Kirby's MKIV Coyote Build

[kirby]

Finally decided to post a build thread.

I purchased a partially completed kit to finish at the end of June. I am just starting a build thread and will update this as I can.

Basic Specs Below
MKIV Complete kit purchased in late 2017
IRS
Willwood's front and rear
Manual Brakes and Clutch
Gen 2 Coyote
Power Steering

Photos of the day we picked it up are below:
187403187404

[kirby]

Reserved for Index

[kirby]

Body Off the Car and out of the way for now.
187406187407187408

[kirby]

I noticed the current fuel setup in the car was an external fuel pump with a 5/16" supply line and a 1/4" return line. Both were hard lines and I was not a fan of the setup. My son joined me in the shop to remove the old system.

[gbranham]

Congrats, and it was great meeting you last night! I'm excited about having another local builder. While I'm miles behind you with my progress, I look forward to watching both of our builds move forward!

For the rest of the forum...it's pretty wild that we live about 10 miles apart, in a tiny town of 6000 people in Tonganoxie, KS. I was blown away when I discovered we were basically neighbors.

Greg

[kirby]

Thanks for stopping by Greg. Hopefully we can lean on each other as we build. The question will be who is going to finish first!! Even with my head start I think it may take me longer since this is my first build.

[gbranham]

Thanks for stopping by Greg. Hopefully we can lean on each other as we build. The question will be who is going to finish first!! Even with my head start I think it may take me longer since this is my first build.

You're way ahead of me....We'll have fun for sure, though!

[kirby]

Trying to Catch up here, a couple of weeks ago this showed up!!!

[kirby]

I was waiting to attach the draft shaft as the individual I bought this from mentioned it was contacting the tab that held the E Brake cables. I nipped it with the disk on a dremel and ended up with enough clearance. This will be touched up later

188095

[kirby]

I also went with a single 3/8" fuel line from the back of the car to the fuel rail and a GM style filter/regulator. I saw multiple other folks do this and also got some advice from Mike Everson on this. I looked at multiple mounting locations but ended up just putting this in the location that the filter would normally go. I had to remove the mounting bracket for the GM style filter/regulator.
188137
188138
188139

[kirby]

I went with a breeze 190LPH pump and hanger.
188140

[robmccon]

Can't see your attachments from the last 2 posts. Would like to see your filter location and line routing (I'm at that point myself).

[kirby]

Can't see your attachments from the last 2 posts. Would like to see your filter location and line routing (I'm at that point myself).

Rob I think this is fixed.

[kirby]

Installed the Malfunction indicator light in the dash. I centered this over the steering wheel and it snapped right in after drilling the location. I think i used a 3/8" bit but cant exactly remember.

188141

[kirby]

Most of the dash and gauge wiring is figured out at this point. I am using the HAAT (hot at all times) lead off the coyote harness to power both the clock and the GPS Speedo Unit. One question I have is where to mount the "antenna" for the GPS unit. Can it be underneath the fiberglass?

[edwardb]

One question I have is where to mount the "antenna" for the GPS unit. Can it be underneath the fiberglass?

Yes. Many of us place it on the windshield mount on the RH side. Under the body. The magnet on the antenna holds it in place. Works fine there.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Electrical/.highres/IMG_4142_zpsmwynna2l.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Electrical/.highres/IMG_4142_zpsmwynna2l.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

[kirby]

Thank You this lets me move that portion forward.

[kirby]

I was working through the wiring between the coyote manual and the RF harness (both older and possibly outdated). I chose to let the coyote control pack engage the harness. I think I have this right but was able to connect the two wire in the photo below. These were the SMR and Ignition Request.

I have not tested this but hopefully I am correct. I have a knee surgery on 8/22 and my goal is to fire the motor before then.

188191

[kirby]

I did not like the power block that came in the boxes of parts so I ordered one from Amazon. It is mounted in the engine bay. I saw where some folks had placed this behind the dash but like this being shown in engine bay.
188192

[kirby]

I have an upcoming knee surgery and I am trying hard to get to a first start before it happens. I ordered a couple of items from Mark at Breeze and Spent some time getting them installed.

Fuel Pump Pigtail
188554

Power steering lines are in with reservoir mounted.
188555
188556

I don't really like the cooling line setup and will eventually change this out for something else but will be leaving it for the first start.

