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View Full Version : Roadster First 1000 miles and California Registration Changes



mgibson020
10-31-2023, 02:39 PM
191781Thought i would post a few thoughts from the first 1000 miles and my California Registration Journey.

Registration- many have written about this, but i encountered a couple of new things that i have not seen others write about. the initial journey was the same as others, first visit to DMV, where they gave me two movement forms, one of which i used for the visit to CHP. the officer was very nice, checked for stolen parts, and gave me my VIN number which was the same as my factory five serial number. No problems there, back to the DMV. Here i paid my fees and taxes. i bought the blueprint engine package so i was able to deduct the taxes paid to Blueprint from my fees and taxes in California (watch for this!). i was then told to wait for a letter from Sacramento with my SPCN. WRONG! i don't know if their right hand and the left hand are disconnected, but this wrong now. i waited 7 weeks, nothing, called the DMV. Oh, it is on hold, go see San Clemente DMV again. So i go back, got a great lady who actually knew what she was doing. "You need your brake and light test before we issue the SPCN".

Finding a place to do it wasn't easy, but eventually i found a good garage, who was able to certify. WARNING- when i first showed up for brake and lights they asked if i had a parking brake indicator light, i said no, well that would be a fail they said. So i go and get a $9 switch from O'Reillys and repurposed one of the indicator lights i had not used. About an hour or two to install and test. Went back to test center.

Next challenge, i have the Breeze LED's. Everything works brilliantly except the front indicators, which will not work if the lights are on and the brake is being depressed. Consulted Mark, switched back to incandescent for now, passed the test. At some point I will fix that, but its a small issue, and the incandescent are fine for the indicators- highly recommend the LED's for the driving lights though.

Back to the DMV- found the same lady again, she was great. Applied for and got me my SPCN AND she gave me a 3 month "red tag" driving permit. Now i am on the road (legally!). once i get SPCN in the post from Sacramento i still need the BAR check, and one more visit to the DMV to get my tag.

FIRST 1000 miles-

Biggest thing- i got stopped by the cops. Young guy on a bike. Sheriff rather than highway patrol. he just wanted to look at the car and knew a lot about them. I wasnt speeding and didnt get a ticket. But then he pulls out his decimeter. i have the GasNpipes side pipes, touring edition (very highly recommended, a work of art). i thought, this will be no problem- NOPE! 97 db at idle about 3 feet from the pipe, and 108 db at 3000 revs. Legal limit in California is 96db. Opps. Wrote to Georgie so he is making me up a quieter set of pipes. Sacrilege i know, but the cops here are rabid about exhaust noise because of the motorbikes. i think the touring pipes are perfect, just loud or quiet enough depending on your perspective. But to be legal i need quieter pipes. 8 weeks wait, but Georgie to the rescue none the less. i am careful where i rev my engine now, and drive in fear of being pulled over for noise. In Orange county this is no joke unfortunately.

Heat in the cockpit- ok i knew this might be an issue, but its become and obsession with me. The passenger side is fine. i have head barrier (Thermo-tec) on the footboxes and fire wall (on inside not engine compartment). the drivers side though has more challenges. Two real sources- the heater even though its not running, and around the sides of the drivers side foot box. Did some research on the forum, common issues. the heater is easy to solve- just buy a decent quality shower cap, and put it over the heater box in the engine compartment (no, i am not kidding), works great. cuts out 80 to 90 percent of the air that is forced in over the heater box when the car is moving, and which then finds its way down the vent tubes and out of the vents. i also bought two (Amazon) vent heads that actually close, they help too. Still get a bit of ambient heat down the pipes etc, but no big deal.

Second is the air around the side. i used pipe insulation from home depot. i stuffed it down the sides between the body and the foot box. i have not entirely stopped the airflow. This is Caddyshack to me. i will get this under control. Not bad but, i am obsessed with it now. At night its quite pleasant, during the day in Southern California, less so. And in any case i want to control the heat coming into the cockpit.

i also didn't get all the footbox area with the heat shield during construction (my bad). i have had to retrofit heat shield, which has done my back and wrists no good.

Lessons learned for builders here (and my next build), cover every inch of footbox and all surfaces near the engine compartment with heat shield. Secondly try to put the barrier between the foot box and the body in before putting the body on, and use something better than stuffing pipe insulation. Summit has a bunch of products that would work. Some guesswork required on where to put the insultation etc, but now i know where i would put it. More is better if you want to keep the heat out.

two layers of heat shield on the drivers footbox where it gets close to the headers would also be a good idea.

I think some heat will always come in, it's just - is this controllable and reasonable.

Engine- Blueprint 347 with EFI. works great, 480hp, similar toque. only issue is that it idles at 1000 to 1100 revs, not the 850 i set it at. Vibrates a bit at idle too, which disappears immediately it gets to 1300 revs. i have question into Blueprint on this. Holly Snipper forum has 312 reasons on why this might be happening.

Car drives great after second go with alignment. Fantastic fun, and it looks wonderful in Ford Red/Wimbledon White by Jeff Millar. Lady in a 150k Merc truck pulls up to me last night, winds the window down, "wonderful car, enjoy" she said. No visit to the gas station lasts less than 20 minutes. Brakes are sharp after i re-bled them at 500 miles. Every head turns, every kid smiles. Its just a blast to drive. i go to get milk, it takes an hour. Gas consumption on the other hand, is less exciting at $6 a gallon. i need a new line item on my budget for that. You can actually see the gas gauge moving!

