Another Parts Question Side pipe exhaust

[maclonchas]

Folks,

I am getting ready to temp install the side pipes prior to first start and want to make sure of the correct bolts from the side pipe to the collector prior to the header. The manual shows that 3/8”x 1.25” socket head screws and
mechanical locknuts are required for this lash up. I cannot find those bolts in my packaging. Can someone confirm they are socket head screws or have they been replaced by some other bolts.

Thanks

Bill

[Jeff Kleiner]

Yes, they are socket head. I STRONGLY recommend that you do not use the mechanical locknuts (AKA Stover nuts) until final assembly---if ever. They are a royal pain to install and remove and you'll be doing that several times. For now just use regular nuts and lock washers.

Jeff

[rich grsc]

Best thing you can use is brass nuts. They won't corrode, and are easy to remove even after years of being on the exhaust.

[maclonchas]

Thanks. This helps

[scrubs]

Best thing you can use is brass nuts. They won't corrode, and are easy to remove even after years of being on the exhaust.

This works nicely. I double them to lock in place. They do need some re-tightening with the first few heat cycles (at least mind did).

[Jeff Kleiner]

Best thing you can use is brass nuts. They won't corrode, and are easy to remove even after years of being on the exhaust.

Yep, plus they'll stay tight. The recipe that I've recommended for final installation is brass coupler nuts...

https://www.zoro.com/static/cms/product/large/Grainger_NUT6091024xxa11f1e.jpeg

with buttonhead bolts...

https://static.grainger.com/rp/s/is/image/Grainger/61JD10_AS01?$adapimg$&hei=536&wid=536

Jeff

[boat737]

I used ARP 12pt stainless machine screws with brass coupling nuts. The coupling nuts that I used were about 2 inches long, so I cut them in half. I think bronze nuts will work well also.

The stainless 12pt's look very nice. A big bonus also, is easier access with a 12pt wrench or socket due to smaller head size.

[toadster]

just ordered these today - same thing I'm trying to do, somehow some bolts got lost when I took to the painter, so duplicating the hex head bolts and adding the brass nuts

3/8-16 x 2" Socket Head Cap Screws Allen Socket Hex Drive Bolts, 304 Stainless Steel 18-8 A2-70 (https://amzn.to/3MOEJaO) $10 for 10Brass Hex Nut - 3/8-16 In. (https://amzn.to/49JCoYv) $16 for 25

[maclonchas]

Thanks for all the information and ideas. I will be ordering the brass nuts and replacing the screws

[AC Bill]

I wish I was aware of the brass nut solution when I was building my roadster. Those Stover nuts were brutal to work with. Mind you, they stay tight forever...:p
Couple of things to keep in mind before you get to deep into the job.
It's been a few years since I was messing around attaching my side pipes, but there was a builder's trick of using slightly smaller diameter bolts than the ones supplied. Perhaps 5/16" size, if the 3/8th are the size they come with? This would allow for some slight up/down angle adjustments when mounting the side pipes. The larger flange holes allowed the smaller dia. bolts some play, to help you level the pipes.
The in/out adjustments for the pipes (if needed), required steel wedge shims, available in varying thickness's. Two flange gaskets per side were required if using the wedge shims. I use Remflex gaskets when available. Copper RTV silicone also works apparently. You need the body on of course before any adjustments required can be determined.

[toadster]

Got my nuts and bolts today could probably go with shorter 1.75” long bolt but they fit the gasn headers perfectly and the coyote equal length headers

192465

note: not tightend down :)

[Bill Elliott]

Yes, they are socket head. I STRONGLY recommend that you do not use the mechanical locknuts (AKA Stover nuts) until final assembly---if ever. They are a royal pain to install and remove and you'll be doing that several times. For now just use regular nuts and lock washers.

Jeff

Is the same recommended for the ball mount on the header

[rich grsc]

That's what I would do

[Jeff Kleiner]

Is the same recommended for the ball mount on the header

Wouldn't hurt but the problem with the ball flange is the same as with the J-Pipes...even with the bolts super tight the weight of the sidepipes and the leverage involved still allows movement at the joint which results in the front of the pipes drooping. I make some front hangers to supplement the rear hangers and keep that joint stationary. J-pipes shown in these pics but they are the same for ball flange headers & pipes. It's all just a few bucks worth of hardware store turnbuckles, nuts and bolts and a generic Mustang style double donut rubber tailpipe hanger.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=181943&d=1679580697

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=181945&d=1679580735

Good luck,
Jeff

[BEAR-AvHistory]

2X on Jeffs suggestion.

Have J-pipes & been using turnbuckle based supports between the pipe & frame for years. Have never had an issue with the pipes loosing up or sagging.

[Pete&Scott]

I wish I had found this thread before using the Mechanical Locknuts. Need to remove my side pipes to trim the side pipe opening in the body. They are a pain to remove, especially when trying to work through the side louver holes. I felt like I was a large animal dentist working on some Rhino teeth!!!!

[Myron Nelson]

MK5 builders beware. I was sent the wrong side pipe hangar package.

[Jeff Kleiner]

Love my brass nuts and have been using them for over 40 years! Just put this one together a few days ago :)

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=227138&d=1774283077

Jeff227138

[Tooth]

I double nutted them after final install.