[kirby]

Now for something I am not truly happy with. The center section for the IRS was installed but had not been painted or prepped. I chose to coat this without removing it from the chassis. In hindsight I don't really like it but my wife has convinced me that no one will be able to see it when it is complete.

Before:
188557

After:
188558
188559

This does allow me to put in the trunk floor and set the battery.

[kirby]

I wanted to make sure I had the tach working so it was attached as shown below. I use a lot of liquid electrical tape when working on boats, etc. So used it here as well.

Scraping back the wire:
188562

All Soldered In
188563

Just need to let the liquid tape dry and re-wrap with tape.

[kirby]

I had some questions about the vacuum system and got some great help from people on the forum. There is a small 7.5mm vacuum line on the passenger side of the motor that is not addressed in the manuals. Consensus is to tie this line to the half inch port on the front of the motor. I used some nylon fittings to make the size changes and put a piece of fuel hose between as a temporary until my vacuum line shows up. I tried the local auto parts store but the "gentleman" behind the counter needed to know the year of the car to provide me with some vacuum hose. :confused: When the manager stepped in she informed me they were out.
188871
188872

188873

[kirby]

My wife was pushing me this weekend to start the car since my surgery is coming up on the 22nd and that was my goal. I filled the coolant system and the power steering system with fluid. I pulled the fuel pump relay and tried to turn the car over with the key and was met with failure. The starter acted like it wanted to engage but would NOT turn the motor over. I then tried to jump the starter to get it to turn over. It acted like it wanted to but still would not turn the motor over.

I checked all the connections and the battery and still had nothing. I was very frustrated and took a drive to clear my head and run an errand. About 10 minutes from the house I recalled that I did not see anything in the manuals about ground straps to the motor. I installed a strap from the passenger mount to the frame and SUCCESS. The motor turned over.

One last check of all my connections. I plugged in the fuel pump and cycled the key a couple of times to prime the system.
Then this!!

https://photos.app.goo.gl/K3N2a581K8R7kFtd7

No start condition but things sounded good and I checked again for leaks. No fuel, no coolant, no power steering. Ok one more try.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/G9e25Dn8ttHNN9NL6

Now I will be at a stopping point for a month or so.

[gbranham]

Congrats on the first start! I remember my first start on my MkIII like it was yesterday...I was shaking like a leaf! Good luck on the knee surgery, and holler if you guys need anything!

Greg

[kirby]

So knee surgery complete and still not able to do everything I want in the shop but I had temporarily connected the Vacuum line on the PS of the motor as suggested by some others here and was able to finalize it. I used some 3/8" vacuum tubing and heated one end to allow it to slip over the 1/2" nipple.

[kirby]

I had a couple of questions after my initial start for folks who have gotten there before.
1. I use FORSCAN to run codes on all my other ford vehicles but it will not read anything on this setup. Anybody have recommendations for another software?
2. The oil pressure seems really high at first start. It pushes to 85 ish lbs and then comes down slowly as the motor warms up to around 35 at idle. Is this anything to be concerned with?

[kirby]

With two kids in sports my shop time is less and less right now. But I was able to take some time to redo the coolant system. I used the UPR tank as others have suggested. I used 2 hoses others have suggested but ending up trimming both for length to connect the radiator to the engine.
Upper Hose: Gates 51350
Lower Hose: Dayco 70621
Misc Hoses: Mishimoto MMHOSE-MUS8-15ANCBK
Tank: UPR 2015-2020 Mustang Coolant Expansion Tank Aluminum Satin

I had the bracket custom made at my work out of .125 5052 Aluminum and connected it to the bottom of the 3/4" cross member. I had a 45 degree bend put in the aluminum and it seems to work just fine. I am not planning on connecting the the bottom of the tank to anything.

Photos below.
190580
190581
190582

[kirby]

I was fortunate enough to get a turn signal switch from i.e.427 for my build. The quality looks awesome and I really like the way the internals of the switch work. It also has two accessory switches (one on the stalk and one a pull type on the opposite side).

