2021 Ford F150 -> XTF pre runner build log [Archive]

kabacj

06-20-2023, 09:32 PM

I'm in!

When I saw the factory five XTF at SEMA I knew it was in my future.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/DSC_1837.JPG?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/DSC_1837.JPG?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)

My experience building the GTM into a super unlimited race car that I documented here https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?6157-GTM-roll-cage-modifications-and-race-car-build-log&highlight=roll+cage+modifications

gave me a huge respect for Factory Five engineering. In the GTM kit, I was delivered an incredibly capable platform that I and others were able to build into a winning race car AND an insane street car. It was my first ever car build, my first ever race car build, and many more first ever things. The fact that I was successful was all about the foundation I started with and the community here that encouraged me and helped me along.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/albums/w389/kabacj/Factory%20Five%20GTM%20roll%20cage%20modifications/AC05E0C0-20F5-468F-9407-2BF83A822889_zpsr99nuoat.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/albums/w389/kabacj/Factory%20Five%20GTM%20roll%20cage%20modifications/AC05E0C0-20F5-468F-9407-2BF83A822889_zpsr99nuoat.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)

I have been waiting for years for a V8 raptor like the Raptor R. For me, a V8 is mandatory.

I wanted a truck that was more about the well-rounded experience vs just the bragging rights stat sheet. TRX… its cool and fast, but it’s not what I want.

I wanted a truck with all the nice infotainment features that come in a new vehicle AND next level capability on and off road. For me , cars and trucks are just as much about the total user experience as the numbers on the spec sheet. The user experience is especially important as a daily driver. Ford has invested millions and millions of dollars making the F150 into the best selling truck in America so it’s a great place to start.

Considering what I want , what are my choices? Pay a stupid premium for a raptor R. Wait and hope the Raptor R some day sells at its 109k sticker price which is still kinda high considering what you can buy for $109,000 dollars … or build exactly what I want using the Factory Five XTF… and here we are.

This will be a daily driver toy not just a weekend toy.

Its gotta jump high.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/Resized_jummptruck9.jpeg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/Resized_jummptruck9.jpeg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)

Jumping things is really fun, and having a full size pickup that can fly is unique.

Power needs to be respectable but its not going to be a drag truck. 37 inch tires really ruin your strip times so ill focus on optimizing performance as a pre runner.

Although I'm really far from the desert, the desert is one of my favorite places. Ill move west soon enough so I might as well build the truck ill want when I get there.

Step 1

Find a good F150 to base my build on. Unfortunately Ford does not make it easy to know exactly what you get on a truck, but after doing lots of research I landed on the below.

Requirements

V8- even a stock motor can be boosted to very impressive levels and sounds great

Lariat trim- I think this is the sweet spot for features that will carry over to the XTF

FX4- drive modes and drive train that are helpful in an off road truck

9.75 inch rear end 3.73 gear ratio

Max Tow package – so I get bigger rear brakes, more cooling capacity in the engine and transmission and the heavy duty 9.75 axle

360 camara- this tech is so cool and actually not common on new cars. Ford has a great system.

Sync 4 – I like the giant screen

Pro Power onboard – its handy to have a decent generator built into the truck

I was looking for a low mile truck and something that is corrosion free. I want this thing to fly apart without any difficult rusted nuts and bolts.

I cast a wide net 250 miles around my house and found 5 trucks.

I landed on this one.

10,000 miles on the clock. Got an oil change every 3000 miles according to CarFAX.

It had the panorama roof and nice sound system as a plus.

it has the tow package , but the hitch is pristine... It never towed anything.

It barely had anything in the bed

And the body is absolutely perfect.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_9827.HEIC?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_9827.HEIC?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)

I drove it home. 22.6 MPG on the 120 mile drive home. pretty good!

kabacj

06-21-2023, 05:23 AM

Now that I found a foundation for my build it was time to collect the parts needed for the kit.

When Ford builds an F150 with the Max tow package where you get bigger rear brakes, enhanced engine and transmission cooling and a heavy duty 9.75 rear axle you also typically get the 36 gallon fuel tank.

The bigger tank is definitely useful when you are pulling a load and getting poor gas milage, however the 36 gallon does not fit in the XT1. In the kit the fuel tank is relocated toward the rear of the truck and mounted perpendicular to the center line of the truck . The 36 gallon is too long to fit across the frame.

Here are the tanks side by side.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/2842C53C-5300-44F2-8929-F9B73E482786.png?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/2842C53C-5300-44F2-8929-F9B73E482786.png?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)

In addition to swapping the 26 gallon tank from a 2015 to 2023 F150 I also needed to order a 26 gallon fuel pump from Ford. Changing the fuel pump will allow the computer to calculate the distance to empty and the sending unit is calibrated to the fuel level of the 26 gallon tank.

I’ll cover the tank swap when we get to that point.

kabacj

06-21-2023, 06:29 PM

I like the idea of having a generator along with me at all times so I looked for an F150 with the pro power option. Pro power gives you two outlets with 20 amp service in the bed.

In order to get the bed off these accessories as well as the LED bed lights need to be removed.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_9956.HEIC?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_9956.HEIC?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)

The thing about any of the accessories and gizmos on this truck is everyone of them needs to be moved over to the XT-1 build or the truck complains either on the dash info screen or via the Ford Pass app or both.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/FullSizeRender.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/FullSizeRender.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)

kabacj

06-22-2023, 05:04 AM

After pulling all of the wire mounting christmas trees out of the bed the next step is to pull the bed off. This will be a father son project, so my son started pulling all of the bed bolts.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_9960.HEIC?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_9960.HEIC?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)

After pulling the tail lights there was simply one bolt holding he fuel filler pipe that needed removal.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/FullSizeRender_p896L67dNsE65zPZ5AHWR9.jpg?width=19 20&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/FullSizeRender_p896L67dNsE65zPZ5AHWR9.jpg?width=19 20&height=1080&fit=bounds)

Using an engine crane the bed was easily lifted off. From there the bed can be carried by two people without a problem.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_9968.HEIC?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_9968.HEIC?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)

Next we pressure washed the frame and drive line while keeping the open wire loom ends in a plastic bag to prevent them from getting wet.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_9969.HEIC?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_9969.HEIC?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)

kabacj

06-22-2023, 08:29 PM

With the bed off next is pulling apart the grill and fenders.

You are going to need some good trim removal tools as everything on this truck is designed for quick assembly.... but not necessarily quick disassembly.

pulling out the wheel well liners might help me see what's going on in the grill area so they came off first. Now at least I could see how things were attached.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_9973.HEIC?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_9973.HEIC?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)

next easiest thing to pull off was the bumper. lots and lots of sensors here.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_9970.HEIC?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_9970.HEIC?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)

I'm pretty sure these are part of the radar system that helps you maintain your cruise control distance as well as sees things that you are going to hit and does something.... nobody says it works super well, but whatever. Oddly it lowers your insurance premium , so it must have some usefulness.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/(edited)_IMG_9971.png?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/(edited)_IMG_9971.png?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)i

3 hours into the disassembly and we decided to call it a night. We backed the truck into the garage that we spent the earlier part of the day cleaning out. The truck JUST fits. Everything is big with this build but lets see if i can do it in one side of my garage.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_9975.HEIC?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_9975.HEIC?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)

kabacj

06-23-2023, 05:08 AM

Looks like Road and Track came out with an article on the XT1 yesterday

http://https://www.caranddriver.com/news/a44298958/ford-f-150-factory-five-xt1-kit/ (www.caranddriver.com/news/a44298958/ford-f-150-factory-five-xt1-kit/)

The next AM was a work day for me so my son was responsible for completing the front end tear down.

In no time at all I got a text with these pictures.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/70898549021_BC3BCA62-993E-4AE3-B029-2E977F042042.HEIC?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/70898549021_BC3BCA62-993E-4AE3-B029-2E977F042042.HEIC?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/70898546023_4A43C791-FC5D-4FE0-82D6-3E3E1EAFC1F4.HEIC?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/70898546023_4A43C791-FC5D-4FE0-82D6-3E3E1EAFC1F4.HEIC?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/70898550242_158AA1E6-6A0F-48A8-8082-81C0845F049B.HEIC?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/70898550242_158AA1E6-6A0F-48A8-8082-81C0845F049B.HEIC?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)

kabacj

06-23-2023, 07:45 PM

After pulling out the grill you need to remove and save the grill shutter motor for re attachment later.

I forgot to take a picture with it installed, but this is where it sits in the shutter mechanism

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_9987.HEIC?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_9987.HEIC?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)

the splines in the motor fit into the drive axles that move one left and one right shutter. All shutters are connected by a pretty elegant mechanism that snaps on and off easily

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_9988.HEIC?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_9988.HEIC?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)

Because i have been traumatized by plastic parts that break when you try to disassemble them I was a little scared to do this , but I tell you, ford has come a long way with their plastic materials science. The shutters are just pliable enough that you can bend the shutter vain in the middle by pulling on it and prying at the edge and it just pops out without breaking!! What a concept!

pry here and bend the shutter from the middle and it pops right out.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/(edited)_IMG_9990.png?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/(edited)_IMG_9990.png?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)

kabacj

06-24-2023, 07:14 AM

First question for the group.

I am being very careful to make sure to keep track of anything that is plugged in because the trucks computer seems like it does an inventory of every item that it expects to be connected at startup. I also notice that it does a verification that sensors are in range. That's a reasonable thing to do..

one of my tasks today is to plug everything back in and check the truck with a scanner and verify that the truck thinks everything is OK. After that the motor and trans come out and the cab comes off.

oddly i found this one plug that does not go to anything. The plug actually goes to the white block off which is attached to this bracket. The plug is right in the area of the headlight and if it did plug in somewhere it seems like that's where it would reach.

anyone familiar with what it is? unless you took the truck apart you probably would never see it. My google searches come up dry.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_0014.HEIC?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_0014.HEIC?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)

michael everson

06-24-2023, 08:55 AM

I cant even imagine taking such a beautiful truck apart. I would guess you can recuperate some of the cost by selling off everything you don't need?
Mike

kabacj

06-24-2023, 06:36 PM

I cant even imagine taking such a beautiful truck apart. I would guess you can recuperate some of the cost by selling off everything you don't need?
Mike

Hey Mike,

Yeah I think I can sell off the bumpers, bed, fenders stuff like that because those are the parts you most often damaged in a fender bender. All the parts are pristine condition so they should make someone happy when they swap out a damaged part.

I'm not going to lie saying It doesn't hurt me a bit to take apart such a nice truck . The truck is wonderful , but it really needs something... a little spice.

I think this project is really going to solve that problem. Haha

kabacj

06-26-2023, 04:53 AM

Because i am paranoid that somehow I messed up the electronics. The truck complains a lot when moving it around without all the sensors attached. For example, it will not go into drive when the hood open sensor is disconnected.

I plugged everything back in for a test.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/(edited)_IMG_0016.png?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/(edited)_IMG_0016.png?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)

Success!

I also got an accessory backup camera like you would use on the back of a trailer or camper shell. This will allow me to retain the 360 camera with the tailgate on or off.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_0015.HEIC?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_0015.HEIC?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)

kabacj

06-27-2023, 05:08 AM

OK now it’s time to really take the plunge of disabling the truck and getting ready for my kit delivery this week. As I said before, it’s hard to take such a nice truck and turn it into a non working pile of parts… but I know it’s going to be worth it. Here goes!

First is the exhaust. Wow that was easy. Removing the hangers from the frame and loosening the clamp the muffler twisted right off!

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_0020.HEIC?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_0020.HEIC?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_0021.HEIC?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_0021.HEIC?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)

That was EASY! The truck sounds better too.

Next is the rear end. A few more bolts and it’s free.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_0034.HEIC?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_0034.HEIC?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)

It’s probably not necessary exactly at this point in the build but it’s just two hanger bolts and the quick disconnect fuel line fittings so we also dropped the almost empty gas tank. According to the truck I had 8 miles of range but feels like there are a few gallons left in the tank.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_0038.HEIC?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_0038.HEIC?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)

Now the truck needs to come out of the garage for the next step. I dont have my kit yet which includes casters to roll the truck without a rear axle so I simply used the casters i use to jockey the cars around inside the garage under the rear springs.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_0041.HEIC?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_0041.HEIC?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)

kabacj

06-28-2023, 05:04 AM

Ok now the hard part. Getting the body off the frame. As a beta builder I’m just trying to figure this out. I’m not representing the fact that this is safe or the best way to do it. It’s just what I did . (Legal disclaimer over now on to the fun)

When researching this part I saw many videos of lifting an F150 body off the frame. Ford drop the body directly on during assembly. This should be easy… famous last words.

Since it was 5.00 in the evening on Sunday, I figured this is a good time to start lifting the body off the frame.

Step 1 was orienting the body so I could insert the factory five frame either from the back of the body or the side depending on what happens with my attempted lift. Next we get the body on jack stands

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_0043.HEIC?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_0043.HEIC?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)

We basically lowered the frame to get the body on the stands by removing the front wheels.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_0050.HEIC?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_0050.HEIC?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)

Next i inserted the lifting frame under the body. You need to get the body high enough to clear the transmission which is the highest part of the frame drivetrain assembly.
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_0051.HEIC?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_0051.HEIC?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)

Then using the engine crane and straps we slowly lifted the frame a few inches at a time resetting the 2x4 stilts at each new height.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/(edited)_IMG_0052.png?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/(edited)_IMG_0052.png?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)

And we have successful separation !!

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_0060.HEIC?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_0060.HEIC?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)

Higgybulin

06-28-2023, 05:45 AM

Definitly sketchy! But I'll give you points for ingenuity! You have my attention!
Higgy

kabacj

06-28-2023, 05:15 PM

Definitly sketchy! But I'll give you points for ingenuity! You have my attention!
Higgy

Haha. Higgy

Both my son and I had nightmares on Sunday night that we would wake up to the truck on the pavement on Monday AM.

But to be honest now that the monument to the F150 greets me every AM on my way to work and when I get home I'm getting used to the idea of having the truck body up there.

It’s actually very very stable.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_0067.HEIC?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_0067.HEIC?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)

If this giant boat is ok why isn’t a tiny truck body ok?

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_0072.PNG?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_0072.PNG?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)

Just think of the wood platform as a giant jack stand… seems kinda normal now… maybe?

This is how I convince myself stuff like this is OK. Ha

Jeff Kleiner

06-28-2023, 07:14 PM

Hey John...just sayin'

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=186508&d=1687997589

:D

Jeff

JohnK

06-28-2023, 07:23 PM

If this giant boat is ok why isn’t a tiny truck body ok?

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_0072.PNG?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_0072.PNG?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)

Is that your boat? Now you've got my attention! She's a beauty!

kabacj

06-28-2023, 07:24 PM

Hey John...just sayin'

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=186508&d=1687997589

:D

Jeff

Haha. You got me Jeff for sure. I originally planned on taking the truck down off the stand I had casters and plywood pads built into the lifting frame but. It kinda looks good to me in the driveway.

Nobody has mentioned anything to me about it, but Saturday I’m sure they all will come by to see what’s going on this time.

kabacj

06-28-2023, 07:29 PM

Is that your boat? Now you've got my attention! She's a beauty!

Hey John

No I wish that was my boat. I have a Catalina 22 with a swing keel. I lifted that boat 4 feet in the air to drop the keel and repair it. That’s why I was pretty sure I could lift an aluminum shell a few feet up. The boat still floats so hopefully the truck lands safely too.

kabacj

06-29-2023, 05:09 AM

So it’s 10.00 at night on Sunday and we got the motor and frame out from under the body. I under gunned the lifting frame. Making a 6.5 by 8 foot rectangle using only one 2/4 allowed too much flex for my comfort, so I ended up laminating another 2x4 inside the original frame to make everything much stiffer mid lift. That and figuring out how to get the frame / motor as low as possible and how to move it all around took some time.

But we got it done.
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_0062.HEIC?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_0062.HEIC?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)

It was too late to drop the body down on to the casters like I had planned so it’s going to stay there for a week.
The next step is to free the motor/ transmission and front differential from the frame.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_0073.HEIC?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_0073.HEIC?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)

I plan to lift the whole assembly up and drop it into the factory five frame that should arrive on Friday.

kabacj

06-30-2023, 05:07 AM

Today is the day!

Customer frame number two is on its way from Factory Five right now! The crew left at O dark 30 to beat the holiday traffic. I can’t wait!

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/image000000.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/image000000.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)

kabacj

06-30-2023, 04:54 PM

The guys rolled in bright and early which was excellent. Some quick teamwork and we had all of the boxes unloaded.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_0076.HEIC?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_0076.HEIC?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)

Next we rolled the frame off the flatbed adjusting the loading ramps to account for the offset of the casters.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_0081.HEIC?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_0081.HEIC?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)

In no time we were unloaded. Time to get building!!!… oh after I go to work. I really need to adjust my priorities.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_0083.HEIC?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_0083.HEIC?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)

kabacj

07-02-2023, 07:14 AM

As many of you know. The day after delivery is mostly about where am I going to put all this stuff.

After we got over that hurdle, it was time to get into the final disassembly.

First item was getting the motor free of the chassis. I am trying to avoid taking anything apart that I can, so that made lifting a bit awkward.. and quite heavy. Of course I realize now that the coyote is annoying to lift as there are lift points and hooks that make the lift easier. Oh well its been done without the proper lift hooks before. I needed to add straps all over the place to make it balance and some are just backup without much load like the one over the manifold. Ugly, but it works. I ordered the lift hooks for next time.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_0123.HEIC?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_0123.HEIC?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)

we took apart the front suspension and pulled off the hubs, uprights brakes etc to re use. We are accumulating a pretty big pile of parts that will not be reused.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_0120.HEIC?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_0120.HEIC?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)

While my son focused on disassembly. I started working on the rear axle housing. First clipping off the shock mounts as we wont need those. I love plasma cutters.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_0086.HEIC?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_0086.HEIC?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_0087.HEIC?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_0087.HEIC?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)

Then a quick clean up of the axle. removing the remainder of the lower shock mounts

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_0121.HEIC?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_0121.HEIC?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)

Then removing the rust scale on the cast iron housing. Let me tell you a needle scaler is the best thing for this job. It can get into all the nooks and crannies and makes the housing ready for paint in no time. It does make a huge racket, but it does a great job. each one of those needles acts like a hammer and pulverizes the rust leaving clean metal. Its only good on heavy metal parts as it would deform sheet metal very quickly.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_0119.HEIC?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_0119.HEIC?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)

kabacj

07-03-2023, 05:28 AM

Now that the motor is out it was time to start swapping parts directly into the XT-1 frame that I have outside.

Two bolts and the power steering rack is out of the F150 and into the XT-1

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_0118.HEIC?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_0118.HEIC?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)

The CV axles are removed to be replaced by longer units from factory five. Removal of the CV axles also make the front differential easier to move HOWEVER don't tip the differential too far toward the drivers side or gear oil will pour out. Don't ask me how I know.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_0158.HEIC?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_0158.HEIC?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)

after a little clean up, both the front diff and steering rack were installed.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_0139.HEIC?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_0139.HEIC?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)

With that out of the way now it was time to swap the frames in the garage. Out with the bare F150 frame and in with the XT1. With the XT1 in the garage it was time to drop the motor and transmission into the frame. This was a pretty easy step with the body out of the way, although all the wiring and plumbing made the process slow as I did not want to snag anything and damage it. We installed the cats and torqued everything to spec. This thing is really flying together.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/71002714680_8BC0CD2A-1F61-47DC-B1A7-74346771468D.HEIC?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/71002714680_8BC0CD2A-1F61-47DC-B1A7-74346771468D.HEIC?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)

Next on the list.....
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/(edited)_IMG_0157.png?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/(edited)_IMG_0157.png?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)

kabacj

07-04-2023, 05:18 AM

Its unbelievable that its possible to bolt on 710 hp with a factory warrantee. If ford installs this ford performance parts (its really a whipple) super charger you can get a 30,000 mile warrantee. Iv read that ford thinks it will last 100,000 miles using this tune and configuration. The internal combustion engine is not dead yet !!

