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LCD Gauges
12-29-2011, 10:34 AM
At this point I’ve completed what I call the, “First stage” of body prep. which is knocking down the flashing to a level that can be block sanded. The hood will be my starting point, however I’d like to share my ideas before going too much further.
There are three main areas of concern:

Front nose
Light buckets
Blending the seams
There is a lip extending on the front end of the hood which sticks out about 1/8”. The photos below depict the side profile as you look across the front edge from the driver’s side wheel. My plan is to fill the area beneath the lip and blend a curve to approximately the air duct opening for the radiator cooling.

I thought about sanding the overhanging lip back to meet the lower section, but it seems to be more work and will expose the fibreglass.

706470657066

The light buckets are a mystery to me. I’d like to see some close up photos of how you all secured the buckets on the Gen1 and then blended the seams around the opening to mate with the buckets themselves. My plan is to make the edges of the headlight opening as straight as possible, and make the thickness of the glass equal along the perimeter. At the moment there are varying waves of thickness.

Once the openings are symmetrical and ‘true’, I’ll rivet the buckets to the hood and apply some filler along the edge of the hood openings and form a smooth radius to the light bucket (as shown by the red markings).

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These next photos show the sanded down flashing almost to be flush with the hood gel-coat. Aside from the visual remains, there is a slight roughness when passing my finger across the flashing seam from side- to-side. This is expected as I simply used a coarse file, and then light block sanding with coarse grit paper and a wood block.

It has been suggested that I make a small trough along the seam (indicated by black markings) and then apply filler over the trough. I will apply enough filler to extend over the seam on either side (indicated by red markings) to allow me to blend and contour the filler to the shape of the hood profile.

70707071 7072

Am I on the right track with my technique and thought process?

VD2021
12-29-2011, 11:04 AM
For the mold lines.

Here's a technique for the mold lines. After you've cleaned the area to remove the wax block the area 3"-5" to either side. Then clean and take a look at what you have. A few areas may block out perfectly. Now to address the low spots. Rough up the low spots and smooth any sharp edges (corners). Some of these may end of being the groove you mentioned. Clean and you're ready for filler.

beeman
12-29-2011, 01:15 PM
Read this:
http://www.ffcars.com/forums/17-factory-five-roadsters/230701-started-body-work-6583-a.html

...then read this...
http://www.ffcars.com/forums/17-factory-five-roadsters/245817-yet-another-bodywork-thread-scott-l-sands-sands-sands-some-more.html

VRaptor SpeedWorks, LLC
12-29-2011, 04:38 PM
I guess my short answer for all of the above is.....break out the body filler. No need to grind a low spot anywhere just so you can fill it UNLESS that low spot contains voids in the fg or gelcoat. If there are no voids/air pockets then grinding a trough does nothing for you but weaken the area you're grinding. Rough up all surfaces very well before applying filler. The area at the front of the nose is nothing but a mis-match in the mold......just rough up the low spot and fill it. This is also normal around the headlight bucket area of the hood......just rough up the low spots and fill them.

For the headlight bucket, remember that you're (probably) going to have a border painted around the outside of the headlight lens. Bond the buckets to the hood and pack the gap with filler, blend it out and be done. The perimeter around the lens will hide where the bucket and hood meet.

LCD Gauges
12-29-2011, 08:19 PM
Great, thank you everyone for the info and links. I feel a bit more confident moving ahead after getting these pointers. I still have a few pages to read from the first thread Beeman, but it's
worth the time. The photos are very detailed.

LCD Gauges
04-19-2012, 10:57 PM
I'm just about to tackle the next stage of body work, so I thought I'd share the tools that I'll be using. Now that the flashing has been filed down (I used a medium coarse steel file), I'll be attempting to blend the seams with the curves of the body.

I'll be purchasing a sanding block (rubber backing) for the task, and using this sanding tool which also has a rubber backing:
89108911

The next couple of days will be spent reading this forum, and watching some videos on fiberglass prep. I'll be researching which types of products to use for filler, prime,
paint, etc.

I'll try to keep detailed photos of each step so that new members, and novice bodyworkers (like myself) can feel more comfortable carving up their cars! One of the first
spots to fix up will be the hood. My car wont have any louvers installed, and I don't plan to cut large holes for the mesh. Alternate ideas are on the table for getting the
air/pressure out of the radiator area.

The first pass of block sanding and filler will target the headlights, and the parting lines around the nose of hood. Wish me luck, and please feel free to leave more links/tips!
8912

VD2021
04-19-2012, 11:16 PM
I'm just about to tackle the next stage of body work, so I thought I'd share the tools that I'll be using. Now that the flashing has been filed down (I used a medium coarse steel file), I'll be attempting to blend the seams with the curves of the body.

I'll be purchasing a sanding block (rubber backing) for the task, and using this sanding tool which also has a rubber backing:
89108911

The next couple of days will be spent reading this forum, and watching some videos on fiberglass prep. I'll be researching which types of products to use for filler, prime,
paint, etc.

I'll try to keep detailed photos of each step so that new members, and novice bodyworkers (like myself) can feel more comfortable carving up their cars! One of the first
spots to fix up will be the hood. My car wont have any louvers installed, and I don't plan to cut large holes for the mesh. Alternate ideas are on the table for getting the
air/pressure out of the radiator area.

The first pass of block sanding and filler will target the headlights, and the parting lines around the nose of hood. Wish me luck, and please feel free to leave more links/tips!
8912

Not a necessity but, I purchased this Durablock kit from summit along with their 80, 120 and 220 adhesive backed sand paper rolls. http://www.summitracing.com/search/Brand/Durablock/Product-Line/Dura-Block-6-Piece-Sanding-Block-Kits/?autoview=SKU

You may have completed this step already, but just in case, be sure to use a wax/grease remover on the gel-coat prior to blocking. This will keep you from embedding contaminates from the surface into the fiberglass.

carbon fiber
04-20-2012, 09:18 AM
don't forget to reshape the front wheelwells! another tip is to use a "guidecoat" to help find low spots. when finish sanding use flat black spraypaint fogged lightly over the area you are working on and then when you go back to sanding the paint will come off the high areas leaving the low spots more visable.