I have this mocked up in my car but have not fully wired it yet. I may switch out the end of the stalk for a custom made aluminum something or other but have not decided.
I have the plastic dash so this flange had to go:
190617

Photos of it in the car:

190618190619190620

[i.e.427]

Don has been a great customer to work with. We did run into a hardware issue with the mounting screws provided being a little short. Don, without skipping a beat, headed off to the local hardware store and got a few just a bit longer and boom, all done. Thanks for your support Don and thank you for being one of our beta testers. Frank

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=190623&d=1696011910

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=190624&d=1696011910

[Blessidsoul12]

Cool build! But I'm struggling to accept that their are TWO members here from Tonganoxie...

Rock Chalk Jayhawk, from a former KU undergrad and KUMed grad and L-town resident.

[gbranham]

Cool build! But I'm struggling to accept that their are TWO members here from Tonganoxie...

Rock Chalk Jayhawk, from a former KU undergrad and KUMed grad and L-town resident.

I was shocked when I announced my build, and Don sent me a PM and said "Hey, I'm in Tonganoxie". I've been to his house a couple of times, and he's got a great setup, and a great family. He has helped me on my MkIV build already, and I look forward to his progress. He's a very smart dude; despite building my 2nd FFR, I feel like a newbie compared to his skills. I have a lot to learn from him!

Oh, and ROCK CHALK! I'm a 97 grad, in Physics!

[kirby]

I was shocked when I announced my build, and Don sent me a PM and said "Hey, I'm in Tonganoxie". I've been to his house a couple of times, and he's got a great setup, and a great family. He has helped me on my MkIV build already, and I look forward to his progress. He's a very smart dude; despite building my 2nd FFR, I feel like a newbie compared to his skills. I have a lot to learn from him!

Oh, and ROCK CHALK! I'm a 97 grad, in Physics!

Thanks for the kind words Greg. I am mediocre at best and just trying to get through a build.

I personally am a Gorilla. PSU seemed to be half the costs when I went, and once I had to start paying for it that was all that mattered.

[kirby]

Just a short update. This weekend allowed me to secure all the brake lines (with the exception of the line to the caliper) and do a rough alignment.

A couple of questions
1. I am not used to using Wilwood Calipers for the attachment of the flexible line I am inclined to use some teflon tape. Can someone confirm if this is needed or not needed?

2. When aligning the front steering on the front end I pulled a string around the rear tires ad suggested elsewhere. I noticed that my measurements varied by 2" from passenger side to drivers side. This seems wrong. Can anyone confirm? (I did not install the rear IRS system)

3. I have read on cutting the rear of the UCA ends and adjusting nut to get to 8.5" grease zerk to grease zerk. Can someone provide more context. It seems wrong to cut parts that are supplied in many of these kits.

[gbranham]

If you are using power steering (which if memory serves, you are), you can put additional caster in the alignment. However, the rear sleeves on the upper control arms won't allow it. To surmount it, I cut the sleeve at both ends, just enough to remove the rounded bit before the hex portion begins (maybe 1/8'' on both end), and also cut the two bolts that thread into the sleeve by the same amount. Here's how mine looks:

191210

[kirby]

Spent the last couple of days cleaning things up mostly. Front and rear wiring cleaned up




191417191418191419

[kirby]

We also worked on the brake system. Attached flexible lines and started the bleeding process.
191420

[kirby]

Finally got some more shop time.

1. Brakes bled.
2. Horn Installed
3. Switch wiring and dash cleanup. (only high beam switch left and hopefully that gets done over the holidays)
4. I had a power steering leak develop and tried to chase it down a couple of times. I though I just forgot to tighten a hose clamp as it appeared loose at the bottom of the reservoir. Cleaned everything up and came back a couple of days later, still leaking... same hose clamp loose. Turns out the hose clamp was junk and once replaced no more leaking.

I am struggling with what to do on the front end. Everyone says to cut the long nuts at the rear of the UCA. I am not able to get to the magic dimensions without so I am most likely going to cut them.

Anybody care to eyeball the front suspension?
192491
192492

[gbranham]

I think there are two issues with the front suspension:

1) The ball joint on the upper control arm should angle outward; yours appear to angle inward,
2) The tie rod arm on the knuckle should angle outward, and yours appear to angle inward.