Since Factory Five are a Ford Performance Parts dealer, I ordered the "Ford Performance Parts" super charger to come along with the kit. Three BIG boxes.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_0135.HEIC?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_0135.HEIC?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)

The first step of the install was to remove the stock intake manifold. Oddly some of the sound attenuation foam surrounding the fuel rails was ripped off in bits here and there. We found out were it went !

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/(edited)_IMG_0161.png?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/(edited)_IMG_0161.png?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)

Some mouse thought the valley between the heads was a good place to build a home. No poop in the valley so he did not stay there for long, but I guess this is to be expected when you get such a low mile truck . It sat in the garage a lot.

the next step is final assembly of the super charger. I guess because it comes with so many variations whipple/ Ford think its easier for the customer to add the details before install. Well that takes some time. We were being very careful to make sure we followed the instructions to the letter as this was going to be a once and done job. Things like adding the orange silicone sealing tubing and the black O ring between the intercooler and rotors are user installed items.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_0180.HEIC?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_0180.HEIC?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)

With that done it was time to drop the blower on the motor.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_0181.HEIC?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_0181.HEIC?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)

There was much rejoicing!

Set aside the fact that the user needs to do final assembly of the unit, one of the most impressive features is how factory this setup is. Look at this new thermostat housing on the left. Its clearly designed by a company with lots of resources (Ford). This housing allows me to run my dual alternator Pro Power setup and run a super charger. Very nice!

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_0165.HEIC?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_0165.HEIC?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)

Done. This job is much much easier to do on a motor that is outside the truck. Whipple really packed the blower into every space available. Sure you can do this install in the engine compartment, but when you have the motor out already I HIGHLY recommend doing the install then. Of course bigger power is available with more aggressive tunes, but then you need to get into changing the crank and beefing up the whole system to make it live a long time.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_0183.HEIC?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_0183.HEIC?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)

Erik W. Treves

07-04-2023, 06:43 AM

you will love that whipple - I had one on my last truck and had over 45,000+ miles on it and it just kept going!

J R Jones

07-04-2023, 10:40 AM

I am surprised that Ford does not call out a cam shaft appropriate for boost. That is leaving some performance on the table. How much boost does this deliver? Compression is not reduced?
My son has supercharged two Lexus V8s for a Supra; the first with an earlier Ford blower. DIY is a challenge. The second engine is (Whipple) blown hard enough that it required a stronger bottom end and reduced compression.
jim

Erik W. Treves

07-04-2023, 01:45 PM

The stock bottom ends on the these will go up to 800-1000hp all day long. My gen2 made 650hp at 12 psi - burnouts with the trailer attached... The coyotes are missing a bit of torque - but they love forced induction -

kabacj

07-05-2023, 08:11 PM

Now that the motor is complete its time to put the cab on the frame. The fourth of July was on and off thunder showers here in the northeast so we were delayed a bit getting started. The sun came out and we got to lifting

its funny how having the body 30 or so inches up is really no big deal now.. at least it does not feel like a big deal. A few lbs of 3 inch deck screws and this platform is rock solid. The boat jacks really help in the front as well as additional support points although they are time consuming to adjust as we lift. One side I was lifting with a high lift jack and the other was the engine crane lifting the back then the front. Slowly stepping up 6 inches at a time.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_0202.HEIC?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_0202.HEIC?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)

We kept resetting the legs downward every 6 or 8 inches of lift to ensure that if something failed the body does not have too far to fall. My 18 volt dewalt impact got a workout.
And like a glove! we are 43 inches up and the motor/ chassis rolls right under with loads of clearance. haha. That was easy... well not that easy, but its possible.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/(edited)_IMG_0205.png?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/(edited)_IMG_0205.png?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)

After lowering back down to 25 inches or so I need to re configure the platform to clear the transmission which is quite a bit higher than the chassis.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_0215.HEIC?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_0215.HEIC?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)

thankfully there weren't any fireworks with the lift, but now it was time to call it quits an go see some Fireworks.

dukegrad98

07-06-2023, 10:36 AM

kabacj

07-06-2023, 11:39 AM

Given the amount of labor and the amount of lumber, I'm wondering if it wouldn't be worthwhile for builders to rent a telehandler or similar equipment to simply lift the cab assembly off the Ford chassis and onto the XT1 chassis. Around here you can rent a 6,000lb telehandler for about $250/day. I've even thought about whether it would be possible to use the forks on my Deere tractor, but I'm not sure my model could handle the weight of a fully outfitted cab.

Cheers, John

I agree with you John. A forklift of some sort is a much faster and safer option.

This exercise was more about testing an idea, than getting it done the easiest or best way. I can borrow a fork lift for free from a friend.

The cab is front heavy, but it’s not especially heavy. I bet a garden tractor could lift it. Let’s find out.

I’ll pull out my racing scales and get corner weights and total weight.

kabacj

07-07-2023, 04:54 AM

Well this cab is not a feather weight! You will need a reasonable size tractor to lift it. It’s definitely above what a mini tractor is rated to lift to full height. Since the tractors are not rated for what they can lift to half height, we might need more testing :)

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_0221.HEIC?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_0221.HEIC?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)

Note that this weight includes the 2x4 platform so let’s subtract 250 lbs . 1,572 lbs. Thats pretty heavy!

The other thing to consider is the distance between the cab and the bed structure and the cab and the motor is less than one inch when the cab is on its mounts. The final fitting requires decently fine positioning. A fork lift has fine adjustment on all axes. Thats a plus.

You also can’t put the cab down fully as the bottom of the cab is concave. When supported on forks the cab is still 8 or 10 inches from home. The final drop will need to happen off jack stands using floor jacks.

Interesting results .

dukegrad98

07-07-2023, 04:51 PM

Thanks for that awesome post! I had wondered about the total weight of the cab, and now I've got a real good idea -- really appreciate that. And you're right, that's just beyond what I'd be comfortable doing with my tractor that has a loader/forks. (Unfortunately my larger tractor that could easily handle that weight lacks a loader setup.)

As far as the shape of the cab and the clearance of forks, etc... Just thinking out loud, but if you were using a telehandler, I wonder about rigging it from above? Of course that requires all its own precautions, but it lets you avoid those issues underneath when you're trying to set it down.

Thanks again for a great post and letting us follow along on your early build.

Cheers, John

kabacj

07-08-2023, 05:52 AM

As far as the shape of the cab and the clearance of forks, etc... Just thinking out loud, but if you were using a telehandler, I wonder about rigging it from above? Of course that requires all its own precautions, but it lets you avoid those issues underneath when you're trying to set it down.

Thanks again for a great post and letting us follow along on your early build.

Cheers, John

John I think its possible to lift the body from above. I think you are on to something as Ford also lift the body from above hooking into holes in the body that still allow access to the cab to frame mounting holes.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_0227.JPG?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_0227.JPG?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)

For our purposes, I think we want to use straps instead of a rigid frame so that would require some sort of spreader setup.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_0229.JPG?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_0229.JPG?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)
I
While I would not want straps pressing against the outside of the doors, you could open the doors and run the straps directly down from the spreaders under the truck and back up. Its also possible to rig up the cab like this.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_0230.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_0230.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)

the front section of the truck its plenty strong to support the truck. We lifted with a strap going to the two corners behind the headlights right above the radiator without issue. We also lifted the front using the boat jacks under the radiators. Both work fine.

kabacj

07-10-2023, 05:14 AM

Now the truck is getting heavy. The frame motor and cab are getting to be a bit much for the casters. The factory five provided casters worked great with the frame and motor, but the cab was the straw that broke the camels back. Rolling the cab became much more difficult.

I tried another set of casters I have, also not rated for 1,500 lbs each. The rubber tires rolled a little bit better on the pavement .

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_0279.HEIC?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_0279.HEIC?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)

It’s time to put the wheels back on. I’ll start with the rear axle. After clipping off the shock supports that will not be used.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_0086.HEIC?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_0086.HEIC?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_0087.HEIC?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_0087.HEIC?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)

Next the rear cover comes off and the axle brace is installed and cover replaced. Ford uses M9-1 bolts on the housing. These bolts are nearly impossible to find! Factory five sourced them , however they are not ready. I figured rather than waiting id just get some from McMaster Car. They dont even stock them! Oh well I’ll just use the Ford bolts. They are too short, but I can still catch 4 or 5 threads. Enough to compress the RTV sealant

Big gears in this 9.75 rear.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_0271.HEIC?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_0271.HEIC?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)

I got the 3.73 electronic locking rear differential as part of the FX 4 package.

After the housing bolts are installed next you need to drill out the spring pads to accept the mounting bolts for the axle brace.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/71055765591_C9D9D516-257C-4EF7-A55E-69ED4661951B.HEIC?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/71055765591_C9D9D516-257C-4EF7-A55E-69ED4661951B.HEIC?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)

Slow drill speed and cutting oil and it’s not a terrible job. Just takes some time.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_0284.HEIC?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_0284.HEIC?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)

kabacj

07-11-2023, 05:10 AM

In my effort to consolidate all the parts and organize / stage the items I need for each part of the build I probably misplaced some hardware. That meant I could not find the bolts needed to attach the axle brace to the axle.

One of the nice things about having a donor truck is it’s also a hardware store of fasteners. The leaf spring bolts are almost exactly what is needed to mount the axle brace ..except they have a shoulder near the head of the bolt that is wider than the needed 1/2 inch. We can’t let that stop us . I loaded the bolt into the lathe.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_0277.HEIC?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_0277.HEIC?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)

After a few turns we had the 1/2 inch bolt that was needed.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_0285.HEIC?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_0285.HEIC?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)

This is going to work just fine as a temporary solution.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_0286.HEIC?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_0286.HEIC?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)

Once the bolts were snug I almost had all the threads on the leaf spring bolts. Pretty nice! I’m sure the bolts in the kit will show up as soon as I find the box i moved them into.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_0289.HEIC?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_0289.HEIC?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)

Ok that’s done.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_0293.HEIC?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_0293.HEIC?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)

Time to move the axle under the truck. Now it’s really heavy. Casters help here to roll the axle with wheels attached.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/FullSizeRender_kuhkGj6oT5QscNbRPJco1D.jpg?width=19 20&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/FullSizeRender_kuhkGj6oT5QscNbRPJco1D.jpg?width=19 20&height=1080&fit=bounds)

J R Jones

07-11-2023, 10:25 AM

Careful with bolts. The shank length/diameter is engineered for stretch at torque.
Bolt strength is in part the result of surface hardening.
jim

RoadRacer

07-11-2023, 12:08 PM

A tip I use - put a blue dot on the bolts that are torqued. So later you can quickly see the ones you haven't.. like these "temp" ones you'll forget to replace ;)

Papa

07-11-2023, 12:18 PM

kabacj

07-11-2023, 05:19 PM

A tip I use - put a blue dot on the bolts that are torqued. So later you can quickly see the ones you haven't.. like these "temp" ones you'll forget to replace ;)

Great advice James.

Careful with bolts. The shank length/diameter is engineered for stretch at torque.
Bolt strength is in part the result of surface hardening.
jim

You are right Jim. Who knows what the specifications for the bolt were before I modified it and now that it’s been trimmed down. I’m not a materials engineer, however the suspension of a 6,000lb truck that will be airborne is probably not the place to experiment with bolt strength.

I found some expensive M9-1 bolts that are 30mm long here:

2pcs M9 x 1 x 30 mm Titanium Ti Screw Fine Thread Bolt Allen Hex Socket Cap Head/Aerospace Grade https://a.co/d/fk9tauv

Thanks Papa, Those were the only ones I could find as well, however they are pretty expensive for a temporary solution. I was sure ARP or someone would make a bolt for this application. The Ford Performance cast iron cover is both stiffer and also holds more fluid. In theory the added stiffness will stabilize the differential and the added volume will aid in cooling. It seems Factory Five had to special order the 9M-1 bolts as the size is not common.

Thanks guys for the input.

kabacj

07-13-2023, 08:19 AM

With the axle installed the next step is to install the upper and lower control arms. This step is quick and easy. Simply screw in the the johnny joints press in the poly bushings and slide in the arms. Having the wheels on casters really helps here as you can easily swing the heavy axle around until the holes in the links line up.

In about 20 min the links are installed.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/FullSizeRender_1ET6cet86QTQP3otavUtm4.jpg?width=19 20&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/FullSizeRender_1ET6cet86QTQP3otavUtm4.jpg?width=19 20&height=1080&fit=bounds)

Next I installed the fuel system.

Most V8 f150s built with a towing package get a few features. Shorter gears, additional cooling capacity, bigger rear brakes, the HD axle, and the 36 gallon gas tank.

We want all the towing features as they are a good foundation for a performance truck, howevert the 36 gallon tank is too long to fit across the truck between the frame rails.

The “26” gallon tank that actually holds much more than 26 gallons does fit across the truck frame using the OEM straps. Here you can see the tanks side by side.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/2842C53C-5300-44F2-8929-F9B73E482786.png?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/2842C53C-5300-44F2-8929-F9B73E482786.png?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)

I installed the OEM shield that comes with the FX4 package from the 36 gallon tank on the 26 gallon. You can see the difference in width.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_0257.HEIC?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_0257.HEIC?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)

Ill probably trim down the shield and see if it works in this new configuration

Next you simply extend the wiring from the mid ships location on the harness back to the new placement using the supplied extensions that mirror the OEM wiring connections . That takes 30 seconds.

Then you replace the nylon hoses with traditional fuel line.

Peel the nylon off to free the quick connect then attach the traditional fuel hose with clamps to the OEM quick connects.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/FullSizeRender_h66Z3JnevoABDbyr1X1TZD.jpg?width=19 20&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/FullSizeRender_h66Z3JnevoABDbyr1X1TZD.jpg?width=19 20&height=1080&fit=bounds)

The OEM grip the traditional hose so well they will not come back out. I wonder if you even need clamps! I installed clamps anyway.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_0282.HEIC?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_0282.HEIC?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)

I have a question for Ford. Why make every quick connect in the fuel system operate differently? I am sure there is some good reason, but from a service standpoint its not awesome.

As most of us have not disassembled what is basically a new truck, I am very impressed with the design of parts to allow them to fly together. Every quick connect pushes on the same way.

The whole truck is made almost carelessly slam together. Push this thing in place it stays there with clips then slam in bolts with power tools at full rpm. I guess time is money, so Ford has designed the assembly to trim seconds where they can.

It wouldn’t cost much if anything to make them fly apart too but that does not help the bottom line ….so we get what we get.

I considered using nylon hoses like Ford does as they are much smaller and elegant looking but i figured why chance it. I know the traditional hoses will work. I can always swap the hoses at a later time. There is so much room under the truck its a pleasure to work and hang out under there .

kabacj

07-27-2023, 05:14 AM

After a break for family vacation, its back to building.

The next step is getting the rear end rolling and functional.

Since another hobby of mine is woodworking, I like to incorporate wood into the build any time I can. In order to hold the truck up on the suspension temporarily, I quickly added some wood.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_0296.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_0296.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)

This truck is all about suspension. Factory Five really went all out when they chose the dampers for this kit. Fox are a leader in this space and provide a huge range of specialty solutions for everything from mountain bikes to trucks.

We get a set of premium shocks in the kit.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_0636.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_0636.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)

We have adjustments for both low speed and high speed compression.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_0637.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_0637.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)

This is competition quality kit that will allow both setup of comfort or performance

In addition to the dampers we get two spring rates on the rear. One softer 450 lb rate for the beginning of the travel than a stiffer 600 lb rate to support huge bumps and jumps.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_0638.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_0638.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_0639.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_0639.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)

kabacj

07-28-2023, 04:52 AM

In order to build a more capable truck than anything you get from a major manufacturer, it’s necessary to start over with a new frame. The frame needs to prioritize articulation as well as have the ability to take advantage of a race quality off road suspension.

One feature that takes the truck to the next level is a second shock called a bypass shock. Here is an example

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_0105.jpeg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_0105.jpeg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)

Using a shock like this you can tune each portion of the travel of the shock.

Each section of the travel has its own damping adjustment that is completely unrelated to the travel before or after.

Many traditional mono tube shocks are limited by a common set of valves that limit how drastically you can adjust travel throughout the stroke. Especially without physically opening the damper and changing valve packs. Using both a standard mono tube shock and a bypass shock at the same time it’s possible to blend the best of both worlds. The mono tube provides a fixed damping curve and the bypass shock provides a stepped curve where it’s possible to tune each section of the stroke. The bypass shocks allows adjustment of each portion of the stroke with adjustment knobs outside the shock. Changes can be made quickly on the fly for each step of the travel.

Of course if you go this route ( as I will) it’s necessary to re tune the shock sent with the basic kit. Since the bypass shock will do part of the damping work, it’s necessary to remove some damping from the stock factory five tuned Fox Shock. Luckily the Fox 2.5 dual compression adjustable shock is fully rebuildable and tune able using basic hand tools and a compressed nitrogen cylinder to recharge the shock.

I plan to both test the performance of the standard kit built on the Gen 14 F150 as well as build and test the next level performance afforded by a bypass shock.

Finally the frame will accept air bump stops as well.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_0106.jpeg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_0106.jpeg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)

Air bump stops are yet another shock to help you control that last bit of travel before the shock hits bottom.

The great thing is no matter where you want this truck to be from a performance standpoint the frame is already built to accept the upgrade.

I can’t wait to start testing!

kabacj

07-28-2023, 05:09 PM

I solved a mystery from a few weeks ago. I was looking for an M9-1 bolt for the Ford 9.75 inch differential housing. Using my tap and die set I sized the bolt to be 9mm but I could not find a thread pitch that matched and I guessed the thread pitch was 1MM. Of course there are no 9M-1 bolts to be had anywhere except a few titanium bolts listed on Amazon.

Turns out my problem was I didn’t have the tap and die that matched the bolt.

Somehow I have survived using my tap and die method of sizing nuts and bolts for many years, but this project has stumped me a few times.

I found a good solution.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_0653.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_0653.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)

I thought I had every tool under the sun, but this one really helps. Now I know the size of the bolts that go into the Ford 9.75 differential cover.

5/16 - 18.. That was easy!

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_0652.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_0652.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)

kabacj

07-30-2023, 06:10 AM

With the proper 5/16-18 bolts I swapped out the Ford bolts for the longer bolts provided by Factory Five. Because we sandwiched the axle brace between the ring gear housing and the differential cover we need longer bolts to maintain strength. Note that this Ford Performance cover adds another 2 qts of gear oil capacity. The cast iron Ford performance cover should also aid in stabilizing the differential housing. In theory the cast iron with additional gear oil will also aid in cooling.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_0662.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_0662.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)

The FEDEX guy has been making many trips to my house these days. Friday he showed up with some hot off the presses lower control arms.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_0655.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_0655.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)

These are the heavy duty off road lower control arms offered as an option with the kit. A less over built version will also be offered for street use. I asked factory five to send the arms uncoated to save time so we could keep going with the build. One benefit of getting the arms uncoated, is the craftsmanship is on display. These are MIG welds!

