Engine/trans installation time.

[Steve in Snohomish]

Good morning all.
Tried to install the engine trans yesterday and hit a few roadblocks.
351W with an AOD.
Searched and only found out that I need to trim excess tabs, etc from trans and also need to mod the trans mount.
I can figure out the trans portion(obvious hit points) but what needs modded on the mount? The stock pan seems to wedge into the forward support bars.
Any pics would be great.

Thanks,
Steve

[GoDadGo]

Steve,

Do you have any pics of the interference?
Also, which car are you building?
MK-4, FIA, Type-65, Truck or Hot Rod

Steve

[Steve in Snohomish]

GoDadGo,
Sorry, MK-4.
Didn't get any pics. The pan interference was at the aft end(where the pan angles in on both sides) so it wouldn't allow any more movement back. It needs about 1" more travel to line up with the mounting bracket.
I've already removed the bracket so I can't get a pic.
I'm going to pull the engine/trans back out, trim a couple excess tabs(looks like there is one tab on the left side hitting the frame).
I might see about mounting that brace from the underside instead of the top side, could give me a little more room. Would also allow me to mark where the interference is and how much/where to modify?

Thanks,
Steve

[GoDadGo]

So it is the transmission pan interfering with the transmission bracket?
Is it also the "Ears" on the Automatic Transmission Bellhousing that is also giving you grief?
Is this correct?

[Steve in Snohomish]

So it is the transmission pan interfering with the transmission bracket?
Is it also the "Ears" on the Automatic Transmission Bellhousing that is also giving you grief?
Is this correct?

Yep, those are the 2 issues.
It looks like trimming the ears will be simple. No so much with the pan to bracket.

[GoDadGo]

Can you fab a new and/or modify the existing transmission bracket?
I had to do all sorts of things to stick a SBC and ZF 6-Speed in mine.

[Steve in Snohomish]

Looks like I will try to fab a new mount. Thinking a rectangle piece of heavy gauge plate steel bolted to bottom of original mounting location and use just the back portion of original bracket on top, with filler in between to help stiffen it. This should make a sturdy base to mount tail shaft to.

[Jim S]

Steve,

I installed a 351W and a 4R70W into my MkIV. You do need to trim the tab off of the tranny on the driver's side. While I was at it, I also trimmed the passenger's side tab. The first picture shows where I had the tab hit the chassis.

The 2nd picture below is the new mount that I made. I cut the 3/4" tubes off of the FFR supplied mount and welded them to a new plate that I fabricated out of 1/4" mild steel. If you make the mount plate wider, you will be able to clear the pan on the tranny. I would suggest that before you do a final weld, install your shifter linkage. Depending on the shifter / linkage you use there can be interference with the 3/4" tube.

189201189202

Another point to be aware off... You may need a different slip yoke on the drive shaft. I am running an IRS and got FFR drive shaft P/N 15956. This is a 28 Spline 2015 IRS 8.375" driveshaft. While the yoke will fit, the outside diameter is too small for a 4R70W. It will not seal at the tail shaft and you will have a fluid leak. The 4R70W requires a unique slip yoke. The Sonnax T2-3-14061HP is one example that will work with the 4R70W and the FFR supplied driveshaft / 1330 series u-joints. Whether you get the slip yoke from Sonnax or Dana - Spicer 2-3-14061X (much cheaper), the barrel will be longer than the FFR supplied slip yoke making the install impossible once the engine / transmission is in place. The picture below shows how I cut my Dana - Spicer slip yoke. It still has plenty of engagement with the tranny tail shaft. In the picture, the FFR supplied slip yoke is on the right.

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Here is a link to my install thread issues. https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?45267-4R70W-Install&highlight=slip+yoke It has better pictures of the tranny tab interference.

Hope this helps you out.

[Steve in Snohomish]

Jim, thanks for the pics, both here and the link you supplied.
I pulled the engine/transmission back out this morning and trimmed the drivers side tab.
I like what you did on fabbing the mount. I was thinking about using a 3/16th piece of plate steel cut to match the FFR mount plate, then welding them together and bolt on to frame while deleting the two forward running brace bars. Yours looks much cleaner. It looks like your plate about 3" wider over all?

Drive shaft should be fine as it is for the AOD.

[Jim S]

3/16 inch steel is what FFR used. I used 1/4 inch because that is what I had available.

I really don’t remember how much wider the mount is but 3 inches is about right. How I determined the needed width was to bolt a much wider than needed basic steel plate to the chassis. Then I put the 3/4” tubes in place holding them with vice grips. I then scribed a line onto the steel plate along the inside of the 3/4” tubes. That not only got me the plate width but also the angle I needed.

I would think hard about removing the 3/4 tubes altogether. Without them the weight of the tranny is only supported by a small, cantilevered tab. Is that enough?

[Steve in Snohomish]

Jim,
I see what you mean about deleting the 3/4" tubes, probably not enough support at the rear. I'll go with 3/16 steel as I need to get something from the box store.
I did trim both tabs(drivers side as in your pic and passenger side at the starter) and she slipped right in.
Fab the new bracket and I'll be done with this little portion.
Now if only Comp Cams can get their cores for my retro fit kit. That has been on order since middle of February.