist for go cart

It’s great to be back in my shop. I truly missed the build.
Cheers!

[Mike.Bray]

I love my cradle adapter! It's very secure and works well.

I know you're going to love yours too.

[BUDFIVE]

Go Cart! Holy Crap!
I have had a ton of fun with my build, but I’ve been anxious to see how the roadster performs. After 9 months of work I got to Go Cart on 8/31. This and the First Start on July 4 are fun milestones and make the work even more worth it.

After finishing my checklist, a friend and I loaded the roadster (go cart) on a flatbed for the 1/2 mile ride from the ranch shop down to the pavement. We found a spot in the bar ditch that minimized the ramp angle and rolled the car down. I’m very pleased with the outcome and no new issues were found. I limited to about 40-45mph for safety, probably only a couple miles.
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Observations notes-
-Clutch adjustment and performance were great
-Throttle response was lag free and snappy (prior updates showed carb and timing work to address lag)
-Brake pedal felt firm and braking was straight and strong—clear that the pads still need bedding so I didn’t hammer them.
-Steering was crisp and tight with no twitchiness. Power assist was good with enough effort for feedback. Good return to center.
-Track was straight with feeling of stability
-First, Second, Third gears seem well spaced-this car will be fun to row the gears in. Acceleration is Strong. It’s going to be a blast.
-Car will benefit from sound insulation and carpet-a bit tinny.


We put the car back on the trailer and pulled back to the shop. Everything stayed tight, no leaks, etc. What a great feeling of accomplishment. Thanks for all on the forum for the help thus far!

A brief video of the beginning of the drive is at this YouTube link:
https://youtu.be/geNhc6qC5nk?si=tG92nBq6XowsNr69

Next Work,
—Insulation, Carpet
—Seat and harness install
—More go carting—bed brakes, calibrate speedometer, test brake proportioning

[Mbufford]

Congrats!! You got that thing together quick!

[BUDFIVE]

Mbufford, thanks. Still lots to do but a cool milestone achieved with lots of help from y’all on the forum.

[BUDFIVE]

After go carting it is back on the Jack stands for more work. Used my new Jack adapter cradle-works great. It feels good to be productive in the shop after another 2500 mile road trip.

Transmission Tunnel-
-Plan to use both FFR tunnel cover and FFMetal cover with insulating layer sandwiched between.
-Patched FFR (.040) shifter opening to reduce oversized hole to 4” round hole
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-Cut 3” hole in FFMetal (.060) cover
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-Used Duplicolor Metalcast Black Chrome Effect paint on chrome shifter boot ring supplied by FFR. Same technique as used to match chrome gauge bezel on Oil T gauge to Autometer Platinum gauge bezels.
-Considering designs for top of transmission tunnel cover-combination of leftover carbon fiber, unused padded dash material, vinyl matching the Herb Fraser door panels. I was going to use carbon fiber on the whole thing-just seems too much. Ideas?

Driveshaft safety loop (Metco MDL2500)-
-I go carted without a tunnel cover. This was good for listening for vibration issues. But, the visual of that driveshaft spinning fast, even at just 45mph, right by my hip is entrenched in my mind! So, I decided I wanted a safety loop.
-Metco solution seems to be well regarded on forum
-Nice piece, Simple 1 hour install.
-Was able to bias the hoop toward the driver side just a bit to clear parking brake cables on PS.
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Heater-
-Made bracket for US Solid flow valve/solenoid from 1.5x1.5” aluminum angle and mounted to horizontal 3/4 square tube just forward of PS foot box.
-Installed 90 degree heater hoses from intake manifold (before thermostat) to valve then valve to heater input, and from heater output to water pump input.
-Refilled system with antifreeze and activated solenoid valve. Valve opened as previously tested and allow coolant to siphon into heater circuit. Will completely fill next time I run the engine.
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Insulation-
-Started insulation work with combination of Summit Racing .067 thick thermal/sound matts (32 x 18”) and Thermotech .067 rolls (36” wide)
-Plan to use matts on firewall and foot box verticals as well as other high heat areas. Thermotec rolls should be good on large flat surfaces such as floors and foot bottoms. The summit matts are heavy and seem denser. I’m new to this, so suggestions are welcome.
204414
-Completed firewall back insulation with Summit Matt.


More parts-
-Ordered Herb Fraser’s standard door panels with pockets. Bought some extra vinyl material in case I need it for other interior spots.

Next Work,
—Insulation, Carpet
—Seat and harness install
—More go carting—bed brakes, calibrate speedometer, test brake proportioning

[BUDFIVE]

In the shop this week working on the interior. The weather is getting much nicer in Texas as we head into the best shop temperatures of the year.

Rear Glove box / Cubby-
-Fits behind door and angle aluminum frame installed in June (build post #43)
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-Nominal size 12-1/2” wide, 14” deep, 6” high.
-0.040” thickness 5052 aluminum sheet (Metal Supermarkets). The 5052 is very workable.
-I learned how to use a 30” metal bending brake and HF electric 14Ga shears. These tools were up for this small task. For bigger jobs I go to a friends shop and use the giant foot shear and heavy 48”+ brake.
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-Installed Summit .067” heat/sound insulation on bottom, mainly to keep heat out of the box.
-Velcro’d Indoor/outdoor matte on top of insulation for bottom of box. Left sides and top of box interior unfinished.
204748

Prep for insulation & Carpet-Sealing aluminum joints, just beginning-
-Using combination of silicone, scrap aluminum, and HVAC metal tape.
-Since the footwells/floors will be sealed I bought some 3/4” hole plug/grommets-if (when) I get caught in the rain, I’ll pull the carpet back and pull the floor plug to drain. (Amazon)
204749


Next Work,
—Insulation, Carpet
—Seat and harness install
—More go carting—bed brakes, calibrate speedometer, test brake proportioning:eek:

[JimStone]

Looking good!

[BUDFIVE]

Beautiful weather here in Texas again this week. Great time to be in the shop.

Prepped for Insulation (as planned last week)
-Used combination of silicone, scrap aluminum, and HVAC metal tape. Definitely needed to clean the aluminum with acetone prior to HVAC tape.
-Used aluminum screen and JB weld to cover gaps around frame tubes at front of foot box.
-I installed 3/4” grommet plugs in foot box floors.
-Final cleaning with acetone for install.

Passenger Side Insulation-
-Used pre-cut FFR carpet pieces as templates.
-Installed Thermo-Tec .067” acoustical and heat insulation on foot box floor, front wall, outside wall, inside wall, cockpit floor, tunnel side and under door section.
-Also insulated foot box ceiling even though I don’t think it gets carpet.
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Next Work,
—Insulation, drivers side next.
—Carpet
—Seat and harness install
—More go carting—bed brakes, calibrate speedometer, test brake proportioning

[BUDFIVE]

Good full day in the shop. Insulation is pretty tedious so I just broke it into 2 days and powered through it with the radio on. Today was day 2.

Driver Side Insulation-
-Used pre-cut FFR carpet pieces as templates.
-Installed Thermo-Tec .067” acoustical and heat insulation on foot box floor, front wall, outside wall, inside wall, cockpit floor, tunnel side and under door section.
-Also insulated upper inside wall of foot box by master cylinders, etc
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Rear Cockpit Wall-
-Same technique but ran out of Thermotec halfway. Rest completed with Summit Racing Brand which is even stickier and more difficult to keep from wrinkling.
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Trunk-
-Prepped trunk edge seams with silicone.
-One way sanded and Sharkshided Rear Glove/box. Don’t intend to carpet outside of glove box in trunk.
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Next Work,
—Insulation, trunk floor next.
—Carpet
—Seat and harness install
—More go carting—bed brakes, calibrate speedometer, test brake proportioning

[BUDFIVE]

Step by Step progress in the shop

Trunk Insulation-
-Bought more and Installed Thermo-Tec .067” acoustical and heat insulation on trunk floor
-Ready for carpet
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Transmission Tunnel Top-
-Installed Thermotech in between upper and lower tunnel top sheets, completing the sandwich.
-Still over-thinking top treatment (CF, CF+Leather, etc) :)
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Driver’s Side Footbox-
-fitted, drilled, cleco’d, insulated outer pieces
-ready for footbox carpet then assembly
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Driveshaft Safety Loop-
-cut, drilled, painted, installed 3/8” spacers between dshaft loop and bracket to increase clearance at top of driveshaft.

Next Work,
—Carpet
—Seat and harness install
—More go carting—bed brakes, calibrate speedometer, test brake proportioning

[John Ibele]

Wow, you went on a tear over the past several months. Nice progress and very nice workmanship. I like a clean engine bay :). Have fun with the final touches. Unlike this Minnesotan, you don't have to think about putting your car away soon.

[BUDFIVE]

John,
Thanks, I appreciate it.

[BUDFIVE]

Great day in the shop-I usually post once a week but there’s so much coming together I want to keep up with the build thread.

Carpet-
-Painted carpet joint areas on insulation black to avoid shine through (Thanks Jeff Kleiner).
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-Tons of masking to avoid getting unwanted aluminum and frame powder coated overspray.
-Carpeted trunk floor first—I figured I’d get the technique down on the least important area (to me). Turned out pretty good.
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-Super 77 gets real tacky, real fast. GooGone works for removal.
-Carpeted drivers side footbox and floor. This included installing carpet on outer footbox wall prior to completing.
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Drivers side footbox-
-Riveted, siliconed drivers side footbox outer wall
-Re-installed DS side exhaust-ready for next startup.
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Next Work,
—PS and Rear bulkhead carpet
—Seat and harness install
—More go carting—bed brakes, calibrate speedometer, test brake proportioning

[BUDFIVE]

Happy in the Shop-finished the carpet!
While I enjoyed the progress and seeing the Roadster continue to look more and more like a car, the carpeting work is tedious and is tough on the lower back (even with the car up on jacks).

Carpet-
-Carpeted PS Footbox and floor.
-Carpeted Cockpit Rear Wall.
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-On rear wall I experimented with Henry’s 663 adhesive on the large flat areas with Super 77 around the edges. Henry’s 663 is used for putting carpet on aluminum pontoon boats, is troweled on, and is easy to position for 30-60 mins. This allowed me to place the edges (like around rear glove box) and take my time getting any wrinkles out of the large centers. In the future I would keep both on hand but mostly would use super 77.
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Next Work,
—Treat carpet edges (experiment with HF Heat Gun)
—Transmission tunnel top
—Seat and harness install
—Next go cart—bed brakes, calibrate speedometer, test brake proportioning

[BUDFIVE]

Back from trip to Colorado and in the shop this week. Focused on preparing for next go cart and other items on my pre-body-fitment checklist.
Tie-rod Safety check and Heat Shield for brake line

Tie-rod Safety check-
-It occured to me I have no idea after first alignment how much thread engagement I have on the tie-rods into the tie-rod-ends. Since a tie rod pulling out during my next go cart would be catastrophic, I wanted to check.
-Marked a line on tape, loosened jam nut, and turned 10 turns out. The tie-rod was still threaded so I considered this good. Re-threaded 10 turns in and reset jam nut.
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Brake Line heat shield-
-The rear brake line from MC to rear T routes down the DS footbox front before angling back to the frame tubes. This line is 1-2” from the DS header collector flange so I wanted to shield it from heat.
-Used Aluminum 3/4” plywood U-channel and Thermotec insulation. U-channel runs 1/2” below footbox floor to protect the 90 deg bend in the line from rock chips, etc.
-May add 3” wide HVAC Aluminum tape for additional reflection.
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Next Work,
—Treat carpet edges (experiment with HF Heat Gun)
—Transmission tunnel top
—Seat and harness install
—Next go cart—bed brakes, calibrate speedometer, test brake proportioning

[gbranham]

I routed my rear brake line just as you did, but the group convinced me to simply move it inside the footbox.

206219206218

[Rebostar]

I routed my rear brake line just as you did, but the group convinced me to simply move it inside the footbox.

206219206218

Great idea. Inside, the only way to go!!!!206220206221

[gbranham]

Great idea. Inside, the only way to go!!!!206220206221

That's exactly where mine ended up.

[Mike.Bray]

Inside the footbox.

https://www.imagecoast.com/images/MichaelBray1/20220623151832mediumrotated.jpg

[OB6]

I took a different approach and ran the rear line forward down the 3/4 tube and then back along the 4" tube to the rear of the car.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=190391&d=1695576587

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=190394&d=1695576930

[BUDFIVE]

Gbranham, Rebostar, Mike, I remember looking at this a bunch and at the time with a mental block on having the brake line inside— I know the master cylinders are right above the pedals and a leak into the footbox there is much more likely :) Now that I’m much farther down the road I realize no big deal. I might move the line in. Just for grins though I’m going to get the header hot and measure the air temp inside and outside of my channel shield. It’ll be interesting to see and getting the header hot is a fun time.

Terry, thanks, that looks like a good way to go too.

The best, and the worst, thing about these cars is the ability, and need, to decide how it all comes together.

[BUDFIVE]

I received my transmission tunnel cover back from the upholstery shop. I wanted to utilize the CF used on my dash (but not over do the CF) and have a padded comfortable part to rest my arm on. I had a separate thread on this and discussed different options with the forum. Here’s what I ended up having done-can’t believe the shop could sew through folded leather and CF. The leather has padding under it to provide the comfort I wanted.
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[BUDFIVE]


I had a female spade terminal vibrate off of a gauge’s male spade. This, in addition to earlier connection issues, prompted a thorough QC check of my gauge wiring—a slippery slope! I had learned enough over the summer during electrical debug to know there might be issues.

QC check summary—
-My cheap open-barrel female spade terminals were stamped from thin, poor solderability alloy. This resulted in poor crimps and loose spade connections. As painful a decision as it was, I decided to deal with it now, before the body goes on. Lesson Learned—even when anxious to buy stuff quick to make progress, order the good stuff and wait.
-The same goes for tools-I had never used open-barrel terminals and didn’t know the importance of high-quality crimping pliers/dies for rolling and driving the barrel inward. My closed barrel pliers were just fine but not my open barrel set. I now have a set of nice Klein ratcheting pliers with 3 sets of dies (open barrel, closed w/ insulation, closed w/out insulation).

