Angelina: Build Story of my 4-wheeled Motorcycle

[cc2Arider]

Hey Y'All,

I got into the garage on a weeknight for a change and got a few things done for my radiator mockup. I selected some low-profile 1/4-20 nutserts for the hinge mount to the top cross frame tube, located 4 evenly-spaced holes, installed, and then fastened with some SS button head bolts. I like it!
211790

Then I removed the assembly and bench-installed the fan and shroud...then put back on the car. It fits NICE! Breeze makes some quality products :cool:
211791

I was tempted to finish the job of the lower mount this weekend, but those roll bars were calling me to do the tough job...

Craig C

[gbranham]

That breeze shroud makes the fan so effective. My lower radiator hose actually stays cool to the touch at operating temp. It's crazy.

[cc2Arider]

Hey Y'All,

I was dreading this for a while, but decided it was time to tackle the rollbar drilling job:eek:

I emulated other Builder's who had mounted a simple, small, square section of plywood to my drill press base. It was a "hobby" piece from Lowes...Great idea! It was flat and true enough and had a little "give" so I didn't scratch the rollbar chrome. It was just large enough to support the rollbar, too... I used a combination of clamps and straight edges to hold down the rollbar, and my secret weapon was a tube or round stock "center finder" for use in the drillpress. I decided to keep the axis perpendicular to the hoop as it was clamped flat. There was a time when I had considered offseting the angle a little for the outer hoop tube, but decided against it because I couldn't clamp the rollbar effectively unless it was flat( more on that later) Here's the setup 211792

Success for both hoops (centered and true)! Next, I wanted to fasten the back tube to the hoop, so I used a cheapo Harbor Freight drillpress vise, and drilled away with the same technique as before. Then I REALLY wanted to tap in one continuous process all the way thru the tubing, but I didn't have the right tap and settled on tapping from both directions (top/bottom). Anyway 5/16" coarse thread and some SS button heads and this is the result :)
211793 211794
I'm not sure about the washers, but that Driver's side really had flaking chrome :mad: The Passenger-side rollbar chrome wasn't flaky -- maybe because it isn't ordered as often and FFR chooses another chrome vendor? Something to ponder...

Next, I had to use a normal 5/16" twist bit, several step-bits and a 90deg angle attachment...and lots of concentration later, I had round holes thru all the tubes and mounting bosses -- no "wallered" holes!! Woo-hoo :D The "outboard" hoop bosses and the back tube bosses were the most challenging -- just not enough room. Here's a couple of pictures of the back tube holes drilled and fastened 211795 211796

I'm glad this job is done and now I can get back to the radiator lower mount...something not as stressful!

Until next time,
Happy Building!

Craig C

[cc2Arider]

Hey Y'All,

I got some properly-sized stainless flat washers for my rollbar bolts, and as a result, the "Frankenstein" bolts don't look weird :p

I also discovered how easily the chrome flakes off: I used some Nevr-Dull polishing pads (hand-applied), and that caused the chrome to flake off near a welded joint. See pictures... 211969 211970

This makes me more confident that I took all precautions while drilling the holes. I'll look into getting a premium plating shop to address that...:rolleyes:

Craig C

[cc2Arider]

Hey Y'All,

I changed my mind about mounting the lower Breeze radiator mount until I decide what sort of shroud I want to use. I'm leaning towards the wrap-around style from our Preferred Vendor ...

So instead, I focused on getting the front wiring harness installed across the front 3/4" top cross tube... Here's the zip-tie mounts fastened to the tube with nut-serts 211972

I liked the idea of getting this part of the harness out-of-the-way, and as a result of this decision and using the more powerful flex-wave fan motor (which had shorter pig-tails), I needed to move the wiring along the harness so that it fit better. This meant removing the existing fan motor ground wire splice and moving it back about 6 inches. Here's a picture after moving the splice 211971

Then I used some silicone tape to seal the joints 211973 and here it is in the final position 211975

While I was at it, I decided some symmetry was in-order, so I spliced for the horn wiring to be duplicated on the Passenger side211974

Next post - part2...

Craig C

[cc2Arider]

Part2...making it look neat :cool:

I like the WireCare woven split loom for my Roadster project and that continued with the front harness...

Here's some pictures211976 211977 211978 211979 211980

I also use Tesa brand tape to keep the wires tidy prior to adding the split loom as well as for holding the sections of split loom together :)

That's it for now...I gotta finish my taxes next :rolleyes:

Until next time, Happy Building!

Craig C

[Sarcasticshrub]

Very clean wiring setup! Definitely a feel good moment when it comes together.

I needed to mock up the front wiring with substitute or actual items in place (radiator, aluminum, horn, lights, etc.) to keep from having another redo moment in the future.

[cc2Arider]

Thanks Sarcasticshrub!

I am crossing my fingers that my crude measurements left me enough wire for the final installations:eek:

Craig C

[cc2Arider]

Hey Y'All,

I mentioned a while back that I wanted to replicate John Ibele's center console design. This weekend I tried to make it happen:D

First up: CAD (Cardboard-Aided-Design) :p

212320 212321 212322

Fits pretty decent...next, I wanted to make it repeatable 212323 212324 212325

Next post: fitting the repeatable CAD template...

Craig C

[cc2Arider]

Hey Y'All,

This post: fitting the repeatable CAD (Cardboard-Aided-Design) Center Console template...
212326 Good! Repeatable fitment...

Next, I was curious how my Dashpanel layout would look 212327

I'm glad I did this because I just didn't like the off-centered grouping of the "Competition" gauge layout :confused:

So then (like some previous Builders), I just centered it, and I liked it much better. Then, just for kicks, I decided to arrange my "switches" so that it made a trapezoidal look -- kindof a homage to the original AC gauge layout 212328

I'm not yet "sold" on that, but I do like the symmetry :cool:

Next post: transferring to metal...

Craig C

[cc2Arider]

Hey Y'All,

In this post, I transfer my CAD (Cardboard-Aided-Design) to metal...

measurements laid-out and lines drawn 212329

cut out 212330

and bent 212331

I have to confess right here that my 1st bend was a little "off" but I kept at it anyway...this resulted in a non-optimal initial fitment:rolleyes:

A little massaging with seam flange pliers, light hammer and dolly work, and some gentle persuasion, I got it to fit like the template :)
212332 212333 212334

The verdict: I'd like to make some adjustments and try again since it will be a tight fit with upholstery leather on it -- I'd rather it be a little "loose" than "tight".

I hope this showed you that you can make your visualizations happen -- you just might need to do it over a couple of times ;)

Until next time, Happy Building!

Craig C

[cc2Arider]

Hey Y'All,

In the last post I wasn't sure I wanted to stick with my 1st attempt at a center console, and in this post ... I made another one :p

This time, I tried to pay attention to the clamping force on my simple bench brake (so that the bends didn't "walk away"), and I accounted for the thickness of my upholstery :rolleyes:

Here's the result (the leather in the pictures is just for mock-up) 212611 212612 212613

I also tried out a hydraulic press brake attachment and used a wooden clothes hangar dowel to form the rounded edges (turned out pretty good) :cool:

Next, (as I mentioned in previous posts) I liked John Ibele's center console design and wanted to emulate the 289 Cobra's radiator opening shape for the Console door.

The intention is there...but the proportions don't quite look right...212614

I think it needs more width and less height. What do you think? Opinions welcome!

Craig C

[cc2Arider]

Hey Y'All,

I'm pretty satisfied with my center console "concept", so while I "stewed" on the console door design, I thought I'd go back to some electrical harness design...

My Dash layout will be a modified "Competition" layout, but I'll have the Voltage, Fuel, and Clock gauges arranged above the Speedometer. I'll also locate my KeySwitch on the left-most part of the Dash Panel, and I'll include all of my rotary/pull switches along the bottom edge (Lights, Wipers, Heater). Then I'll add an OEM Cigarette lighter (for the 12v aux power), and a RAM mount for my GPS on the right side of the Speedometer, and I'll also add a horn circuit breaker switch (I'll explain that later) and a hazard flasher switch on the right side of the steering wheel...

With all that in mind, I needed to unsleeve and layout the dash harness to suit my layout better than it comes stock from FFR.

This is my initial plan and mockup. I just used some spare craft paper cut to size to help me with the visualization and to see if I needed to account for the wire lengths (as delivered)212615

It looks like the wiring lengths will work :D, although I'd like to re-do the dash light wiring...

That left me to figure out how to wire up my remote connection horn switch. I'd been thinking about this for a while since I think a Steering wheel mounted horn would look good, but since the shaft & hub have minimal room for wires to pass-thru, I just figured to go wireless. I got a WOLO branded remote switch a couple years ago, and while it works well, in the back of my mind I'm worried that any "stray" signal could set my horn off...so I decided to just install an SPST toggle switch on the Dash Panel as a circuit breaker for those times I don't need a horn (like when I'm not in it ;)) This will just be an extra measure so that I can feel secure my Angelina doesn't get "possessed" :p

Until next time, Happy Building!

Craig C

[cc2Arider]

Hey Y'All,

Hope you had a rewarding Holiday weekend:o

I had some time in the Garage and I've got progress to report :cool:

In my brief time building my Roadster, I've come to realize that some parts must be located before other parts can be...wiring is often last because ...well, it is flexible and accommodating:p

However, some electrical parts must be layed-out because they have be mounted to something, so this post is about the space between the firewall and dash panels.

For those who have chosen to include a heater/defroster box, this post may help you visualize your own layout. I thought about my own layout a lot. Here was my working copy of the layout plan 212826

I started on the Heater Box area because the heater coolant valve dictated somewhat where I located the switch on the Dashpanel. Here's my new bracket for the heater blower motor circuit breaker -- tucked out of the way 212827

Here's the new piano-style hinge for my underdash access panels :cool: This one is to the left of the steering column 212828

Then, since I needed a place to locate my Inertia Switch (out-of-the-way, yet still accessible if it "tripped"), I made a mirror image of the Passenger side firewall "extension" panel 212829 I think I can use this to mount the extreme left-side of the dash panel (just like can be done for the Passenger side) :cool:

Next post...part 2

Craig C

[cc2Arider]

Hey Y'All,

In this post, we continue with the layout between the firewall and dash panels...

Here is where I decided to put the headlight dimmer switch relay 212830

Then I located the Inertia Switch. Sharp observers will notice that I had to create yet another firewall "extension" panel since
the mirror-image copy did not leave enough mounting real-estate for the Inertia Switch. This whole assembly will be mounted with rivnuts so that I can get to the windshield post bolts :cool: 212831

Next, I added another hinge to the right of the steering column. This one will be for the remote horn module and hazard flasher relay mountings.212832

Then, I forgot about my Wiper switch relay. This was needed since I replaced the FFR-supplied toggle switch with a more period-correct rotary switch.
The relay essentially helps with the "Park" position. I tucked this onto the simple bracket I made for the heater motor circuit breaker. So here's the picture with that plus the aforementioned horn module and flasher relay 212833

Next post, we continue with the layout...

Craig C

[cc2Arider]

Hey Y'All,

In this post, we continue with the layout between the firewall and dash panels...

Here is an underside view of the new hinged access panel 212834

Next is the overall layout minus any heater or defroster ducting. I hope I planned for enough room! :rolleyes: 212835

Time to confirm the little space to the left of the steering column has enough room for the wires, switches, relays, and ducting.
First though, I need to create a prototype panel 212836. All the content fits...more-or-less. My plan to have a hinged panel here might not "make the cut" since the top-side of the duct vent looks like it will interfere with the KeySwitch when I swing the panel down. We'll have to trust the "vision" and accommodate later...

