Manual Clutch Coyote switch

[Junbug]

I have a Mk 4 complete kit and a Gen3 coyote from Forte. Please let me know if the mock up below is correct for the coyote clutch switch. I'm not sure i have the right lever piece to activate that switch. It appears I have the switch lever for a hydraulic clutch. Everything is just mocked up, not bolted in yet.
Also, do I need to have the wilwood pedalbox clutch switch installed on the bottom side of the pedal box in addition to the coyote clutch switch?

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=185977&d=1687046348

[mmklaxer]

You only need the coyote switch on top. You can remove the other one.

That definitely looks like the hydraulic setup bracket. Might be a call to FFR. The manual should have a picture of the manual bracket - might just be an L you can fab

[michael everson]

You can use the wilwood lower switch instead of the one on top. Just cut the plug off and put spade terminals on the wires. the parts you are showing are for the Hydraulic clutch. While you are at it, get a genuine Ford clutch cable. The difference is incredible.
Mike

[Junbug]

So I ended up modifying the piece for the hydraulic clutch and making a lever that actuates they coyote clutch switch. Any recommendations for how much actuation of the switch is required? I've got the ability to move it fore and aft, and I believe the key is making sure the switch is pressed in when the clutch is at full extension. I'll be sure to leave it adjustable until I get the engine and clutch cable installed. And I do have a call with Forte this week to get a genuine Ford clutch cable. Thanks for the recommendation Mike!
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=186064&d=1687229732

[AC Bill]

I gather with that switch in place, you won't be be able to jump start it if for example you stalled the car but it is still rolling? . Likewise if you had a dead battery, and wanted to push start it, or roll down an incline? Or, will you still have ignition power with the switch engaged, but no power to the starter?

[Junbug]

I gather with that switch in place, you won't be be able to jump start it if for example you stalled the car but it is still rolling? . Likewise if you had a dead battery, and wanted to push start it, or roll down an incline? Or, will you still have ignition power with the switch engaged, but no power to the starter?

Bill, I’m not sure this switch will affect being able to jump or push start the vehicle. Regarding a rolling start, with a dead battery, I doubt any coyote could start as the computer would need power to communicate with both the ignition and the clutch safety switch in order to start. For a jump start, as long as the clutch pedal is pressed in, it should be able to start as it would appear that the battery is providing power.
Others with more expertise may be able to chime in.

[AC Bill]

Good points fuel pump wouldn't run either.

Showing my age..lol

[edwardb]

So I ended up modifying the piece for the hydraulic clutch and making a lever that actuates they coyote clutch switch. Any recommendations for how much actuation of the switch is required? I've got the ability to move it fore and aft, and I believe the key is making sure the switch is pressed in when the clutch is at full extension. I'll be sure to leave it adjustable until I get the engine and clutch cable installed. And I do have a call with Forte this week to get a genuine Ford clutch cable. Thanks for the recommendation Mike!


Bill, I’m not sure this switch will affect being able to jump or push start the vehicle. Regarding a rolling start, with a dead battery, I doubt any coyote could start as the computer would need power to communicate with both the ignition and the clutch safety switch in order to start. For a jump start, as long as the clutch pedal is pressed in, it should be able to start as it would appear that the battery is providing power.
Others with more expertise may be able to chime in.

Put a meter or continuity tester across the two leads on the switch and you can tell exactly where it opens and closes. It has a relatively wide range. Then you can adjust your bracketry as needed. I set mine to where the clutch needs to be basically against the bottom stop before it closes. That way it serves its purpose, e.g. to make sure the clutch is completely disengaged the the PCM won't allow the starter motor to run unless it is.

Nothing about the switch would change a jump start. You would still need to push the clutch down per normal. Of course you have to let the clutch out when doing a push start. No reason that shouldn't work either as long as the ignition is on. Starter motor isn't required. But agree if the battery is dead, no fuel pump, no PCM, etc. etc. Haven't done it. Not planning to...