MJS Coupe Build

[MSumners]

Time to get the new build thread kicked off. Finished the roadster build just over a year ago and missed the build process and decided to go with the coupe for the next project. Ordered on new years day last year and took delivery today. I actually delayed delivery for a few months as there were simply too many irons in the fire to even consider taking delivery and getting started. Had a sizeable flood at a cottage early in the year and spent the entire summer re-renovating the lower level. Still crazy busy however planning to build similar to the roadster, at least 20 minutes most days of the week and the progress comes surprisingly fast.
Build plan / ordered:
Coupe complete kit, bare frame, IRS, Coyote gen 3 (or 4 depending on timeline), PS, red Wilwoods, QA1's, classic instruments gauges, gasn pipes, non-halibrand wheels, kirkey highbacks, NRG quick release wheel. Most parts I've actually already acquired over the last 2 years.
Goal is to keep the build as simple as reasonable and clean.

Can't wait to get started and really excited my son (8) is old enough to be interested in helping and learning.
Delivery was complicated by the crane on the truck being broken, we actually lifted the chassis onto my dolly, then had a flatbed tow truck back up to the Stewart truck so we could roll it off. Really actually went quite quick and was smooth. Also really excited to have the new space to work in and have a lift.

Going to get through inventory obviously first. Ive read through the instructions at least once but will have to follow them for progression as a know the panel install is a bit different for the coupe. Anything recommended as a must-do prior to taking the body off other than what the manual says? That likely wont be for a bit.
POL list is very short. Only two things missing are the wiring harness and one other part that I'm currently forgetting.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=192090&d=1699668863

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[JimStone]

Congratulations on the delivery! I look forward to watching you're progress. If this build is anything like your Roadster, we're in for a treat

And that's one heck of a workshop space. I think you're good on headroom :D

[Namrups]

Welcome to the coupe family! You will love it.

[David Williamson]

Welcome to the "Coupe" world. Wow nice shop
David W

[Jim1855]

Mike,
Congrats on the coupe. Looking forward to seeing it.
There are now 4 coupes under construction in the Grand Rapids area.
The new shop looks great, big upgrade for the previous garage.
Jim

[MSumners]

Wow I didn’t realize there were 3 others in the area building a coupe. Probably a crew at the meetups you host that I always miss:). Agreed on the build space. Amazing! having a lift to work with and I’ve hardly started.

[Jim1855]

Mike,
I'll probably organize a winter, "let's tell stories (lies) about cars" coffee at some time or maybe a group lunch, dive bar of course. I'll keep you posted.
There're four roadsters as well, including my Challenge Car.
Jim

[Mark Eaton]

Nice! And I love your work space. I need to up my game in my shop and get some of those fancy floor tiles!

[MSumners]

Inventoried and got the body off and panels removed. I’m taking some time prepping and refitting the panels before I send them out for powder coat. I’ll probably drop them off when I get the chassis done might as well do it at the same time to save a trip.
The only two things on the entire inventory I haven’t found yet are two specific fittings. Before I give up hope and notify factory five I’m going to go through the listed box again to check.
Already making a small pile of things I know I’m not using.
Re-introduced to my friend the cleco today.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=192172&d=1699851462

[Bob Brandle]

Welcome to the Coupe Group Journey!
Amazing shop you've got there.
What are some of your key build/design or ultimate usage plans for your Coupe?

[MSumners]

Mike,
I'll probably organize a winter, "let's tell stories (lies) about cars" coffee at some time or maybe a group lunch, dive bar of course. I'll keep you posted.
There're four roadsters as well, including my Challenge Car.
Jim

Sounds great

[MSumners]

Welcome to the Coupe Group Journey!
Amazing shop you've got there.
What are some of your key build/design or ultimate usage plans for your Coupe?

Thanks! Planning a coyote and TKX. Love the idea of the aluminator but 28k!? Ordered IRS. Power steering. Heat and AC. Gasn pipes. I haven’t completely ruled out the t56 at this point and need to look into it more. My goal for the build is to keep it reasonably simple (yes goals are made to be broken) and build something I can drive as much as possible. Would love to get it to the track sometime and learn some things (looking at you Jim) but lately time constraints make this nearly impossible. So generally street, cruising, very little track time, simple-ish build with serviceability. And more importantly get my son involved as much as he is interested.
My current plan has been to take the build all the way through to completion and do body and paint as well. Would definitely need to do a lot of research and a mentor (or 4) for that process but certainly have some time.

[MSumners]

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=192392&d=1700198219

[MSumners]

Lots of adjusting, angle grinder, drilling, fitting and repeating.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=192478&d=1700455754

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=192479&d=1700456176

[rhk118]

Congrats and welcome! Looking forward to following along. Love your space!

[MSumners]

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=193020&d=1702006154

Not too much time lately for the build. Have managed to get all of the aluminum panels (pre body install ) fitted drilled and removed. Also managed to test fit the front and rear suspension and noticed everything actually fits very well. I remembered adjusting the mounts doing the roadster build and anticipated having to do the same but none of that was required here.

Anyone think I should do anything else before sending off to powder coat?

[UpNorth]

Hi,
Could you comment on your BendPak lift set?
Looks like they’re « integrated » in your garage, am I right?
I built my Coupe on 4 candle posts and thought many times that I should’ve get a set like you did.
Thanks.

Francois

[MSumners]

Hi,
Could you comment on your BendPak lift set?
Looks like they’re « integrated » in your garage, am I right?
I built my Coupe on 4 candle posts and thought many times that I should’ve get a set like you did.
Thanks.

Francois

The bendpak lift is the 6mds-F-EXT. in the mid rise flush mount version they make a regular length and an extended length. In retrospect maybe I should have gone with the regular length but too late now and works great. I planned out the lift when I was designing the barn and much easier to get the concrete correct on a new pour as you can pour around the framed out area and install conduit for the lines to run. The controls are just to the right of the lift and near the wall so it has easy air line and 220v access. In the area under the lift support base there is 5-6" of reinforced concrete so would be a bit more work to install after the fact given the depth.
The extended version seemed like the better idea at the time as I'll be using the lift for a humvee project and a ram truck as well. If you've ever pulled wheels on and off a humvee you know why. Each one seems about as heavy as the coupe frame. It doesnt lift so high you can just walk under the car obviously, so doesn't have that feature you would get with some 2-posts.
I've never had a different lift or ever really worked on one but I can say I love the fact that the platforms are essentially out of the way when you are working. It was a bit to install but really not too bad and the instructions are very clear. Just a bear to hammer drill the 3/4' mounting holes through the rebar. Looked for some images of the install in progress. The platforms do descend and sit completely flush with the floor so if not being used you wont trip over anything. Overall if doing it over again, for my intended use, I would pick the same lift.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=193068&d=1702092591

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=193067&d=1702092551

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=193069&d=1702092655

[burchfieldb]

You may want to check your mounts for the IRS to see what your drive line angle will be. Mine was pointing down at .5 degrees towards the floor, which caused some issues. I ended up having to make custom bushings to fix the problem.

[MSumners]

You may want to check your mounts for the IRS to see what your drive line angle will be. Mine was pointing down at .5 degrees towards the floor, which caused some issues. I ended up having to make custom bushings to fix the problem.

Thanks for the heads up. Haven’t ordered the engine yet so won’t be test fitting things beforehand though. However, doesn’t this get adjusted by spacing the tail of the transmission off the mount?

[burchfieldb]

Thanks for the heads up. Haven’t ordered the engine yet so won’t be test fitting things beforehand though. However, doesn’t this get adjusted by spacing the tail of the transmission off the mount?

If it is pointed down, it causes the drive shaft angle to be too much, and the transmission was hitting the frame. You can check without the engine and transmission, install the center section and use a digital angle gauge on the driveshaft mount face. Use the frame as the horizontal zero point.

[MSumners]

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=193232&d=1702436844

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=193233&d=1702436886

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=193234&d=1702436909

Working on a few final things before sending the frame out for powder coat. Making the driver footbox lid removable and added a hinge. the hinges is 16” SS and after fitting it powder coated it black. I’m going to try to powder coat as many of the small bare steel bits as I can in the little convection oven. Things really turn out surprisingly good using the simple process. Getting pretty good at loading that little tiny oven up.

[MSumners]

And…. I just looked back at my images of the body before removal. I’ll be making a new driver footbox lid, HA. Seriously cannot believe I just did that. At least I’ll have a nice black hinge to use on something else.

[burchfieldb]

And…. I just looked back at my images of the body before removal. I’ll be making a new driver footbox lid, HA. Seriously cannot believe I just did that. At least I’ll have a nice black hinge to use on something else.

Yep, happens to the best of us. I drilled some holes in my frame for the screw clearance size, instead of the tap drill size, got them mixed up while switching bits in the drill. I will be welding, grinding, and redrilling those. I also cut a piece of sheetmetal referencing the wrong edge on my pattern and now it is too small. :rolleyes:

[MSumners]

Nothing major going on just getting some sub-assembly steps done and ordered aluminum for the replacement footbox panel, thicker trans tunnel and front firewall lower section. Wow has aluminum spiked since I last ordered! Got the wilwood rotors together and safety wired, fuel pump assembled with the 255 Wal bro and ProM hanger and fuel tank ready, shocks assembled. Looks like the wiring harness is on the way that was the final POL. I picked up a few things from the 12 days sale including the windshield wipers, lithographs for the walls and the FF steel sign. Put a chrome powder coat on it and got it hung.


https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=193567&d=1703212921

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[MSumners]

Was able to make the new trans tunnel cover and the replacement footbox lid. Used 0.063 6061 t4 for the trans tunnel cover and I think this is about the limit for my small box brake. For the last lip I used the official humvee bumper hitch support piece which weighs about 35 lbs and works great as a bench brake. Slowly plugging away powder coating all the small pieces I can.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=193607&d=1703391779

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[MSumners]

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=193754&d=1703783822

Has anyone popped these brass pins out to disassemble ? Looking to powder coat. Looking for any advice or pointers.