I think if you reverse your tie rod arms on the knuckles, and (unfortunately) remove ball joints from the upper control arms, you'll be able to remove the UCAs, then flip upside down, reinstall the ball joints, and you should be good to go. Feel free to come check mine out. Happy to help you with all this if you want a hand. Can also help you cut down the rear adjuster sleeves on the UCAs, if you want a hand.

192497192499

[kirby]

I think there are two issues with the front suspension:

1) The ball joint on the upper control arm should angle outward; yours appear to angle inward,
2) The tie rod arm on the knuckle should angle outward, and yours appear to angle inward.

I think if you reverse your tie rod arms on the knuckles, and (unfortunately) remove ball joints from the upper control arms, you'll be able to remove the UCAs, then flip upside down, reinstall the ball joints, and you should be good to go. Feel free to come check mine out. Happy to help you with all this if you want a hand. Can also help you cut down the rear adjuster sleeves on the UCAs, if you want a hand.

192497192499

Well Crap. Maybe sometime this weekend I can swing by.

[gbranham]

Anytime. I'm home for the duration.

[kirby]

A couple of updates. Thanks to Greg for pointing out some issues with the front end assembly. I have everything corrected and reassembled (with the exception of the upper ball joints). I also trimmed the UCA arms in the back as suggested in other threads, I hated doing it but a half hour with a dremel and a sander and they cam out fine.

The old ball joints pinched and created tears due to the incorrect installation.
193046

New upper ball joint boots are on Order. Corrected front end assembly??
193057193058

I have the dash re assembled and everything wired in. After completing this the horns quit working. I naturally went back through the dash assuming I had somehow messed this up.... No change after reassembly.

I finally (after an hour or so) chased this to a bad ground in the Ron Francis harness. The leg for the horn ground was not soldered well to the ground in the front harness. I ended up just grounding the horns directly and removing the leg as it allowed me so insulate the main ground wire better.
193049

[gbranham]

Upper control arms look good. These pics are before you shaved the rear adjuster sleeve? Also, I think your pivot arms that connect to your tie rods (or whatever they are called) need to point outward, not inward. Here's mine:

193055

[kirby]

Upper control arms look good. These pics are before you shaved the rear adjuster sleeve? Also, I think your pivot arms that connect to your tie rods (or whatever they are called) need to point outward, not inward. Here's mine:

193055
I had the wrong photos. Correct ones now attached

[gbranham]

I had the wrong photos. Correct ones now attached

Looks good, Don! Congrats!

[kirby]

Trunk metal in!!! Thanks Greg for confirming that the manual and current shipped parts vary
193118

[kirby]

How time fly's. I have been lacking in updates for the last couple of months.

Heated Pads placed in seats. These were super simple to do and turned out great. I purchased them from another member here who did not use them.

Clutch Cable Adjusted and working like it should

Brakes bled.

All Dash Wiring is Finished

Both Roll Bars drilled and in Place. I bought the kit used and the drivers roll bar has a gap of about 1/8" where the back leg meets the stub from the hoop. I tried everything (short of grinding and rechroming)but it will have to stay how it is.

196431

[kirby]

I also temporarily mounted the side pipes in preparation for my first go kart drive.

196432196433

[kirby]

Then the first drive!!!! And it all went wrong from here

196434

[kirby]

What went wrong!!

This is embarrassing but hopefully saves someone else the trouble later. We drove the car maybe 1/4 mile down the street. I pushed the clutch in and immediately knew something was wrong. The car pulled to a halt as if the brakes were on. So we flipped around and went back to the house.

By the time we got to the house the rear brakes were almost locked up and were obviously not working like they should.

After pushing, pulling and using jacks and dollies I got the car back on the lift to dig in.

Rear Brakes were extremely hot (like 200+ Degrees). Pulled the tires and let everything cool down

[kirby]

The Problem!!

I had relied on the previous builder to set the wilwood pedal box up and took it for granted that it was correct because I did not fully understand it myself. I had went over the rest of the car step by step but did not look at the pedal box setup. I should have and was very lucky to not have a bigger issue or tear somethin up.


Upon further inspection and with some quick help from the forum I realized that the master cylinder rods had not been trimmed and that the rear brakes were not releasing.

The rear brake master cylinder was not traveling enough to release the pressure after I hit the brakes at the end of the driveway.

