Rear Over Riders w/ K-mod - update

[scrubs]

So I installed the fronts today...assume I did them correctly by threading them on and using the nylock.

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Now for the rears...I used the Kleiner mod so I have 7/16" threaded rod. I have done some searching, but need advice.

1) do I use the short FFR rear QJ spacer?
2) How do people thread the threaded rod into to the over rider?
3) Do I drill out the threads and use the spacers and nuts?

Thanks,

j

[Jim S]

Are you installing just the over riders or are you installing a bumper and the over riders? The installation is a little different depending on which you are doing.

[scrubs]

Are you installing just the over riders or are you installing a bumper and the over riders? The installation is a little different depending on which you are doing.

Just the overriders.

Thx

[65 Cobra Dude]

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J, just did this yesterday. I use the smaller spacers as seen and just cap nuts on the outside of the QJ.

Henry

[scrubs]

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J, just did this yesterday. I use the smaller spacers as seen and just cap nuts on the outside of the QJ.

Henry

Thx, Henry, but looking to install the overriders instead of the QJ.

J

[Jeff Kleiner]

Been traveling for a few days and late to respond...

I've done them two different ways, both come with their own challenges. My preferred method is to drill out the threads and then use a nut on the backside of the mounting plate. It takes some dexterity to get the nut started because you're fiddling around inside the overrider but with patience and a generous amount of swearing you'll get it. Pro Tip: put a wide piece of tape across the bottom of the overrider so that when you drop the nut (and you will) it will be caught inside rather than following the curve and being launched like it's coming out of a zoom-flume, ultimately winding up 6 feet under the car! ;)

Jeff

[Jim S]

Installing just the over riders is going to make the mod a little different. I'll repeat your questions directly so you get answers and then explain how I would approach it.

1) do I use the short FFR rear QJ spacer? It doesn't matter. Pick whichever one looks the best to you.
2) How do people thread the threaded rod into to the over rider? You can't. You will need to drill those threads out so the over rider will slide over the 7/16" all thread. You will need to fab a plate to slide over the all thread rod first. Capture this plate with nuts threaded on to the 7/16 all thread rod. The fabricated plate will need a hole drilled into it that aligns with a new, threaded hole in the over rider. So the assembly sequence onto the all thread rod would be:

- Spacer
- Fabricated plate
- 7/16" Nut
- Over Rider

The over rider is held onto the fabricated plate using a new bolt threaded into the new hole you drilled and tapped into the over rider. See the pictures below... both stolen from a Jeff Kleiner post. The first picture has a green circle around part of the FFR bumper. You will need to replicate that part of the bumper with the fabricated plate I am talking about. The center, unused hole in that plate mates with the new hole you need to make in the over rider. The second picture depicts the modified over rider. The two 7/16" threaded holes have been drilled out large enough to pass over the all thread rod. The hole in the center aligns with the hole in the fabricated plate and is tapped for whatever size bolt you pick (1/4x20 or larger will work).

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3) Do I drill out the threads and use the spacers and nuts? See 2) above.

I hope this is clear. Ask questions if not.

Does anyone else have another approach to this?

[Jeff Kleiner]

Installing just the over riders is going to make the mod a little different. I'll repeat your questions directly so you get answers and then explain how I would approach it.

1) do I use the short FFR rear QJ spacer? It doesn't matter. Pick whichever one looks the best to you.
2) How do people thread the threaded rod into to the over rider? You can't. You will need to drill those threads out so the over rider will slide over the 7/16" all thread. You will need to fab a plate to slide over the all thread rod first. Capture this plate with nuts threaded on to the 7/16 all thread rod. The fabricated plate will need a hole drilled into it that aligns with a new, threaded hole in the over rider. So the assembly sequence onto the all thread rod would be:

- Spacer
- Fabricated plate
- 7/16" Nut
- Over Rider

The over rider is held onto the fabricated plate using a new bolt threaded into the new hole you drilled and tapped into the over rider. See the pictures below... both stolen from a Jeff Kleiner post. The first picture has a green circle around part of the FFR bumper. You will need to replicate that part of the bumper with the fabricated plate I am talking about. The center, unused hole in that plate mates with the new hole you need to make in the over rider. The second picture depicts the modified over rider. The two 7/16" threaded holes have been drilled out large enough to pass over the all thread rod. The hole in the center aligns with the hole in the fabricated plate and is tapped for whatever size bolt you pick (1/4x20 or larger will work).

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3) Do I drill out the threads and use the spacers and nuts? See 2) above.

I hope this is clear. Ask questions if not.

Does anyone else have another approach to this?

Jim,
Scrubs is using overriders only, no bumper. The instructions and photos you cited are how I do it with bumper AND overriders which is a different process.

