Florin Hill Roadster Thread

[nashuanuke]

Ok gents, kit's ordered, completion date in September.

Full kit.
Sourced a Gen III Coyote from Mike Forte (what a character and he deserves all the accolades I see on here), fully trimmed with the TKX transmission.
Went with the power steering, Mike setting up the pump for me, FF kit for the rest.
Also opted for IRS, gist from the folks here is it's a little more money, not much more difficulty in setting up, and it's one of those things that you'll wish you did if you didn't.
Everything else basically sourced from FF: wheels, tires (went with the 17), in tank fuel etc.

My personal flourish (I hope) is to finish the dash and maybe some of the interior with wood veneer, kind of give it a nautical look, or a classic looking British roaster. Any advice folks have on using wood, I'll take it.

I'm in PA and looking at the vehicle inspection requirements, I believe I'll need windshield wipers (which I got from FF) and side pipe heat shields (I found some on Finish Line accessories). From the inspection guide, it looks like I don't need self-cancelling turn signals, but I feel like I saw someone saying you did in PA.

I found In Tune Autoworks in Harrisburg that seems to work with Mustangs (they look like they are next door to CJ's Pony Parts, who also sells aftermarket Mustang parts), I haven't called to find out, but I'm hoping they can tune my Coyote for me.

Also, my garage is small, it barely fits two cars. I've got the body buck built and on stilts to put stuff underneath so I think I'll make it. But any advice folks have on working on one of these in tight spaces, I'll take it.

Any case, I'm looking forward to posting on here and I'll be in touch:)

[dbo_texas]

Congrats on the kit order! Welcome to the madness. Just a suggestions for the body - if you don't plan to need it frequently during the build (and you likely won't until you are ready to start doing body fitment), the thought of having to roll the body buck out of the way every time I wanted to quickly work on the car didn't appeal to me. I saw some folks hoisted the body to the garage ceiling to get it out of the way. So I did the same. For less than $20 you can get some cheap bicycle hoists on Amazon and just lift the body up. Then lower it when you are ready for it. Of course this assumes your ceiling is tall enough to put the body above 6.5 ft or so. I'm working in a 2.5 car garage, and my wife parks her car on one side, so I have 1.5 car width for my build/tools. I did add the plywood cutouts for the front & rear (not shown in the pics) because I was worried about warping the body, so now it is fully supported but still hanging from the ceiling. Here are some pics:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=152538&d=1629685558
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=152543&d=1629685599
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=152542&d=1629685599

[nashuanuke]

Congrats on the kit order! Welcome to the madness. Just a suggestions for the body - if you don't plan to need it frequently during the build (and you likely won't until you are ready to start doing body fitment), the thought of having to roll the body buck out of the way every time I wanted to quickly work on the car didn't appeal to me. I saw some folks hoisted the body to the garage ceiling to get it out of the way. So I did the same. For less than $20 you can get some cheap bicycle hoists on Amazon and just lift the body up. Then lower it when you are ready for it. Of course this assumes your ceiling is tall enough to put the body above 6.5 ft or so. I'm working in a 2.5 car garage, and my wife parks her car on one side, so I have 1.5 car width for my build/tools. I did add the plywood cutouts for the front & rear (not shown in the pics) because I was worried about warping the body, so now it is fully supported but still hanging from the ceiling. Here are some pics:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=152538&d=1629685558
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=152543&d=1629685599
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=152542&d=1629685599

Thanks Darryl, I've seen that and will keep it in my back pocket.

[Mike.Bray]

I hoisted mine up to the ceiling and could walk under it. If I did it again I probably wouldn't do a full on buck, it weighed more than the body. I would just use my 4 hoists and hook them to the wheel openings.

https://www.imagecoast.com/images/MichaelBray1/20220527160647medium.jpg

[460.465USMC]

Welcome aboard! I think you're in for a great adventure and a lot of fun. I also have a Gen 3 Coyote and TKO from Forte.

Times 3 on the ceiling storage. I know it's not for everyone, as each situation is unique. But it worked great for me. I did not build or use a body buck, and had it suspended ~15 months. It also allows me to put the body on/off by myself.

September will be here before you know it.