The Fix—
-The gauge wiring was carefully removed with the dash in place to avoid pulling the steering/turn signal cluster to remove the dash.
-The speedometer and tach only have spade connections so I replaced my terminals with high quality Molex tinned-copper closed barrel female spade terminals, crimped and soldered.
-The 5 small gauges (2-1/16) have both 8-32 studs and male spade terminals for the 3 connections so I replaced my terminals with Molex tinned-copper closed barrel #8 ring terminals, crimped and soldered. The power, ground, and gauge light wires were daisy chained with long enough go-between wires so each gauge can be pulled from the dash and disconnected individually.
206470
-All terminal connections were finished with 3:1 shrink adhesive lined tubing.
-Repeated electrical verification outlined in build post #54. All good :)
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I’ve learned so much during the build and have several things I’d do differently next time-next time is now with this do-over. I’m happy with the updated wiring and glad I addressed it now.



Next Work,
—Treat carpet edges (experiment with HF Heat Gun)
—Install Transmission tunnel top with shift boot.
—Seat and harness install
—Next go cart—bed brakes, calibrate speedometer, test brake proportioning

[gbranham]

I feel your pain. I used barrel crimper and wire nuts on my first build 20 years ago. Lesson learned. Nothing but solder and heat shrinking these days.

[BUDFIVE]

Gbranham, thanks. Not too painful fixing it now. Now that it’s fixed and in addition to typing the post, I started the beast up for some therapy-Music. All better :)

[BUDFIVE]

A great, productive week working in the shop—The ranch shop does more than work on cool project cars :) First I performed the annual maintenance on my hay moving tractor (engine oil, filter, hydraulic filter, coolant flush, air filter, fan & alternator belt, diesel fuel stabilizer for winter, etc). Also helped a wrenching friend (big contributor on my build) replace the ujoints on his 2500HD. And then, managed some focused time on cockpit details on the roadster—finished the Tunnel Cover install and Wire tidying.

Tidying wires-
-Looking down behind dash from above the wires are routed better after my re-wire.
-Added wire looms to underside wires from toggle switches to heater solenoid control valve and heater/defroster fan.
-Added riveted zip ties to dash underside ledge to guide lower wires and looms.
-All wires now hidden and secure (I think). I’m satisfied with this part of the build now.


Tunnel Cover and Sifter Boot-
-Used JB weld to complete the tunnel cover sandwich of FFR .040 original cover+Thermotec+.060 FFmetal cover on top.
-Installed 3/4” trim screws through the back of cover angled 1” tail section. These screws are covered by the carpet flap.206722
-Installed shift boot and ring with oval head sheet metal screws (2ea 3/4”, 2ea 1”). The 2 rear screws circled are the same oval head but 1” and go through the tunnel cover and into one of the tunnel frame tubes. This required a somewhat random clocking of the shift boot ring but I liked being able to secure the tunnel without obvious mounting screws. 206726206723
-Overall I’m pleased with how the interior is shaping up.
206724206725
Next Work,
—Treat carpet edges (experiment with HF Heat Gun)
—Seat and harness install
—Next go cart—bed brakes, calibrate speedometer, test brake proportioning

[BUDFIVE]

Build Crew Friends,
While enjoying Thanksgiving today I realized it is 1 year to the day from when my roadster kit was delivered. I’m amazed at the journey so far, thrilled by the progress and very thankful for the teamwork going into my build. Back to the shop to get ready for GoCart 2.0.

[BUDFIVE]

A bit more rework in the shop, not fixing a mistake I made rather mission critical component replacement.

I have read a lot on the forum and then other searches about problems with Wilwood Master Cylinders. The fail rate seems high both for infant mortality and for ongoing failures over time and miles. The rate is perhaps worse when the MC is operating a clutch. All of this has lead several builders to replace the MCs with Tilton series 75 units. There seem to be design advantages (longer piston which is also steel, anodized bore) in the Tiltons which should lead to better durability. There have been many FFR cars shipped with the Wilwoods, many without an issue. I agree with shared thoughts on the forum threads including several who I paraphrase “at the end of the day, do what you think is right for your build”.

I was at Motorola Semiconductor when we won the first Malcolm Baldridge Quality Award. We sold chips into the most quality sensitive markets including Automotive. Still, In the first ABS systems, to hit the quality and reliability targets we had to run 2 microcontrollers in parallel with a verify compare.

I’m just a few weeks away from mounting the body and even closer to GoCart 2.0—If I was going to swap them, now would be the time. So I swapped them.

Parts used-
2 ea Tilton 75-750u kits—following used:
-75-750 MC (3/4” bore)
-74-200 Remote reservoir adapter (5/16” input)
-74-208 clamp
-73-820 3AN male to 3AN male adapter
-74-214 5/16 hose
2 ea Dorman 787-046D 5/16 barb to 1/8 NPT elbow (Reservoir bottom)
2 quarts Motul 600 DOT 4
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Install Notes-
-Tilton series 75 output is 3AN female whereas the Wilwoods were 1/8 NPT. My lines are 3AN so I used the kit supplied 3AN male to male adapter.
-Tilton remote reservoir adapter has 5/16” hose barb input and kit supplied hose is 5/16 so I replaced the fitting at the FFR reservoir with 1/8NPT x 5/16 Barb.
-I shortened the Tilton input pushrods by ~5/8”.
-Replaced both MCs, adjusted pushrods to provide slack at pedal height.
-Re-installed FFR reservoirs with new adapters and 5/16” hoses.
-Total time to bleed-ready, 3 hours.
-A friend came by and helped me bleed the system without issue. Back to a solid pedal feel for Gocart 2.0.
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Next Work,
—E-brake handle boot
—Wire Painless Performance 4-pin connectors on head, turn, tail light harness endpoints and on lights
—Treat carpet edges (experiment with HF Heat Gun)
—Seat and harness install
—Next go cart—bed brakes, calibrate speedometer, test brake proportioning

[BUDFIVE]

Some quality time in the shop-still warm in the ranch shop. I focused on some detailed interior work—let’s just say a growth opportunity for me :)

Lower Firewall/Dash and Carpet Transition-
-The trunk and engine compartment have some exposed aluminum treated with Sharkshide. I also wanted to maintain some of the exposed aluminum look in the cockpit—to me it ties the car back to that raw, vintage experimental race car look. So, I decided to leave the lower firewall/dash exposed aluminum.
-Treated the aluminum with Sharkshide.
-after some online studying I found some J-channel at Home Depot for the carpet to aluminum transition. (TrimMaster 5.5mm square cap). Trimmed carpet so it fits in the riveted j-channel.207410
-Happy with finished look-clean transition from carpet to aluminum, aluminum to tunnel top CF and leather.
207411207412

Carpet Edge Treatment-
-Melted the edge of carpet with a Harbor Freight Heat Knife.
-You have to be careful to raise temperature increments slowly or you melt away too much.
-Not pretty but the carpet won’t unravel. Most edges will be hidden.207413

E-brake boot-
-FFR boot seemed a little big for my implementation.207414
-Fabricated new boot metal outline platform from welding wire.207415
-Dropped off at upholstery shop to sew new boot onto wire platform.
-Stay tuned.

Next Work,
—E-brake handle boot
—Wire Painless Performance 4-pin connectors on head, turn, tail light harness endpoints and on lights
—Body undercoat
—test fit body
—Seat and harness install
—GoCart 2.0—bed brakes, calibrate speedometer, test brake proportioning

[BUDFIVE]

Another great week in the ranch shop, and getting the car out!

Completed Checklist for GoCart 2.0-
-Adjusted brake balance bar to 50/50 (equal # threads outside each clevis).
-Rechecked brake bleed.
-Checked all fluids.
-Check tire pressure (22psi) and torque lug nuts (90 ft-lbs)
-Reset ride height to 4-1/2” F and 4-3/4” R with new increased weight (carpet, insulation, tunnel, more aluminum).
-Re-checked alignment including thrust angle
Front -0.5 deg camber, 7.5 deg caster, 3/32 total toe-in (adjusted)
Rear -0.5 deg camber, 1/8 total toe-in
—Measured 2 mile distance for speedometer calibration.
—Found much better trailer unload/reload location in the Farm to Market Road grassy bar ditch in front of the ranch. Much better ramp angles. Light traffic with perfect road conditions.

GoCart 2.0-Impressions, accomplishments and learnings-
—No issues loading and unloading.
—Much less road noise and rattling now that carpet, insulation, transmission tunnel sandwich, etc are installed. This leaves the exhilarating sounds of engine and exhaust.
—Engine is still snappy and the close ratio TKX is crisp. This will be fun. :)
—Calibrated Autometer digital speedometer using pre-measured 2 mile course—no issues.
—Performed brake pad to slotted & cross drilled rotor bedding procedure:
5 moderately aggressive stops from 40-10 mph without complete stop
5 moderately aggressive stops from 35-5 mph without complete stop
5 minute cool down with easy brake-free driving
—F/R balance—After above cool down, I hit the brakes pretty hard at 35-40 mph in a straight line. Excellent performance with straight and strong braking. I sensed the front brakes starting to scrub and right when I thought I’ll try that a little bit firmer, I noticed the oil pressure had dipped. Did the oil pan welded-in baffle not effectively keep sufficient oil at the rear sump? I forced another dip in pressure with heavy braking so I suspended heavy, sustained brake testing until this is investigated. I’m glad I was watching for this at the urging of Jeff at Texas Engine Machine. Also, some of you (edwardb) had questioned my pan choice-please believe me I was listening.
—During the post-drive check I noticed the small air voids at the top of master cylinder remote adapters is gone. In a separate thread the consensus was not an issue. The vibrations and repeated brake application must have purged them up to the reservoirs.
—Overall a very cool and exhilarating experience. I finished with a true feeling of accomplishment.
207836207835207834207833

Ebrake Handle Boot-
-Received boot back from upholstery shop—I like the gray soft leather, matching the tunnel cover outsides.
-May replace the shifter boot on the TKX stick to match
207838207837
Next Work-
—Install new fuel tank replacing leaking original. New tank recieved.
—Investigate/remedy oil pressure dip under heavy braking.
—Wire Painless Performance 4-pin connectors on head, turn, tail light harness endpoints and on lights.
—Body undercoat
—Test fit body
—Seat and harness install

[BUDFIVE]

A lot of ranch work like rebuilding the electric brakes and replacing hub bearings on my stock trailer plus cold weather have gotten in the way of a lot of roadster progress.

But, I did replace the oil pan with a deeper rear sump pan from Kevko. The last 5+ oil pans I’ve installed have been on the engine stand, with the motor upside down and gravity holding the gasket where it needs to be, and easy access to all bolts including rears (no transmission bolted up). This one was under the car with everything in place—What a PITA!!

Oil Pan Upgrade—
—Kevko F901 Cobra Kit Car model F901
209453
—Changed to fix oil pressure drop with hard stops during Gocart 2.0. Even though I welded a baffle in the old 4+1 quart Mustang pan, there was not enough oil under the baffle to feed the pickup during stops.
—7+1 quart zinc-coated pan, matching pickup, dipstick.
—Rear sump with 7.5” max depth, all 4 sump sides are vertical including forward vertical with trap door, tray and crank scraper (I bent it down to ensure clearance of stroker crank).
-Front of pan is constant depth avoiding need for 2nd drain plug—Yay!
-Kevko is a very nice piece with only minor fitting required:
>Enlarged tray pickup hole to clear pickup down tube
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>Drilled slightly offset rear 2 mount holes to match stiffener strip and block holes. I was able to drill these in place using the thick (3/16”) Ford stiffener strip holes as a guide and a 12” long 3/8” drill bit.
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-Filled with 7 quarts Mobil 1, Pulled spark plugs, locked Progressive distributor (Bluetooth-Cool), cranked to prime.
-Re-installed plugs, unlocked distributor, started and ran with normal oil pressure and no apparent leaks. Topped off at 8 quarts.
-Will double check oil pressure during brake bias testing at next go cart.


Next Work-
—Install new fuel tank replacing leaking original. New tank recieved.
—Verify oil pressure drop during heavy breaking is fixed by new pan
—Wire Painless Performance 4-pin connectors on head, turn, tail light harness endpoints and on lights.
—Body undercoat
—Test fit body
—Seat and harness install

[Mike.Bray]

Filled with 7 quarts Mobil 1,

Is that a new engine? If it is you're much braver than me starting off with Mobil 1. FWIW, much better to use a break-in mineral oil like this. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/cca-1590

[BUDFIVE]

Mike, the rings were seated on a Dyno and first few hours of run time were with Driven BR-40.

[Mike.Bray]

Mike, the rings were seated on a Dyno and first few hours of run time were with Driven BR-40.

That's good.

Mobil 1 sure isn't what it used to be, I would stick with the Driven oils.

[BUDFIVE]

Beautiful 80+ degree weather in CenTex this week. Replaced the leaking fuel tank.

Fuel Tank Replacement—
—Summit Racing-branded Mustang tank (SUM-255004. $102)
—Changed to fix leak with greater than 1/2 full tank—level above the welded seam
—Transfered tank vent, sending unit and Pro-M hanger with 255lph pump from original tank. The Pro-M hanger requires cutting notches in the fuel pump assembly hole for insertion.210100
—Bent the raised areas on the seam at strap locations so they are flat again. These come bent up to better accommodate the straps in the Mustang application. However since we raise the tank up to the 3/4” square down-tubes(with plastic end caps), the seam needs to be flat. This is a part of the replacement I was more careful with-the leak was between the tank halves at/near where I had bent them flat with 1/2” wide pliers. This time I used 2” wide vice grips (see pic), careful not to bend at the weld. I feel better about the finished tank this time.210101
—After test fitting, I bent the front 3/4” down tubes forward about 1/8” by sliding a pipe over them. This allows the down tube with plastic insert to sit flat on the tank seam flat with some clearance from the tube to the vertical tank wall. This was a friction point on the original tank.210110210111
—Re-attached braided short lines and electrical connectors to pump and level sender hangers.
—Filled tank to ~5/8 full, observed fuel pressure at carb fuel-log, started the engine for some side exhaust music!
—No leaks at 24hrs.

This is the last fix of items which turned up in Go-Cart 2.0, so I’m ready for Go-Cart 3.0 then start fitting the body.
Still a fun time in my build-I’m excited to start on the body. :)

Next Work-
—GoCart 3.0–Verify oil pressure drop during heavy breaking is fixed by new pan. Monitor fuel tank for leaks with sloshing. Re-attempt F:R proportioning.
—Wire Painless Performance 4-pin connectors on head, turn, tail light harness endpoints and on lights.
—Body undercoat
—Test fit body
—Seat and harness install

[BUDFIVE]

More warm weather and good progress this week. Completed Go-cart 3.0 and moved body from upper buck position to work area.

