First Start - Issues

[elspanishgeek]

So, the day of the first start finally arrived and sadly, it was a dud. No cranking, no clicking, no sound whatsoever when I turn the ignition. Here's what's working:

- Electrical in-tank fuel pump works, verified by the regulator showing a steady 7 PSI (what the Holley carburetor asks for)
- Engine not seized, verified by previously removing the spark plugs and turning the crankshaft by hand without much issue (the recommended pre-ignition priming by BluePrint for my 347)
- 12V at the battery post of the starter solenoid (A 3268N which came with the BluePrint engine)
- 12V at the positive post of the ignition coil (An MSD Performance Blaster which came with the BluePrint engine)
- Clutch safety switch operating properly, verified with continuity with a multimeter

Here's what I think it's not working properly. The ignition post of the starter solenoid is returning as ground for some reason. I removed the light blue wire that connects to it (per the RF harness from FFR) to verify that it wasn't the wire, and it's still reading as ground. I'm pretty sure this is the issue but want to confirm. I'm a bit surprised if it is, since this had to work when BPE dyno tested the engine. Any suggestions or advice before I replace the starter? Also, can this mess up any of the timing of configuration done by BPE? I'm going to call them tomorrow anyway but, as always, wanted to check with y'all.

Here's a picture of the starter solenoid, you can see:

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- Direct ground connection from the leftmost bolt, to a hefty bolt near the battery into the big round chassis tube, which also connects to the negative terminal of the battery.
- All the positive and battery connections.
- The ignition/clutch safety switch connection.
- The connection already made from the solenoid to the starter.

Lastly, here's the car right before the "rolling" of shame back into the carport after the failed launch.

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As always, thank you in advance!

[elspanishgeek]

I saw someone reply asking for more info on the ignition coil and alternator but I guess they deleted it. Regardless, in case it adds more info to my situation:

I followed this diagram to connect the orange EFI/coil wire and the purple tach wire from the RF harness:
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Here are a couple pics before and after showing my connections:
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Note that there is a difference in the MSD diagram, the negative coil wire they have labeled as orange is yellow in my photos.

As for the alternator, it is a 1-wire alternator:
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[edwardb]

Start simple. I'm assuming your gauges light up when you turn the key on. The fact that you have fuel pump, ignition voltage, etc. suggests that basic wiring is working. The fact that you seemingly have no voltage on the blue start wire is where I'd look first. Ignition wiring, alternator wiring, etc. may come into play at some point. But shouldn't prevent the starter from spinning. When you turn the ignition key to start there should be +12V on the blue wire at the starter small terminal. The fact that it's going to ground when unpowered is likely not an issue. But to be honest I've never measured it that way. Check to make sure you have the ignition switch wiring exactly right. You should have the blue wire(s) on the start terminal of the ignition switch. When turned to start you should measure +12V on that terminal. Then through the clutch switch which should be closed when the clutch is pushed down. Then the +12V will be at the starter. It could be as simple as wrong wiring at either the ignition switch or clutch safety switch. Note also you can check the starter operation by jumping +12V directly to the small terminal on the starter. It should spin the starter.

[Dgc333]

You could also test the starter by shorting the two terminals on the starter, it should crank the engine.

Over the years I have done this using a screw driver but I also have a remote start switch which does the same thing.

[Norm B]

The solenoid connection at the starter will show ground if tested. It is an electromagnet with one end of the wire coil grounded and the other getting 12 volts from the ignition switch at start.
Here’s a troubleshooting checklist.
1. Does everything else go dead when you turn the key to start? If it does then check your battery for full charge and that the terminals are clean and tight.
2. Does your voltage gauge show a significant drop when the key is turned to start? If it does the solenoid is stuck. Get someone to turn the key while you tap or hit the solenoid with a hammer.
3. Check for 12 volts at the starter main lead. You already did this.
4. Check for 12 volts at the start wire at the solenoid with the key in the start position. If you have voltage go to step 6
5. If no voltage at the solenoid check for it at the start post on the ignition switch. If no volts then switch is bad. If you have volts then check wiring between switch and starter.
6. Test starter with a remote starter switch or by jumping the two terminals at the starter. If using this method use a cheap screw driver and be prepared for a significant shower of sparks. If it doesn’t turn over then the solenoid or starter is bad.

You have probably done most of this already stuff. Hopefully it helps isolate the issue.


Good luck

Norm

[Jhinkemeyer]

As some noted you said the clutch switch is working, but did you wire to the correct terminals? Clutch switch must be closed with clutch depressed. If you don't get 12V at the blue wire while cranking then start looking for for it. Work from the ignition switch toward the starter (through the clutch switch) to see where you lose your 12 volts.

[Mastertech5]

Actually the clutch and brake switches should be wired the same, closed when depressed. The manual is wrong and this has been discussed in other posts.

[elspanishgeek]

Couldn't be more grateful for how quick and thorough these responses were. Chased down the wiring from the solenoid to the ignition through the safety switch, and yep, the spade connector from the RF harness to the safety clutch switch was faulty. Replaced it and voilà.

First start with my look of complete elation and relief:
https://i.imgur.com/uXFQLgY.mp4

First drive still getting the hang of how sensitive this car is:
https://i.imgur.com/TBPSz8t.mp4

The beauty herself:
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What a journey this has been. I know that it's far from over and not really ever over. This thing is gonna break down on me and gonna require TLC for many years to come, but being able to drive something that you built with your own hands is hard to describe.

I am also very happy that everything seems to be working, the gauges are working, fan is turning on at around ~185F, no smells, and no puddles of any kind underneath after turning on or after the 3 short drives I did. I did have to refill the power steering after every short drive. Is there a specific oil pressure range I should be expecting? I thought I remembered reading that it would be high but I don't think it went over 40 PSI. Actually, on that note, anybody has a post first-start/first-drive checklist? I know retightening the coolant hose clamps and the header bolts, but anything else that I should pay attention to during this stage? I did feel the brakes were a bit long, but I assume that's because the pads and rotors need to go through the bedding procedure.

Again, thank you to everyone who directly and indirectly allowed me to get to this moment. I highly doubt I would have been able to do so without the help I received here. Thank you.

[Mastertech5]

Congratulations! It's a great feeling isn't it!

[Norm B]

Congratulations. That “it’s alive” feeling is hard to describe

Norm

[Nigel Allen]

Congrats and thanks for posting the start video. The look on your face says it all.
Yet another fantastic build coming to life on this forum.

Cheers,

Nige

[egchewy79]

congrats! the look on your face is priceless.
keep up the good work !

[M22_COBRA]

I'm sure the relief and excitement are off the charts! Congrats!