Inspection of unfinished build and have questions

[kirby]

I bought a partially complete build that was ordered in 2016. It hase irs, coyote and five speed. As I was inspecting the car I had a couple of questions.

Kit is from 2016
Motor is a Gen 2.0 Coyote from late 2017.

1. The drive shaft is contacting a bracket that holds cables for the ebrake. Is this common? Should I just bend or trim and move on?
2. No integration of wiring was completed and I think I have it sorted out. Is there a good reference other than the factory five manual and Ford performance pack for wiring? I feel like I have two manuals telling me different things.
3. The gauge wiring instructions I have and the gauges I have don't quite add up. Is everyone cutting the connections at the back of the gauges to integrate the dash wiring harness?
4. There is an inline fuel pump installed which is not to my liking. Anybody have recommendations for an in tank pump?
4A. Is there a good source for a prebent supply line? (Current one has an inline pump...I could just patch it but hate to do that on a fuel system).
5. The manual mentions soldering for most connections. I have always used watertight butt connectors and heat shrink tubing on top. Is soldering necessary?
6. For the tach the manual suggest tapping into the "yellow" wire on the coil on plug assembly for the #3 cylinder. Can you guys confirm this is correct? #3 is on the passenger side and I would much rather tap the #6. Is it still the yellow wire?

This forum is great and I am looking forward to learning and hopefully contributing also.

[hineas]

Here are my $0.02.

1. Fix the bracket. Move it, bend it, trim it, whatever it takes. It definitely should not be rubbing the drive shaft.

2. I don't have a good answer. Some of this depends on your engine. Wiring a coyote is different than a carb and is different than EFI.

3. Can you be more specific? I know a lot of people shorten wires to clean it up (don't have excess that requires coiling up), is this what you mean?

4. I run an inline, in no help there.

5. I used solder on some but most of my connections were either butt connectors or spade connectors with shrink wrap. A lot of people use weatherpack connects. Just make sure you do a good connection.

6. I am no help. I have an EFI engine from BluePrint and their instructions for that engine was to pull the tach signal from the coil.

Hopefully others on the forum have more answers.

[hineas]

It would be helpful if you let us know more info about the build. For example, the coyote requires a higher flow fuel pump and larger fuel line than a carb 302.

[michael everson]

give me a call, I can walk you through all your questions.
Mike
508-577-2200

[edwardb]

My comments:

1. Do what is necessary to eliminate the rubbing.

2. Factory Five has specific Coyote instructions for your version Coyote (you don’t mention which one you have) and Ford Performance has instructions for their control pack if that’s what you have. Together everything is addressed. They don’t contradict each other. But there are some differences that are your choice. Lots of build threads and Coyote installation threads on here to help as well. Ask specific questions if necessary.

3. Depending on the brand gauges you have and the revision level of your harness, it may be necessary to cut harness wires to connect. There are quite a few variations.

4. My go-to for an in-tank pump for the Coyote is a Pro-M fuel pump hangar (https://www.promracing.com/high-flow-fuel-pump-hanger-for-1986-1997-mustangs.html) and a Walbro GSS340BX 255 lph pump. Again, multiple variations. But I’ve used this combination several times and it’s excellent. You’ll need to make up your own connection to remove the in-line pump.

5. You’ll get lots of opinions about soldering. Done well it’s OK (my opinion) but not necessary with proper parts and crimping. Again, builder’s choice. I don’t use butt connectors but that’s strictly a personal opinion/choice. I very lightly solder and cover with sealed shrink sleeve.

6. You can use any of the eight coil-on-plug wires for the tach. Doesn’t matter. Each harness has three wires. All have the same color for positive and negative wires. And all have a different color for the signal wire. You need the signal wire for whichever one you choose to use.

[DW66]

I suggest taking Mike up on his offer. You can't go wrong.

Dave

[kirby]

Thank you all for the quick reply's. Mike you will be getting a call shortly.

Updated first post to be more clear on the kit description and motor.

For the specific wiring I am questioning the power distribution. I think I have it part way figured out. See sketch below. Is this correct?

[edwardb]

Thank you all for the quick reply's. Mike you will be getting a call shortly.

Updated first post to be more clear on the kit description and motor.

For the specific wiring I am questioning the power distribution. I think I have it part way figured out. See sketch below. Is this correct?

It might be OK. But there's some detail missing from your diagram. I assume the "2 pole connection" is a master disconnect switch? Need to know what's attached to each lug to offer an opinion. Also, the 250 AMP fuse (supplied as part of the Ford Coyote control pack) should be in the +12V main power from the battery to the PDB. You show it in that circuit but not clear it would actually interrupt the power. By "engine harness" I assume you mean the chassis harness which for many Factory Five builds is the kit supplied Ron Francis harness.

FWIW, my builds and recommendation when using a master disconnect is to put the chassis harness and starter on the switched side of the master disconnect and the Coyote and battery on the unswitched side. Switch = off Coyote system is always powered as recommended by Ford Performance. But car will not start or run. Switch = on everything is powered.

[kirby]

It might be OK. But there's some detail missing from your diagram. I assume the "2 pole connection" is a master disconnect switch? Need to know what's attached to each lug to offer an opinion. Also, the 250 AMP fuse (supplied as part of the Ford Coyote control pack) should be in the +12V main power from the battery to the PDB. You show it in that circuit but not clear it would actually interrupt the power. By "engine harness" I assume you mean the chassis harness which for many Factory Five builds is the kit supplied Ron Francis harness.

FWIW, my builds and recommendation when using a master disconnect is to put the chassis harness and starter on the switched side of the master disconnect and the Coyote and battery on the unswitched side. Switch = off Coyote system is always powered as recommended by Ford Performance. But car will not start or run. Switch = on everything is powered.

This is just the Ford power distribution side. The 2 pole connector is labelled as it is in the for power packanual. Once I figure this out I will add in the ron Francis side.

[kirby]

give me a call, I can walk you through all your questions.
Mike
508-577-2200

Thank you so much for taking time to chat with me today. I really appreciate all of the insight and knowledge.