Repeated pre-drive checklist—
—Tire pressure 22 Psi.
—Lug nut torque.
—Ride height 4.5” F, 4.75” R.
—Skipped alignment check as no visible change and ride height unchanged.
—All fluid levels.
—Brake transfer bar tight, rod position correct.
—Use same load/unload method for trailering from Ranch shop to Farm to Market road.

Goals for GoCart 3.0–
—Verify Kevko F901 pan fixed oil pressure drop during heavy braking. Complete
Several aggressive stops from 30, 40 and 50 mph yielded no detectable drop in oil pressure. Yay!
—Verify New fuel tank doesn’t leak even with fuel sloshing from trailering and driving. Complete. Fuel tank filled to 3/4 full, trailered up and down 1/2 mile dirt ranch road to front Ranch gate, driven ~3 miles with acceleration, deceleration, turns with no leak evidence.
—Check Front to Rear brake proportioning. Not complete but Good. Tried hard braking from 30 and 40 mph with no wheel lock. Very good braking performance, just no locking. Definitely feel F>>R weight transfer. Maybe too cautious with seat not bolted in and no seat belt yet.
—Try new tennis shoes with much narrower soles for tight pedal spaces—Complete. Much better clearance from adjacent pedal (brake to accel, accel to brake). Converse Low-top retro-looking shoes. >1/2” narrower than my normal Nikes at the widest part of sole. And, my kids have something else to tease me about.:)
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—Overall Impression-last planned go cart before body mounting. Very quick, responsive and fun car to drive. Raw-I drove my C6 vette this week which is much more refined. I’m Slowly getting more aggressive as my confidence (in myself and the car!) increases.

Moving body to work area—
-Starting a new phase in the build-frame prep, body fitting, registration,etc.
-Body was 6’ up on the body buck upper deck since 11/28/23.
-Moved to active work area in shop-buck upper/lower sections separated for lower working height.
-Flipped body upside down for cowl trimming and undercoat prep.
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Next Work-
—Wire Painless Performance 4-pin connectors on head, turn, tail light harness endpoints and on lights.
—Body undercoat
—Trim body dash cowling to consistent width allowing clearance from dash.
—Frame prep for body fitment
—Test fit body
—Seat and harness install

[BUDFIVE]

It’s been a couple weeks since my last and I’m glad to be sharing an update. Finally, Our last real cold weather for the winter followed by a warming trend. A mix of inside work and shop work. Shop Compressor upgrade, Light pigtail weatherpacks, body dash and rear bulkhead rolls, Raptor undercoating.

Shop Compressor Upgrade-
-Long overdue re-plumbing with new equipment.
-Separate regulated air connections for air tools (impact, die grinder, palm sander, etc) and paint tools (sprayers).
-Paint sprayer path is super dry with desiccant dryer after the filter.
-Tool path has combo 0.5um filter/regulator. Requires manual tool oiling which I prefer.
210849
Light Pigtail Weatherpacks (Painless Performance)–
-Inside work while shop 15-30 deg F
-Painless Performance 4 pin square connector (smaller than flat 3 way connector)
-Added weather tight connector to tail, front turn, license plate and head light fixtures.
-Headlight bulb connector(Female plug, male socket) and Front turn bulb connector (male plug, female socket) are opposite to prevent wrong plug to harness.
-Still need to add connectors to chassis harness.
210844
Body Dash & Rear Bulkhead Roll Cut—
-Made marking jig to mark consistent distance from bullnose rolls.
-Marked then taped line about 1/2” from roll nose.
-Removed most material with 3” angle air grinder/sander (80 grit) then eased up to tape line with 6” air random orbital sander (80 grit)
-Should allow first body placement. Will mark consistent distance from carbon dash as required and recut.
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Raptor Bedliner for Undercoat—
-Prepped body underside with 80 grit on 6” air orbital
-Masked ~2” from wheel wells and areas I may need to sand/grind to fit, etc (turn signal wire holes, side vents, windshield slots, etc).
Shop temp was 70 F at first coat and 76 F at end of second.
-I needed to add 4 oz urethane reducer to Raptor 8oz hardener and 24oz Black to thin enough for spraying.
-Settled on 54psi (static) at the gun for desired texture (mild)
210847210848

Great to start working on the body—more of the continuous learning of this project, fun and interesting.

Next Work-
—Wire Painless Performance 4-pin connectors on head, turn, tail light harness endpoints
—Frame prep for body fitment
—Cut larger turn signal wiring holes for connectors to pass through body
—Test fit body
—Seat and harness install

[BUDFIVE]

Team Roadster, it’s been a while since I posted on the build. After 3+ weeks out of the country, I’m glad to be back in the shop. I’ve been working on items on my list before the body goes on and completed wiring the headlight, taillight, and front signal harness end connectors. I also completed the drivers footbox upper aluminum including the custom access door.

Driver’s Footbox (Upper) and Access Door-
-Had delayed until go carting and debug complete prior to body placement.
-Access door is much larger than FFR Design and heavier (.050) aluminum with sound/thermal insulation and window edge foam seal.
-Rivet like nut inserts and 7x0.8 stainless button head screws.
-Scotchbrite and Sharkshide treated the aluminum pieces in engine compartment.
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Harness Weatherpacks(Painless Performance)–
-Painless Performance 4 pin square connector (smaller than flat 3 way connector)
-Cut the harness ends to length and added weather tight connectors for the tail, front turn signal and head light wiring.
-All Weatherpack pins were crimped and soldered.
-Re-tested all light modes including hi/lo beams, turns, hazards, running.
212027

Next Work-
-Frame prep for body fitment
-Cut larger turn signal wiring holes for connectors to pass through body
-Mount side louvers.
-Test fit body
-Seat and harness install

[BUDFIVE]

I continue to prep for body fitment. This week I cut holes in the light-mount flats on the body for the weatherpack connectors and test fit the lights. I also installed the hoses and ducts for a DS defrost vent and DS + PS heater vents.

Cut Holes for connectors and test fit signal lights-
-Used die grinder with carbide cutter to enlarge factory cut holes so weatherpack connectors on lights can pass through.
-Part of strategy for ez body removal wrt lights.
-Test fit all turn signals/lights.
-One front signal light mount hole was drilled incorrectly-filled with 3M HSRF and drilled properly.
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Heater/Defroster Ducts, Hoses, and vents–
-Mounted 2 heater ball-style vents under dash corners.
-Closed off 2 upper heater/defroster box outputs. The 2 lower outputs were used.
-Used Y fitting to split DS hose into 2
-Prepared 1 DS defrost vent. Cowl mounting location tbd during body fitment. PS defrost vent cowl opening will not be functional.
212209212210212211212212
I attended 1 day of this weeks Texas Cobra Club Meet. It was quite a thrill watching(hearing) all of the cars coming back after their day trips-just more motivation to stick with my build-I didn’t need it, but loved it :)

Next Work-
-Frame prep for body fitment
-Mount side louvers
-Test fit body
-Seat and harness install

[BUDFIVE]

I only managed to free up a couple days in the shop this week, but made some good progress—exhaust ball joint hangers, front body mounting prep. I plan to spend Easter with all 3 of my grandkids then attempt first body fitting 4/25-27.

Exhaust Ball Joint support-
-5/16” hook, 5/16x9” turnbuckle, rubber muffler hanger, fabricated 3/16x3/4” steel strap brackets.
-Replaced 4 collector to side exhaust bolt/nut with black oxide allen bolt and 3/8” brass long nuts, following the guidance by several forum members. Also replaced 3 ball joint nuts with brass long nuts. FYI, Even with the limited run-time of the engine, the old bolts/nits were already starting to seize.
212723212724

 Front Body Mount Prep-following J. Kleiner Method
-Cleaned entire body with Prep-All Wax and Grease Remover.
-Used Dremel 60 grit sanding drum to enlarge front mounting holes for the EX-17B grommets.
-Cut stainless 0.75” tubing to four 5.5” lengths. Test fit in grommets.
-Cut 3/8” and 1/4” thick, 3/4” wide x 4” long rubber lengths and cemented together and to top frame tubes just behind the upper radiator cross frame. (3M Super Trim Adhesive). These 5/8” spacers are the starting point for setting the front body height-I have 1/8, 1/4 and 3/8” pieces to adjust as needed.
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Next Work-
-More Frame prep for body fitment-bulb seal, foam
-Mount side louvers
-Test fit body
-Seat and harness install

[gbranham]

Don't mount your side louvers yet. That hole is invaluable for getting to your exhaust bolts while aligning your exhaust to the body cutouts, and you'll have to remove them for bodywork and paint, anyway.

[BUDFIVE]

Good advice. I was going to enlarge the vent openings, mount aluminum angles to the vent horizontals and cement the studs in place. If I do, I’ll leave the vents uninstalled until after paint.

[BUDFIVE]

Great week in the shop this week-Final Prep, First Body Fit and Body Mounting.
Body’s ON—Boo Hah!

Final Prep-
-Last few items before trial fitting body
-Enlarged side louver cutouts
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-Installed bulb seal on firewall, trunk sides, rear horizontal, rear bulkhead outsides
-Assemble windshield (side legs already 13” below lowest side screw so no cutting)
-Removed side exhaust
-Installed tail lights and front turn lights

First Body Fit-
-Plenty of help, 5 guys total
-Placed body for first time with little difficulty
-Executed 10 point checklist on fitment
1) Left to right centering of front-measure front shock tower to fender edge, adjust as needed.-check
Front height was right in line with front body mounts. 3/4” tubing and larger EX-17b grommets lined up fine-5/8” hard rubber spacer was the correct call (Thanks Mr Kleiner)
213144
2) Measure/adjust rear door opening to door striker distance to 1/4”—check
No dash roll interference.
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3) Check/adjust rear height and center—body holes vs Kleiner Mod couplers-check
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4) Check body dash/cowl roll for uniform clearance from dash-a little less clearance at DS than PS. Marked for correction with body off.
5) Body not resting on dash corners-check
6) Windhield-Adjust arm length as required and body holes to allow marking with top side screw center to top/rear door opening distance held at 27”. Only cut about 1/2” off arms. Check, marked.
7) Roll bar holes-needed to be enlarged toward the rear of holes. marked for correction with body off.
8) Mark DS defrost-marked for cut out with body off.
9) Measure clearance between front top frame rails and body along hood line for weatherstripping-at least 1/2”.
10) Check clearance for Breeze radiator top cowl-check, add later.

Removed body and addressed above findings—
-Cut back DS of body dash/cowl roll to marked line.
-Windshield-drilled and tapped for 1/2-13 bolts. Wow brass is soft and grabs the drill. Removed arms and used drill press with slow advancing and small bit size changes.
-Enlarged Roll Bar Holes.
-Cut DS defrost vent and mounted vent and trim plate on cowl. Mounted non-functional PS trim.
-Added 1/2” weatherstrip to hood-side frame rails.

Re-installed the body-
-A little less help (3 guys total)
-Held rear of body up while attaching defrost hose to DS vent, then lowered the body on.
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-Repeated above checklist.
-Dash roll and roll bar hole mods improved.
-Installed windshield. Threaded holes made it easier with just 1/2”-13 bolt + washer. Added backing nut and washer for safety—Note the lower DS backing nut was a true PITA (Required backing bolt out half way to clear nut at frame. Used DS footbox access opening. Jeff K-I hope you aren’t cursing me when you remove the windshield.
-Rear mount Kleiner mod allows back of body to be moved in and out to better align with trunk. Should help soon.
-Absolutely Thrilled! One of my favorite milestones on the build.

Questions for y’all-
-The front seems a little high when viewing front fender to tire clearance (255/40zr17) . But the front mount height seems perfect and it’s three fingers above, in front and rear of tire. Look normal?
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-Windshield posts are twisted more inward than the original cutouts, but they mounted just fine on the frame mounts. Gonna be challenging to make windshield body beauty covers look good. Normal?
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-Rear is a little lower which I suppose I can adjust with ride height later.

I’ve hit the 10 pic max and will send more later.

[gbranham]

I thought mine sat a bit high in the front as well, but it settled a bit with some miles. My front ride height is now around 4 inches.

Greg

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[BUDFIVE]

….and the rear sits a tad lower, too. Thanks gbranham.

[Highplainsdakota]

 Front Body Mount Prep-following J. Kleiner Method
-Cleaned entire body with Prep-All Wax and Grease Remover.
-Used Dremel 60 grit sanding drum to enlarge front mounting holes for the EX-17B grommets.
-Cut stainless 0.75” tubing to four 5.5” lengths. Test fit in grommets.
-Cut 3/8” and 1/4” thick, 3/4” wide x 4” long rubber lengths and cemented together and to top frame tubes just behind the upper radiator cross frame. (3M Super Trim Adhesive). These 5/8” spacers are the starting point for setting the front body height-I have 1/8, 1/4 and 3/8” pieces to adjust as needed.


Looking awesome! I like these mounting ideas. Are the EX-17B grommets something you buy aftermarket? I found them on Amazon. Also where did you get the rubber strips. Are they neoprean or hard rubber? Did you have to order the stainless 3/4" tube for the grommets as well? Sorry for the questions but I'd like to do the same thing. Thanks!

[BUDFIVE]

Highplainsdakota, the credit goes to Jeff Kleiner. He had post #10 in this thread:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?36791-Mk4-front-body-mounting

Metro Moulded Parts is the grommet source.

Tubing is stainless from Online Metals
12927 0.75" OD x 0.065" Wall x 0.62" ID Stainless,

The rubber strips are 3/8( G1430457 ) and 1/4 (G0666556) from Zoro.
I also bought some 1/8 (G1041582 ) in case I need to make a minor addition.
All are 70A on the rubber hardness scale which is pretty hard.

Good luck.

[BUDFIVE]

In spite of central Texas Spring hail, rain and tornadoes, progress on the build.
Fun stuff in the shop-now that the body’s on its like Christmas again, opening boxes with more parts. Installed Racing Gas Cap, Bolted in Roll Bar, Mounted/roughed-in doors, bolted on powder coated QJ’s. This is a really cool part of the build as the car really comes together-I’m stoked!

