Another body question.

[Mastertech5]

Any Gen 2 builders had this problem? The nose cone is 2 pieces as opposed to the 1 piece on the Gen1. Each side is like 4" too short to reach the grill varying from 4 to 2 inches at an angle. I tried to tilt the grill to match the angle but they are still too short. When I tilt the grill more upright to shorten the gap then the hood is too short with about 3 /4 inch gap on the cowel. When you put the pieces against the legs on the body the angle they're at doesn't put the front part at the same height of the grill. Any suggestions or should I contact FFR? I realize these cars aren't like Legos but give me enough material to work with.

[33fromSD]

I had to add material also, it's pretty typical. Working with fiberglass turned out to be a very simple process and now I find myself using it in various applications above and beyond the 33.

On the 33 I was about 1-1/2" shy to the grill on the longest part so I took aluminum sheeting, and mocked in the shape I needed, riveted that to the actual nose, then removed the nose cone, put mold release on the aluminum, and did the fiberglass work (Think I did 4 layers of glass), let it cure, removed the aluminum from the nose, and put the nose back on the 33 to finalize the gaps and did the final prep. You'll also notice I fiberglassed both nose pieces together so I have one unit, much easier to work with.

Jim

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[33fromSD]

Here is how the nose turned out after paint. Once I learned how easy fiberglass was to work with I also ended up doing a few repairs on the 33 where I wasn't happy with gaps or low spots by the tail lights, etc..

Jim

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[Mastertech5]

33fromSD, The tabs on the top rear of the side covers that you are suppose to screw/bolt to the body under the hood sides are way too thick to fit under the hood and the hood at those areas are 1/4" thick. There is no way the hood is going to fit over them. It hits the body now in those areas as I have to push it down to get the hood to sit on the cowel. Did you have that problem too? Street Rod Jim cut the tabs off and had brackets made to attach it on the back side to what I'm not sure.

[33fromSD]

33fromSD, The tabs on the top rear of the side covers that you are suppose to screw/bolt to the body under the hood sides are way too thick to fit under the hood and the hood at those areas are 1/4" thick. There is no way the hood is going to fit over them. It hits the body now in those areas as I have to push it down to get the hood to sit on the cowel. Did you have that problem too? Street Rod Jim cut the tabs off and had brackets made to attach it on the back side to what I'm not sure.

I kept my tabs, but shaved material off both on the side cover tab, and on the hood in those areas and mine fit well.

Jim

[Mastertech5]

I have 2 1/8" paint sticks under the hood in those spots to hold the hood out to make it line up with sides of the body. I need to get the hood to flatten out some at the cowel area or get some nylon wedges to force them out when closing the hood.

[33fromSD]

I have 2 1/8" paint sticks under the hood in those spots to hold the hood out to make it line up with sides of the body. I need to get the hood to flatten out some at the cowel area or get some nylon wedges to force them out when closing the hood.

Some folks have ran a brace across the back of the hood to spread out that area (far enough in to clear the cowl but as far back as possible. I was lucky, mine wasn't all that bad.

Jim

[Mastertech5]

Some folks have ran a brace across the back of the hood to spread out that area (far enough in to clear the cowl but as far back as possible. I was lucky, mine wasn't all that bad.

Jim
Good idea on the brace. I'll work on that.
I have the two halves bolted together and cut like you did. Now I know why you cut the back section down, rad hose. What kind of release agent did you use wax, spray or both? It clears the rad hose but still touches it. I'll fiberglass it on the bottom and grind the top down for better clearance. It overlaps the sides of the grill by 1/2" but misses on the bottom by about 1". I can't really move the grill anymore or the hood will not fit right. I have done fiberglass before when we worked on my grandfather's boat. I just need the supplies now. Thanks for all the info!

[33fromSD]

Good idea on the brace. I'll work on that.
I have the two halves bolted together and cut like you did. Now I know why you cut the back section down, rad hose. What kind of release agent did you use wax, spray or both? It clears the rad hose but still touches it. I'll fiberglass it on the bottom and grind the top down for better clearance. It overlaps the sides of the grill by 1/2" but misses on the bottom by about 1". I can't really move the grill anymore or the hood will not fit right. I have done fiberglass before when we worked on my grandfather's boat. I just need the supplies now. Thanks for all the info!

Can't recall the name of it but it was a paint on gel coat specific for fiberglass.

Jim