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_0659.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_0659.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)

A few coats of Eastwood Extreme Chassis Black -Satin and we are ready to start the build up. Note that Eastwood chassis black exactly matches the look of finish Factory Five apply to the frame. Factory five specified a powder coat for the frame that has high corrosion protection, but at least the Eastwood finish looks the same.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_0661.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_0661.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)

kabacj

07-31-2023, 05:05 AM

Since I plan to do lots of testing and adjusting of the suspension I figured i need to outfit myself with the proper tools. One tool thats very helpful is a preload adjuster.

Here is the preload adjuster aka spanner wrench from FOX. Note the part number. 803-00-832 this preload adjuster fits the Fox 2.5 DSC damper included with the kit.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_0664.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_0664.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)

The adjuster attaches to the top collar on the shock like this allowing you to crank down on the spring increasing or decreasing the static ride height. Right now I just have the adjustments at zero pre load to see where everything ends up.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_0665.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_0665.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)

The other thing needed for the next step is the CV axles. Factory Five had longer CV axles made to allow for both wider track as well as more travel. You can see the increase in length on the Factory Five CV axle compared to the ones removed from the stock F150.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_0681.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_0681.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)

Erik W. Treves

07-31-2023, 08:56 AM

You will need to crank down on the fronts at least to have 4-5 inches at the top (like you have it) with the front spring installed

kabacj

07-31-2023, 04:50 PM

Thanks for the info Erik.

Your videos are also helpful as I can see how things are setup in the GEN 13 F150 vs Gen 14. That of course and a lesson on how to fit two turbos into barely enough space.

kabacj

08-01-2023, 05:29 AM

With all the front end components built up and ready to go, its assembly time. We installed the upper and lower control arms, shock, as well as the CV axle.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_0682.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_0682.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)

Then we installed the upright.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_0688.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_0688.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)

The upright is best done as a two person job, but lifting the upright balanced on a jack could make this a difficult one person job.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_0687.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_0687.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_0689.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_0689.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)

With one front corner assembled, it becomes obvious how much wheel travel this truck has. With the lowest part of the frame 16 inches off the ground the front brake disks are only 9 inches off the ground.

kabacj

08-02-2023, 05:10 AM

We are nearing the final phases of the build.

Today we installed the rear anti roll bar.

This is a simple task of U bolting perches on to the axle

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_3388.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_3388.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)

We noticed that one perch wanted to be in the same spot as this tab that was used to hold a plastic push in fastener. This fastener held the wires and brake line. We are re routing those so the bracket is no longer needed.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_3382.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_3382.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)

We clipped the bracket off and the mounts and anti roll bar can be aligned so that everything is balanced and the links are perpendicular to the axle.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_0691.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_0691.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_3385.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_3385.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)

The anti roll bar is an important part of the suspension as it allows us to run a softer spring yielding a compliant ride. Instead of using the coil springs to counter act the body roll, the anti roll bar isolates those forces and keeps the truck cornering flat.

Like everything with mechanical systems, you don’t get something for nothing. To get the nice anti roll feature, we trade off free articulation of the suspension.
When you plan on taking the truck out for a day of rock crawling or desert running the bar can be quickly removed to allow for max travel.

kabacj

08-03-2023, 05:14 AM

Part of being a beta builder is discovering what Ford has changed between the Gen 13 F150 (2015-2020) to the gen 14 F150 (2021-2023)

Of course the exterior changed and as a result some of the trim pieces changed as well.

One of those trim pieces that changed is the cowl plastic that goes between the windshield and hood.

Here you can see the gen 14 in the foreground and gen 13 behind it.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/(edited)_IMG_0719.png?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/(edited)_IMG_0719.png?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)

The hard parts, windshield wipers etc are the same and in the same spot, but the plastic is different where it lines up with the hood and the creases in the hood.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_9928.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_9928.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)

Unfortunately the plastic pieces that touch the cab are also different. I had some hope that I could simply make the plastic pieces that touch the cab work, but it does not look like it.

Here is how the Gen 13 cowl cover plastic fits on the gen 14 cab plastic.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_0720.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_0720.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)

This is how it’s supposed to fit. Showing Gen 14 cowl plastic on top of the gen 14 cab plastic.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_0721.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_0721.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)

Another slight change between the Gen 13 and Gen 14 is the filler door assembly.

Gen 14 (except the raptor) is square

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_9937.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_9937.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)

Gen 13 and Gen 14 raptors use this round filler door and filler.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_0730.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_0730.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)

Papa

08-03-2023, 07:02 AM

I'm enjoying following along with your and Erik's builds. As you identify these differences, is Factory Five making any changes to the parts they supply with the kits, or is that left to the builder?

octobersknight

08-03-2023, 07:08 AM

kabacj

08-03-2023, 08:00 AM

I'm enjoying following along with your and Erik's builds. As you identify these differences, is Factory Five making any changes to the parts they supply with the kits, or is that left to the builder?

Hey Papa.

Yes Factory Five are making changes to the kit to accommodate the GEN 14 F150. The idea is the builder will have a list if items to purchase from FORD or from a junk yard to accommodate things like the body lines and trim pieces. Bottom line you as a builder will know exactly what is different when you compare the cost and effort of building the XTF starting from a Gen 13 or Gen 14 F150.

Thanks for following along and asking questions!

kabacj

08-03-2023, 08:16 AM

Is there anything that prevents the anti-rollbar brackets from rotating around the axle other than U-bolt tension and friction? It looks like there is no physical geometry that would stop this behavior - but I don't know if it's even a concern based on the loading of the anti-rollbar. Are there any shear forces on it during activation that would cause it to want to twist around the axle, or is it strictly "vertical" in line with the axle?

Thanks for the great build thread!

Hey Octobersknight

The forces on the bushings are longitudinal twisting.imagine the anti roll bar is not bent around the differential but simply a squared off U shape. As one perpendicular arm of the square U goes up up it twists the longitudinal bar. The bar that goes width wise across the truck experiences spiral twisting forces

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_0110.png?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_0110.png?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)

There is little force attempting to move the anti roll bar brackets around the axle. Sure there is some but those U bolts clamp down pretty well.

Theory is one thing, testing is another. We are going to really run this truck through its paces to see what happens.

kabacj

08-04-2023, 04:58 AM

The other big difference between Gen 13 (2015 to 2020) and Gen 14 (2021 to 2023) is the headlights and taillights.

I am torn between keeping the gen 13 look and changing the truck to look like a gen 14.

There are two major concerns. First is the wiring and integration with the computer systems in the truck. The tail lights have the blind spot detection system built into the taillight housing as well as possibly some integration into the trailer backup assist gizmos. The headlights are LED and have the computer controls and low amperage wiring associated with those.

Of course the headlights and taillights are a different shape on the gen 14 compared to the gen 13 the XTF was based on.

I have a few ideas on how i can solve the bodywork. I took some 3d scans of the headlights and tail lights

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/cleaned_up_scan_of_passenger_tail_light_v4.jpg?wid th=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/cleaned_up_scan_of_passenger_tail_light_v4.jpg?wid th=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/Screenshot_2023-06-28_215437.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/Screenshot_2023-06-28_215437.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)

I could mill out or 3D print a mould that looks like the gen 14 bodywork, make a fiberglass part and then graft it into the factory five bodywork. Im not sure what will be fastest and most accurate.

Ajzride

08-04-2023, 05:14 PM

kabacj

08-05-2023, 05:51 AM

The Gen14 BCM and completely different from the Gen13, I suspect you will have a headache if you try to use Gen13 lights, although you could probably reach out to one of the companies that makes lights and confirm (morimoto, diode dynamics). If your mill is big enough I would cut a mold from sheets of 2" pink foam sheets glued together. It is much easier to sand smooth the foam than 3D prints to get out the layer lines. Also a print that big and uniquely shaped will require quite a bit of supports.

Hi Ajzride, I suspect that you are right about the lights. I tried a set of cheaper replacement gen 13 tail lights

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_9916.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_9916.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)

and both the plugs, pinout, and wiring were different. Here is the Gen 14 pinout.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/(edited)_IMG_9912.png?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/(edited)_IMG_9912.png?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)

and this is the gen 13 pinout with the Blind spot detection module plug as well.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_9910.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_9910.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)

If i go with gen 13 lights, i will probably need to disassemble the gen 14 lights and rebuild them in the gen 13 housings. Seems like a lot of work.

Regarding the 3d print vs pink foam. I was considering a multi piece 3d print to make a mold for the fiberglass and yes its going to be a complex print with lots of supports, but printing is usually easer to setup than milling although the prints will take a long time.

I even thought about making a pink foam positive mold where the foam would be a very slightly smaller scaled version of the finished part. Cover that foam with fiberglass and epoxy resin as polyester resin will melt it, Then mill the cured fiberglass to the finished shape. maybe that's more work than its worth, but i will not need to worry about draft angles so the part will release from a negative mold.

Thank you for the feedback and ideas.

kabacj

08-07-2023, 05:09 AM

MAJOR mile stones this weekend.

First start and the truck moved under its own power and stopped!!

Of course I press the start button for the first start and the battery is almost dead. Ha. But 5 min on the battery booster it fired right up.

https://youtu.be/8qXSfMbCMJ0

One of the amazing things about this Ford Performance (whipple supercharger) install is that you don’t flash the ECU. You simply put in the hardware and fire it up! That was a bit scary to be honest. The ECU quickly learns the fuel air mixture and you are good to go. Pretty amazing really. No smell of un burnt fuel. No bad habits noticed so far. I really can’t believe it was that easy to add so much hp. The super charger kit still comes with the Whipple tuner and OBD2 connector so you can monitor the system as well as make modifications in the future. Very nice.

EDIT::: The part about flashing the ECU was wrong!! Ford instructions were not complete. Ford probably fixed the instructions by now, but I was an early builder of the Ford solution as well !! You must flash the ECU to get the supercharger to work properly!!

kabacj

08-08-2023, 05:04 AM

Now that the motor is running its time to install the air box and air filter supplied with the ford performance super charger kit.

The super charger kit air box fits into the same space as the stock air box… except. The bottom of the airbox has two pegs that register in the two round rubber mounts on in the stock engine compartment. Unfortunately the bypass shock mount interferes with the airbox.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_0755.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_0755.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)

Cutting a hole in the airbox bottom would be a big deal except for the fact that there is already a giant hole in the airbox bottom! Seems like even the enlarged snorkel that siits in the stock location is not large enough to accommodate the airflow needed to supply the supercharger. Ford/ Whipple trimmed the bottom out of the airbox to accommodate. Well we are making another hole.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_0752.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_0752.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)

Some quick work with a cut off wheel then the air saw and we have another hole in the bottom of the air box allowing it to clear the bypass shock mount.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_0754.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_0754.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)

After some sanding and clean up of the hole. Now the air box fits.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_0765.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_0765.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)

kabacj

08-09-2023, 05:14 AM

It is very different working on a rolling computer vs the mostly analog factory five cars we are used to. The computer has something to say about just about anything you do or touch.

Here is an example. I had not yet connected the braking system when I started the truck for the first time. Of course to start the truck that means connecting the battery. Once the battery is connected the truck immediately starts complaining about brake fluid levels, the fact that the braking system is inoperable. Of course the accident avoidance system cant work because the pre brake assist cant work so it complains about that.

Ok no problem (OK,OK,OK) to all the codes. Then this is the best, The truck immediately puts on the electric parking brakes and refuses to take them off. The buttons don't work!

Of course this is probably a good safety measure. If you don't have hydraulic brakes it’s probably not good to move the truck. Keep the electric brakes on.

But I want to move the truck. Nope you cant.

Well F150 computer I know how to fix you. I’ll just unplug your connection to the electric brakes. Let’s see how you deal with that.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_0781.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_0781.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)

Well I won that battle. Now I can push the truck.

OK F150, I’m going to move you wether you like it or not. I’ll just put the truck in neutral. Nope you cant. The gear shifter is controlled by the computer. It isn’t physically connected to anything. Human, you can move the gear shifter all you want . We are in park.

OK F150, luckily the ford engineers thought of this and have a way to take the truck out of park even if the computer is dead.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_0744.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_0744.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)

Pull this little orange tab and we can physically take the transmission out of park via a cable connected to the transmission.

NOW i can move the truck. Wow, that was a new experience.

When computers take over the world, at least you will know that you will be able to drive your factory five Cobra, hot rod, coupe, GTM, hot rod pickup, or 818. Your Factory Five XTF… the computers own that one.

Ajzride

08-09-2023, 07:34 AM

That shifter sucks. Mine had a switch go out so it couldn't tell where it was, and refused to shift out of park. The tow truck driver Ford sent didn't now about the orange tab, and he crawled under the truck and forced it into neutral. After Ford replaced the shifter they spent another 3 days cleaning all the codes brought on by forcing the transmission into neutral manually.

I wish Ford had just put in a knob like Dodge (or like they do in the escape), but their marketing team did a poll and truck drivers want a real shifter.....

Side Note: I have a mongoose cable if you find yourself needing to do firmware updates on the modules, I'd be happy to put it in the mail for you.

RoadRacer

08-09-2023, 11:56 AM

I work with computers for a living and that was a fun read - it's like debugging a car!

kabacj

08-10-2023, 07:10 AM

After Ford replaced the shifter they spent another 3 days cleaning all the codes brought on by forcing the transmission into neutral manually.

Thanks for the offer for the computer interface cable Ajzride. Hopefully I will not need one.

Regarding he manual control of the shifter. When I was pulling the body off I had to disconnect the cable from the transmission to free the cab from the Ford frame.

I thought it was weird to have a cable going from the cab to the transmission without any way to control that cable that I was aware of. Only later when I researched putting the truck into neutral manually did I realize what the cable was for. The access door for the manual operation is well hidden .

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_0786.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_0786.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)

kabacj

08-11-2023, 04:47 AM

I work with computers for a living and that was a fun read - it's like debugging a car!

Well to follow the theme of debugging a computer I challenge anyone to watch this video once and go into your truck and enable this mode.

https://youtu.be/RZ9g0ShcZdc

While it’s definitely not user friendly, this procedure is helpful when you are building the XTF. For example the truck just fits in my garage. To move the truck 1/2 inch from the garage wall I can put it in flat tow mode and push it the last few inches.

kabacj

08-14-2023, 05:07 AM

While the change between the gen 13 and gen 14 cowl plastic and hood hinges are subtle, they are very important to the XTF build.

Besides the fact that cowl plastic is physically higher and has a different shape on the Gen 14 F150, it seems like ford made the hood lighter. Because the hood is lighter on the gen 14, the struts that hold up the hood are not as strong. I think the leverage on the hinge changed slightly too.

The Gen 14 aluminum hood is amazingly light. You notice that when swapping in the very stout Factory Five hood. The Gen 14 struts are a bit weak.

Since I was having a hard time finding a junk yard that would sell me all of the cowl parts, I simply ordered the needed gen 13 parts from Ford.

Step one was painting the hinges. They are sliver plated from Ford.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_0793.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_0793.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)

Then a quick before picture on of the Gen 14 plastic and hinges.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_0794.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_0794.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)

Next remove all of the Gen 14 parts.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_0796.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_0796.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)

And everything fits! Whew. When all the part numbers and schematics say i can just swap the parts I know it’s supposed to work, but as we know with these things sometimes there are gotchas. This time it was smooth. Now I can start the bodywork.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_0800.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_0800.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)

kabacj

08-15-2023, 05:24 AM

Since this the first XTF built on a gen 14 platform, there are differences that will be updated in the kit. One item is the AC lines to the cab.

The aluminum hard line that goes to the cab wants to be in the same place as the new shock towers. I could either have a new line made using flexible hose instead of hard lines, or I can try to bend the aluminum.

Of course rather than go the easy way, I decided I would first try to bend the lines.

The hard lines are amazingly stiff!

So starting at the cab I needed to clock the mount that touches the cab about 30 degrees.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_0168.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_0168.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)

Next I needed to make a Z bend in the pipe so it would go over the shock towers.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_0819.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_0819.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)

Success without cracking the pipe.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_0736.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_0736.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)

Now I needed to bend the whole pipe down over the top of the shock towers towards the front of the truck so all the condenser connections would fit. This was tough as Ford actually crushed the pipe in order to make it bend.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/71355558431_5D2BB05C-2A06-4AB4-B2A6-F55F213EA84C.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/71355558431_5D2BB05C-2A06-4AB4-B2A6-F55F213EA84C.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)

I tried heat, but. I was afraid the pipe would collapse if I put too much force on it.

Then I had this idea.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_0806.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_0806.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)

Now we are talking! I can put the force exactly where I want it and hopefully not crimp the pipe.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_0801.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_0801.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)

I put the bender in the vice and was able to put the needed bends into the AC line. Woo hoo..

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/71355553286_C217C2E2-3898-42E3-8A7D-31F1239A5127.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/71355553286_C217C2E2-3898-42E3-8A7D-31F1239A5127.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)

Jeff Kleiner

08-15-2023, 07:55 AM

Well done John! There is no forgiveness with aluminum tubing.

Jeff

J R Jones

08-15-2023, 11:18 AM

kabacj

08-15-2023, 04:43 PM

Well done John! There is no forgiveness with aluminum tubing.

Jeff

You know it Jeff! I walked away from this bend several times. One extra pull in frustration and its over. Let’s see if it holds a vacuum, then we can celebrate.

kabacj

08-15-2023, 05:01 PM

Kudos Kabacj
I had an Oak tree fall on my DD pick-up truck, totaling it out. Using the lemon/lemonade analogy, I made fixtures out of the Oak to press bends into 2 X 3 frame rails for a street rod. There was (wood) surface damage after one or two bends and steel sheet liners stopped that. I find it hard to dispose those "one time" solutions, they are like trophies.
jim

Wood is an excellent tool Jim as you know. Oak is especially useful and a beautiful material. There is nothing like taking a once living thing and making it into a new thing with a new purpose. I’m glad to hear you were able give new life to the tree that killed your pickup. Better yet that tree helped give life to a new hotrod that produced carbon to grow more trees. It’s the circle of life haha.

Talking about these one time tools. I also have a nice trophy collection of one time tools. I keep them just in case.

This wood is left over from same 2x4s I used to lift the body over the frame. The circle of life in my shop. :)

John

kabacj

08-16-2023, 05:03 AM

Well I think we can call the AC line bend experiment a success. I was able to pull a vacuum and hold it over night.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_0825.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_0825.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)

One interesting thing about working on a 2021 F150. Since the truck is relatively new there is very little DIY that is going on. Not much has broken yet. As a result there is little information available on the internet regarding procedures that apply directly to the 2021 model .

Normally you would look at the hood or core support for information regarding what refrigerant is used in the truck. Well the hood is gone now, so that’s not an option.

The printed manuals in the truck are not especially useful. The various guides have little maintenance information.

The owners manual is available in digital format however via the touch screen in the truck. I guess thats OK as it’s searchable, however it’s not what I expected.

I assumed the truck used R134a refrigerant. Well that was wrong. Seems like Ford was switching over the trucks in 2021.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_0817.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_0817.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)

The 2021 F150 with a V8 uses y1234yf refrigerant. This requires different fittings than R134A.

J R Jones

08-16-2023, 01:16 PM

John, As you obviously realize there is a hierarchy of materials and one begets another. When cosmetics are a fabricating priority at the expense of labor and speed:
Aluminum begets steel and SS.
Wood & plastic begets aluminum.
Leather over lead begets sheet metal.
On one occasion my dog's Nylabone helped me press a part to shape.
He got that tool back, no trophy.
jim

kabacj

08-21-2023, 05:03 AM

My weekend was spent mostly doing bodywork and fitting panels, I also did some work on a prototype mount for the FOX 2.5 Performance Series shocks that come with the kit.