[MSumners]

Tested the fuel resistance of the black powder coat I’m using by soaking a test piece in gas for 6 hours. Looks completely unscathed. Test passed. This is prismatic stone black.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=193798&d=1703909917

[Stangarang]

Mike, I wanted to start with nice build up to this point. I love how you mention getting your son involved. I have planned to build my Coupe with my oldest son as a bonding moment. I haven't ordered my coupe yet. I have around $25,000 in parts though. Keep up the good work. I plan to follow your build as a reference.
Michael

[MSumners]

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=193826&d=1703994147

Is that the correct rough placement of the radiator tunnel upper piece? Can’t seem to find it in the manual, looks like some changes were made since the images.
Thanks for any input!

[burchfieldb]

Yeah, that is about where mine landed.
193840

[MSumners]

Yeah, that is about where mine landed.
193840


Thanks !

[rhk118]

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=193826&d=1703994147

Is that the correct rough placement of the radiator tunnel upper piece? Can’t seem to find it in the manual, looks like some changes were made since the images.
Thanks for any input!

Mine is pretty close to that as well, angles just slightly more forward. I'm not going to rivet that piece to the sides until the hood is fitted, that way can angle forward or back a little if needed to reduce the gap to the hood as much as possible (hope that makes sense).

[Namrups]

Mine is pretty close to that as well, angles just slightly more forward. I'm not going to rivet that piece to the sides until the hood is fitted, that way can angle forward or back a little if needed to reduce the gap to the hood as much as possible (hope that makes sense).

Initially I used the factory bent angle just as was posted here. It left a large gap between this piece and the hood. I removed mine and "flattened" the bend so that the hood now rests on the bulb seal.

Waiting to fit the hood before riviting this piece on is something I wish I had done.

[MSumners]

Thanks for the Recs!

Finished mocking up the rad tunnel. I had to trim a bit off the lower edge ( just over 1/8”) of the radiator and shroud to get it seated enough. Otherwise it wouldn’t quite sit low enough for the upper mount ears to sit flat.
Also shifted the radiator far to the driver side to minimize the outlet interference.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=193874&d=1704068286

[MSumners]

Mike, I wanted to start with nice build up to this point. I love how you mention getting your son involved. I have planned to build my Coupe with my oldest son as a bonding moment. I haven't ordered my coupe yet. I have around $25,000 in parts though. Keep up the good work. I plan to follow your build as a reference.
Michael

25k is a lot in parts! Hopefully that includes an engine!

[rhk118]

Also shifted the radiator far to the driver side to minimize the outlet interference.

Good move - Shifting the radiator to the DS will also leave the gap needed for the lower condenser line (if running AC) later on. Not there yet, but anticipating it!

[Stangarang]

25k is a lot in parts! Hopefully that includes an engine!

Not yet. I have Wilwood brakes with electric parking brake. A T-56 with Shift relocation kit. Centerforce dual disc clutch. BC Forged rims 18x12 and 18x10. I plan on an Aluminator Coyote with a Roush 750HP Stage 2 Supercharger. Already have a new Moroso oil pan and pickup.

[Stangarang]

Good move - Shifting the radiator to the DS will also leave the gap needed for the lower condenser line (if running AC) later on. Not there yet, but anticipating it!

Check out Youtube channel Cobra Daytona Build. I saw one of his videos mention that he moved the radiator to the side and ended up with it hitting the nose hinges. May want to check fitment now.

[MSumners]

Check out Youtube channel Cobra Daytona Build. I saw one of his videos mention that he moved the radiator to the side and ended up with it hitting the nose hinges. May want to check fitment now.

Thanks for the heads up I’ll look at that placement

[David Williamson]

The early gen 3 cars like mine did not have the angled piece for the rad aluminum, it was one piece. I wonder if the change was made to get some air flow in the engine compartment for cooling?
David W

[MSumners]

I’ve bought houses with less thought than I’ve now put into my gauge setup decisions.

[MSumners]

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=194148&d=1704502074

Tool of the week.
Absolutely couldn’t hammer the pre-installed bushings out of the steering rack and was able to press them out in about 10 seconds with this. Also worked great to pull the steering hub (RT setup) off the roadster.

[MSumners]

Otherwise getting the RT assembly and quick release put together, briefly disassembled the system for powder coat.

Getting re-acquainted with the wiring system and trying to plan out as much as possible before install.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=194149&d=1704502074

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=194150&d=1704502074

[rhk118]

Ahhh! Wiring Harness, thats my next project! Your powder coated RT turn signal came out really clean, nice job!

[MSumners]

Totally missed this in inventory. Looks like I just chopped up 2 right hand spindles. Ahhh. Totally my bad. Have to order a left. Unless I’m missing something but these are both right hand?

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=194459&d=1705163754

[Namrups]

Yep.

[MSumners]

Contacted factory five to order a left spindle and they are sending one out. I expected to pay but they said they would just send one out. As always excellent service that’ll keep customers coming back.
In other news. Anyone have use for a pre-cut right handed irs spindle?

[MSumners]

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=195296&d=1707076997

First early cruise of the year!

[460.465USMC]

Hi Mike. Not sure how I missed the start of your Coupe build. Just got caught up. Congrats! I will be following along. I enjoyed your Roadster build. Looking forward to your next update.

P.S. I'll join the chorus of admiration on an incredible looking shop you have. Well done! No doubt you'll enjoy the Bendpak lift as well. I've had my Bendpak four-post lift for about eight years. It's a game changer.

[MSumners]

Not yet. I have Wilwood brakes with electric parking brake. A T-56 with Shift relocation kit. Centerforce dual disc clutch. BC Forged rims 18x12 and 18x10. I plan on an Aluminator Coyote with a Roush 750HP Stage 2 Supercharger. Already have a new Moroso oil pan and pickup.

Just noticed this about the shift relocation kit. Does that put the shifter further to the rear? From some images of other builds it seems the shifter is rather close to the dash with the coyote /t56.

[MSumners]

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=195443&d=1707346649

[Stangarang]

Just noticed this about the shift relocation kit. Does that put the shifter further to the rear? From some images of other builds it seems the shifter is rather close to the dash with the coyote /t56.

It locates about 4.5inches on center from the dash. I went with a 6" straight shift handle.
Michael (sorry for not seeing this sooner)

[rhk118]

First early cruise of the year!

Fabulous! :cool: Midnight blue metallic?

[MSumners]

Fabulous! :cool: Midnight blue metallic?

Lexus indigo ink!

[MSumners]

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=195571&d=1707625476


Ready for test fitting. Planning to put the coyote -t56 in tomorrow to check the trans tunnel crossbars for interference. That way I can modify whatever is needed before powder coat.

The amount of wiring to plan out is becoming a rather big pile and the coyote control pack wiring certainly made it a bit taller. On the flip side I think I have everything I need to dig into wiring planning.

[MSumners]

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=195592&d=1707695219

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Successfully got the engine/trans installed today! Good practice before the frame has powder.
Once I realized there the hoist wouldn’t reach going straight in from the front everything was quite painless doing the side-loader maneuver. Definitely going to be cutting the trans-tunnel cross brace out. There is interference with the shifter and has to be gone to lift the trans tail high enough.

[Cincy123]

Can’t you unbolt the shifter and rotate it 180 degrees on the T56 to avoid the interference?

[MSumners]

Can’t you unbolt the shifter and rotate it 180 degrees on the T56 to avoid the interference?

On my initial fitting with the seat I feel like the shifter position may be too far forward there for my liking but am certainly going to check again.

[edwardb]

Can’t you unbolt the shifter and rotate it 180 degrees on the T56 to avoid the interference?


On my initial fitting with the seat I feel like the shifter position may be too far forward there for my liking but am certainly going to check again.

Mine is the exact combination as yours (Coyote, T56, IRS) and personally I think the shifter is in the perfect position after shifting 180 degrees. Falls right under my hand while sitting in the seat. I don't think it would be as comfortable at the rear location. The shifter plate ends up close to the underside of the cross piece. But my pinion angle is fine. I'd be a little hesitant to cut the cross piece on the Coupe chassis. Unlike the Roadster, those are larger and thicker pieces and appear to be more structural. Sure would need to be replaced with something just as substantial if cut/removed.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/ab234/edwardb123/IMG_0286.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/ab234/edwardb123/IMG_0286.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

[Kbl7td]

Agree with the sentiment here, put your seat back in and check position. That is going to be way too far back unless you have t-Rex arms.

[MSumners]

Mine is the exact combination as yours (Coyote, T56, IRS) and personally I think the shifter is in the perfect position after shifting 180 degrees. Falls right under my hand while sitting in the seat. I don't think it would be as comfortable at the rear location. The shifter plate ends up close to the underside of the cross piece. But my pinion angle is fine. I'd be a little hesitant to cut the cross piece on the Coupe chassis. Unlike the Roadster, those are larger and thicker pieces and appear to be more structural. Sure would need to be replaced with something just as substantial if cut/removed.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/ab234/edwardb123/IMG_0286.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/ab234/edwardb123/IMG_0286.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)


Thanks Paul I appreciate the check -in here and the advice! I’ll check seat position again I must have it too far back! Great if I can just rotate the shifter and avoid re-welding the cross braces.

[MSumners]

Agree with the sentiment here, put your seat back in and check position. That is going to be way too far back unless you have t-Rex arms.

Ha! Thanks as well for the recs, I’ll recheck position I’m sure I must have my estimated seating position too far back.

[MSumners]

Thanks for the reality check. My hopes of joining the NBA are over and moved my seat forward. Now my legs reach the foot box. Easiest switcheroo ever rotating the shifter plate. Didn’t realize it was going to be that easy.

