POR-15 Recommendations

[jbow03]

Since I have a couple teenagers with plenty of time this summer, I opted for a bare-metal frame from FFR.

Intend on going the POR-15 route in the garage and looking at their website there are a number of possible paths to go down. Some include cleaners, degreasers, metal prep, rust removers, primers, topcoat.

I am reading through their literature currently, but also wondered if there are any recommendations that folks have on here.

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[Railroad]

I like the foam brushes. They do not last for the complete job, buy a value pack. POR flows out very good.

[jbow03]

I like the foam brushes. They do not last for the complete job, buy a value pack. POR flows out very good.

Thanks, do you remember which of the steps in their system you used? All of them (cleaner=>metal prep=>rust coat=>primer=>top coat)? Strait to paint? Thanks!

[J R Jones]

I have been using POR for a long time. Cleaner is cleaner, I use whatever depending on what is on the metal. Metal Prep is a mild type of phosphoric acid that cleans and neutralizes rust. It washes off with water and leaves a protective paint friendly finish.
Primer is tough as hell but it is thick, slow to dry and drips a lot. It does thin out on edges and some surfaces. Brushing is acceptable in non-exposed areas but is not completely smooth. Spray application works. Gloss primer is durable in unseen areas but it is UV sensitive and sun exposed surfaces require top coat. I uses a lot of semi-gloss black.
I had a bad experience with POR rattle can black Top Coat. I did all my suspension parts with POR primer and top coat. I got a run on a shock adsorber. I wet sanded it out and when I applied wax/grease remover prior to another top coat, the top coat came off on the rag. I won't tolerate that on parts that must be cleaned. I shot clear urethane over all the POR for protection. I wrote POR about this incident. They were surprised but did nothing. jim

[Hoooper]

You need to use the metal prep on a bare frame, then por. Por won't adhere very well to clean bare metal without the prep

[Ted G]

Some POR will fade with sun exposure. Although most of your frame will be hidden from the sun, there may be a few part exposed during shows, cars and coffee, etc. These areas would be near the door hinges, top engine compartment rails and the ones below that and possibly the 4" tubes in the engine bay. POR's engine enamel is UV protected. You may want to consider that version of POR.

[Rdone585]

I put the standard POR15 on the roll bars (the entire frame also). I worried about the UV so I tried the top coat over it on the roll bars. I soon removed the top coat because it started looking bad and recoated with just the POR15 and decided lets see what happens. After 6 years in the FL sun and now many years in the Midwest I'm still happy with it. Still a dull gloss and very tough. Doesn't scratch even after multiple times mounting a GoPro on them.
As a note, I would rethink paint with POR15 in a closed area. You need really good ventilation. I sprayed in the back yard, wore a full coverage suit and a full face mask. I put on 2 coats spraying. I'm sure I lost a lot because of spraying in an open location, but I didn't have a paint booth type setup with sufficient ventilation.

[jbow03]

Ok, thanks a ton for the input so far! My plan for the frame:

Cleaner Degreaser => Metal Prep => Por (Chassis Black)

As for the fumes, I was planing on rolling the frame out for each of the prep steps then apply Por with a brush and the garage doors open. Was not considering spraying.

[J R Jones]

Chassis Black is a top coat and may not adhere or stop rust as effectively as primer.
The fumes are very strong, my wife complains from two floors away with closed doors.
The paint will cure in the can after you open it. Once the cover is re-installed it will not come off.
The only way to save the paint for subsequent use is to leave the cover on, punch two small holes and seal them with self-tapping (metal roofing) screws with rubber seals under the screw heads. squirt out as much as you need in a throw-away dish. Brushes are throw-away as well.
POR is not like Rustoleum.
jim

[narly1]

After going through the exercise of trying to strip the powder coat off of some of the suspension parts that came with my kit I'm not 100 convinced that POR15 is a better alternative for our frames (and I've used POR15 too).

IMO POR15 is best used in cases where you can't clean the metal to the point where it's 100% corrosion free.

Earl

[jbow03]

Chassis Black is a top coat and may not adhere or stop rust as effectively as primer.
The fumes are very strong, my wife complains from two floors away with closed doors.
The paint will cure in the can after you open it. Once the cover is re-installed it will not come off.
The only way to save the paint for subsequent use is to leave the cover on, punch two small holes and seal them with self-tapping (metal roofing) screws with rubber seals under the screw heads. squirt out as much as you need in a throw-away dish. Brushes are throw-away as well.
POR is not like Rustoleum.
jim

Thanks Jim, I swear I'm not usually this dense but I've finally found the PDF flyer that outlines the process for these products.

Cleaner => Metal Prep => Rust Preventative Coating => Top Coat

I think I've got it now! Plan to apply by brush.

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