Gen 2 Coyote - No Start

[cdurbin328]

Hey Guys.
Need some input on a Gen 2 Coyote no start issue I'm having.
Turn the key to start and get nothing. I can hear the Ford fusebox energizing. I've checked all the ground connections multiple times. I've confirmed 12V power with the ignition key to start and start/run.
Been on the phone with FFR and Ford Performance multiple times. FFR is telling me that I have everything wired correctly and that it might be a defective ECU/PCM that came with my Ford Performance wiring kit.
I've been pouring through the forum posts and seems like this is something that does happen more often than I would have thought.
What do you guys think?

Appreciate the help.

[michael everson]

Have you tried jumping the solenoid to start it? Maybe there is something wrong with the start circuit on the harness. Just apply 12 volts to the small stud on the starter with the key in the run position.

There is only a few connections to get it to run.
Red/green to 12 volts ignition
red/blue to the start lug on the ignition switch or blue wire.
orange wire to fuel pump.

Is your clutch switch wired correctly?
Mike

[rich grsc]

Check the RF harness, sometimes the start circuit has pins reversed at one of the connections.
read this post: https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?46909-First-Start-Issues

[Al_C]

I agree with Mike. If you have the wires connected correctly, it is most likely the clutch switches. You have two on the Gen II. If you have access to the DS footbox, you can adjust the switches. If your body is already on, you'd need to crawl underneath the dash... Nevertheless, check the connections you made on the orange/blue wires. If you used spade connectors, there's a reasonable chance the connection is weak. (This happened to me - I replaced all those connectors with weatherpack!)

To Mike's point on the starter circuit, there are a lot of connections needed on the key module. Take a look and ensure all of those wires are secure on the back side of the key/starter switch. IIRC you have 3 or four wires attached at every contact point! Everybody always says "check your grounds", which in this case is actually good advice.

[edwardb]

I agree with Mike. If you have the wires connected correctly, it is most likely the clutch switches. You have two on the Gen II...

Depends on the vintage of the Gen 2 Coyote. Early ones (like the one I had) did have top and bottom clutch switches. Later ones, maybe a year or two after, didn't have the top switch. No top switch on the Gen 3 either. But in any case, only the bottom one should affect the start. It has to be closed in order for the PCM to allow a start. The top one, when it was there, was apparently trying to address the idle/stall issue that was a big issue with the Gen 1. Obviously Ford figured out a solution that didn't need the top switch.

[Fbird]

Hi there,

Been there with two different no starts on my 2015 coyote. I can empathize with this one big time.
Did it ever crank on its’ own? That might be telling.

When I first got mine going I first had the fuel circuit incorrect…no fuel. Fixed that and it cranked right up and started. After several starts later it began cranking then not starting….I cranked and checked things, bypassed the clutch switch by jumping a wire on it and then the whole thing just stopped cranking. I could hear the fuel pump and injectors prime, but no cranking at all.. I disconnected power figuring the computer went into some kind of limp mode..which it was. That did not reset mine since still had an issue…so Still no crank. I then bought a code reader and plugged that it. The code reader told me I had a tps error. This sent me going towards the throttle body to investigate. Turns out the connector on my junkyard motor had slid loose. I reconnected and then cleared the code with the reader and it lived again….Fired up and happy. I just needed to figure out why my tach did not work.

Fast forward several months later…I had a non functioning tach and I acquired the autometer tach adapter to make my set up work. I wired it into the Ford harness as directed and voila! Tach was alive. Went to tidy up my wires by wrapping and soldering things up for keep. Moved some other wires around in the process and tried a final test by turning the key…it cranked…smelled real over fueled but would not start. After saying some words and looking over my connections again I tried again. Cranked, but no start and then it stopped cranking.
Went back to the code reader. It was showing a very low reading on the air temp from the mas airflow sensor..hence the excessive fuel. I traced the wires back and found that I had bent and cracked a soldered joint when doing the tach wire tidy up. I quickly fixed this and figured I got this now. Turned the key and nothing still…uggg walked away and took a break.

It was still in limp mode and disconnecting battery would not reset it and clearing codes with the reader didn’t work. I believe Mike Everson suggested jumping the starter with a remote switch to make sure the starter was ok. It was. So I turned the key to the on position and cranked it with the remote switch. It fired up …ran super rich..then fixed itself. After starting it that must have allowed the system to exit limp mode, because it cranked right over perfectly since then.

If you have a code reader plug it in…if not this might be time to buy one ..see what the system says. Is the coyote computer light illuminated as it should by the plug in port?
After this get a remote starter switch. Check if it cranks. If it does ..try firing it with the remote switch. Thanks again to all those who helped me when I was in this situation.

T.poe

[cdurbin328]

Well the no crank issue was due to the wrong information in the FFR manual for the clutch switch. I swapped the leads to match the brake switch and presto it cranks.
Now I've got another issue... No fuel pump. Confirmed the wire at the Ford harness is getting power with a test light but still no fuel pump.