[nashuanuke]

Update: Coyote is here. Mike Forte was great at getting the thing all the way to a shipping terminal just a couple of miles away. I've planned a lot of aspects of this build to the minute detail but hadn't quite figured out how to get the engine from the warehouse to my garage. I rented a trailer, the warehouse loaded it. Then it sat in my driveway while I realized I had no way to get it off the trailer. Finally got an engine hoist, broke down the crate in the trailer, lifted it out, and got it into the garage. So for other folks in the future, there's your plan, trailer and hoist, oh, and each was like $25 to rent for the day, so not too bad.

Last note, I made through the whole ordeal without hurting myself until I was breaking down the hoist to return it and dropped one of its legs on my toe. I recommend safety toes if you're doing anything that involves heavy stuff.

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[gbranham]

Congrats! Consider buying a cherry picker; you'll need it again. And they don't take up too much room when broken down. Savor your build!

[egchewy79]

Update: Coyote is here. Mike Forte was great at getting the thing all the way to a shipping terminal just a couple of miles away. I've planned a lot of aspects of this build to the minute detail but hadn't quite figured out how to get the engine from the warehouse to my garage. I rented a trailer, the warehouse loaded it. Then it sat in my driveway while I realized I had no way to get it off the trailer. Finally got an engine hoist, broke down the crate in the trailer, lifted it out, and got it into the garage. So for other folks in the future, there's your plan, trailer and hoist, oh, and each was like $25 to rent for the day, so not too bad.

Last note, I made through the whole ordeal without hurting myself until I was breaking down the hoist to return it and dropped one of its legs on my toe. I recommend safety toes if you're doing anything that involves heavy stuff.

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Ha, reminds me of this one time I bought a grill from Lowes and couldn't fit it in my 2d accord that I drove there in. Ended up unboxing the grill outside the store and putting the large shell of the grill in the front w/ the seat reclined all the way back.


Congrats! Consider buying a cherry picker; you'll need it again. And they don't take up too much room when broken down. Savor your build!

Get a 2T harbor freight hoist. 1T doesn't have enough reach to easily get the motor in from the front. ask me know I know.

[nashuanuke]

Get a 2T harbor freight hoist. 1T doesn't have enough reach to easily get the motor in from the front. ask me know I know.[/QUOTE]

I've seen many lessons learned about making sure to use a 2T versus 1T. Good advice.

[Sarcasticshrub]

Also, my garage is small, it barely fits two cars.

I feel ya. Two cars in the garage would be a luxury for me.

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It would be nice to have room for the hoist but they can be rented as well.

[nashuanuke]

My neighborhood is too tight to fit the Stewart 18 wheeler, so I'm meeting them close by with a trailer. I'm renting the trailer and am planning to drop the frame directly onto it for the short trip home. I built a wooden dolly with some hefty wheels to get it from the trailer into the garage. Does anyone have any other advice? How hard will it be to get the frame lifted onto the dolly without the Stewart winch? Can i do it with just a jack and some jack stands?

[egchewy79]

you'd be surprised at how relatively light the frame is without all the stuff attached yet. I bet you can just lift it from 4 corners w/ the help of 3 others.

[nashuanuke]

you'd be surprised at how relatively light the frame is without all the stuff attached yet. I bet you can just lift it from 4 corners w/ the help of 3 others.

This is what I was thinking, but thought I'd ask. Thanks!

[nashuanuke]

I'm going to the build school this weekend. Any advice? Hopefully not "don't bother.":rolleyes:

[Railroad]

I'm going to the build school this weekend. Any advice? Hopefully not "don't bother.":rolleyes:
Use phone camera or take a camera, I have read.

[nashuanuke]

Build school out of the way. Great experience. If anything, it made me realize I've prepared well for this. My trick that I think will work well: I have Microsoft OneNote on my phone. Anytime they gave a trick or tip not in the instruction manual, I snapped a photo and put it with tip into OneNote. Once I got home, it was all waiting for me on my laptop.

Stewart called, car shows up Thursday or Friday. My neighborhood streets are too narrow, so I'm meeting the truck nearby. I'm renting a trailer and built a dolly with some pretty hefty casters. I'm hoping to drop the car right on the dolly and secure it to the trailer for the mile drive to my garage. Depending on the size of the trailer, I'm fairly certain I'll have to make two trips to get all the boxes back.

