couple roll bar questions

[jrohrig]

1) Is Breeze still the best option out there for authentic look? Looks like a pretty good set up. I'm planning on using his, but figured I'd ask just to check.

2) When ordering the kit, should I have the holes pre cut and just adjust the holes as needed, or should I do the holes myself? (I already ordered the kit but still have time to make adjustments before it's shipped)

[boat737]

I did the Breeze roll bar. I like it a lot, and it looks better than the FFR roll bar. I did the stainless steel roll bar and had it polished, but at some point they stopped making the stainless version. I'm not sure if they offer the SS now, I don't think so. I'm not sure I would have gone with the carbon steel version. It would have needed to be chromed (or at the least, powder coated). I much prefer polished stainless (which I also did on the quick jacks, and their mounting tubes.)

I had the FFR holes and they worked fine. I had to open them up some, and when I made the holes bigger, made sure they were centered. They were close from FFR, but not exact.

[cv2065]

I'd definitely go with the pre-cut holes. If you have to widen them, much easier with a measured hole already cut. I like the Breeze 1.75" bars but having them welded and then powder coated adds to the price. I had the standard 1.5" 'paperclip' FFR roll bars the first build. This one I'll be going with the older 2" bars from FFR and cutting off 2" from their height. Height is better and the bar thickness is nice. Thanks to Mr. Craven (aka Hacksaw) for that piece of advice!

[jrohrig]

I did the Breeze roll bar. I like it a lot, and it looks better than the FFR roll bar. I did the stainless steel roll bar and had it polished, but at some point they stopped making the stainless version. I'm not sure if they offer the SS now, I don't think so. I'm not sure I would have gone with the carbon steel version. It would have needed to be chromed (or at the least, powder coated). I much prefer polished stainless (which I also did on the quick jacks, and their mounting tubes.)

I had the FFR holes and they worked fine. I had to open them up some, and when I made the holes bigger, made sure they were centered. They were close from FFR, but not exact.

Gonna paint it black, to match the black ceramic coated pipes

[Junbug]

I'd definitely go with the pre-cut holes. If you have to widen them, much easier with a measured hole already cut. I like the Breeze 1.75" bars but having them welded and then powder coated adds to the price. I had the standard 1.5" 'paperclip' FFR roll bars the first build. This one I'll be going with the older 2" bars from FFR and cutting off 2" from their height. Height is better and the bar thickness is nice. Thanks to Mr. Craven (aka Hacksaw) for that piece of advice!

I have the FFR 2” roll bars. If you cut 2” off them do they still fit/assemble the same or will you need to modify the rear mount. I assume you’d also need to make the hole for the rear support a bit larger. Thoughts?

[Jeff Kleiner]

I have the FFR 2” roll bars. If you cut 2” off them do they still fit/assemble the same or will you need to modify the rear mount. I assume you’d also need to make the hole for the rear support a bit larger. Thoughts?

If you cut that much off of them they won't engage the rear mount without fabrication and the body hole will need enlarging on one end and and filling on the other.

Jeff

[edwardb]

I used the Breeze 1.75" roll bar on my #7750 Mk4 Roadster build. Had it welded after fitted and chrome plated. Turned out beautiful and agree it's better looking than the standard Mk4 1.5" bar(s). Has to be said though -- unless you're short or sitting on very low seats, it's not going to pass the broomstick test. A shortened 1.5" bar likely will be the same. For many, including those that don't install a roll bar obviously, this isn't a consideration. Just throwing it out there and not going to argue or defend it.

[Junbug]

If you cut that much off of them they won't engage the rear mount without fabrication and the body hole will need enlarging on one end and and filling on the other.

Jeff
Thanks for confirming Jeff! The physics/trig didn’t add up to me so I appreciate your confirmation.

[GoDadGo]

I simply ground off the Weld-Bumps and used the Factory-5 Roll Bars.
The bars are bottomed out on the frame and the only issue is the angle on the 3rd leg is a tad off.
My car still passes The Broomstick Test and are cross bolted them with Grade-8 bolts.
Safety over was my biggest concern compared to the looks of the bars.
Finally, the roll bars are about about 1.5" lower and still look okay.
I'm happy, but you can be the judge.

https://youtu.be/9WEe6-wdNtA

[Ted G]

I used Breeze roll bar and love it. Yes, they only come in carbon steel now. The weld wasn't the prettiest, so I ground it down to smooth and I actually made a brushed stainless look with sandpaper and scotchbright. Then I just gave it like 6 coats of semi-gloss clear. Everyone comments on how good it looks in person.

186634 186635

[gbranham]

For what it's worth, Factory Five won't cut some holes in the body, and skip others. At least that's what they told me when I ordered in April. I wanted all body cut-outs done, except the quick jack holes. They told me it's all or nothing.

I'm also going to go with the Breeze setup, so this post is helpful.

Thanks,

Greg

[Madfor67]

I believe Breeze rollbar was designed to work with FFR's precut holes. You just have to enlarge them. Breeze rollbar has a slight rake (bend) starting from the middle of the rollbar. This was done to use the same body holes. As others have said, the biggest pain point of setting up the Breeze rollbar was welding and chroming... Chroming on the state side is very expensive and time-consuming these days.. I wish Breeze still offered SS option....

[Mike.Bray]

I have the Breeze bar and really like the look. Welded and then chromed.

https://www.imagecoast.com/images/MichaelBray1/20230327111602mediumrotated.jpg