Got the engine -trans pulled back out and the frame is heading to powder coat on Thursday with the panels which have all (most) been fit, drilled, (repeat).., scuffed, cleaned. It’ll be a game -time decision on exact color based on the in/stock options. Basic black will be a backup.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=195631&d=1707868677

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=195632&d=1707868677

[MSumners]

Note to self: when you rent a car hauler trailer make sure it has loading ramps so you don’t have to muscle a frame up and in the doors. ( a friend told me that )

.. oh hello ibuprofen

[Randy312]

Hey. I took delivery of my coupe in early December. Really enjoying the process. I’ve been trying to find a RT turn signal. Where did you get yours?

[MSumners]

I actually had ordered it about 1.5 years ago from Russ when I was planning the build and accumulating parts. I know someone else (I believe) is making them now, maybe someone else has the link?


Hey. I took delivery of my coupe in early December. Really enjoying the process. I’ve been trying to find a RT turn signal. Where did you get yours?

[Stangarang]

Mike, I apologize for the confusion on my part. When I mentioned the T-56 with Shift relocation kit. I bought my T-56 from American Powertrain, and while I was at it I bought one of their White Lightning shifters that rotated it from the original position. Not technicaly a relocation kit.
Michael

[460.465USMC]

Hey. I took delivery of my coupe in early December. Really enjoying the process. I’ve been trying to find a RT turn signal. Where did you get yours?

Hi Randy312. There is a vendor who announced on the forum he is continuing Russ' turn signal: www.mountain-metalworks.com, tj@mountain-metalworks.com. His handle on the forum is "mountain-metalworks".

[MSumners]

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=196843&d=1710378194

Frame and panels/parts back from powder coat, turned out great and not a bad price at all. Very happy with it all. Excited to get rolling soon on actual assembly

[MSumners]

Making some progress since getting the frame back, nothing groundbreaking. Able to get the IFS, IRS and wilwoods installed and starting on the fuel lines.
One thing I noticed compared to the roadster build was that the center section was a REALLY tight fit. like really tight, when I finally got it in place it was completely supported on its own just wedged between the mounts. Not sure how it would ever come out if it had to. Other than that only a couple minor delays looking for hardware. Seems the inventory list is a bit more difficult to negotiate now as there isn't detail to the pack listing for some of the hardware. I did have some nuts labeled 'mechanical locknuts' that are supposed to be used for the front upper A arm mounting but were not locknuts at all and the specified grade 8 1/2 20 bolts were too short. Somewhat to my surprise Ace had the exact grade 8 flanged bolt a 1/2 inch longer and the flanged grade 8 mech locknuts. Otherwise all quite a smooth install. Seems much less manipulation of the upper and lower A arm mounting brackets than I recall doing with the roadster, everything slid in to place quite well.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=196973&d=1710719694

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[MSumners]

Nothing too groundbreaking starting laying out the fuel system and making the flex and hard lines.

Picking up a new truck at the Ford dealer and got a look at the new gen 4 coyote. Might have to see if that cover would fit the gen 3

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=197902&d=1712408147

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=197903&d=1712408147

[MSumners]

Is this regulator too low for othe gen 3 coyote, wondering if there may be interference?

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=197922&d=1712494995

[MSumners]

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=197923&d=1712498448

[edwardb]

Is this regulator too low for othe gen 3 coyote, wondering if there may be interference?

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=197922&d=1712494995

Looking at mine just now, yes I should clear. By an inch or so. It may/may not clear when you tip the engine in though. Something to watch for. Curious why you have it that low. FWIW, I have mine in the same spot, but the adjuster on the regulator is roughly the same height as the footbox top. Makes things easy to get to and the fuel line over to the engine is a relatively straight.

[MSumners]

Thanks for looking , I’ll be raising it up. Just about to terminate the flex lines on that end and higher position will actually make that easier too!
Thanks again


Looking at mine just now, yes I should clear. By an inch or so. It may/may not clear when you tip the engine in though. Something to watch for. Curious why you have it that low. FWIW, I have mine in the same spot, but the adjuster on the regulator is roughly the same height as the footbox top. Makes things easy to get to and the fuel line over to the engine is a relatively straight.

[MSumners]

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=197952&d=1712528661

[MSumners]

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=197955&d=1712576797

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=197956&d=1712576797

[MSumners]

No work for a bit on the coupe as I've been finishing up a different project and thought I'd post a before and nearly completed after picture. When I was just old enough to be interested in cars this was actually one of my dream cars. Just always loved it. Recent H1 Alphas go for crazy money so decided to take a different approach. This one started as a military humvee, late in the humvee era a lot of the earlier versions underwent a revision with new drivetrains and some updates. Previously knew more about this whole process but can't recall all of it currently. This was one of the updated old versions. Was able to pick it up with minimal miles on the drivetrain. It's a 6.5 diesel non turbo. Started life as a 3 speed as delivered.

My updates included: New 4l80 4 speed transmission with park and overdrive, turned it from a 2 door to 4 door. It has full convertible doors, uppers with windows, black soft top. New shoes. Checked the usual things that go with a hummer especially the spindle nuts.
This was my first attempt at a "real" paint job. I created a makeshift paint booth in the barn and completely stripped everything down, sanded for approximately 128 years, then 2 coats of primer, 3 base coat and 2-3 clearcoat. Its no where near the Ken Pike quality of my roadster but from 20 feet looks good enough and scratches won't bother me, which was the goal. The interior and bed I did in raptor POL black and turned out great, that stuff really is awesome. Other things included new bucket seats and belts, new soft front and rear leveling springs, all new gauges ( which actually all worked on the first wiring!), all new seals and rubber everywhere, sound insulation, all new LED all around. Only things to finish are bolting in the seats / sliders and chasing down a taill-light I must have mis wired. Overall really happy with how everything turned out.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=200605&d=1718068106

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=200606&d=1718068106

[JimStone]

Wow that looks awesome!

My grandparents lived across the street from the AM General plant in Mishawaka, IN where those were made. Spent a good chunk of my childhood at that house (free childcare) playing in the yard. I could see the new ones coming off the line and being test driven on the test track. H1's but endless Humvees. Always wanted one

[MSumners]

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=200985&d=1719367569

[MSumners]

Other projects done! Time to get back after the coupe. Spending some time re-acquainting with the next steps and planning. Excited to get back to it.

[JimStone]

More important projects than a second toy car?! Blasphemy

[MSumners]

More important projects than a second toy car?! Blasphemy

Valid point

[PNWTim]

Agreed

[MSumners]

Brake line routing question. Future problem with interference or no problem? Accidentally went in back of the square bar.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=206399&d=1731542211

[Kbl7td]

That’s where i went, you’ll just have to notch the panel that fits up there.

[JimStone]

I did the same. If you go in front of the square frame then you're into the engine bay. Plus, I blindly follow Paul and that's where he ran everything through (brake line, HTB line, electrical)

[MSumners]

I could make a trash-metal tyrannosaurus from the brake line error pieces I’m collecting.

[MSumners]

I'm at the point in the instructions where it's time for drivetrain install. I did finish the brakes beforehand just because I thought it would be easier.
Any other things recommended to do out of order and get done before drivetrain install, coyote specifically?

[MSumners]

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=206592&d=1732148818

Coyote ready to go home

[MSumners]

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=206601&d=1732220019

Dropped the coyote in today. Went slow and no real issues.

Question for those with the 6 speed magnum and coyote. How exactly does the Tran’s mount plate fit? Even with no spacer under the poly mount there isn’t enough room, even with the trans jacked up touching the tunnel top bars. The engine mounts are squared seated.

[edwardb]

Question for those with the 6 speed magnum and coyote. How exactly does the Tran’s mount plate fit? Even with no spacer under the poly mount there isn’t enough room, even with the trans jacked up touching the tunnel top bars. The engine mounts are squared seated.

I don't remember every specific detail, but my build with the T-56 and Coyote also pushed the shifter against the underside of the transmission tunnel. I ended up with the mounting plate under the chassis tabs. As I recall, had to trim the mounting plate just slightly to fit there. Worked OK from there.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=80952&d=1518656864

[MSumners]

Perfect, thanks! Agreed the plate will have to be trimmed some but not bad to fit from underneath. Wanted to make sure I wasn’t missing something!



I don't remember every specific detail, but my build with the T-56 and Coyote also pushed the shifter against the underside of the transmission tunnel. I ended up with the mounting plate under the chassis tabs. As I recall, had to trim the mounting plate just slightly to fit there. Worked OK from there.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=80952&d=1518656864

[MSumners]

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=206943&d=1732909847

Holiday baking

[MSumners]

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=206996&d=1733082029

The engine I ordered came with a power steering pump but appears non adjustable, as far as I can tell. I think I would need to add a heidts valve?
I also actually have the KRC system as I planned poorly and ordered it from factory five. Is it easy to switch out? I really like the adjustable valve on the roadster and already know how I would set it up so leaning that way. Any thoughts appreciated

[edwardb]

I am a fan of the KRC setup for the Coyote. I've used it twice and they've been flawless. May not make a difference in a regular street driven build. But I'm convinced their in-house produced pumps are superior to the usual OE pump. The built-in reservoir makes plumbing easy. Plus with the changeable spool valves, you can adjust the boost pretty easily. Only disadvantage would be not able to change it on the fly like with a Heidts valve, e.g. one setting for the street and one for the track or auto-x. This is a picture of the KRC setup on my Coupe build including with an A/C compressor. I'm not positive the pulleys and serpentine setup are exactly what you already have. Could be more than just changing the A/C pump.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=94184&d=1537923085

[MSumners]

Thanks! I think for now I’ll stick with the current setup and add the heidts valve. I think if I try to figure out the switch it may (definitely) lead to misordered parts and replacing more than I’d like. A bit more reading to do though.