Anyway, here's an underneath view of that duct panel 212837

Next post we'll work the Passenger-side...until next time, Happy Building!

Craig C

[Highplainsdakota]

Looks like good progress! I like your organization. I went with the under dash panel as well. I make it out of several pieces of aluminum. I’m going with the Velcro idea others have posted using small angle aluminum as top supports and rivnuts on the under dash panels so I can use screws from the bottom of the dash up. I’m just starting my dash wiring so it’s good to see examples!

[cc2Arider]

Thanks Highplainsdakota :)

[cc2Arider]

Hey Y'All,

In this post, I work on the Passenger-side items that need to be mounted between the Firewall and the Dash panels...
First up: I made a simple bracket to mount my Edelbrock Pro-Flo4 ECM 213128

Apologies for the bad photography, but here's the ECM in position (looking forward view) 213129

Next, I mounted the ECM's power relay and fuse holder in suitable locations - taking advantage of available space, proximity to the ECM, wiring lengths, etc 213131

and here's the reason to sequence my efforts on the firewall so far: Thermal Pad template creation ... since it is easier to fit properly before installation rather than fight the gooey sticky layer :p 213133

Next post: fitting the thermal pad, reinstalling the heater box, and checking the fit of the equipment on the Passenger side between the Firewall and Dash panels...

Craig C

[cc2Arider]

Hey Y'All,

Continuing from the last post, where I created a template for the thermal pad -- Here's the thermal pad installed 213137

and then the Heater/Defroster Box and new ECM reinstalled 213138

Here's an overhead view of the ECM equipment located between the Firewall and Dash panels 213139

and lastly, here's a view of the Dash panel mocked into place with the hinged under dash access panels temporarily clamped into place. All it takes is some final trimming, simple fastener work, and "Bob's your Uncle!" ;) 213140

Until next time, Happy Building!

Craig C

[Mike.Bray]

Don't you love the simplicity of the ProFlo? Edelbrock has done such a great job with that system.

[Highplainsdakota]

Wow, that looks great. Since Mike Forte's building my engine right now I'm going with the Pro Flo 4 as well. Nice to know it will be an easy part! FYI I just posted in my thread about a weatherpack connector on the RF harness being pinned wrong. It's a quick check to make sure the same colored wires are lining up in the connectors! ie427 also mentioned he found one that had similar color light green wires pinned wrong. Good to find those mistakes now.

[cc2Arider]

Don't you love the simplicity of the ProFlo? Edelbrock has done such a great job with that system.

Hi Mike,
I love it so far, but I'm a little worried if the Wifi link will "penetrate" the dash panel when I need to set it up and start the tuning/monitoring. I guess I'll find out...:p

I recall you had a "stack" system...did that require a different ECM and harness set up?

Craig C

[cc2Arider]

Thanks Highplainsdakota!

Do you recall which wire pair was pinned wrongly on the RF harness? I haven't checked the whole harness yet :rolleyes:

Craig C

[Mike.Bray]

Hi Mike,
I love it so far, but I'm a little worried if the Wifi link will "penetrate" the dash panel when I need to set it up and start the tuning/monitoring. I guess I'll find out...:p

I recall you had a "stack" system...did that require a different ECM and harness set up?

Craig C

The ProFlo should be a Bluetooth link so I'm sure you'll be fine.

For my stacks I used a Fast Sportsman ECU and a Holley dual sync distributor so I have timing control. I had to do some minor modifications to the universal harness but that was all. I have a compete Holley Terminator system that I was planning on installing so I would have sequential port injection but the Cobra has been running so well with the Sportsman now I'm thinking of installing the Terminator on my recently acquired 68 Camaro.

[cc2Arider]

Thanks for the confirmation about the Bluetooth, Mike :D

Craig C

[Highplainsdakota]

Thanks Highplainsdakota!

Do you recall which wire pair was pinned wrongly on the RF harness? I haven't checked the whole harness yet :rolleyes:

Craig C

It was the front turn signal wires. A flat 12 pin connector. 6 on bottom were correct and 6 on top were backwards. Still trying to figure out how to unpin them!

Check out the picture

213223

[Nigel Allen]

It was the front turn signal wires. A flat 12 pin collector. 6 on bottom were right and 6 on top were backwards. Still trying to figure out how to unpin them!

Check out the picture

213223

If you get the unpinning tool, the process is simple and painless. These connectors are a sweet design.

[cc2Arider]

Thanks Highplainsdakota & Nigel :)

I'll check this evening...


Craig C

[Highplainsdakota]

I have a small round tube "depinning tool" but these seem to be blade types. I have a set coming from amazon to try. Do you know which brand or type of connectors these are from the RF harness? There seems to be a wide blade and narrow blade tool most commonly used, but there are also dozens others...

[Jeff Kleiner]

There have been a number of those miswires on that main to dash harness connector. All three of us with Mk5 Beta cars had it and there appears to have been quite a few others that were also produced in the 2024 timeframe.

Here's what mine looked like before I corrected it:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=211370&d=1741711762

I discovered a miswire in a Ron Francis harness while building a roadster for a customer a few years ago and since then I've made it a practice to always lay the harness out and double check that the wires match on both sides of all the plugs before installing anything.

Jeff

[Infinitybox]

enjoy

[Mike.Bray]

Sounds like RF needs to stop hiring color blind people to assemble their harnesses :rolleyes:

[Jeff Kleiner]

Sounds like RF needs to stop hiring color blind people to assemble their harnesses :rolleyes:

______________https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=210191&d=1738854751_________________
MEET OUR EMPLOYEE OF THE MONTH

[PMD24]

If you call Ron Francis and send a photo, they will send another front harness and a return label for the old one

[cc2Arider]

I'll have to admit to not checking the wiring for correctness as thoroughly as I checked other things -- Thanks for the background and tips everyone :)

Craig C

[cc2Arider]

There have been a number of those miswires on that main to dash harness connector. All three of us with Mk5 Beta cars had it and there appears to have been quite a few others that were also produced in the 2024 timeframe.

Here's what mine looked like before I corrected it:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=211370&d=1741711762

I discovered a miswire in a Ron Francis harness while building a roadster for a customer a few years ago and since then I've made it a practice to always lay the harness out and double check that the wires match on both sides of all the plugs before installing anything.

Jeff

Hi Jeff,

If we trust the color codes are correct, then it looks like both connectors were assembled from the same perspective instead of trying to "mirror" image them. Is that what you observed? (edit): it looks like the picture from Highplainsdakota -->I understand now!

Craig C

[cc2Arider]

Hey Y'All,

I'm still thinking about where to place my fuel pressure regulator and main power circuit breaker on the firewall. I posted in the Roadster General Discussions, but here's a summary in pictures:

Option1 213358 and Option2 213359

I had been thinking of Option1 before I started to wrestle with the decision. Now, I'm leaning towards Option2...

So, to help me "relax" on the decision, I decided to just start making my "lower firewall" panel, since I'll have to mount things to it no matter what decision I make :p

I had also been thinking about this for a while. I wanted a little "bling" and a polished surface reflects the radiant heat better, so here's my Polished Stainless Steel "lower firewall" panel mocked into place 213360

It has a protective film on it for now. Once again, I took advantage of CAD (Cardboard-Aided Design), and it fits really well. My ultimate plan (even if a bit ambitious) is to continue the polished heat shield panels down the sides of the footbox panels. I'd like to use small button-head fasteners on 1/4" standoffs.

Until next time, Happy Building!

Craig C

[cc2Arider]

Hey Y'All,

I'm continuing to put the puzzle together for the wire harness and other vehicle systems at the firewall "area"...

This post is about locating my rear harness and the clutch hydraulic line onto the top of the trans tunnel near the "A" panel.

Here's the space that I had to figure out, looking up from underneath the transmission tunnel top panel 213662

And here's a few pictures from the top-side 213663 213664

And here's why I located them there -- I'll hide them inside my center console :cool:213665

Lastly, I decided to locate my fuel pressure regulator in "the usual location". That meant I could finish the mock-up installation of my "lower" firewall panel and I mounted a couple of 150A circuit breakers to it. One is for the main harness power and the other is for an alternator internal short to ground. Here's a picture 213666

This coming week, I'll be crimping power lugs to 6ga power cables and generally start to tidy up the harness routing and presentation behind the firewall...

Until next time, Happy Building!

Craig C

[cc2Arider]

Hey Y'All,

In the last post, I said that I'd be working on wiring, but got sidetracked with outside yard duties :( and got distracted with a fun mini-project that I've been thinking on...

I had wanted to make some simple additional panels in the engine bay to serve as a heat shield since one of my fellow Cobra buddies showed me what he did on his build a couple of years ago :)

Here is a cardboard template of the Driver's side 214039 Since the complex planes and angles have already been "set" by FFR, I simply copied it, which meant separating the single cardboard template into two panels.

Here's the mock-up on the car with some 1/4" spacers behind (serving as stand-offs): 214040 214041

If I don't get sidetracked with more outside chores this coming week, I'd like to cut/bend these new panels for a test fit and show you the results :cool:

Until then, Happy Building!

Craig C

[cc2Arider]

Hey Y'All,

I hope you had a reflective Memorial Day weekend :)

It was nice here and I managed to work in the garage on my Heat shields...

Update since my last posting: I got some sturdier poster/craft board from my local Hobby Lobby to test my panel bending strategy: angles, sequence, etc.

Here's my "production-intent" result on the poster board 214338 It was challenging even though I simply copied the FFR panel layout :p

Next, here's the result in metal mocked into place with copious tape 214339

The front heat shield panel was simpler, so I used "plain" craft paper for its template 214340

It took me a while to figure out my fastening strategy...to re-use my existing rivet locations or drill for new ones...choices, choices...

Initially, I just used lots of tape :p 214341 214342

It's fitting pretty well so far. 214343 I chose to locate the rear flange of the inner panel to the firewall heat shield panel and then I located the front panel to the front footbox panel with nut-serts and 1/4" spacers. I'm still working on the edge flange where the two heat shield panels meet...but that'll have to wait for next weekend. My intention is to have a 1/4" air gap all around...

Until then, Happy Building!

Craig C

[danmas]

This looks great and very precise. You have enviable skills. I’m sort of a “get a bigger” hammer kind of guy but I really like looking at work that people with finesse can do…. Well done!

[cc2Arider]

Very Kind words Dan!!

