Father & Daughter build in North Frisco

[Mbufford]

Hello All,

As many of you already saw on the regular roadster forum, I finally ordered my kit after years of coveting the cars I’ve seen you guys build.

So, as I await delivery, I figured I’d go ahead and start my build thread since I’ve technically already started my build—I’ve been working on figuring out how to incorporate ABS into the car, am very close to done, and will be posting a write up here once I’ve finished that project on my test bench.

I’ve ordered the MKIV complete kit with IRS, power steering, and Coyote install parts. Despite the controversy surrounding the issue (please refrain from raising your arguments about this), I’m going nonroll bars. I just think the street version 427s Shelby put out look so much better without them. If I do some stupid stuff and it’s my time, so be it.

In addition to the kit, I plan the following:

Gen 3 Coyote w/ TKX from Forte
ABS system from 2008 GT500
RaceTCS traction control
Forte hydraulic clutch and slave
Forte QR windshield brackets
Breeze upper and lower radiator mounts
Breeze front battery kit
Breeze cubby kit
Breeze fan shroud
Watson push-button ignition
Whitby seat belt bezels
Whitby center console
520 E-brake
Finish line seat track
Replica parts radiator bezel

Im considering using this grill mesh:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B097XJZN18?ref_=cm_sw_r_apin_dp_D50QR5WC4YW5JWYAEM 16

Not solid on my rim choice yet, but I am a fan of the Bullitt rims on these cars. Probably order from LMR.

I will be doing a full blackout on all metal parts—all the normally chrome/polished pieces.

Main body color will be a shade of blue. Im considering getting the equipment from Spectra Chrome and doing a metallic blue like what you can see being laid down in one of the pictures here: https://spectrachrome.com/buyersguide/

I’ve got my chassis dolly (thanks to one of the local forum members) and build my buck. My tools are cleaned, garage organized, and ready to start throwing my money into this endless pit! Can’t wait for delivery.

And, thank you all in advance for all of your support and answering my likely many stupid questions.

[BRRT]

Congratulations on the order! I'm sure you are counting the days to delivery.

[Mike.Bray]

Nice build. I used the Digital Guard Dawg (https://www.summitracing.com/parts/DGD-PBS-I-O)push button start system, seems like a nice unit so far.

[Lickity-Split]

I really like you're plan to skip the roll bar. The look will separate yours from most of the other Cobra replicas. Clean and smooth :cool:

Convertibles have been a part of my garage for many years. Mostly old Corvettes. My MK4 is actually the only convert with a roll bar I've ever been in.

[Mbufford]

I really like you're plan to skip the roll bar. The look will separate yours from most of the other Cobra replicas. Clean and smooth :cool:.

That’s partially the point—I think it looks better. But it’s also historically accurate. Many, if not most, the street production cobras had no bars. I think it just looks way cleaner. As a tall guy, it wouldn’t save me in a roll over anyway, and I’m more likely to give myself brain damage by banging my head into the thing than I am to roll the car anyway.

[460.465USMC]

Welcome aboard! You have some really nice options for your build. I agree the roll bar delete will make your Roadster stand out. It's great you have a clear vision for your build, and doing it your way. You're in for a blast.

[wrp]

Looking forward to seeing you around the area and to watching your build come together

[Mbufford]

The kit is built and ready for Stewart to pick up. Anticipated delivery is the Sunday or Monday after thanksgiving.192365

[Mike.Bray]

How exciting Matt! Do you need some help unloading it? I'm available.

[Mbufford]

That’d be a huge help, I’m sure! I’ll text you when I have the specific time, but they’re picking up tomorrow and so far it’s looking to be either Sunday or Monday for delivery.

[BUDFIVE]

Mbufford, I think our kits are on the same Stewart truck! Mine too was scheduled for 21st pickup, delivery after the weekend 190 miles South of Frisco. Good luck!
BUDFIVE

[Mbufford]

Excellent! The driver is on his way from Florida and should be at my place by noon tomorrow. Then there’s another Frisco delivery a couple miles from me, and one in Mansfield. I’d guess he’s headed to the hill country after Mansfield. Time to get excited! Although, after I receive shipment tomorrow, I have to turn around and jump on a plane to Minnesota for a couple days…

[cpac7r]

Mine might be the last one on the truck, Todd with Stewart said there were 5 coming to Texas. I assume mine will show up after he drops off BUDFIVE’s car.

[CaptB]

The blackout work is quite a lot however, it looks great in the end. I think the gas cap was the biggest pain in the ***.

[Mbufford]

Day 1-Delivery day!

Kit arrived today and I got my inventory knocked out this evening. Since I had a couple buddies over for the delivery, I took advantage of the manpower advantage and pulled the body off already. 192735192734192733

Once I get all the boxes moved to my storage room, I’ll be able to get started!

192735192734192733

[finleycraft]

How heavy was the body with buck? I see you are using a cable lift attached to the ceiling and I have been thinking about doing the same when I do a build to keep the floor space as open as possible.

[Mbufford]

How heavy was the body with buck? I see you are using a cable lift attached to the ceiling and I have been thinking about doing the same when I do a build to keep the floor space as open as possible.

The body only weighs around 80 pounds. The buck probably weighs around the same.

I used two kayak hoist sets I got off Amazon for fairly cheap. Hoisting it all up wasn’t the easiest thing—it took some strength, and you’ll need two people minimum for this. But, I don’t anticipate taking it up and down more than a couple times, so I’m fine with it.

[Mbufford]

The blackout work is quite a lot however, it looks great in the end. I think the gas cap was the biggest pain in the ***.

Why is that? Is it the disassembly and reassembly of everything? I was thinking the windshield frame would be the biggest PITA.

