View Full Version : Jeff's LS Build - Drive By Wire Pedal
Hello all,
I received a call from Stewart regarding delivery, so it seems like a prime time to start a build thread. First of all I want to say a HUGE thanks to all of you that have done a build thread. I have learned something from EVERY one that I have looked at. This forum is a tremendous resource, and all of you deserve the credit. You have inspired me to start this lifelong dream.
I seriously doubt I will be plowing any new ground with either my build, or the way I document it. I will endeavor to keep this as up to date as time allows. My main target audience will be family and friends that I hope will enjoy following along. I have a son that lives many miles away that I hope will enjoy seeing what his old man is up to.
A brief bio: for most of my career I have been an Industrial Controls Engineer. I design and program the power and control systems that make industrial automation run. I have worked on tiny systems with a couple of relays, up to large systems with thousands of I/O points and huge control networks. I have experience with robots, vision, systems, and advanced motion control systems.
Now for the car. Highlights of my order to Factory Five:
Complete kit
IRS
Powder Coated Frame
Hydraulic Clutch
LS mounts and exhaust system
Power Steering
18" Wheels
Gauge Credit (Will be doing my own thing here)
Seat Credit (Will be using UltraShield seats)
Blank Dash
I'm planning on using a variety of items from the good folks at Breeze.
I hope that the hole that the passing of Russ Thompson left will be soon filled, as I would like to use some of the items he manufactured.
I'm planning on a Chevrolet Performance LS3 engine in front of a Tremec TKX. I've had a couple conversations with Mike Forte and will likely be reaching out to him when the time comes for the transmission and associated clutch pieces, plus his hydraulic clutch slave cylinder.
I know the LS is a controversial choice among some. I have several reasons why, not limited to light weight, compact dimensions and good reliability.
So, thanks to all that have read this far. I hope that this will be an entertaining read, if nothing else for all of my mistakes!:D
The over-thought, over-engineered, over-built, over-weight body buck and storage shelf:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=189109&d=1692561726
The more reasonable frame cart:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=189110&d=1692561726
F500guy
08-20-2023, 03:43 PM
Looks good Jeff, off to a great start! I to did some automation programing, I used to work in facilities and went to a couple training classes and did a lot of Code trouble shooting with our regular staff that did the heavy lifting. Amazing what we could do just sitting at our desk for the facility that spread over a 500 acres with 6 fabs and various labs.
460.465USMC
08-26-2023, 06:07 PM
Welcome aboard, Jeff! Sounds like your delivery is imminent. Let the fun begin! I think your professional background will serve you well throughout your build. Looking forward to seeing your delivery pictures.
At Factory Five, prepped for shipping. The big truck will be here this afternoon.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=189410&d=1693157610
Jeff Kleiner
08-27-2023, 01:24 PM
Congrats man! David and I talked yesterday and this morning he forwarded me the photos and message from Nicole. Exciting time for you guys :cool:
Jeff
cv2065
08-27-2023, 01:42 PM
Welcome Jeff! I'll be a few weeks behind you. Look forward to your build!
Welcome aboard, Jeff! Sounds like your delivery is imminent. Let the fun begin! I think your professional background will serve you well throughout your build. Looking forward to seeing your delivery pictures.
Thanks! I have been very blessed to work with some great craftsman. They have set an example for me in running tubing and conduit, and extremely organized and neat wiring. I hope I can do nearly as good a job as I have seen.
Congrats man! David and I talked yesterday and this morning he forwarded me the photos and message from Nicole. Exciting time for you guys :cool:
Jeff
Thanks Jeff!
Welcome Jeff! I'll be a few weeks behind you. Look forward to your build!
Thanks! I look forward to seeing your build, the changes you make between #1 and #2. Should be very interesting!
Sunday was Delivery Day! Mark with Stewart arrived in the afternoon. He did a great job - fast, friendly efficient.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=189492&d=1693275694
The Stewart trailer is quite a setup
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=189489&d=1693275694
On the hook
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=189491&d=1693275694
In the garage, on the cart. Lots of boxes!