While the kit parts are fully functional I have this thing about hose clamps. I just dont like how they look . Although hose clamps are the accepted way to attach the remote reservoir to an off road truck I was looking for an alternative.

There are plenty of solutions for sale using a solid block of aluminum between the round reservoir and a round tube but none for a reservoir to a square tube.

So I took some measurements

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_0828.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_0828.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)

Drew up a prototype and printed it out using some filament that I wanted to use up.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_0832.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_0832.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)

Fits pretty well. Thats a friction fit.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_0836.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_0836.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)

I think this is going to work

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_0871.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_0871.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)

It’s amazingly strong. The clamp is doing all of the work and the plastic simply locates the reservoir. Although I probably could get away with one mount, hours of off road punishment could weaken the mount. I think I’ll go with two. I see some improvements i can make. A few more prototypes are needed to get the answer.

RoadRacer

08-21-2023, 07:33 AM

Have to laugh that a hose clamp was still there in final solution though :)

I totally get it, but *big grin*

Ajzride

08-21-2023, 07:51 AM

kabacj

08-21-2023, 04:41 PM

Have to laugh that a hose clamp was still there in final solution though :)

I totally get it, but *big grin*

I know. Its sad .

There is a reason that everyone just uses hose clamps.

It’s a good solution. Simple and fail safe.

Any solution made of billet aluminum you are at risk of warping the housing of the remote reservoir. Easy to put lots of compression with a bolt. Hose clamps are not easy to over tighten.

Fox ships hose clamps and rubber saddles to mount the remote reservoir with the shock!

kabacj

08-21-2023, 04:42 PM

You could lose the hose clamp by making the clamp go all the way around the square tube and bolt together. You could use heat inserts to make the clamp threaded, or you could make flanges so a nut and bolt could go through. You can also embed nuts in your 3D print by having it pause after it has printed a hole for them to drop in, and resuming after you have added the nut.

Yep good idea Ajzride. I like the stop the print and add the nuts solution.

I’m going to add a cover to keep dirt out and hide the fact that I just used a hose clamp from RoadRacer.

Ajzride

08-22-2023, 07:40 AM

If you do decide to enclose nuts in a print, buy a pack of square nuts. Easier to design in CAD and also allows you to insert the nut in any orientation. Regular hexagonal nuts can only be inserted horizontal.

J R Jones

08-22-2023, 11:05 AM

It is unlikely that any DIY replica will be held accountable to the SAE. The SAE requires auto assembly and maintenance with grade 5 or higher fasteners, to keep cars and drivers safe. SAE is like the FAA of road vehicles.
jim

kabacj

08-25-2023, 08:52 PM

Interestingly a laptop and scan tools are now a required part of my car building tool kit.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_0942.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_0942.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)

One procedure that you will need to perform is changing your fuel tank size as your F150 likely had a 36 gallon.

By changing the fuel tank size, you will update the trucks ability to calculate the distance to empty. Ford leave an extra margin of fuel in the tank so you can drive pretty far even after zero miles to empty, however I plan on testing the accuracy with a 5 gallon jug of fuel In the back.

It's a simple process to update the fuel tank size through a software tool called Forscan. Of course messing around with the modules in your truck requires some understanding of what you are doing and how to backup your work before you make changes. I would suggest fully understanding your goal and the procedure before you dive in.

The other thing I have gained an appreciation for is how sensitive the CAN network is in this truck.
Driving the truck around with lots of things disconnected (even in the driveway) can cause unexpected behavior. Id say that ideally you turn the truck off. do your whole build adding everything back where you found it and turn it back on. Evervthing will be fine.

IF you are like me. You start it up as soon as the engine is back in the truck and powered up. Brake lines are not attached. no lights are attached. no cameras are attached. the grill shutters are not attached the radar and blind spot sensors are not attached. Sure the engine might be fine, but now I might need to re calibrate the 6 cameras on the truck and sort out other phantom DTCs. Not the end of the world, but it’s just a new experience.

Here Is a good tutorial on Forscan.

https://docs.google.com/document/d/1-8dKaS_Spu4Zw4hV_CrKC4tLoP9G8yejqegF1wxIqxY/edit

Lucky for us the F150 forum has very active users who are amazingly helpful.

If you get yourself in deep, even us DIY people can use the dealer FORD software called FRDS. A great link on that is found here.

https://www.f150gen14.com/forum/threads/ecu-module-programming-guide-using-fdrs.8249/

The gen 14 is a rolling computer. I have been reading the Ford documentation prepared for fleet truck builders that modify F 150s for Police service etc. Lots of warnings about messing with bits that are connected to the CAN network. That tells you something. Thankfully we have help.

kabacj

08-30-2023, 05:08 AM

Most of my time has been spent on hanging the body panels and evaluating what needs to change as I put gen 13 F150 body panels on a Gen 14 cab.

With the body panels in place, I was able to install the headlights.

Factory five include a harness to switch between the stock wiring and the aftermarket headlights.

Here is a shot of the DRLs in the day.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/71486903821_2A3F712C-4286-4C17-93E8-340459198B50.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/71486903821_2A3F712C-4286-4C17-93E8-340459198B50.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)

And at night

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_0959.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_0959.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)

Ajzride

08-30-2023, 08:30 AM

You got them to light up, but did you get the computer happy? Perhaps you will have to find a way to hide the 2021 lights somewhere inside the body wired up to keep the computer from throwing codes.

kabacj

08-31-2023, 04:16 PM

You got them to light up, but did you get the computer happy? Perhaps you will have to find a way to hide the 2021 lights somewhere inside the body wired up to keep the computer from throwing codes.

Yes actually thats my plan. Make the computer think the stock LED lights are still plugged in.

I dont plan on cutting into any of the factory wiring harness or making any FORSCAN changes.. let’s see how that goes haha.

Step one was to buy a replacement light housing for the marker light. I could have just swapped the one from my stock lights, but I wanted to keep the stock lights intact.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_0950.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_0950.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)

I simply plugged in the stock marker light and I had halo lights.

So far so good.

Next was the turn signal. for this I needed to purchase a light housing. The 2021 Lariat does not use a housing to hold the turn signal bulb.

Now I need to connect what you would normally see in a halogen light to the LED harness. Turns out the plugs are very similar.

My LED plug

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_0994_3NrAkz3dq8TnLyuEc6Jgda.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_0994_3NrAkz3dq8TnLyuEc6Jgda.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)

Simply remove this tab from the halogen plug and we are golden

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_1007.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_1007.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)

This flashes at normal rate. Matching the rear lights that are stock 2021 F150. Interestingly the blinker click sound is a bit faster than normal in the cab, but I have a few other bulbs to try to match the stock units.
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_1010.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_1010.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)

Next was the headlights. They work fine using the Factory five harness. I didn’t fully test them but they seem good.

The only codes I have are the zone lighting. In the front the fog lights are used to light up the front of the truck with the zone lighting feature. Ill figure that out too.

Finally I need to figure out the projector high beams of the aftermarket headlight but I ran out of time. That is a job for another day.

John

kabacj

09-01-2023, 05:04 PM

The F150 frame is gone.

I was holding on to it as a reference while we sorted out the fit of the 2021 cab on the factory five chassis.

I was anxious to get the frame out of the way and had a plan to move it this weekend when I got a call from a guy who I sold some F150 parts to. He wanted the frame but only the front section.

I told him either you take the whole thing or nothing.

He agreed but he only wanted the front to repair his F150 project. I agreed to cut the frame for him. That was a little scary to be honest.

I sent him several pictures .. you sure you want me to cut this right???!

I’m going to cut it on the yellow tape lines..

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_1045.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_1045.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_1046.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_1046.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)

I scanned the internet for the frame sections ford sells and this looked about right.

Of course this guy didn’t give me any money yet so i might end up with two pieces of frame if this doesn’t work out.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_1047.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_1047.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)

At least the cutting part was easy.

And now i can lift the frame up into his box truck.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_1049.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_1049.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)

Thankfully it worked out.

I gave him a bunch of other stuff that I don't want to bother selling . He is a nice young guy and Everybody wins.

kabacj

09-05-2023, 05:00 PM

Now that the bodywork is on the frame, i need to address the changes from the gen 13 F150 to the Gen 14 F150.

The tail lights are my first task. While using the gen 13 lights would be easier from a bodywork perspective, the wiring changed and the blind spot sensor changed. I would basically need to rewire a gen 13 tail light to simulate a gen 14 and make the Blind spot sensor fit. Anything is possible, but i know I can make the tail light fit in the factory five bodywork so thats the approach I took.

I also like the gen 14 tail light so there is that.

This isn’t going to work thats for sure.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_1105.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_1105.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)

My first idea was to make a mold directly form the bed I kept for this purpose. I will have an exact copy of the tail light housing and surrounding sheet metal and I can just graft that into the factory five parts.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_1061.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_1061.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)

So i covered the area with cling wrap.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_1062.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_1062.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)

Built an enclosure.

Covered the area in a thin layer of fiberglass and poured in some foam.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_1064.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_1064.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)

That was fun. I’ve never done that before.

I got this mold where I was able to pull off the part i needed.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_1066.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_1066.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)

I got a bit carried away with the plasticine filling in all the divots in the mold. some of them were for clearing the light housing .. oh well. This works, but the second try will be better.

kabacj

09-06-2023, 05:12 AM

With some experience mounting the first tail light replica, I realized that the sheet metal surrounding the light was not as useful as I hoped. I simply used it to locate the light in the factory five bodywork but it is below surface of the finished panel.

This time my only goal was to pull a replica of the tail light bucket and not worry about the surface finish of the part. No mold needed.

First put down the cling wrap paying attention to where I wanted negative space for the light housing.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_1068.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_1068.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)

Put down a thin layer of fiberglass. Thin fiberglass is also flexible. This helped as this tail light housing does not have the proper draft angle to make a fiberglass part. The part wants to lock itself into the bed like a key.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_1097.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_1097.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)

I avoided the top corner because there is a sheet metal plate that is not needed in my fiberglass part. I will rebuild that area when I build up the back of the mold after it’s pulled from the truck bed. I also marked the holes for the pins and bolts that mount the light with bits of blue tape. A layer of fiberglass over those will keep them in place.

Finally using some threaded rod and bolts I held the tail light bucket in space while I put a layer of fiberglass on the outside of the bucket to lock the alignment perfectly in space.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_1112.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_1112.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)

I find that parts that need good alignment need to built in place. If I were to take the panel off the truck and glass the part into position the weight of the panel slightly warps the opening. The fiberglass lock this new position in place and I dont get the outcome I expected. Once the new tail light housing is locked in place I will remove the part from the truck and grind off the extra fiberglass from the back side. I’ll build up the connection between the two parts making the transition from the factory five part and my tail light housing a smooth transition.

There is probably a better and faster way to do this, but the result was great. The tail lights drop exactly into place and are perfectly aligned just like the factory. I’m satisfied with that.

John

Papa

09-06-2023, 07:15 AM

Ajzride

09-06-2023, 09:22 AM

This route is definitely faster than 3D printing or or CNCing a buck/mold. the down side is you don't have something you can sell on Etsy to other builders.

J R Jones

09-06-2023, 10:22 AM

My experience with round tail light mounting was much easier. Did you consider cutting the original mounts out of the donor box and bonding them in place?
jim

kabacj

09-06-2023, 04:46 PM

I'm enjoying following along with your build, but I would think that these sorts of fabrication may be beyond the typical builder's ability to pull off. I hope FFR sees this as an opportunity to provide options that support either generation of donor truck.

Hi Papa,

Yes the point of my build is to help factory five evaluate what needs to change in order to have a turn key kit for gen 14 F150s.

When factory five and I discussed building a kit I was originally going to get a gen 13, but after doing research it seemed like the Gen 14 would work, so I took a chance.

I get to be the first beta builder on Gen 14. Factoryfive have only built Gen 13 f150 into XTF prerunners. The kit was not designed for gen 14, but I think it actually works pretty well. Lucky for me haha. I figured how bad could it be?!? Famous last words.

If people ask for a 2021+ kit then factory five know everything that needs to be updated with the kit to make it turn key. Its early days so factory five are simply selling the kit they designed before the gen 14 was even available.

If somebody wants to build the gen 14 into an XTF I can tell them everything they need to do to modify the kit. Factory five also have all that information.

Factory five will offer turnkey kits for the Gen 14 and even the Gen 15 at some point.

Great question.

kabacj

09-06-2023, 04:56 PM

This route is definitely faster than 3D printing or or CNCing a buck/mold. the down side is you don't have something you can sell on Etsy to other builders.

Haha very true. The truck needs to be done for SEMA so i don't have time to play around sadly.

The other thing to consider is that Factory five will likely offer a turn key 2021 sooner kit if people ask for it. Else they will offer it as demand increases.

The work I have done is no big deal for factory five to Change in the turn key kit.

If you don't go off the rails building a crazy power plant or try to modify fords Gen 14 design back to a gen 13 design the build would likely take 1 month.

Now getting a truck ready for SEMA. I am sweating !!

This truck needs to be shaken down an ready for the desert in 6 weeks

kabacj

09-06-2023, 05:01 PM

My experience with round tail light mounting was much easier. Did you consider cutting the original mounts out of the donor box and bonding them in place?
jim

Actually Jim cutting out the tail lights would be a great solution as you quickly get OEM fit.. BUT a very expensive solution .

The aluminum bed of an f150 in pristine condition lists for 4-5 thousand dollars on EBAY. I’m not sure if they actually sell for that amount, but even if it sold for $1000 those would be very expensive tail light buckets !!

When I’m done with the bed I’ll sell it as there are many folks who buy a badly damaged F150 and rebuild it with a nice good as new bed like mine.

kabacj

09-18-2023, 11:15 AM

Well its crunch time. I’m super busy getting everything ready for SEMA.

Since my last update I’ve been wrapping up the loose ends.

I charged the AC system. (Very important for Las Vegas heat) we get condensation here… not so much there.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_1146.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_1146.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)

I wanted to delete my grill shutters as they are silly on a truck like this. You can’t do it in software, but you can do it with a mechanical grill shutter simulator…

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/71583194789_356B2FB9-CB4E-4FD4-AC94-D464FD2B9640.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/71583194789_356B2FB9-CB4E-4FD4-AC94-D464FD2B9640.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/71583196167_A7CF9CF8-6991-4FC4-97DD-5C21A6AA133B.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/71583196167_A7CF9CF8-6991-4FC4-97DD-5C21A6AA133B.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)

kabacj

09-19-2023, 07:32 AM

In order to sound deaden the aluminum I gave it a coat of lizard skin sound deadener. All the panels are drilled and ready to rivet so I pulled them all off

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_1217.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_1217.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)

Then a coat of lizard skin sound deadener sprayed with an undercoating gun. Just thin it down to the consistency of interior latex paint.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_1214.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_1214.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)

Probably over kill as I am going to add bed liner in too, but this is cheap and easy insurance that I will not have any rattles.

Works like a charm, dries fast and water clean up . This stuff is great.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/71676143455_5C879D6A-948D-4CD0-8BFD-9C5ECAC22BCE.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/71676143455_5C879D6A-948D-4CD0-8BFD-9C5ECAC22BCE.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)

Almost ready for bed liner.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_1253.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_1253.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)

J R Jones

09-19-2023, 11:09 AM

I am confused. You put Lizard skin on the backside of the panels?
As an experienced pick-up owner I never hear structure noise from the cargo box, maybe they do not exist.
Bed liner will contribute somewhat to averting panel impact damage, but it will not be OEM truck-like. Light duty.
After two long term Tundras, I recently bought a Honda Ridgeline. The cargo box has SMC composite panels in the steel body. The OEM bedliner was not UV resistant and evaporated in spots leaving fiberglass exposed.
I removed all the panels and double coated them with Durabak-18 through Amazon. It comparison tested very well. It comes in colors and my gray matched the leather interior.
jim
Project Farm bedliner review:
https://www.google.com/search?q=Project+Farm+bedliner+review&rlz=1C1CHBF_enUS858US858&oq=Project+Farm+bedliner+review&aqs=chrome..69i57j33i10i160l2.11184j0j7&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8#fpstate=ive&vld=cid:f1472ae8,vid:e8RY-Z0ObgY,st:0

190263

Erik W. Treves

09-19-2023, 11:27 AM

I did the same thing on mine - coated on both sides as the bare aluminum will get stained over time

Jeff Kleiner

09-19-2023, 11:35 AM

Hey John,
I don't know what your bedliner plan is but I highly recommend Raptor. I recommended it to Erik and he used it. I've been using it on the undersides of all the Cobra and Coupe bodies I've done for the past 3 years or so and love it! User friendly and creates a nice texture which you can vary with pressure or number of coats.

I have enjoyed following along!

Jeff

kabacj

09-19-2023, 09:02 PM

I am confused. You put Lizard skin on the backside of the panels?
As an experienced pick-up owner I never hear structure noise from the cargo box, maybe they do not exist.
Project Farm bedliner review:
https://www.google.com/search?q=Project+Farm+bedliner+review&rlz=1C1CHBF_enUS858US858&oq=Project+Farm+bedliner+review&aqs=chrome..69i57j33i10i160l2.11184j0j7&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8#fpstate=ive&vld=cid:f1472ae8,vid:e8RY-Z0ObgY,st:0

190263

Hey Jim,

Yeah the side panels on the XTF are thin flat aluminum. The floor is thick flat aluminum. If you leave them alone they can vibrate. Over time the rivets could loosen and then they could vibrate. Sure maybe they are fine, but with the flat panels and rivet construction, it’s always good to go the extra mile to eliminate any chance of vibration.

kabacj

09-19-2023, 09:07 PM

kabacj

10-03-2023, 05:27 AM

The UPS guy is getting a workout thanks to the XTF!

My Raceline forged bead lock wheels arrived.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_1317.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_1317.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)

17 inch wheels will be great for having lots of sidewall to avoid hitting those big rocks.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_1318.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_1318.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)

Every off road truck needs a good light kit. The first shipment of parts from Baja Design arrived

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_1336.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_1336.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)

And my set of 37 inch BF Goodrich KM3s 37 x 13.5 x 17. Thats a whole lotta tire.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_1337.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_1337.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)

Lots of installing to do!

kabacj

10-07-2023, 05:14 AM

And finally after a spray with feather fill and hours and hours of block sanding then wet sanding she is ready to go out to get wrapped! Door handles, mirrors, tail lights all come off .

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_1361.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_1361.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)

Since all the bodywork was done, I took the truck out for a drive. WOW . After installing the front anti roll bar the truck turns better than stock. I have both front and rear anti roll bars. The XTF It has a sporty drive feel now instead of a floaty crown Victoria feel of the stock truck . The current F150 has morphed into a luxury truck. The stock F150 is wonderful and amazing, don't get me wrong, but its a bit boring in my opinion.

I wanted to add some personality to the driving experience and the XTF conversion absolutely does that. Now the truck has a sporty feel when it takes a spirited drive down a curvy road.

It was shocking really to have a 5000 lb truck that is willing and able to take the twisty roads. The drive experience was not what I expected from a lifted coil spring shock made for jumping and off road adventure like this.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/image000000_o87TKxYTCUs7RCyL2MCBRZ.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/image000000_o87TKxYTCUs7RCyL2MCBRZ.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)

Oh and if you turn the traction control off its possible to do an infinite burnout at 60mph. That's a new experience for me. The Ford performance (Whipple ) supercharger is amazing. It has plenty of power.

kabacj

10-09-2023, 05:35 AM

With the truck out getting wrapped I spent the weekend cleaning up the dust and pressure washing the driveway. Once things were back in order, I mounted the tires.