[nashuanuke]

Alright, car's finally here. I do not suggest using a john boat trailer if you're driving more than a half a mile, but for me, it worked out perfectly. Got the body on the buck, I stuck to the plans FF provides to a certain degree, but made a couple of audibles based on scrap wood I had around and wanting to prop it up higher. The one thing I didn't anticipate is that the supports on the side need to be in deeper so they don't interfere with the side of the body. Some quick carpentry and I solved that issue. Now on to removing the panels and getting it onto the dolly to start work.
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[gbranham]

I did the exact same thing with the side supports. Hah! Had to make some quick adjustments.

[nashuanuke]

one funny anecdote, I have already experienced the pointing and staring, just driving the kit through my neighborhood guys were stopping what they were doing to watch me pull it by on a trailer.

[nashuanuke]

ok, question, what do I do with these nuts? Couldn't find anything in the manual and I don't feel right just torquing them to the spec in the back. Right now I've just got them snug.

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[nashuanuke]

ok, question, what do I do with these nuts? Couldn't find anything in the manual and I don't feel right just torquing them to the spec in the back. Right now I've just got them snug.

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Reply on other thread said snug them tight.

[egchewy79]

yup. tight enough for the arm to move but not fall on it's own. too tight and you'll crush the nylon washers and the grooves in them that help disperse grease.

[nashuanuke]

Ok, IFS complete. Lessons:

1. needed a bigger torque wrench (150 ft-lbs), also, Harbor Freight's torque wrench doesn't seem to work at all.
2. the hub nuts call for 250 ft-lbs, recommendation from the build school is torque them as high as you can go, then just ask the shop to do it for you when you take it in for alignment. I loosely attached the dust covers for now.
3. needed a 12-point socket for the brake cylinder bolts
4. I spent a lot of time making sure the upper control arms were properly aligned on the bench, only to have to loosen everything to get the spindle attached.
5. I think the steering arms are on right, I guess I'll find out shortly.
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edit: not sure why the pics keep uploading rotated, I'll work on that

[egchewy79]

make sure that the taper on the steering arms are bigger on the bottom. very easy to overlook until you try to insert your lower ball joint.

[nashuanuke]

I'm sinking those rear wheel studs now using an impact driver and a lug nut and washer per the instructions. It's working...but I'm destroying the washer in the process, replacing the washer isn't hard, I'm just concerned about damaging something else. And it's slow going. I get one or two done and the battery on the impact driver is dead.

I'm finding it interesting that the instructions tell me to torque the bolts to 100 ft lbs, as if I'm using everything I've got just to get them into the hub

edit: and I cross threaded one, figures

[BRRT]

Ok, IFS complete. Lessons:

1. needed a bigger torque wrench (150 ft-lbs), also, Harbor Freight's torque wrench doesn't seem to work at all.
2. the hub nuts call for 250 ft-lbs, recommendation from the build school is torque them as high as you can go, then just ask the shop to do it for you when you take it in for alignment. I loosely attached the dust covers for now.
3. needed a 12-point socket for the brake cylinder bolts
4. I spent a lot of time making sure the upper control arms were properly aligned on the bench, only to have to loosen everything to get the spindle attached.
5. I think the steering arms are on right, I guess I'll find out shortly.
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edit: not sure why the pics keep uploading rotated, I'll work on that

Many builders have the upper ball joint grease boots split. The easy fix is the Energy Suspension boots. Replace the uppers, usually the lowers are fine.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000CN9AQU/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

[nashuanuke]

Many builders have the upper ball joint grease boots split. The easy fix is the Energy Suspension boots. Replace the uppers, usually the lowers are fine.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000CN9AQU/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

good advice, thx

[nashuanuke]

Alright, I got replacement studs since I stripped one of the ones that came with the kit. These seemed to match the measurements. And I have to say, it went in much easier than the kit ones. Doesn't seem to want to come out. Anyone know if these are good?
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Edit: Well in any case, all are installed, two of them are from this batch, the rest from the replacements FFR supplied. Hopefully my rear wheel doesn't fly off.

[nashuanuke]

5. I think the steering arms are on right, I guess I'll find out shortly.


they weren't right, had the taper up. But the steering's in.
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[nashuanuke]

delayed getting the rear in, was missing the two long bolts for attaching the rear differential. But the folks at FFR are very reasonable when it comes to little things, in the mail now.