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=189490&d=1693275694
Completed inventory today (Monday). 7 items on the POL list.
The 7/8 left hand jam nuts for the IRS have the wrong thread pitch - I think they are coarse thread instead of fine.
I will reach out to the FFR folks to get resolution.
F500guy
08-29-2023, 06:52 AM
Jeff,
If that IRS jam nut is for the toe link, check the past threads because I believe it should be right hand Jam nut.
Lance
Straightened out the garage today. Organized boxes in some sense of sequence. Shuffled some to the basement where they will reside until needed.
Removed the front and rear quick jack bolts from the body, plus the 2 little self-tappers from under the sides. Got the hood, trunk lid, and doors off in preparation for body removal tomorrow.
Also went fishing this morning. A beautiful day!
Jeff,
If that IRS jam nut is for the toe link, check the past threads because I believe it should be right hand Jam nut.
Lance
This is the jam nut for the upper rear control arm. Jams the rod end against the adjuster bung. It's listed as a left hand thread, looks like a coarse thread, but the rod end is fine pitch.
Now you have me wondering.... I will take another look.
Took another look at those control arm jam nuts. I "cried wolf" prematurely. A little dirt, some burrs, and a very tight fit between the male/female thread made for a tough engagement. I cleaned the threads on the rod end, brushed out the nut and slowly (by hand) worked the nuts onto the rod end. Thanks to Lance for getting me to take another look!
I started putting together some sub-assemblies, as my body removal assistants were tied up until this evening. The upper control arms seemed like a good starting point. I gathered the upper ball joints and the control arms. I unboxed the ball joints and warily started threading in the first one. It went in about 1/2 turn and came to a hard stop. I backed it out and tried it in the other UCA. Same result. Grabbed the other ball joint and started it in. Got in about 2 plus turns and it started getting tight. Clamped it in the vise, made about a quarter turn and it seized. Started unscrewing it, and it seized again. I applied a little penetrating oil, worked it back and forth, and was luckily able to slowly remove it.I got really lucky. Grabbed the Dremel and abrasive wheels. Removed all of the powder coat on both of the ball joints and from the threads inside the UCA. Was then able to thread the ball joints in by hand, no problem. Started adjusting the arms to the initial alignment spec and ran out of adjustment on the rear side. Disassembled, trimmed the adjusters, trimmed the links, and reassembled. Success! Disassembled again, applied loctite to the ball joints, a little anti-sieze to the threads, and reassembled. Anti-Sieze everywhere. This stuff is evil!
My adjuster trim jig. Crude but effective. Worked good.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=189573&d=1693434208
Trimmed / Untrimmed
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=189574&d=1693434208
Assembled, ready to install and torque fasteners.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=189575&d=1693434208
Jeff Kleiner
08-30-2023, 06:41 PM
Jeff,
Using the center of the grease zerks as a reference if you set them like this you’ll be real close to about .5 degree negative camber and 7-8 degrees positive caster.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=189078&d=1666032431
Jeff
egchewy79
08-31-2023, 06:50 AM
I started putting together some sub-assemblies, as my body removal assistants were tied up until this evening. The upper control arms seemed like a good starting point. I gathered the upper ball joints and the control arms. I unboxed the ball joints and warily started threading in the first one. It went in about 1/2 turn and came to a hard stop. I backed it out and tried it in the other UCA. Same result. Grabbed the other ball joint and started it in. Got in about 2 plus turns and it started getting tight. Clamped it in the vise, made about a quarter turn and it seized. Started unscrewing it, and it seized again. I applied a little penetrating oil, worked it back and forth, and was luckily able to slowly remove it.I got really lucky. Grabbed the Dremel and abrasive wheels. Removed all of the powder coat on both of the ball joints and from the threads inside the UCA. Was then able to thread the ball joints in by hand, no problem. Started adjusting the arms to the initial alignment spec and ran out of adjustment on the rear side. Disassembled, trimmed the adjusters, trimmed the links, and reassembled. Success! Disassembled again, applied loctite to the ball joints, a little anti-sieze to the threads, and reassembled. Anti-Sieze everywhere. This stuff is evil!
the UCA ball joints threw me for a loop as well when I was assembling them. just the first of many frustrations during this build, but totally worth it.
