Fuse box electrical issue

[Junbug]

Doing my final checks before we try the first start. Everything seems to be wired per the FFR manual, Gen3 coyote manual. I have power to my master cutoff switch, power to my bus bar and power going to my fuse box. With the ignition turned to ACC or Start, nothing happens. When I test the leads coming from the fuse box to my dash/ignition there is no power.
So going back to the fuse box I’ve tried to trace where the power goes once at the fuse box.
Attached is a pic that I hope helps. I’m no electrical expert so please bear with me.
All green arrows point to lines with power (from a new Group 51 battery pushing 16 volts).
All red arrows point to lines without power.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=191177&d=1697413582
Details on the fuse box:
It appears there is power in the BATT FED section of the fuse box. Both the Horn and Fan relays have power.
The entire ACC FED section of the fuse box has no power to any of the fuses.
There is power at some of the fuses in the IGN FED, the fuel pump fuse to the fuel pump relay. Other than that the EFI or COIL, CHOKE and TURN SIGNAL are all dead.
I’ve checked all the fuses and they appear to be good.
I also have the inertia switch depressed and in a vertical position, the coyote clutch safety switch depressed as well as the brake safety switch.
Any help for this amateur electrician would be appreciated.
Thanks,
-Bryan

[edwardb]

I don't know how much time I'd spend probing around the fuse panel. The common denominator to the three groups in the fuse panel (Batt, Acc Fed and Ign Fed) is the ignition switch. You should be reading 12V at the battery post on the ignition switch. Acc and Ign get their power by the ignition switch position. So I'd start with checking you have voltage at the switch and that it's wired exactly right. Always a chance the switch itself is defective but that's somewhat unlikely IMO.

[maclonchas]

Bryan,

As Paul said you should check from the ignition switch out to the four legs of that switch. The IGN Battery red wire is where I would start first. Do you have power to that switch? If not, trace backward to bus bar/ master disconnect. If you do have power, test the acc circuit at the switch with the key in acc position (brown wire). If that is good check the leg of the ign switch on ignition (orange wire). You can use aVOM or test light to verify voltage. Last leg is start Blue wire. If those are all good I would work down the path of ignition, simplifying the clutch or neutral switch (bypass) until you gotten good start.

Hope this helps

[Bill Elliott]

I would really question that 16 volts, hope that is just a typo

[Junbug]

Thanks gents…. I went back through earlier posts I made when I was wiring up my master cutoff. And realizing from your advice I was not providing power to the ignition. I traced the power via the RF diagram and realized I had dieted out the IGN SW-> SOL wire. So I dug it out of my box of discarded wires and connected it direct from my bus bar to the ignition BAT terminal. Now I’ve got power to my dash as well as to the other ignition posts when in the right key position.
Thanks for pointing out my omission. Now on to the next steps before turning the coyote over for the first time.

-Bryan

[Junbug]

I would really question that 16 volts, hope that is just a typo

I believe my multimeter is out of whack, but consistent. The battery is a brand new group 51 I bought last week l rated to provide 12v. I’ll try another multimeter but your point is taken, though nothing has started smoking yet.