I worked backwards and pulled the rear calipers, pads, e brake setup.

Then pulled the balance bar setup to loosen the pressure on the master cylinder.

I was able to trim the rods to the correct length put everything back together.

I was then able to take both my kids and my wife for a ride. We put about 5 miles on it this weekend with no other issues. I am extremely excited for this step in the build.

[kirby]

It's sad when you have to go to page 4 to update your build thread!!!

Nothing too exciting but finished cockpit sound deadner this weekend. Between all the kids activities I had not touched the car in over a month. 200239200240

[gbranham]

Looks awesome! Getting close!

[JMD]

Just trimmed by MC rods today...hopefully another crisis avoided! Jealous that you get to drive yours around. I'm not quite there yet...

Keep up the good work!!

[kirby]

Just trimmed by MC rods today...hopefully another crisis avoided! Jealous that you get to drive yours around. I'm not quite there yet...

Keep up the good work!!

Thanks. It was a nerve racking experience to drive it. It is back to non driving status until the carpet goes in.

Keep plugging away on yours and you will be there soon enough.

[kirby]

Started on trunk carpet this weekend. I did not want to learn on the cockpit area. I chose not to put sound deadner in the trunk.

I feel like this will work and is giving me a great spot to start with learning.

200793

[kirby]

Trunk carpet complete! I also started in the carpet in the cockpit. I am so glad I listened to some members here who told me it was doable. I could not imagine getting the carpet that goes across the console and in each footbox in without having the driver's side footbox open.
201239201240

[kirby]

Carpet complete in the cockpit. Trying to decide if I should coat the bottom of the body as I have seen others do.
202083

[kirby]

Putting some finishing touches on the interior while I wait on seat sliders and billet tidbits.
202226

[Jeff Kleiner]

Carpet complete in the cockpit. Trying to decide if I should coat the bottom of the body as I have seen others do.
202083

I recommend U-Pol Raptor.

https://www.amazon.com/U-Pol-Raptor-Urethane-Spray-Liters/dp/B01CKE7B1E/ref=asc_df_B01CKE7B1E/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=693499073979&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=5111696644180157611&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9016077&hvtargid=pla-408758008484&psc=1&mcid=1f5623d6a1ca3429b703d8926df75e82&gad_source=1

Can't tell for sure because of the tape but it looks like you have bulb seal running all the way across the top of the cockpit back wall. If so this is incorrect...it does not go on the arch between the trunk side walls.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=202227&d=1515679869

Carry on!

Jeff

[kirby]

Thank you Jeff!! It is indeed running all the way across.

[kirby]

Decided to put the body on today and test the fit. I bought the kit partially started and was not sure what I was getting into with the body. I am hung up on the passenger side and can't get the body to move far enough down. But it's still exciting to see this coming together.

202900

[kirby]

I pulled the body and trimmed the lip of the dash to move the body forward. I am pretty happy with the position. I do have a small offset to the passenger side in the rear of 1/8". I did get the body to set about 3/8" in front of the strikers plates. I have not lifted the front as others have done. Any suggestions for what type of length of spacer to use?

The exhaust cutouts will be done on the chassis as well as the passenger side roll bar.

203141

203142
203143
203144
203145

[kirby]

Passenger door on and still needs some massaging but is looking good!
203471
203472
203473

[Blitzboy54]

Lookin good pal. I am always in awe of the guys who take on their own body work. Great work so far.

[kirby]

I appreciate it. I am back and forth on finishing this bodywork myself. I bought this kit partially started.

Went in to fit the exhaust with the hope being taking to to a car show in September.

The drivers side cut out is odd. I trimmed this a little to gain clearance in the inside but only have about an 1/8" on the rear side of the pipes. Is this too close?
203506
203507

[kirby]

Ok so after going back and forth in using blocks in the front to raise the nose....I decided I should listen to Jeff ( like their was a doubt).

My wife helped me remove the body and add a 2 inch long x 3/4 inch thick rubber block up front.

Then adjusted the nose cone left to right....again just like Jeff said.

Finally fitted the window back in that the previous builder started
204446

[kirby]

Working towards a car show Saturday. Rear lights in, brake light switch adjusted, and one headlight. Hope to get the other done tonight. The switch for the brake lights on the manual brakes was very particular since the throw is so short when you press the pedal.