Jeff,
Using the center of the grease zerks as a reference if you set them like this you’ll be real close to about .5 degree negative camber and 7-8 degrees positive caster.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=189078&d=1666032431
Jeff
Exactly the picture I was looking for! I set them to the dimensions in the manual, I will double check the setup.
Thanks!
So the word of the day is CLEAN THE THREADS! Today I decided to assemble the components of the rear suspension. When I removed the lower control arm from the paper a big wad of tapping chips fell out of the threaded end.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=189597&d=1693536318
This prompted examining the tapped holes in the LCA and the toe link. Very crusty, lotsa chips and powder coat residue.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=189598&d=1693536318
An ample bath of brake clean, brushing, and "chasing" the threads with the point of a scribe eradicated the debris. Inserted the adjuster bungs with a bit of anti-sieze, added the rod ends, and wrapped them back up in the packing paper until they are needed.
Next up coil-over assemblies. I unboxed all of the parts and went looking for the adjusting screw on the Koni shocks. Looks like it has been deleted. Anyone else seen this? Is it something new?
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=189603&d=1693536318
Got all 4 put together, wrapped them up, and stashed in a box.
The body removal assistants arrived this evening and we got the body off the frame, on the buck, and safely hoisted to it's resting place.
Jeff Kleiner
09-01-2023, 04:10 AM
Jeff,
These are Koni 30 Series. There is not an adjusting “screw”. The rebound adjustment is made by pushing down firmly on that rounded button and then rotating the shaft clockwise or counterclockwise. You’ll feel it click through the detents as you do so. When you get to the setting position you want release pressure from the button and it’ll pop back up (you may need to twist the shaft back and forth a couple of degrees for it to lock in). With the factory spring rates I set rebound to the softest setting. There is no compression adjustment.
https://www.koni-na.com/en-US/NorthAmerica/Technology/Adjustment-Guides/mono/
Jeff
Jeff,
These are Koni 30 Series. There is not an adjusting “screw”. The rebound adjustment is made by pushing down firmly on that rounded button and then rotating the shaft clockwise or counterclockwise. You’ll feel it click through the detents as you do so. When you get to the setting position you want release pressure from the button and it’ll pop back up (you may need to twist the shaft back and forth a couple of degrees for it to lock in). With the factory spring rates I set rebound to the softest setting. There is no compression adjustment.
https://www.koni-na.com/en-US/NorthAmerica/Technology/Adjustment-Guides/mono/
Jeff
Thanks, the info I needed. 3 were set full soft, 1 was one click off. Adjusted and assembled.
I had a few snips of time here and there this week, but was able to clear the calendar this afternoon for a bit to get done.
I located and drilled the F panels then washed-degreased-sanded-degreased both sides and applied Upol self-etching primer. The engine side was painted with silver hammertone, the wheel side with Raptor Liner.
I also drilled and inserted 1/4-20 Rivnuts for the elephant ear panels to attach.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=189863&d=1694207263
This afternoon I had the opportunity to build the front suspension.
Right side:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=189866&d=1694207263
Left Side:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=189864&d=1694207263
The suspension went together pretty smoothly, with one minor exception. The area where the UCA rear nuts go was impossible to get a socket on. The area around it was way too tight. I used a die grinder and burr to open up a little clearance.
I used the Energy Suspension grease boots on the upper ball joints. Credit to so many others that have done the same
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=189867&d=1694207263
I still need to torque the spindle nuts and install the dust caps.
When I placed the hubs I found that one hub would fit either spindle, but the other hub was picky, it only would slide on to one of the spindles. Tolerance stackup for sure.