[Mbufford]

Day 2: after I finished working for the day, I got all the boxes moved to my storage room and got started with predrilling my panels to send off for coating. Realized pretty quick that my limited amount of 1/8” clecos I had sitting around wasn’t going to be near enough for this project. So, I jumped on Amazon and ordered a 50-pack.

Doubt I’ll get much time to work on it again before the weekend. But I’ll be spending all day Saturday in the garage.

192767

[Mbufford]

1st weekend (days 3&4)

I finished fitting, predrilling, and removing all the aluminum panels, and will drop off for coating this week. I got the front suspension installed and rough aligned. But I stopped before doing the brakes to make brackets for the wheel speed sensors. Since RT brackets aren’t available anymore, I found a picture online of one, used it as a template, and started cutting them out. I didn’t get to finish because my wife invaded the garage to tell me I had to get ready for a wedding we’re going to (read:I’m being forced to spend the evening with my wife’s boring friends). I’ll get the brackets wrapped up sometime this week, and be ready for another productive weekend.

192870192871

[Mbufford]

My scaling for printing the picture of the brackets was off, so the brackets I made wouldn’t work.

Instead of jacking with getting it sized right through guess and check, I just made my own more streamlined design. 192897

[Mbufford]

Finished the brackets and got them installed. I removed the sensors afterward and will reinstall when I do the ABS.

193000193001

[OB6]

Nice work!

[Mbufford]

Got the Differential painted and installed today. As many others have discovered, doing this alone is a PITA, but a little creative use of ratchet straps and a jack makes it possible.

I should be able to get the IRS and rear brakes done this weekend.

193059193060193061193062

[Mbufford]

I got the IRS installed today. The only part that gave me any trouble were the toe arms—they had to be removed, chocked into the vice, and spread out quite a bit. I didn’t get as far as I’d have liked though—I was hoping to getting around to painting the rear calipers today so I could install the brakes tomorrow.

But I had a fight with my grease gun… it’s a super old grease gun I got when my grandfather passed, but it doesn’t take cartridges apparently. I ended up buying a new one and had a fight with it because the plunger wouldn’t go into the grease tube. So, after fully disassembling lubing up the plunger, reassembling, and cleaning all the damn grease from my hands, tools, and workbench, I was back on track.

I suppose it’s a good thing that the most frustrating part of the build so far has been my grease gun.

193093193092

[OB6]

Great progress. Grease gun mishaps are the worst.

[Mbufford]

Well, I hit my first major WTF moment of the build. I ordered my kit with the standard 2015 IRS brakes option. I prepped and painted the calipers yesterday, and went to install them this evening. Once I downloaded the instructions and saw it saying I needed to cut another ear off my knuckle, I was taken back a bit. It would have been nice for that to be something mentioned before I painted and assembled my entire IRS!!

So, I got on the trusty forum and found some old threads explaining that this brake kit is for 15” rims—nobody mentioned that when I ordered my kit! What’s worse, they call it 2015 IRS Brakes—but it isn’t 2015 brakes at all! So now, from what I’m seeing on the forums, my best recourse is to just go buy ACTUAL 2015 IRS brakes, and now I’m stuck with a brake kit that isn’t returnable because I painted them, and likely no one will want to buy from me.

WTF Factory Five!

[nashuanuke]

Well, I hit my first major WTF moment of the build. I ordered my kit with the standard 2015 IRS brakes option. I prepped and painted the calipers yesterday, and went to install them this evening. Once I downloaded the instructions and saw it saying I needed to cut another ear off my knuckle, I was taken back a bit. It would have been nice for that to be something mentioned before I painted and assembled my entire IRS!!

So, I got on the trusty forum and found some old threads explaining that this brake kit is for 15” rims—nobody mentioned that when I ordered my kit! What’s worse, they call it 2015 IRS Brakes—but it isn’t 2015 brakes at all! So now, from what I’m seeing on the forums, my best recourse is to just go buy ACTUAL 2015 IRS brakes, and now I’m stuck with a brake kit that isn’t returnable because I painted them, and likely no one will want to buy from me.

WTF Factory Five!

Here's a video of AAron cutting that ear off with the spindle on the car if you're interested. It's a pain, thankfully I'd watched this video before I got too far and was able to do it before I put it on the car.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1uc9DSQU-vU

[Mbufford]

Well, for those who didn’t see the thread in the regular Roadster forum, the brake issue got worked out: I sent the 11.65 back for a refund and bought some EBay new take-offs from a Mustang.

Got the brakes bolted up, with zero issues. So, I’m happy about that.

Once I got the brakes on, I proceeded to work up my E-Stopp install, which turned out pretty good. I just used a piece of 1/8” 6061 plate, and mounted to the front side of the fuel tank hangers. I ordered the 2015 Mustang e-brake cables from Rock Auto, but had to resize them both. I tapped the hole on top of the knuckles so I could bolt down my home-made cable clamps—I tried drilling out a couple 3/8” cable clamps and those failed miserably. So I replaced them with plumbers strap, works perfect.

193653

I have a cable block on order from Summit. Once that comes in, I’ll be able to tension the cables and hook the system up to my power supply and test.

193654

Since my in-laws came over for Christmas Eve, I spent some time in the garage mocking up the base mount for the ABS. It’s very solid with just Clecos holding it together, and should work out just fine. I tried to leave enough room for the Breeze battery box. From pics I’ve seen from others, I should be good with this setup.

193655

[Mbufford]

Not sure why this one ended up upside down on the previous post. But here it is right side up.


193658

[Mbufford]

More work on the ABS mount today. Next, I need to disassemble, paint, and reassemble. Though, I won’t likely have much progress over the next several weeks because of work.