[nashuanuke]

started on footbox, I'm finding the dispersion of fasteners a little annoying, some are with the components in their box, others are with the other fasteners. For example, one of the 1/4 bolts for the lower mount was in the box, the other I had to get from the fasteners, along with the washers and nuts. In any case, got it all in then moved on to the brake cylinders. Lesson learned, don't torque these 90 degree connections too hard, and Summit has spares they'll sell you for about $5.
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[nashuanuke]

delayed getting the rear in, was missing the two long bolts for attaching the rear differential. But the folks at FFR are very reasonable when it comes to little things, in the mail now.

bolts came, thanks the folks at FFR. And rear dfferential's in, along with the upper and lower control arms (those are big, and have a tight clearance, I ended up having to file one of the bushings down just to get it in).
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[nashuanuke]

I am now youtube educated on brake pad installation and learned that if you can't get the damn brake pads into the calipers, you not only can, but should grind the mounts down a little bit so they slide smoothly. If you have to force the pad in, then they most likely won't engage smoothly when braking and you'll get uneven wear and even potentially issues with them working correctly.

[nashuanuke]

Been a while since an update. Rear wheels finally done. Willwood pedal assembly done. Passenger footbox as well. I hope to finish the drive side footbox and get started on the fuel system and brake lines. Based on the recommendation from the build school. I got an extra brake reservoir as a part of the FFR black Friday sale.
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[nashuanuke]

started on the fuel tank. I went for the FFR in tank pump. For instructions, it's split between the manual, an electronic link for the EFI fuel system and a piece of paper that comes with the pump that was made in Taiwan and looks like something you'd order off of Ali Baba. From what I can tell, FFR modifies the pump and adds some parts, with no change to the instructions, so you just kind of have to figure things out. Oh, and good god, I started to attach the hose from the pump discharge to connection on the diaphragm and noticed something wedged in it. Buried, almost out of sight, was one of the electrical connections. I'm just imagining getting that tank buttoned up and engine installed and somewhere down the line having issues with fuel flow and being baffled and having to take it all apart.

[nashuanuke]

I posted this in the main room, but I've finished the pedals. The coyote accelerator is about as tight a clearance as physically possible. And that's with trimming the plastic on the pedal mount down to the edge of the metal mount and widening the upper metal mounting hole to get everything to fit. The steering column is in there, but man is it tight.
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[nashuanuke]

started on the fuel tank. I went for the FFR in tank pump.

So I chucked the FFR in tank pump after reviewing the forum. Went with the Pro-M hanger and a pump from Summit. Better fit, AN fittings feel better. Cost more...

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[BRRT]

It might be the light, but it don't look like you flattened out the tank flange where it interfaces with the frame. Don't forget the little plastic inserts that go in the down tubes.

[nashuanuke]

they came pre bent interestingly enough. I guess I should say all but the driver's side rear was, and that's the one you're probably seeing. It didn't interfere, so I didn't worry about it. And yeah, those inserts are in, thanks.

[nashuanuke]

Brake reservoirs are in and connected. I bought some sheet metal off of Amazon as a back plate for them. Pieces were cheap enough but well made: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0B8NLBZLZ?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details. I gnarled up the footbox front panel drilling the upper hole for the brake line fittings. But the fitting is in, just a little crooked.
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One question, the banjo fittings for the front brakes have these crush washers to put in, but they also had some brass or copper washers already on the brake cylinders. I'm thinking I keep the the two washers on the cylinder, plus the crush washers. Anyone know?
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[zarnold]

Wait, are you asking if you should use two sets of washers on the banjo bolt? Nope, only one set (there are double banjos, where you need 4 washers, but that's another application).

[Railroad]

I would not double stack the washers, due to the amount of thread engagement you will lose. Also, just another place to leak, no advantage.
Use either set of washers one of each side of the banjo fitting.
good luck,

[nashuanuke]

I would not double stack the washers, due to the amount of thread engagement you will lose. Also, just another place to leak, no advantage.
Use either set of washers one of each side of the banjo fitting.
good luck,

Upon reflection, I agree. I took the washers that came with the calipers out. My biggest thought was the increased chance of leakage. Thanks.