If anyone sees something wrong please comment. Rookie mistakes happen!
Question of the day: where do these pretty M12-1.75 x 35mm 12 point fasteners go? They were in the kit with the UCA stuff, but I didn't spot anywhere mentioned in the assembly manual, nor did I find a place that they really fit.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=189865&d=1694207263
Jeff Kleiner
09-08-2023, 05:41 PM
Jeff,
Caliper brackets.
Jeff
Jeff,
Caliper brackets.
Jeff
Thanks!
Had some time this morning to get to the garage. Seemed like a good time to continue to work on the front, so I decided to go ahead and install the rack. In the box with the rack was the bag with the bushings, but no steel sleeves. Hmmm, maybe missing? Took a look at the inventory sheets for that box, not on the list for that box. Checked the forums, found that another builder had made his own when his were missing. Continued on the search, found a builder comment that his were in box 2. Yep, there they are. Makes perfect sense, right? Anyway, used a socket and extension to tap out the pre-installed bushings, tapped in the FFR supplied bushings and sleeves. The tabs on the frame were way too close together to get the rack to fit, so I used the all-thread, nuts and washers technique to open up the gap. The manual mentions installing the drivers side first, then the passengers. I never could get that to work, so went the other way with success. Installed the tie rod ends, centered the rack, made the initial 53 1/16" adjustment, and installed the tie rods into the steering arms.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=189978&d=1694481265
Got a delivery from FFR today - the first of my POL items. I now have an Assembly Manual, header gaskets, and adapter plates for the LS motor mounts.
Rear suspension comes next. Definitely not looking forward to installing that beast of a differential.
nashuanuke
09-12-2023, 07:45 AM
Looks like I'm right behind you. Congratulations, looking forward to following.
I got back to the garage today and made some progress on the rear suspension. Like many others, my "IRS Fastener Pack" had an issue. The M16 bolts that secure the front of the differential were way short. The good folks at Ace Hardware had 5/16-18 x 5.50, Grade 8 bolts, washers, and locking nuts that worked well. It does take a lot of prying, rocking, and cussing to get all of the fasteners into the differential.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=190185&d=1694996710
Once the differential install was complete, I bolted in the driveshaft adapter. The socket head capscrews were a little fat in the head to fit the counterbores, so a quick spin in the drill against a file quickly got them to fit.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=190184&d=1694996710
I moved on to the suspension assembly. Every one of the frame mounting locations were too close together together for the arms to fit. The all thread-bolts-washers easily spread them apart, making insertion easy. The upper control arms, lower control arms, and toe links all had the same issue, requiring spreading to fit over knuckle. Once adjusted, assembly went well.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=190188&d=1694996710
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=190187&d=1694996710
All fasteners were torqued, with the exception of the hub nuts. I will get them after I get the brakes on. I still need to fill the differential. None of that sweet-smelling Limited Slip Additive will be required, as this diff has a Torsen differential.
My engine arrived!
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=190423&d=1695649899
Sure makes that old engine stand look nice
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=190424&d=1695649899
Chevrolet Performance LS3, 495HP@6200, 473 ft-lbs@5000
Weight is only 415 pounds
I will need to swap out the oil pan prior to installation.
I started on the next section in the manual - firewall and footbox front panel, plus pedal box.
I installed the pedal pads full left to get the most room around the throttle pedal and drilled the holes for the brake and clutch switches.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=190431&d=1695661149
The manual recommends a 3/16" hole, which is body size for a #10-32 screw.
Do yourself a favor and open that up to 7/32" dia. plus open up the hole on the switch bracket to 7/32".
It makes installation easier.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=190432&d=1695661149
I spent a fair amount of time with a file deburring the front and rear mounting brackets. Some of the burrs on the laser cut stainless
are like razor blades. If I have to work under the dash future me will thank current me.
Got a couple small items off the list.