LeMans Style Gas Cap-
-Settled on 11 o’clock hinge, 5 o’clock latch position (reference driving direction).
-Good fill nozzle clearance from 3 o’clock, drain hole at low point.
-Routed ground wire along fill pipe from cap base underside to tank.
-Also liked 6/12 position but open cap had very little body clearance.
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Roll Bar-
-Bolted With 5/16-18 button head cap screws and nylock nuts.
-Rear angle down tube cap screw and nylock are black oxide to match powder coat.
-Still not real happy with nylock look at this position. May replace with 2 short 3/8-16 button cap screws into tapped tube?
-Delay grommet and trim install to final assembly as position may move slightly and screw holes may be filled during paint & body process.
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Door Mounting and Rough-in
-Goal was to achieve door functionality with minimum material removal.
-Forum Member posts were studied and proved very helpful. Started at top of door, worked to bottom front, then bottom rear.
-Used 2 body attach #10 screws on each side from rocker to frame 2x2. One approximately under the hinges and one under the latch.
-As predicted, PS seemed much easier than DS. DS required significant pull-out of body at door bottom rear to be in plane.
-Achieved smooth interference-free function. Not pretty, but functional. I have just a feeling now for what would be required to make them right. WOW
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Quick Jack Install-
-Installed freshly powder coated QJ’s.
-Used 7/16-14 black oxide flange lock nuts to more closely match powder coat.
-May paint or powder coat the stainless front tubes and rear short sleeves black?
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Part Sourcing, etc-
-Black Powder-coated hood hinges from theShandman for only the shipping cost. They are beautiful-thanks man!
-Black Powder-coated my kit-supplied trunk hinges and Quick Jacks—Nice Work, Chromatic Coatings, Killeen , Tx
-Investigate safety harnesses-recent posts highlight cam-lock vs latch-lock alternatives. Desire 5-point Cam lock, 3” lap belt, 2” submarine belt. Considering 2” vs 3” shoulder belts?

Next work-
-Rough-in hood, trunk.
-Expand side exhaust openings
-Seat & Harness install
-Headlight install
-Countdown to inspection, title, registration.

[OB6]

It's looking great. I appreciate all the detail, as I'm in the same phase of the build.

[BUDFIVE]

Slowly putting the car together-very cool as it looks more and more like a car with each piece. Mounted/roughed-in Trunk Lid and Hood.

Trunk Lid Mounting and Rough-in—
-Goal was to achieve trunk functionality with minimum material removal.
-With lid in place (zero clearance at first) ran a tape line for grind guide.
-Carefully removed minimal material with 3” angle grind sander to tape line.
-Smoothed and rounded edges with 6” orbital sander.
-Used black powder-coated hinge and hinge-lid mounts and black hex button-head screws.
-Opens and closes without rubbing.
-Will address lower line plane with Kleiner mod adjustment and latch.
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Hood Hinge Construction, Mounting and Rough-in—
-Same goal and method for fitting as trunk lid.
-Assembled new powder coated hinges per instructions but without spring washers. Added extra washer over shoulder bolt, tighten then ~1/4 turn loosen to achieve tight smooth operation without lateral slop.
-Mounted hinges to frame leaving loose enough for free movement.
Edit note-On both hinges, the long arm has the upper bushing pressed on wrong side. I fixed this between the hinge pics and the pics with the hood installed.
213566213567213568
-Then mounted hood to hinges and lowered and centered Hood. Tightend nuts on frame mount carriage bolts from under car.
-Installed gas strut.
-Hood operates perfectly.
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-High spot at DS rear of hood will be pulled down with latches.

Part Sourcing, etc-
-Procured black leather wrapped steering wheel from forum member-looking for alternative to wooden wheel. Revisiting paint color choice also. The overall car design needs to have more consistency-is it classy, is it aggressive, etc? Will have future post on this.

Next work-
-Assemble and install latches on doors, trunk lid and hood.
-Expand side exhaust openings, mount side exhaust
-Seat & Harness install
-Headlight install
-Countdown to inspection, title, registration.

[gbranham]

Looking great, Buddy! So exciting to get to this stage!

Greg

[danmas]

You are killing it. Very talented….

[BUDFIVE]

Productive work on the car, despite 95-100+ deg shop temperatures this week. Trunk and Hood latches and more. This is rewarding work as the car gains functionality. But it’s slow as it’s new to me so it requires measure twice+, just taking my time with some good tunes in the shop.

Finishing the Trunk—
-Installed gas strut mounts between seat belt slots on rear bulkhead 3/4” square tube. Struts are at a slight angle but still effective. This was a PITA, especially with my homemade glove box in the trunk-little room for a drill and rivet gun. Would be tough either way so—First Time Builders-Install these mounts before the body!
-Used FFR supplied side-mount bulb seal. Raised lid vs. body plane offset reported last update.
-Installed Lockable Latch and holding sleeve per build manual-no drama.
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Finishing Hood—
-Followed recommendations of Jeff Kleiner-installed round bumper at center of rear body channel and spaced latches 14” out from hood center to pull corners down.
-Drilled and installed latches and striker angles per build manual, no issues.
-Pulled corners down nicely, negating issue reported last update.
-Hood functions well and I love the look of the latches.
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Part Sourcing, etc-
-Recieved black leather wrapped steering wheel from forum member(Discount Brain Surgery)-looks great.
-Ordered&recieved Zamp 5 point camlock harnesses with 3” lap belt, 2” shoulder belt and 2” sub belt. Like the camlock look and feel.

Next work-
-Assemble and Install door latches and leather door swing restriction stays.
-Expand side exhaust openings
-Seat & Harness install
-Headlight install
-Countdown to inspection, title, registration.

[BUDFIVE]

Managed a few hours in the shop and installed the door latches. Marching right along as I get ready for the detailed assembled vehicle inspection (VTR-64) prior to Texas registration and title.

Door Latch Install-
-Assembled Latches per build manual without issue.
-Struggled with marking inside of door for latch mount placement. Manual-recommended technique using supplied rivet tool as a spacer and to square the latch to the striker was not repeatable-the end of the striker was not wide enough to square against. Instead I used 1 very large washer to surround the striker wrench flange plus 3 more washers, all as a stack over the striker to square the latch to the striker plate (perpendicular to striker). This was much more repeatable.
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-Latch mount bases secured with hex head #14 sheet metal screws.
-Striker depth in latch required 2 of the provided washers.
-Latches are functional and overall door function is good-Cool!
213828213829

Part Sourcing, etc-
-Ordered Seat Grommets for pass-through hole in classic low back seat bottom for anti-submarine belt.

Next work-
-Install leather door swing stays
-Expand side exhaust openings
-Seat & Harness install, including submarine belt hole in seats.
-Headlight install
-Countdown to inspection (Texas VTR-64), Texas Assembled Vehicle title & registration.

[BUDFIVE]

Good progress in the shop this week. After finishing some welding on a ranch fence project, I worked 3 days on the roadster-yes, my shop also serves the ranch! I installed the headlights, seats and harnesses. This part of the build is an absolute blast!

Headlight install-
-Substituted Sylvania Silverstar Halogen H2064 lamps. These cars take the same headlights as a Jeep Wrangler TJ and on mine I found these are about the brightest non LED lights in this form factor. Side by side testing on the shop door proved these are quite a bit brighter on high and low beam than the FFR supplied lights.
-No significant challenges, but the chrome mounting ring with a spring clip is kind of a PITA.
-Adjusted height and left-right on closed shop door from 25’.
-Connected all light weatherpacks and zip-tied wiring to secure.

Seat Install-
-JB Welded 3/4” tube to bottom of 2nd seat frame lateral tube to achieve slight incline. I also tried 1” but the incline seemed excessive and further restricted rear position. Bolts go through this stack so the JBW just keeps it in place for drilling.214231
214240
-Positioned seats almost against the tunnel since there’s so little room against the doors and this centered the seat backs on the shoulder harness slots. Seats are also angled approximating the steering wheel and shaft angle.
-Mounted with 4 ea 5/16-18 grade 8 bolts, washers and nylock nuts. 2 @2-1/2” through incline stack and frame floor pan, 1 @2” through frame lateral and floor pan, 1 @4” through frame lateral and 2x2” frame tube. Very solid.

Harness Install-
-Totally new experience which required a good bit of research and install patience to follow manufacturer’s specs.
-Zamp 5 point camlock with 3” lap, 3 to 2” shoulder and 2” submarine crotch belts.
-Installed Lap belts and Shoulder belts with FFR supplied 1/2” bolts, washers and nylocks. Rolled excess and zip tied per tip from Frank at ie427.214232
-Prepped seat bottoms for through-hole with plastic grommets (InoKinetec HS-GT7 Anti-sub) centered 13” forward of inside rear seat wall which is just forward of seat frame incline stack. This pass through hole is required for crotch belts to approximate chest angle on way up to the camlock (Zamp recommendation).214233
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-Attempted to use 7/16” harness eye bolt but no room to bolt sub belt to it, so used wrap around method on seat frame lateral 2 behind and under incline stack. I made three trips to the hardware store and one Summit order before realizing the simple solution was the best-go figure!
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Part Sourcing, etc-
-Ordered Side mirrors from Breeze-these use the wind wing hinges.

Next work-
-Expand side exhaust openings, install side exhaust.
-Install splash guards (rivets, not silicone for removal for painting)
-Prep for side vents-cement mounts, temporary vent install.
-License plate mount and light.
-Install visors, wind wings, side mirrors, windshield mounted rear view mirror.
-Countdown to inspection (Texas VTR-64), Texas Assembled Vehicle title & registration.

[BUDFIVE]

I spent last week in Florida visiting my Mom-it was a good trip but I’m also glad to be back in the shop. So far this week I’ve installed the side exhaust, license plate light & holder and e-brake shifter boot. Another day or two and the car will be ready for inspection and registration.

Side Exhaust install-
-Will probably use polished stainless side pipes if dark gray remains my color choice.
-Cleaned slightly used polished pipes with Compound 302 and polished with Blue Magic metal cream. What a difference!214611
-Leveled (right to left tilt) engine as DS header was 1” lower than PS. Loosened motor and transmission mounts then lifted drivers side-flat bottom oil pan now parallel (slightly above) with bottom of frame rails. Result is ~1/4” difference in header height from ground.
-Opened DS cutout forward toward front wheel well to clearance pipe. Opened PS cutout back toward door and up toward hood to clearance pipe. Iterative process took hours as I didn’t want to remove too much material (3” Angle grinder with 80 grit to remove most material, 220 grit wrapped 2” diameter grease cartridge to reshape corners). Both sides have minimum 1/4” clearance. I think they are close enough for Jeff Kleiner to make them pretty.
-Secured pipes on slip collector with allen socket head bolts and long brass nuts. Loosely connected slip collectors to headers with long hex head bolts and long brass nuts.
-Utilized chassis mount per manual except followed Jeff’s recommendation for only one bolt (vs 2 )attaching mount to side exhaust welded-on bracket.
-Tightened turnbuckle header to frame support to level pipe.
-Tightened slip collector to hold position.
-Happy with pipe position and only slight movement during idle. Great to hear the motor again after 5 weeks of silence (pipes removed to put body on 4/26) :)
214614214615
License Plate Holder/Light-
-Swapped FFR-supplied license plate light incandescent bulbs with drop in LED bulbs (BA9S).
-Utilized template to mark and drill trunk lid for holder per instructions.
-Fished wires from near PS hinge between inner and outer lid halves back to light position.
-Holder is slightly left of vertical from latch as is typically reported in other builds. Texas license plates appear to be short enough (top to bottom) to fit between holder and lid latch.
214617214616

Ebrake Boot Install-
-Finally completed install of the Ebrake boot which was finished months ago.
-Painted trim screws (Black to Gray) with self etching primer then Gray enamel.
-Drilled 4 corners and attached with Gray screws.
-Happy with leather boot made by Ed’s Custom Auto Upholstery in Marble Falls, Texas. Same leather as tunnel cover.
214618

Part Sourcing, etc-
-Previously ordered Side mirrors from Breeze-these use the wind wing hinges. (Due next week)

I’m really enjoying the work on the final pre-paint items and look forward to driving for a few months in gelcoat.

Next work-
-Install splash guards (rivets, not silicone for painter removal)
-Radiator surround metal.
-Prep for side vents
-Install door travel-limit leather straps.
-Install door cards.
-Install visors, wind wings, side mirrors*, windshield mounted rear view mirror*.
-Countdown to inspection (Texas VTR-64), Texas Assembled Vehicle title & registration. Items marked with * required for inspection.

[BUDFIVE]

Knocking out small items before my Texas VTR-852* inspection, now scheduled 6/12. Installed leather door travel limits, visors, wind wings, windshield mounted rear view mirror and started temporary windshield wiper project.
*Texas Note VTR-852 is same inspection as VTR-64 except for Custom Vehicle subset of assembled vehicles. Replicas fall into the custom vehicle category and custom vehicle registration (and license plates) exempts the vehicle from yearly inspection (now only in high population counties). Custom vehicle plates can be personalized.

Leather door travel limit straps-
-Installed per manual with 3/16” long rivets.
-May still relieve inside of hinge for extra clearance and as straps stretch. Will see with final body fitting after paint.
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Visors and Wind Wings-
-Nice option purchased with kit from FFR.
-FFR has a link on the parts page for each pointing to the install instructions.
-Some of the screws are tiny so assembling on a spread out towel keeps them from disappearing in the shop.
-I’m a fan of how these look and anxious to try them out for function.
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Windshield Mounted Rear-view Mirror-
-Decided on windshield mount as kit-supplied cowl-mounted mirror view is obscured by driver-Me :)
-Found 1965 Mustang day/night reproduction mirror-polished with 3 horizontal accent ribs on back and day/night turn knob on bottom.
-Installed with Permatex windshield mirror prep/primer and cement kit.
-Very happy with integration.
214764214765
Windshield wiper-
-Have paper design for several attach methods for temporary windshield wiper kit. Will either utilize the windshield frame channel or sandwhich the windshield glass near the frame. Windshield is ~13” vertical in front of the driver.
-Challenge is most short wiper systems are for ATV/UTVs that expect a hole drilled in windshield. They also have a wiper arm in the 15” range as those are tall windshields.
-What I really want is a 10-12” wiper blade with an adjustable arm length so I can center the blade vertically in the window.
-May have found and ordered a manual wiper kit meeting above- Sea dog 412601 with 11” blade and 8-12” adjustable arm length.

Part Sourcing, etc-
-Previously ordered Side mirrors from Breeze-these use the wind wing hinges. (Due soon)
-Sea Dog manual wiper-expect 6/8.

Next work-
-Install splash guards (rivets, not silicone for painter removal)
-Radiator surround metal (after paint, final body?)
-Prep for side vents
-Install door cards.
-Install side mirrors
-Countdown to inspection 6/12(Texas VTR-852), Texas Custom/Assembled Vehicle title & registration.

[Mike.Bray]

I designed and built a wiper that bolts on for the inspection, let me know if you want any details. Or want to borrow it.

[BUDFIVE]

Mike, thanks.