193694193693193695193696

[Mbufford]

I spent the last several days down with the flu. But I was able to get the ABs mount painted last night, and installed today.

193869

[Justin]

Great work. I think it's cool that you are adding in a touch of modern comforts.

[Mbufford]

Minor update: I got the power steering rack installed, and learned the hard way that if you didn’t install the steering arms correctly, then you’ll have to disassemble your front suspension to fix it. So, that sucked. But, everything is right now.

I also reworked my E-Stopp mount. I wanted to use plate for mounting so it would be easier to access for maintenance and cable adjustments. The plate flexed when I operated the brake though, so that had to change. I went with a piece of 4x1 channel. I’ll still be able to access the setup from the bottom without much trouble, but this fixed the flex issue. 194005194006

[nashuanuke]

I got the power steering rack installed, and learned the hard way that if you didn’t install the steering arms correctly, then you’ll have to disassemble your front suspension to fix it. So, that sucked. But, everything is right now. 194005194006

Yeah, I did that too. Thankfully my hub nuts weren't fully torqued yet, it was easier to just take the hubs off.

[Mbufford]

Got the ABS plumbed to all four wheels. Unfortunately, I’m still waiting on my Whitby brake boost kit and my Forte hydro clutch kit, so I had to leave the 1/4” supply lines dangling until those come in and I get my foot box together. I’ll find some other things to work on while I wait.

194197194198

[Mbufford]

Productive weekend overall. I got my fuel tank in today, along with my pump (Aeromotive Stealth 18638). From what I’ve read from others, I was one of the lucky ones for whom the tank when right in and no trips to ACE were necessary.
194218

I have my black braided 3/8” lines and plenty of AN6 fittings. But, I’m waiting on my fuel filter assembly to show up before I run lines—I’ll be using a screw-on cartridge filter (Trick Flow TFS-23006). My pressure regulator is also en route (Aeromotive 13129) I went ahead and installed the passenger foot box too, since the fuel lines will mount to the side of it on the way to the firewall. 194219194220

[Mbufford]

Not much of an update, since I’m waiting on parts to show up for all three of the projects I have ongoing with the built. But, I was able to run by metal supermarket and get a chunk of 2x4x1/4” aluminum angle. So I fabbed up my reservoir bracket. I’ll get it painted and ready to mount. But, I’ll wait until I’ve done the cutting and moving things for the Whitby brake booster kit before I permanently mount the reservoir.

194336194337194338

[utchaz]

Found your thread, neighbor! Looks like you're making great progress and way ahead of me. Keep it up!

[Mbufford]

A simultaneous progress of projects on the build, since they’re somewhat interrelated.

I got the Whitby brake booster mod installed, along with the foot box and steering linkage. I also got my Scott’s reservoir mounted with 3/16 rivnuts in the 3/4 tube. I still have some plumbing to figure out, which I’m working on this evening.

194668194669

[Mbufford]

A little more progress this weekend, not much though.

I got my boosted ABS brake system fully plumbed and bled.

194751

Like so many others, from what I’ve seen on the forums, I’m not thrilled with the position of the Whitby pedal. When bleeding, it was hitting the front of the foot box before the crossmember behind the pedal arm could stop the travel. And it sits way low with an odd angle.

194752

So there will be some modification to that in the future—not sure whether I want to torch and bend it, cut and reweld it, or modify the Wilwood pedal for use with the system. I’ll likely start with the Wilwood pedal mod first and see how I like it, since the pedal is in my unused parts bin anyway.

I also got the Forte QR windshield brackets installed, along with my Aeromotive Fuel filter. I still can’t finish the fuel system though, because some of the fittings are on back order with Summit.

194758194759

Once I get the pedal situation squared away, I guess I’ll move on to the wiring harness next, which should fill up a good amount of time while I’m waiting on the fuel fittings. I also need to figure out how I’m going to do the foot box vent fans.

[Mbufford]

I had a little time to tinker in the garage this evening before the wife got home. I originally planned on just trying to mock up some options for the Wilwood pedal mod. But, I ended up liking the first thing I came up with, so I’m keeping it. I will, however keep the Whitby pedal just in case this setup fails for some reason.

Since I was just tinkering, I didn’t take any in-process pictures. But basically, I just took a chunk of 5/8 steel rod I had sitting around (same diameter as the eye on the booster pushrod), drilled and tapped through it, drilled the pedal after figuring out where it should go, and bolted it on with a grade-8 5/16 bolt. I put it in the pedal box, and as soon as I hooked the eye on it, I decided to keep it like that. So, I removed it, drilled a hole for a cotter pin, and reinstalled.

Much better now!

194799194800

[toadster]

I had a little time to tinker in the garage this evening before the wife got home. I originally planned on just trying to mock up some options for the Wilwood pedal mod. But, I ended up liking the first thing I came up with, so I’m keeping it. I will, however keep the Whitby pedal just in case this setup fails for some reason.

Since I was just tinkering, I didn’t take any in-process pictures. But basically, I just took a chunk of 5/8 steel rod I had sitting around (same diameter as the eye on the booster pushrod), drilled and tapped through it, drilled the pedal after figuring out where it should go, and bolted it on with a grade-8 5/16 bolt. I put it in the pedal box, and as soon as I hooked the eye on it, I decided to keep it like that. So, I removed it, drilled a hole for a cotter pin, and reinstalled.

Much better now!

194799194800

fantastic idea on the pedal - you should send this to whitby, maybe they'll take your idea so folks don't run into this anymore - it blows my mind how far back that pedal sits, it's just unsafe in stock form

[Mbufford]

End of weekend update:

Over the last couple of weeks I haven’t had much time on the car. But I did manage to get the wiring harness mostly in place. I did have a fairly productive weekend with the wife out of town and rain all weekend.