[nashuanuke]

Front brake lines in. I got cocky with the last bend into the master cylinder. It's flexed a little, but I don't think the line is compromised or obstructed. I'll defer to anyone that knows more.
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I'm also not thrilled with the passenger side, I tried to make it fancy but ran out of line and had to uncoil it. But it works...assuming I don't have interference issues later.
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[nashuanuke]

note for future builders. If you go with the "stock" 11.65" brakes in the rear. The soft lines, connections and banjo bolts all look identical...except the thread on the banjo bolts. The front brakes take a smaller thread. I put the rear bolts in both front calipers before I realized. The correct ones still fit and seem to be torqued good, I guess I'll find out if I did any irreparable damage when I bleed them.

[nashuanuke]

anybody had a cracked master cylinder before? Going to see if Willwood will help me out, discovered while bleeding them for the first time.
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[Nigel Allen]

Looks like the tapered brass fitting has been overtightened. It is easy to do. I have first hand experience.

[nashuanuke]

you can overtighten that? it's brass? Well I guess that's it.

[Mike.Bray]

Wilwood quality isn't what it used to be. One of the reasons I went with Tilton.

[nashuanuke]

Brakes...are...bled. I sprung for a vacuum system from Craftsman at Lowes. Could not keep a vacuum on the connection. I finally had my wife come out and help me do it the old fashioned way, no issues beyond a little leakage on the banjo bolts that seems to be addressed with a retorquing. Well minus the above mentioned cracked master cylinder. I found a replacement on Amazon, no shipping with Prime for those that are interested.

On to fuel system, tank and pump are in, I just need to set up the filter and run the soft lines I purchased from Summit. With the IRS, space is getting tight. I ordered this angled AN 6 fitting for the outlet of the fuel filter, I figure I'll attach it as shown here and then run the line down the passenger side frame.
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[nashuanuke]

Haven't posted in a while, I've been working on a lot of little projects...and it's been cold and nasty out. Anyways, I'm just about done routing the fuel lines. I went with braided aluminum soft lines, which I don't know how I feel about now that I am trying to bend them up into the engine compartment, I'm afraid I'm going to kink them.
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If not obvious from the previous, I've also started on the wiring. I'm putting in a speaker and a bluetooth enabled amplifier, I've managed to wire that up to the front, along with seat heaters. I'm just waiting to get the engine in before I finish wiring it to the battery (Breeze battery box already installed).

[ATTACH=CONFIG]197720

I've also started on the dash and center console. I'm going with a wood finish. I've got the veneer glued on and stained. For the console I have holes for cup holders and the seat heater switches. I plan to use the pour on finish this weekend. So far things seem to be working well, we'll see what the final finish looks like. I'll probably need to find some sort of trim for the center console, maybe a stainless steel lip.

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[nashuanuke]

Spent the weekend wrapping up a couple of loose ends. Not a lot to show for it, but it felt good to get them done. I wrapped up the fuel system, I have delivery from tank all the way to regulator. I went back and lubricated the o-rings in the fuel tank, too many people said I needed to. And I fixed the fuel tank strap bolt, which was missing its washer. Then I cleaned my shop up. Ready for the next project.

[nashuanuke]

fuel filter is in, drop drunk too, it's rough, I don't have the best tools for that, but it's smooth and will get covered in carpet.

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Engine's going in soon, I put the tires on to get the car low and stable, need to adjust the toe on the rear ones just a tad

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[F500guy]

If I got a dollar for every tool I wish I had during this build...sometimes you got make due!

[nashuanuke]

Engine's in. I won't say it was easy and I didn't ding the powder coat up a little. But not terrible. My biggest issue was the TD Motion lift brackets I bought. They make a great product if you're lifting this in and out of a Mustang, but in the MK4 the driver's side bracket comes out too far. I had to remove both my reservoirs and the steering rack as interference. And still the bracket was scraping up against the frame. This caused the engine to pitch over and mess up the alignment for the mount pins. It took a lot of back and forth before I could get it in just right, but eventually it worked. Oh and the Harbor Freight load leveler worked...but it was well, a Harbor Freight tool, I might spring for something a little sturdier next time.

Also, with the engine in, I feel like I'm off to the races getting the electrical wired up. I'll get some photos of that next. I also put in my order for cooling components (Mustang expansion tank, hoses, and Breeze radiator mounts).