204734
204735

[gbranham]

What car show are you trying to attend? I'll show up if you're going to be there!

Greg

[kirby]

The high school has a car show this weekend starting at 8 to benefit the shop program. If everything goes well I will be there. She won't have a hood or trunk...but I guess then I don't have to worry about propping either open!!!

Hopefully I see you there!

[gbranham]

Cool! If you end up going, text me, and I'll come on down. I used to show my Z06 at that car show...it's a great cause!

[kirby]

I purchased some exhaust wedges from breeze to adjust the side pipes closer to the body. They worked exactly as I hoped. Instead of bolting the exhaust hangers through the foot box I chose to tap the 2" tube. Photos below.
205490
205491
205492
205493

[JMD]

Ok so after going back and forth in using blocks in the front to raise the nose....I decided I should listen to Jeff ( like their was a doubt).

My wife helped me remove the body and add a 2 inch long x 3/4 inch thick rubber block up front.

Then adjusted the nose cone left to right....again just like Jeff said.

Finally fitted the window back in that the previous builder started
204446

I'm about to do a second fit of my body after trimming some aluminum and making some adjustments. What did you use to space the nose up off the frame 3/4"?

Glad to see your progress!

[kirby]

I used some 3/4" rubber that I countersunk some fasteners in. I have extra if you need some. I work in Lenexa but live out by Greg.

[kirby]

My wife was adamant that we had a passenger side roll bar. The body was not precut for it and I was nervous to drill the large holes.

I used a piece of 1-1/4" pvc and a 1-3/8" dowel to make a jig to mark hole location from the underneath side.

It went ok and the holes were drilled and then widened with a Dremel. Not perfect but will cover with the grommets.
205593

[kirby]

I also initially fit the trunk on Sunday. I have some odd things happening at the spot where the trunk lid interacts with the body near the quick jacks. I am pretty sure I need to adjust the spacers at the interior of the trunk. Thoughts?

205594
205595
205596

[Jeff Kleiner]

I also initially fit the trunk on Sunday. I have some odd things happening at the spot where the trunk lid interacts with the body near the quick jacks. I am pretty sure I need to adjust the spacers at the interior of the trunk. Thoughts?

205594
205595
205596

Do my coupler mod. This will allow you to get rid off the internal spacers and pull the lower valance in to meet the bottom edge of the trunk lid.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?38622-Kleiner-Mod

Jeff

[JMD]

It also sounds like most everyone has to trim some trunk aluminum, especially the floor. I trimmed about 3/8" from the floor and the trailing edge of the trunk walls as they were almost contacting the body even without the bulb seal, and that's with the body still needing to move forward a bit. If you didn't trim anything that might be holding the body out (or maybe it's just the internal spacers). I did the Kleiner coupler mod so didn't have to mess with the inside spacer.

[gbranham]

Don, if you want to come look at my car, I did the Kleiner mod. It's easy peasie.

Greg

[kirby]

Thanks all. I assumed this was the issue and have most of the parts available to do this. I think I can pull it off with the body in place.

[gbranham]

Thanks all. I assumed this was the issue and have most of the parts available to do this. I think I can pull it off with the body in place.

I've got extra all thread if you need it.

[kirby]

Have been working slowly at this. I think I have the driver's door where I want it. Big thank you to this forum and the members who keep encouraging me. 213619213620213621

[gbranham]

Looks good, dude! I know you'll end up with excellent bodywork. If you need anything at all, give me a shout.

Greg

[kirby]

Passenger door complete also
Before
214347
After
214348

[gbranham]

Looking good, Don!

[TrackDay17]

Any colors picked out yet Don ?

I signed up to take the build school myself in August.

[kirby]

I was going with a grey but we are leaning towards blue now.

[kirby]

After some long nights of thinking I placed my hood latches at 15 inches from center line. I will have minimal bodywork to do based on this. Photos below.

Next step is gapping the hood and filler. I should have all body work before going to the painter completed this week!

214766214767214768

[gbranham]

Looking good! Excited to see the finished product.