I appreciate it :)

In all honesty, I'm taking my time...but I do have a goal to get the engine installed and running this Summer :rolleyes:

Craig C

[cc2Arider]

Hey Y'All,

I thought long enough about where/how to mount my Driver's side heat shield panels to the existing engine bay structures, and in the end, I simply drilled extra carefully measured holes to the Driver's "bulkhead" frame structure. Then I "stitched" the side and front heat shield panels together with screws and low-profile riv-nuts 2 & 1/8" apart. This allowed me to fasten both side panels to the front panel and have room to get a small Allen wrench in there when the headers are installed. There is still finishing work to do, such as deciding on 1/8" SS rivets or small screws to fasten the side panels together. Then I'll need to "final" trim the outer edges during body fitment. Maybe I'll include a small strip of bulb-seal...decisions, decisions ;)

Here's a picture 214496

Then feeling pretty "chuffed" about my accomplishment, I was brought back to reality by contemplating whether to keep the Passenger-side "simple" or going the extra effort to address some minor issues I wanted to address. First, I like things as symmetrical as possible, and having lots more room on the Passenger side for heat shields kinda irritated me :rolleyes: Then there's the gap around the Passenger side "outrigger" frame tube that needs to sealed off near the outside corner. Lastly, the Passenger side foot box gets its strength from the "pinch" seam at the top 3/4" diagonal frame tube, yet no other support is on the front side. So, I decided to prototype a more complicated front heat shield panel by designing folds for strength, and this would also address my irritation issues above... Here's my initial concept 214497

Then I cut and bent the simple inner side heat shield panel and mocked into place 214498

This coming week, I'm gonna think and plan out my bending strategy (since I don't have a "box" brake), and if I can't make a quality mock-up part, I'll just go back to a "simple" design instead :p

Until next post, Happy Building!

Craig C

[cc2Arider]

Hey Y'All,

I decided to "go for it" and design my Passenger-side heat shield the way I initially wanted to. The design calls for fastening the front panel into the "outrigger" tube at the bottom, and then fastening the top front to a simple "L" bracket (to account for the front distance offset).

Here's the start: repurposing the existing rivets for the footbox panels for eventual riv-nuts 214814

Then making a front panel template 214815

Then the dilemma: use the fastening locations as the dimensional reference or bend the panels right away for the fitment (as reference). I chose to locate all measurements from the fastener location on the "outrigger" tube because the margin for error was greater there (since I would be drilling into the curved part of the tube) Here's the result with the front panel clecoed into place 214816

Feeling pretty good about how I drilled into the tube, then the tapping for fasteners began 214817

Next locating the top mounting bracket so that the angle matches the Driver's side, and clecoing into place 214818

Next Post continues...

[cc2Arider]

Part2 - The design and mock-up of the Passenger-side heat shields (con't)...

Satisfied with the top mounting bracket location, I installed riv-nuts and fastened into place. Here's a picture confirming the vertical alignment of the front heat shield panel 214819

Then the front and inner side panels are measured at the edge, trimmed, and test fit 214820

Then the next challenge: getting that front panel bent properly. Here's the result 214821 not crisp bends :(

I was worried about this and thought I provided enough margin for the radiused bends...but not enough. I really want the flanges to be on the inside (not the outside) of the joint.

To compound my irritation, I checked the trimmed scraps and the front heat shield panel is not actually "mirror" finish like the others. I'll be calling McMaster-Carr in the morning...

Anyway, to try to leave on a high-note, here's a front picture with the whole setup in place 214822

Until next time, Happy Building!

Craig C

[cc2Arider]

Hey Y'All,

I spent most of the weekend finishing the trimming, fitting, and detail work on my engine bay heat shields. I still need to powder-coat my "L" bracket a satin black and maybe perform some final trimming when the body goes on, but I'm ready to move onto other engine bay prep :D


Here's the results of my efforts 215113 215114 215115 215116

One thing that might need more investigation is how to keep them clean :rolleyes: I used some low-odor mineral spirits on a shop towel to take off the smudges and silicone sealer residue (from the captive nut-sert installation). Seemed to work out OK...I hope I have as much success when the engine and headers are in there :p

Until next time, Happy Building!

Craig C

[cc2Arider]

Hey Y'All,

Not much to report on this week since I had to clean up the yard from the last storm damage ... and I picked a hot and humid weekend to do it (as some of you know who attended the London Cobra show) :p

So... since I don't have air-conditioning in the garage (maybe another Winter project), I kept my pace manageable...

I started another small project : stick-on heat shielding for the lower areas of the engine bay. Here's the templates in place 215391 then the stick-on heat shields in place 215392 The top edge will be hidden by my polished bolt-on panels :cool:

Here's where the stressful work-week kept me from thinking ahead: I ran out of seam tape :mad: so... off to another small engine bay project: installing the steering rack fail-safe restraining strap 215393 I had been wanting to powder-coat it, but just decided to give it a brushed appearance instead...

With that done, I also removed the previously-installed steering rack travel limiters, since I now have the "Fat tire" F-panels and they're not needed :cool:

I double-checked the steering travel afterwards, and no problem!!

With this done, I could next install my Breeze Battery tray. I used some rubberized gasket maker between the frame tubes and the tray and in the tapped screw holes just in case I might get any battery "drippings" in there during normal use :p Here's a picture 215394

With that installed, I still haven't decided where to route my primary battery cables, so I took the short ground cable from the Breeze kit and mocked-up a ground strap for my alternator. My Alternator was pre-finished gloss black by Forte' as a part of his front-drive system, and the case itself was not grounded thru the paint, so I simply ground some of the paint off and then decided to use a longer length bottom alternator mounting bolt (M8x1.25) to fasten the ground strap on the back side (hidden). Here's what it looked like 215395 The length is perfect, but since the cable size is a 4ga, I may change it to a 6Ga...we'll see :D

That's all for this week...until next time...Happy Building!

Craig C

[cc2Arider]

Hey Y'All,

Believe it or not amidst the pressures of work lately and the hot/sticky weather here, I managed to get a few things done in the garage: I finished taping the edges of my engine bay stick-on heat shields with seam tape. Then I made a new alternator ground strap in 6Ga with crimped/soldered barrel lugs. Then I focused on the primary battery cable routing...

This part was a little agonizing for me until I had an epiphany to make a cable separator/mounting bracket:cool: I also figured out a little of my "OCD"... I like making "intentional" decisions instead of having circumstances make the decisions for me.

Criteria: organized layout, consider potential failures ahead of time, make use of existing materials.

So, I made a battery cable mounting bracket out of simple Al 90deg angle stock. I'd mount it along the inside of the Passenger main 4" frame tube, and this would double as a cable separator. The primary starter cables would also have a straight shot from the battery to the starter (well as short as feasible :p ).

Here's the initial fitment after drilling and tapping for the screws into the frame 215681 The ground cable would lie (lay?) on top while the positive cable would be fastened underneath.

With my overall plan in place, I decided to route a chassis ground direct from the battery terminal with a short length of 6Ga to a suitable location on the chassis. I chose the rectangular frame upright for the front suspension. Here's a picture 215682

I planned to jointly solder both the starter ground cable along with the chassis ground cable to the post lug. I chose a 90deg from McMaster-Carr. Here's a picture of that 215683

The place where the cables rested on the front 4" frame tube looked like they could benefit from having proper zip-tie mounts ... so I added some there.215685 Note that I chose plastic for the positive and metal for the ground. Not that it is likely, but just in case a flying fan belt crushes the cable insulation, it at least won't short to ground initially. This was my strategy for the full length of the primary battery cables. If you're wondering why I chose to route the ground cable on top and the positive cable nearer to the road surface, I believe I'd be far more likely to accidentally drop something onto the cable with the hood up by accident rather than having road debris kicked up and damage the cable :rolleyes:...

Here's a final mock-up picture 215684 I'll have it powder-coated satin black, like the rest of the chassis and brackets.

Until next time, Happy Building!

Craig C

[JMD]

I love the heat shield. I was originally going to do something like that for my build, but once I got to that point I didn't want to spend the time fabricating it, so...I just insulated the footbox in and out and will see how that does. A lot of builders don't ever seem to have a heat problem so I kept it simple.

I didn't see what engine you're planning to run, but if I recall correctly the passenger side header sits kind of close to the footbox. Not as close as the driver side, but you put quite a large gap there between the shield and footbox. I assume you've measured to see how much space you have to work with? (Pardon me if that's already been stated, I didn't read the entire build thread.)

Love the build so far. Planning out and fabricating the electrical system was actually one of the most fun parts of the build for me. I love having wires run precisely and neatly throughout the engine bay.

[danmas]

Damn. The routing of your ground cable makes so much sense. I’m afraid I am going to have to swipe your idea and reroute mine tomorrow. Well done.The damn is tongue in cheek as I wish I had though of that….

[cc2Arider]

Thanks Dan! We'll see in a few weeks (hopefully) if my strategy was sound when I finish the engine bay and drop the engine in. I tried to measure everything on the engine while still on the shipping pallet by taking the engine mounts as reference points.

Craig C

[cc2Arider]

Thanks JMD! Uh-oh...I took some pictures of the mocked-up headers last year when I temporarily installed the engine. I hope the perspective from the picture is still good...we'll see soon enough :)

Craig C

[cc2Arider]

Hey Y'All,

I hope everyone had an energizing Independence-Day weekend! :D

I got some miscellaneous brackets back from the Powder Coater a few days ago and they look great! The formula is satin black followed by a satin clear. This is a good match for the chassis black on my Mk VI :cool:

Here's the battery cable and heat shield brackets 215936 I'll install these after wrangling the engine into place...

Here's the Edelbrock ECU bracket 215937 This meant I could "final" install the heater box and wiper motor assemblies...

and here's the throttle rod brackets 215938

Next post: thermal pad installation into the footboxes :rolleyes:

Craig C

[cc2Arider]

Hey Y'All,

Tedious, but necessary post about my progress installing the thermal padding into the footboxes...this is the Passenger side 215939

Per my previous guidance, I used a different stick-on thermal barrier for overhead installations. This stuff is backed by fiberglass weave instead of a thicker poly layer...which is supposed to be lighter weight. Here's the top detail 215940

and lastly, here's the little extra piece I installed to help cover-up the large installation hole on the front panel 215941

I still plan to add Silicone to the outside panel joints after I finish taping the seams...

Next post: Driver's side footbox ThermoTec installation...

Craig C

[cc2Arider]

Hey Y'All,

As promised, here's the Driver's side ThermoTec installation...

I couldn't figure out how to get the footbox floor pad in there without big-time wrinkles...and I ruined my first attempt, so here was my solution to the almost perfect rectangle shape of the template 215942 simply make the pieces more manageable :) Here's a few pictures of the outer piece that fits under the outrigger frame tube 215943215944

The key was to think thru how the pieces would want to "walk" when holding in place and peeling off the backing :)

Then here's the "main" piece installed 215945 215946

Until next time, Happy Building!

Craig C

[gbranham]

Looking good. I'd suggest a bit of rubber edging on this aluminum, where your positive cable rests against it. Over time, vibration might make that aluminum eat through your cable insulation.

216007

[cc2Arider]

Thanks Greg!

I plan to sleeve the whole thing with an additional layer of Silicone-covered fiberglass-impregnated cover. Unfortunately, it is not "red" red...it seems to be an "orange" red...probably developed for EV vehicles :(

I've got "black" for the negative cable :)

Craig C

[cc2Arider]

Hey Y'All,

Ever since I chose an Edelbrock Pro-Flo4 system (with a Vic Jr height intake manifold), and then subsequently a set of solid lowering engine mounts for top-side hood clearance, I knew that I'd need to trim the Quick-Time flanged steel bell housing on the bottom because it stuck down below the chassis "scrub-line"... and it was a job I was dreading -- I'd either have to demonstrate some skills ("...just git yer cut-off wheel and angle grinder on that...") or start taking things apart...

