Skinned my vinyl dash with carbon fiber

[MB750]

Some of you may have caught the damage my vinyl dash incurred. Not sure if it was from shipping, or from how I put everything back in the box after inventory, but there was a few dents in the vinyl that would not release no matter what I tried.

Instead of buying a new one, I tried something, skinning it with carbon fiber. Here's how I did it:

First, sand the hell out of the vinyl. Don't remove the vinyl, just scuff it. I used 240 grit on a mouse:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=182500&d=1680566635

Mix up some good epoxy. I bought the slow curing blend from Composite Envisions up in Wisconsin, I made about 4 ounzes and it was more than enough for both sides of the CF:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=182501&d=1680566635

Spread it out evenly. At least make it thick enough to allow the CF to absorb it:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=182502&d=1680566635

Lay down the CF. Make sure to use a roller. I also put weights in the valleys where the CF needed to bend around a curve:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=186625&d=1688161725

After you get the CF down, put another layer of epoxy down. Go as thick as you want, it'll run. Then I ignored it for 24 hrs in a warm garage.

[MB750]

Once it's dry, start cutting the openings. I used a knife at first, then worked my way around with various sized drum sanders on my die grinder:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=182503&d=1680566635

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=182507&d=1680566667

Then take some 400 grit and wet sand the epoxy to prep for clear coat. The epoxy itself doesn't take well to UV rays so the clear coat is important. Do your preferred method of surface prep, then lay down the clear:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=186633&d=1688164675

Finished product in the sun:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=186624&d=1688161272

I like it because it doesn't look as phony as that CF looking vinyl wrap.

[Ted G]

Looks great!

[gbranham]

Nice job! I really like this look, but I'm curious about glare with clear coat. Can you tell how much glare there might be out in the sun? Also curious if there's a satin/matte-type clear coat finish...something to cut the gloss just a tad.

Good work!

Greg

[MB750]

Nice job! I really like this look, but I'm curious about glare with clear coat. Can you tell how much glare there might be out in the sun? Also curious if there's a satin/matte-type clear coat finish...something to cut the gloss just a tad.

Good work!

Greg

I gave some thought about glare, but since it's a mostly flat surface and my eyes will always be above the dash (vertically) I'm not worried it'll be an issue. Yes it does tilt up a little when mounted, but we'll see. Worst case, I'll remove it and wet sand with a high grit to put a bit of a satin finish on it, but I'll see how it looks first.

I also like that even after epoxy and clear coat you can still feel the CF fibers just a little, like around the bends.

[gbranham]

I gave some thought about glare, but since it's a mostly flat surface and my eyes will always be above the dash (vertically) I'm not worried it'll be an issue. Yes it does tilt up a little when mounted, but we'll see. Worst case, I'll remove it and wet sand with a high grit to put a bit of a satin finish on it, but I'll see how it looks first.

I also like that even after epoxy and clear coat you can still feel the CF fibers just a little, like around the bends.

Yep, good thought. Quality work, sir!

[nucjd19]

Great job! I did a CF skinning post a year or so a go for the transmission tunnel. Went great. Key for me was making sure there were no micro bubbles in the epoxy and matching the flat clear that was on the dash from FFR. Excellent skill set to have :) You can skin lots of things. curious to see how your base coat binding was with something flexible like vinyl and your experience.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=151301&d=1627327004

[Gizmosrcool]

Very slick.

MB. Where did u source the CF?

[MB750]

Very slick.

MB. Where did u source the CF?

The strip for the dash was a perfect score from Amazon:

https://www.amazon.com/Carbon-Structural-Reinforcement-Concrete-Basements/dp/B0BCNQXN7D/ref=sr_1_5_mod_primary_new?c=ts&keywords=Carbon+Fiber+Sheets&qid=1688211222&s=industrial&sbo=RZvfv%2F%2FHxDF%2BO5021pAnSA%3D%3D&sr=1-5&ts_id=11260291011

It's a 3K thickness, 2x2 Twill Weave pattern. Basically the typical carbon fiber look, and just the right size for covering the dash.

I bought a larger piece from Composite Envisions for my trans tunnel cover, which is more square-shaped, but it's the same thickness and weave pattern so it'll look the same.

[MB750]

Great job! I did a CF skinning post a year or so a go for the transmission tunnel. Went great. Key for me was making sure there were no micro bubbles in the epoxy and matching the flat clear that was on the dash from FFR. Excellent skill set to have :) You can skin lots of things. curious to see how your base coat binding was with something flexible like vinyl and your experience.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=151301&d=1627327004

How did you get that satin finish? On mine, after the epoxy on the top layer dried it was as shiny as clear coat.

I watched a few videos of people skinning dashboards first. There was enough data to give me the impression the CF would easily stick to the vinyl. Besides, the vinyl is around 1/32" so it's pretty rigid to begin with, and I scuffed it up to give the epoxy something to bind to. Worst case, some delaminates, but most sticks, and since it's carbon fiber it'll stay rigid and any delamination won't be noticed.

