Start problem when hot

[Falcondriver]

New build. BluePrint 427 with Holly Sniper. Starts perfectly every time except when hot. 5 min. after shutdown starts perfectly. When hot the starter will not even turn the engine over. Neighbor says headers get the starter hot. When it cools a little works perfect. Battery new. Engine and starter new. Not really a problem unless you kill it at a light.

Any thoughts?

I'm going to wrap the headers on the starter side to see if that helps.

[FF33rod]

Heat soak on the starter, have the same issue on the 347 in my '33.... Look to put a heat shield between the starter and headers, etc... there are various products on the market including from DEI...

Steve

[Its Bruce]

What gauge is your battery to starter cable?

[BEAR-AvHistory]

To much initial ignition lead?

[cv2065]

Change your battery cables to 2 gauge.

[brewha]

Run a ground directly from the starter to the frame if you don’t have one.

[Falcondriver]

4 gauge, battery in the trunk.

[Its Bruce]

4 gauge, battery in the trunk.

I suggest upgrading for that length. I run 1/0 from trunk box location and I've heard one COULD get away with 4 gauge but only when the battery is mounted in front of the engine. I would think you're really pushing the limits of a 4 gauge wire on a 10:1 427.

[Jeff Kleiner]

4 gauge, battery in the trunk.

Change all cables to #2 or better. And I mean ALL...battery + to solenoid, solenoid to starter if the solenoid is remote, battery - to chassis and engine block to chassis.

Jeff

[cv2065]

I suggest upgrading for that length. I run 1/0 from trunk box location and I've heard one COULD get away with 4 gauge but only when the battery is mounted in front of the engine. I would think you're really pushing the limits of a 4 gauge wire on a 10:1 427.

I had 4 gauge with the battery in the front and had hot starting issues. Took Jeff K's advice and swapped to 2 gauge. All cured.

[Busamike]

I had the same issues. Followed the suggestions here and now a year and half late3r no issues.

[NiceGuyEddie]

Run a ground directly from the starter to the frame if you don’t have one.

WORKED FOR ME. 15 Years and no problems with hot starts since. The 2ga cable is only about 10".

[Pat Landymore]

I’ll chime in with a quick story from my ‘35 FFR Truck build.

Had a brand new generic (read offshore built) starter, about 5 Ft of supplied battery cable and a brand new Optima 925 battery. Oh, and turbocharged big block Chevy powerplant. When she was hot…all I got was a ‘click’. Spray some cold water on the starter, it would immediately start right up.

After some deep dives online, l learned lots of these offshore starters take 20-40 Amps to kick the major solenoid on them hard enough to engage the full battery power and actually get the starter rolling.

Long story short, I mounted a 40 amp cube relay at the starter and used it as a go between the small FFR supplied starter wiring and the starter itself. I think what was happening is the small diameter FFR supplied wiring couldn’t handle (nor should be expected to…) the 20+ amps needed by these offshore starters.

And that was the last of my issues…afterwards having driven the truck on days ranging from -10F to + 85F.

My two cents for whatever they’re worth….

[Falcondriver]

Thanks for all the input. Changed all battery cables to 2 gauge. Including direct engine to battery ground.