[kirby]

Hood scoop on! Hood fit complete!! And just when you think your done...I noticed the passenger door gap is a little tire in the front and only clears by less than 1/16" when opening the door. I don't think this will be enough after paint etc.

Also when I cut out the hole for the new scoop I noticed whoever at factory five made this hood did a terrible job. 3 sides of the opening are not adhered at all between the two layers. I will be contacting factory five in the morning.

[edwardb]

Also when I cut out the hole for the new scoop I noticed whoever at factory five made this hood did a terrible job. 3 sides of the opening are not adhered at all between the two layers. I will be contacting factory five in the morning.

It's normal after you cut the hood scoop to find the an open gap between the top and bottom layers. Stuff a liberal amount of HSRF all around and you'll be OK. Don't squeeze the layers shut. Just let it stay where they're at. I've done it several times. Others with more experience (Kleiner, etc.) may have more hints.

[kirby]

I will upload some photos later this week. It is not small spots there are whole sides of the cutout with no adhesion

[edwardb]

I will upload some photos later this week. It is not small spots there are whole sides of the cutout with no adhesion

Nothing I said suggested only small spots. The HSRF I described usually needs to go around the complete perimeter of the cutout and it will be fine. You’re assuming what you have is a defect. In my experience what you have is typical. It’s what mine have been and also described by others.

[gbranham]

Feel free to come check out mine as a comparison. I haven't done anything to mine; going to let Kleiner address it. I didn't pay much attention to the gaps after I cut the opening, but I seem to recall it was similar to what you've described.

Greg

[Jeff Kleiner]

I will upload some photos later this week. It is not small spots there are whole sides of the cutout with no adhesion

As Paul said this is exactly totally normal, not a defect and not something that you need to contact FFR about. There is a bead of adhesive applied somewhat randomly between the inner and outer layers for rigidity...sometimes it crosses through the hood cutout, sometimes not. The inner and outer layers are NOT to be squeezed together. Fill the gap with HSRF with the two layers relaxed (i.e., neither spread apart nor squeezed together). Pack it in about 3/4", smooth it out and then use filler as necessary to finish.

Don't have a photo actually zeroing in on it but this should give you an idea of how they finish out:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=214843&d=1749474933

Regarding the door gap; you can gain some by back beveling toward the inside along the front edge but you're right that 1/16" now will definitely pinch after you get the build up of the polyester primer + urethane primer + 3 coats of base + 3 coats of clear on both the door and the body.

Jeff

214843

[kirby]

I appreciate the responses. I have seen some seam separation but this looks extreme to me. The front and passenger side measure 3/16", the others are closer to 1/8".

Any recommendations other than hsrf? Or can you get it in less than quart size?

214853
214854
214855
214856

[edwardb]

I appreciate the responses. I have seen some seam separation but this looks extreme to me. The front and passenger side measure 3/16", the others are closer to 1/8".

Any recommendations other than hsrf? Or can you get it in less than quart size?

Your pictures are similar to what I've worked on and still consider normal. Jeff's sample size is much larger. You're using the words "seam separation" so you're still expecting the two layers to be attached in the area you cut? Jeff explained it so won't repeat. I've only used HSRF. Maybe there is an alternate material someone else will suggest. I've purchased HSRF for 10+ years. Used to be available in pints but now see the smallest is quarts. Mfg #46013.

[kirby]

I probably should use the words ply separation. You can physically see where they laid some type of bonding agent between the two plys but it almost looks like it set before they bonded the two halves. It is definitely not a bead and appears to have been applied with a pretty large brush.

This is my only interaction with the factory since I bought my kit partially assembled second hand. It took 3 trys to get them to send me a quote and actually respond to emails or phone calls for a new hood. I was told I would get a call back each time I talked with someone but it never happened until I emailed and complained. Between the terrible service and then getting what I consider a sub standard product I guess it's just frustrating.

Hopefully someone has used another product with success, buying a quart for such a small repair seems like a waste.

On a positive note I did refit the passenger door tonight. One more pass on the hood and drivers door...the I am "done" and it will be ready for paint. Thanks again to everyone on the forum for the support.

[Jeff Kleiner]

I probably should use the words ply separation. You can physically see where they laid some type of bonding agent between the two plys but it almost looks like it set before they bonded the two halves. It is definitely not a bead and appears to have been applied with a pretty large brush.