For some reason I thought mounting the tires on bead locks rims would be easy. Just pop the tire on and tighten lock the ring. This will be much more convenient than using a tire machine and worrying about damage to my new rims. Well that was not exactly how it went.

Step one. Install the TPMS

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_1387_8ZLkD4HTHEnon1Z9fvD9Nc.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_1387_8ZLkD4HTHEnon1Z9fvD9Nc.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)

I used a standard schader valve and TPMS, but wanted to upgrade the rubber valve stem to an aluminum one that in theory would be more cut resistant and a bit shorter.

That was easy enough. Just remove the screw that attaches the TPMS to the valve stem.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_1388_jDW5jDMswVhuq4gHSQmXkQ.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_1388_jDW5jDMswVhuq4gHSQmXkQ.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)

Next comes the fun part. Install 33 bolts, center the ring and the tire on the wheel and slowly walk down all the bolts tightening in a star pattern sorta like you torque down a head on an engine.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_1385.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_1385.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)

Even using a small nut driver this part of the job took a while. Threading each bolt by hand. Tightening down each bolt in steps and going around in a star pattern. Then finally when everything was as tight as my 1/4 in drive nut driver on low power could muster, then torque each bolt by hand to 20 ft lbs.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_1379.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_1379.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)

Surprisingly with barely any torque on the ring the tire would hold air. I set the back side bead and loosened and re tightened the front ring to try to ensure everything was concentric and aligned .

6 tires at roughly an hour per tire.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/71850691569_BB965A9A-4FE4-4E48-8C14-C3DBF48F751B_cx5aDYQgxtNriGu9H4EsLz.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/71850691569_BB965A9A-4FE4-4E48-8C14-C3DBF48F751B_cx5aDYQgxtNriGu9H4EsLz.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)

kabacj

10-10-2023, 05:23 AM

One of the things I need on an off road truck is lots of lights. One way to do this on an F150 lariat is to retrofit the up-fitter switches from the superduty, tremor and raptor OR you can go with this solution from Baja Design.

I like this solution because by default it comes with 8 circuits but it can expand to 32. Because it’s configurable I can make those 8 circuits do what I need.

Dimming
• Strobe
• Flash
• Momentary
• Switch Linking
• On Road and Off Road mode of operation

The following features via their app.
• Circuit timers
• Switch lockout
• Initial startup current for each circuit is raised to 65amps for 5 seconds
• Program any circuit to be always on while still maintaining fault protection
• Option to disable deep sleep mode
• Selectable auto restart after circuit shuts down from over current/short
• Programmable Current Limiting (in 2amp increments up to 30amps)
• Selectable auto restart for current limiting shut down
• Selectable “Latch” or “Momentary” actions for inputs
• Programmable ignition control for all 8 circuits
• Variable strobe function to create custom flash/strobe patterns

All better than the upfitter switches for my purposes. Most importantly the installation is very sanitary and simple.

Just pull down on the overhead console.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_1393.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_1393.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)

Pull out the sun glasses holder. And install the touch screen

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_1394.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_1394.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)

Quick easy and reversible.

The unit is controlled by one Rj45 cable that you snake down to the firewall via the drivers door A pillar . Thats the next task.

crash

10-12-2023, 04:18 PM

Glad to see you are going with the Baja Designs solution. They are the best.

kabacj

10-12-2023, 09:14 PM

Glad to see you are going with the Baja Designs solution. They are the best.

100% Baja Designs are the best. Their stuff is so high quality. I love it.

Everything is made well and made in the USA.

kabacj

10-12-2023, 09:28 PM

After mounting the touch screen it’s simply one cat 5 cable that is run from the cab to the power distribution box.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_1396.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_1396.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)

I used a piece of 12 gauge solid copper wire like you use in home wiring to get from the overhead console to the door frame. You simply pull off the rubber moulding around the frame and run the wire down the A pillar and under the dash.

There is an exit grommet in the driver foot well. I used the same solid copper wire as a fish tape here.

The smaller wire is the control wire for the Baja Designs sPod.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_1398.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_1398.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)

It’s a tight fit to feed the wire, but thats why this truck is so quiet inside. It’s air tight.

The cat 5 plugs into the Bantam X which has capacity for 8 circuits. You can expand to 32 with more bantam X boxes.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_1406.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_1406.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)

And close it up.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_1401.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_1401.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)

Ready to start adding lights.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_1413.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_1413.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)

Of course since this is all software you can name each switch and configure its behavior.

Very cool!

kabacj

10-16-2023, 05:14 AM

Well now it’s really crunch time.

Clicking off the items on the list one at a time.

Since we have 37 inch tires and heavy duty rims the new tire setup is quite a bit heavier than stock. To get them slowed down in a hurry I upgraded to Willwood 6 piston front brakes.

It’s the same Kit Willwood make for the raptor. The raptor kit works for our trucks with one modification. We need longer 23 inch stainless brake lines to account for the 16 inches of travel in the front.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_1450.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_1450.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)

The Willwood kit is made to fit inside 17 inch rims. Lucky for us the Raptor also runs 17 inch rims and we can use the aftermarket parts designed to fit the raptor.

It’s a close fit, but plenty of room inside the Raceline rims.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_1452.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_1452.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)

kabacj

10-23-2023, 07:37 AM

Well everything got done. Just in time as every SEMA build. A few stickers and trim bits will be installed when we roll it on the show floor but it’s good to go.

Here we have the chase rack with two spares two cans of fuel and an off road jack.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_1549.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_1549.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)

The next problem was getting the XTF on the trailer . It’s kinda wide. We were worried that the weight of the truck would blow the trailer tires right off their bead.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_1561.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_1561.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)

No worries i have a red neck solution!

Not the ideal way to load a trailer, but it works

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_1577.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_1577.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)

I have an enclosed trailer so I’m not used to seeing my baby in the rear view mirror. We got lots of thumbs up on the way to Factory Five.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_1581.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_1581.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)

After sitting in the truck for 4 hours I thought of a Better way to load and unload the XTF. This is A MUCH easier way to get a wide truck on a trailer.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_1587.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_1587.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)

And there she sits on the Factory Five production floor among the steel stock from which she was born a few months ago.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_1588.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_1588.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)

Blitzboy54

10-23-2023, 11:58 AM

Looks so cool. Nice work

kabacj

10-24-2023, 11:15 AM

Looks so cool. Nice work

Thanks very much.

SEMA is just a break in the build schedule. I have many more plans and parts sitting on the shelf waiting for installation!!

I wish I was working on it right now!

kabacj

11-01-2023, 09:32 PM

One of the last things I did before SEMA was set the bump stop height.

This operation requires you to cycle the shock through its full range and ensure the bump stop lands on the landing pad on the axle. After removing the spring I jacked up the frame until the wheel was just still touching the ground.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_1499.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_1499.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)

Then I lowered it down to the point where the bump stop would catch the full weight of the truck

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_1515.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_1515.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)

Yes thats actually the full travel of the suspension.

We have some loose wiring in the picture, but when completely compressed the rear end squishes down quite a bit with the factory five provided exhaust only a few inches off the ground.

Because this looks insane I needed to measure the actual travel from axle to frame.

The top of travel measurement

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_1521.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_1521.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)

Bottom of travel measurement. 20 inches of rear axle travel. Just like the marketing says. Actually I think I can get 24 inches by simply adjusting a few bits.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_1527.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_1527.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)

Because the fully drooped out pose where the axle is fully extended away from body is so dramatic. We decided to use it as the way we showed this XTF on the SEMA floor.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/DSC_8926.jpeg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/DSC_8926.jpeg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)

Geoff H

11-02-2023, 07:59 AM

Amazing travel! Awesome look - good choice!

kabacj

11-05-2023, 01:20 PM

We were so excited to get the truck finished for SEMA. It was a great show with so much interest in the truck in all its versions. Folks could not believe the same kit could build Eriks, the Black Factory five truck, and my truck. This was such a fun father son project. After my son went back to school my dad pitched in to help me get the truck done in time. I could not be more thankful for that experience.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_1663.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_1663.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)

Now it was time for the payoff. Las Vegas is surrounded by the natural habitat for this truck . Of course I had actually only one trip around the block and a burnout before the XTF was loaded on the truck for Las Vegas. It was green and untested to say the least. But I go out and do 100+ mph with the GTM on the race track after doing work on it so this is similar.

We woke up early and drove out to the desert. 30 min drive. 65mph on the highway. Everything was smooth. The truck was working perfectly. WHEW!!

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_0129.jpeg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_0129.jpeg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)

Let’s see what this thing can do!

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/DSC_0528.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/DSC_0528.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)

Now a high speed pass!

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/DSC_0568.jpeg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/DSC_0568.jpeg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)

My son was so excited. He said that was like a video game and the most fun he had ever had driving.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/DSC_0492.jpeg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/DSC_0492.jpeg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)

Well we have hooked another young kid on the car hobby. Mission accomplished.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/DSC_0519.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/DSC_0519.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)

Papa

11-05-2023, 01:28 PM

Great work! The truck looks fantastic.

kabacj

11-08-2023, 06:16 AM

Thanks for all of the kind words on the XTF build. We really enjoyed the build so far.

On Saturday after SEMA we had a few hours before the XTF needed to be on the transporter heading home. Priority one was to get some pictures in the desert

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_0131.jpeg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_0131.jpeg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)

But the second most important thing was to get some setup information regarding the suspension tune.

Now keep in mind that I had not done a good alignment on the truck yet.

Our photo shoot area is north west of Las Vegas. Approximately 30 min from the Westgate hotel where we were staying. About 6.30 am we headed out to get most use of the good AM light for pictures as well as to have the most time to test.

Even without anything but an eyeball alignment the truck drove wonderfully on the highway. We were up to 70 mph and the truck was rock solid tracking very well. I was also concerned about the Raceline bead lock wheels.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/DSC_9032.jpeg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/DSC_9032.jpeg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)

When you mount the tires on these wheels you simply center the tires as best you can on the wheel then lock them in place. It’s not like a normal setup where you set the bead on the rim with air pressure and it self centers. Even though I placed the tire in the center of the wheels by eye, they were centered. I did not have any vibration. Speaking of vibration … beadlock tires are not typically balanced with weights. Again shockingly no vibration .

One thing we did notice was the speedometer was off by about 6mph. At first I thought it pretty weird that everyone was going so slow on the highway then I took out my phone and verified my speed with the GPS . I’ll need to both update the wheel size in the engine and transmission tune using the Tamahawk tuner that comes with the Ford Performance (whipple) supercharger as well as update the tire size using Forscan.

The other observation was off road.

The very rough road we chose to shoot photos had folks driving down to the park trailhead. Normal speed for those cars was walking pace. It was pretty amazing how well the XTF soaked up the bumps. As we made passes up and down the road we gradually increased our speed. 10 MPH .. 20 MPH …50 MPH soon we were going much faster than our drone could go.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/DSC_0575.jpeg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/DSC_0575.jpeg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)

We have the suspension set full soft on its adjustments and only at 60 mph did we start to need to adjust in more damping. Wow. Thats pretty insane. We just went highway speeds on a road that folks were going 5MPH because it was so rough.

Well now it was 10.00am and we were already late for our pickup heading back home. Satisfied that we had a good baseline. We put the truck on the transporter heading home.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_1682.jpeg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_1682.jpeg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)

crash

11-14-2023, 04:15 PM

Lookin good!

Congrats on a successful outing.

Any of the BD guys show up in the booth? They are usually just a couple aisles over from the FFR booth.

kabacj

11-15-2023, 06:12 AM

Lookin good!

Congrats on a successful outing.

Any of the BD guys show up in the booth? They are usually just a couple aisles over from the FFR booth.

Hey Crash,

I’m sure they stopped by, but I did not get a chance to talk with BD. The SEMA layout was so disorganized this year. With Ford and GM pulling out as a result of their union contract talks, the organizers needed to re allocate space so there weren’t giant voids. So as a result vendors were randomly put everywhere.

Ohlins were stuck with the EV vendors ?! Wrap people mixed in with electronics and tires.

SEMA is vendor overload normally but at least it helps that you can see all the truck part vendors and all the paint and body people in one area. This year it was a random mix of folks all over the place.

Dogs and cats living together.. mass hysteria. You know that kind of thing haha .

kabacj

11-16-2023, 06:22 AM

I am considering purchase of a gooseneck trailer. Two reasons. First my 1979 CJ5 is not a highway cruiser. If I am going to drive 3-6 hours to go wheeling id rather tow it than drive it. Second, if I go out to test the XTF at its limits I should have a way to drag it home because you never know what could happen
when you push the envelope. Just like I don't drive my GTM to the track just in case something happens, I want an alternative to pull the XTF.
One choice is a bumper pull trailer. I have been borrowing my friends flatbed car trailer which is rated at 10,000 Ibs GVW. My friends trailer is fine.. not perfect as I would actually like to pull the XTF farther forward for more tongue weight, but the spare tire mount is in the way.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_1587_krnFuWqctgbBwgte8rsj6J.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_1587_krnFuWqctgbBwgte8rsj6J.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)

The XTF is wider than the trailer deck and driving over/ removing the tires to load and unload gets old quick. So that leaves a buggy hauler where I have drive over fenders made of rigid plate steel and 102 inch wide deck. Or a deck over trailer where I have a fully flat deck but also a higher carry for the load. Typically a deck over
trailer carries the load 30 inches in the air.

Finally I have gooseneck vs bumper pull. I want a 14,000lb GVW trailer as that's the max I can pull with out a Commercial Drivers License .
That size trailer gives me plenty of load capacity and I will not be pushing up against the trailer limits pulling an XTF loaded down with all sorts of other things that I want to take wheeling. When pulling the 2 xtfs out to Vegas the factory five trailer was 200 Ibs over weight. It was probably all the stuff I loaded into the truck just in case I had issues when testing out in the desert. Haha. But this was a lesson in having extra capacity. When you roll on to the scales at a weigh station you want some
buffer.

I could get a 14,000 lb bumper pull trailer, but that seems like a heavy trailer to tow on a bumper for long distances. It would be totally fine around town, but my goal is something I could drive for 12 hours in bad weather at 65 mph without white knuckles.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_0135.jpeg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_0135.jpeg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)

That leaves a gooseneck. 14,000 Ibs is the low end of typical gooseneck trailers capacity. I'll need to drive a decent distance to pick one up . A 24 foot trailer is long enough for any car/truck but not long enough for 2 cars. They are mostly used in rural areas where folks need to move farm equipment, hay bails,
and other cargo.

Anyone have suggestions on who makes a good 14,000 Ib gooseneck trailer? I never get rid of anything, so
consider the fact that I will keep it forever. I am looking for a trailer that will last and be trouble free for years.

crash

11-20-2023, 12:34 PM

Goose neck trailers ride better, for sure. The draw backs are that the bed of the truck is largely used up, and interference with the truck cab is sometimes an issue.

I personally have 9 trailers. 3 of them are goose neck.

My current race car trailer that I take to the track all the time is a tag. Sway can be an issue so I have two sway arrestors on the hitch. It is rated for 15,000 lbs. I need a class A after 10,000 lbs in CA and have one. If I was buying new I would have likely gone for a less than 30' goose neck, but I got a deal on this at $4500 and it has a $10,000 awning on it. I kid you not. I went to Larson Sails to get a quote on just replacing the canvas on this awning and it was $7,000. The trailer is a Carson and I have to tell you, it needed quite a bit of work. Seems to me like they took their standard 10,000 lbs trailer and just put another axle on it and called it a 15,000 lbs rated trailer. At least that is what the purchase receipt from the previous buyer states. I have reinforced the frame significantly as the beaver tail was sagging and there was no support under where the actual race car tires were sitting which had led to the plywood warping and drooping over time. Basement was a joke, and I welded in wall supports for full length E Track on the walls. Again, just the fact that it came with an 18' X 28' awning made the effort worth while.

The tag trailer works well enough, but I would recommend a goose neck if you are not worried about price. If you are worried about price, then a used tag might make a lot of sense if the right deal comes around like in my case.

I think you can go a max of 108" wide? That makes a difference and I would go the max trailer width with any full size desert vehicle being towed. Also nice to have the rails on the sides so you don't load off the side when it is near impossible to see where you are on the trailer when loading a high vehicle like a desert truck. Drive over fenders are pretty much standard when you are trying to tow a large truck, but the higher deck trailers can be cheaper to find since they are a more equipment type of a trailer. I have a 40' flat deck equipment trailer and it was a relatively cheap 26,500 lbs rated trailer. Goose neck. The problem with it is that when it comes time to replace the tires, which I just did, it is 8 tires which costs a couple thousand bucks. On the other hand, it allowed me to just buy a 20,000 lbs piece of equipment at auction and move it around. I wasn't planning on owning something this large but was glad I had the extra capacity when the need arose. I would definitely recommend going larger than you think you need.

A non commercial Class A was not that hard to get in CA and well worth not having to worry about being pulled over for weight/incorrect license issues. In CA that is a game stopper and the vehicle will not be allowed to move until a properly licensed person shows up to move it. If you cannot arrange this quickly, the rig will be towed and storage and towing WAY surpass the costs of a Class A.

IIRC my big trailer is made by Brute, but I don't think you can go wrong with Texas Pride. You might want to look at some of the "Dirt Monkey" YouTube videos as he goes to the trailer shows every year and gets into them pretty deep. Crawling under, on top, visiting manufacturing facilities, etc.

kabacj

11-22-2023, 06:21 AM

crash

11-22-2023, 10:58 AM

I would check the actual weight rating of the axles and tires on that, or any trailer you are considering. A lot of times they will rate the trailers higher and just up the tongue weight allowance. That trailer may have as low as 5K axles on it. In my experience the axles are really the limiting factor on most trailers, and usually that is about brake component size. Once you jump up to the 10K axles everything gets "industrial".

As far as the CDL, you should talk to somebody, maybe at a trailer place, near you that can advise on what the actual laws are. Be cautious about talking to people at trailer places about proper licensing as their goal is to sell you a trailer, not have you licensed properly. Probably better to enquire with your local Highway Patrol/State Trooper/etc. Most of the local trailer sales people probably do know the laws to the T, but getting them to explain them, especially if you are not buying a trailer from them, might be difficult. Surely though, there is at least one person at every trailer business that knows exactly what is required for you to legally drive their trailers off their lot.

I have a couple friends that are CHP and they were helpful in telling me what I needed and how to "work the system". When I showed up to take the CDL driven the ride along tried to tell me I did not need a CDL. I was prepared and explained the "grey area" that my buddies told me about and why I actually did need a CDL. Also, there are "secret" things about CA law that lets you get a "non-commercial Class A" CDL with no medical exam by a Dr.

This Class A process in CA is much like the SB100 licensing of kit cars. You need to know what the process is, what your specific requirements are for specifically what you are trying to do, and then be prepared to educate the DMV on all of it...in a way that doesn't piss anybody off.

I took no classes, studied for the written test online with free materials available from both the DMV and others, aced the written test, and passed the driving test with my 33' RV trailer. The length of my RV and where the trailer wheels were at made the dock parking test difficult. This is the shortest goose neck trailer I have though, and it did work.

Things get very technical. In CA there is an exemption for 5th wheel RV trailers that makes towing a 5th wheel RV legal up to 15,000 lbs without a CDL. One of my CHP buddies pointed out that since I had converted my RV 5th wheel to a goose neck it now required me to have a CDL because it is rated at 13,500 GVW, which is over the 10k blanket law. This is what I had to explain to the ride along when I showed up for the driving test. Obviously something that would be near impossible for anyone to know unless you had researched in detail what the specific laws and exemptions are. This is why I recommended talking to local people about how to do what you want, as well as figure out specifically what you need.