I chose the latter approach. First, remove the transmission from the Bell Housing, then remove the Bell Housing from the engine block. Here's a picture of the cut I needed to make 216318

Here's my improvised tool fixture for my table-top band-saw 216319

And after careful cutting, here's the result from the band-saw 216320

Then after some quality time with a big-honkin' file, here's the result 216321

Next post: part 2

Craig C

[cc2Arider]

Hey Y'All,

So after filing the cut edge flat with a large file, here's the result 216323

Next, I'd have to cut the Backing Plate...which meant removing the clutch pressure plate, clutch, and ultimately, the flywheel :rolleyes:

On the bright side of things, I'd get to have a look at these parts :cool:

Here's the disassembled "mess" ready to trim up the Backing Plate (notice the scribed line from the finished Bell Housing as a guide) 216324

Rinse and repeat on the Backing Plate as I had done on the Bell Housing. Then scuff the cut edges, paint, and clear coat. Here's the result 216325

The flywheel bolts had some threadlocker on them and the holes needed to be cleaned out, too...so I just decided to get some ARP flywheel bolts to replace the ones I just removed :p They're 7/16-20 x 0.950" and when they get delivered on Tuesday, I'll put the whole thing back together...

Next post: fun making fuel hoses with AN fittings :)

Craig C

[cc2Arider]

Hey Y'All,

I decided to keep banging out the small projects to keep on pace this weekend...I'm sure my neighbors just LUV my tall grass that I've neglected ;)

This mini project is about making the customized fuel hoses with AN fittings. Once you get a "system" figured out, it's pretty easy and relaxing :) I used straight and 60 deg fittings throughout...

I wanted to design a recirculating system for my Pro-Flo4 instead of the "dead head" system which came stock. I did this for 3 reasons: 1) better opportunity to filter out any debris in the system before it got to the sensitive injectors, 2) heat management of the fuel. This highly debatable, though. I think the type of driving I'll be primarily doing, this is a good option... and 3) I just didn't like the routing of the feed line as came stock.

So...here's the front of the engine showing my new hose which connects both rails 216333 216334 I'm happy that I "threaded the needle" with the heater hose and distributor base...

Then, I had to relocate the pressure sensor from the front right rail position, to the rear right rail position. Then I mocked-up some 60 deg fittings to check the "look". I like how it is more symmetrical now :) 216335 216336

Lastly, I wanted to get the engine bay "ready", so here's the hoses at the pressure regulator 216337 216338

Until next time, Happy Building!

Craig C

[cc2Arider]

Hey Y'All,

In this post, I'm doing odd jobs to get the Engine Bay closer to being ready for the engine install... :cool:

First up: Finally adding Silicone Sealant to the bottom edges of the inner footbox panels (along the main frame rails)

Driver's side 216571 and Passenger side 216572

Next, getting the Bell Housing back onto the engine block...pivot arm looks OK 216573 and a confirmation that my efforts to trim the bottom edge of the bell housing and backing plate looks OK 216574

Lastly, installing the transmission back onto the Bell Housing 216575 and aligning the Forte' clutch slave cylinder rod onto the pivot arm 216576

It feels good to have the Powertrain back together and ready to drop in! :cool:

Until next post...Happy Building!

Craig C

[cc2Arider]

Hey Y'All,

This post documents what I did to adapt the stock RF harness to the fuel pump circuit on the Edelbrock Pro-Flo4 system. It is generally described in the Build Manual and there are some instructions in the Pro-Flo4 Installation Manual.

But first, I needed to solidly connect the harness ground to a suitable location. I chose the bolt location for the outer mounting bracket that I made for the fuse panel. Here's the picture 216579

Next, the ignition supply for the fuel pump relay coil needs to be snipped or otherwise disconnected from the rest of the ignition supply wiring. The Pro-Flo4 figures out when to energize the fuel pump instead of simply via the ignition switch. There is a long harness provided by the Pro-Flo4 system for this purpose. Even though it is long and seems like the wiring is thick enough, the driver circuits inside the ECM can't handle high-current-draw fuel pumps, so this whole harness simply powers the fuel pump relay coil. You'd simply route it along the 2"x2" firewall frame tube towards the fuse panel. Here's where I added a Weatherpack to the snipped coil wire 216580 216581

Here's a picture of the snipped coil energizing wire at the back of the fuse panel 216582

Next, if you want to continue to use the "dreaded" Inertia Switch, you'll have to isolate the switch wire labelled "ground" from the grounded wires in the RF harness. The circuit instead will be completed by connecting this "ground" wire back to the Pro-Flo4 fuel pump wiring harness (tan wire) 216583

This gives you a perspective of the location of the RF ground wire that was dedicated to the Inertia Switch. I simply cut it out and re-taped over the exposed soldered joint 216584

Next post: more harness modifications :)

Craig C

[cc2Arider]

Hey Y'All,

In this post, I do more work on the RF wiring harness...

First up, I tidied-up the back-side of the fuse panel with some split-loom and internal-use loom tape 216586

Then I managed to squeeze a grommet onto both front harnesses. I'm not sure how I did it without tearing the rubber. Those are WIDE connectors :D This will be used to support the front harness as it passes thru my Driver's side "extension" panel 216587

Then, I isolated the horn relay coil wire like I had done for the fuel pump relay coil wire 216588 and connected it instead to my remote-activated horn module driver circuit 216589

Next, I routed the RF wiring for the Ignition power, Thermo-Switch, and the Tachometer feed across to my Pro-Flo4 setup. Here's the pig-tails provided by the Pro-Flo4 for the Fan Relay coil driver, and Tachometer output. 216590 The Ignition feed goes to the pink and black wire for the Pro-Flo4 (not shown in the picture). Here's a couple of pictures of the loom nearly finished for the Pro-Flo4 "dash" harness. 216591 216592The other part goes out to the engine bay for main battery power, Injector, coil, and sensor hookups, and for the O2 sensor.

Until next time, Happy Building!

Craig C

[Jeff Kleiner]

Craig,
Question and observation.
Question: Why the comment "dreaded" in regards to the inertia switch?

Observation: That bunch-o-wire you have passing through the area that you refer to as the driver's side firewall extension looks like it is going to make life really difficult when you attempt to install windshield fasteners.

Jeff

[cc2Arider]

Hi Jeff,

Thanks for the feedback! Your guidance is always appreciated :)

My commentary about the Inertia Switch is only related to the complaints I've read about in this forum previously. I recall mostly the complaints were about how easy it is to "trip" it. I'm guessing that your experience tells me otherwise... Perhaps making sure the switch is properly oriented is helpful...

Since I'm processing thru the ECM, and it controls the pump activation only briefly when the engine speed is zero, I viewed this as an optional measure to insure that a post collision doesn't keep the pump running when it is otherwise directly connected to the ignition source. I'm choosing to keep it in place anyway...


About the limited space on the Driver's side...I completely agree! Thanks for the reminder :) In my zeal to make a "complete" car, I can lose track of the practicality of the build...I'm hoping that I can figure out how to install that panel after I install the body and windshield post. I've tried to align the connectors so that I can "tuck" the forward side into the top of the footbox, while pulling the rearward side out into the open space when they are disconnected. I'm hoping this will create enough room to work. I'm not sure how much the added bulb seal on the top of the panel will make it a headache for me to align the small screw holes, nor am I sure that the ball-end allen wrenches have enough angle on them to tighten once everything is in the way.

Thanks for posting your observations! I'd like to show you in-person someday soon :)

Craig C

[Jeff Kleiner]

My commentary about the Inertia Switch is only related to the complaints I've read about in this forum previously. I recall mostly the complaints were about how easy it is to "trip" it. I'm guessing that your experience tells me otherwise... Perhaps making sure the switch is properly oriented is helpful...

Since I'm processing thru the ECM, and it controls the pump activation only briefly when the engine speed is zero, I viewed this as an optional measure to insure that a post collision doesn't keep the pump running when it is otherwise directly connected to the ignition source. I'm choosing to keep it in place anyway...




Craig,
My experience with the inertia switch is that when properly oriented and secured (red button up and fastened to a solid, steel frame member) they do not easily trip. For example, on my old Mk3 I reset it once for first start after testing it's function by giving the chassis a good whack with a dead blow hammer and when I sold the car17 years and 30K miles later it had not been touched again. Haven't had problems with them on any of the cars that I've built that incorporated them either. Not sure where you get the idea that the inertia switch only comes into play "briefly when the engine speed is zero". When wired conventionally the inertia switch is in the circuit and providing ground for the pump relay any time the ignition is on. Maybe you have it set up differently?

Jeff

[cc2Arider]

Hi Jeff,

That's good confirmation about the Inertia switch! I suspect many Builder's can easily trip it when it is not securely mounted. I know I'm able to hit it with the palm of my hand to confirm it is working. It is reassuring to know that once it is mounted properly, there is little concern about its function...

On the other thing, I meant to convey that the signal to activate the fuel pump only activates thru the ECM briefly...no relation to the function of the Inertia Switch when wired outside of the ECM control. I've connected mine in series anyway :)

Thanks for the feedback!

Craig C

[cc2Arider]

Hey Y'All,

I just had time for a small project this weekend, but you may find it helpful for your builds...

Instead of fitting the FFR-provided Passenger-side firewall wiring loom plate (P/N: 12273), I decided to try to make my own grommet :cool:

Here's the Ron Francis part number 216869 then I marked my intentions on it 216870

Here is the result after drilling the holes 216871 I tried to use a step bit at first, then chose a Forstner bit (that I had on-hand) for the larger hole to clean up the edge. I used a punch to clean up the smaller hole edges.

Then this is the result after simply splitting it down the middle with a utility knife 216872

Then it installed easily (at least without the body mounted :rolleyes: ) and here is the result of mock-up 216873 216874

For final installation, I'll apply silicone (or maybe weatherstrip adhesive) to the lengthwise joint...

Finally, here's a view of the newly loomed heater and wiper motor wiring for a tidy look 216875

Until next time, Happy Building!

Craig C

[cc2Arider]

Hey Y'All,

We finally got some nice weather here and I had to split time between fun garage projects and catching up on outside chores :rolleyes:, but it was a great Weekend that ended too soon...

First up: making 6Ga cables for my circuit breaker panel 217171

Next, I chose the ECM power wire harness routing along the frame rails, and then drilled, installed nut-serts, and temporarily mocked into place. I still need to get some more of my favorite zip-tie mounts from McMaster-Carr (SSTM4SP), and add my favorite woven split-tube loom for the final installation ... 217172 217173 217174 It was nice to see that the stock Pro-Flo4 harness was the perfect length for my routing :cool:

And, I started another mini-project. Here is where I cut my trans tunnel top panel to separate a piece for easy removal (for maintenance and the like) 217175

I plan to coordinate the mounting of the front piece with the console that I made, and then the rear piece wedges in the front (under the edge of the console) and bolts to the rear (near the driveshaft u-joints). If I imagined it right, there should be no visible mounting fasteners when I'm done :cool: We'll see...

Until next time, Happy Building!

Craig C

[F500guy]

Looking good Craig, amazing attention to detail on this, if I had 1/2 that skill....

[Nigel Allen]

I dont see a fuse in the start of that positive ECM cable. Should have one to protect the cable from burning up in a short circuit condition.

I am enjoying following your build, real craftsmanship. Thanks for documenting.


Cheers,

Nige

[cc2Arider]

Looking good Craig, amazing attention to detail on this, if I had 1/2 that skill....

Thanks Lance!

No special skills here...I'm just being the "tortoise" ...sometimes it feels like I'm taking too long to get things done ;)

Craig C

[cc2Arider]

I dont see a fuse in the start of that positive ECM cable. Should have one to protect the cable from burning up in a short circuit condition.