Factory Five Racing Mk4 Roadster
Build school Feb 22
Ordered March 22. Received December 22
Go cart May 23
Blueprint 347 EFI
Gasnpipes side pipes
15 inch wheels
IRS
Bespoke leather interior (light camel)
Paint by Jeff Millar
Power Steering, heater, wipers
Jeff Thompson indicator, trunk drop box

runamuk
11-01-2023, 04:48 AM
Great write up, thanks
$6 a gallon ...Yikes

Daddy O
11-01-2023, 08:06 AM
Thanks for your perspective on the SB100 experience. I am up in Long Beach and going through it now. Brake and lamp done, chp appointment next week. Bummer to hear about the noise crackdown in Orange County. What area did you get pulled over? Have not heard of others on here in CA having been db checked so a bit concerning.

ggunter
11-01-2023, 10:56 AM
I am always amazed by the dog and pony show California makes you guys go through to register a car. I feel bad for you. It just shouldn't be that difficult. As screwed up as Maryland is, it was a one hour deal with the State Police, (looking for stolen parts, and that guy couldn't have been any cooler) and 30 minutes in DMV to get my Historic tags which takes it out of state inspection and emissions. It's about the only thing MD makes easy for you.

Hoooper
11-01-2023, 11:06 AM
Its not possible to perform an SAE J1492 test on the side of the road. Good thing he didnt give you a ticket though, even with new pipes it would probably fail the test when performed correctly. Thankfully the exhaust law is typically only applied to the loud and shrill fart can Hondas and people hooning around.

john42
11-01-2023, 11:38 AM
My work is floating the idea of me moving to California. Interesting the first place my mind went was... how do I register my Cobra. I have a Challenge car, registered as a "1965 Shelby Cobra" in New Hampshire. No emissions, no... nothing.. What would I have to do to license and drive it in California?

RJD
11-01-2023, 12:12 PM
There's a couple of tweaks you can make to the Holley Sniper to get the idle under control - these are from the Holley Sniper full manual. Steps 2 and 3 are in the "Advanced Learn" portion of the manual.

1. Throttle Blade Adjustment

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2. IAC Hold Position

3. IAC Ramp Start (RPM above idle)

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4. If the above steps don't work, try adding a wind to the secondary throttle shaft return spring per this video:

https://youtu.be/avRqQZBOxP0?si=e8H2-B9yqi22nZ1V

If none of the above work, you may have RFI/EMI interference with the Sniper's ECU.
- Check that sensor wires are not bundled with power wires
- Check that sensor wires and power wires are not in close proximity to and run parallel to each other
- Check that the coil is at least 6 inches from the Sniper ECU on the front of the unit

EZ$
11-01-2023, 01:13 PM
John42, I believe that all you will need is a closed loop PCV system. That was all that was required back in the day. I'm not sure how they will handle the registered as a 1965 is concerned. They know it wasn't built in 1965, and those that have registered that way have had nothing but problems. As a note, mine is registered as a 2021 as that was when I completed and went through registration.

hitman912
11-02-2023, 08:13 PM
The sb100 process is different for everyone it seems. CHP, brake and lamp, and BAR were easy peasy for me last month - I even drove by a sheriff and CHP at 4k rpm on the way to the bar and they didn't care.


The DMV is where I had to wait and get frustrated, but even then it was mostly waiting. I did a write up as well.

John Ibele
11-04-2023, 02:17 PM
Heat in the cockpit topic ... meant to mention that in my own end of season post.

Even in Minnesota, I immediately knew I had some work to do in this area. I have foam insulation jammed between body and frame temporarily for now, and the full treatment will come when the body goes on for good after paint. I also followed your direction and got vents which more fully closed. Two other areas of opportunity:

I'm up to rev 10 in my Sniper tune, making gradual changes at full operating temp. One of them - advancing timing at idle - took a lot of heat out of my side pipes. You can't do this without knowing the impact to the engine, because you don't want to be risking detonation - proceed with a professional tuner or at your own risk. I only have Thermo-Tec heat barrier on the inside of my footboxes and nothing on the outside, and it's virtually a non-contributor to heat in the cockpit now.

Changing out the cable actuated (in my case) heater valve for a true bypass unit (Cable Operated Bypass Heater Valve, Pull to Open (https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Operated-Bypass-Heater-25-1018/dp/B00LEUVB30/ref=pd_ci_mcx_mh_mcx_views_0?pd_rd_w=eoHyX&content-id=amzn1.sym.225b4624-972d-4629-9040-f1bf9923dd95%3Aamzn1.symc.40e6a10e-cbc4-4fa5-81e3-4435ff64d03b&pf_rd_p=225b4624-972d-4629-9040-f1bf9923dd95&pf_rd_r=K9YRBPHAKWCDDVR3ZJYZ&pd_rd_wg=j7FxJ&pd_rd_r=f4970e37-ce39-481c-8b01-777c020b6a60&pd_rd_i=B00LEUVB30)). I can't vouch for this yet since I haven't tried it. But I'll be swapping this in over the winter. I have a hard time believing the air temp under the hood is as high as what's coming out of my heater vents, and I know the Vintage Air valve doesn't completely shut off flow.