Beware, in CA if you show up for a drivers test and you fail they take your license on the spot. This includes if you are simply trying to up your license class from C to A. If you don't pass the written test you will not be able to drive yourself home legally from the DMV, and you will not have a drivers license until you can retake and pass the test. There is a way around this also, although I have never actually done it, but I understand you can then pay your fees for a Class C learners permit and be able to leave the DMV with the ability to drive again, but study up exactly what is needed and what consequences are before going down this path to avoid getting stuck without a license.

BTW- I do not think you will be able to fit two vehicles on that trailer you have shown there.

EDIT: I looked up what I did on the last trailer I built and indeed the deck/frame width is 102". There is a clause that accessories like fender lips and marker lights can stick out further, and I think my trailer is at about 104"-106" when the 1-2 inches of fenders are included, but you are correct with the 102" max width.

kabacj

12-07-2023, 06:16 AM

As far as the CDL, you should talk to somebody, maybe at a trailer place, near you that can advise on what the actual laws are. Be cautious about talking to people at trailer places about proper licensing as their goal is to sell you a trailer, not have you licensed properly. Probably better to enquire with your local Highway Patrol/State Trooper/etc. Most of the local trailer sales people probably do know the laws to the T, but getting them to explain them, especially if you are not buying a trailer from them, might be difficult. Surely though, there is at least one person at every trailer business that knows exactly what is required for you to legally drive their trailers off their lot.

BTW- I do not think you will be able to fit two vehicles on that trailer you have shown there.

EDIT: I looked up what I did on the last trailer I built and indeed the deck/frame width is 102". There is a clause that accessories like fender lips and marker lights can stick out further, and I think my trailer is at about 104"-106" when the 1-2 inches of fenders are included, but you are correct with the 102" max width.

You are exactly right on all counts. After much research, the local and national break point is 26,000 lbs GVWR. The rated weight from the sticker on your truck plus the rated weight of the sticker on your trailer must be less than 26,000 lbs or you need a class A license.

Annoyingly pulling two trucks puts me very near that limit. Two cars is easy.

The other problem as you rightly point out is getting a trailer that is rated to carry 10,000 lbs means your total package gets near the 26,000 lb limit. A heavy duty trailer with 7,000 lb or 8000 lb axles and a goose neck will weigh 3500 lbs at least.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/Resized_20231023_141317.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/Resized_20231023_141317.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)

This setup that factory five use is full on CDL class A. The two trucks loaded with fuel, two spare tires, off road jacks, and tools, actually are near this trailers rated GVWR. Which is exactly my problem.

Yes I could get a jeep and an XTF empty on a 14,000 GVWR trailer add my tow truck and still be under 26,000 lbs combined but after adding all the junk we always bring along. I don’t know if it’s reasonable.

narkosys

12-07-2023, 11:57 AM

kabacj

12-08-2023, 05:46 AM

In my province we can get a heavy trailer endorsement added to our non CDL license which allows us to tow any sized trailer as long as the tow vehicle can handle it and that neither the trailer, nor tow vehicle, is equipped with air brakes. It does take a driver's test, but it is an option. Is there such a thing in your state?

Hey Narkosys, I wish there was such an allowance for a heavy trailer. I know that some states have a carve out for farm equipment but those only allow you to move things locally and of course your load needs to be something like farm equipment. In the same way some states allow for a heavier RV trailer. But New York does not have either of these things.

The fact is many folks pulling big RV trailers are overweight and they don't know it. Seems like the weight limits are not strictly enforced for people pulling an RV.

While I don't like that getting a class A license is difficult, a rig weighing over 26,000 lbs is no joke. It’s probably good that folks need some training to do so.

crash

12-11-2023, 12:24 PM

My quote function does not seem to work so this is in regards to John's last statement about getting training...

In CA no training is required. I did nothing for my Class A other than take the written test and take the driving test with the DMV.

I have driven relatively heavy rigs for many decades and I can tell you from going thru this process to actually get my Class A that the acquiring of the license will not make you any better of a heavy load driver, but it will make you legal.

I learned everything I needed to know about heavy load hauling many decades ago by riding along with other truck drivers. That is where you will learn things like how to go down grades without burning up your brakes, how to communicate with other truck drivers, what to do in emergencies, etc. If you haven't done some right seat driving with an experienced truck driver, I would highly recommend it.

Also just an FYI, CA just started restricting Class A licenses to "automatic transmission only" if you take your test in an automatic transmissioned truck. I had a stick, older Cummins diesel powered pickup and the ride along told me it was a good thing or he would have had to check the box for the auto trans restriction. I believe a lot of the full size semis are "automatic" these days, and probably why the restriction came about. Also we have a lot of hills in CA and people not using their engine braking abilities as well as using their friction brakes improperly leads to frequent brake fires and run away trucks.

My biggest worry with driving a heavy load is going down long steep grades. I inspect and service my brakes regularly. Also, Porterfield Brakes has really good pad materials for severe duty use. Not a big thing if you are driving around relatively flat areas in the middle of the country, but if you go over mountains then do not disregard your brakes. This can literally save your life, and maybe those of others.

Also, the reason I stated that you will not get two vehicles on the GN16K24 trailer that you have posted there is because of the ramps. Those have to flip up and therefore make the rear part of that trailer unusable for vehicles like cars and trucks. Works fine to put an excavator on the trailer, flip up the ramps and then tuck the boom down on the back of that trailer, but you won't be able to put two trucks on that trailer and then flip up those ramps. You could change over to slide in or removable ramps and the rear will become usable, but it is not usable for your application as it is equipped for two trucks like on the FFR trailer.

kabacj

12-11-2023, 08:21 PM

, but you won't be able to put two trucks on that trailer and then flip up those ramps. You could change over to slide in or removable ramps and the rear will become usable, but it is not usable for your application as it is equipped for two trucks like on the FFR trailer.

I agree fully on your statements regarding truck drivers. There is much to be learned. I have even more respect for class A drivers now that I know more about what they need to deal with every day.

Regarding the trailer. Yeah I kinda like the ramps that flip up and make the bed flat as it becomes more useful, but I agree it does not work with two trucks. I am going to weigh and measure both trucks to see what Im exactly working with regarding load as well as exactly how long the trailer needs to be so that I have all the wheels on the trailer bed. Of course a bigger trailer would allow for better load placement, but at least I will have a minimum specification.

kabacj

12-15-2023, 06:11 AM

Back in July I decided I wanted to keep the pro power housing. I plan on building the XTF into a pre runner with over landing capability. Having two outlets with 20 amps of 110 AC power in the bed will be useful.

Here is the setup as I pulled it out of the F 150 Bed.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_9955.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_9955.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)

When I installed the super charger I ordered the Ford performance solution by whipple through factory five. This blower allows for the Pro Power alternator using a cooling housing that accommodates the belt routing and oversized alternator.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_0633.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_0633.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)

While building the truck and in the mean time since driving it around I simply zip tied the pro power housing on to the frame in the approximate location where it will live. If you disconnect the pro power system the truck computer complains and tells you to go to Ford for Service. The truck actually will not shift into drive reliably with the pro power system disconnected. Very odd behavior, but I’m sure there is some safety related reason..

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_1504.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_1504.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_1920.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_1920.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)

My plan was to install the housing in this location.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_1953_p6i9mBwzh6n5rhiUKrCSYY.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_1953_p6i9mBwzh6n5rhiUKrCSYY.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)

Unfortunately the Ford Pro power housing does not fit inside the opening in the factory five frame.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_1919.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_1919.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)

I could of course modify the frame, OR i could use my newly learned 3D printing skills to make a new plastic housing that fits inside the frame.

Thats what I chose to do.

Ajzride

12-15-2023, 09:00 AM

Kind of a cliff hanger there. I hope you are using a high temp filament like ABS, Nylon, or ASA. If you print that out of PLA or PETG it's going to soften up and lose shape.

crash

12-15-2023, 12:41 PM

I am sure you have already done this, but since you stated that the truck will not function properly without that unit, I would think that would be important information for FFR to know and they should come up with some sort of fix for that? Doesn't look like that diagonal is doing much and may be able to be eliminated, but FFR should be able to come up with something "official". After all, these are the types of issues Beta users are supposed to identify and get remedied.

kabacj

12-15-2023, 05:48 PM

Kind of a cliff hanger there. I hope you are using a high temp filament like ABS, Nylon, or ASA. If you print that out of PLA or PETG it's going to soften up and lose shape.

Haha sorry for the cliff hanger ! I ran out of time. But yes I am using ASA for both the UV and temperature resistance.

I am sure you have already done this, but since you stated that the truck will not function properly without that unit, I would think that would be important information for FFR to know and they should come up with some sort of fix for that? Doesn't look like that diagonal is doing much and may be able to be eliminated, but FFR should be able to come up with something "official". After all, these are the types of issues Beta users are supposed to identify and get remedied.

100% Crash. As the first XTF built on the Gen 14 F150 platform I was a beta builder ++. The gen 13 F150 did not come with the pro power option so provision for mounting the outlet was not included in the XTF frame.

I have reported everything that changed in the “All new” gen 14 f150 to factory five. The changes and feedback were incorporated into new kits with the idea that it sure would be cool to buy a gen 13 F150 and turn it into a Gen 15 plus the XTF good parts.

As you can imagine the F150 is not all new. The computer systems are all new. I will give Ford that. My 2021 F150 can self drive. The Steering rack is capable of 100% servo control as are the brakes and accelerator. To be honest I’m not a fan of all the gizmos getting between me and driving . Ford released all the blue cruise technology in the gen 14. The cameras are amazing. The 360 view is perfect for driving on to a trailer or just in tight spaces. I can see exactly how close i am anywhere around the truck. It has radar…

I could easily and very quickly modify the factory five frame so the factory pro power housing will fit. That would be too easy. While I have some time I figured let’s redesign something that works perfectly just to see if I can. You know how that goes.

Oh one last thing. The Ford pro power housing is actually half air inside . It’s made bigger so when installed on the lightning you can have more outlets with higher amperage. The racer in me can’t have that. We have a giant housing for no reason. I needed to make better use of space.

kabacj

12-15-2023, 06:28 PM

So after finding that the pro power housing would not fit, I decided to see how it worked.

Here is the front view of the housing with the electronics removed.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/(edited)_IMG_1906.png?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/(edited)_IMG_1906.png?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)

Here is the back view

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/(edited)_IMG_1907.png?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/(edited)_IMG_1907.png?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)

The right hand side of this housing actually is empty. Nothing in it but air. I can size down the housing and still enclose all of the electronics AND justify my 3D printer purchase. Win win.

Here is my first draft version of the front plate.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/(edited)_IMG_1908.png?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/(edited)_IMG_1908.png?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)

The Ford housing has a cover for the outlets, so I incorporated that into my faceplate.
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/(edited)_IMG_1909.png?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/(edited)_IMG_1909.png?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)

My design uses all the hardware and gaskets from the Ford housing just for efficiency’s sake.

So far so good. I think this is going to work.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/(edited)_IMG_1911.png?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/(edited)_IMG_1911.png?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)

Now I just need to add a few more details and the face plate will be done.

kabacj

12-20-2023, 05:59 AM

With the basic design of the outlet plate for the pro power housing done. I figured now is a good time to see how it all fits together using the ford hardware and gaskets.

Here is the finished outlet plate from the front.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_1974.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_1974.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)

From the back you can see all the electronics installed.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_1976.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_1976.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)

I think it’s pretty obvious Ford had lots of wasted space in the housing so that they could have one housing for the F150 with pro power and two alternators as well as a high amperage solution for the F150 lightning in the same size cutout in the bed wall.

Now that the front works well I simply needed to design a rear cover to close the box up .

Again I wanted to re use the Ford hardware. So this is my solution

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_1977.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_1977.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)

It’s very water tight and sturdy.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_1978.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_1978.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)

And finally I need a flange to mount the housing to the bed.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_1918.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_1918.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)

And here it is all put together.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_1979.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_1979.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)

I still have a few minor details I am not happy with, but in general I think this will work. I’ll reprint a few of the parts in high resolution to get thinner layer lines. If all goes well I’ll install it this weekend.

crash

12-20-2023, 10:52 AM

I have to just say, that is very cool.

The more I see people doing with 3D printers the more I want one.

Now to convince the wife I NEED one.

Namrups

12-20-2023, 12:15 PM

Just keep in mind that the "printer" part of the equation is the easy part. Learning to design the part you want is much harder along with the fact that computer programs that allow you to do the design can be very expensive and have a steep learning curve.

kabacj

12-21-2023, 05:57 AM

I have to just say, that is very cool.

The more I see people doing with 3D printers the more I want one.

Now to convince the wife I NEED one.

While I’m not trying to crate domestic unrest. You need one. I can’t tell you how many things I use the printer for. From making a housing like this, to printing a housing that makes the truck think the grill shutters are still attached to making holders for the shock remote reservoirs to making a replacement cap for a bearing cover that was lost.

Yes you need to consider the heat your part will deal with and strength of the plastic you are printing, but i have found with a little creativity and material choice you really can solve many problems that formerly were not in the realm of an weekend warrior.

Just keep in mind that the "printer" part of the equation is the easy part. Learning to design the part you want is much harder along with the fact that computer programs that allow you to do the design can be very expensive and have a steep learning curve.

Yes you are correct Scott, the printing part is the easy part. But you can get software that works well for free. Fusion 360 has a free version that will allow you to make everything I did, and you can get Solid works for 99 dollars a year. Both programs could draw this part easily.

I only started using fusion 360 for drawing stuff a few years ago and am 100% YouTube taught. I would encourage anyone who has the desire to put a little time into learning to take the plunge.

Crash, download fusion 360 and start to play around and see if you like the drawing part of this process. Once you can make the software do what you want, the world is your oyster.

My post makes it look like i fired these parts out first try in a few days, but i actually went through several iterations trying solutions and revising the design. Printer filament is super cheap and I set the printer going over night or when I’m at work and I wake up or come home to a finished part.

The next frontier is making castings in aluminum from the plastic parts. I dont have a good problem to solve that needs this process yet, but I’m sure I’ll find one.

Erik W. Treves

12-21-2023, 09:12 AM

nice work

kabacj

12-24-2023, 07:22 AM

I was doing some suspension setup adjusting the limits of travel on the rear of the truck this weekend. The travel on this truck amazes me every time.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_1934.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_1934.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)

then fully compressed.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_1947.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_1947.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)

I want to make sure that I have every last bit of travel available in the setup before I start off road testing.

With the super long travel its important that I have located wires and hoses out of the way and also allowed for suspension movement in the brake lines and wires.

crash

12-26-2023, 12:31 PM

kabacj

12-27-2023, 06:26 PM

You probably have already, but don't forget about articulation. With off road and solid rear axle suspension in particular the articulation can be extreme and can cant the rear tires greatly. Need to make sure there is plenty of clearance for that. Does this truck have sway bars?

Yep agree the twist of the rear suspension can move the tires quite a bit, but with this 4 link setup the travel is still inside the fenders. The tires tuck up in there nicely.

For the anti roll bars, yes we have them both front and rear.

I think they actually contribute quite a bit to how well the truck handles on the road. As shocking as it sounds this truck actually is a corner carver. I’m not sure if it’s the spring rates, or the wider track or the anti roll bars, or all three combined. But XTF carves a corner much better than the stock F150. I honestly am shocked every time i take a corner quickly. A truck shouldn’t be this flat and composed.

The front ARB is connected to the the xtf frame and it’s out of the way of any trail hazards.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/71932636246_2720204D-1857-432A-8F66-D71B442F65D4.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/71932636246_2720204D-1857-432A-8F66-D71B442F65D4.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)

For rock crawling , it’s probably best to disconnect both anti roll bars to allow free articulation.

In the desert, I’m not sure. Maybe flatter cornering would be best.

The rear anti roll bar is out of the way of trail hazards except for during full suspension compression.

Here is how the arb looks during full extension.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_2014.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_2014.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)

The center section of the bar is barely bellow the differential

During full compression the arms do get a bit lower , so maybe they would hit a trail hazard . But you just did a really big jump to compress the suspension that far ha.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_2016.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_2016.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)

crash

12-28-2023, 10:44 AM

kabacj

12-29-2023, 09:48 AM

Couple of observations...

The front ARB looks good.

The rear? Not so much. Maybe a suggestion for FFR to try a rear ARB where the bar is actually up on the frame and only the links go up and down to the fixed points on the rear axle? Yes you need some room above and below the ARB, but it can be a straight piece of 4130 tube and it solves a lot of issues.

I think FFR were aiming for an ARB setup that would work for the street. I think they hit the mark they’re considering how well the truck turns on the road. There is no way you could ever get that much suspension articulation on the street … well driving legally…

For off road use, yeah a rear bar that is mounted higher would work.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_2017.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_2017.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)

Here is a design i grabbed from a trophy truck.

It seems like there is enough room for a design like this. It’s much more complex and expensive, but I’m pretty sure I could bolt it on using sprint car parts like I did on my GTM.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=9836&d=1337567673

kabacj

01-17-2024, 06:07 PM

So i finally got around to installing my 3D printed pro power housing.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_1979.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_1979.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)

Of course I realize as soon as it’s in place that I really need to modify the surround so I can install some E track along the top rail of the bed. The E track idea happened after I finished the housing design. The top of the surround was too wide. I needed to move it out of the way of the E track.

No problem I simply modified the surround in Fusion 360 and I printed up a draft surround out of some gold filament I had laying around.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_2048.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_2048.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)

This is actually one of the nice parts about making totally custom parts. I can easily change them and reprint as needed.

Since I needed to reprint a few parts I figured id take them to the next level as well. The ford factory pro power housing has brass inserts in the plastic to tolerate higher torque on the screws holding it together. Decided to add the brass inserts as well.

Here they are installed.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_2067.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_2067.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)

Adding the brass inserts was an easy step. I just opened up the holes in the face plate drawing to accommodate the brass inserts. The inserts register into the plastic so I can just apply heat and they go right into place exactly aligned.

This is what they look like.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_2068.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_2068.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)

Simply place them on a special installation tool mounted on a soldering iron to heat them up enough so they melt the plastic as you insert them and in a second you have a brass insert!

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_2069.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_2069.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)

The new design seems to work so I am reprinting the parts in black ASA filament to try this installation again.

Ajzride

01-17-2024, 07:04 PM

kabacj

01-18-2024, 05:53 PM

Heat inserts are okay if the forces are not trying too much to pull them straight out. I’m a huge fan of square nuts because they can be inserted into prints from any orientation, hexagonal nuts only go in flat. Design a hole into your part, pause the print before the first layer closing the hole, drop the nut in to have it fully enclosed.

Thanks AJ. Yeah i agree with your point.

My problem was that I’m printing with ASA filament. Just keeping everything attached to the build plate and avoiding any warping required a preheat of the enclosure. Opening the enclosure and letting in a draft of cold air would surely make the print turn into a potato chip instantly .

Even pausing the print might be a problem based on how touchy the setup is . I get the enclosure up to 30 degrees Celsius (86 degrees F) and keep it there for the duration of the 4 hour print. That seems to avoid any warping.

When the print is finished if i am waiting there and open the enclosure as soon as the print is done I can hear the print pulling off the build plate with the draft of cold air.

Thanks for the feedback. I am going to try the captured nut method using some PLA filament .

Ajzride

01-18-2024, 06:44 PM

Thanks AJ. Yeah i agree with your point.

My problem was that I’m printing with ASA filament. Just keeping everything attached to the build plate and avoiding any warping required a preheat of the enclosure. Opening the enclosure and letting in a draft of cold air would surely make the print turn into a potato chip instantly .

