Trunk Questions

[Jim S]

I have a few questions on the trunk opening / trunk lid. Hopefully the forum can help me out.

1. The trunk gasket I got with the kit seems to be too small to fit on the fiberglass. The fiberglass around the trunk opening on my car runs about 3/16" thick. The gasket seems to be for something about 1/16" thick. I tried opening the press on edge up. I can get it on but it doesn't stay in place very well. I think the metal fingers in the gasket can no longer grab because of how far I had to open it up it to get it to fit. Has anyone found a better fitting gasket for the trunk? If so, could you post what you bought or provide a link to where I could by one?

2. What is the best way to get the trunk lid to sit flush with the rear valence panel? The vertical part of my trunk lid (the part where the latch is) has more of a curve than the body's valence panel has. When I adjust the trunk lid so the center of the trunk lid is flush with the valence panel, the corners of the trunk lid are lower than the body / valence panel by a little less than a 1/4". I see three ways to fix this:

a. Ignore it and hope that most people don't notice.
b. Move the trunk lid further back so the corners are flush and then build the valence panel out with Rage Gold to make it flush with the trunk lid center. (I don't think this is really an option. I think where the trunk lid transitions from horizontal to vertical will be above the body by a considerable amount.)
c. Leave the center of the trunk lid flush with the valence panel and build the trunk lid out to meet the body / valence panel with Rage Gold. With the trunk lid open, it will be obvious the corners of the trunk have been built out. They will be considerably thicker than the bottom center edge of the trunk lid (where the latch is).

Is there another option for the trunk lid I have not thought of? If not, which of the above options does everyone use?


Jim S.

[CaptB]

I probably can't add much value here, my gasket fit well and leveled the trunk out. The hinges take work to get everything lined up but it will line up. Remember you will be trimming the trunk when you're doing paint on body so if it needs trimming that may throw you off too.

Good luck man.

[Lidodrip]

I used the FFR supplied gasket and found that it can accommodate significant variations in edge thickness (which there were on my build). It helps to trim the opening edge to a uniform width (1/2" I believe) and then make sure you fully work it into the gasket. My experience was that the trunk lid did not fit correctly until the gasket was in place. If you are still struggling with the gasket, Mike Everson - Replica Parts - sells an adhesive D gasket that can be used.

James

[edwardb]

Can't help with the second question. Mine have fit OK. Some of the more experienced body guys maybe can help. But for the first question, been there done that: https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?28461-Trunk-Weather-Stripping&p=325772&viewfull=1#post325772.

[Hoooper]

Sounds like you may have trashed the gasket by prying it open. Next time start the gasket at a spot on the trunk opening that is thin and work your way around from there.

Do you have the latch installed? At least on mine the trunk wouldnt look like it fits right until I put the latch on and latched it down

[Jim S]

With all of you saying your seal fit, I am starting to wonder if I am using the wrong seal. That would be embarrassing!! :o

See the attached picture. The end of the seal is opened up so that it will go over the body fiberglass at the trunk opening. The seal opening in the picture is about 3/16" at the end. Even opened up that far, the seal will not seat with the body in the "U" of the seal. The seal is just not wide enough. A little further up in the picture you can see the original width opening. It is about 1/16".

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For reference, I do have the latch installed. To get the spacing right, I am using the small rubber bumpers supplied with the kit as suggested by the assembly manual.

[Jim S]

Can't help with the second question. Mine have fit OK. Some of the more experienced body guys maybe can help. But for the first question, been there done that: https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?28461-Trunk-Weather-Stripping&p=325772&viewfull=1#post325772.

Edwardb.... The picture in your referenced post is a huge help!!! There is no way the seal that FFR supplied in my kit is that wide. Not even close to what you have pictured.

I'll go look at the McMaster part number. I think that is what I need.

Thank you very much!

[Jeff Kleiner]

Been traveling and away from the forum this week but better late than never I guess. The trunk lid is actually the easiest of the moving panels to make fit! A few pointers:

---You have the correct trunk seal. It needs to be installed to properly fit the lid. Yes, it often needs to be spread slightly, especially for the 4-6" where the flange gets fat at the mold line for the rear cap. Before trying to put it on stick the point of a phillips screwdriver with a 1/4" shank in the channel and pull it end to end. It will spread it and allow it to go on easily---get it started and feed it along the flange giving it gentle taps with a plastic or rubber mallet as you go.

---Trunk lid doesn't get any rubber bumpers (those are for the hood and it usually only needs 2).

