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doug_porsche
08-13-2023, 04:12 PM
Just double checking.
Background Info
Bought my Gen II “80%” done, and I am not a trusting kind of guy.
The 1997 fuel tanks seem to have more play than what I am comfortable with.
They can move side to side about ¼” or so.
And I am not comfortable how the seam on the bottom sets directly on one of the frame tubes.
This seems wrong to me.

I was going to just verify things are correct.

Question:
Am I correct in that to install/remove the tanks is to:
Take the seats out
Remove the two panels below the rear window, behind the seats.
Take pictures/notes on fuel lines and electrical connections.

icoulabeenav8
08-13-2023, 09:19 PM
Aluminum tanks are the way to go. Well worth the expense.

VRaptor SpeedWorks, LLC
08-14-2023, 08:19 AM
IMO, the tanks sitting on the chassis is not a concern. The "slop"/movement seems unusual since most of the time you have to put considerable pressure on those aluminum tank cover panels to get them to bolt up....which pinches the tanks into place in the chassis and keeps them from being able to move at all. If it were me, I'd probably just add a "shim" of some sort between the tank and tank cover or tank and chassis (wherever the slop is between the tank and chassis) so that when the alum tank cover is installed and tightened down, it pinches the tank tight against the chassis and prevents movement.

Yes, the removal procedure is pretty much just like you outlined.

Shoeless
08-14-2023, 08:49 AM
I bought a role of single side stick neoprene sheet that I have used in a few areas of my build. Even on the aluminum tanks where they fit up against the frame, an additional stop I made on the bottom, and on the front on the tanks where the rear wall panels install and hold the tanks in place. if you need more thickness in a couple spots, just double it up so that it holds things very snuggly.

beeman
08-15-2023, 11:43 AM
Anti-fatigue foam mats, cut to size, can be used to fill the space and stabilize the tanks