Steps before riveting down the trunk area?

[Junbug]

Looking for recommendations and tips for things to make sure are complete before riveting down the trunk area? My checklist below but looking for things I might be missing. Plan to install trunk so I can install the rear cockpit wall then spray with lizardskin sound insulation. I only plan to do sound insulation throughout the cockpit and trunk. Ceramic heat insulation in the cockpit only. I'll be following the detailed lizardskin instructions from EdwardB, JohnK and mmklaxer's threads.
1. Diff fluid and friction modifier added.
2. Rear brake hard lines tightened/pressure tested.
3. Fuel tank, fuel pump, fuel level sender installed.
4. Drop trunk assembled.
5. Rear harnesses installed (brake lights, fuel level, fuel pump, trunk light)
6. Fuel lines & filter installed.
7. E-Brake lines installed.

[mmklaxer]

Install the trailer conversion kit for the rectangular tail lights - would be much easier with access

[egchewy79]

Make the fuel hangar access hole larger and make a new block off plate. I found that the factory cut out wouldn’t get me close to the unions at the end of the hangar

[JohnK]

If you think you may ever want/need a reverse light, now would be the time to add wiring for that. I ran a pigtail for a reverse light and installed a temporary light so I could pass the brake and lamp inspection, then just capped off the connector and tucked it up out of the way.

[Railroad]

Here is a tip, a fellow builder gave me,,, feed the back up light off the tag light circuit +. Run the negative from the light to the reverse switch on the trans, if applicable, and ground the other lead of that switch.
LED back up light draws very light load, trans switch can handle it.

[JohnK]

The only drawback with that approach is that the reverse light will only work when parking/headlights are on. If you're installing a reverse light for compliance purposes, it likely will not pass.

[Railroad]

The only drawback with that approach is that the reverse light will only work when parking/headlights are on. If you're installing a reverse light for compliance purposes, it likely will not pass.

Yes, we certainly need the backup light during the day time. Wonder if they also need the tag light during daylight. Understand this is not your position.
My inspector did not even check headlights.

[MB750]

Aside from everything already mentioned, you might wanna get a pneumatic rivet gun. My forearms are still sore and I did it a couple months ago!

Just kidding, but it's a lot of rivets.

[JohnK]

Wonder if they also need the tag light during daylight.

My inspector was a real stickler. He checked reverse lights, tag lights, headlights, turn signals, hazards, checked for the high beam indicator on the dash... you name it. I don't think I would have gotten away with a reverse light or tag lights that didn't work with headlights off. Others may be more lucky.

[Railroad]

Well you could wire your tag light hot with key on, or do as I did and wire the hot feed through the reverse switch and pick the ground up off the rear harness.
It was just a suggestion from a friend and I thought a neat idea.
I would not doubt some places require a backup light in reverse, period.

[JohnK]

Sorry if I came off as argumentative. It all comes down to what you want and why you're installing the reverse light. If you just want a reverse light, and you normally drive around with headlights on, then it's a great suggestion. Just pointing out that if you're only installing it to pass an inspection (like I did) then there may be better solutions.

[emac]

FWIW, I cant remember exactly, but I think I used the unriveted trunk floor panels as my template to cut the carpet.

[KippRacing]

Speaking of rivets, I haven't gotten my kit yet but what size clecos do you guys use? I assume 1/8".

[AC Bill]

Speaking of rivets, I haven't gotten my kit yet but what size clecos do you guys use? I assume 1/8".

You will need some for the 3/16" rivets as well.

[AC Bill]

Looking for recommendations and tips for things to make sure are complete before riveting down the trunk area? .

How about the access holes cut in the trunk floor, for the fuel pump and sending unit? Have you planned for them?

[Junbug]

How about the access holes cut in the trunk floor, for the fuel pump and sending unit? Have you planned for them?

Hi Bill, I have already prepared both those access holes. Thanks!

[JJK]

Not sure of where you are in the build, but I had a bad fuel line fitting that needed replaced. Leaked fuel while setting the EFI pressure before I started the engine up. Would have been more difficult to track down the problem if the panels were already set.

[AA-ron]

Looking for recommendations and tips for things to make sure are complete before riveting down the trunk area? My checklist below but looking for things I might be missing. Plan to install trunk so I can install the rear cockpit wall then spray with lizardskin sound insulation. I only plan to do sound insulation throughout the cockpit and trunk. Ceramic heat insulation in the cockpit only. I'll be following the detailed lizardskin instructions from EdwardB, JohnK and mmklaxer's threads.
1. Diff fluid and friction modifier added.
2. Rear brake hard lines tightened/pressure tested.
3. Fuel tank, fuel pump, fuel level sender installed.
4. Drop trunk assembled.
5. Rear harnesses installed (brake lights, fuel level, fuel pump, trunk light)
6. Fuel lines & filter installed.
7. E-Brake lines installed.

Only thing I'd add to that list is running the reverse light wire if you are opting to install one. I forgot to on mine, and had a hell of a time routing the wire after everything was buttoned up.

[Junbug]

Not sure of where you are in the build, but I had a bad fuel line fitting that needed replaced. Leaked fuel while setting the EFI pressure before I started the engine up. Would have been more difficult to track down the problem if the panels were already set.

JKK, thanks for that tip. I don't want to have the engine/trans in before I spray the lizardskin.... I may regret that later if a leak pops up, though i did pressure test all my fuel lines and will test my rear brake lines before I drop in the trunk.

[JohnK]

If you have all your tank, lines and regulator installed, you can cap off the final line leading from the regulator to the engine and then apply 12V to the fuel pump and pressure-test the entire fuel system (as well as set the pressure on the regulator) without having the engine in.

[runamuk]

**VERY IMPORTANT** mount and drill the holes for your roll bar. Once the sheetmetal is installed it will be almost impossible to drill these holes

[Railroad]

**VERY IMPORTANT** mount and drill the holes for your roll bar. Once the sheetmetal is installed it will be almost impossible to drill these holes

Also confirm the roll bar bolt holes allow access to the bolts and installation and removal after all the sheet metal is installed.

[BEAR-AvHistory]

Don't think it was listed but be sure to do the trunk floor before the rear cockpit wall. Will make installing the floor rivets a lot easier.