I am a fan of the KRC setup for the Coyote. I've used it twice and they've been flawless. May not make a difference in a regular street driven build. But I'm convinced their in-house produced pumps are superior to the usual OE pump. The built-in reservoir makes plumbing easy. Plus with the changeable spool valves, you can adjust the boost pretty easily. Only disadvantage would be not able to change it on the fly like with a Heidts valve, e.g. one setting for the street and one for the track or auto-x. This is a picture of the KRC setup on my Coupe build including with an A/C compressor. I'm not positive the pulleys and serpentine setup are exactly what you already have. Could be more than just changing the A/C pump.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=94184&d=1537923085

[MSumners]

Spent half the day thinking I was a crazy person, or maybe just crazier. I went to mount the coyote headers and the bolts wouldn’t easily start by hand. Did some reading, verified the right spec and pitch , checked the box. Then finally checked the actual bolt and realized the stage 8 box is mis-labeled. Calls out fine pitch 1.25 but is actually course 1.5.
Hopefully stage 8 or FFR will exchange, I’m confident they will if history is any guide.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=207174&d=1733444841

[PNWTim]

Always nice to gaslight yourself with mislabeled parts! At least you figured it out before they went sailing out the garage door.

[MSumners]

Interesting thread issues lately.
This looks like 10-32 but isn’t. Nor an m5. Actually can’t get anything on my thread checker to start.
Anyone recall or know what thread this is supposed to be.
Otherwise no problem I’ll just drill and re-tap, just found it odd.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=207380&d=1733855755

[Jim1855]

#12 maybe? I have an aluminum part that uses #12s. Looking at these I thought they were #10s. Quite a bit smaller than 1/4".

The diameter of the ID will be about .180".

https://www.mcmaster.com/91864A052/

Jim

[PNWTim]

I just unwrapped my MAF tube while doing inventory. I tried 8-32 which did not fit so they have to be metric but I didn't have any metric screws small enough to test. It's definitely not a #10.

[MSumners]

Good call I’ll try the 12. I think that’s not on the thread checker I have. Already had a McMaster order pended so added in

[MSumners]

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=207579&d=1734319231

This seems like a really reasonable place to talk myself into buying a welder.

[PNWTim]

What could go wrong?

[MSumners]

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=208128&d=1735427943

Question about the pinion angle. This is for the Gen3 coupe, coyote with a tremec 6 speed magnum and not a track car. This is as good as I can seem to get the pinion angle.
I did some reading and came across a post previously Naz was discussing this topic ( is he still around, I learned so much from his posts..). He was discussing how the phase of the angles is essentially the most important and I believe the center section and the driveshaft should be nearly parallel to keep the u joints in phase and what you really don't want is both pointing up or both point down. Please correct me as needed.
What do you all think about the angles above. This is with the trans slightly spaced upward from the mount to get it near parallel to the center section. I think to improve the other two angles the only options would be to lower the engine ( not sure how that would happen) or change the center section angle ( not sure how that would happen either).
Any input is appreciated.

[burchfieldb]

What angles are your transmission, drive shaft, and pinion at? You can use one of these to get it fairly accurate measurement.

208178

Originally my pinion was pointed down towards the ground at 0.5 degs and made it impossible for me to get the correct angles since it caused my air cleaner to go above the hood.

[PNWTim]

I am assuming that's the Tremec app? If I recall, if you are in the green, you are essentially good to go. In a perfect world the lines drawn through the crank to tail shaft and the pinion centerline would be parallel (one essentially going downhill and one uphill).

I think you are correct in the sense that both down or both up is not ideal but in this case I am assuming you would need to raise the transmission about 1 full degree to achieve the angle differential you are looking for. Pretty sure the Tremec app is fairly fool proof so not sure it's worth going down the rabbit hole?

[edwardb]

My Gen 3 Coupe is exactly the same setup as yours. Gen 3 Coyote with kit supplied Energy Suspension mounts, T-56 trans, and IRS. Per my build notes: "With IRS, recommended that engine is 1 - 2 degrees down from fixed diff. Confirmed after mockup is OK within this range. No shim required for T-56 and Coupe mounting plate. However, plate mounted on bottom (vs. top as instructions show) in order for shifter to not be against transmission tunnel cover. Pinion angle OK installed that way."

8,000+ miles later and the driveline is smooth as silk. Personally, I've never been a fan of the Tremec app or their like. Don't overthink it. Measure the engine at the harmonic balancer, measure the diff, and do the math. You're looking for the difference between the two. The iPhone level app works OK. I have a small digital level that works better. I've read all the posts and watched the videos about harmonic balances, but with all due respect, all of my builds have been smooth after doing nothing more than adjusting as necessary to get the pinion angle in range. Which didn't require much on the Coupe.

[MSumners]

Thanks for the reassurance on the driveline angle. I have the operating angle at 1 degree and calling it good, all bolted back up. I did have to open up the mounting holes on the trans support plate to 0.75" to be able to shift the plate enough to the passenger side for the driveline to be straight.
I went to install the e brake cables and surprised how long they are. I don't recall having to zip tie them out of the way on the roadster but definitely will require some attachment points here. I sent some images and verified with FFR they are the correct cables. Just seems odd there wouldn't be an option that was a bit shorter.
Otherwise finished up the mock up steering shaft install. before final I'm going to order the same compression u joint connection for the steering rack attachment I used on the roadster as it seemed to help take the minimal residual slop out of the system. I did have quite a bit of interference between the steering shaft and the coyote pedal so trimmed it back as much as reasonable. Also had to re-drill the higher mounting point on the pedal attachment plate with it pushed all the way against the inner footbox to try to get some clearance for the apps harness connection. Not sure yet if it will clear and have to test fit it.
Other recent progress has been re-bleeding the brakes finishing and bleeding the clutch and setting pedal heights, pressure testing the brake connections, testing the 0.75 then switching to a 0.81 master cylinder for the clutch.
I'm still staring at welders nightly looking at the Miller multimatic 220 before I finish the driveshaft safety loop. Someone talk me into it.

I ended up drilling and tapping the connection for the air intake sensor an M6. why an m6 you ask? because I grabbed the wrong flipping drill bit!

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=208251&d=1735614939

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=208253&d=1735615879

[PNWTim]

I am curious what compression joint you are going to be using? You are making good progress here and very helpful for a new guy like me so thank you in advance.

Also, interesting you brought up that MAF boss. I have an entire drawer of essentially throw away metric and SAE screws that have come with bits and pieces over the years. I tried several of them and couldn't get anything to thread into mine, so go figure. It's almost like the threads are galled or something. Maybe someone else will ring in with a definitive?

[MSumners]

I think it is a unisteer 8050880 but let me verify, I need to check the size and spline count on the rack, I know I ordered one initially and had to return it previously.

[MSumners]

I am curious what compression joint you are going to be using? You are making good progress here and very helpful for a new guy like me so thank you in advance.

Also, interesting you brought up that MAF boss. I have an entire drawer of essentially throw away metric and SAE screws that have come with bits and pieces over the years. I tried several of them and couldn't get anything to thread into mine, so go figure. It's almost like the threads are galled or something. Maybe someone else will ring in with a definitive?

I was looking back at my images here. If you haven't drilled it out yet check to see if it is left threaded somehow? Almost looks like it from my images but maybe I'm crazy.

I ordered that unisteer I'll update when I verify it's the correct one again.

[PNWTim]

I was looking back at my images here. If you haven't drilled it out yet check to see if it is left threaded somehow? Almost looks like it from my images but maybe I'm crazy.

I ordered that unisteer I'll update when I verify it's the correct one again.

No, I haven't drilled it out but I can't imagine any good reason the threads would be reversed but I suppose anything is possible. I'll check it out.

[MSumners]

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=208478&d=1735881163

Mounted the computer behind the engine and working on lengthening the required connections to reach.

Also found the coyote pedal cannot stay in its current place as the connector won’t clear the steering shaft.

[PNWTim]

That looks great. I really like the black on charcoal gray rivet treatment. And the electrical surgery cart is all business. If it were mine I would have random lengths of heat shrink scattered everywhere and three pairs of reading glasses.

Question on the pedal placement - I don't recall but did you place it higher to gain space or is there something else going on? I haven't seen this kind of interference with the connector.

If you get a chance, please post a couple of photos of your ECM placement. I know there are a handful of options and this is one I am considering. Thanks in advance.

[MSumners]

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=208652&d=1736139824

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=208653&d=1736139824


Here are a couple of the computer mounting.

I did verify the unisteer part number above is correct and fitted it tonight after grinding a tiny bit off the 3/4 DD so the compression bolt can clear. I then also verified that the head of the bolt won’t clear my drivers side brake line and am going to order a low profile head version to get it to clear.

The pedal placement I used the pattern simply in the footbox that corresponds to the coyote pedal. In this placement the steering shaft interferes with the apps connection, even with the top mount re-drilled pushed all the way to the inner footbox wall. I’ll have to re-drill both mounting points lower. I also need to review some build threads as I find it really odd I don’t recall coming across this before.

[PNWTim]

"The pedal placement I used the pattern simply in the footbox that corresponds to the coyote pedal. In this placement the steering shaft interferes with the apps connection, even with the top mount re-drilled pushed all the way to the inner footbox wall. I’ll have to re-drill both mounting points lower. I also need to review some build threads as I find it really odd I don’t recall coming across this before."

I just watched Randy B's YouTube update video (posted in the forum) and at about 19:23 into the video he talks about this clearance conflict and what he did to correct. Again, like you, I wasn't aware there was a conflict but his solution seems pretty good.