I wanted something besides an open hose to vent my differential, and didn't want the big OEM unit, so I came up with this:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=190485&d=1695774843
Thats a brass 5/16" barb to 1/4 NPT fitting screwed into a stainless 1/4" NPT coupler with a 1/4 NPT sintered brass muffler on the other end.
Simple, effective and cheap. Should do a good job of keeping dirt and critters out.
A 3/4" padded clamp fit pretty decent.
Secured to the frame with a 3/16 rivet. Put a washer under the head because the hole was a bit big:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=190484&d=1695774843
Then did my "Kleiner Mod". This keeps from having to drop the tank to install or remove the rear bumper.
A 7/16-14 coupler nut secured with 7/16 bolt from the back side, mounted at all 4 locations.
Thanks to Jeff Kleiner for a great idea.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=190486&d=1695774843
cc2Arider
09-27-2023, 11:47 AM
Looking good Jeff!
Craig C
Looking good Jeff!
Craig C
Thanks Craig!
It's been a few weeks since I posted an update. I started putting together the passenger side footbox, using the FFR screw holes as guidance. Alignment was terrible, i had nothing but issues. I posted some questions, and the advice I received from the group was on-target. I disassembled the footbox, ignored the screw holes and the footbox went together pretty decent. I still have some gaps that aren't s good as i had wanted, but are acceptable. Several pieces of aluminum took some serious tweaks, like the inside vertical wall. The bent angle was way off, requiring some serious adjustment. It's now all drilled and cleco'd together. I am going to get the drivers side together before I rivet it all.
While awaiting arrival of a few parts I pulled out the gas tank. Per instructions, the flange around the outside needs to be straightened where it interfaces with the frame downtubes.
Here is one spot as-shipped:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=191198&d=1697468316
My precision gas-tank flange adjusting tool:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=191199&d=1697468316
Post adjustment:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=191202&d=1697468316
After all four of the bends were straightened, then came a test fit. I balanced it on my floor jack and brought it up. A bit of interference on the passenger side front downtube:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=191201&d=1697468316
After a few whacks with the deadblow:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=191200&d=1697468316
Looks great! Gas tank returned back to box to await another day.
The looped ends of the straps are too small for the 3/8 bolts to pass through. I will enlarge them a bit when I get back to this area.
cc2Arider
10-16-2023, 11:49 AM
It's been a few weeks since I posted an update. I started putting together the passenger side footbox, using the FFR screw holes as guidance. Alignment was terrible, i had nothing but issues. I posted some questions, and the advice I received from the group was on-target. I disassembled the footbox, ignored the screw holes and the footbox went together pretty decent. I still have some gaps that aren't s good as i had wanted, but are acceptable. Several pieces of aluminum took some serious tweaks, like the inside vertical wall. The bent angle was way off, requiring some serious adjustment. It's now all drilled and cleco'd together. I am going to get the drivers side together before I rivet it all.
Hey Jeff,
Good on ya! I'd be interested to hear your comments on the Driver's side footbox fitment, or if I'm a lunatic :p
Your progress on the fuel tank fitment makes me realize I can vent my frustrations in a new way! :D
Craig C
gbranham
10-16-2023, 02:56 PM
While awaiting arrival of a few parts I pulled out the gas tank. Per instructions, the flange around the outside needs to be straightened where it interfaces with the frame downtubes.
Here is one spot as-shipped:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=191198&d=1697468316
My precision gas-tank flange adjusting tool:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=191199&d=1697468316
Post adjustment:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=191202&d=1697468316
After all four of the bends were straightened, then came a test fit. I balanced it on my floor jack and brought it up. A bit of interference on the passenger side front downtube:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=191201&d=1697468316
After a few whacks with the deadblow:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=191200&d=1697468316
Looks great! Gas tank returned back to box to await another day.
The looped ends of the straps are too small for the 3/8 bolts to pass through. I will enlarge them a bit when I get back to this area.