Even pausing the print might be a problem based on how touchy the setup is . I get the enclosure up to 30 degrees Celsius (86 degrees F) and keep it there for the duration of the 4 hour print. That seems to avoid any warping.

When the print is finished if i am waiting there and open the enclosure as soon as the print is done I can hear the print pulling off the build plate with the draft of cold air.

Thanks for the feedback. I am going to try the captured nut method using some PLA filament .

It's much colder in Long Island than Houston, but I've found I can cut out 90% of warping by just using a raft. It wastes a little filament, but not as much as ruining a print or two. Once you dial in your raft settings they peel right off and don't require any clean up.

kabacj

01-20-2024, 01:05 PM

It's much colder in Long Island than Houston, but I've found I can cut out 90% of warping by just using a raft. It wastes a little filament, but not as much as ruining a print or two. Once you dial in your raft settings they peel right off and don't require any clean up.

Thanks AJ. Yeah I’m near the capacity of my build plate, but I can try a raft. It will not hurt thats for sure.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/Screenshot_2024-01-20_125657.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/Screenshot_2024-01-20_125657.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)

kabacj

01-23-2024, 06:10 AM

After many iterations of my mini pro power housing I was finally able to re assemble it and do the install… or so I thought. Just as I slid it into position the back of the housing it the tail light bucket.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_2093_9j65e1nJZBAKJSDtHqk2BS.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_2093_9j65e1nJZBAKJSDtHqk2BS.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)

I trimmed the housing so it would fit. Here you can see how much material I had to remove.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_2089.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_2089.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)

I am not happy with that. I wanted this part to fit in like a production quality part that Ford would make so that means back to the drawing board.

I removed some material from the housing being careful to allow for clearance of the electronics inside. I re printed the housing.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/72755734719_FDCEEE6C-A3B5-4335-A28B-A134A5DE5682.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/72755734719_FDCEEE6C-A3B5-4335-A28B-A134A5DE5682.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)

After the reassembly the hosing fits right in like it should.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_2091.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_2091.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)

I need all this snow to melt so I can install the T Track and E Track on the bed rails. The whole point of redesigning the Pro Power housing was to allow for the E track to be installed along the top edge of the bed.

I need to wait for this snow to melt however. I should have put the truck in the garage before it snowed.. oh well. The weather man says we should get some rain this week so I will do the install next weekend.

crash

01-23-2024, 11:38 AM

Just curious...what do you think that part has cost you in time and materials so far?

kabacj

01-23-2024, 06:06 PM

Just curious...what do you think that part has cost you in time and materials so far?

Well a whole spool of PLA filament costs about 12 bucks. I use that for my prototypes. I could make 4 or 5 complete housings from each spool. The black parts I printed from ASA filament since its UV stable and will tolerate the heat of the sun. ASA is just like ABS you are probably familiar with. ASA is a bit more expensive about $30 per spool. So I would estimate less than 5 dollars per completed housing .

If I were making these as a business. I could make and complete 2 housings per day. Kicking off the prints over night and again when I wake up.

You probably noticed I made each part with quick and flawless assembly in mind. Each part quickly registers into position even if you carelessly push it together.

I also have not spent any time optimizing material used, or production speed. I am sure I could use half as much filament and have plenty of strength. The current housing is much stronger than the Ford housing.

Regarding my time.

A few hours drawing and re drawing the parts as I modified the prototypes so they work and fit exactly as I wanted.

3D printed parts are very fun. This is actually my first complex project, so clearly is not that hard to learn.

I have functional 3d printed parts all over the truck

crash

01-24-2024, 11:46 AM

Good to hear that the filament material is cheap. Are there any other consumables on the printer?

Sounds like your time, and probably the upfront cost of the equipment, are the biggest expenses?

Windsor

01-24-2024, 07:30 PM

Good to hear that the filament material is cheap. Are there any other consumables on the printer?

Sounds like your time, and probably the upfront cost of the equipment, are the biggest expenses?

At some point, everything on the printer is a consumable item. :)

But in terms of print-to-print, just the filament cost.

So yeah, time on the CAD is the biggest "cost" on any new part, assuming hardware and CAD license are already shored up.

On the note of CAD, Fusion 360 has a hobby license that makes it free. They don't make it easy to find the link to do the registration for such, but it can be done. Also, veterans can pick up a 1yr license for SolidWorks for cheap, I think it was $25 for me last year. I don't think SolidWorks has another cheap license for hobbyists, so if you're not a veteran and your employer doesn't have it, you're out of luck.

Both Autodesk and SolidWorks have training plans that'll get you started using the product enough to make some easy objects. Also, "Google University" has been pretty good to me.

kabacj

01-25-2024, 06:04 AM

Good to hear that the filament material is cheap. Are there any other consumables on the printer?

Sounds like your time, and probably the upfront cost of the equipment, are the biggest expenses?

Yes the equipment is the biggest expense. In order to print ASA which is one of the more useful plastics for outside or use on cars you will also need an enclosure. The enclosure stabilizes the temperature around the part you are printing and avoids drafts. You can buy pre made enclosures for about $250 - $350 dollars or DIY one for much less.

Regarding the printers. You can get hobby printers for cheap $300 or so , but they are projects vs a professional tool . Professional printers are $800-$1000.

I went with a Prusa printer. It’s made to print around the clock for long periods of time and has great software and hardware support.

kabacj

01-25-2024, 06:12 AM

I don't think SolidWorks has another cheap license for hobbyists, so if you're not a veteran and your employer doesn't have it, you're out of luck.

Both Autodesk and SolidWorks have training plans that'll get you started using the product enough to make some easy objects. Also, "Google University" has been pretty good to me.

Hey Rob,

Although it’s difficult to find on their site. I found a hobby solidworks license for $99 per year.

Many professionals prefer solid works. It’s what Factory Five use to model their products . Personally, I like Fusion 360 a bit better as it’s a one stop shop for everything I want to do from Modeling to production. That said, I am far less familiar with solid works so it’s possible I just dont know how to use the solidworks software and the same features are available in both platforms.

crash

01-25-2024, 12:56 PM

Rob,

Not to side track this thread too much, but that is great info.

Thanks so much.

John,

Thanks for telling us exactly what you are using.

Windsor

01-25-2024, 06:40 PM

Hey Rob,

Although it’s difficult to find on their site. I found a hobby solidworks license for $99 per year.

Many professionals prefer solid works. It’s what Factory Five use to model their products . Personally, I like Fusion 360 a bit better as it’s a one stop shop for everything I want to do from Modeling to production. That said, I am far less familiar with solid works so it’s possible I just dont know how to use the solidworks software and the same features are available in both platforms.

Yeah, every Mechanical Engineer (by paid profession) that I know first-hand or second-hand uses SolidWorks, which fits in well with F5's use of it.

My introduction to Fusion 360 was from Dallas Makerspace, which has a (low-end and old) Haas CNC mill. They only had tool libraries for Fusion360 so you were required to use F360 for the CAM setup. I got into 3D printing after that.

kabacj

01-31-2024, 06:14 AM

My next project was installing some E track along the tops of the bed rails to act as tie down points.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_2112.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_2112.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)

After a few cuts on the saw I got the front edge aligned and positioned the holes in the rail so both the front and rear edge would be strongly anchored as well as allow clearance in he front for me to drill and tap the hole in the bed frame.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_2110.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_2110.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)

Now I needed to figure out a way to make the rear edge look finished. This is what the rear edge profile looks like.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_2145.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_2145.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)

I considered cutting and welding a return piece where I could continue the aluminum edge cleaning up the back view. I couldn’t Finish the inside of the welded on edge without lots of machining. 3d printing to the rescue.

I drew a part that would fit into the extrusion and printed out a prototype.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/72815931996_9DFB72BB-E09B-40E4-A10D-D11D46330843.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/72815931996_9DFB72BB-E09B-40E4-A10D-D11D46330843.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_2143.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_2143.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)

That works. So I printed out the final part.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_2142.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_2142.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)

Next I drilled an tapped the frame to accept the fasteners. Unfortunately the head on the fasteners were a bit too big to fit perfectly into the holes in the E track but they will hold it in place until I can get the proper size fasteners. I need to pull the whole thing apart again anyway to de burr everything and remove any chips of steel that are trapped behind the e-track.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_2125.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_2125.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)

crash

01-31-2024, 10:48 AM

Anodize those black and they will stay looking good forever.

kabacj

01-31-2024, 08:37 PM

Anodize those black and they will stay looking good forever.

Yes thats a good point.

As you may remember a few projects ago I welded up some anodizing tanks that would work perfectly for these rails.
https://hosting.photobucket.com/albums/w389/kabacj/Factory%20Five%20GTM%20roll%20cage%20modifications/A01FCBC9-5814-478F-B8FC-3C531169571B_zpsphgwq1rz.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/albums/w389/kabacj/Factory%20Five%20GTM%20roll%20cage%20modifications/A01FCBC9-5814-478F-B8FC-3C531169571B_zpsphgwq1rz.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)

I’ll add some anodizing to the list of things to do. Great idea.

kabacj

02-02-2024, 05:47 AM

With the aircraft style L track installed now it was time to get some mounting hardware. I found two styles that seemed to work well.

One is this style where it has has a wide base locking into two holes in the track.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/72815945887_2FE3D471-D11A-4352-BFA0-ABCE9BE6463A.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/72815945887_2FE3D471-D11A-4352-BFA0-ABCE9BE6463A.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)

This seems to work pretty well and I would trust it to hold a motorcycle or something of that size.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_2127.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_2127.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)

Then there is this style that fits into one hole on the track . Also plenty strong , but probably for lighter loads.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_2140.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_2140.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)

With 4 of each type in the truck as well as some ratchet straps at all times I’ll be ready to haul whatever I need at a moments notice.

Higgybulin

02-02-2024, 09:33 AM

What did you use to smooth the ends caps?

kabacj

02-02-2024, 05:44 PM

What did you use to smooth the ends caps?

Hey Higgy,

I actually didn’t do any post processing of this print. It’s right off the printer.

I did consider using acetone vapor to smooth the surface, but semi melting the surface would likely make the part shiny and round the edges a bit. I wanted the sharper edges and the matte finish so I just pulled the part of the printer and installed it.

I did print with thin layers. I if I remember correctly I printed at 1/10 of a millimeter layers.

Blitzboy54

02-06-2024, 09:19 AM

THANKS Crash!

Thats the type of experience I was looking for.

While I don't want to pay a high price, I know I will own this trailer for a long time. My 24 foot 10k enclosed race trailer has served me well. I’d like about that size in a goose neck as well. Hauling two trucks, even the XTF and a lighter shorter Jeep is going to be pushing the 26,000 lb weight combined GVW weight limit in NY.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_1814.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_1814.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)

Unfortunately getting a CDL in NY is a little annoying. It means signing up for a commercial drivers license training course that includes rental of the rig for taking the test. I wouldn't mind learning how to drive a Semi, however it’s a time investment.

It looks like getting a de rated goose neck might be my best bet. I can get a 16k trailer de rated to 14,000k which will keep me under the combined 26,000 lb GVW limit. It sounds like even if I have a heavier than 14,000 trailer empty , I could be ticketed because the combined rating is above the CDL limit.

Oh well. Seems that the DMV laws have not kept up with the capability of todays pickups.

This is correct. I had a CDL in Oregon, when I moved back to NY I surrendered it because it just wasn't worth the hassle or annual fees for a "just in case" license.

kabacj

02-06-2024, 11:55 PM

This weekend I spent some time working through the unfinished items on the truck build. In my rush to get the truck ready for SEMA I was focusing on the things that needed to work vs the nice to have options.

The two items were the rear running lights and the backup lights in the bumper. I really hate cutting into the factory wiring harness. The workmanship is so high, these things will last many many years. As soon as you cut into them however they are typically worse. Since the tail lights are LED the wires are also very thin.

Since I am not towing, I decided to use the 8 pin trailer wiring harness and a trailer wire to plug into the factory electrical.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_2175.jpeg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_2175.jpeg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)

Lots of benefits doing it this way as the harness is fused and has plenty of capacity and I can just use the a trailer wiring kit and I am good to go with an already made system.

I have power wires for everything needed including the running lights, backup lights as well as my off road chase lights.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_2176.jpeg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_2176.jpeg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)

In my opinion it’s worth spending time on making the truck wiring bullet proof. Everything soldered, and wrapped with marine grade adhesive lined heat shrink tubing.

It does take lots of time.

But after a few hours of re routing the factory F150 harness and making up the extension harness I had light.

Here are the backup lights in the bumper. The kit backup lights are excellent.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_0245.jpeg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_0245.jpeg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)

And a dramatic smoky shot of the rear running lights

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_0244.jpeg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_0244.jpeg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)

Erik W. Treves

02-07-2024, 12:54 AM

Looks great - I still haven't wired up any of my lights in the back :)

kabacj

02-24-2024, 07:10 PM

I am looking forward to some testing like this with my XTF!! That suspension travel and smooth ride over insane terrain is next level.

https://youtube.com/shorts/jBzkl-x-s3M?si=TLnIdNwzc4O1hihX

kabacj

03-12-2024, 04:56 PM

Messy wiring bothers me.

In order to finish the SEMA build on time I needed to cut corners on the things that I could tidy up after the show.

Wires and hoses were simply zip tied in place.

The kit provides wire clamps like this to organize hoses and wires.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_2400.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_2400.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)

Since I’m still developing the truck I wanted a solution that was easily changed moved and modified. Something more finished looking than zip ties but just as easy to change. I also didn’t want to drill any holes in the frame that would show after I moved a fastener. I know very minor, but it’s a thing for me.

One cool thing about 3d printing is that it’s possible to make hollow parts. I needed a fastener that would locate the hose or wiring harness on the square tube as well as hold the wire or tube in position.

I came up with this design. Here is a cross section showing the hollow channel.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/cross_section.JPG?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/cross_section.JPG?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)

A zip tie holds the wire management part to the square tube as well as the wire loom

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_2373.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_2373.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)

I printed off a bunch of them to manage the wire loom as it routes down the drivers side of the frame.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_2391.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_2391.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)

Here is a shot of the first sections of the main harness securely attached to the frame, but easily moved.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_2399.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_2399.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)

Time consuming work, but satisfying when all the wires neatly follow the frame and can be held out of harms way.

kabacj

03-15-2024, 07:03 AM

Back in July I discovered another thing that ford changed between Gen 13 and Gen 14 F150s. The vapor canister. As you can imagine Ford goes through great lengths to ensure that fuel vapors dont vent into the atmosphere. Our problem is the shape and frame mounting points change between generations of the F150.

Here you can see how the canister tucks between the frame and transmission on the drivers side of the frame.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_0193.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_0193.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)

Here I have it clamped in place using the hardware and brackets that factory five provide that fit the Gen 13 F150.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_0191.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_0191.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)

I could sort of make it work maybe using a bunch of washers to adjust for the change in mounting angles between the frame and canister.

The rear mounts are pretty good I could make these work. Cutting and welding the factory five brackets was an option, but I don’t know if I want the canister to live in this spot.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_0192.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_0192.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)

Like the wiring, I didn’t have time to sort out an elegant solution to mount the canister so I just zip tied everything in place for SEMA.

Since I love having a robot make stuff for me …3d printing to the rescue.

I printed a bracket that captures the frame for the rear mount .

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_2387.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_2387.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)

Then made a two part bracket for the front mount.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_2384.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_2384.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)

This shows the gold prototype I used to verify my part dimension's before a few tweaks then making a final print for installation.

Check off another problem solved by the 3d printer.

kabacj

03-29-2024, 05:59 PM

As I work my way to the back of the truck tidying up all the wires I needed to move the electronics that control the fuel pump. The kit provides a plate to mount on to the frame Then I used that plate to attach this fuel pump controller housing to the frame.

When I removed the fuel pump controller box I saw that it was made to snap into place on the F150. Probably so as the truck can be quickly put together on the assembly line. The pump controller is snapped into place then fastened with bolts.

Just for fun, I wanted to see if I could make a mount that also allowed me to snap the housing into place then bolt it. I printed the part on the left.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_2489.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_2489.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)

Thanks to 3d printing I can make a mount that snaps to the Ford part with a satisfying click.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_2490.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_2490.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)

And here it is installed. That was only a few hours work to save a few seconds haha .

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_2491.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_2491.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)

While I was at it, i made some parts to keep the stainless steel brake lines looking neat.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_2456.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_2456.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)

These work much better than the zip ties I was using.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_2463.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_2463.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)

kabacj

04-07-2024, 06:31 AM

Now that the truck is in great shape from construction perspective with everything tidy like Ford intended, its time to add some accessories.

Our family are big skiers/snowboarders so we make many trips to northern Vermont every winter. I like using the ski carrier on the truck because it allows me to organize our gear and the pod is also waterproof. Plenty of trips start in the rain here at home and transition to snow up north.

Here is the setup on the F350.
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_2024.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_2024.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)

I purchased some T track rails from Yakima to mount on the XTF fenders.

Installation was easy.

First remove the fenders. I filled in the holes I was previously using to mount the fenders with some body filler.

i marked all the holes using the T track rail as a guide. I put a fastener in all of the holes.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_2497.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_2497.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)

Drilled and tapped all the holes for 1/4 20 button head faseners.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_2499.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_2499.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_2496.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_2496.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)

T tracks installed and the racks slide right in.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_2538.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_2538.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)

And we are done. The XTF with a Yakima GrandTour cargo box. Ready for some snow.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_2540.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w389/kabacj/IMG_2540.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)

Kempo

11-28-2024, 09:28 AM

kabacj

12-05-2024, 05:58 PM

Hi John,

Started reading on this thread last night, amazing work as usual. Will keep on reading on it and getting your insights on different aspects of the build. Just put a deposit on a kit this week. Will be building it with my son soon. Keep up the good work and info coming.

HEY HUGO!! Great to hear from you.

Yes you are going to love it. It’s such a special truck. I need to catch the thread up on my upgrades. Thanks for the reminder

kabacj

12-05-2024, 06:57 PM

After showing truck at SEMA then taking it out in the desert for a test run and some pics. I needed to rebuild a few things that I did quickly so I could get the truck rolling and get it to the show.

Now thats all done , so it was time to take the truck out and see what it can do.

I took it out to Rausch Creek off road park. As usual always a learning experience.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/06ee4003-9f17-4d54-b243-ef82d3ed328d/0c3b8538-8f69-4533-b65f-aa2848a45542.jpeg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/06ee4003-9f17-4d54-b243-ef82d3ed328d/0c3b8538-8f69-4533-b65f-aa2848a45542.jpeg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)

On the good side I could really go as fast as I dared on the rutted out trails. The truck was not limiting me, just my inclination to stay out of the trees going that fast.

Of course there was a jump and I needed to see how the XTF jumps.

Well for some reason I figured you just jump and it works. Of course thats not how it is. I should have known better as an avid snowboarder and mountain biker and motocross rider im very comfortable in the air. There is a VERY big difference in a truck. Body position does nothing to alter your trajectory. It’s only throttle and maybe a tap of the brakes.