[Jeff Kleiner]

Nice job! I really like this look, but I'm curious about glare with clear coat. Can you tell how much glare there might be out in the sun? Also curious if there's a satin/matte-type clear coat finish...something to cut the gloss just a tad.

Good work!

Greg

Greg,
My CF dash is slick full gloss and in over 15 years glare has never been an issue. That said you can add a flattening agent to the clear to reduce the sheen to whatever you want from 99%gloss all the way down to dead flat.

MB750,
Looks good!

Jeff

[MB750]

Greg,
My CF dash is slick full gloss and in over 15 years glare has never been an issue. That said you can add a flattening agent to the clear to reduce the sheen to whatever you want from 99%gloss all the way down to dead flat.

MB750,
Looks good!

Jeff

Thanks Jeff. That's good to know about the flattening agent. I plan on the same thing with my trans tunnel and I can definitely see glare being an issue there.

[nucjd19]

How did you get that satin finish? On mine, after the epoxy on the top layer dried it was as shiny as clear coat.

I watched a few videos of people skinning dashboards first. There was enough data to give me the impression the CF would easily stick to the vinyl. Besides, the vinyl is around 1/32" so it's pretty rigid to begin with, and I scuffed it up to give the epoxy something to bind to. Worst case, some delaminates, but most sticks, and since it's carbon fiber it'll stay rigid and any delamination won't be noticed.

Multiple coats of resin with block sanding down to 1200 grit if I remember correctly. then shot it with 2k semigloss clear coat. Turned out to match the dash almost like they came as a set. The only thing theoretically is Aluminum and CF able to cary a current and therefore you could have galvanic corrosion with the trans tunnel. Not a structural part so I figure it does not matter. Great job with the dash and great solution.

[MB750]

Multiple coats of resin with block sounding down to 1200 grit if I remember correctly. then shot it with 2k semigloss clear coat. Turned out to match the dash almost like they came as a set. The only thing theoretically is Aluminum and CF able to cary a current and therefore you could have galvanic corrosion with the trans tunnel. Not a structural part so I figure it does not matter. Great job with the dash and great solution.

Thanks for answering. I never would have considered a galvanic corrosion issue between aluminum and carbon fiber, but you have a point.

[gbranham]

Greg,
My CF dash is slick full gloss and in over 15 years glare has never been an issue. That said you can add a flattening agent to the clear to reduce the sheen to whatever you want from 99%gloss all the way down to dead flat.

MB750,
Looks good!

Jeff

Good to know. Thanks, Jeff!

[gbranham]

Thanks Jeff. That's good to know about the flattening agent. I plan on the same thing with my trans tunnel and I can definitely see glare being an issue there.

When I read this, the first thing I thought of was the heat from the sun...wonder if that would burn your arm?

[Jeff Kleiner]

When I read this, the first thing I thought of was the heat from the sun...wonder if that would burn your arm?

Speaking from experience, even black vinyl will burn your arm.

Jeff

[nucjd19]

Well I live in AL and was close to 100º F today and it was not a problem...but I do not tend to drive with ny arm resting there. I am either shifting or have my hands on the wheel. The black lowback Kirkey seats are different animal though LOL!

I would have not thought about Galvanic corrosion either but when researching this it is an issue for experimental planes that use those types of composites and Aluminum in structural areas. I figure if the black base coat resin dye combo if thick enough will not allow the CF to completely touch the aluminum but what do I know. Either way I am pretty sure it will not be a problem.

[mikeinatlanta]

Carbon and aluminum are on opposite ends of the galvanic scale, so the carbon will corrode it. Easy fix is to spray a non-conductive primer on the aluminum before covering with carbon. It will also stick better with the primer and if you use black it will prevent any aluminum showing through more open areas in the weave.

[MB750]

Carbon and aluminum are on opposite ends of the galvanic scale, so the carbon will corrode it. Easy fix is to spray a non-conductive primer on the aluminum before covering with carbon. It will also stick better with the primer and if you use black it will prevent any aluminum showing through more open areas in the weave.

Yes, but instead I used epoxy as the 1st layer. The dash was already black so clear epoxy was ok, and epoxy isn't electrically conductive.

[mikeinatlanta]

Yes, but instead I used epoxy as the 1st layer. The dash was already black so clear epoxy was ok, and epoxy isn't electrically conductive.

Did you allow that layer to cure before adding carbon? If not, then the fact that epoxy was used as a resin has no impact on the conductivity. I did get that your dash had already been coated with the black, but the conversation had drifted to others laying carbon on their aluminum parts.

[cv2065]

This looks great. I am planning on getting the FFR CF dash and having a glossy clear shot over that at a local body shop. Should give it the same contrast and depth as yours. Is the FFR carbon fiber dash a 'real' carbon fiber or something else?

[MB750]

This looks great. I am planning on getting the FFR CF dash and having a glossy clear shot over that at a local body shop. Should give it the same contrast and depth as yours. Is the FFR carbon fiber dash a 'real' carbon fiber or something else?

From what I can tell it's real carbon fiber. It's probably even vacuum bagged to get as much moisture out of the mold as possible as it cures. I did NOT go that far.