[MSumners]

Making some progress. Finished up lengthening the necessary coyote connectors and mounted the computer behind the engine. Finished the driveshaft safety loop. I ended up through-bolting it with a couple 5/16 bolts on each side. Put some Kilmat in the driver footbox and was able to finalize and test fit the pedal positions with the seat temporarily in place. I ended up re-drilling the mounting points for the coyote pedal and using spacers ground to an angle off the existing pedal mount to get the ideal position and throw. But now final and the APPS connection will clear without issue. Re-bled the clutch and tested. Planned and running the positive battery cables and master cutoff switch. For now just a dead end cable at the cockpit until I finalize position. Fit the E brake handle, just like the roadster I through-bolted it with some spacers on the tunnel. Fit, drilled out and cut the thicker trans tunnel cover I made for the shifter and the lokar E brake handle. Finished up the E brake cables, I had to trim a small bit off the rear cable ends because they wouldnt clear the wilwood adaptor. Planned and and lengthened the wires for both the reverse light switch from the trans as well as the reverse lockout switch. I decided I'm going to wire this to a momentary switch just under the left dash. Otherwise doing some cable routing cleanup, starting to put some of the cockpit panels in place but as few as possible. About time to dig into the wiring and final dash layout plans.


https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=208974&d=1736709924

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=208975&d=1736709924

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=208976&d=1736709924

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=208977&d=1736709924

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=208981&d=1736711512

[460.465USMC]

Thanks for the tip on the Coyote pedal placement. Kind of like what you did with the Wilwood pedal pad on that pedal, I'm going to try to adapt the Russ Thompson pedal pad (sourced from Breeze). Do you have any tips or pictures on how you attached the pedal pad?

[MSumners]

The pedal pad I just attached with 4 stainless screws after trimming the lever back a bit more.

[MSumners]

Couldnt remember if I posted this before. Something Ive been using during wiring I found on the humvee sites. Great and actually reasonably cheap shrink sleeve printer made by Dymo, takes the standard labels but you can buy shrink sleeve cartridges. Makes great quick labeled yellow shrink sleeve and now I dont have to label all my wires with yellow tape!
Word of caution. the 1/4 sleeve is really 1/8 as it relates to other shrink sleeve companies standards.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=208978&d=1736710002

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=208979&d=1736710002

[PNWTim]

Couldnt remember if I posted this before. Something Ive been using during wiring I found on the humvee sites. Great and actually reasonably cheap shrink sleeve printer made by Dymo, takes the standard labels but you can buy shrink sleeve cartridges. Makes great quick labeled yellow shrink sleeve and now I dont have to label all my wires with yellow tape!
Word of caution. the 1/4 sleeve is really 1/8 as it relates to other shrink sleeve companies standards.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=208978&d=1736710002

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=208979&d=1736710002

So this is funny. I have that exact label printer which I print wire labels on then use clear heatshrink over it. I didn't even know you could buy yellow heat shrink it will print directly to :p.

[MSumners]

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=211318&d=1741570224

Making some small progress. After some deliberation decided to switch out the AC compressor and the power steering pump to the KRC unit.

Anyone have any tricks to get this belt on. Tried the recommendation in the instructions by wrapping it around the back of the pulley and using the zip tie but there isnt enough room for it to fit back there.

[edwardb]

Anyone have any tricks to get this belt on. Tried the recommendation in the instructions by wrapping it around the back of the pulley and using the zip tie but there isn't enough room for it to fit back there.

Had mine off and on a couple times during my Coupe build. I used the method they show in the instructions and it worked for me. From your picture, you need to have the belt seated on the compressor pulley. Not in front as pictured. The belt twists flat to go behind the crankshaft pulley. Maybe this video helps? https://www.tiktok.com/@flyingwrenchesauto/video/7157406871056403754?lang=en

[MSumners]

Thanks ! I’ll try that again, I tried for awhile to get the belt flat behind the crankshaft pulley but didn’t seem to have enough room, I’m sure I can negotiate it back there with enough effort


Had mine off and on a couple times during my Coupe build. I used the method they show in the instructions and it worked for me. From your picture, you need to have the belt seated on the compressor pulley. Not in front as pictured. The belt twists flat to go behind the crankshaft pulley. Maybe this video helps? https://www.tiktok.com/@flyingwrenchesauto/video/7157406871056403754?lang=en

[MSumners]

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=211359&d=1741665842
Was able to negotiate the AC belt on, realized I had to start the belt from the right side then floss it up and around as there just wasnt enough room on the left side of the pulley. Once I did that it was quite straightforward.
Was able to get the belts on but then noticed the KRC pump seemed a bit off center, meaning the angle of the wheel wasnt square to the pulley. Gave me fits for a bit until I took it off and noticed there is a set screw on the KRC mounting plate that wasn't allowing the pump to sit flush, for what its purpose I'm not really sure. Certainly something I'm not currently realizing. With the set screw all the way flush to the face everything sits more square.
For the love of pete if you are installing this KRC system put the belt on before you mount the pump. I guarantee this saves a great deal of hassle. something i wish I realized. The picture above is round 2 of fitting the pump, before I realized it was canted ever so slightly and had it off again and on again a couple times.

[MSumners]

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=211342&d=1741625496

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=211343&d=1741625496

[PNWTim]

I was just looking at your latest post and had a quick suggestion. You may want to consider flipping the bolts over on your steering column bearing so they run in from the top. In the event one or both nuts come off, the bolts will stay in rather than completely fall out. It won't prevent the column from dropping down but it would prevent side to side movement.

[MSumners]

I was just looking at your latest post and had a quick suggestion. You may want to consider flipping the bolts over on your steering column bearing so they run in from the top. In the event one or both nuts come off, the bolts will stay in rather than completely fall out. It won't prevent the column from dropping down but it would prevent side to side movement.

Will do, actually need longer ones too for the spacing, they are just finger tight temporary right now

[MSumners]

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=211742&d=1742664068

[MSumners]

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=211766&d=1742742335

Should this heater fitting “snap” into place and be snug. Pushed it on fairly firmly but still has some in and out movement and didn’t really click in.


https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=211767&d=1742744782

Anyone have a measurement on how far the mounting bolt for the washer motor is from the firewall? Trying to avoid interference.

[edwardb]

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=211766&d=1742742335

Should this heater fitting “snap” into place and be snug. Pushed it on fairly firmly but still has some in and out movement and didn’t really click in.

Anyone have a measurement on how far the mounting bolt for the washer motor is from the firewall? Trying to avoid interference.

Yes, that heater connector kind of clicks into place. It moves up and down slightly I guess once locked on. If you're using the connectors from FF, and nothing has changed over the past few years, they supply a knock-off connector that several of us had issues with. Didn't lock on well, leaked, etc. Genuine Gates 28504 Heater Hose Connectors solved for me and others. Can't help with the wiper. I've been using the Specialty Power Windows wipers which are different.

[MSumners]

Thanks again!
Making some progress and got the heater connections on. One wanted to be a bit stubborn but did snap into place with some coercion.

I question about the gates clamps. I took a picture from Paul’s coupe build for example. Do they have to overlap the connection or you just put them on the hose and they shrink down enough to be secure?

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=211861&d=1742953694

[MSumners]

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=211862&d=1742962177

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=211863&d=1742962177

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=211864&d=1742962177


Moved into the ‘just get the go cart done’ stage. Wiring started, cooling system mostly done, AC and heat mostly done.
Had to trim the condenser to get it to fit by chopping the side mounting rail off, still snug but fits.
Coyote is mostly wired but have to add in the chassis harness now. Not too long to go cart likely, about time to order some wheels.

[edwardb]

I question about the gates clamps. I took a picture from Paul’s coupe build for example. Do they have to overlap the connection or you just put them on the hose and they shrink down enough to be secure?

They function just like the metal clamps. Put them in the same position. There's no external sealing, i.e. shrink sleeving or whatever. They are very robust. I had a connection on my truck build that wouldn't seal with traditional clamps no matter what I did. The Gates clamp did the trick. Only obvious downside is the one-time use.

[MSumners]

Somehow missed this at first but found this answer to my fan wiring questions in one of Paul’s posts from a couple years back.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=211921&d=1743191520

[MSumners]

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=212081&d=1743636060

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=212082&d=1743636060

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=212083&d=1743636060

Still plugging away, getting close to first start.
One thing I have to do is order wheels and that may take a bit. I've been reading the wheel thread Logan started trying to figure out which width and offset 18" wheels I should order to avoid a spacer in the rear and maybe think I have it down but spending 4k on wheels I'd rather be more certain. Anyone has 18" wheels on the coupe that are flush to the wheelwells and no spacer curious what offsets and tires you are running. Looking at forgestar M14's or F14. Would love to do 19's but seems you cant get the car too low with some rubbing, at least from reading so far. Of course notching the frame could still be possible if it had to be.

One of the last pieces is the lower coyote radiator connection. I have the boig tube but really can't figure out how is possibly connects yet. Probably just need to try again. I did look at the pictures on their website but didnt really show it too well.
Otherwise once I get some wheels on and the ignition wired it is basically ready to fill with fluid, roll outside and try to fire up.

Should the AC be charged before first start or it doesnt matter. Obviously I plan on testing it for leaks before buttoning the footbox up.

Otherwise only other thing I'm considering is a toggle switch system for the ignition and starter. Came across the diagram in the ford performance instructions and I love the simplicity and kind of goes with my goal for this build. Otherwise I have the guarddog system so kind of opposite ends of the spectrum I guess.

Some of the wiring I have installed but not final currently. I didn't receive any ford performance instructions or papers with my motor / trans from forte and forgot that maybe I should have had them. The labels on the wiring for the control pack are mostly different that what is shown in the factory five instructions, so I'm wiring everything, making sure everything works as its supposed to before I trim any possibly un-used wiring legs.

If anyone has convenient images of their Gen 3 with coyote lower radiator boig tube routing it may save me some serious hassle.
Thanks again to everyone for all the help.

[burchfieldb]

Looking good!

[PNWTim]

You're making great progress. There are a couple guys running 19's with the correct offsets to not rub or require spacers. One of them has a build thread on here but I can't recall his name/avatar but he is listed in Logan's spreadsheet. I too am planning on running 19's but haven't decided on the wheel which is a pretty big decision (at least to me).