I am enjoying following your build, real craftsmanship. Thanks for documenting.


Cheers,

Nige

Thanks for the encouragement Nigel :)

The Pro-Flo4 system has a built-in fuse hiding nearer to the ECM itself. I put it here 217177

Craig C

[cc2Arider]

Hi Nigel,

Hmmmm...I re-read your suggestion. Agreed -- if a short to ground occurs between the battery and the fuse (along the frame rail or similar)...no bueno. I'll need to make sure there is extra sleeving there...

I'm hoping that the Engineers at Edelbrock did an FMEA on that...otherwise hopefully the visible location of the layout would be enough for me to notice any rub-thru arcing marks...I'll have to keep my eye on it...

[gbranham]

About the limited space on the Driver's side...I completely agree! Thanks for the reminder :) In my zeal to make a "complete" car, I can lose track of the practicality of the build...I'm hoping that I can figure out how to install that panel after I install the body and windshield post.

If I'm following you correctly, you have some sort of aluminum plate (what you're calling a firewall extension) that's going to connect to those 4 rivnut-looking fasteners you've installed? Ok, but what Jeff is talking about is where your wiring is passing through this area; you need as much access as you can get to this area for your wrenches, so you can install your windshield posts once the body is on the car. It's already a difficult task without all this wiring in that area. With that bundle-o-wires where you have it, there's no way you're getting wrenches in there to tighten up your windshield post nuts/bolts.

Greg

[cc2Arider]

Hi Greg,

Thanks for the post :)

I agree that this is a limited space area already. Does this installation plan make sense based on your experience?
1) prep for body install (disconnect wiring in that area, temporarily unfasten and lower the fuse panel, make sure all other impediments are out-of-the-way
2) install body (lots of steps here)
3) carefully lower the windshield posts into place
4) mark areas to cut off and drill (and tap)
5) mock the windshield into place, confirm fitment
6) install bolts, shims(in case too much gap is there...don't want to laterally stress for fear of cracking windshield), and maybe backing nuts
7) connect my wires in that area, going thru the "extension" panel (which is dangling at this point)
8) add bulb seal to the top of my "extension" panel
9) wrangle the "extension" panel into place and fasten
10) re-fasten the fuse panel
11) check work

I think I'm mostly concerned about step 9) since I don't know how much room is there (I'm hoping it is similar to the passenger side)

Craig C

[gbranham]

That should work, yep. I understand now about how you plan to disconnect the wiring temporarily to install the windshield. While I wouldn't personally run any more wiring in that area than is necessary, your plan should get you the access you need to install the windshield post fasteners. I will tell you my Ryobi cordless 18V ratchet was my best friend for this task. ;)

Greg

[Jeff Kleiner]

Step 12) Give your body & paint guy a big bonus for having to deal with it :D

Jeff

[cc2Arider]

Step 12) Give your body & paint guy a big bonus for having to deal with it :D

Jeff

:D Well played, Sir!!

[cc2Arider]

Hey Y'All,

This weekend I spent some time figuring out how I was going to route the Defroster ducts under the cowl and behind the dashpanel. The kit includes a bent metal duct that just wasn't appealing to me. Something is needed for the Passenger-side defroster duct because there's just not enough room over there since the heater box is taking up all the room!

Soooo...I decided to experiment with some Kydex sheet my BroBro gave me :cool:

Here's a simple forming tool I cut diagonally on my mini bandsaw. It's 2" diameter stainless tubing I had left over from a home-improvement project 217456

Then some careful heating with a heatgun, and some coaxing into shape with some wooden dowels, here's the result.
Bottom, shiny-side view 217457, and the textured top-side view 217458.

It was good to see that the texturing was not changed...and this might be visible if seen thru the diffusers at the top of the cowl.

I may make some diffusers, but I sized these ducts to fit the Vintage Air defroster diffuser top pieces just-in-case.

Here's what they look like mocked into position 217459 217460 217461
The main thing that relieved my worries is that I can get this to fit to my liking. Granted, I'll need to rivet/bond these ducts to some Aluminum sheet to seal and shape the top side and to provide a screw hole location for the Vintage Air diffusers, but I'm very relieved that I think this will work! Downside: I will have to block off an opening on the heater box plenum because I just couldn't get everything to fit behind the dash and under the cowl. To make up for that, I've got a 2" Y-adapter so that the 2 diffusers will share a port. If I need to increase the flow to the defrosters, I believe I can simply shut off the heater vents individually under the dash :rolleyes: We'll see...

Did I mention that this was a big relief to figure this out? :) Now I can confidently route the rest of the behind-dash wiring :p

Until next time, Happy Building!

Craig C

[cc2Arider]

Hey Y'All,

I had time for another small project that would test my measurement and spatial thinking skills :p

I wanted to fasten my Center Console to the trans tunnel thru the front part of the trans tunnel top panel that I cut in two. I also wanted to fasten to the "A" panel under the firewall. I had orientation/placement concerns since there's not a right angle to be found in the places I wanted to fasten...and I still can't decide on the upholstery for the "A" panel (carpet or leather). I simply broke the problem down into smaller tasks and made sure I was working in a precise way.

First: I simply took a worst-case thickness measurement and added shims under the fasteners to account for the varying thickness between the leather and the carpet. "squished" carpet was about 0.100"; leather samples that I liked was about 0.040". I knew that I'd wrap the bottom and rear flanges of the console with leather but without foam, and since I can't decide whether to choose carpet or leather for the "A" frame, it made sense to simply choose a shim thickness of 0.140". With that decided, I could clamp the panels together to mark for the holes...offsetting the front edge of the console back 0.140" with shims 217469

Then drill the holes into the trans tunnel tubing with margin left over side-to-side to add riv-nuts and account for the console bottom flanges 217470

Then remove that panel and join to the console at the previously marked orientation, clamp, and drill into the console bottom flanges 217471

Next, cleco it all together thru the top open part (I still need to decide on the console door shape and cut it out later) 217472 217473

It fits solid, and the next step is to add 0.080" shims to the holes I just drilled(to account for leather on the bottom of the console flange and leather on the top of the trans tunnel panel), then drill, cleco, and check the fit to the "A" panel, then drill for the riv-nuts, but that's for later this week. I'll also need to think about adding a decorative top piece to minimize any gaps to my existing hinged access panels on the underside of the dash...decisions, decisions...

Craig C

[cc2Arider]

Hey Y'All,

In this post, I continue with my Center Console design and integration...but first, I finally decided to open up the slotted hole for the steering stem in the "blank" Dash panel to fit over the RT-tribute turn signal collar. All my measurements before told me to file only on one side, and I had doubts, but decided to just go for it, since I could get a replacement if I screwed it up :rolleyes:

Here's the outcome 217692 I ended up using a combination of air-powered carbide bit and drum sander flap wheel.

Fits pretty well -- at least the same as before :p

Next, since I haven't decided if I'm going to wrap the dash panel with leather or coat it with satin crinkle-coat powder-coating, and the interface to the center console is on the same plane, I wanted to add a visual "break", and I chose a 5/16" high by 1.25" deep "L" in aluminum. I'll polish this eventually to match the gauge trim rings :cool: I also made a simple panel to cover the top of the console interior and to provide a good interface to my flip-down access panels under the dash...here's some pictures 217693 217694 and with the access panels dropped down 217695

With the shims added to mimic the leather thickness of the Console (plus my cosmetic trim piece), the Dash panel raised up by that distance, but I think it is within the guidelines of the Build Manual on the Dash Hoop corners. It kinda puts a doubt in my mind about my gauge layout since there might not be enough height between the steering stem collar and my "central" oil pressure gauge...I'll just have to "mind-surf" it some more :)

Until next time, Happy Building!

Craig C

[cc2Arider]

Hey Y'All,

In this post, I can report that I got all the rivnuts installed for my Center Console and front part of the trans tunnel top panel. I temporarily installed with my "usual" 8-32 Button heads...but getting a fastening tool inside the console was a real chore, so...

I spent most of the weekend making (what will later become) my Center Console door trim ring. It's made out of 1/4" aluminum that I had on hand. I'll try to bevel the edges to have a round profile and polish it for the final installation. It will serve also as the mounting point for the inside door flange and the hinge. I'm also hoping it will also hold the leather upholstery in-place...when I get to that point.

I decided to try my trusty old hand-held jigsaw with a metal cutting blade for this job. With patience, it worked! I could get the saw to turn the corners like I wanted :cool:

Here's a picture before I started to file and sand the edge smooth 217959

With the confidence gleaned from that job, I took my air-powered "burp" body saw and cut the center console for a door opening. It took about as long, and I couldn't get it to turn the corners like the trim ring cutout, but it was done and I could get a small Allen wrench inside the console to remove it :p

The rest of the weekend was spent filing and sanding the cut that I just made, but it turned out how I wanted. If it reminds you of the 289 Cobra radiator opening -- it's intentional :cool: Here's a picture 217960

Lastly, here's a couple of pictures of the console interior showing where I fastened it 217961 217962

Until next time, Happy Building!

Craig C

[cc2Arider]

Hey Y'All,

I was able to get some detail work done on my center console this past week. First up: making a trim ring for the center console door opening. It's cut out of 1/4" Al that I had on-hand. Here's a rough initial shape and mock-up 218271 then I refined the shape and width (thickness) a little 218272

It's a good start...although I'm not yet set on the thickness. I think it could do with a little more thinning :confused:

Then I drilled/cleco'ed/fastened the console top panel. 218273This will also serve as a fastening reference for the dash panel and be a cosmetic piece under the dash panel. I can get a 1/4" nut driver on all of the console interior fasteners :cool:

Next post: trimming/fitting the throttle rod and linkage...

Craig C

[cc2Arider]

Hey Y'All,

Just a quickie post about trimming my Forte' throttle linkage rod and confirming the alignment. My Brobro gifted me a table-top lathe a while back and I recently got some cutting bits for it. I tried a cut-off bit, but it didn't make much of a difference -- I'm not sure if my speeds/feeds were correct :rolleyes:

I tried facing and edging bits which worked fine. I also discovered that my bits need to be shimmed up a few thou' to get the best results. Anyway, the material was pretty tough, so I also used a hacksaw and a file :p just to get the job done. Here's the result 218275

And here is the alignment I chose for the engine-bay side of things 218276 Those notes are from the last time I had the engine installed to check the throttle body linkage position. I can slide the rod out without disturbing the pivots or the fuel pressure regulator on the mid-passenger-side of the engine bay :cool:

Here's the alignment inside the top of the Driver's footbox 218277

Next post: finally bending the dash panel outer edges...

Craig C

[cc2Arider]

Hey Y'All,

I committed to bending the dash panel's outer edges this weekend, and the result turned out pretty well. No abrupt bends or bumps, but I took my time and used a variety of improvised bending forms. I also used the Jeff Kleiner recommended bent knee at times, too!

My initial choice is to fasten to the dash panel extension panel(s). When I put the body back on and it doesn't clear the dash corners, then I'll know I chose wrongly :rolleyes: but I believe it will be better for me to try it this way first.

Here's the pictures 218278 218279 218280

Until next post, Happy Building!

Craig C

[Jeff Kleiner]

Looks like the dash is too high. And if you fasten the driver's side it's going to be even more difficult to access the windshield bolts.

