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AA-ron
07-12-2023, 12:25 PM
I thought I'd post a few of my thoughts and observations after the first 500 miles on my Roaster.
Thinking back, way back, when building this car was just a dream, all the way to while the build was underway, I always appreciated "newbie's" early reactions to owning and driving one of these things.... so.... I thought I'd return the favor and pass along my thoughts.

From start to finish, my build took about 10 months. I finished last month and it was legal about 3 weeks ago. Through the course of the build, Factory Five did a great job, even with all the adversity in the supply chain they faced. Thanks FFR!
So here goes:

First and foremost, the car is tight and fast. The fast part wasn't a surprize, but for some reason, I thought that a garage built car would have a little "slop" in it (certainly considering I have absolutely NO auto-mechanical experience). In fact exactly the opposite is true. This thing drives tighter and cleaner than any car I've ever owned. I have a relatively mild engine compared to most it seems, a Ford Racing Boss 302 from Mike Forte that dyno'd at 358HP. Well, it's fast, very fast-- fast enough where it scares the hell out of me. Granted I only have 500 miles on it and I'm still learning it, but it's faster than I expected.
Since I've had it on the road, I've been pretty diligent about doing a "nuts and bolts" check about every 100 miles (because I'm paranoid) and here are the results of what I've found:
100 miles: cooling lines needed tightening and 2 of the header bolts needed to be re-torqued.
200 miles: changed the oil, but nothing else needed attention
300 miles: a few rattles surfaced, all easy fixes.
Door latch bolt had loosened, which I locktighted and fixed.
Hood hinge needed to be tightened, probably loose from day one.
A very very illusive "SQUEAK" from the rear that drove me absolutely nuts, turned out to be the trunk lid squeaking against the trunk lip seal (odd right?). I lubed it with a little silicon spray and 200 miles later its still silent.
400 miles: nothing needed any attention.
500 miles: the header bolts (same ones) need to be re-torqued. I do have loctite on these threads, so any advice here would be great.

Here's some more general reports that are a little more specific to my somewhat funky build. As some here know, I put my muffler in the nose of the car and vented the exhaust right behind the front wheels. A big concern here and rightly so, was if I'd be plagued with exhaust fumes and would I be potentially adding too much heat to my engine bay. I'm happy to report that I don't have any exhaust smell if I'm moving more than 5 to 10mph. In stop and go traffic, and when the wind blows just right I do smell it, but I'm assuming that is normal. From a temperature standpoint, the engine seems to run pretty cool and never exceeds 195- 200 (normally at 185 or so). I've had it out in stop and go beach traffic at 90 degrees ambient temp (as bad as it gets here in Maine) and no overheating problems (I don't count the first overheating problem relating to wiring my rad fan in reverse.... duh).

Foot box heat: I'm not sure if this is a byproduct of my exhaust being in the nose of the car or not, but I'm not getting high foot box temps-- at least where it's uncomfortable or even noticeable really. I do have copious amount of heat mat, so that seems to be doing its job.

My funky rollbar allowed for an elevated third tail light. I had a buddy behind me a few days ago say you can see me from a mile away (very very bright LED light). This makes me feel much safer as I live on the beach and there are lots of "out of towners" rubber necking, and rear end collisions are very common in my town as a result.

The brakes on this car are awesome. I have the standard set-up from Factory Five and they work perfectly.

The engine performance is also as perfect as I could hope for. It continued to run smoother and smoother as I approached 500 miles (where I am now). I'm guessing it was the EFI learning as I drove. Whatever the reason, it idles smoothly, accelerates smoothly, and sounds amazing.

I built my muffler in a way that would allow me to tune the sound by adjusting baffles and insulation. So far its right where I want it. There's a nice loping idle sound and then it flattens out as you accelerate. The x-pipe combining both right and left banks gives the car a very different sound-- kinda like "angry" European and I love it.

So I'm not without a few issues (aside from those two header bolts loosening).
My large size 12 triple E sized Fred Flintstone feet have made learning the pedal spacing a bit challenging-- although I'm figuring it out. I'm very glad I extended my foot box next to the go pedal. This has definitely helped.
The other issue I had early on was setting my right height too early and not accounting for the sag that happened. When I brought it in to have it aligned, unbenounced to me, it had sagged 3/8" and it was too low. I raised it and had it re-aligned. It has not sagged noticeably since. In any event, if it does continue to sag, I know the alignment was performed at the correct height, so all I'll need to do is raise it and I'll be good to go.

My paint job is good but there are a couple of pinholes, luckily in areas that aren't that noticeable, but I notice them... so be it, nothing I can do about it now. This is going to be a driver so I'm not too concerned about it really.

Speaking of the paint job.... one of the most difficult and surprisingly frustrating part (very small part) of the build was putting the protective clear plastic paint protection over the leading edge of the rear fenders. This almost beat me. I went through probably 5 pieces before I was able to get it to lay flat and invisible. WTF! I kept saying "I just built a freekin' car and THIS is what defeats me?????. I finally got them in place and am happy. I did get a few small chips before I put them in place, but oh well.

I'm sure I'm missing a bunch of stuff here, but I'll wrap up this very long post with this:
This car makes people smile! Whether they are 8 years old or 80 years old, male or female--- they all smile when they see it. It's always nice to see people smile, so I count that a huge win!

Again, thanks to everyone on this amazing forum!

OB6
07-12-2023, 12:38 PM
Aaron you've done an amazing job and I can't believe how fast you got it done. Glad to hear it's meeting or exceeding your expectations. Well done. Thanks for keeping us posted.