Jeff

[scrubs]

Thanks, gents. I thought that drilling out the threads was the option, but needed to make sure I didn't miss something straightforward before embarking on an irreversible move.

[Jim S]

Jim,
Scrubs is using overriders only, no bumper. The instructions and photos you cited are how I do it with bumper AND overriders which is a different process.

Jeff

I understand Jeff. I used the bumper picture because that is all I had (and thanks to you I had it). My text explains that he will need to fabricate a plate to take the place of the vertical piece in the bumper. See the green circle in the 1st picture that shows the bumper.

You got that part... right Scrubs?

[scrubs]

My text explains that he will need to fabricate a plate to take the place of the vertical piece in the bumper. See the green circle in the 1st picture that shows the bumper.

You got that part... right Scrubs?

Not really. The overrider already has a plate with the threaded holes welded in place. I was just going to drill those out, place spacer over rod, slide overrider onto rod and secure with washer and nut.

Jose (aka scrubs)

[Jim S]

Jose,

Sorry that I am not doing a better job explaining. Let's see if this helps. Maybe this will make the light bulb come on.

Say you do as you suggest above... Slide the over rider onto the all thread rod and then try to install washers and nuts. You will find that you don't have enough room to get your fingers in there to install the washers and nuts behind the welded on plate ins the over rider. Even if you do have small enough / nimble enough fingers, you will never get a wrench in there to tighten the nuts.

As a result, you need to fabricate a plate that gets bolted onto the all thread rods first and then that plate you fabricated is used to hold the over rider in place. I know a picture would help this discussion immensely but I don't have one. My install uses the bumpers with the over riders. I have all the parts to do a quick mock up. Can you wait until Wednesday (Aug 16) for me to have time to build a mock up and take pictures?

Jim S.

[scrubs]

Jim, I appreciate your trying to help me and waiting will not be a problem.

J

[Jeff Kleiner]

Jose,

Say you do as you suggest above... Slide the over rider onto the all thread rod and then try to install washers and nuts. You will find that you don't have enough room to get your fingers in there to install the washers and nuts behind the welded on plate ins the over rider. Even if you do have small enough / nimble enough fingers, you will never get a wrench in there to tighten the nuts….

Jim S.

Gotta’ disagree Jim but it is most certainly possible. I’ve done exactly this on dozens of them.

Jeff

[Jim S]

Gotta’ disagree Jim but it is most certainly possible. I’ve done exactly this on dozens of them.

Jeff

Jose,
I didn’t want to hold you up so I found time this morning. I also wanted say that Jeff Kleiner is right. You can put the nuts on inside of the over rider and get a wrench in there to tighten them.

I was going by memory rather than looking at the over rider on the car. I found it frustrating getting the nuts on and tightened. It does avoid drilling / tapping a hole in the very hard, ¼” thick stainless over rider though.

If you too find installing the nuts frustrating, here is another method.
1) Start by drilling out the 7/16” threaded holes in the over rider. Use a 15/32” drill bit.
2) Drill and tap a new hole in the over rider between the two holes you just drilled out. (See the picture. You probably want to drill your hole more aligned with the existing 7/16” holes than I did. No one will ever notice but it would look better.) Some tips on doing this:

a. The over rider is made from stainless steel. It is very hard. Don’t try to drill the new hole in a single step. Start small and incrementally work your way up.
b. You need sharp drill bits. Don’t even bother if you don’t have sharp drill bits.
c. When drilling or tapping the hole, use lubrication. Cutting oil is best but if you don’t have that use engine oil or WD-40.
d. Don’t force the tap. Turn until you get reasonable resistance and then turn the tap backwards. Then go forward again until you get more resistance. This back-and-forth motion will clear the chips you are making as the tap cuts. While this is good practice on any hole you are tapping, it is especially important in this hard steel.
e. The hole I tapped uses a 5/16” x 18 x 2” button head bolt. A hex headed bolt will work just as well but I wanted to use a stainless bolt and a button head was what I had.

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3) Fabricate a plate. The picture below shows the plate I made. It is roughly 3 1/2” x 2”. The holes are drilled in alignment with the 3 holes in the over rider. (I made this out of a piece of scrap I had laying around just for this quick mock up. You will make a far nicer piece, I’m sure.) Some tips on fabricating this plate:

a. I made this one out of 1/8” aluminum. It will be strong enough and you don’t have to worry about rust. It could also be polished to a high shine if you are into that kind of thing. Aluminum is also easy to cut and drill.
b. You can pick up a 2” wide by 3 ft long piece of aluminum at Lowes or Home Depot for $10 - $12.
c. You could measure to get the holes in the right location on the aluminum plate but you don’t need too. Put a piece of wide painter’s tape on the over rider. Mark the position of the 3 over rider holes on the tape and then carefully pull the tape off and re-stick it on the piece of aluminum. Now you have an exact template for where the holes need to go.
d. While my tape suggestion will provide an exact hole location, it doesn’t hurt to drill the holes a little over size to give yourself some flexibility.