---Use my rear coupler mod and get rid of the internal spacers for the bumper bolts. This will allow you to flex the valance in flush to meet the trunk lid.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?38622-Kleiner-Mod&highlight=coupler

---The trunk lid must be trimmed all the way around. It just needs a little along the upper edge to smooth out the cut (give it a back bevel on the under side). It gets trimmed more on both sides and significantly more along the lower edge. You'll find that by trimming the lowed edge the lid sits down so that the curve of both the body and lid match as the shape transitions from horizontal to vertical. Once you've done this flex the valance to meet the lid as referenced above.

Good luck,
Jeff

[Jim S]

Thanks for the reply Jeff. I hope you had a good trip.

Some feedback on your reply in hopes that it may help others in the future.

--- I tried using the Philips screw driver tip you suggested. That didn't solve the problem. The picture below shows the seal looking at the end. You can see the portion that slips over the fiberglass is shaped more like a "V" when it needs to be more like a "U". I could only get the Phillips screw driver part way in. That left much of the gasket too narrow to slide onto the fiberglass. It was going to take more than a gentle tap with a plastic hammer to get it on all the way. I gave up and ordered the seal that edwardb pointed out in his post above (McMaster-Carr part number 1120A411). I just got the seal this evening. I'll post a picture once I get it installed.

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--- On the rubber bumpers... I understand. I was only using them as a temporary replacement for the seal to get an idea for how the trunk lid fit. I could see that without a seal around the opening, you couldn't get a true look at how it fit.

--- I am using your rear coupler mod (brilliant I must say). I have the bumper and over riders. I did not want to drop the gas tank every time the body needed to come off. How much force can you put on the rear valence? I thought about doing this but I was afraid that it could cause stress cracks down the road if not sooner.

I did try pulling the valence in this way today. I got it about half way there and decided too stop. It seems like a lot of force. I also need to check the trunk aluminum. I have the bulb seal there squeezed flat and I may be starting to push the aluminum.

[Jeff Kleiner]

Jim,
Looks like the same seal that FFR has been providing (and I’ve been using) for years, just not spread. Moot point if you’ve already ordered the alternative but here’s that same seal after it’s been spread and installed.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=188740&d=1691936493

If you have hard contact between the rear trunk floor aluminum lip and inside of the valance you may well need to trim the aluminum to get further movement. I’ve had to do a few but it’s been a while…I think it comes down to tolerance stack up; trunk floor position, the two bends and body position.

Jeff

[Jim S]

Huh. You're right. That does look like the same seal. I guess I'm just being a wimp when it comes to installing it.

It sounds like in your experience the rear valence can be pulled in to align with the trunk lid. I'll watch aluminum contact and decide on where to go from there. I think you are right. It is probably tolerance stack up. I'm close to being okay but decided not to push my luck.

[phileas_fogg]

Jim,

I used a rubber mallet to work the trunk seal onto the fiberglass lip. Doing so cured the cross-sectional problem you're seeing. It's been a couple of years, but as I recall I used lots of gentle taps to smoosh the seal into the right form & place. If you're nervous, get some 3/16" thick aluminum or even plywood, chuck it in a vise, and see if you can finesse the seal into the right profile using your mallet.


John

[Jim S]

Jim,

I used a rubber mallet to work the trunk seal onto the fiberglass lip. Doing so cured the cross-sectional problem you're seeing. It's been a couple of years, but as I recall I used lots of gentle taps to smoosh the seal into the right form & place. If you're nervous, get some 3/16" thick aluminum or even plywood, chuck it in a vise, and see if you can finesse the seal into the right profile using your mallet.


John

Yeah, I wimped out and just bought a new seal with a wider channel (but the same size bulb) and set the FFR piece aside. I figured if I had to fight it this much to get it on, and then take if off for paint, I would really be hating myself by the time I did the second install. I think my sanity is worth the $20 to get a seal that was easier to install.

By the way, good idea about using some aluminum as a surrogate for the fiberglass. I'll do that the next time I have a seal that doesn't cooperate.

Jim

[Jim S]

I wanted to say thanks to all who provided a response. I decided to go with a different trunk seal. I ordered the new one from McMaster-Carr - part number 1120A411 (thanks for the tip edwardb). It has the same size bulb but is 1/4" wide where it slips over the fiberglass. It goes on much, much better and still has lots of grip to stay in place. (The body measures 3/16" around the trunk opening on my car.) No hammer taps needed. Here is a picture of it installed.

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