1st—the ABS module mount I made was originally painted with VHT Roll Bar and Chassis paint. After my bleeding episode, it got some brake fluid on it and ruined the paint. So I painstakingly and carefully drilled the rivets and removed the mount from below. Over the past week, I ordered the Eastwood powder coating gun and materials. So, I stripped and coated the mount, and reinstalled. Much better now! 195308

From there, I moved on to installing the ABS wiring. As a side note, I wanted to have an ABS warning indicator in case something goes wrong with the system in the future. I searched and searched, and hadn’t found anyone who’d pulled this off. So, I started downloading Ford schematics and figured out that the only way to have an ABS light with the 2007-09 Mustang systems is to have the instrument cluster module. So, I went to a junk yard and pulled the IC from a 2008. I disassembled the cluster, chunked all the housing pieces, removed all the needles and other parts that stand off from the circuit board, removed the ABS warning LED and soldered on lead wires to the terminals. I wrapped the whole thing in tape to avoid any off-chance shorting potential. 195309

Then I got some sheet aluminum and built a box for it. 195310

I hadn’t put much thought into where I would locate the module until after I built and painted the box. After dancing around the car for a while, I realized that it’s almost perfect size to act as a dash support on the passenger side. So, that’s where it went. 195311195312195313

Having everything else roughly wired in for the system, I figured now would be a good time to test the system before wrapping and securing the wire harness I put together for the system. So I made some temporary connections with different wires to simulate the car with the ignition on, hooked up to Forscan, and ran all my checks. I’m happy to report that everything is normal, just as it was when I had it set up on my test bench. I was also able to verify that all 4 wheel speed sensors are functioning by manually rotating the brake rotors and watching the Forscan monitor. And the ABS light works perfectly—if I disconnect one of the power wires or a wheel sensor, the light comes on and disappears when I remedy the problem. So, I went forward with finalizing the wiring harness and clamping it all down. 195314

I’m still waiting on back ordered fittings before I can run my fuel lines. But I did get some tandem hose clamps off amazon a couple weeks ago. Only problem is that they’re shiny metal. And I want them to have the black rubber like the clamps that came with the kit. So, I played around with some heat shrink, and they turned out pretty good. 195315

[F500guy]

Big undertaking for the ABS system. I have been following along just for my knowledge.

[Mbufford]

I’ve been really bad about not posting updates. So, this will cover everything I’ve done in the last month. So, I’m going to have to do a few posts to catch up, since we’re limited to 10 pictures per post.

I finished all of the electrical work, except for engine wiring (I don’t have my coyote, computer, and harness yet) and gauges (I’ve ordered a waterfall bubinga veneer for the dash, and will do all the gauges after that’s finished). As part of this work, I set everything up to be controlled by relays and switched by billet buttons.

196664196665196666

I also set up some blue LEDs for my courtesy lights under the dash, as well as some in the engine bay and another under the trunk. I mounted a couple of the lights on the center dash mount I made, and also added a USB multi-port, and a dimmer knob for the dash lights. I also set up my battery disconnect. (Edit: I just realized this picture is upside down, which could be very confusing! This is the center dash support and the disconnect is on the panel in front of the tunnel)

196667

I also set up a hidden switch to disable starting the car. Though I have the battery disco, I wanted a security measure like this so I don’t have to routinely switch off the disconnect every time I go anywhere.

196668

I set up and tested my ie427 turn signal, which fits and works great. I wasn’t a big fan of the bare aluminum parts, so I powder coated them. Looks much better.

196669

[Mbufford]

I finally got my fuel lines done. After getting tired of waiting for the back-ordered fittings to come in, I cancelled the order gathered the hose and fittings I did receive, and drove off to Summit Racing. I was able to return the parts and walk out with everything I needed. I had previously installed my fuel regulator, pump, and filter. So, this was just a matter of building the lines and connecting them. I had already ordered some tandem line clamps, so I powder coated them and got everything installed this weekend.

196674196675196677196678196679


I capped the outlet on the fuel regulator and engaged the pump to leak-test the system. I count myself lucky that I got no leaks the first time around!

[Mbufford]

I also set up the foot box vent systems. They’re operated by a single button and a dpdt relay for each side. Activating the switch engages the fan and the electric valve to open, and turning the switch off engages the valve close. Surprising how much air these move.

196680196681196682196683

I also got around to doing some sheet metal work today, notably getting the passenger side floor in, and got a patch put together to close off the ebrake hole.

[OB6]

Looking good Matt!!

[Mbufford]

This is another long-overdue post. Most of this is essentially my running notes from when I was figuring out the ABS before I got my kit. I’ve also added some updates where appropriate.

As I plan my soon-to-start build, I’ve been trying to plan as carefully as possible. I’ve identified certain thing I absolutely will modify from the kit. Among those things is adding ABS and traction control. So, my education starts. I’ve spent many hours researching the options. And I’ve settled on a build with the late 2000s ABS unit, alongside a RaceTCS, using the same sensors.

RaceTCS just released the V3. I looked around and there is really not any info available about the new unit. the best part of the V2, which they’re still offering, is that you can connect it to a laptop to run the programming. There’s no info about the V3, other than what’s on their website, and nothing indicates you can plug a usb into it. I messaged them asking if you can interface a laptop with the V3.

RaceTCS responded to my message, and apparently, the V3 does exactly the same thing as V2, and has a usb cord integrated into the wiring harness. But, the V3 box is sealed, so it can be mounted in locations like under the hood. With my intended mounting spot, this isn’t needed. But, see the updated notes below re: using V3 with the Coyote.