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4) Repeat this for the other over rider. That’s it for fabrication. The next picture shows the parts laid out in the order they get assembled.

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Here is a series of pictures with it all assembled. (I did switch out the nylon lock nuts in the following pictures with a normal 7/16” nut to allow me to assemble this by hand.)

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Jim S.

[Jeff Kleiner]

Well, that's kind of the long way around and while it would be functional it would come with a price cosmetically since the plate and nut will be visible & exposed between the overrider and the body. I do something similar when installing overriders with the loop bumper but the fasteners end up hidden in that configuration.

Jeff

[Jim S]

Can't disagree.

When I started this, I was thinking about over riders with the loop bumper I have on my car. It wasn't until I started assembling the mock up above that it became apparent you could get the nuts on inside the over rider and get a wrench onto the nuts.

Live and learn. More experience gained.

Jim S.

[scrubs]

I appreciate all the feedback on this one. Will update the crew with my experience.

[scrubs]

Wink

I suspect that someone has already done this, but I didn't see it on the forums...

The main issue with getting the rear overriders on is starting the nut on the end of the threaded rod (in that little space between the overrider mounting plate and the overrider itself).

I lost count of how many times I dropped the nut - and cussed - while trying and (as Kleiner suggested) set up a small roadblock/dam to keep the nut where it fell. Placing the nut is much easier when the overrider is not on the threases rod which is mounted to the car.

I then tried this which was successful. It may/may not help someone else out...(assuming you have the Kleiner mod):

1. drill out the mounting plates on the overrider
2. screw threaded rod into the overrider and place washer/nut (off the car)
3. insert the threaded rod thru body then add an additional washer to the one called for in the Kleiner mod - between the inside of the body and coupler nut. Also used the short spacer between overridder mounting plate and body.
4. lock the 2 nuts together and use them to thread the threaded rod into the coupler nut
5. tighten the nut on the end of the threaded rod

If this has not been described before I will call it the "scrubs variation to the Kleiner rear quick jack modification"

[MPTech]

I installed mine w/bumper 10+ years ago, using Jeff's mod, as described (no plate). I think the bumperless option is identical.
Yes, I dropped the frickin' nuts multiple times, chased them across the garage floor and cussed (Jeff said that was part of the process).
It works, but I got finger cramps trying to thread them and if you have big hands, forget it! (enlist your wife or kids / grandkids to help)

THANKS again to Jeff all these years later for the Kleiner mods. They are life savers! Currently re-assembling mine and they are timeless.

[Jeff Kleiner]

Wink

I suspect that someone has already done this, but I didn't see it on the forums...

The main issue with getting the rear overriders on is starting the nut on the end of the threaded rod (in that little space between the overrider mounting plate and the overrider itself).

I lost count of how many times I dropped the nut - and cussed - while trying and (as Kleiner suggested) set up a small roadblock/dam to keep the nut where it fell. Placing the nut is much easier when the overrider is not on the threases rod which is mounted to the car.

I then tried this which was successful. It may/may not help someone else out...(assuming you have the Kleiner mod):

1. drill out the mounting plates on the overrider
2. screw threaded rod into the overrider and place washer/nut (off the car)
3. insert the threaded rod thru body then add an additional washer to the one called for in the Kleiner mod - between the inside of the body and coupler nut. Also used the short spacer between overridder mounting plate and body.
4. lock the 2 nuts together and use them to thread the threaded rod into the coupler nut
5. tighten the nut on the end of the threaded rod

If this has not been described before I will call it the "scrubs variation to the Kleiner rear quick jack modification"

That's actually the other method I use which I mentioned in post #6 but didn't detail---it would have been information overload (and too much typing :p)

Jeff

[scrubs]

That's actually the other method I use which I mentioned in post #6 but didn't detail---it would have been information overload (and too much typing :p)

Jeff


Figured you must have thought of it.

[GoDadGo]

Been traveling for a few days and late to respond...

I've done them two different ways, both come with their own challenges. My preferred method is to drill out the threads and then use a nut on the backside of the mounting plate. It takes some dexterity to get the nut started because you're fiddling around inside the overrider but with patience and a generous amount of swearing you'll get it. Pro Tip: put a wide piece of tape across the bottom of the overrider so that when you drop the nut (and you will) it will be caught inside rather than following the curve and being launched like it's coming out of a zoom-flume, ultimately winding up 6 feet under the car! ;)

Jeff

I avoided the swearing by using my Flex End Ratchet Wrenches which negated the dexterity issues.