I recieved the Sea Dog Manual Wiper today and it looks like it will work. My 1st choice design is using square 6-32 nuts in the windshield channel to hold a piece of angle aluminum on top of the windshield frame. The 7/16” hole for the wiper pivot will go through the vertical of that angle aluminum.

I actually got the above idea when I saw a thread on cracked windshields due to the attach screws on the FFR visors over-penetrating the windshield frame. Jeff Kleiner posted a recommendation to use 6-32 square nuts in the channel with the visor attach screws into them rather than the frame. So I’ve got some square nuts coming tomorrow and will try the technique. If it works, I will also re-mount my visors and hopefully avoid letting loose a string of curse words my Marine Corps Father would have been proud of-LOL.

What are the details of your design? Manual or Motor? Mount?
Thanks again.

[Mike.Bray]

I used 6-32 square nuts in the windshield channel for the visors and to mount my manual wiper. I actually designed and 3D printed a mount but your piece of angle will work, same concept.

Funny story, I showed it to the ASE inspector and aske if he wanted me to mount it and he said that was okay. It doesn't actually have to function, you just have to have it here in Texas. Probably could have gotten away with showing him a bottle of Rain X lol

[BUDFIVE]

Mike, too funny. Just one side manual wiper, right?

[cv2065]

I’ve used the 6-32 square nuts in the channel as well, but for the rear view mirror There is a guy on Etsy that 3D prints a bracket for the channel. He does it for a rear view mirror but you could probably use it for other things.

https://www.etsy.com/listing/1227534932/factory-five-roadster-mirror-mount-3d?ls=s&ga_order=most_relevant&ga_search_type=all&ga_view_type=gallery&ga_search_query=factory+five+cobra+mirror&ref=sr_gallery-1-1&organic_search_click=1&sts=1&content_source=f7c57e5415a1fc684e8a1477c7d49cc342b 090df%253A1227534932&logging_key=f7c57e5415a1fc684e8a1477c7d49cc342b090 df%3A1227534932

[Mike.Bray]

Mike, too funny. Just one side manual wiper, right?

Yes, manual wiper. One.

[gbranham]

I bought an Amazon Special ATV/UTV wiper, and spent 10 minutes fabbing up a mount for the windshield channel. It'll be on the car for 10 minutes at inspection time, then it's coming off permanently.

Greg

214849214850

[cv2065]

Personally, I think you need to keep the wiper joystick.:cool:

[BUDFIVE]

I bought an Amazon Special ATV/UTV wiper, and spent 10 minutes fabbing up a mount for the windshield channel. It'll be on the car for 10 minutes at inspection time, then it's coming off permanently.

Greg

214849214850

Greg, mine’s similar-next post.

[BUDFIVE]

Last item before my Texas VTR-852 inspection 6/12. Installed temporary windshield wiper and re-mounted visors with square nuts.

Remounted Visors-
-As discussed in an exchange with Mike Bray a couple posts earlier this replaces the FFR visor mount screws into the channel which have caused cracked windshields.
-Technique posted by Jeff Kleiner which uses 6-32 square nuts in the windshield channel.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?20845-FFR-sun-visors

-Pretty easy change.
-Peace of mind.
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Manual Windshield Wiper-
-Sea-Dog 412601 with 11” blade and 8-12” adjustable arm length.
-Cut custom bracket mount from 1x3x1/8” aluminum angle. Bracket is 1-1/2” wide, 1-1/2” tall with 5/8” depth base.
-7/16” hole for wiper pivot~5/8” above channel. Wiper is intended for UTV/ATV where pivot hole is through windshield. Bracket moves this pivot above windshield.
-Utilized 6-32 square nuts and 6-32 x 1/4” button head screws to attach bracket to top of windshield.
-Adjusted arm length to center blade vertically on windshield.
-Functional and quick to install and remove.
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I can’t believe the car is ready for inspection! Fingers crossed

Part Sourcing, etc-
-Previously ordered Side mirrors from Breeze-these use the wind wing hinges. (Due soon)

Next work-
-Countdown to inspection 6/12(Texas VTR-852), Texas Custom/Assembled Vehicle title & registration.
-Install door cards
-Install side mirrors
-Install splash guards (rivets, not silicone for painter removal)
-Radiator surround metal (after paint, final body?)
-Prep for side vents

[gbranham]

Personally, I think you need to keep the wiper joystick.:cool:

It's hilarious, isn't it? The red knob really ties it all together. Hah!

[BUDFIVE]

BUDFIVE’s build is now Street Legal! A great feeling having my build driveable.
It’s been a great journey so far-2 years since I designed the engine and bought the salvage yard core in June ‘23.

Street Legal-
-Passed Master Tech Inspection (Texas VTR-852).
-Passed VIN Certification (Texas VTR-68A).
-Curb weight measured on certified scales-2340 lbs with 5/8 tank of fuel. Is that about normal for a roadster with a Ford 302 SBF based 347 with aluminum heads??
-Document Submission-Approved by Texas DVM Regional Service Center. Cover letter to County Tax office for submission.
-Registration and Title Application at County Accepted. Registered/Titled as 2023 Assembled vehicle>Custom Vehicle>Replica of 1965 Shelby. Attached temporary license plate and attached the windshield registration sticker. Final License plates will be personalized. Yay!
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***More details of Texas registration and title process at bottom.

Also recieved and installed the Breeze Side Mirrors-
-Billet Aluminum mirror body and mount.
-Mounts in channel of upper FFR wind wing hinges. Easy installation, 15 mins.
-Another very nice piece from Mark at Breeze. Excellent quality, beautiful finish-worth the wait. Note that they shipped about 4 weeks after my order which is consistent with the Breeze website specifying 3-4 week lead time.
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Part Sourcing, etc-
-None

Next work-
-Enjoy my street legal car! Drive a few miles to wring it out prior to paint and body work. Let Jeff Kleiner know I’ll be ready when it’s my turn:)
-Install door cards
-Install splash guards (rivets, not silicone for painter removal)
-Radiator surround metal (after paint, final body?)
-Prep for side vents

***Details of Texas registration and title process below.
-Download Texas Assembled Vehicle pamphlet from the Texas DMV site. This explains the process.
-Texas DMV site has a forms page with necessary forms—130-U title and reg., VTR-852 or VTR-64 inspection, VTR-68A VIN cert., VTR-61 builder/rebuilder, etc)
-The FFR ‘kits’ get registered as an assembled vehicle.
-Custom vehicles are a subset of assembled vehicles which include Replicas. Custom vehicles are exempt from annual inspection which are not required anymore, but….
-Custom Vehicle license plates can be personalized-I did this.
-My car is registered/titled as a Replica of 1965 Shelby, Custom Vehicle, 2023 Assembled Vehicle. 2023 was chosen since that is the date of manufacture of the frame with serial number used as the VIN.

ASE Master Technician Inspection-
-Custom Vehicles use the Form VTR-852 instead of the VTR-64.
-Trailered car from ranch to N. Austin-even though the tech is mobile, my ranch shop is outside his service area.
-Very thorough but efficient technician inspected all systems including fuel, drivetrain, braking, frame welds, signals & lights, wiper, restraints, etc. Some inspection was covered by my verbal explanation of systems—ie. I explained brake line material (316L), fittings used (stainless Earl’s 3AN), flaring (AN single 37 deg), etc.
-No issues found, VTR-852 generated. I feel better knowing a trained set of eyes went over my build.

VIN Certification-
-Trailered car to Burnet for VIN clearance by Auto Crimes Task Force. Texas has seen a surge in stolen, flood damaged, fraudulent VIN registrations.
-Provided FFR bill of sale, receipts on engine block, reciprocating assembly, machine shop, transmission, rear end, etc.
-Proposed Assigning FFR serial # from Certificate of Manufacture which is already etched on frame as VIN—accepted, VTR-68A generated.

Document Generation-
-Visited Texas DVM Regional Service Center (RSC) in Austin.
-Provided package of documents per the assembled vehicle checklist on the site-Body, Frame, Engine Bills of Sale, pictures of car and example of target replica, etc.
-RSC generated a cover letter to the County Tax office certifying all required documents were included.

County Tax Assessor Collector Auto Registration Office-
-Recommend pre-meeting to meet manager or other senior staff in the office. Explain what you’re doing, get their insights and biases. I asked them to review the usual 6-1/4% sales tax with the Texas Comptroller’s office. We are registering an assembled vehicle, a vehicle we built not bought-there is no sale!
-The final meeting with the RSC letter and packet was brief and I walked out with a temporary license plate and window registration sticker in 20 mins.

[gbranham]

Congrats, Bud! Enjoy that summer driving!

Greg

[TXeverydayDad]

Congrats! Huge milestone!

Just for clarity, did you have to pay the 6.25% tax or did they interpret everything correctly and not charge you the tax?

[BUDFIVE]

Greg, thanks.
TXEverydayDad, thanks and my county made the correct interpretation after reviewing with the Comptrollers office, normal title and registration fees only. Sorry I wasn’t more clear.

[Mike.Bray]

Congratulations! It's a great feeling!

You will like those Breeze side mirrors, I'm finding they're actually functional which of course is a good thing. I also installed a Billet Specialties mirror on the windshield and find it is very useful although I did need to design a little mount and have it 3D printed due to the somewhat extreme angle of the windshield.

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I'm the same as you, I was happy to have an ASE tech go over my car, made me sleep a little better.

I'm curious on your VIN inspection, did the trooper ask for receipts for the engine and other parts? Mine only asked for the MSO and Factory Five receipt. They did use the FFR S/N etched on the frame and was happy the VIN plate was also attached to the car.

Did you have to pay sales tax??

Mike

[BUDFIVE]

Mike, for the VIN cert I handed him the major component receipt copies with the FFR paperwork (cert. of manuf.)and asked what else? He was most interested in the FFR paperwork. The DMV RSC was interested in the receipts and kept those in the packet with the cover letter.

What I paid for answered above(Normal title and registration fees)

[BUDFIVE]

Roadster Joyrides-This is a blast!

Joyrides-
-Taking first few drives near my ranch shop-just in case.
-Record rains in April and May washed out sections of our dirt ranch road-I have to trailer the car from my shop 1/2 or 3/4 miles down to the pavement. A PITA, but manageable. So I kept the car covered inside my gate between my weekend drives.
-Will put back on jack stands for a couple weeks of shop work-splash guards, door cards, address anything that comes up in joyrides.
-First 25 miles was round trip to my usual coffee shop in Copperas Cove. I’ve shared stories and pics with the owner since I began with the engine design in June 2023. It was fun to drive up and make it real.
-First Fail-about 2 miles into the 3rd drive, I heard some rattling then excessive exhaust noise on the drivers side—did my side pipe fall off! Nope, the DS header spit out its O2 sensor port plug. Returned to the ranch, grabbed a replacement from my shop and back on the road-not bad.
-Best drive so far was a 25 mile loop of narrow, winding roads in the Texas Hill Country-loads of fun with lots of downshifting, braking and accelerating out of curves. The IRS seems to track well even on irregular surfaced curves. Loops like this are what I had in mind before and during the build.
-93 miles on the odometer as I write this.
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Driving impressions-
-A thrilling driving experience. Very responsive-handling, accelerating, and braking. Totally Different than, and Raw compared to, my refined LS3 Corvette Convertible C6.
May have to keep both :)
-My TKX 1st gear is pretty tall (2.87, 10.18 total 1st with 3.55 rear) and takes a bit of care to roll out without breaking loose. This is exacerbated by my 347 which is a bit nasty-a pretty non-linear torque surge in 1800-2200 rpm range.
-Wicked quick—I love second gear which highlights the flat torque curve when the motor hits its stride. The Dyno runs showed >400 ft-lbs from 3000-5500+. So take 1st to 25 mph, go to 2nd and pull hard to 55 or 60. Glorious!
-5th gear (.81) is very useable at 55+ and starts to wind up at 75, as expected. That’s the trade off between the 0.81 and 0.68 5th—the 0.68 would be nicer at 75, but unusable with my motor below 65. So far, I’m happy with the 0.81. YMMV
-At about 90 degrees F Gauges are normal-50-60psi oil pressure, 180-200 deg coolant, ~14V. Oil Temp barely hit 160 deg with short drive times and 8 qt system-still the sending unit location/plumbing may not be optimal.
-Wind wings and visors control the wind up to 60 or 65. 70+ and the wind is trying to tear off my ball cap.
-Even more proud of Built not Bought!
-**Alert-OLD Fart Remember When moment-Skip if prone to eye rolling**
The TKX has a bit of gear and synchro whine under hard acceleration reminiscent of the Muncie 4 speeds (M21, etc) in the 60’s and 70’s-remember? This may quiet down with break-in and when I change out the break-in fluid (DEXRON III ATF) for GM Performance Syncromesh. I kind of Hope Not.

Part Sourcing, etc-
-Ordered Aluminum Nose piece from Mike Everson’s ReplicaParts. Nice piece, should integrate well with my Breeze upper and lower radiator mounts and cowl piece.

Next work-
-Keep enjoying my street legal car! Drive a few hundred miles to wring it out prior to paint and body work.
-Install door cards
-Install splash guards (rivets, not silicone for painter removal)
-Radiator surround metal (after paint, final body?)
-Prep for side vents

[BUDFIVE]

More Joyrides-
-Drove to a different coffee shop in the Hill Country. It’s an experience-everywhere I go people want to hear the story. My family laughs when I tell them.
-Now it’s a real car-my wife went for a joy ride! She sent this pic to our daughters and their husbands. They asked for her review—“It’s a lotta car, that’s for sure”, she said. Pretty good summary, huh? We just celebrated our 40th anniversary last month so she’s had time to get used to my projects (obsessions). She knows this one’s different. I’m glad I put the camlock harnesses in-she strapped right in for the first time ever in a 5-point.

Picture experiment-2nd pic is same as 1st cropped a bit. Did not get rotated when attached. Trying to learn how to use iPhone pics to post with my iPad without getting randomly rotated.
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-With 125 miles now on the odometer, I put the car back up in the ranch shop tonite to work on remaining stuff for awhile-not all play yet.

Driving impressions-
-Getting more used to the car. I have no idea where the traction limits are yet. But I know how it feels when you get aggressive from a stop-Give it enough to break loose, it slips a bit on the tire with least traction until the Traction-Lok grabs, then it Squats, Hooks up & Scoots as you steer it back straight. Like I said the other day, it’s raw compared to my Vette with features like anti slip control. It feels great though, like if I gave it more gas I would spend more $ on rubber than gas for at least 20 seconds, LOL.