You don't need to charge the A/C for first start. If you haven't done it already you can download the Control Pack instructions from the Ford Performance website.

[burchfieldb]

I had asked Patrick "Snowman" about his. This may be of some help to provide insights.

212101

[PNWTim]

I had asked Patrick "Snowman" about his. This may be of some help to provide insights.

212101

Thanks Brent. He is the member I was referring to. I never heard he had any clearance issues but good to know. If I understand what he is saying, could you add an additional 25MM of offset to 11" wheels to achieve the same look without any clearance issues?

[MSumners]

I had asked Patrick "Snowman" about his. This may be of some help to provide insights.

212101

Thanks! That helps

[MSumners]

This spray version of the popular interior adhesive is available now, or maybe it always was before and I just couldnt find it. About to start some dash work and was looking for another can of the weldwood and came across this and thought I would give it a try. Anyone have experience with the can version?

In other news, Wheels ordered ! 4-6 weeks they say for the custom build F14 forgestars. Probably I'll wait for first start until I can put them on and actually roll the chassis out of the barn, still plenty to keep me busy in the meantime.

As luck would have it, was about to fashion a blank dash piece for the gauges but the newer offering company Snakebite just listed them for sale so jumped on that. Otherwise continuing to work through some wiring.
Deciding if I'm actually going to wire/use a oil temp gauge or not, i think probably irrelevent for 99.9% of my driving.

Still deciding on how I want the ignition wired. I really like the idea of only toggle switches if possible but certainly not trying to make it more complicated. Still looking at the wiring diagrams and the Ford performance diagram on how exactly it would go.

Also have the gates shrink hose clamps on order for the rad hoses. Once those arrive can cinch that system up.




https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=212461&d=1744226977

[Kbl7td]

I ordered the gallon and brushed. It’s just easier imo.

[MSumners]

Running out of things before first start. Or at least the short list is getting shorter. Went through the dash harness and organized it a bit. I'm using aftermarket speedhut gauges and added their Zero Dimmer click button dimmer into the gauge feed as instructed so I can dim all the gauges together. It also lets you set daytime and nightime settings. Now just need to test everything and then clean up the wiring. Still a lot of other wiring to clean up after first start and testing as well.

Sure the wires could be shorter but then I couldn't disconnect the dash and put it on my lap.


https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=212644&d=1744659966

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=212645&d=1744660066

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=212643&d=1744659966

[MSumners]

Anyone happen to know the paint codes for this motor trend red coupe??

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=212719&d=1744835618

[460.465USMC]

Running out of things before first start. Or at least the short list is getting shorter. Went through the dash harness and organized it a bit. I'm using aftermarket speedhut gauges and added their Zero Dimmer click button dimmer into the gauge feed as instructed so I can dim all the gauges together. It also lets you set daytime and nightime settings. Now just need to test everything and then clean up the wiring. Still a lot of other wiring to clean up after first start and testing as well.

Sure the wires could be shorter but then I couldn't disconnect the dash and put it on my lap.

You're almost there...looking forward to seeing your first start video. Congrats.

Thanks for the tip on the Speed Hut solution for gauge dimming.

[MSumners]

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=213047&d=1745632116

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=213048&d=1745632116

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=213049&d=1745632116

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=213050&d=1745632116

Plugging away on first start prep, gauges are all connected and working on the temp hookups for the switches.

[PNWTim]

You are chugging right along. Just read through the last several posts and had one question and one response to a question you asked.

1. I can't recall why you decided to build another console piece but I am curious if you happened to test fit the original from F5 once you had your shifter plate switched around. Specifically, did it fit?

2. I know Paul answered your question about the Gates Powergrip clamps but I wanted to add one other piece. I like to hang one edge of the clamp over the raw end of the hose so that when it shrinks it covers it up. Makes a nice clean transition. Probably not necessary, just something I found I liked. I attached a picture where you can see this in the upper and lower hoses.

Looking forward to seeing you put the new shoes on and firing it up.

213067

[MSumners]

I just wanted a thicker trans tunnel cover. I switched out the one in the roadster to a 0.9 and like how solid it feels so decided to do the same. Next time I’m out I’ll check as I think I still have the original panel still.


Wheels are shipped and en route so hopefully installing and try first start in the next week or so.


You are chugging right along. Just read through the last several posts and had one question and one response to a question you asked.

1. I can't recall why you decided to build another console piece but I am curious if you happened to test fit the original from F5 once you had your shifter plate switched around. Specifically, did it fit?

2. I know Paul answered your question about the Gates Powergrip clamps but I wanted to add one other piece. I like to hang one edge of the clamp over the raw end of the hose so that when it shrinks it covers it up. Makes a nice clean transition. Probably not necessary, just something I found I liked. I attached a picture where you can see this in the upper and lower hoses.

Looking forward to seeing you put the new shoes on and firing it up.

213067

[MSumners]

I still have to check on the trans tunnel cover fit as above, completely forgot about it.
Working through last of the list before first start.
I ended up replacing the inline radiator fill cap assembly with one that has about 3’ more height to it.
Got the fluids in , driver seat brackets, seat and belt bolted in.
Wheels arrive Monday so probably later in the week I’ll see if it’ll fire up.
Put the FFR pipes on temporarily for first start. I have the Gasn pipes but realized when I opened them they may have accidentally sent a set for a superformance. Emailed and got a rather quick response, tomorrow I’ll send them pictures to see if the pipes are correct.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=213349&d=1746330969

[MSumners]

Shes on the ground! Nothing to do but get some fuel and first start / go-kart.
Tested the gauges and everything at least lights up and the zero dimmer works. Was able to program the fuel gauge and the Tach so will verify they are working once it actually starts.
The digital guard dog system, to this point, works exactly as it should. I have it set up to arm with the button once in the car, single push for ACC then with the brake depressed it starts flashing. I verified if engages the starter briefly so at least i know that works. The only gauge that may be off is the water temp, it currently reads at 230 with power on, obviously with the engine off. I'm not sure if that will self correct when the engine is actually running or I'll have to troubleshoot it.
I currently have the factory five pipes on as I wanted to do a some dB comparison from a fixed point on the kirkey seat to the gas'n touring pipes.
The F14's look great and looking forward to checking the fit once the body goes on for the first time. Next post hopefully is a running video and go kart.
Time to review the pre start checklist.


https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=213576&d=1746761736

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=213577&d=1746761736

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=213578&d=1746761736

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=213579&d=1746761736

[Kbl7td]

The only thing I didn’t like about the dawg or similar systems is if you do happen to kill the car, the brake always has to be depressed to restart. This was especially annoying during tuning. After that I vowed to only have separate IGN ACC Start.

Also super jealous of how clean it is, my car looks like it’s been through a middle eastern dust storm.

[PNWTim]

Looking really nice. I like the tires, thinking summer only? First start sounds like it's right around the corner.

[JimStone]

Looks great

It looks like you have your radiator tunnel all riveted. Are you not going to use the top brow piece (that separates the tunnel from the engine compartment)?

There was the discussion about reducing heat in the engine bay. I imagine not using that panel would improve airflow. I haven't had my hood on in a year, so I don't know how much of a gap that creates

[MSumners]

I planned to fit the top piece of the radiator tunnel once the hood is in place.

Yep mostly just summer driving , might be able to push the season a bit further than the roadster but really with the heated seats into the upper 40’s isn’t even bad. Below that will be stored.


Looks great

It looks like you have your radiator tunnel all riveted. Are you not going to use the top brow piece (that separates the tunnel from the engine compartment)?

There was the discussion about reducing heat in the engine bay. I imagine not using that panel would improve airflow. I haven't had my hood on in a year, so I don't know how much of a gap that creates

[MSumners]

Hadn’t thought of that I’ve never really been through the tuning process before.


The only thing I didn’t like about the dawg or similar systems is if you do happen to kill the car, the brake always has to be depressed to restart. This was especially annoying during tuning. After that I vowed to only have separate IGN ACC Start.

Also super jealous of how clean it is, my car looks like it’s been through a middle eastern dust storm.

[MSumners]

With the gen 3 coyote , on Accessory should the fuel pump cycle at all? Not hearing anything when testing and verified the green fuel pump wire is spliced in correctly.

[lewma]

Not sure if the pump counts as an accessory ? Does your ignition key click one more time to prepare to start ?

[burchfieldb]

That gray looks really sharp! I would be curious if removing the upper radiator brow reduces engine bay heat.

[edwardb]

With the gen 3 coyote , on Accessory should the fuel pump cycle at all? Not hearing anything when testing and verified the green fuel pump wire is spliced in correctly.

No and not likely. The RF fuel pump circuit is on the IGN portion. So the fuel pump relay won't be energized until you're in the ignition sequence. Assuming you have the RF fuel pump relay tapped in as part of the Coyote fuel pump circuit, which is normal. On my Gen 3 Coyote Coupe with the DGD (just started and ran earlier, beautiful day out) I don't have to do anything other than unlock via the key fob and the red light on the start button comes on. Then push the brake pedal and clutch down and it starts blinking. Push to start. I don't use ACC. At least not intentionally. On the fuel pump with the Gen 3, when energized it runs very briefly. Easy to miss. The pump only runs continuously during the start sequence and when the engine is running. For the first start, you may get a somewhat long cranking time before it goes. Many have reported this. Some will hot wire the pump in advance of the first start to get the lines and fuel rails filled to reduce initial cranking. I haven't done it, but something to consider if you feel like it's cranking too long.

