brake line flare

[Bill Elliott]

Is it even possible to do proper dbl flare with one of these 189432

Four tries and tool goes wonky. 189433


This is my continuing saga of bad luck, or bad operator. I have watched tons of videos on dbl flare. I made sure tube was thru tool to height of first step on adapter. Loss of words at this point.

[Bill Elliott]

From what I am reading the only answer is the Eastwood tool.

[edwardb]

From what I am reading the only answer is the Eastwood tool.

That's not the only answer and I'm sure others will chime in. Including those that don't like the Eastwood tool. But it's worked for me and I can only cite my own experience. Five builds including three with all SS lines. Takes practice and some work, but all completed with zero initial and long term leaks.

As far as that tool you're trying to use I had one of those way back and never could get very serviceable flares with it. They frequently would go off center. So I agree with your frustration. But the picture examples you're showing don't look exactly right. Shouldn't be that messed up. Regardless, I would recommend against it.

BTW, what material is that? Looks like SS. If so, you'll never get good flares with tool and even with the Eastwood (and others) it can be frustrating material to work with.

[Papa]

Like Paul said, Eastwood isn't the only option, but it certainly worked well for my NiCopp brake lines. This is the very first attempt to do a double flare:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=84535&d=1524420303

For me, it works very well. I've never tried to do flares with stainless steel, so I can't advise on the best way to get those done if that's what you're using.

[JohnK]

I agree with Paul that the Eastwood tool may not be the only answer, but it has worked for me. I initially got a roll of relatively inexpensive Nicopp to practice with, and that was very helpful. I eventually made all my brake lines out of stainless steel, which is much more difficult to work with, but I was able to get serviceable flares with the Eastwood tool. One piece of advice I read from someone was to pick up a jeweler's loupe like this one (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B078N34WZR/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_image?ie=UTF8&th=1), and inspect every flare under high magnification looking for micro cracks in the flare that may not be visible with the naked eye. After a few practice flares you'll get the hang of making consistent crack-free flares even in stainless steel. For me, the main source of defective double flares was applying too much pressure on the second flare. With proper lubrication and the correct amount of pressure, the Eastwood tool should work just fine.

[GoDadGo]

From what I am reading the only answer is the Eastwood Tool.

I borrowed my buddy's tool when I did my lines.
Later I bought the tool because it was so cool.
Shown below is that tool in action:

https://youtu.be/9yZYIG9Dmak

[Dave M]

I’ve been making brake line flares with a kit like what you pictured for years and never had a problem. That being said it’s a good quality kit made in the US that my dad bought back in the 50’s or 60’s and handed down to me. Can’t tell what the quality of your tool is from the pic but it’s possible it’s the tool and not you that’s the problem.

[Jim1855]

I've been struggling with the Eastwood tool and nicop lines, wrinkles on the backside. Maybe it the tubing.
Jim

[Bill Elliott]

That's not the only answer and I'm sure others will chime in. Including those that don't like the Eastwood tool. But it's worked for me and I can only cite my own experience. Five builds including three with all SS lines. Takes practice and some work, but all completed with zero initial and long term leaks.

As far as that tool you're trying to use I had one of those way back and never could get very serviceable flares with it. They frequently would go off center. So I agree with your frustration. But the picture examples you're showing don't look exactly right. Shouldn't be that messed up. Regardless, I would recommend against it.

BTW, what material is that? Looks like SS. If so, you'll never get good flares with tool and even with the Eastwood (and others) it can be frustrating material to work with.

Using nicop .028 wall

[Bill Elliott]

I went ahead and ordered the Eastwood tool. Cheap tools get cheap results

[Bob Cowan]

I've used a tool like yours for many years. It does take a little bit of practice, though. Set the tubing just a smidgen deeper into the tool face.

[SteveWorth]

I was really struggling using the same brake flare tool and went searching for help at “YouTube University”.
I found this very helpful video, used the same method and got perfect flares!
https://youtu.be/4fmF9mm3hsM?si=-g9exUXbMHb8psiU

Steve

[CraigS]

For me SS is by far the toughest material to flare. So you need the best tool and patience, and I agree w/ JohnK on a magnified inspection on each. One reason I don't use SS is that, in my opinion, the tubing needs to be soft enough to conform a little bit to any imperfections in whatever it is being attached to. The one time I used SS it was really tough to get rid of the seeps. Tightening those little 3/8 nuts so tight that a SnapOn tubing wrench darn near rounds them isn't my idea of a great way to build brake lines. NiCopp is easiest but Advance or AZ has the dark green line like FFR supplies which to me are a good compromise.

[Mike.Bray]

I never was adept at making double flares, don't know if it was the tool or the operator. Probably both. I was told a very long time ago double flares on stainless steel is a big no-no so I never even attempted that. For stainless I always used 37 degree single flares and AN fittings. If I was to attempt double flares again I would definitely be using NICopp tubing.

[cc2Arider]

Hey Mike B,

I noticed in your build thread that you have the Wilwood calipers...and it's pretty clear you have excellent skills making SS lines :cool:

Did you need to get AN parts to adapt, or are the fittings supplied in the Wilwood kit already AN-type?

Thanks

Craig C

[Mike.Bray]

Hey Mike B,

I noticed in your build thread that you have the Wilwood calipers...and it's pretty clear you have excellent skills making SS lines :cool:

Did you need to get AN parts to adapt, or are the fittings supplied in the Wilwood kit already AN-type?

Thanks

Craig C

You have to buy them. 1/8 NPT to -3 AN. I used Earl's steel fittings.

[Mastertech5]

I have a similar hand flaring tool and I've used this type my whole career as a tech. At my last place of employment they had a hydraulic flaring tool. They aren't cheap but it makes flaring a simple and perfect thing. It's cost prohibitive for a one job thing. I had trouble with mine cocking to one side also. I noticed that the part of the books that's pull against the bar were not flat because of the casting allowing it to **** sideways. I filed them flat and level and it's much better now. Try not to let the sides turn and hit the bar. I put the end of the bar in a vise. Make sure the one you buy has 2 stepped flare formers. The work as a guide for tubing length that sticks out of the bar.

[dbo_texas]

I used this one from Capri (bought on Amazon) for the 45deg double brake flares. Way cheaper than the Eastwood option and seems to do a nice job (way better than the cheapo one I tried first):
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=174579&d=1667785819

For the 37deg single flares (for AN fittings), I used a Rigid tool - also did a good job.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=174578&d=1667785819

[Bill Elliott]

First flare with the Eastwood tool. (it was the tool)


189596

[toadster]

LOVE my eastwood flare tool... NiCopp lines help a LOT as well - I always admire someone who can do Stainless Lines though...

https://cobradreams.com/2021/08/02/finalized-the-abs-brakes-part-2/