Part Sourcing, etc-
-Bought cheap Miata car cover on Amazon. Mainly for a dust cover in the shop. Useful this week to cover at ranch entrance-kept the critters out.

Next work-
-Keep enjoying my street legal car! Drive a few hundred miles to wring it out in between completing below items.
-Install door cards
-Install Breeze cowl aluminum
-Install splash guards (rivets, not silicone till final assembly)
-Install under door aluminum V’s (few rivets, no silicone or carpet till final assembly)
-Radiator surround metal (pre-fit, adjust radiator angle, install after paint)
-Prep for side vents

[BUDFIVE]

-Returned from 3600 mile road trip from Texas to Wyoming to help a friend build a storage building next to his shop, to Wisconsin to see my grandson and help my daughter finish a kitchen remodel and back to Texas-10 states in all. Went to a great car show while in Sheridan, Wy—300+ cars including 2 nice cobras. Last year I did this loop in my C6 corvette-this year I whimped out and took my wife’s Lexus ES350-man that’s a cruiser! Glad to be back in my ranch shop wrenching on the Roadster.

Side Exhaust-
-Originally I thought I just needed more clearance between the side exhaust cutout and DS pipe. Actually it was that the exhaust was mounted too low and too far inboard on (under) the body. Not sure how/why I did this as I liked the PS much better and had better ground clearance on that side.
-Re-positioned the DS exhaust out and up, like the PS. This moved the multi-pipe turn out further, providing better clearance to the body cutout and ground, especially at the top of a loading ramp.
-Tightened all header, collector ball flange, and side exhaust bolts since I had a few heat cycles and driving vibrations during the first drives.
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Tuning Tools-
-As discussed in previous posts, I am very happy with the car’s driving performance including the 347 built in my shop. I do have a few flat spots and surges I plan to debug.
-While I wanted a vintage-like carburetor and distributor, I believe in modern tools for optimizing. I’ve already discussed the Bluetooth connected Progression Ignition Distributor with built in electronic module for RPM vs MAP timing control.
-This weekend I installed a Performance Electronics Wideband O2 module, also BT connected. Utilizes common Bosch LSU 4.9 WB O2 sensor and under hood module to pre-heat sensor and display real-time AFR or Lamda.
-Combination gives me real time data on Timing, MAP, RPM, Vacuum, AFR/Lamda. MAP vs RPM grid cells are programmable and can be adjusted and downloaded to the distributor on the fly. So, Even though some of you (like Mike Bray) think my carburetor is horse and buggy technology :) ,I have most of the debug tools modern EFI provides. These 3 pics are all snapshots on my phone this morning while running the 347.
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This reminds me of teasing other engineers when they used numbers with too many digits to the right of the decimal…..”You’re measuring marshmallows with calipers” LOL!

Happy Wrenching……..

Part Sourcing, etc-
-Nothing new

Next work-
-Keep enjoying my street legal car! Drive a few hundred miles to wring it out in between completing below items.
-Keep in contact with Jeff Kleiner for guidance on what to complete or not prior to body & paint.
-Install door cards
-Install Breeze cowl top aluminum
-Install splash guards (rivets, not silicone)
-Install under door aluminum V’s (few rivets, no silicone or carpet yet)
-Radiator surround metal (pre-fit, adjust radiator angle, install after paint)
-Prep for side vents

[BUDFIVE]

Productive week in the shop-while up on jack stands I pulled the wheels/tires and installed the splash guards and side vents.

Splash Guards-
-Very little trimming required during test fitting. I chose to cut out a notch in the DS Rear splash guard to surround the fuel tank flange-remember this is my 2nd fuel tank due to a leak after bending the flange on the first one.
-The rear edge of the F-panel was bent too far forward and needed to be bent rearward on both DS and PS (different from not enough bend suggested in other posts).
-Spash guard treatment:
Front Guard-Sprayed tire side of guard with Raptor Bedliner, Also masked around and sprayed most of tire side of F-panel to match. Treated engine side with Sharkshide to match rest of engine compartment aluminum.
Rear Guard-Sprayed tire side of guard with Raptor Bedliner, Also masked around and sprayed most of tire side of rear bulkhead to match. Sprayed outside of splash guard with black paint to match outside of trunk aluminum.
-My urethan reducer was medium speed (70-80F) so I sprayed the Raptor first thing in the morning with 1st coat shop temp of 72F and 2nd coat temp of 80. I used the same recipe and pressures as I did in February for spraying the underside of the body:
24 oz Raptor black, 8oz Raptor Hardener, 4oz medium urethane reducer, 54psi static at the gun.
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-Riveted with 1/8” aluminum rivets (3/16” aluminum rivet for lower body interface) without silicone for ease of removal for
body removal during painting.
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Side Louvre Vents-
-Pre-assembled FFR Vents
-Easier to attach side vents before front splash guard final attach.
-Used method documented by Edwardb with slight modification.
1)attached 2 angle aluminum pieces to each vent with 8-32 screws and nylock nuts.
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2)Used bond-able 10-32 studs with HSRF and 10-32 nuts under & wing nuts over the angles to temporarily space 1/4” out from bond until cured.
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3)After HSRF cured, replaced 10-32 nuts & wing nuts with nylon lock nuts.
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I’m very happy with the black wheel wells, side vents and side exhaust look.
I put the tires/wheels back on the car-Ready for another couple hundred miles of driving. YAY! I do like driving a bit, taking notes, then putting back on Jack stands in the shop for a week or two of work.

Part Sourcing, etc-
-Nothing new

Next work-
-Keep enjoying my street legal car! Drive a few hundred miles to wring it out in between completing below items.
-Keep in contact with Jeff Kleiner for guidance on what to complete or not prior to body & paint.
-Install door cards
-Install Breeze cowl top aluminum
-Install under door aluminum V’s (few rivets, no silicone or carpet yet)
-Radiator surround metal (pre-fit, adjust radiator angle, install after paint)

[BUDFIVE]

Added Skidplate and Bought SE Trailer. Managed some project time in between ranch projects-I got my hay stacked for the winter and drove 50 t-posts on a 1/2mile fence I’m replacing. It all keeps me busy and mostly out of trouble ;)

Skidplate-
-Sourced from cobratowbar.com
-3/16” 6061 aluminum held to frame rails with counter-sunk flat head 10-32 bolts.
-My Kevko rear oil pan rear sump is ~1/8” below frame tubes and otherwise unprotected.
-Used 1/4” x 1” aluminum flat stock as spacers for plate. Epoxied to and drilled through plate as guide.
-Not sure if a hard hit on a speed bump wouldn’t drive the plate back, sheering the 10-32s but should prevent rock punctures.
-Low part of vehicle is still the Metco driveshaft loop mount.
-The front to rear placement I wanted to protect the sump also covered the pan drain plug so I cut a ~2”x2” notch opening for oil changes.
-Have ~1/8” clearance from sump bottom ribs (bead rolled for stiffness?) to rear of skid plate. Would prefer more clearance but it’s a tradeoff-more clearance to pan is less clearance to ground. Curious if engine torque will roll the engine enough to contact plate? Will it torque rotate 1/8” only 2” from centerline? Might insert some modeling clay, drive a bit, then measure how thin it got.
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Serpent Express Trailer-
-Picked up Serpent Express 16’ (including dovetail) soft-sided enclosed trailer from a Factory Five MK2 owner in Seguin Texas.
-Nice, well taken care-of trailer. Still, i plan to go through the hubs/brakes to make sure they’re ok before any long trips.
-Towed easily 130 miles from Seguin to my Kempner shop with Chev 2500HD. Gas mileage only dipped 1-1.5 mpg on return trip compared to trip down. Of course this is with the trailer empty. We’ll see-YMMV :)
-Glad to have a covered solution for trip to/from painting and other future trips.
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Part Sourcing, etc-
-Ordered some Rhino USA tie downs for the trailer.

Next work-
-Keep enjoying my street legal car! Drive a few hundred miles to wring it out in between completing below items.
-Keep in contact with Jeff Kleiner for guidance on what to complete or not prior to body & paint.
-Install door cards (might wait so Velcro attach doesn’t need to be replaced).
-Install Breeze cowl top aluminum
-Install under door aluminum V’s (few rivets, no silicone or carpet yet)
-Radiator surround metal (pre-fit, adjust radiator angle, install after paint)

[BUDFIVE]

Happy Labor Day! I wanted to get out a quick update after a couple weeks.

First a quick digression:
This is Fall Round Up weekend on the Ranch-all the cows get corralled and run through the squeeze chute for shots and wormer. We chose replacement heifers to keep and culled bull calves for rodeo ropers. After my 30 years in hi-tech, ranching is a welcome change back to a simpler way of life. And, hunting season starts this weekend……OK, back to the Roadster! :)

Enjoying the light work load on the cobra before paint and body work. The car has been on jack stands for 8 weeks for additions and maintenance but it’s time to drive some more so I tightenend & checked fasteners and fluids before back on road.

Tighten Manifolds & Oil Pan-
-Reminded by gbranham (8/16 build thread post) to check intake manifold bolts after a few temp cycles-thanks Greg.
-First 120 miles and >10 temp cycles since last tighten.
-Edelbrock Performer RPM Air Gap held by black oxide studs with 12-pt flange nuts.
-All fasteners were still snug and reached 18 ft-lbs with <1/4 turn.
-Re-tightened header and side exhaust bolts.
-Re-torqued oil pan bolts

Suspension components-
-Checked all suspension bolts for tightness including control arms, shocks, rear toe links, etc.
-Both rear Toe link 5/8x2.25” frame mount bolts were only moderately tight. During assembly of the IRS, I was missing some other bolts which FFR quickly sent me. So I had the IRS partially assembled while waiting for the shipment. Somehow I never final torqued these 2 bolts-good things I checked. They are now Torqued to the manual spec-100 ft-lbs.

Checked All Fluids-all were good.
-Engine oil
-TKX lube
-Ford Super 8.8 lube
-Brake Reservoirs
-Power Steering Reservoir
-Coolant

I’m excited to have the car ready to drive again this week. Quite a few changes (described in earlier entries) and additions since the last drive 6/30-
-Wheel wells Raptor-lined and Splash guards added
-Side Vents added
-DS Side exhaust re-mounted
-PE Wideband O2 sensor and Bluetooth AFR controller/meter
-Carburetor adjustments (main air bleeds, accel pump nozzles, etc)
-Skidplate added
-Fastener & Fluids check

Clean up-
My car was uncovered in the shop for weeks and this left the car pretty dusty. Also, the engine compartment was dirty from driving without splash guards. I had a few friends coming by who wanted to see the car for the first time so a quick clean up was needed.
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Part Sourcing-
-None to Report

Next Work-
-Back on the road this week
-Install Breeze cowl top aluminum
-Install under door aluminum V’s (few rivets, no silicone or carpet yet)
-Radiator surround metal (pre-fit, adjust radiator angle, install after paint)

[BUDFIVE]

I’m sending this update from Florida where I’ve been flying back and forth from Texas to help with an ill relative. While in Texas last week I moved the roadster down off jack stands and trailered it from the ranch shop 65 mi to our home in Horseshoe Bay. I enjoyed driving another 110 miles (237 mi total now) to more coffee shops around Horseshoe Bay and Llano. The more I get used to the car and the more minor refinements I make, the more I like it.

This update includes notes on more driving impressions, trailer work and tie-downs plus a bunch of detail on tuning out a ~2000 rpm hesitation/surge
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More Driving Impressions-
-The car has settled ~1/4” from 4.5/4.75” F/R ride height to 4.25/4.5”. There is no change in camber or driving feel. I may raise it back to the original height if clearance is a problem or if it settles more.
-Steering is very responsive and tracking is stable with no twitchiness.
-With the latest ignition timing refinements (Below detail) the driveability has improved. Driving on the highway (55-70mph) in 5th, part throttle cruising into town (40-50) in 4th, and in-town stoplight to stoplight driving are all enjoyable. The most fun is running through the gears with the mechanical secondaries about to open or just open-hang on!
-The car sounds great to me, but it’s loud. With a high compression 347 and FFR headers/side pipes it’s no surprise. But it Will cause hearing damage. Per edwardb’s recommendation on the forum I ordered some Etymotic ER20XS earplugs which should cut the noise down by as much as 20 db but hopefully still let me hear the tone. I am also researching CC Inserts for the side pipes.
-I’m not used to the brakes yet-it seems like I have to push pretty hard. Then again, the last car I drove with manual brakes was my 1970 Firebird! My build has 13” brakes (2004 Mustang Cobra dual piston front, 2018 Mustang GT Rear) with Powerstop Z26 pads that I bedded per Pstop recommendation. The pedal is firm. With a 2340 lb car, the 13” rotors may never heat up so cold application performance (initial grab, low temp friction coefficient?) might be a key pad spec? I may repeat the bedding sequence even more aggressively in case the first pass didn’t heat them enough. I haven’t found much technical data (coefficient vs temp graphs) on the z26 pads. From other forum posts i maybe my setup may point to something like Hawk HP+? This is out of my expertise and too early for action, but please feel free to comment.

Trailer checks/maintenance-
-I mentioned in an earlier post I bought a used Serpant Express 16’ dovetail soft-side trailer. To be sure of what I have, I inspected all 4 of the Drum/Hubs on the tandem 3500lb axles.
-The brake shoes and the drum part of drum/hubs were fine.
-The Outer wheel bearing cages were pretty loose so I replaced all 4 inner and all 4 outer bearing and race sets and repacked the 4 drum/hubs with fresh Lucas red & tacky grease.

Trailer Tie Downs-
-The Trailer’s previous owner had a cobra and had bolted down 2 2x4s for front wheel stops.
-None of my ranch equipment hauling straps had snaps, clips or other ways to secure their hooks in place if the strap went slack from suspension compression etc, so I bought the following ratchet straps:
4 Rhino HD 3709/11128lb (work limit/break limit)2” with snap hooks
+ 2 MD Rhino 1666/5000lb 1-1/2” with retention clips
+ 2 HD Rhino axle straps
+ 1 HD safety chain
-Securing Strategy:
A) 2 ratchet straps straight forward from car front frame loops to D-rings. Prefer HD straps.
1 Safety chain from frame front straight forward to d-ring in case both ratchets fail, car won’t roll off the back of trailer.
B) 2 ratchet straps straight back from axle straps at rear of car to D-rings. (4’ each) Prefer HD strap. Axle straps placed around inner-most section of IRS lower Cntrl arms adjacent to frame bushing mount.
C) 2 ratchet straps in an X, crossed from axle straps at rear to opposite D-rings to prevent lateral movement. MD straps would be fine.
The front frame rings (front of 4” frame tubes) and front trailer D-rings are only 24” apart which is less than the minimum length of the HD straps. So I’m currently using MD straps for A) and HD straps for B) and C). I may weld or bolt additional D rings farther forward to allow using HD straps for A) and B) and MD straps for C) which is my preference. 219125
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-I towed the car on the trailer the 130 mile round trip, including 3/4 mile in and out on the rocky dirt ranch road, without issue-all 6 straps remained tight. Any recommended changes?