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[Mike.Bray]

I found this leveler (https://www.summitracing.com/parts/wmr-w41036) worked very well, I even removed and reinstalled my engine/trans by myself using it. You can remove the handle and use a socket and ratchet or speedhandle to adjust it.

[nashuanuke]

Build update, been working right along now that the engine's in.

E-brake done, was tighter than I expected. I had to connect the lines to the handle then go to the rear and connect them to the brakes, and it took some elbow grease. Also, the "stock" 11.65" brakes have an interesting setup to get the e-brake into the coil. Took some wrestling and hammering.

Transmission is coupled to rear diff and liquids added to rear diff, transmission and engine. I pulled the drain on the rear diff and apparently FFR shipped it already with fluids added, meh, I put the same stuff right back in. For the engine priming, I used the rig from this video https://youtu.be/jBdFHSdA588?si=laXY3yTRLJu-pU0S, with this fitting https://www.amazon.com/dp/B085X68CMJ?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&th=1 that fit into the adapter for the FFR oil meter. There's a couple of videos that describe using this rig and listening for the oil coming out of the headers, the actual sound you're listening for is the air, so pump about two quarts in, then let the pump get down until you're pump air and then listen for the sound of the air moving through the oil into the uppers.

Electrical is moving along, once you get started, working with the coyote harness isn't too bad. Shout out to i.e. 427's many videos on wiring these things.

The Breeze battery box is in and battery electrical is wired (not connected), the one thing I didn't do is he for some reason provides a second ground cable from the engine block, I'd already wired the ground strap FFR provides, and didn't see a reason to do a second. Unless I'm missing something, that strap is hefty and that engine is grounded.

Power steering is plumbed, had some leaks so I've added thread sealer, hopefully it does the trick.

Coolant system is all done. Radiator installed with the Breeze mounts, UPF expansion tank is in with Mishimoto hoses for the Coyote connections. Good thing the adapter I bought for the oil primer came in a two pack, the other one was a perfect fit for the upper radiator vent. I managed to use the provided hoses to get the main lines from the engine to the radiator and back. We'll see is those hold up. The lower one feels flimsy, I'm going to try using the bracket that came with the FFR fuel filter I didn't use to mount the lower line to the cross bar for a little extra support.

[Windsor]

Power steering is plumbed, had some leaks so I've added thread sealer, hopefully it does the trick.

This will likely end up requiring more attention.

IIRC the power steering lines are o-ring style, so gooping the threads won't help. I recommend pulling it apart and looking for damaged o-rings.

[nashuanuke]

the leaks were on the AN fittings, did take some work, but seems tight now.

[nashuanuke]

First start.

The bad:
1. got smoke off the headers, didn't like that but once I realized it was expected, it burned off and was good
2. power steering, can't seem to get the air out of the system, the expansion tank keeps getting fluid out the vent. It might have finally stopped, but right when I thought things were getting better, 3 happened.
3. Blew out the FFR supplied coupling on the lower radiator hose when I raised RPMs. I think I have a good setup, minus that one weak point, I'm thinking of trying these: https://www.amazon.com/JoyTube-Radiator-Intercooler-Exchanger-Connector/dp/B0BJZ9HV92/?_encoding=UTF8&ref_=pd_wlh&pd_rd_w=8Qp0W&content-id=amzn1.sym.8204b485-11a7-46e5-99d6-924574f6f1b2&pf_rd_p=8204b485-11a7-46e5-99d6-924574f6f1b2&pf_rd_r=0AEKM1PSF7V418RSXA6N&pd_rd_wg=jq0Ma&pd_rd_r=039ecf25-f11a-43d3-94b2-38c2e48d7b77&th=1 to make that connection tighter.
4. had a small fuel leak on the Pro-M hanger pump outlet, when I tightened it the nozzle fitting broke off. They say to Counter torque it and they're right. I have my opinions about the quality of that part, but in any case, I was able to get a local welder to fix it for $30, much better than the $200 for a new hanger.
5. I don't know what FFR's intent was for the fuel line from the regulator to the rack, but whatever I thought was did not work without blowing fuel all over the engine (thankfully before it started). I bought one of these and some more AN6 hose: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BNN6HXNV?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details

Good: oil pressure was good, fan came on as expected, rest of the electrical seems to have worked.