Jeff

[Grubester]

Problem with rendering these pics. Might be just me, but I don't have problem with other pics.
They are difficult to open and at best I get a small thumbnail. Not sure if you have other feedback.
Using a Windows 10 PC. -sg

[cc2Arider]

Hi Grubester,

Thanks for following my thread :) There is a setting that I haven't applied yet, which "embeds" the pictures in large format size into each post. I might change that...

Craig C

[cc2Arider]

Looks like the dash is too high. And if you fasten the driver's side it's going to be even more difficult to access the windshield bolts.

Jeff

Thanks for the observation, Jeff! I'll check the height again

[danmas]

Hi Grubester,

Thanks for following my thread :) There is a setting that I haven't applied yet, which "embeds" the pictures in large format size into each post. I might change that...

Craig C

Craig,

I figured this out and it is really helpful. If you need a hand I am happy to jump on a zoom and walk you through it. The software works fine but there are a few buttons you need to click that if you don’t know about … well let’s just say it can be frustrating. PM me if you want to chat…

[cc2Arider]

Thanks Dan! :)

[Nigel Allen]

Craig,

I figured this out and it is really helpful. If you need a hand I am happy to jump on a zoom and walk you through it. The software works fine but there are a few buttons you need to click that if you don’t know about … well let’s just say it can be frustrating. PM me if you want to chat…

Hey Dan,

Great idea. Could you make a you tube, or similar clip. I would like to understand how to embed pics as well.

Cheers,

Nige

[danmas]

Hey Dan,

Great idea. Could you make a you tube, or similar clip. I would like to understand how to embed pics as well.

Cheers,

Nige

I started a new thread on the roadster forum. It’s rough but it shows the steps. I don’t want to hijack a build thread. Cheers…Dan

[cc2Arider]

Hey Y'All,

I scheduled a visit from the local law enforcement to check my chassis and powertrain numbers for my titling process this weekend. I was prepared, but was still unsure how the meeting would go. The Deputies were nice and professional, and it looked like one was being trained by the other.

I pointed out the chassis number and showed where the engine block number was and the transmission number. At this point, I should have paid more attention to what they were focusing on. They didn't seem too interested in the engine number nor the transmission number. Initially, I thought it was that they trusted my pre-filled-out form. The one Deputy wrote down my chassis number at which point both went back to their cruiser for a few minutes...

They returned and showed me that the number didn't conform to their queries. It was at this point the more senior Deputy and me both said, that the number that the Deputy trainee had written down and checked was not a VIN. I actually marked a check-box which said "select if no identification number found". They were both nice about the mistake and filled out and signed a blank for for me ;)

Anyway, I wanted to get that done so that I could install my powertrain without making it awkward to look for the engine and transmission numbers... :p

So, here's the worst-case angle-of-attack 218506 Here's another viewpoint 218508

Here's a viewpoint of the underside where I used a floorjack to lift up the transmission tailshaft housing up into position 218509

For those builders who have not done this before, you really have to slow down when you get close to the final position. For example, try to install the driveshaft while the tailshaft housing is still a few inches forward of its final location. Otherwise it is difficult to get it installed... :rolleyes:

Next post...installation details
Craig C

[cc2Arider]

Hey Y'All,

In this post, I document a few things particular to my build, although not unique at all. Others have chosen the same parts to get their powertrain to fit. Big credit goes out to FMan!! I should mention that I've got a 427W with a Pro-flo4 induction system (which is a little taller than most others), and to compensate for that height, I've got a 7.0" deep oil pan. Shifting the height downward is the result of using solid engine mounts instead of the urethane ones provided in the kit...

Here's some details 218511218512218513

Then the result as viewed from low in front of the vehicle 218899

New post: final pictures and comments about the powertrain installation ...
Craig C

[cc2Arider]

Hey Y'All,

In this (hopefully) last post about my powertrain installation, I've got some comments and pictures...

First up, the overall presentation 218515 This is VERY motivating!! :cool:

Then some comments/encouragement to the other Builders: pre-fitment and pre-measurements go a long ways towards success. I was worried about banging into my fuel pressure regulator assembly on the lower part of the firewall, but the lifting straps didn't touch it and I didn't remove it while installing the powertrain. Here's a perspective 218514

Although not shown clearly, my throttle linkages and planned fuel line routings look like they fit just as I envisioned, as does my battery "power bus" bracket along the main frame rail -- good times! :cool:

Until next time, Happy Building!

Craig C

[danmas]

Looks sweet!

[cc2Arider]

Looks sweet!

Thanks Dan!

I also took your advice and created a Gallery "Album" and uploaded from my phone to the Album, then to the individual posts...although I missed the part about making the images more-to-scale. Was that in your training video?

Craig C

[cc2Arider]

Ooops! Nevermind... :rolleyes:

I see that NWTim added a post about double-clicking the image to select the size....I'll try that next time :)

Craig C

[F500guy]

Nice, great motivator to get to that point!

[danmas]

Thanks Dan!

I also took your advice and created a Gallery "Album" and uploaded from my phone to the Album, then to the individual posts...although I missed the part about making the images more-to-scale. Was that in your training video?

Craig C
In the training video I don’t modify the scale. To make them full size in your post you need to copy and paste the BB code at the bottom of one of your photos. Open your gallery, click on the picture you want to post, scroll to the bottom and copy all the code from the BB box. Then create a new post (or use an existing one) and just paste it in your post. If you select “go advanced” while you are creating your post you will see it as it is displayed to everyone when you click save. Hope that helps.

Dan

[cc2Arider]

Hey Y'All,

In this post, I finish up the mechanical details of my Powertrain installation. First up: installing my "Craig Brake" handbrake bracket plate. Here's some pictures 218841 218842

I have to admit that embedding larger-size images is kinda fun :p

So with my handbrake installed and adjusted, I could then torque my driveshaft bolts in a staged, criss-cross pattern to the Manual-recommended settings (70lb-ft). I added blue Loctite, too.

Feeling pretty chuffed about that, I torqued the IRS half-shaft nuts to 175lb-ft by applying the handbrake, putting the transmission into 1st gear, and wedging some rubber wheel chocks up to the rear tires. The socket fit easily into the wheel hub opening and it was done before I knew it -- super easy! I did not see any thread deformation with my kit-supplied mechanical lock nuts -- seemed to thread on well...

Next up, torqueing the transmission urethane mount bolts and solid-mount engine block bolts...done!

Next up, measuring, cutting, and threading the Forte' mechanical throttle linkage adjustment rods. I used a simple set of twist bits in a hand-held drill and stepped up the size one-at-a-time until I got to the recommended size for the UNF 1/4 fasteners on the rod-ends. Go slow and try to aim straight and the hole should be pretty concentric. What DID surprise me though, was how slow and tedious it was to cut the threads :rolleyes: Using cutting fluid and a 1/2 turn forward, followed by a 1/4 turn backwards got me through it. Surprising how much friction and heat was generated by that... Here's a view of the finished geometry. 218863

I still might change it up a little. It's surprising how many "variables" there are to the rods and arms: pedal height, leverage ratio, pedal height, etc...

Lastly for this post: making my last set of fuel flex lines. A refresher from a previous post: I chose to design a recirculating system with the Edelbrock Pro-flo4 electronic sensor located at the "head" of the rails and the pressure regulator located at the "tail". Here's a picture 218864

Next post: installing my battery powerline "bus"...

Craig C

[cc2Arider]

Hey Y'All,

In this posting, I add my bracket for locating and separating (as much as possible) the battery's positive and negative primary cables. Here's a set of pictures going from the battery, to the starter motor, and finally up to my circuit breakers. Hmmm....for some reason I can't select the image size again :rolleyes:
218865 218866
218867 218868 218869

This last picture shows the details under the alternator218870

Then with that all installed, I hooked up my battery and checked some circuits -- success! The biggest surprise was how loud the horns are :p

I suppose they have to fight for attention when that engine is rumbling :cool:

Until next time, Happy Building!

Craig C

[Jeff Kleiner]

No pictures; attachments are invalid.

Jeff

[cc2Arider]

Let's try this again :rolleyes:

218893 218894 218895 218896 218897

Craig C

[cc2Arider]

Trying to attach a photo of the alternator cable detail ...

218901

I think I have to log-off and log back in if I want to add more than 5 photos to my Album...I'll get it eventually :)

Craig C

[danmas]

The larger pictures look great! Also your work is so clean. Really well done!

[cc2Arider]

Thanks Dan! :)

[cc2Arider]

Hey Y'All,

This past weekend I devoted most of my garage time towards prepping my radiator for final installation. I decided to paint it black for a more authentic look, and I chose Eastwood's Radiator paint for the task...

Scuffing, degreasing, and metal cleaning resulted in a decent prep for the paint, and it laid out well from the spray cans. I got most of the coverage with one can, but got an extra for the final coating (and just in case touchups :rolleyes: ) It was good that I planned ahead for mistakes...'cause I had my wire retainers slip off while trying to unhook them from my painting frame. The radiator bounced off a towel on the concrete floor and revealed a minor scuff on the bottom flange and both hose fittings had dents :mad: I don't think I cracked it, but wowsers, that is some soft aluminum!

I could bend the flanges straight with just finger pressure and I managed to reshape the hose fittings to nearly round again with a wooden dowel. I hope it is alright...we'll see...

Anyway, here's the pictures right before I took it off of the painting frame 219143 219144

Lastly, I trimmed up the bottom edge of my fan shroud, and then scuffed and cleaned it before adding the riv-nuts for the fan assembly. Here's a picture before it goes off for powder coating 219145

Until next time, Happy Building!

Craig C

[cc2Arider]

Hey Y'All,

I wanted to check the fitment of the FFR-provided power steering hoses, and this is what I came up with 219225219226

Is this the "typical" routing? I've heard great things about the Breeze power steering hose kit. Does that route much different?

Let me know what you think :)

Craig C

[cc2Arider]

Hey Y'All,

No feedback about the FFR-provided Power Steering hoses...so I decided to make my own! I chose Earl's products, 'cause they're good stuff :p

I got 6' of their PS reinforced and fabric covered hose ('cause I don't like the braided SS look), steel fittings, etc. I also chose to replace the low-pressure barb fitting on the fluid tank because I might decide to add a cooler later, and I think having AN fittings at both ends will be easier to design for this...

I also decided to route this as I interpreted the FFR-supplied hose (as in my previous post). Here's how it turned out
219537

Here's an overhead perspective
219538

Lastly, an image which shows that I have good clearance to the steering shaft
219539

For a 1st-time effort, I'm pretty "chuffed" how it turned out ;)

The FFR-provided 16.5 fitting did not have an o-ring (I think it was simply an inverted flare), so I ordered one of those with an o-ring that I'll install later to the pressure-side of the pump...

Until next time, Happy Building!