The 2015 IRS speed sensors, BRAB406, work alongside the 2007-09 front sensors, BRAB291, with the 2008 GT500 HCU in John George’s setup. There have been several posts showing this setup working across the forums, and responses asking about why the system will take the 50-T front signal along with the 80-T rear signal and operate okay, with no real explanations. I suspect this happens because the ABS module logic is just looking for the presence of a signal, a 1 or a 0, as opposed to differential signals (i.e. 40khz vs 80khz) like a traction control does. Granted, this is purely speculation. But John’s setup works, and this is the only rational reason I can think of.

I’d been keeping an eye on eBay for the 2007-2009 GT500 ABS module and HCU for some time because I’ve read they’re getting hard to find in good condition. I ran across one that looks like the car barely had any miles before it was wrecked. Seller told me the donor car had 87k on it. The wiring harness was still with it too—big score from what I’ve read. Others who had to order a harness had to use a different part number and move some wires. With this, I should be able to just splice and move on the next part. Got the set for $150 shipped, which seems a good deal from the condition and price I’ve seen on similar units. The top shell of the connector is cracked at the neck, but I taped it up and it works. If I run across one at a salvage yard, I’ll replace it. But it’s nothing I’ll lose sleep over. (Update: I found one at a salvage yard).

Since I want to also add the RaceTCS system, I may need the front and rear reluctor rings to be the same number of teeth-because traction controllers generally need equal inputs to measure against one another. If I were just planning to do the ABS, then I wouldn’t need to worry about modifying the rear setup. But, running both systems parallel off the same sensors, should work—I’ve seen where others have done similar things.

Since the BRAB291 front sensors work with this HCU, there’s no reason to think the BRAB290 rear sensors wouldn’t work as well. So, the only problem is getting 50-T reluctor rings for the rear to match up with the 50-T rings that come on the FFR front axle. I’ve found posts showing the rings on the cv stubs, and the sensors mounted on the pumpkin.

Seems easy enough—until I try finding the rings. I found some posts out there indicating the rings from T-Bird SC or the Mark VIII IRS will work.

So, I found a pair of takeoff MK VIII stubs with rings. It was $50 shipped for the set, so I figured why not. Assuming I can get the rings off without damaging them, they should fit on the FFR stubs—if I end up going that route.

I found in the RaceTCS V3 manual, that you can change the ring tooth count for each wheel. So, as long as the BRAB406 sensor will work with the TCS unit, I shouldn’t need to mess with rings at all. I believe the 406 is a VR sensor (as opposed to a 3-wire hall sensor) so it should work. I ordered the sensors and will need to bench test against abs and the tcs before installing both. Of course, I’ll need to get the RaceTCS module to do that…

I got the abs unit all wired up for bench testing, using the schematics provided here: https://trackmustangsonline.com/threads/how-to-install-gt500-fr500-abs-modules-on-2004-and-older-mustangs.17323/

196684

I have the Forscan cable and software, but I need a 2005-2009 Mustang profile before I can connect to the unit for testing. I’ve asked for help on the Mustang forum and from Forscan support.

I was able to get a Mustang profile from Forscan support, which they asked me not to share with anyone because it was a customer-submitted profile and has his VIN. Though, the profile appears to be for a V6 Mustang—why would anyone buy such a thing!? If I run into any problems with testing once it’s fully set up, I’ll just go “test drive” a 2007-2008 GT500 and plug in to “make sure there’s no codes” and get the profile. plus, I’d get to play with a GT500 for a few minutes.

With the profile issue, I think I’ll just find a 2009 GT for sale and do the test drive profile capture. I’m also considering picking up a used instrument cluster to see if I can turn it into a useable module for the cobra to give me the abs warning light. From what my research has shown, that is the only way to get a warning light on this version of ABS because it is operated as a can bus command from the ABS to the instrument cluster.

Updates: I did go test drive a 2008 GT500 for the profile, which worked just fine. Also, as previously mentioned in another post, I did get the instrument cluster. I removed everything from it, and soldered some lead wires to the ABS light terminals, and it tested perfectly when hooked up to my new ABS warning LED (If I disconnect a sensor or interrupt any of the various power inputs, the light comes on). I still don’t have the RaceTCS because I still don’t have my engine, and, by the looks of it, I’ll end up having to go with a gen 4 Coyote. Since they haven’t tested and verified functionality on the gen4 yet, I’ll hold off on ordering that unit until they have verified that it will work. I did go ahead and run a cable spliced into the sensor wires, and I have power and ground available near where the unit will be mounted. So, I can drop it in at anytime without any difficulty, even after the build is complete.

[Mbufford]

Looking good Matt!!

Thanks. I’m getting dangerously close to not having much left that I can accomplish without my power train. With the coyote limbo happening now, and my lack of funds to buy now, I’m thinking I’ll drop the body on and start on the body work while I save up for the power train.

[egchewy79]

good work. Impressive wiring display.
keep it up!

[Mike.Bray]

Very impressive work Matt!

[gburchett]

You’re doing some amazing work!! Can’t wait to see the finished car. You’re not too far from me. I live in Whitesboro. My plan or hope, is to do the build school and place an order early next year.

[Mbufford]

You’re doing some amazing work!! Can’t wait to see the finished car. You’re not too far from me. I live in Whitesboro. My plan or hope, is to do the build school and place an order early next year.

Thank you, and welcome to the fold. We have a great network of local builders in DFW. While you’re waiting, and presumably saving, to make your order.

I’d suggest you take the time between now and then to get your shop/garage ready for the build, get whatever tools are needed that you don’t already have, and work on getting a chassis dolly and body buck ready for delivery day. Once I get my wheels powder coated and get tires mounted in the next several months, I’ll be done with my dolly and would be happy to pass it along to you (I got it from one of the other local builders).