GoDadGo
07-12-2023, 01:00 PM
And The Cool Part Is Your Journey Has Just Begun!

Also, consider getting some Stage-8 locking bolts for your headers.

https://www.summitracing.com/search?N=brand%3Astage-8-locking-fasteners%2Bpart-type%3Aheader-fasteners%2Bfastener-style%3Alocking-bolt&SortBy=BestKeywordMatch&SortOrder=Ascending&keyword=header%20locking%20bolts%20

Just make sure that they are for a Ford!

danmas
07-12-2023, 01:44 PM
I thought I'd post a few of my thoughts and observations after the first 500 miles on my Roaster.
...
So I'm not without a few issues (aside from those two header bolts loosening).
My large size 12 triple E sized Fred Flintstone feet have made learning the pedal spacing a bit challenging-- although I'm figuring it out. I'm very glad I extended my foot box next to the go pedal. This has definitely helped.
...


I have a similar issue in terms of big foot syndrome. I have been looking for a couple of pointers on how to extend the foot box and so far coming up dry. Any pointers to your build or others that have come up with a way to make as much space as humanly possible for a wookie?

Thanks!
Dan

AA-ron
07-12-2023, 01:50 PM
I have a similar issue in terms of big foot syndrome. I have been looking for a couple of pointers on how to extend the foot box and so far coming up dry. Any pointers to your build or others that have come up with a way to make as much space as humanly possible for a wookie?

Thanks!
Dan

Hi Dan,
My foot box extension definitely helped. I added about 2" to the right of the gas pedal and it made it more comfortable. Aside from that, I moved the pedal on the clutch as far to the right as possible. That help with the clutch/brake spacing. Here's a link to my video on building the foot box extension. There are lots of ways to do this, I found this to be a way that worked well after everything was already installed (including the engine).
https://youtu.be/Fe9SPmhDA9o

AA-ron
07-12-2023, 01:51 PM
And The Cool Part Is Your Journey Has Just Begun!

Also, consider getting some Stage-8 locking bolts for your headers.

https://www.summitracing.com/search?N=brand%3Astage-8-locking-fasteners%2Bpart-type%3Aheader-fasteners%2Bfastener-style%3Alocking-bolt&SortBy=BestKeywordMatch&SortOrder=Ascending&keyword=header%20locking%20bolts%20

Just make sure that they are for a Ford!

Oh I like those bolts-- I haven't seen those before. I will be ordering a set ASAP. Thanks

MB750
07-12-2023, 06:50 PM
I really like how you modified your footbox for the fat feet. I may copy that. I don't have fat feet, but I'd like a little more breathing room.

danmas
07-12-2023, 06:53 PM
Hi Dan,
My foot box extension definitely helped. I added about 2" to the right of the gas pedal and it made it more comfortable. Aside from that, I moved the pedal on the clutch as far to the right as possible. That help with the clutch/brake spacing. Here's a link to my video on building the foot box extension. There are lots of ways to do this, I found this to be a way that worked well after everything was already installed (including the engine).
https://youtu.be/Fe9SPmhDA9o
You are quite talented. I definitely need to do that modification, but I’m pretty certain my mod will be ugly in comparison. Thanks for the video. FFMetal used to make these but they no longer do sadly. I will try it and then go find a sheet metal guy when I fail….

Blitzboy54
07-13-2023, 07:00 AM
My header bolt issue was a by product of the gasket over several heat cycles compressing. I would assume that created slip which allowed them to start vibrating loose. The last one I torqued them down seemed to have done the trick.

Interestingly enough if I was to do a post build driving report it would be a clone of yours. I was also shocked at how it handled. Tight as a description is almost a disservice. It’s like nothing I’ve over driven before. No body role at corners that would scare the hell out of me at half the speed in a normal car.

I have a similar engine and felt there was adequate power

CraigS
07-13-2023, 08:36 AM
If you didn't do a solid gas pedal linkage you may want to. If you get bell cranks that are either multihole or slotted you can mess around with the ratio of pedal movement to carb movement. A longer pedal travel will all more precise carb control. Reheader bolts. If you ever blow a header gasket skip a new one. Remove the headers so you can file or grind to make the mating surface perfectly flat. Use one of the high temp Permatex sealers instead of a gasket.
https://www.westmarine.com/permatex-permatex-ultra-copper-maximum-temperature-rtv-silicone-gasket-maker-304800.html?msclkid=c1fcdfef719019f85627bb408d28a1 76&utm_source=bing&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=BSC%3EBrand%3EEngineSystems&utm_term=4577816667596422&utm_content=EngineSystems

AA-ron
07-13-2023, 10:45 AM
If you didn't do a solid gas pedal linkage you may want to. If you get bell cranks that are either multihole or slotted you can mess around with the ratio of pedal movement to carb movement. A longer pedal travel will all more precise carb control. Reheader bolts. If you ever blow a header gasket skip a new one. Remove the headers so you can file or grind to make the mating surface perfectly flat. Use one of the high temp Permatex sealers instead of a gasket.
https://www.westmarine.com/permatex-permatex-ultra-copper-maximum-temperature-rtv-silicone-gasket-maker-304800.html?msclkid=c1fcdfef719019f85627bb408d28a1 76&utm_source=bing&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=BSC%3EBrand%3EEngineSystems&utm_term=4577816667596422&utm_content=EngineSystems

Yes I used the Forte throttle linkage and love it. I've been playing around with it to dial it in just as I'd like.
Thanks for the advise on the header bolts!

gbranham
07-13-2023, 11:08 AM
Stage 8 mechanically-locking header bolts are your best friend.