[lewma]

No and not likely. The RF fuel pump circuit is on the IGN portion. So the fuel pump relay won't be energized until you're in the ignition sequence. Assuming you have the RF fuel pump relay tapped in as part of the Coyote fuel pump circuit, which is normal. On my Gen 3 Coyote Coupe with the DGD (just started and ran earlier, beautiful day out) I don't have to do anything other than unlock via the key fob and the red light on the start button comes on. Then push the brake pedal and clutch down and it starts blinking. Push to start. I don't use ACC. At least not intentionally. On the fuel pump with the Gen 3, when energized it runs very briefly. Easy to miss. The pump only runs continuously during the start sequence and when the engine is running. For the first start, you may get a somewhat long cranking time before it goes. Many have reported this. Some will hot wire the pump in advance of the first start to get the lines and fuel rails filled to reduce initial cranking. I haven't done it, but something to consider if you feel like it's cranking too long.

Paul, i have the same DGD. I need to push the button 2x before it's ready to push/hold to start. Did you get around the 2x putton press ( cycles through accessories )

mark

[edwardb]

Paul, i have the same DGD. I need to push the button 2x before it's ready to push/hold to start. Did you get around the 2x putton press ( cycles through accessories )

mark

I didn't do anything special. That's just how it works for me. Now in the 5th season, so kind of used to it. :o One variable that may/may not be in play -- I have my keyfobs in manual mode. I have to push the button of the fob to disarm the system. I found the automatic (e.g. proximity) method wasn't discriminating enough. The system would recognize the keyfob and disarm even when it was in the house or when at car shows.

[MSumners]

Perfect. Thanks everyone. Start time tomorrow

[MSumners]

Mine is 2x button pressed to get to the flashing light “start ready” as well. I think it had to do with the specific options on the DGD ordered.


Paul, i have the same DGD. I need to push the button 2x before it's ready to push/hold to start. Did you get around the 2x putton press ( cycles through accessories )

mark

[MSumners]

For those that have used Lund for the tune, have you been happy with it ? And is this what you ordered?

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=213631&d=1746879832

[460.465USMC]

Initially, my Gen 3 fuel pump did not cycle unless the ignition was in the Run position (I also had a DGD ignition). But, that was only AFTER first start. I was thrown off by this, because I couldn't hear the fuel pump cycle. Motor cranked over fine, and if I applied power directly to the fuel pump circuit in the RF fuse panel, the fuel pump would run. Something about the logic in the Coyote PCM doesn't INITIALLY or reliably trigger the fuel pump in the Run position. That was a common Gen 3 experience with my vintage, circa late 2021. Many folks on the forum experienced the same. My solution? I cranked the motor many times, short bursts each time. Once it started the first time (I use that term loosely, because the first few starts were little more than coughs and sputters), then the fuel pump would cycle for about one second in the Run position every time.

[MSumners]

I feel like cranking over the coyote for the first time will basically be the adult version of a jack-in-the-box

[PNWTim]

I'm thinking more like roulette with about 10K on black...

[MSumners]

First start was a bust! Cranked over for awhile, sputtered once, then the battery was essentially dead.
On the trickle and will try again tomorrow.

[JimStone]

You've got this!!

[burchfieldb]

I had the same issue the first time I rolled my engine over. I had to switch to a larger/better battery.

[PNWTim]

Especially if you're battery was a bit drained down from sitting for a while. Charge it up and let er rip!

[MSumners]

First start /go cart successful. Trying to upload the video
Not too dramatic I did have a small coolant leak off one of the gates clamp connections on the upper rad hose as well as a small fuel leak at the connection to the fuel filter.
This battery I chose is indeed insufficient charged all night and the Noco charger said 100%, it at first didn’t want to turn over it was just the click-click-click , then second time turned enough to fire it up but seemed rather lame. Not going to deal with it and get stranded , already ordered a replacement.
First impression is wow this thing has a crazy amount of power, and is loud but not as loud as I thought it was going to be using the FF pipes. Before I switch them out I’m going to take some decibel readings from a fixed point then repeat with the gasn pipes. Curious to see the difference.
Couple things to sort and retest then I’ll be checking through all of the lights before moving on the the body section.

[PNWTim]

Success! I am curious if you are going to try and reshrink the clamp? I don't know if it's possible (I have never tried it) but curious if it works. I flipped back through your thread and didn't see what type of battery you used but probably wise to do something about it. Maybe before junking it double check that all your starting circuit connections are solid. It should spin that engine easily.

[MSumners]

I’ll try hitting the fitting with the heat gun again very possible part of it didn’t get fully set on the first round. Connections for the battery and grounds are all solid and cables are oversized AWG so no issue there. Same issue tonight would hesitantly turn the engine over. My golf cart needs a new battery anyway so picked up a new larger one and I’ll just switch them out, plus the new one has top and side posts so I’ll just run the accessory remote lines from those.
Still have a fuel leak on the output side of the fuel filter at the fitting attachment. Going to try a new fitting first before tearing anything else down. It is clearly beyond the answer being ‘ just tightening it a little more’.
Only other issue I’m waiting to hear back from speedhut on a defective sender unit connection which buggered up the oil pressure input. After those things more go-cart laps and retesting the rad hose leak.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=213744&d=1747179343

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=213745&d=1747179343


Success! I am curious if you are going to try and reshrink the clamp? I don't know if it's possible (I have never tried it) but curious if it works. I flipped back through your thread and didn't see what type of battery you used but probably wise to do something about it. Maybe before junking it double check that all your starting circuit connections are solid. It should spin that engine easily.

[MSumners]

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=214194&d=1747961738


De-bugging about complete. All gauges up running normal, sealed the small coolant leak by re-heating the gates grip and for now have a worm clamp on backup. New fitting on the fuel filter and recheck probably tomorrow.

[MSumners]

Have about 10 miles on the go cart , the term throttle responsive comes to mind. Was able to seal up the small radiator hose leak and no recurrence on a few cycles since then. All gauges are working, correctly after warming up but interestingly the oil pressure gauge pegs at 100psi at startup for a couple minutes then slowly comes down to normal. The fuel filter I absolutely could not get to seal up after multiple tries, even put on a new fitting I still had a small leak at the outlet of the trick-flow filter. Decided enough was enough and switched out for an aeromotive filter with a new clamp. A few test runs and no leaks. Doing some you-tubing checking out how to charge the AC system so I can check it before putting the insulation on. Have been checking dB levels with the factory five pipes and going to recheck with the Gas'n pipes when I switch them out.


https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=215369&d=1750558022

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=215370&d=1750558022

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=215371&d=1750558022

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=215372&d=1750558022

[460.465USMC]

Looking really good, sir. Glad you got your fuel leak solved. Hope I don't have that issue with my Trick Flow.

The oil pressure to 100 PSI on the Gen 3 is normal as far as I know. My Gen 3 did this as well. Works its way down as the oil temp warms.

[PNWTim]

It's really coming together now. I am not sure of this but it sounds like Coyotes may have an oil pressure bypass until the fluid warms to a certain point. Or they simply have really high oil pressure requirements because of the giant heads and valve train.

It will be interesting to see your results on the dB testing. I don't have Factory Five pipes and will be ordering my Gas'n pipes here in the next week or so. They must be a bit quieter because Georgie told me they do drop horsepower output by 10 or so hp due to the nature of the in-pipe mufflers.

The A/C charging is a little fiddly but pretty straightforward. Evacuate to check for leaks and remove contaminants, charge with the exact amount of refrigerant and enjoy the temperature controlled cockpit. Just find a good YouTube video and follow it step by step.

[MSumners]

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=215387&d=1750611216

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=215388&d=1750611216

Working on charging the AC. Picked up the required equipment at HF and pulled vacuum on the system for 30 minutes. To my absolute shock there is no evidence of a leak 1 hr later. I just assumed it would be Swiss cheese but all looks well and so far the budget crumpet looks like it did the job.

[MSumners]

Spoke too soon. 3 hrs pressure dropped to 25.

[PNWTim]

That is a super small leak. I would pull vacuum for 2 hours then hold and watch. See what/if the leak down is. Make sure your fixtures are tight on your gauges and fittings. A drop of 1 or 2 inches of mercury over 2 hours is pretty small. Easy for it to be part of your equipment.

There are test procedures we can go through if it won't hold vacuum. Best is with a nitrogen tank.

[PNWTim]

I just thought I would follow up on your thread since you commented on mine recently. I am guessing you've made some pretty good progress in the last 5 months? If you get a chance, let's see where you are in your build.

[MSumners]

not much progress in the last 5 months. Busy with summer activities but things are settling down and getting back at it. Started going back through the instructions. I was able to get the Gas'n pipes secured and checked the decibel levels as below. Noticeably much better but still not what I would call quiet but I think the sound is perfect. Of course this is open air and no panels or body on.
I was able to temporarily get the heat / AC controls hooked up. Verified the connections are correct but I only get 1 fan speed on any setting so I'll have to try to track that down. Once I verify the controls I still have to charge the AC. After that the short list is testing all the lights, painting the dash, making a new dash visor. Then I'll be close to getting into the body section.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=220985&d=1762110791

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=215372&d=1750558022

[MSumners]

Working through testing everything including the lights and the heat / AC.
I have the connections to the heat / AC switches connected and the heat and fan settings are working. I can hear the valve open when i turn the heat knob and all 3 fan speeds work. I verified the wires on the AC toggle are correct but I notice with the accessory on / engine off the toggle doesn't light up. Is this normal or something mis wired?

[MSumners]

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=221757&d=1763510384


Any reason not to mount here?

[MSumners]

Thought about the other side but also thinking battery access would be easier with it here and more common.

[MSumners]

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=222084&d=1764043755

Correct for the moroso expansion tank?

[edwardb]

Correct for the moroso expansion tank?

Yes and yes. The one to the radiator is to a barb connection on the top LH corner. Remove the valve and replace with a barb adapter. I get that radiator hose from Ford. It has a one-way check valve. Not sure the purpose and I've seen some say they didn't use it and didn't have any problems. I don't know... Also don't know which way the check valve is in play. The Ford hose has markings for tank and radiator. So I install it that way.