One thing I wish I had set up before I got my kit is the ability to powder coat smaller parts at home. I just got the Eastwood dual voltage gun and a largish toaster over about a month ago, and it’s been super useful. For the larger parts and panels, we have a great PC company in Dallas that is very cost effective for large quantity jobs, like all the panels at once.

[gburchett]

Thank you. Would you mind providing the PC company in Dallas? I’m making a list of extra tools to make things easy now and trying to make a list of things people have done that I want do on my build (when i get to that point).

[Mbufford]

Thank you. Would you mind providing the PC company in Dallas? I’m making a list of extra tools to make things easy now and trying to make a list of things people have done that I want do on my build (when i get to that point).

The company is Crosslink Powder Coating in Dallas. It’ll be a bit of a drive for you, but the savings is worth it—I had ALL of my panels done for $300. As for extra tools that are handy to have, the list is long and there have been some previous posts about that topic. One of the things I have, which I haven’t seen mentioned, that has been used a tremendous amount is a work bench DC power supply. I’ve used that thing to test (and troubleshoot where needed) every component and electrical system on the car before buttoning them up. In the same vein, a decent multimeter is a must. It doesn’t have to be a high-end Fluke or anything, and even an old analog style would work fine.

[gburchett]

The company is Crosslink Powder Coating in Dallas. It’ll be a bit of a drive for you, but the savings is worth it—I had ALL of my panels done for $300. As for extra tools that are handy to have, the list is long and there have been some previous posts about that topic. One of the things I have, which I haven’t seen mentioned, that has been used a tremendous amount is a work bench DC power supply. I’ve used that thing to test (and troubleshoot where needed) every component and electrical system on the car before buttoning them up. In the same vein, a decent multimeter is a must. It doesn’t have to be a high-end Fluke or anything, and even an old analog style would work fine.

What brand of power supply do you have?

Thanks,
Greg

[Mbufford]

The one I have is a Vlifree DCP5A. If I were buying it for this project, I’d get something with a higher current capacity than 5 amps. But, this one has worked—it just doesn’t have enough current to operate multiple systems at once—and it barely works the E-Stopp brake.

[Mbufford]

Made some ground this weekend, as I work toward getting the chassis ready for the body to go on. I finished up the majority of the metal—I think I have everything on that I need for the body to go on, except for the dash.

196955196954196956

Speaking of the dash, I got my veneer laid down, trimmed up, and the first sealer coat applied. I’ll have to sand it and apply another sealer coat tomorrow. The next day, I’ll start the varnish coats. I should have it ready for gauges and installation by next weekend.

196957196958

[gburchett]

Looking really good. Love the dash. What is the red electrical block you have on top of the passenger side foot box? I like how have your wiring nice and neat.

[Mbufford]

Looking really good. Love the dash. What is the red electrical block you have on top of the passenger side foot box? I like how have your wiring nice and neat.

Thank you!

The red block is just a terminal buss bar for my battery power. Instead of running multiple wires to the alternator, they all run to the bar, and I’ll just have one 4 gauge wire running to the alternator. It’s electrically the same as the standard install, it just cleans up wiring a bit. You should also be able to see in some of the other pictures that I put ACC power and ground buss bars behind the dash as well. This is for the same reason—just to make the wiring easier and cleaner.

[gburchett]

The one I have is a Vlifree DCP5A. If I were buying it for this project, I’d get something with a higher current capacity than 5 amps. But, this one has worked—it just doesn’t have enough current to operate multiple systems at once—and it barely works the E-Stopp brake.

Would a 10 amp be enough?

[Mbufford]

Would a 10 amp be enough?

Yeah, a 10-amp supply should be sufficient for most purposes—I just wouldn’t try to start the car with it! Even for applications that would draw more than 10 amps, like a heater, it will still generally function, just not to its potential.

As an example, if I dial back to 3 amps and hit the e-stopp, it will still trigger and actuate. It just won’t fully engage. At 1amp it will trigger on and barely move, but will not cycle off. Even at 5a, it doesn’t engage fully, but does enough for me to test and set the system. I spent more time than I should have playing with that, but I was curious.

[Mbufford]

Not much of an update. I bit off a bit more that I knew with varnishing my veneered dash. I had no idea how temperamental of a finish that stuff is. Long story short, I applied what was supposed to be my final coat in my “dust free” booth immediately after I set it up, and ended up with dust all over the finish. So, I sanded the next day and applied a new final coat. Apparently high humidity is a very bad thing for varnish until cured. Yesterday, I completely stripped it and started over.

On the good side of things, in collaboration with Mike Bray, we got this steering wheel emblem together and I love it. Mike designed it and had it 3d printed, and I sanded/polished/painted. 197503

[Mbufford]

Between traveling for work and all the bad weather, I haven’t had much opportunity to get much car building in.

But, I had a trial settle yesterday, and I immediately flew home. So, I had a chance to finally finish my dash.

It is a waterfall bubinga veneer, finished with multiple coats of Captain’s Varnish. Then I cut it to a satin finish with 0000 steel wool and Bowling Alley paste wax. I love how it turned out—even if it was a giant PITA to do. I’ll be doing the trans tunnel to match, but not anytime soon. I’ll be putting the body on tomorrow so I can start the body work phase.

Although I mounted all the gauges and switches, I didn’t wire the gauges yet. Since nobody has done a Gen4 Coyote yet, I’ll wait until I have mine before I do anymore wiring—just to be safe.

198999199000

[Mbufford]

Ready to start the “fun” part. Got the wheel wells and dash lip trimmed. I cut out the exhaust and louvre openings, and got the body on (with my wife’s help), centered the body per the manual, and parked it while I’m out of town for the next week. By time I get back, my wax & grease remover and scotchbrites should be here. Then time for some DA action. 199049199050199051

[Railroad]

You have created quite the challenge to make the rest of the car look as classy as that dash. I really like the choice of wood and it looks great.