But anyway jump number 1.
https://hosting.photobucket.com/06ee4003-9f17-4d54-b243-ef82d3ed328d/9ca84422-0600-40fc-9100-3f2b0433296c.jpeg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/06ee4003-9f17-4d54-b243-ef82d3ed328d/9ca84422-0600-40fc-9100-3f2b0433296c.jpeg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)

Ok that was nothing. Time to send it ha ha !

https://hosting.photobucket.com/06ee4003-9f17-4d54-b243-ef82d3ed328d/82e657e4-ce86-458a-ac84-58e56ac3341d.jpeg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/06ee4003-9f17-4d54-b243-ef82d3ed328d/82e657e4-ce86-458a-ac84-58e56ac3341d.jpeg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)

Oof! That was a bit hard on the front, but alls well. Let’s try a bit more gas on the launch

https://hosting.photobucket.com/06ee4003-9f17-4d54-b243-ef82d3ed328d/1442bb52-a2a0-46ff-9c52-660434e95a1d.jpeg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/06ee4003-9f17-4d54-b243-ef82d3ed328d/1442bb52-a2a0-46ff-9c52-660434e95a1d.jpeg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)

https://hosting.photobucket.com/06ee4003-9f17-4d54-b243-ef82d3ed328d/30cb6ac2-9260-465b-aaf2-324909be7d98.jpeg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/06ee4003-9f17-4d54-b243-ef82d3ed328d/30cb6ac2-9260-465b-aaf2-324909be7d98.jpeg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)

Ok getting better, but clearly there is some driver skill to this jumping stuff.

The other thing you will notice on every production truck jump promo add. They take off on a nice incline and land on a nice decline. That does wonders for a soft landing. We were just jumping all wheels in the air on to flat ground. Much more challenging for the suspension but very fun.

kabacj

12-07-2024, 08:06 AM

With some experience off road we learned a few things.

Mud... turns out competition off road people cover their truck in wax or silicone to help shed the mud that sticks to everything... who knew. Ill do that next time.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/06ee4003-9f17-4d54-b243-ef82d3ed328d/b34f5ed3-8815-45d2-b88b-bbd579b27f6c.heic?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/06ee4003-9f17-4d54-b243-ef82d3ed328d/b34f5ed3-8815-45d2-b88b-bbd579b27f6c.heic?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)

Its time for some upgrades.

First thing is the stock steering knuckle.

Two reasons. First the stock F150 lariat knuckle is cast aluminum. Very light weight, but it will crack instead of bend when pushed too far. I am pretty sure that its impossible to overload the stock steering knuckle on the street, unless you crash into something.

Doing dumb things off road... maybe it needs to be stronger.

Second, Ford changed the geometry of the steering knuckle on both the raptor and tremor. When IKON made their steering knuckle they copied the geometry of the tremor part. Clearly there is a market for this upgrade as IKON created a product so I purchased their solution.

you can see the changes in this pic. Very subtle geometry changes but significant casting changes as well as a more ductile (but also physically heavier) material.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/06ee4003-9f17-4d54-b243-ef82d3ed328d/fd31dd68-8632-4a0f-9b81-df2a41adaf70.heic?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/06ee4003-9f17-4d54-b243-ef82d3ed328d/fd31dd68-8632-4a0f-9b81-df2a41adaf70.heic?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)

the stock steering knuckle easily comes off

https://hosting.photobucket.com/06ee4003-9f17-4d54-b243-ef82d3ed328d/5ed71d29-7960-4226-8ddb-d275a811a85e.heic?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/06ee4003-9f17-4d54-b243-ef82d3ed328d/5ed71d29-7960-4226-8ddb-d275a811a85e.heic?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)

https://hosting.photobucket.com/06ee4003-9f17-4d54-b243-ef82d3ed328d/e32a56a0-a41e-41fa-927c-736566a4ddac.heic?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/06ee4003-9f17-4d54-b243-ef82d3ed328d/e32a56a0-a41e-41fa-927c-736566a4ddac.heic?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)

the new steering kunckle back on.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/06ee4003-9f17-4d54-b243-ef82d3ed328d/ed1e1633-c3cf-4b33-b156-8c5d5d960c94.heic?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/06ee4003-9f17-4d54-b243-ef82d3ed328d/ed1e1633-c3cf-4b33-b156-8c5d5d960c94.heic?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)

a few benefits from the upgrade.

Stronger parts.
less severe angles on the suspension that actually allow for more travel before the ball joints bind.
increase in static ride height with less severe suspension angles.

here you can see the ride height before and after the upgrade.

Before
https://hosting.photobucket.com/06ee4003-9f17-4d54-b243-ef82d3ed328d/bfaf5dd7-d779-4f14-9445-c487b4db2695.heic?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/06ee4003-9f17-4d54-b243-ef82d3ed328d/bfaf5dd7-d779-4f14-9445-c487b4db2695.heic?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)

and after
https://hosting.photobucket.com/06ee4003-9f17-4d54-b243-ef82d3ed328d/59f3ed72-55c6-45fe-9c75-166e4d5f2975.heic?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/06ee4003-9f17-4d54-b243-ef82d3ed328d/59f3ed72-55c6-45fe-9c75-166e4d5f2975.heic?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)

note that normally I have the front ride height set at 11.5 inches under the lowest part of the frame. For the steering knuckle swap I had the front springs fully backed off with zero preload.

kabacj

12-10-2024, 06:34 AM

After running around in the dirt for hours obviously the truck is subject to lots of vibration. It was a reasonable thing to check the tightness of all of the fasteners.

Everything was fine but I did find this part of the front shock that looked suspect.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/06ee4003-9f17-4d54-b243-ef82d3ed328d/0c2dab67-8ad0-4da2-8bf1-207ddcda19b1.jpeg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/06ee4003-9f17-4d54-b243-ef82d3ed328d/0c2dab67-8ad0-4da2-8bf1-207ddcda19b1.jpeg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)

I was really worried that I did some damage to the fox shocks. After some research I found out that the shocks are fully rebuildable and tunable so I just needed to figure out what the problem was.

First I 3d printed a shock holder out of TPU ( a hard rubber like plastic ) so I could hold the shock in the vice

https://hosting.photobucket.com/06ee4003-9f17-4d54-b243-ef82d3ed328d/826cf183-faab-4df5-b7b8-3a6ead9489f1.png?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/06ee4003-9f17-4d54-b243-ef82d3ed328d/826cf183-faab-4df5-b7b8-3a6ead9489f1.png?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)

The shocks are pressurized with nitrogen. Usually about 200 lbs. The next thing I did was to check the pressure to see if any leaked out

https://hosting.photobucket.com/06ee4003-9f17-4d54-b243-ef82d3ed328d/840c76bf-1685-4503-85b8-9ee0602b2772.heic?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/06ee4003-9f17-4d54-b243-ef82d3ed328d/840c76bf-1685-4503-85b8-9ee0602b2772.heic?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)

Well I does not seem like much nitrogen leaked out, but just in case I let all the pressure out of the shock.

With the pressure out of the shock body it was very easy to screw the end cap back down and re tighten the set screw. Whew thats a relief. The set screw was loose so that’s why the cap started to come out of the shock body.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/06ee4003-9f17-4d54-b243-ef82d3ed328d/7a9650b4-ff0e-4f91-970e-5710b1fde860.heic?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/06ee4003-9f17-4d54-b243-ef82d3ed328d/7a9650b4-ff0e-4f91-970e-5710b1fde860.heic?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)

Put 200lbs of nitrogen back into the shock and we are good to go.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/06ee4003-9f17-4d54-b243-ef82d3ed328d/41d285c9-f99c-49e4-a000-d8fc38821463.heic?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/06ee4003-9f17-4d54-b243-ef82d3ed328d/41d285c9-f99c-49e4-a000-d8fc38821463.heic?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)

kabacj

12-11-2024, 06:07 AM

Although no other XTF builder that I know of has had issues with a loose set screw and the end cap backing out of their Fox shock, its probably a good idea to check that all the set screws are tight before installing the shocks .

Now that the shocks are sorted I figured it would be reasonable to set the corner weights. My problem is how heavy the truck is. My longacre scales have only been used to setup lightweight race cars , never a full size truck.

Longacre make a good product so in spite of the lack of any documentation on the rating of the scales or what would happen if I overloaded them, I decided to give it a try. At least the internet didn’t have anything about how some guy broke his scales putting a pre runner on them.

To limit the weight on the scales I jacked up both ends of the truck before lowering it on the scales.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/06ee4003-9f17-4d54-b243-ef82d3ed328d/71101322-cdb6-439f-af44-823606da7f71.heic?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/06ee4003-9f17-4d54-b243-ef82d3ed328d/71101322-cdb6-439f-af44-823606da7f71.heic?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)

Well seems like that worked. No errors or weird numbers. Looks like I have the front right and rear left stiff. Because I wanted to increase preload rather than decrease it, I added a few turns of preload in the drivers front and passenger rear.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/06ee4003-9f17-4d54-b243-ef82d3ed328d/143b2da6-6708-420f-bafa-4052a00d7175.heic?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/06ee4003-9f17-4d54-b243-ef82d3ed328d/143b2da6-6708-420f-bafa-4052a00d7175.heic?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)

WOW! That was easy! Just about as close as I am going to get it in one try!

I cant do much better than that with the cross balance. I didn’t bother putting myself in the truck to set the weights. I plan to go to the next level on the suspension too so this is just an intermediate step.

55.7% front to 44.3% rear bias is pretty good in a pickup truck. I had the truck loaded with two spare tires, no jack and about half a tank of gas. The numbers would be a little better with the jack mounted in the chase rack.

kabacj

12-13-2024, 06:26 AM

Just like you dont need a sports car with 700 hp, the XTF does not need an upgrade of the shock package that comes on the truck from factory five.

BUT of course there are some of us that want to push performance to see what this truck can do. Thats what makes this hobby fun.

Factory five have already included the mounting points for bypass shocks which are installed along side a set of normal coil over shocks. The whole point of this upgrade is to allow for more control of each segment of the shock travel.

Bypass shocks work in a similar way as adjustable shocks we are familiar with for cars but with additional adjustment along the travel of the shock. At the same time you also keep the adjustment of the coil over. It’s a lot of control.

The first thing you need to do is package the buy pass shock so it fits in the space available on the XTF.

Fox draw the bypass shock and send over a proposal.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/06ee4003-9f17-4d54-b243-ef82d3ed328d/609e8ce0-4645-45e4-96a4-d7cd634dd871.png?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/06ee4003-9f17-4d54-b243-ef82d3ed328d/609e8ce0-4645-45e4-96a4-d7cd634dd871.png?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)

We used their drawing and created a model.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/06ee4003-9f17-4d54-b243-ef82d3ed328d/220f4951-fa70-4534-bdd1-f5bdc1c0c2ac.png?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/06ee4003-9f17-4d54-b243-ef82d3ed328d/220f4951-fa70-4534-bdd1-f5bdc1c0c2ac.png?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)

When virtually installed we saw the bypass had interference issues in the areas indicated below. Both the bypass circuits and the piggy back reservior could not be in the red area and the piggy back reservoir could not be in the blue area.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/06ee4003-9f17-4d54-b243-ef82d3ed328d/70abd848-ee07-4b18-91d2-384466672cea.heic?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/06ee4003-9f17-4d54-b243-ef82d3ed328d/70abd848-ee07-4b18-91d2-384466672cea.heic?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)

Luckily the bypass tube configuration is very flexible and we settled on the proposal below.
https://hosting.photobucket.com/06ee4003-9f17-4d54-b243-ef82d3ed328d/adebfd36-e28a-47e4-81df-8df28cf2d18f.png?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/06ee4003-9f17-4d54-b243-ef82d3ed328d/adebfd36-e28a-47e4-81df-8df28cf2d18f.png?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds);)

kabacj

12-16-2024, 06:12 AM

With the rear bypass setup done, I needed to figure out how to fit a bypass shock in the front next to the standard spring and shock that come with the kit.

First we modeled the configuration FOX proposed.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/06ee4003-9f17-4d54-b243-ef82d3ed328d/cc029a1d-2c42-4f6d-b124-d271368d1311.heic?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/06ee4003-9f17-4d54-b243-ef82d3ed328d/cc029a1d-2c42-4f6d-b124-d271368d1311.heic?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)

The tricky part in the front is establishing clearance around the steering rack and tie rods. The tie rod ends swing up and down as the suspension moves through its travel. The tie rod ends also move forward and back as the front wheels travel from lock to lock.

Sure we could model all of the motions, but that would take a while and be error prone. It was easier taking a slice of the profile of the bypass shock and checking clearance on the truck directly.

A trip to the woodworking scrap box and I had a nice piece of red oak and some 3d printing I had upper and lower mounts that rotate like the upper and lower eye of the bypass shock as well as the profile of the bypass shock. Note we are using a remote reservoir in the front to keep the bypass body as small as possible.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/06ee4003-9f17-4d54-b243-ef82d3ed328d/75f7372e-db5d-4e44-b4cb-2b85ed31b706.heic?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/06ee4003-9f17-4d54-b243-ef82d3ed328d/75f7372e-db5d-4e44-b4cb-2b85ed31b706.heic?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)

I measured the length of the bypass shock body and moved the profile to that position then cycled the suspension and the steering lock to lock.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/06ee4003-9f17-4d54-b243-ef82d3ed328d/c5ae6f7d-94ed-4017-8391-f90f0d95c38a.heic?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/06ee4003-9f17-4d54-b243-ef82d3ed328d/c5ae6f7d-94ed-4017-8391-f90f0d95c38a.heic?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)

You can see from this view that the tie rods overlap the body of the bypass shock, but they never get close to the bypass body as the steering and suspension cycle through their motions.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/06ee4003-9f17-4d54-b243-ef82d3ed328d/ee18d027-247a-4275-ab30-2414c4eabfc1.heic?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/06ee4003-9f17-4d54-b243-ef82d3ed328d/ee18d027-247a-4275-ab30-2414c4eabfc1.heic?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)

kabacj

05-23-2025, 08:07 PM

Finally my custom shocks have arrived!!

https://hosting.photobucket.com/06ee4003-9f17-4d54-b243-ef82d3ed328d/5cad90ba-a889-44a1-91d6-a867e8055563.heic?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/06ee4003-9f17-4d54-b243-ef82d3ed328d/5cad90ba-a889-44a1-91d6-a867e8055563.heic?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)

Here they are all assembled and ready to install.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/06ee4003-9f17-4d54-b243-ef82d3ed328d/97f84352-1f7d-48fd-a22f-e3937850c9b0.heic?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/06ee4003-9f17-4d54-b243-ef82d3ed328d/97f84352-1f7d-48fd-a22f-e3937850c9b0.heic?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)

holy crap these things are giant. I hope they fit!!

https://hosting.photobucket.com/06ee4003-9f17-4d54-b243-ef82d3ed328d/d71a591e-6ef7-45f0-8c28-2f488e1cf437.heic?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/06ee4003-9f17-4d54-b243-ef82d3ed328d/d71a591e-6ef7-45f0-8c28-2f488e1cf437.heic?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)

Kempo

05-24-2025, 09:22 PM

Wow!!! That really is some next level stuff. Keep us posted on install and results. Looking forward to seeing those installed.

kabacj

09-18-2025, 07:20 AM

Finally I have the bypass setup installed. Like everything i made this job into a project that was much harder than it needed to be… but here goes.

Each damper has a remote reservoir and hose that I needed to package in the front and rear wheel well. Everything needs to be tucked into a spot that is clear of the wheel as it moves through its travel as well as clear the 37 inch tires as they pivot when turning.

My first solution on the SEMA build just used clamps and a simple printed carrier.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/06ee4003-9f17-4d54-b243-ef82d3ed328d/fac27a60-6d2f-4fc6-af87-f36086c79ce4.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/06ee4003-9f17-4d54-b243-ef82d3ed328d/fac27a60-6d2f-4fc6-af87-f36086c79ce4.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)

I wanted to eliminate the clamp and I needed a more complex carrier to really tuck the reservoir into the wheel well.

Starting with the front where it’s really tight.

Here is what I started with

https://hosting.photobucket.com/06ee4003-9f17-4d54-b243-ef82d3ed328d/0aed899a-7635-4be0-a51f-9878a38cba2d.jpeg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/06ee4003-9f17-4d54-b243-ef82d3ed328d/0aed899a-7635-4be0-a51f-9878a38cba2d.jpeg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)

I designed a mount that would hold the reservoir perpendicular to the ground and tightly into the nook in the frame.

Here it is printed out.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/06ee4003-9f17-4d54-b243-ef82d3ed328d/64322cda-5640-4f38-9a32-c7025f05b440.jpeg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/06ee4003-9f17-4d54-b243-ef82d3ed328d/64322cda-5640-4f38-9a32-c7025f05b440.jpeg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)

And installed.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/06ee4003-9f17-4d54-b243-ef82d3ed328d/999ba759-9360-4830-a332-46736adf0e00.jpeg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/06ee4003-9f17-4d54-b243-ef82d3ed328d/999ba759-9360-4830-a332-46736adf0e00.jpeg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)

The bypass shock also has a hose and reservoir here is the mount for that bit.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/06ee4003-9f17-4d54-b243-ef82d3ed328d/18606680-52f9-45f3-953c-aea35d1e8f29.jpeg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/06ee4003-9f17-4d54-b243-ef82d3ed328d/18606680-52f9-45f3-953c-aea35d1e8f29.jpeg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)

And here it is installed.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/06ee4003-9f17-4d54-b243-ef82d3ed328d/617cc19e-cb16-4cec-bcfd-7353b0e78038.jpeg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/06ee4003-9f17-4d54-b243-ef82d3ed328d/617cc19e-cb16-4cec-bcfd-7353b0e78038.jpeg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)

And we are done!

https://hosting.photobucket.com/06ee4003-9f17-4d54-b243-ef82d3ed328d/0249a36c-27e9-4e4a-a312-98098b3991ab.jpeg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/06ee4003-9f17-4d54-b243-ef82d3ed328d/0249a36c-27e9-4e4a-a312-98098b3991ab.jpeg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)

Only 3 more corners to go. Luckily the passenger side is just a mirror image of the parts I made so that should be smooth.

kabacj

09-20-2025, 04:36 AM

The next step was the rear bypass install. Lots more room back there so this was easier.

I made two reservoir holders and adjusted the rear most mounting holes to accommodate a 5/8th inch bolt.

here is the coil over reservoir holder its a pretty simple part.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/06ee4003-9f17-4d54-b243-ef82d3ed328d/a3f0bbfa-3ee2-41e3-8fe3-572b3ab03f2c.heic?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/06ee4003-9f17-4d54-b243-ef82d3ed328d/a3f0bbfa-3ee2-41e3-8fe3-572b3ab03f2c.heic?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)

the bypass reservoir holder is a pretty complex 3D print however. TPU over PLA organic supports. This setup allows me to print just about any shape I can imagine.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/06ee4003-9f17-4d54-b243-ef82d3ed328d/110d91b3-ba28-4802-b272-98bcd4a59b31.jpeg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/06ee4003-9f17-4d54-b243-ef82d3ed328d/110d91b3-ba28-4802-b272-98bcd4a59b31.jpeg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)

and here it is installed.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/06ee4003-9f17-4d54-b243-ef82d3ed328d/0a715e76-96a6-4396-bacb-ad797d91baab.heic?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/06ee4003-9f17-4d54-b243-ef82d3ed328d/0a715e76-96a6-4396-bacb-ad797d91baab.heic?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)

and we are ready to roll!

https://hosting.photobucket.com/06ee4003-9f17-4d54-b243-ef82d3ed328d/2fa9fdce-3342-4012-a6d6-b78813f79ab6.heic?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/06ee4003-9f17-4d54-b243-ef82d3ed328d/2fa9fdce-3342-4012-a6d6-b78813f79ab6.heic?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)

Driving impressions on the street are very surprising. I can sure tell there is more damping. The truck is very composed over those washboard bumps that normally can unsettle the rear on a pickup truck.

I can drive over those little islands in the parking lot as if they aren't there. There is really no way to test a setup like this on the road. I need to get out and test it off road at speed. That is he next thing on my list.

At least there is no downside of this setup on the street. It really makes the truck feel more like a high end sports car .