[MSumners]

Thanks!. After reading more about the expansion tank and the fact that I already had this tank on-hand was a no brainer to switch out the system. I like the idea of a more foolproof filling and burping process. Got the barb adaptor on there just need the right hose clamps now. Someday I’ll need an oetiker clamp and actually find the correct size out of the 200 I have, but that day is not today.

[MSumners]

Decided to cerakote the pipes and some other parts to go with the color scheme. Below is before and after prep in the blast cabinet. I’m sure this is some sort of insult to these beautiful pipes. Followed the cerakote instructions and really turned out looking great. As usual 95% is the prep work. Even got my son doing some of the spraying. Next up is cerakoting the dash and some panels then re-assembling. Last couple weeks I’ve been going through the wiring and cleaning up / shortening a lot of the wiring.
I’m adding in door poppers wired in to the DGD remote so I have a couple relays on order and will get that system tested.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=223322&d=1766888729

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=223323&d=1766888840

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=223320&d=1766888729

[MSumners]

Working on a few things. Finishing cerakoting the dash and some small pieces.
Wiring testing and attempt at reasonable clean-up continues.
I wired and tested the JDM-speed door poppers and got them working and connected through the Digital Guard Dog remote. I wired the driver door to the 'unlock' accessory output and the passenger door through the trunk output. As planned the unlock button engages the driver side and a longer hold on the button engages the passenger side.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=223744&d=1767981414

[JimStone]

Nice job on the Cerakote. I did my headers and side pipes on Tuesday . Stuff does spray out easy, but it smells terrible! Garage still stinks

[MSumners]

If I never have to re-install the drivers side header I can’t say I’d be disappointed.
That top bolt third back from the front makes you question your life choices.
But done and hopefully just on there for a good long time.

[JimStone]

If I never have to re-install the drivers side header I can’t say I’d be disappointed.
That top bolt third back from the front makes you question your life choices.
But done and hopefully just on there for a good long time.

I hear you. Yesterday, It took me a full 2 hours to drill, tap, install a single 10-32 button head screw for a P clamp in a tight spot in the trans tunnel (with trans already installed).

I kept thinking, " is this a good use of my time?"

[MSumners]

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=224736&d=1769403075

Dash is in process getting installed. I’m using the dash panel from snakebite and overestimated the amount of room behind the accessory panel. I had planned to put some toggles on it but there isn’t enough room so I’m troubleshooting that. Between the wiring, gauges and the air ducts it will be completely stuffed behind the dash.

[burchfieldb]

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=224736&d=1769403075

Dash is in process getting installed. I’m using the dash panel from snakebite and overestimated the amount of room behind the accessory panel. I had planned to put some toggles on it but there isn’t enough room so I’m troubleshooting that. Between the wiring, gauges and the air ducts it will be completely stuffed behind the dash.

You could add the Snakebite lower transmission tunnel covers to gain a bunch more space.
https://snakebitemotorworks.com/products/factory-five-daytona-coupe-gen-iii-and-mk5-roadster-lower-transmission-tunnel-covers

[MSumners]

You could add the Snakebite lower transmission tunnel covers to gain a bunch more space.
https://snakebitemotorworks.com/products/factory-five-daytona-coupe-gen-iii-and-mk5-roadster-lower-transmission-tunnel-covers

Oh yowza. That looks like it would solve a couple issues here, gain space and keep it sealed.
Done! Thanks for the heads up

[Papa]

Brent's stuff is very nice and very useful.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=224529&d=1769041938

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=224801&d=1769561604

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=224800&d=1769561604

[MSumners]

I’ve noticed the slowest leak on my driver side rear wilwood caliper.
If I leave it a week or two there is the tiniest bit of brake fluid at the inside lower corner as circled. Not enough to form a drop on the floor but obviously shouldn’t be there at all. The fitting and flex line are dry and not the culprit.
Any ideas? Inner seal or something I can do to troubleshoot the source? Again confident it’s not the fitting.


https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=225470&d=1770867318

[PNWTim]

If you touch the bottom of the caliper does it have residue? To end up on that lower corner it has to be making a track. I would wipe it clean then wait a week. Take some tissue paper and start cleaning from the top down both inside and outside until you hit some residue. You should be able to back track it from there.

[MSumners]

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=225667&d=1771170121

Dash is coming along. For all practical purposes I’m calling wiring a wrap. Some things obviously to finalize but all tested sans the AC system post charge

[MSumners]

If you touch the bottom of the caliper does it have residue? To end up on that lower corner it has to be making a track. I would wipe it clean then wait a week. Take some tissue paper and start cleaning from the top down both inside and outside until you hit some residue. You should be able to back track it from there.


Thanks good idea. Pulling the pads out and I’ll do this.

[MSumners]

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=226469&d=1772918922

Dash panel close to going in.

[PNWTim]

Looks good. I kind of feel like the dash, gauges and wiring are big milestones.

[F500guy]

Dash panel looks nice!

[Skuzzy]

Good looking dash.

[MSumners]

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=226519&d=1773023462

Agreed I’ll call this a milestone. Functional part of the dash is done. Everything works. A few cosmetic things to go in but otherwise complete. Fitting the AC/heat hoses behind the dash was no easy task. Once a day cooperates to open the barn door I’ll try to charge and test the AC.

[MSumners]

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=226892&d=1773715721

Continuing dash work and got the dash visor installed. Keeping with the plan and appreciating the simplicity. I coated the included visor in Cerakote LR (low reflective) black and riveted it in place.


https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=226893&d=1773716284

[JimStone]

The dash is coming coming together nicely. Looks great

[MSumners]

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=226934&d=1773801874

[PNWTim]

The script is pretty cool. Did you have it made?

[MSumners]

The script is pretty cool. Did you have it made?

Designed with billet badges, if you are interested PM me and I can send the invoice, based on the order number they should be able to pull it up and give a quote.

[MSumners]

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=227034&d=1773978543

When you flip the rear floor the wrong way and drill it you get to add extra access panels. Someone told me that.



Ok that’s crazy I have no idea where that picture of the jeep came from !

[JimStone]

Ok that’s crazy I have no idea where that picture of the jeep came from !



Same thing happened to me. A random cobra picture took place of the photo I was linking.

Strange glitch

[JimStone]

I found it. All those intruder photos are coming from this thread:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?53326-Paint-Color-blue-or-maybe-green


We have an infestation!

[PNWTim]

I was totally confused by this post!

[MSumners]

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=227416&d=1774666250


Testing photo attachments. Still weird things happening. If I open my thread on my iPhone or Mac air the photo above is that blue jeep but on my iPad it is my rear hatch. No idea. What image are other people seeing attached here?

[David Ferguson]

I see a picture of your coupe interior from the rear hatch area.

[PNWTim]

Back of your Daytona

[Skuzzy]

I see a picture of your coupe interior from the rear hatch area.

Same, but I am viewing from a desktop computer. Your phone may have cached that image. Just a thought.

[MSumners]

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=227472&d=1774736565

Working on sound deadening, making the trans tunnel cover finished piece, and got the carpet layed out so it can de-wrinkle.

[MSumners]

I know the recommended manual order of installing the aluminum panels, but has anyone found you can deviate from this prior to the body going on (and off, and on, and off, ad infinitum). Specifically the rear hatch area or cockpit rear sides?

[Namrups]

If memory serves me, the manual says to put the rear sides on after mounting the body. I mounted mine before without issue. same with the two corner pieces behind the seats. Makes it a little more challenging "tucking" them behind the body but doable.

Scott

[8secDuster]

Like Scott, I installed my rear hatch side panels and seals prior to the body going on with no issues.
I did do the interior rear "corner" panels after the body was on though.
Side panels in place will help support the body while reinstalling the rear body mounts.

[MSumners]

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=227793&d=1775357378

Bought the little adaptors and switched out for the gen 4 cover. Cerakoted to match the dash.

Making some brackets to fit the valve covers.

[Sea Hut]

I’m really enjoying watching and learning from your build! Thanks for sharing your progress!

[460.465USMC]

Looks great, Mike! I've been following the Gen 4 cover conversations. I'm curious which one you bought, and your source?

[MSumners]

Looks great, Mike! I've been following the Gen 4 cover conversations. I'm curious which one you bought, and your source?

I ordered the cover direct from Ford, it was 83$. Part number. M9680M50D. The little adaptors were actually more expensive. It was one of those purchases of convenience. Likely could fairly easily fabricate some but is the time worth it. They are from Sanders hot rods and mentioned in another post here, I forget exactly where. The fit perfect though. I actually had to replace the little rubbers gaskets the adaptors fit into on the engine as they got all cut up trying to get the bolts out of them. I do like the 4th gen cover. Time will tell If I'll keep the one I cerakoted. I think with the valve covers in place it'll look better too.

[MSumners]

Working on re-attaching the pipes and trying to get them roughly mocked up into the correct position. I am using the FFR headers, Gasn Pipes. On a Gen 3 Coyote. Looking for input on how high up on the side of the frame, how far away from the frame they should roughly be. Looking at the body it looks like they should sit higher than they currently are?
If so I'm trying to figure out the general stack of spacers I might need. With the Gas'n pipes have people used the longer support bracket they supply with success. Is so I will likely need additional angled spacers.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=227951&d=1775696876

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=227953&d=1775697966

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=227952&d=1775696876

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=227949&d=1775696876

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=227948&d=1775696876

[MSumners]

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=227979&d=1775787272

Going back to ground for another round of go-kart testing.

[MSumners]

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=228354&d=1776643535

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=228355&d=1776643535

27 miles on the go-kart. Working on seat and cockpit setup. I think everything is about final position.

Installed the remote jumper/charging posts as well. I had one experience with the roadster when the battery died and I had to reach down next to the moving belt to remove the jumper cables. Decided I wasn’t doing that again and added jumper posts. Same here as the battery is in a similar location.

[460.465USMC]

Looking great, Mike! That's a good point about adding the jump start posts for jumper cables...I didn't think about the removal part. Spinning belts and pulleys in very close proximity! Uff-da!