[Mbufford]

Been a while since I’ve updated the build. Things have been moving slowly in the horrendous Texas heat this summer. There have also been some delays due to stupid things like my job and a knee surgery. But back on track now! I’ve been in bodywork mode for some time now, with little chance of being done with it anytime soon because I’ve only averaged about 4-5 hours a week in the garage because it’s been mornings only.

I’ve finished with the filler on the seams, flipped the body upside down and did all the bottom areas, I really hated the look and feel of the wheel wells with the molding lip trimmed off: thickness varied all around and I didn’t want the cut lip exposed. So I took the time to fill in the voids to give the wells a more consistent feel and appearance. It’s not something most people would ever notice. But, I would. I’m really happy with how it turned out.

Once I wrapped that part up, I sprayed the Raptor bedliner (a regular case off Amazon with 4 bottles is plenty). I kept a couple inches from the edges, as I recalled a Kleiner comment about this. Next I’ll get the body mounted in the right place and secured, and start working on the doors and trunk. Good will come last since it’s going to be the most work with glassing in the custom scoop setup.

*edit: trying to get the pictures to post, but I’m having trouble with that for some reason.**for some reason, they wouldn’t upload to this post, but would for a new one…

[Mbufford]

203127203124203125203126203123

[Mbufford]

203151203152203153203154

[Mbufford]

Body work is boring, so I’m not doing much by way of pictures and updates. But, today, I started working on the custom hood scoop install.

I got the scoop from Shell Valley. For the price I paid, you’d think it would be ready to install with little to no trimming. But the cuts on the front were uneven—about 3/4 difference between left and right side. So I did a lot of careful measuring and corrected this before moving forward. But, trimming it up myself gave me the opportunity to reshape the front of it to match the fish-mouth profile of the grill opening.

203733

Then there was measuring and cutting the hood. This SV scoop is a bit different dimensions than the FFR supplied one, so the instructions were useless, and I had to figure it out. This was probably the one part of the build I was nervous about screwing up, since I’ve not done something like it before. But all went well, and I didn’t end up frisbeeing the hood down the alleyway.

203735

Then came routing out the bedding area. Quick fact about me: I’m terrified of routers ever since, about 15 years ago, I had a RotoZip jump out of a slab of Hardy Board and open up my wrist along the tracks… iykyk. With healthy respect in hand, my little Ryobi battery powered router with the shop vac hooked up handled the bedding area with little difficulty or mess.

203740

Then I centered up the scoop with my reference lines, drilled some holes and cleco’d it in place, so that I have easy reference point when glassing it in, and the clamping from the cleco’s until it cures.

203741

I ordered some HSRF off Amazon, for deliver on Monday. But then a buddy offered up a free unused can—so I’ll be picking that up in the morning and glassing this thing in later in the day. I won’t be doing anymore process pics of this part after today. But, my general plan is to use HSRF to bed the scoop into the hood. Then come back with a bit more of it to build the underside transitions and pack the open hood seams. Then, of course, lots of sanding and Rage Gold to hopefully make it look seamless like it came that way.

I’m excited to see how it comes out!

203742

[OB6]

Looks great! I really like the look of the glassed-in scoops.

[Mbufford]

Looks great! I really like the look of the glassed-in scoops.

Thanks! And, me too. I just don’t get why FFR went with ABS instead of fiberglass. It would be nice to have the option to glass in the scoop that comes with the kit. But, I like that it gave me the opportunity to make another small change that will make my car stand out in a subtle way.

[Mbufford]

I know I said I wouldn’t take any more in-process pics—but this is the result by the end of the day. It still needs another layer or two of Rage before I go over it with the Platinum Plus. But I’m really happy with how it’s turnings out. The bottom isn’t ready for public eyes, but my plan is to make it looks just as nice and seamless as the topside. 203838203839

[Mbufford]

Just a little after work powder coating in the garage because I had the time.

Got the hood and trunk latches done—though I’m thinking I may install a cable-pull trunk latch (still on the fence).

I had to make my RT gas pedal match the other pedals, of course. And I went ahead and sprayed my cheap Amazon cupholders ($10 for the pair).

There’s going to be a lot more black by time I’m done. I’m so glad I set myself up with the Eastwood PC gun—it would just be a pain in the butt to constantly catalogue everything that would need to be sent out for coating—this way, it’s only the large pieces I have to send out.

204001204000203999

[Mbufford]

I finished the body work and got the body back on the ceiling a couple weeks ago. THANK GOD!! I was getting so tired of doing body work. After all the rage gold, I sprayed the slick sand and blocked with Dura Gold’s powder guide coat, and it is SO much better than spraying a guide coat. It clearly highlighted every pinhole in the slicksand, which I then filled with 3M’s platinum plus glaze. Videos on my instagram, linked in my sig.
212335212336212337

[Mbufford]

212338

[Mbufford]

I decided to go with the Holley Terminator-X instead of the Ford ECU. They had a really good sale going on last fall, so I jumped on it with 30% off. Still ended up costing more than the Ford computer, but it has so much more functionality.

Unfortunately, I designed the circuitry modifications and pre-wired the car for the Ford ECU before I put the body back on for that phase. So, I had to open up my harness and bundles to redo some things to make ready for the terminator.

NOTE to those who plan to change any wiring on the car—choose your computer and commit before making any changes. PITA to revise my starter circuit, but all is well now.

Integrating the Holley harness didn’t take much fuss. The usual orange wire splice on the pump relay, connect to the purple tach feed, and used the orange EFI/Coil wire that remained in the panel for my ACC voltage (red/white wire in Holley harness)—just leave the fuse in place and the wire is still hot even though the buss end was clipped to control the pump relay.

