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View Full Version : Moving the alternator on BPE small block



zee
10-16-2023, 01:37 PM
Hey,

I am considering moving my alternator down and a bit more to the passenger side:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=191226&d=1697476352

Has anyone used a bracket to do this? CVF sells a bracket that'll work, but then I don't know if the belt would fit: https://www.cvfracing.com/ford-small-block-alternator-bracket-289-302-1969/

Thanks.

Bob Cowan
10-16-2023, 01:45 PM
Simple. And will cost you nothing. Remove the adjuster rod and it's bracket. Roll the alternator over, so it is hanging down from it's pivot point. Now re-install the adjuster rod and bracket at the new "bottom" of the alternator, and connect it to a convenient bolt below. That's the way nearly all of them were done from the factory back in the 60's and 70's.

zee
10-16-2023, 01:49 PM
Simple. And will cost you nothing. Remove the adjuster rod and it's bracket. Roll the alternator over, so it is hanging down from it's pivot point. Now re-install the adjuster rod and bracket at the new "bottom" of the alternator, and connect it to a convenient bolt below. That's the way nearly all of them were done from the factory back in the 60's and 70's.

Genius, let me try that!

DanQ
10-16-2023, 01:55 PM
Moving an alternator as you described should not change the fore and aft position, just an up and down change, which may cause a slightly shorter or longer serpentine belt being needed, but they come in roughly 1/2" length increments. The coding for serpentine belts is quite easy. My belt is a K060716 which is 6 ribs wide, and 71.6" long. My old belt was a K060755, which was a 6 rib, 75.5" long belt. I have changed my pulley and belt layout several times so far and it was just a matter of going to O'Reilley's and picking a longer or shorter belt off the wall. I think I finally came up with the cleanest belt layout so far.

191231

zee
10-16-2023, 04:20 PM
Moving an alternator as you described should not change the fore and aft position, just an up and down change, which may cause a slightly shorter or longer serpentine belt being needed, but they come in roughly 1/2" length increments. The coding for serpentine belts is quite easy. My belt is a K060716 which is 6 ribs wide, and 71.6" long. My old belt was a K060755, which was a 6 rib, 75.5" long belt. I have changed my pulley and belt layout several times so far and it was just a matter of going to O'Reilley's and picking a longer or shorter belt off the wall. I think I finally came up with the cleanest belt layout so far.

191231

It worked, thank you!

191234

Jeff Kleiner
10-16-2023, 04:24 PM
It worked, thank you!

191234

I'm afraid you're going to find that you don't have sufficient belt wrap on the crank pulley.

Jeff

rich grsc
10-16-2023, 04:42 PM
100% what Jeff is saying, you won't be thrilled with the results.

Jacob McCrea
10-16-2023, 04:57 PM
Agreed, it will physically work but squeal like a pig at startup. I would buy a low-mount alternator bracket kit from Speed Doctor Racing Components and drill it to add a smooth idler pulley to it to get a little more wrap around the crank pulley. I will post a picture in a day or so.

CraigS
10-17-2023, 07:57 AM
You will have plenty of wrap if you run a reverse rotation water pump. But you will also need an idler pulley to keep the belt off the top of the water pump. This is a 408 based on a 351 (so slightly taller block). My alt hung off the top outer threaded hole in the head. The idler off the top inner hole on the other head.
191267

zee
10-17-2023, 10:15 AM
I'm afraid you're going to find that you don't have sufficient belt wrap on the crank pulley.

Argh, I didn't think about that *at all*.

This is what I was planning on doing (trying to show how the belt would go and the rotation):
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=191273&d=1697555659

Jeff Kleiner
10-17-2023, 11:37 AM
Argh, I didn't think about that *at all*.

This is what I was planning on doing (trying to show how the belt would go and the rotation):


That's going to have less than 90 degrees of wrap on the crank pulley, not even close to enough to drive the alternator, water pump and PS pump.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=191277&d=1697560117

If you can incorporate idlers between the PS pump and crank and between the crank and alternator you could get more wrap on the driving pulley.

Jeff

zee
10-17-2023, 12:08 PM
Thanks, Jeff, you saved future Zee a ton of headache and heartache! I owe you one!

I think with a pulley this will work. The manufacturer of my alternator bracket sells them, he has one that he thinks will work.

191279

zee
10-17-2023, 12:44 PM
Thanks everyone.

I am putting it all back to the way it was before.

Will either fabricate a different solution for the tank or give up on this tank altogether (in which case, it'll be available for sale here).

Rdone585
10-17-2023, 08:51 PM
I don't have part numbers. But in concept, you could run a two belt system. Use a different belt for the PS. You would need a crank pully with two belt positions, and then spacers to move the PS pump forward. Or you could run the alternator on the separate belt. Just didn't want you to give up on the tank if you really want it. It is very helpful to have the fill point for water above the radiator.

weendoggy
10-18-2023, 08:24 AM
Why not modify the expansion tank for clearance? Seems you're making more of a simple setup, unless that tank is too damn low.

mburger
10-23-2023, 09:51 PM
I used Speed Doctor’s bracket on my BPE 347 to make room for my tank. No modifications or issues. Works great. (Ignore the crank trigger wheel. There’s nothing to see here…)


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