Craig C

[cc2Arider]

Hey Y'All,

The reason for me adding power steering hoses was so that I could top up the fluid reservoir to prepare for cranking the engine :cool:

Along with the aforementioned power steering system, I also checked the drivetrain fluid levels. Interestingly enough, just as MANY others have observed, the IRS came pre-filled with what appeared to be the correct volume of fluid...it just didn't reach the bottom of the fill plug (which is how most measure the system). No worries, I added fresh FORD products from a local Dealer, including the "friction modifier" for the limited slip pack. What's really strange is that Summit did not want to ship the products to me at my home address...must have some potent chemicals or something :rolleyes:

Here's a picture for those who might want to compare their own experience to mine 219540

Next, Forte' sent me 3 qts of the Penzoil Synchromesh fluid for the TKX they sent to me...and wouldn't you know it...that, too seemed like the correct amount of fluid...but just as before, the level did not reach the bottom of the fill plug, so I got another quart and squeezed some more in. It didn't take much more. I did take advantage of my handbrake cover plate to fill up the transmission...but in all reality, I don't think I'll use it in-service in the future -- there seems to be enough room in the tunnel to sneak a fill tube in there... 219541

Lastly, I've heard about the "Garden Sprayer" oil priming method, and I thought I'd try it. It worked well. Here's a picture of the setup
219542

I simply pumped up the sprayer unit about 20 pumps and then hand-rotated the engine with a socket wrench on the front pulley. I then watched (and listened) for oil coming up the pushrods :cool:

The total volume for my 7" Champ pan on a DART 427W was 8 quarts.

Sometime this coming week, I plan to complete the cooling system and add Evans waterless coolant...

So until next post, Happy Building!

Craig C

[cc2Arider]

Hey Y'All,

In my last 2 posts for this weekend, I'm highlighting how my radiator installation turned out.

First up, a before-installation picture of the painted radiator, powder-coated shroud, and installed "more airflow" fan
219545

Next up, the mocked into place Breeze "chin strap" lower radiator mount (what a great nickname!)
219546

Lastly, 2 images of the clearance you can expect when angling the radiator to 58 deg per the instructions
219547 219548

More pictures in post2, next...

[cc2Arider]

Hey Y'All,

In my last post of the weekend, some details and overall imagery of my radiator installation...

An idea for returning to measured offset using zip-ties as an indexing tool. This might also be beneficial for final installation if the straps ever get loose and slip down in-use
219549 219550

Front installed picture. Note the inevitable "angled" look due to the orientation of the top radiator frame tube. It's not too bad looking
219551

Lastly, a view of the shroud, fan, and top hose orientation
219552

Until next time, Happy Building!

Craig C

[gbranham]

You don't need zip ties to index your radiator angle. The nose aluminum will make it abundantly obvious where the radiator needs to sit. And don't fixate on 58 degrees. Place your nose aluminum side pieces on the frame, line up the notches for the quick jacks, and snug the radiator up to the aluminum pieces. Easy peasie.

Greg

[danmas]

Looking good!

[Justin]

Dialed!

[Jeff Kleiner]

You don't need zip ties to index your radiator angle. The nose aluminum will make it abundantly obvious where the radiator needs to sit. And don't fixate on 58 degrees. Place your nose aluminum side pieces on the frame, line up the notches for the quick jacks, and snug the radiator up to the aluminum pieces. Easy peasie.

Greg

Exactly!

Jeff

[cc2Arider]

Hey Y'All,

This past week I was motivated to install the radiator hoses. Thanks to Frank (and another Forum Member) for a suitable upper radiator hose that could be cut and clocked to fit well :)

Here's a picture of the upper 219832

The lower is a Breeze pre-bent tube with selected rubber hose ends. I ended up trimming a little off of the rubber hose nearest to the lower radiator outlet (as outlined in the instructions)...and then the fitment was perfect.

Here's a couple of pictures of the lower. First, the Roadkill view 219833
then a profile view 219836

Next post: a few more radiator hose pictures :)

Craig C

[cc2Arider]

Hey Y'All,

In this follow-up post, I add a few more radiator hose installation pictures
219837
219838

and this last one shows that the height of the filler neck cap is just below the top of the upper frame rails :cool:
219839

Until next time, Happy Building!

Craig C

[cc2Arider]

Hey Y'All,

In this "bonus" post, I managed to get a VIN for my Roadster :cool: I honestly thought it would be more difficult than it was...and my state doesn't have all the "hassles" that many of you have, but still it was a thrill to get my VIN and then engrave it onto my VIN plate and install it. Here it is on the 2x2 frame tube next to the steering column support...
219840

Then later in the week, I applied for title and then registered my Angelina
219841

Even though my build is going slowly, it was a personal goal of mine to get registered in 2025...this gets me extra motivation to keep making headway every week :)

Happy Building...it'll be done before you know it...
Craig C

[cc2Arider]

Hey Y'All,

In this post, I add some detail to the heater cable routing/layout and some of the factors that I considered in my design...you may find this helpful for your builds.

First, I had competing constraints: 1) layout of the Dash Panel to be aesthetically pleasing to me, and 2) locating the coolant valve to be both accessible, but out-of-the-way, in the engine compartment.

The Cable dimensions were fixed because I didn't want to modify this specialty cable, so that meant a balance between my constraints. For those not aware, I chose to use a different "straight" fitting from the heater core, a common 90deg heater hose, and an aftermarket valve first brought to my attention from John Ibele's build -- Thanks! It manages the flow for both inlet and outlet hoses. Using it meant I needed to consider how the valve "sits" in the engine compartment with all the hoses and cable attached. If you use the FFR-supplied valve, your layout can be much less constrained. All these adjustments were achieved by simply trimming the hose lengths to get what I wanted :)

I also wanted to take advantage of a bulkhead-type of pass-thru for the cable instead of a plain rubber grommet. I believed it would help to locate the curve arc of the 90deg turn it has to make from the cockpit to the engine compartment valve. I chose a "cable gland" for this purpose because you can cinch-down the opening for a tight seal. Enough with the set-up! Here's some pictures...

Bigger than "grommet-sized" hole needed, though 220051

Gland-nut 220052

Where my Dash Panel controls will be located
220053

Behind Dash Panel routing..."straight-shot" to minimize bends 220054

Firewall with Gland Nut and cable 220055

Engine Compartment routing 220056

Until next post, Happy Building!

Craig C

[cc2Arider]

Hey Y'All,

In this post, I prep the engine sensor cables (Coolant Temperature & Oil Pressure) provided in the SpeedHut Gauge box to be used and spliced into the Ron Francis provided wiring harness. The SpeedHut sensor cables are shielded with the special sensor connectors already attached, so I wanted to take advantage of that in the "noisy" engine compartment. I did not want 2 cables going thru my firewall, however, so I decided to splice the two sensor cables together...particularly the shielding foil. I found a tool normally useful for Home Entertainment cable prep which cut the insulation, but not the shielding foil :cool: You could pick one up from your local big-box store...

Leaving lots of foil to wrap around both sets of sensor wires, and then wrapping looked like this (also note the "twisted-pair" pig-tails, which are almost as effective as proper shielding)
220057

Then adding heat shrink tubing
220058

Then making sure it would fit into the cable gland nut
220059

Finally, adding my favorite woven split-loom for a tidy appearance
220060

Next, I could finally complete the sticky heat shield mat in the center part of the firewall and cover the cut edges with heat shield tape. Here's the finished result from the cockpit view (behind the dash panel)
220061

Until next post, Happy Building!

Craig C

[cc2Arider]

Hey Y'All,

In this "bonus" post, I wanted to share what some little touches can do for the overall appearance. I went to McMaster-Carr to get some of those Gates heat-shrink hose clamps for my heater hoses and ended up getting some protective hose clamp rubber end-caps. These are to make sure the "tails" don't cut skin, but I noticed they can help tidy-up the appearance of the standard-style hose clamps :cool:

Here's some pictures
220069 220070 220071

Lastly, I got some hose "separators" from Earl's and used one of them to serve as a mounting bracket for my heater hoses (so that they're not just laying on the top of the Passenger footbox...)
220073

Until next time,

Happy Building!

Craig C

[cc2Arider]

Hey Y'All,

I confirmed that I can install my headers with my heat shields -- what a relief! It was certainly like Tetris, but I have a method that I think I can apply even with the body on :cool:

Here's the Driver's side
220097

It was very close, but I think I have a little more than 1/16" clearance. It's a good thing I chose to use solid engine mounts :rolleyes: I'll have to check after running the engine for a time. I suppose I could just add a "small" dent to one of the tubes :p

Here's how close it was
220098 220099

The Passenger side had lots of clearance (as expected)
220100

Lastly, a frontal view
220101

Man, that looks good!!

Now the disappointing news: I'll have to do this all over again when I close up the footboxes with the outside panels :(

Oh well...the price of being "stylish" ;) For those who might want to duplicate this (427W deck height), the critical air gap to the footbox panels in the tight areas needs to be 1/4" or less...

Craig C

[cc2Arider]

Hey Y'All,

In this post, I get most of the holes drilled into the Dash Panel for the switches. The first one had to be the Heater switch since the cable length was a critical dimension for the layout of the heater valve as well as for the switch location. Then the wiper switch was next

220404

Then the Headlight switch (the worry being that it is large behind the dash)

220405

and the remaining switches (Key, Horn Disconnect, and while not really a "switch", I added a 12v plug power source...otherwise known as a cigarette lighter :p )

For those Builders who haven't done this yet, the challenge is to file out all the special straight-edges and tabs so the the switches are "keyed" to prevent them from rotating on the panel as the knobs turn...

220406

I still have to locate and drill for the flasher switch and the RAM mount for the GPS (or the phone-based Edelbrock Pro-flo4 screen :cool: )

I also really need to check my layout plans against the cowl lip near the top of the dash panel before cutting out the gauge holes...that will wait for the next post!

Craig C

[Jeff Kleiner]

"Horn disconnect"--- Explaination please :confused:

Jeff

[cc2Arider]

Hi Jeff,

I plan to use a wireless horn button in the center of the steering wheel. I want to be able to disconnect the horn relay coil wire so that the remote switch doesn't respond to RF noise (like from other near-field devices)...

Closing this switch would be a normal part of the engine start-up procedure...and the reverse for shutting down (or in case it responds inappropriately while driving ;) )

Craig C

[cc2Arider]

Hey Y'All,

I got some good news in the mail this past week, and I thought to share it with you...got my plate approved!
220725

I've got a long way to go, but it feels good that I registered it as a 1965 and I got my plate, so if I want to get a vintage plate and use it (and no one else is), my State will let me do that too :cool:

Good bit of motivation to keep me energized!

Craig C

[cc2Arider]

Hey Y'All,

In this post, I describe my first attempt at upholstery...

I chose to start with a simple piece that will be mostly hidden from normal view :rolleyes: :the transmission tunnel panel under the center console. It doesn't have any compound curves, but does have some corners and holes to work around.

First image is of the bottom side where I affixed some thermal heat shield mats and seam tape
220729

Then an image of the top side where I glued on some 1/8" neoprene rubber foam (hat tip to Marcel)
220730

Then a nearly final trimmed leather section...note the funny-shaped corners. Learned from watching TV!
220731

Glued into place
220732

Here's the detail of those funny-shaped corners. They help to pull and hold the corners better. Not my best work, but functional:p
220733

Mocked into place to check overall fit and appearance
220734

A final note: while I was muscling on the pass-thru grommets to check fit, I noticed that the leather would dimple a little in the foam areas...now I know why upholsterers use a Steam gun...to relax the bond between the foam and leather to smooth it back out :cool:

This week, I'll try to check the fit of the console and dash panel to see if I measured for the upholstery thickness correctly. Wish me luck!

Craig C

[cc2Arider]

Hey Y'All,

This past week I spent doing little projects now that the console bottom panel was upholstered. I could add loom tape and heat resistant wire covering to the main harness power wires and the starter solenoid wire. I also finished the ends with some heat shrink -- sorry no pictures this time.