This is my only interaction with the factory since I bought my kit partially assembled second hand. It took 3 trys to get them to send me a quote and actually respond to emails or phone calls for a new hood. I was told I would get a call back each time I talked with someone but it never happened until I emailed and complained. Between the terrible service and then getting what I consider a sub standard product I guess it's just frustrating.

Hopefully someone has used another product with success, buying a quart for such a small repair seems like a waste.

On a positive note I did refit the passenger door tonight. One more pass on the hood and drivers door...the I am "done" and it will be ready for paint. Thanks again to everyone on the forum for the support.

The inner and outer layers are only "ply" bonded around the perimeter, same as the doors and deck lid. As I said in post 95 the scoop cutout area is not, and is not intended to be---at least not in the 100ish of them I've had my hands on ;) HSRF is the material of choice for filling the gap; I've seen others who used body fillers &/or other products that cracked or came out. If someone has had long term success with an alternative I'm all ears.

Jeff

[kirby]

I bit the bullet and ordered the hsrf, should be here tomorrow. In the meantime gaps are finished.

Only minor things to do before she leaves for paint.


215060

[kirby]

Had an alignment done at a local shop last Friday and got some spray outs for paint colors.

Forum member gbranham met me there. 2 cobras in a town of less than 6000 had the local shops wondering what was going on. Was a great day and the car drives much better.

215824

[kirby]

One less item left. I cut the louver opening to match what others have done.

216100216101

[gbranham]

Had an alignment done at a local shop last Friday and got some spray outs for paint colors.

Forum member gbranham met me there. 2 cobras in a town of less than 6000 had the local shops wondering what was going on. Was a great day and the car drives much better.

215824

Twas a fun time, although him charging you for 2.5 hours was a bit silly, when he spent over half of that sharing muscle car war stories with us. Hah! I'm scheduled with him for this Friday 8am if you want to stop by.

Greg

[Jeff Kleiner]

...him charging you for 2.5 hours was a bit silly, when he spent over half of that sharing muscle car war stories with us....

Greg

Ha! My guy Tony just charges a flat $95 for FFR alignment no matter how much we talk! :D

Jeff

[gbranham]

Ha! My guy Tony just charges a flat $95 for FFR alignment no matter how much we talk! :D

Jeff

Im going to eat breakfast next door to the alignment shop when I drop mine off, rather than standing around chatting with the guy. I figure I'll spend $10 on breakfast to save $150 in labor. :)

[kirby]

Im going to eat breakfast next door to the alignment shop when I drop mine off, rather than standing around chatting with the guy. I figure I'll spend $10 on breakfast to save $150 in labor. :)

I was going to make the comment since you talked about half the time maybe you should foot half the bill!!:p

Of course in a small town even my neighbor showed up to chat

[gbranham]

Lol. That's fair!

[kirby]

Titled and tagged!!! The process in Kansas is very simple but you are forced to title the car in the year it was complete. Mine was titled as a 2025.

[gbranham]

Congrats!

[Blitzboy54]

I’m right behind you. Great feeling getting her legal. Congrats on a big milestone.

[kirby]

Color choice is in. Top of these 3, where you can see the full card

218810

[gbranham]

Love it. Can't wait to see it done.

Greg

[JMD]

I’m going to miss you, me & Greg having matching red roadsters :D

[kirby]

Feels like I am starting over...car is back apart and headed to paint this week. Color choice is probably changing but let's keep people guessing for now.
221383

[gbranham]

I'm excited to see the finished product. Holler if you need a hand putting it back together!

Greg

[kirby]

Off to the painter!!
221579

[gbranham]

Schweet!

[TrackDay17]

Can't wait to see it painted !

[kirby]

Paint on the body!
226143
226144
226145

[gbranham]

That is awesome! Let me know if you need a hand dropping it on the chassis.

Greg

[TrackDay17]

Looks really good, definitely a nice choice of color.
Car is going to be a real head turner !

[Mike.Bray]

Paint on the body!
226143
226144
226145

That looks awesome!

What is the color?

[Blitzboy54]

Awesome!

[kirby]

That looks awesome!

What is the color?

Code is B-621p Acura apex blue pearl