!Detail-Skip this Detail if carbs and distributors make your eyes roll!
Tuning Past a ~2000 rpm hesitation/surge-
-I felt a flatspot/hesitation/surge in the rpm range at about 2000 rpm where at part throttle cruise if additional part throttle was applied, the car hesitated (did nothing) then would surge. Classic debug-is it fuel (carburetor) or is it spark(distributor/coil)?
-Carburetor is a Brawler 650 w/ mechanical secondary. At symptom, throttle is light enough it could be still using the transfer slot coming off idle to part throttle. The Primary Transfer slot throttle plate engagement was properly set with carb removed. So, I checked AFR with my PE wideband Bluetooth O2 sensor during the symptom and the ratio was mid to high 13’s (13.5-13.9) which is good for stable power output.
-Checked all spark plug wires and verified clean 12V to coil. Ignition is Progression Ignition digital Distributor with MSD Blaster 2 coil. The Distributor has an integrated MAP sensor and BT connectivity to a phone. The timing table generation tool lets you set idle speed*, idle advance, max rpm based timing (mechanical), and max-timing-by what rpm, redline and MAP-based timing adder range (vacuum advance). You also select if you want an aggressive timing ramp early in rpm range. *The distributor adjusts timing to “help” the car settle on the selected idle speed.
-Driving through the symptom, I monitored actual timing advance. The table (18 idle, aggrsv) Idle timing was programmed to 18 + 0 advance with an aggressive low rpm timing ramp. So the 1860 to 2190 range part throttle timing was ramping from 27 to 29 (MAP=64kPA)or 28-30 (MAP=57). Was aggressive part throttle timing (27+)making too much torque with minor gas pedal application? Did this make it jumpy?
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Note-these MAP (lower MAP is higher vacuum) values correspond to a manifold vacuum >6.5 inHg which is the installed power valve opening in the Brawler so not at a lean to rich boundary which would surge. (Note 6.5 inHg = ~ 79.5 Kpa at 30.0 inHg atmospheric barometric pressure).

-I generated a new table with the same (18) idle timing, idle speed, rpm graduations, etc but a timing ramp later in rpm’s. In the symptom rpm range of 1860 to 2190 the timing then ramped from 22-26(MAP 64) or 23-27(MAP57), a bigger rise from 1860 to 2190 but lower total. I pushed this table to the distributor via Bluetooth and repeated the test-much better. The response felt much more linear with throttle change in the rpm range. But, then I noticed the throttle was too sensitive when letting the clutch out from a stop-it’s tough to put in words but it was jumpy when feathering the gas from a standing start(850 to 1520 rpm range) so I reduced the idle timing to 16 degrees, regenerated and tried again-better still. Anyway, the overall driveability improved with more linear feeling responses over the next 20 miles of stop and go mixed with highway driving. The idle has a bit more chop at 16 than 18 deg advance but I like the driving better. Virtually none of the cells at >2500rpm were changed as the cruise performance has been great. Good for now-I can regenerate a table or edit cells as necessary with more driving. New installed table (16 idle, slower ramp)was built with-
Idle speed 850rpm, idle 16deg adv, total rpm based 32deg adv by 3200rpm, MAP timing adder 0 at MAP=80 ramping to 10 at MAP=20, redline 6000.
MAX timing is 42 (32+10) at >3200rpm, <MAP=20.
!END of Detail!

Part Sourcing-
-None to Report

Next Work-
-Keep Driving the Build every chance I get
-Install Breeze cowl top aluminum
-Install under door aluminum V’s (few rivets, no silicone or carpet yet)
-Radiator surround metal (pre-fit, adjust radiator angle, install after paint)

[BUDFIVE]

It’s been about a month since I posted the last update. During that time I finished a 1/2 mile fence I was rebuilding on the ranch to make an unused pasture available for the Longhorn herd. Back to the build-I put the roadster back on jack stands to address three items: Seat mount bolt replacement, under door aluminum fitment, nose aluminum pre-fit.

Seat mount bolt replacement-
-I had previously mounted the seats with 4 ea 5/16” bolts w/ washers through the 1/2” seat frames. The hex heads over washers on the front 2 bolts stuck up enough they interfered with the plastic seat bottom submarine belt hole fittings. Driving the first 250 miles, this was more of an annoyance than a problem as the seat seemed like it needed to settle when I got in the car.
-Replaced the mount bolts with 5/16” button head bolts w/out washers. This allows the plastic fitting on the seat bottom to sit even and should be a solution.

Under door aluminum fitment (question below?)
-Test fit the aluminum “V” pieces under the body door opening. These fit under the body’s door opening curl and rivet to the 3/4” frame rail V to make the door sill.
-Drivers side piece (pic 1) fits nicely under body but lands where bottom of aluminum is only 1/2 on the 3/4” frame rail. This may be enough for riveting will not look right unless I carpet there-I was hoping to pre-drill and cleco for pre-fit, send for powder coat, then install after paint.
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-Passenger side piece (pics 2,3) will need the top trimmed ~1/8” from the v bottom back in order to fit under the body.
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-Given the above it occurs to me the body may position differently after the painter (Jeff K) removes and replaces the body. Question-Do I want to trim and drill these pieces now or just wait till after paint and body work—things may move. Thoughts?

Nose aluminum pre-fit-
-Michael Everson’s Roadster Radiator Aluminum Panel. Replaces or in addition to FFR nose aluminum pieces. Should be installed after final body placement. This is prefit prior to body & paint work.
-The aluminum is shaped for a 58 degree radiator angle vs my original radiator placement at 51 degrees with Breeze upper hinge and lower mount. I re-drilled the bottom 3/4” nose frame tube and moved the lower radiator mount back to allow a swing range of 55-60 degrees. This way I can loosen the lower mount and swing the radiator back to ease pushing the aluminum to rear and forward into the body nose curl. For now, Tightened at 58 degrees for more pre-paint/body work driving.
-I had screw-mounted the lighting and horn ground wires to the inside of the upper 3/4” nose frame tube. NOTE First Time Builders-Both the FFR nose aluminum amd Everson’s nose aluminum mount to the inside of this tube so careful locating wires there. I re-located these ground wire mounts to the underside of the upper nose frame tube.
-Piece now fits nicely in and radiator swings forward and will meet correctly with the bulb seal installed on the aluminum. It’s takes a bit of bending and pushing so I will have to carefully tape the painted nose to avoid scratching. I stepped back and looked at the nose with the unfinished aluminum and natural color radiator-awesome! I was going to powder coat this piece but I’m now wondering if I should just finish it with Sharkshide? Dang, I should have snapped a pic.

Part Sourcing-
-None to Report

Next Work-
-Install Breeze cowl top aluminum.
-Keep enjoying the red roadster.

[BUDFIVE]

The weather has been fantastic in Texas this week-60’s, 70’s and 80’s and great for working in the shop. Here’s is a quick build update—I installed the Breeze Upper Radiator Cowl Cover.

Breeze Radiator Cowl Top Cover-
-This cover aluminum is powder coated black and the trailing edge is pre-drilled to rivet to the frame front cross 3/4” tube.
-I had previously mounted the right headlight and e-fan wire loom to the top of the cross tube which was now in the way of this install. I used 4 longer upper radiator mount bolts and loom clamps held with nylock nuts onto these longer through bolts.
-Drilled frame tube and mock-assembled with clecos.
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-Added bulb seal to the round edge which interfaces with the underside of the body. This forms a nice seal and will help funnel air through the radiator.221006221007
-Substituted black rivets (kit provided silver) for final assembly.
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-Michael Everson’s aluminum nose piece will sit under this upper cowl cover completing the air funnel.

Part Sourcing-
-None to Report

Next Work-
-Keep enjoying the red roadster.

[BUDFIVE]

Happy New Year Forum Friends! It’s been quite a while since I updated y’all-I spent most of December going to the Southern tip of Argentina and Chile. Anyway, I got the Cobra out and put 150 miles on it in the Texas Hill Country last week. What a blast running through the gears in 75 degree sunshine in January. THe more I drive the car, the more fun it is. Since I now have 517 miles on the car, I performed a 500+ mile service this weekend.

500 mile Service-
-Car on jack stands general inspection. Messy oil leak from oil filter area rearward on frame rails, skid plate, etc. Apparently caused by oil filter 90 degree adapter o-ring not sealing properly. The filter rolled edge was interfering with the oil pan rolled edge, leaving the adapter misaligned. I had used the adapter to clear a path for the clutch cable (over the motor mount) which was originally obstructed by the large FL-1A filter. But the 2 o-ring adapter design must be perfectly aligned and I don’t want a finicky car. So, now I made room for the clutch cable using the shorty version of the FL-1A, which is the FL-300 with no adapter. I like the move toward simplicity.

-Engine oil: Drained and refilled the Kevko 7+ quart pan with Driven GP1 10W-30 semi synthetic. The GP1 was formulated by Lake Speed using Pennsylvania crude and is one of the best he’s tested for low engine wear.

-Tremec TKX Transmission Lube: Drained the break-in Dex/Merc ATF and refilled with GM Peformance Synchromesh. I filtered the surprisingly clean break-in fluid through a shop towel which caught a tiny bit of dust (synchro material?). I’m anxious to see how the TKX shifts and sounds with the Syncromesh-I hope it still has a bit of gear whine as I run through the gears. :)

-Ford Performance 8.8 with Trac-loc Rear End Lube: Drained the Motorcraft 75W-85+LSD additive. Both the drain plug and fill plug are magnetic and had a good bit of fine black material on them. The fluid was also pretty murky so I was glad the recommended break-in service is 500 miles. I filtered this fluid and didn’t trap anything worth noting. I consider the 75W-85 pretty thin—Ford also recommends 75W-140 when the 8.8 sees severe duty (F150 towing). Redline has introduced a GL5 75W-110 which “is designed as an intermediate viscosity providing additional film strength over 75W-90, yet less drag than 75W-140”. So I refilled the 8.8 with ~2.5 qts of Redline 75W-110 + 4 oz of Motorcraft LSD additive.

-Power Steering: Sucked out the fluid and refilled with the new Lucas Power Steering Fluid.

-Brake Fluid: Both reservoirs remain full of Motul 600 DOT4.

-Coolant-no leaks and 50/50 Prestone mix still looks fresh.

While driving 150 miles last week I added 5 degrees more MAP advance (15 max total, aka vacuum advance). This continues improving the driveability and fuel economy.

Part Sourcing-
-None to Report

Next Work-
-Keep enjoying the red roadster. When the weather forecast is nice, I’ll continue to add mileage prior to hauling it to Indiana for Jeff Kleiner’s magic.
-Note and report any differences observed with above lube changes.
-Fuel mileage test on cruising loop.

[gbranham]

Not that it hurts anything to change it, but I don't think it's necessary to change your rear diff and power steering fluid after 500 miles. That diff should be good for 50,000 miles before a fluid change. Think of all the hundreds of thousands of new Fords that had that 8.8; people weren't headed to the dealership after 500 miles to swap the fluid. And I've never changed power steering fluid in any of my cars.

Greg

[BUDFIVE]

Greg, I understand your point. But, I’ll explain my thinking-

-Rear Diff: I bought this loaded differential & housing new from Summit (M-4001-88355B). But for the build I bought a lot of other mustang parts from LMR in Waco. Their website recommended the following for the Ford 8.8-“ For the Ford Performance M-4001-88355B loaded differential housing, the first fluid change should occur after a short break-in period, typically around 500 to 1,000 miles. This initial change is essential to remove any assembly lube, metal shavings, or fine particles from the new gears and bearings that are created during the initial break-in period. ” The fluid was pretty contaminated and the magnetic plugs were covered so I’m glad I changed it. After the first change they do show a more typical interval of 30-50K miles.

-Power Steering: This was a new Saginaw pump from CVF. Changing the fluid in the reservoir was overkill, but easy and I had the fluid on the shelf. I did filter the fluid to check for any metal, etc and found nothing.

[gbranham]

Nothing wrong with swapping the lubricants, that's for sure. Arguably the most important (and perhaps easiest) thing you can do to ensure the longevity of the oily bits. :)

Maybe I'll swap my diff fluid now...nice winter project. I'm bored! Hah! You've inspired me, my friend!

Greg

[BUDFIVE]

We’re having a nice weekend in Central Texas including 80 degree sunshine today. So I got the roadster out and drove 50 miles in the Hill Country-566 miles now on the car. On this drive I tried a 1/2” carb spacer. AFter performed a quick alignment and ride height check.

Drive with carb spacer-
-First drive since 500 mi all fluid service. I drove a bit more aggressively with all break-in complete.
-The TKX shifts even more smoothly with the Syncromesh and yes it still has the beautiful gear whine as I run through the gears.
-Added 1/2” open plenum carb spacer (insulating plastic) for thermal isolation and driveability experiment. Verified hood clearance with balls of Play-doh. My air cleaner with 4”x14 filter still just fits.225332
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Very little change in driveability with approximately +0.5 in AFR (leaner) at cruise and 0.5-1 in-hg loss in idle vacuum. This is typical when adding an open plenum spacer on a dual plane manifold-there is a reduced signal to the boosters and less Venturi-effect fuel draw. The carburetor does stay cooler even when allowed to heat soak after a drive. But, overall I think it’s the wrong tradeoff for my combination. I may try a 1/4” spacer or lose the spacer idea all together and leave well enough alone. I’m still working to improve <2000 rpm driveability (surge, etc) but not surprised the experiment didn’t improve it.

Quick alignment and ride height check-
-With 566 miles on the car, the handling continues to impress me. I did drive more aggressively now that all break-in is complete. The 347 small block easily breaks the IRS loose coming out of turns so caution is required. What a blast!
-I made a plywood ride height gauge and checked. The under frame clearance is 4-1/4” vs my targets of 4-1/2” front, 4-3/4” rear. I will adjust the coilovers.225335
-I checked all four corners and camber is closer to -1 deg than -0.5. Does this make sense with the lower ride height?
-Front Caster remains 7.5 degrees.