The harness itself is just tedious as all hell. So many damn sensors and connections on the coyote that I’m starting to think it has sensors for its sensors. Just.so.many.wires!

212339212340212341212342

Only think I haven’t figure out is, how the hell I get a feed for a check engine light. Guessing I’ll have to do something with one of the empty outputs. So, that’s one of my next projects. I’ll give it a few hours of my own effort before I call Holley tech support—they’re very helpful, but I refuse to call unless I’ve tried to figure things out myself.

I talked to Promar this week and learned my engine is done being built, and they’re just waiting for the gasket kits from Ford before they’re ready to ship it. I would prefer they go ahead and ship separately because I have a dining room full of engine parts for the build, and while the wife has been patient with me, I feel that’s wearing thin. 212339212340212341212342

[Mbufford]

Finally got my engine built: gen 2 Coyote 5.0. Started as a long block from Promar Engines—which provided excellent service—and added various parts from Ford, Summit, LMR, and Rockauto to make it complete. Between work, injuring my hand in a completely unrelated incident, and waiting for parts to be delivered as I realize the need for them, this has taken far longer than it should. I’m still waiting on a second PCV valve that I ordered so I can slap the second LMR breather, which looks way better than all the vacuum hoses running around. As it stands, the only vacuum line I should have to run is to the brake booster.

I indexed my bell housing today, and it’s off by a good amount. I’ve got my offset pins on order from Summit. So, I won’t be able to mate the trans to the block until those come in. But, in the mean time, I got my flywheel and clutch mounted. And I got the bell housing, throw out, forks, and the Forte hydraulic clutch slave mounted. Once the pins show up—and I actually have some garage time—I’ll be able to get these two mated and start preparing to drop it in the chassis.

Videos and extra images on my Instagram, linked below.

214047

[OB6]

Looks great Matt, congrats on getting to this point. I think your alternator is feeling a little left out. :)

[Mike.Bray]

That alternator looks like the white sheep in the coyote family.

[Nigel Allen]

That 'blacked out' engine looks amazing. Nice job!

[Mbufford]

Haha! I do have to take it off before dropping the engine in… so there’s time!

[Mbufford]

Another update before I have to disappear for a while for a trial.

I had to index my bell housing with .007” dowels because it was off .019”, which was easy once I got the old ones out. For that, the bread trick worked really well—I was doubtful!214261

once I got past that part, everything else went together nice and easy. I installed my Forte clutch slave kit and starter. Just about ready to drop in… but I have to finish wiring my dash and finish figuring out my sensor integration with the Terminator X computer. Good times!
214262214263214264

[Mbufford]

Another small update. Got my dash wired and fully installed, finally! Ran through the systems checks and everything is operational, though my power supply can’t keep up with the demand (it only give me 5 amps), so I get an ABS light every time I turn anything on. But, I’m just about ready to drop the engine in, so I’m close to buying a battery anyway.

214315214316214317

[Mike.Bray]

You might find this thread interesting. Next time I'm going to Wal Mart for a battery!

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?51419-Group-51-Battery-Recommendation

[Mbufford]

You might find this thread interesting. Next time I'm going to Wal Mart for a battery!

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?51419-Group-51-Battery-Recommendation

Interesting indeed! I’ve historically been a fan of Duralast for my cars, motorcycles, campers, atv’s, etc., but if it’s just as good and saves a few bucks, I’ll give Walmart a go!

[Mbufford]

Probably my last update for a while, unless the trial I have coming up settles. But, I got the coyote shoehorned into the car. When people say it’s a tight fit, there is absolutely zero hyperbole to that statement—it was a PITA to get in there. I banged up a few plastic sensor heads, but shouldn’t have to replace anything.

I did make the mistake of prefilling the TKX with fluid, only to have to let half of it drain out when I had to pull the shifter quadrant off to squeeze the thing in there. Very much a square peg in a round hole. 214492214493

[Mbufford]

Well, the trial I was supposed to fly out for today got continued to August, so I got to have garage time this weekend.

I spent most of my time fixing things I screwed up when dropping the powertrain in—if I can help it, I’d like to avoid ever removing this engine from the car…

But today, I got to make some progress. I did most of the Terminator X wiring hooked up—and discovered I am still missing some additional sensors that have now been ordered. I also got my Costco battery purchased and installed, finalized wiring main power and grounding, wired up the starter and alternator, installed the horns, and threw the Gen1 coyote cover on top of my Gen 2 that has a modified Gen 3 manifold.

I’ll start working on the radiator next weekend. I have the breeze mounts and shroud, and I need to get the shroud powder coated since I don’t have an oven big enough for it. So, I’ll install without the shroud and do the revisions once it’s coated.

214827214828214829

[Mbufford]

Yesterday was the big day—first start.

But it didn’t. Ugh.

I’ve now learned there is supposed to be a reluctor ring on the crank… a $40 part. So, that’s not fun.

[Mbufford]

Big day today—first go-kart completed!

After dropping the trans to get the reluctor on the crank, she fired right up. I’m having an issue with the Terminator X not activating the radiator fan, so I need to figure that out. But, after setting the alignment with some borrowed tools, I decided to take it for a quick spin around the block. She’s running a bit rough, but this was the Terminator’s first opportunity to start doing its learning so it can self-tune—that’ll just take some time and miles for it to do its thing.

But, most importantly, test ride was a success, with no leaks from any of the fluid systems. Just got to get this fan issue sorted so I can run it for longer.
https://www.instagram.com/reel/DLyBFEbJF8h/?igsh=MTVrb3Nybzhjejl4eA==

[F500guy]

Very Nice, so fun on the first outing!