I installed my gas tank this weekend, and I noticed the looped ends of the straps are too small for the bolts, as well. However, if you place the straps in between their mounting tabs, then run the bolt in with an electric ratchet/cordless drill, it'll go right through and clearance itself. Easy peasie.
edwardb
10-16-2023, 08:31 PM
While awaiting arrival of a few parts I pulled out the gas tank. Per instructions, the flange around the outside needs to be straightened where it interfaces with the frame downtubes.
After all four of the bends were straightened, then came a test fit. I balanced it on my floor jack and brought it up. A bit of interference on the passenger side front downtube:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=191201&d=1697468316
Looks great! Gas tank returned back to box to await another day.
The looped ends of the straps are too small for the 3/8 bolts to pass through. I will enlarge them a bit when I get back to this area.
Hard to be 100% sure from the pictures. But I can't see the plastic bumpers the kit provides (and the manual shows) that go into the ends of those downtubes. Confirm they're installed before final installation of the tank. You don't want metal-to-metal contact.
I installed my gas tank this weekend, and I noticed the looped ends of the straps are too small for the bolts, as well. However, if you place the straps in between their mounting tabs, then run the bolt in with an electric ratchet/cordless drill, it'll go right through and clearance itself. Easy peasie.
Good idea! Thanks!
Hard to be 100% sure from the pictures. But I can't see the plastic bumpers the kit provides (and the manual shows) that go into the ends of those downtubes. Confirm they're installed before final installation of the tank. You don't want metal-to-metal contact.
Thanks for the heads-up! Any advice is much appreciated!
Front brakes came in - Powerstop Mustang Cobra calipers with 13" rotors
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=191727&d=1698628158
18" wheels clear calipers and rotors with plenty of room
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=191728&d=1698628158
FYI, the Powerstop calipers have metal pistons.
Rears also arrived. I need to get bolts to secure the calipers.
I really wanted to run the Cadillac ATS Brembo front calipers, but they would not fit with the FFR wheels. Plenty of radial clearance, but hit the back of the wheel. Those things are fat.
I pulled the headers out of the box to check their fit and any potential interference. All the holes line up, they clear the dipstick tube, and I can keep the supplied plug wires.
It does look like the flanges are not completely flat. We will see how they do.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=191730&d=1698628158
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=191729&d=1698628158
Those things are beautiful!
Rear brakes. Standard late-model Mustang GT rears from PowerStop. 13" rotors, single piston calipers with parking brake.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=191777&d=1698773457
Like the fronts, the rears have plenty of clearance with the FFR 18" wheels
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=191776&d=1698773457
The rears go on quick. I did have to source the bolts from the local parts store, about $7 per pair.
The parts guy wanted to know the specifics on my Mustang. That started an interesting conversation....
BUDFIVE
10-31-2023, 02:09 PM
Jeff, I’ve got the same front and rear brakes waiting for my kit (Nov 18 ship). I’m hoping they fit with 17” wheels-will obviously be tighter than your 18s. Down the road we can compare notes on balancing front to rear, etc. my build is manual brakes. I’ll post a build thread this week after I make the final payment.
BUDFIVE
Well, its been too many weeks since the last update. I will attempt to catch up. Quite a bit of progress.
First up is the Drive-By-Wire throttle pedal. My LS3 came with a drive-by-wire throttle body. I had a choice of keeping it and using a drive-by-wire pedal or swapping out the TB.
After much internal debate, I elected to keep the TB and use a drive-by-wire pedal and a computer that would support them.
Once that decision was made then came "how do I mount this thing??". Luckily a couple other guys had been down this road. I pirated their ideas with some modifications.
The Holley Terminator X Max computer requires a GM pedal, part #10379038, originally intended for many Cadillac models.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=193630&d=1703434615
I fab'ed the bracket from a piece of aluminum, cut some clearance for the connector latch, and made a couple of mounting details.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=193632&d=1703434684
There is a lot going on in this very crowded area.