Part Sourcing-
-Sniper 2 system in the open box sale at the Summit outlet. The Summit Outlet is for returned merchandise, similar to the Cabelas Bargain Cave-Yay.
-Holley 12-886 15-60 psi regulator, remaining parts to make a compete sniper 2 system (temp sender, harness, etc).
-Future upgrade on the shelf.

Next Work-
-Adjust ride height then recheck camber at all four corners. Check toe-in
-Is it time to upgrade to fuel injection now? I had designed the fuel system with an in tank 255lph Walbro style EFI pump and 3/8” (6AN) feed and return lines to the firewall. Involves a regulator swap from 12-887 to
12-886 and minor fuel line re-routing. I was planning for later, perhaps after paint and body work.

[Mike.Bray]

-Is it time to upgrade to fuel injection now?

You're about 30 years past time :rolleyes:

[BUDFIVE]

Another week of nice, unseasonably warm weather in central Texas. So, more productive time in the shop.
I decided to accelerate my EFI project and do it now. Yes Mike.Bray, finally!
As I mentioned in my last update I had acquired an incomplete Sniper 2
system in the Summit Outlet and the required pieces to make it complete:
-including 558-190 PDM main harness. Even though I am not using the PDM (power dist module), all the wires are the same as the more
expensive 558-191 non-PDM harness with fuel pump relay. The RF harness already has a fuel pump relay.

Holley Sniper 2 Install Project-
Mechanical-
-Installed the Sniper 2 throttle body on the Edelbrock Performer RPM Air gap manifold.
-Re-used Lokar 4150 throttle cable bracket with replacement, longer 8-32 bolt into the throttle body indexing slot as locating pin. I couldn't make myself spend $126 on a replacement Lokar Sniper 2 bracket. If I have inconsistent TPS (Throttle Position Sensor) performance, I’ll revisit this.225596

Sensors-
-Removed coolant fan trigger sending unit from thermostat housing. Will control fan with Sniper.
-Moved temp gauge sensor from intake manifold behind distributor to thermostat housing. I know this is not optimal as
the gauge will not be accurate prior to thermostat opening (180F).
-Installed Holley CTS (Coolant Temperature Sensor) in now available hole behind distributor. This is the higher priority sensor.
-Installed Holley WB-O2 sensor in passenger side header bung.

Wiring (similar to forum member posts, thanks Papa, others)-
-Dedicated Sniper 2 connector to CTS.
-Dedicated Sniper 2 connector to WB-O2
-16 pin connector to 558-190 Main Harness. wires:
-Red 12 ga power to Master kill switch ON bus, closest to 2 ga battery+.
-Black 12 ga ground to 2 ga battery- cable at frame.
-Pink switched 12v to RF sending unit harness tan choke wire. RF orange coil/EFI wire remains on coil+.
-Yellow coil- wire to - post on coil for synchronization, rpm.
-Blue fuel pump trigger temporarily capped with heat shrink. Not using Sniper for fuel pump control, yet.
-Black/yellow wire in 6 pin I/o harness to RF sending unit harness dark green. This is user programmable Fan 1
output ground trigger wire.
-All other unused wires capped with heat shrink.

FPR and Fuel Lines-
-Replaced 12-887 carb FPR with footprint-compatible 12-886 EFI FPR.
-6AN line from Fuel Pump/filter output to forward Sniper 6AN port-this became Sniper fuel input.
-6AN line from rear Sniper 6AN port to FPR IN.
-6AN line from FPR return to fuel tank.
-FPR OUT capped since FPR is after the Sniper in the fuel flow and only requires return.

Pre-Startup, With key in Run/on position-
-Checked for fuel leaks and adjusted FPR to 60 psi.
-Updated ECU and 3.5” handheld firmware.
-Used tuning menu to program fan relay trigger. Tuning>System>Outputs Fan1 on = 195F, off=185F
-Used Wizaard to establish startup fuel maps. Utilized street-strip cam setting for 8-13 in-hg vacuum, mine is about 9-10.
-Verified all sensors were responding.

Startup, TPS adjust, Drive-
-Turned the key, and it fired right up-what a nice surprise. Idle speed was high with too much primary throttle plate open.
Adjusted screw down to reasonable speed. Allowed to warm coolant to 160F+ per instructions.
-Adjusted Throttle primary idle screw until IAC = ~5% at programmed 850 rpm idle.
-ECU entered closed loop operation and began learning.225597
-Drove 25 miles to a local coffee shop with varied speed, throttle, load.
-Saved config file with interim learning to share with a forum member with Holley
tuning experience. (Thanks BobL!)

Part Sourcing-
-Holley CAN to USB-A laptop tuning dongle-delivered.

Next Work-
-Continue Sniper 2 learning and tuning.
-Consider wiring Sniper blue fuel pump ground trigger wire to grounding terminal in RF inertia switch. This will move fuel pump control to the Sniper 2.
-Adjust ride height then recheck camber at all four corners. Check toe-in.

The Sniper 2 conversion was straightforward and took about 2 to 2-1/2 shop days. It helped that I had designed the fuel system to accommodate carburetors and EFI. I have to say the Holley documentation is excellent and I am pleased with the driveability after a short learn-mode session. Time, driving and tuning will determine the final benefit. Its early, but so far so good.

[Mike.Bray]

Way to go!

Now you can tune without getting gas on your hands lol Don't you love how it fired right up?

Is that a dual plane intake? Throttle body EFI does better with a single lane intake.

[BUDFIVE]

Mike, sorry for a long answer but this is a great topic to go deep.

yes, my Edelbrock Performer RPM Air gap (#7521) is a dual plane manifold. My understanding is people had trouble with some Throttle Body Injection (TBI) systems (Sniper 1?) on dual plane manifolds due to a sensor on the bottom only seeing half the engine’s vacuum signal. It was believed that TBI systems worked better on single plane manifolds. Some people reported success with a TBI on an open plenum spacer in between the throttle body and dual plane manifold. And, Edelbrock milled the plenum divider down about 1/2” on the air gap I believe to improve high rpm performance and cross plenum signal sensing (RED arrow in pic). Blueprint’s crate 302s and 347s with Sniper 2 use the company’s own dual plane with the divider milled down. The only sensor I see on the bottom of the Sniper 2 has a vacuum trench so both sides can be sensed. So, I believe this is a non-issue with Sniper 2. But this is in part why I was experimenting with open plenum spacers in my last update. If I run into problems tuning with the Sniper 2, I have 1/4” and 1/2” open plenum spacers to try.
225661
But why try hard to use a dual plane manifold? The good dual plane intakes have a lot more in their design than it may seem. On the Edelbrock air gap, the passenger side (PS) plenum feeds the outer 2 PS cylinders (1# and #4) and inner 2 DS cylinders (#6 and #7), as shown by the BLUE lines in the pic. This is to make the intake runners about the same length for each cylinder and longer than in a single plane. And the Ford 5.0 HO and *351W firing order is 1-3-7-2-6-5-4-8. The PS plenum Intake runners are every other cylinder in the order (1—-7——6—-4), each 180 degrees of crank rotation apart. This is all about intake velocity and strong vacuum signal for excellent driveability with strong low and mid range torque. Popular you tube channels like Richard Holdener’s and Engine Masters have shown dual plane manifolds on street engines almost always produce more torque up to ~5000 rpm than single planes. And, almost always more average torque accross a useable RPM range.
*For completeness I should point out the taller deck 351W has a wider intake manifold and longer intake runners than the 302 and 347 (302 block). This plus the stroker crank helps your 393 Windsor make plenty of torque with a single plane Proflow4 manifold. :)

[Mike.Bray]

Very interesting! I have less than zero hands-on experience with TBI and haven't messed with an intake/carb setup in over 30 years. One you go stacks you never go back lol

I do have a ProFlo4 that I might use on my 427 for the Camaro but seriously thinking about using these instead.

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[BUDFIVE]

Hey Y’all, a quick update-I took the roadster out for 35 more miles today, up to 601 miles total. I wanted to continue letting the Sniper 2 learn with a variety of driving conditions. For most of the drive, the ECU was compensating < 10% from its new learned map. Drivabilty remains excellent and I dont sense any loss in raw power.—I let it rip to about 5500 rpm in 2nd gear a couple times-glorious! Anyway, I recorded a couple of datalogs on the handheld’s SD card and transfered them to my PC to view with the Holley Fuel Injection SW-very cool.
I also saved the config file with todays learn. I will keep saving periodically so I have interim steps to fall back. I emailed all the files on for review. 225707

[Mike.Bray]

Are you missing your carb and the cool sound it makes yet? :cool:

[BUDFIVE]

A quick update while I enjoy putting a few miles on the roadster (627 total now). I took a good friend, JW who has helped a bunch on the build since the very start, on a 30 minute cruise. We did some easy cruising with a few spirited cycles through the gears. I also spent some time in the shop— I fitted the under door interior aluminum pieces this week.

Under door interior aluminum fittings-
-Aluminum piece, one for each side, that has a vertical that fits under the curved door opening inside the body and a horizontal that attaches to the top of the top 3/4” frame tube to form a door sill.
-On the passenger side the aluminum’s vertical needed to be trimmed ~1/8” down from curve of the door opening from the 1/2 way point in the opening rearward. Then the piece could be pushed under the door opening lip and the horizontal drilled and cleco’d into the frame tube.225830225831
-On the driver side the aluminum fit but the body’s door opening sat further outboard of the frame by about 3/8 so the cleco location is biased toward the outside and the aluminum only covers 1/2 the frame tube.
-There are two really odd shaped carpet pieces to cover both aluminum pieces, horizontal and vertical. I think I may spray paint the aluminum black and then perhaps cover just the horizontal part with carpet. Then, I may use some angle aluminum to cover the carpet eges at the inner top corner of the door sill.

Part Sourcing-
-None

Upcoming work-
-Paint and rivet the fitted under door aluminum. I wont silicone in place or add carpet since these will need to be removed for paint and body work.
-Fit, drill the aluminum nose piece purchased from Michel Everson. The radiator has already been tilted to the correct mating angle, 58 deg.
-Rest ride height and recheck alignment (camber)/

[BUDFIVE]

I’m working on some finish details in between joy rides and some kitchen remodeling work at our place in Fort Worth. Anyway, I painted the under door trim pieces that I fitted for last update and riveted them in place-again without silicone so they can be removed for body and paint work. I also installed the custom covers for the fuel tank access holes in the trunk floor.

Under door interior aluminum-
-Painted with Rustoleum Professional Aluminum Primer and Rustoleum Professional High Performance Enamel semi-gloss black.
-Positioned with Clecos then riveted with black aluminum rivets.226191
-I’ll probably carpet just the horizontal part of these during final assembly.

Trunk Floor Access Covers-
-My machinist friend (JV) who has helped a lot in the build used a 3D printer to make these.226192226193
-Prototype 1 wasn't thick enough (aluminum+carpet+insulation) and under car air pressure blew them out of the holes.
-Version 2 was thicker (~3/8”) and had tabs at the bottom of the sides to snap or click into place with down pressure. One fit perfectly and was in place for about 200 miles so he printed another. I’m happy with the solution.226194
-Material is polycarbonate blended with carbon fiber.226195226196

Part Procurement-
-none to report.

Upcoming work-
-Fit and pre-drill the aluminum nose piece purchased from Michel Everson. The radiator has already been tilted to the correct mating angle, 58 deg. I don’t think this should be riveted in place untill after body and paint-I’ll check with Jeff Kleiner.
-Reset ride height and recheck alignment (camber)

[Jim Doak]

Thanks for the detailed Sniper 2 install info. I may use it if I decide to convert to EFI on my car. (It has a carbureted BluePrint 302.) I only have 28 miles on my car and it's currently at the painter's shop for bodywork and paint.

It seems to run pretty well with the carb, but like you, I built my car's fuel system such that it'd be easy to convert to EFI.

I converted from a carb to EFI (Sniper 1) on my first car, however; I was not impressed. Lots of problems, possibly related to RF interference.

Looking forward to seeing more updates.

[PMD24]

Really like those 3D printed hole covers. Any concerns about moisture getting in?

Pat

[M22_COBRA]

Build is looking great! You are keeping me motivated for first start in spring. Good idea on the 3d printed covers. I might try the idea myself. Maybe with a 2 piece clamshell, heat stake inserts, and a compressive O-ring cord in the proper groove on the bottom to keep water out.

[BUDFIVE]

Jim, you’re welcome-not often I’m thanked for all my detail :) So far, so good on Sniper 2. I’ll update as it learns and as I manually program changes.

Pat, good question. Do you mean moisture from below while driving on wet roads? If so, they are a pretty tight fit and held down tight. The insulation has adhesive to the aluminum so between those layers should be good. I don’t think water could seep up and then between the insulation and the carpet-the contact cement on the carpet is not much of a barrier though. Maybe it could go all the way up and wick sideways into the carpet—By then I think its wet enough its soaked the carpet in the passenger compartment from the above (rain).

M22-thanks on build. I look forward to your first start.

[BUDFIVE]

I have been working on a checklist made during 500+ mile maintenance. This included a leaking upper ball joint boot on the front passenger corner as well as resetting ride height and checking alignment specs.

Passenger Side Upper Ball Joint Boot-
-Boot distorted and leaking grease from upper ball joint. Discovered during 500 mile service.
-Separated ball joint from spindle with newly aquired Performance Tool separator. This was facilitated by cutt8ng old boot with box knife. Tool works great-tightened then rapped spindle with hammer to pop the joint free.227569
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-Installed new Energy 5.13102G and carefully held in place while tightening castle nut to pull spindle back to UCA. The ball joint is at an significant angle because of the 7-8 degree caster (upper joint behind lower joint).
-Regreased to bulged boot without leak.
-I must have pinched the original (also 5.13102G) during initial assembly.

Ride Height and Alignment-
-Confirmed tire pressure 23psi on all corners. Adjusted height to my desired specs-distance from shop floor to bottom of 4” frame tube even with rear of front tire (4-1/2”) and just in front of rear frame flat weld (4-3/4”). Minimum settling with no more than 1/4” adjustment needed.
-Checked camber. All corners at -0.5 degrees except passenger front was -1. Lengthened both UCA legs by 1/3-1/2 turn CW on both turnbucklesto achieve -0.5 deg—equal amounts to not change caster.
-Confirmed both front corners measure 7-7.5 degrees caster.
-Anxious to put some more miles on!
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Part Procurement-
-none to report.

Upcoming work-
-Drive under more conditions to fill in Sniper 2 learned fuel map. Love the Sniper 2 so far.