Next I moved to the parking brake. I am using late-model S550 Mustang rear calipers and rotors source from PowerStop. I followed FixIt's (John) lead and used the factory Mustang parking brake cables. I sourced them from Rock Auto, MotorCraft #BRCA286 and #BRCA373. Less than $50 for the pair. Check out Fixit's post for a great writeup, starting with post 131:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?27544-40-Watt-Garage-amp-9365/page4
I pried off all of the Mustang mounting brackets, except for the ones nearest the caliper. I trimmed off the tab that holds the ABS sensor cord.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=193636&d=1703434749
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=193637&d=1703434749
The remaining hole in the rear knuckle, although metric, was very near the tap size of 5/16-18 (17/64"). I tapped the hole 5/16-18 and used a stainless 5/16 button head to secure the cable sheath.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=193638&d=1703434749
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=193639&d=1703434749
I trimmed the sheaths to length and put the ends back on. The plastic ends were a bit big for the holes in the bracket, so a step drill made quick work of that minor issue. Next up was the cables and the handle, and tying all of that together. This is where things went a wee bit sideways. I had a solid plan for the cables, cut them off, mounted the details, and had a functioning parking brake. Great. Until a placed the driveshaft safety loop into the tunnel. There was no way everything was going to go in there and still function. After much fitting, fussing, cussing, and redoing I followed the general plan of many others. I now have room for the driveshaft loop. I will finalize the mounting of it after I see exactly where the transmission tailshaft falls. Here is the PB handle and cables.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=193640&d=1703434749
That was tough.
I decided to use the Tilton triple chamber reservoir. I made the modification of the tops, adding the gaskets (per OB6), and fab'ed a bracket from a scrap of aluminum 3/8" thick. Could likely hang most of the car from it, but I like over-engineered and sturdy.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=193641&d=1703434880
The reservoir came with -4AN fittings, so I used 1/4" Nicopp tube, -4AN bulkhead fittings, and -4 to 1/4" hose pushlock fittings sourced from Racetronix to create the fluid path to the master cylinders. A definite learning experience on tube flaring and bending. I trashed a boatload of tube before I got these made. Not exactly proud of them, but appear to be functional. We will see when I add fluid to the system.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=193642&d=1703434880
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=193643&d=1703434880
Next came the brake hoses and lines. I made 5 of these brackets from 1 x 1 aluminum angle.
The large hole is 3/8" for the -3 AN fittings, the small holes are for the 1/8" rivets.
On 2 I cut the bottom leg down to 3/4" to fit the front tube without overhang.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=193626&d=1703434615
The brackets were riveted to the frame in appropriate locations and the -3AN steel fittings installed.
The driver's side got a -3 steel Tee fitting.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=193628&d=1703434615
The passengers side gets a -3 steel elbow.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=193629&d=1703434615
On the hose side of the fitting I used a 90 degree steel coupler so the stress on the hose is reduced.
The FFR supplied front hose and banjo bolts and washers are used to connect to the Mustang Cobra calipers.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=193627&d=1703434615
Here is the caliper with the hose connected and wheel hung on the hub.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=193633&d=1703434684
After the front hoses were connected I moved to the rear. I used a couple of the little angle brackets to mount -3AN steel straight bulkhead fittings onto the frame and connect 14" -3 flex hoses from Pegasus Racing. Straight fittings on both ends.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=193855&d=1704043715
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=193857&d=1704043715
Since I did not source my brakes from FFR I did not have any fittings or hoses. At the caliper end of the hose I used -3 banjo fittings with a 30 degree offset, also from Pegasus. The banjo bolts were sourced from the local auto parts store, specified for a 2019 Mustang GT. They came with crush washers.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=193856&d=1704043715
I used the last of the brackets I made to mount a -3 steel Tee onto the frame between the rear wheels, then bent and ran Nicopp 3/16 tube between the rears.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=193858&d=1704043715
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=193634&d=1703434684
The long run was secured to the frame with some 3/16" aluminum clips from Racetronix.
While definitely not as nice as the tube bending some others have done, I'm learning. I hope it don't leak.
On the advice of an excellent resource I moved the line for the rear brakes to inside the footbox. I ran the line forward, down the inside, and to a -3AN 90 degree bulkhead in the floor.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=194710&d=1705847223
I ran the line along the 4" frame tube, up the rear fame tube, and to the bulkhead tee. I filled the master cylinders with fluid and bled them. A lot of air that took a loooong time to get burped out. Once the bubbles and foam stopped I reconnected the front and rear lines to the master cylinders and did a vacuum bleed at each of the calipers. Once there was clear flow into the bottle i applied foot pressure to the brake pedal - NO LEAKS! I did have a couple small weeps at 2 of the banjo fittings, only requiring slight tightening. The system will still require a final bleeding.
I had previously done some prep on my fuel tank, so I pulled it out and installed the Aeromotive 18638 "Stealth 340" fuel pump and hanger assembly. Went in without any issues except a little fiddling to get everything to fit in a little hole.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=194713&d=1705848290
I sat the tank on a little shop stool, slid it under the frame (shock, perfect height), and secured it with the straps. The vent screwed in with no drama, tightened a little past hand tight to prevent cracking the plastic bushing.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=194711&d=1705848264
Dropped in the gauge sending unit and secured it with its lock ring.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=194712&d=1705848264
Jeff Kleiner
01-21-2024, 10:01 AM
We’ll done Jeff!
Jeff
Mike.Bray
01-21-2024, 12:13 PM
Nice job on your brake lines!
Thanks guys! They were a struggle at times, and I learned a lot along the way. I sure appreciate the advice and excellent examples.
The guys at Holley are very specific about which drive by wire throttle pedal must be used with the Terminator X ECU. It was originally used on some Cadillac models, maybe a few more. It fit in the footbox, but is wide and gets very close to the brake and visually doesn't match. Just by chance I was on the Breeze website ordering my battery box and noticed Mark sold a nice stainless piece designed to fit the Russ Thomson pedal to make it look like the rest of the Wilwood pedals. I took a chance and ordered one, hoping it would I could make it work on the Caddy assembly.
Here is the pedal with the left side trimmed away:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=194784&d=1705941335
Here it is from the side. It has a relatively narrow beam that is the structural part with the textured pad molded on top.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=194785&d=1705941335
Here it is with the left and right side trimmed. The Dremel plastic cutoff wheel made quick work of the plastic.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=194786&d=1705941335
I cut off about 1/2" from the bottom, reshaped the lower back side of the beam, cut away some of the pad at the top,and mounted the Breeze pad using the piece of stainless angle Mark includes in his kit.
The plastic works easily with the Dremel, a wood rasp and a file.
It is secured with a single #10-32 screw and lock nut that runs across the back side.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=194787&d=1705941335
Here it is in the footbox. Looks a lot better and I have more pedal clearance.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=194788&d=1705941335
JimStone
01-22-2024, 12:43 PM
Good work with the pedal. The Willwood style pedals look nice, much better than the cheap-looking plastic DBW ones
Its Bruce
01-22-2024, 01:31 PM
Looks great. For reference, I ended up cutting off that spring housing part of the pedal because it was rubbing on my carpet with the paneling installed. I put a dab of epoxy on the little detent pin in place of the spring. I saw no reason or need to be able to fold the pedal up.
I like what you did with the pedal. I've been looking at mine thinking I need to do something similar... the OEM pedal looks out of place. I also agree with Bruce that the folding mechanism can be deleted.
John Ibele
01-22-2024, 02:47 PM
Ditto on both the pedal and the brakes. I think the modern pedal next to the two vintage-looking ones on the Wilwood pedal box is kinda jarring. I'll be interested to see what you think of the brakes - nice choice, I have some regrets about not including the Wilwoods in my kit order, but having said that, I can't say I have a single thing to complain about with the stock GT brakes. If AutoX or performance driving class exposes any weakness, I'm likely to upgrade with the choices you made.