I also fastened the hydraulic clutch line bulkhead fitting and flex lines to the clutch slave cylinder. Then I fished the rear harness loom thru its dedicated grommet in order to route it up to the dash panel area.

Lastly, I reattached my Center console (temporarily) to check the fit. So far...so good, but I got a new leather hide that matches the FFR leather seats, and it is slightly thicker than my other leather sample...which means I need to attach the body again to check the dash panel's fit...

Craig C

[cc2Arider]

Hey Y'All,

Not much "achievement" in this post...instead "activity"...

It took the better part of the afternoon today to carefully re-mount the body. As before, I used the trick Jeff Kleiner recommended: affix small diameter PVC pipe to the door hinges as "spreader" guides. Doing this permits solo efforts ;)

I wanted to check how the dash panel "hoop" looked in relation to the front of the cockpit, but I needed to check some other panel clearances, too.

First up, my special mirrored heat shields. I knew that these needed to be trimmed, but they actually weren't that bad.
220989 220990

Then the dash panel "extensions. I also knew these needed to be trimmed to make sure the front of the cowl "sets down" onto the firewall bulbseal...although the bulbseal fits well already and I can see that it is squished. Proper trimming will allow me to add bulbseal to these panels, too, without adversely affecting the overall fit.

220991 220992

Then some general observations. Please let me know if this is a "thing" or not. Does the rear cockpit cowl edge need sit evenly onto the bulbseal? Mine has a gap on the Passenger side that is different than the Driver's side
220993

Then this was what I wanted to see -- the relationship of the front cowl edge to the dash panel "hoop"
220994

The cowl edge sits "proud" of the hoop in most places, which was a surprise for me. I may check the fit again this week (after I attach the quickjack bolts). I'm also gonna try to install the dash panel with the body in place (as an experiment)...after all, I might need to remove it with the body in place to change out gauges or switches....we'll see.

Until next time, Happy Building!

Craig C

[Jeff Kleiner]

Then some general observations. Please let me know if this is a "thing" or not. Does the rear cockpit cowl edge need sit evenly onto the bulbseal? Mine has a gap on the Passenger side that is different than the Driver's side
220993



The top of the rear bulkhead wall (between the trunk side walls) does not get bulb seal.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/albums/jj43/jkleiner/Mk4%207276/100_2601-1.jpg

Jeff

[cc2Arider]

Thanks Jeff! :)

Two additional questions:
1) How far down the sides of the rear bulkhead does the bulbseal go?
2) Does the top of the rear bulkhead wall get any sort of edge "protection"?

Craig C

[cc2Arider]

Hey Y'All,

This post covers some of the body fitment checks I did this past week. First up though is a picture that I missed to add for a previous post about the under side of the console in the transmission tunnel
221291

Then I confirmed that my idea for a removeable rear valance panel worked like I wanted -- no drastic bending of panels needed. Instead I just lift up the rear part of the body and insert the panel between the "Jeff Kleiner Mod" coupling nuts. The panel fits the same as the stock panel. Here, I show that I'll need to trim it a little to get the bulbseal to fit with some give to allow the valance to be adjusted to fit the curve of the trunk lid
221292

Then, I wanted to confirm that the space for the steering wheel was still good since I made my own Russ Thompson tribute steering shaft locating plate
221293 221294 221295

Then lastly, I needed to confirm the fitment of the dashpanel to the body cowl. Yes, it fits, but Jeff was right -- I need to trim the corners of my dashpanel down a bit. There was no wiggle room...
221296

Until next time,
Happy Building!

Craig C

[cc2Arider]

Hey Y'All,

Today I trimmed up the dashpanel corners and the firewall extensions to better fit with the body cowl area. I made note of the tight areas while the body was on, and then primarily followed an offset of the lower cowl "lip" outline that I drew on the dashpanel itself :cool:

Driver's side
221297

Passenger side
221298

Then, since I discovered that I can't install or remove the dashpanel with the body mounted, I experimented with removeable panels. One mounts the primary gauge set, and the other might serve as a glovebox (very shallow one :p )

Even though I like the symmetry, I'm not quite "feeling it" :rolleyes: It still doesn't look "balanced"...
221299

Nonetheless, here I confirm the pseudo Competition layout is still visible behind the steering wheel
221300

I think I might be onto something, but I'll need to think on it some more...

Craig C

[cc2Arider]

Hey Y'All,

In my last post of this weekend, I decided to make another heat shield while "noodling" on my dash panel strategy...

It is intended to protect the heater hoses and passenger side wire harness (mainly ECU), but I'm not sure if it is really going to help much. I enjoyed working with my hands on a simple project :D
Once again, I used thin polished stainless steel panels...
221301

221302

221303

Until next time, Happy Building!

Craig C

[cc2Arider]

Hey Y'All,

I figured out my Dash Panel design :D

Things I wanted: to cover up the oblong hole for the steering stem, to add some dimension to an otherwise typical "Competition" layout, to have symmetry

Constraints: accommodate how the body cowl edge drops down below the dash hoop tube at the corners, fit the "important" gauges into the space behind the steering wheel so that they fit and can be seen easily while driving, make a trim ring design that would fit the "important" gauges as well as be a reasonable size and shape for a glove box on the other side in a symmetric location

Here's what I decided
221632

221633

221634

and here's the result after careful pilot hole location and use of a drill press with hole saw attached (2 1/8" for the small gauges, 4" for the large ones; this has some accommodation for wrapping with leather or adding powder coating, but is not so large either). Much like the other Builder's, I had some trepidation about cutting up a perfectly good blank dash panel...but I bought a spare, so let's get to cuttin!!

Driver's view
221635

Overall rear view
221636

There's more work to do...but it's finally lookin' like somethin'! :cool:

Until next time, Happy Building!

Craig C

[cc2Arider]

Hey Y'All,

In this post, I perform a lot of activity by cutting up 1/4" Al sheet in order to make my Dash Pane's trim rings (but not a lot to show for all the effort :rolleyes: )

First up, the roughed out shape. I used a combination of hand tools, a desk-top band saw, and a drill press with various hole saw attachments...
222020

Then I managed to finalize the perimeter shape for the Driver's side gauge "pod"
222021

This week, I plan to refine the inner perimeter shape, then use it as a template for the Glove box trim ring. I plan to do the same for the Console door to copy as a shift boot trim ring :cool:

Until next post, Happy Building!

Craig C

[Jeff Kleiner]

Photos won't load.

Jeff

[cc2Arider]

Thanks for the feedback Jeff...initially they didn't load for me, but after about 30 seconds, they loaded. Not sure if I need to inform the Webmaster?

[cc2Arider]

Hey Y'All,

Hope you had a Happy Thanksgiving!

I spent the better part of last week in the garage working on my Dash panel and console trim rings...

Once I got one trim ring shaped out, I copied it by sandwiching both pieces together and then used a hand-held router with bit to clean up the roughed-out profile.

Here, I copy the Console trim ring for the shifter and handbrake boot trim ring

222236

and here, I'm in the middle of duplicating the gauge pod trim ring from the glovebox door trim ring

222237

Next, I proceeded to make the panel doors using flat Al sheet and piano hinges

222238

Lastly, here's a picture of my duplicated trim ring for the shifter and handbrake boot (mocked into the planned location)

222239

For those wondering...yes, you can use a big-box-store router bit meant for countertops to cut aluminum...in fact, they performed better than a special spiral-cut bit meant for aluminum (because this special $90 router bit chucked its guide bearings just as I was trying to finish up the shifter & handbrake boot trim ring). Just go slow to feel and hear the metal cutting properly...don't force it...and of course wear safety glasses :p I saw Ian Roussel do this in one of his TV shows and while initially doubtful, I liked his creativity to use the tools at his disposal...

Next post: more trim ring and panel creation :)

Craig C

[cc2Arider]

Hey Y'All,

In this last post of the weekend, I thought I'd lead off with a funny image -- Al shavings from the use of router bits on my trim rings ... there's a lot there!
222243

which was the result of finishing my gauge pod trim ring. I also made a panel "blank" to be cut next...

222257

Gauge pod carefully duplicated

222244

and here, I'm checking the fit to the critical locating factor of the steering shaft collar (so I don't have to make a bezel ring just for it)

222245

Lastly, a mockup of my week's long efforts

222246

If I designed this right, then I can remove the overall dash panel while the body is mounted :cool:

Until next time, Happy Building!

Craig C

[cc2Arider]

Hey Y'All,

This weekend I fitted my console with the decorative (and reinforcing) trim ring and console door...

Here's a picture with the door closed

222564

and with the door partially opened

222565

I still need to locate the latch assembly and bevel the trim ring so that the door opens all the way. The good news is that my plan worked -- the door clears the shifter throughout the travel arc :cool:

Next post: finishing the dash panel openings...

Craig C

[cc2Arider]

Hey Y'All,

In this last post of the weekend, I trimmed up the new openings in my Dash Panel...and re-checked the overall fit. It's nerve-wracking for me since every hour I put into it will be more effort to duplicate if I mess it up :rolleyes:

Here's a picture with the new glove box door closed

222566

and with the door opened

222567

as with the Console trim ring, I'll need to locate/install the latch assembly and bevel (or profile) the trim ring to get the door opening interference-free. I may decide to design an opening limiter anyway...

Also, I decided to design my glove box as a shallow assembly of laminated pieces fastened by the trim ring bolts :cool:

Until next time, Happy Building!

Craig C

[cc2Arider]

Hey Y'All,

This past week I spent detailing out the Console and Shift Boot trim ring bezels. I used quarter round router bits and hand files. I still need to polish them...but that can wait for later. :p
Here's a picture:

222869

Then, I designed my glovebox. It couldn't be very deep and I wanted to continue to get practice using the hand-held router, so I made it out of ABS plastic and layered several sheets together to get the depth. Here's a work-in-progress using hole saws...

222870

Here's some details:

222871 222872

and mocked into position

222873

Next post: profiling the dash panel's trim ring bezels...

Craig C

[cc2Arider]

Hey Y'All,

Once I got the glovebox cut out, I could now add contour to the dash panel trim rings (since up to now they were used as "tooling" because they had a conveniently flat profile).

I used simple quarter round router bits and lots of hand filing to get them presentable. Here's a few pictures as they were shaped...I cut the outside edge first since that gave me the best stability, then I cut the inside edge since I could take advantage of the overall shape to keep the router level.

222874

with details

222875

bolted back-to-back to give strength while cutting. Viewed on-edge looks like 1/2" diameter rod :cool:

222876

and mocked into place. I had to relief cut the gauge pod bezel a little to get the keyswitch fastener on, but no biggie!

222877

Lastly, I located and fitted the Glovebox and Console door locks. I had originally wanted to install nice-looking push button keyed locks, but they were too big for the space available (especially for the glovebox :rolleyes: ), so I used simple cabinet locks that look acceptable. A bonus is that the latch lever (or pawl) itself could be used as-is...no tedious fitting required (at least so far :rolleyes: )

222878

So until next post, Happy Building!

Craig C

[Jeff Kleiner]

Photos still aren’t loading Craig. Don’t know why—-everyone else’s are working for me :confused:

Jeff

[danmas]

Photos still aren’t loading Craig. Don’t know why—-everyone else’s are working for me :confused:

Jeff

I am seeing them Jeff.

@craig: they say that envy is the thief of joy, but in this case I don’t think so. I envy your detailed skills and capability. I doubt I can ever match you but I really do enjoy seeing what you are doing. Well done sir! Well done indeed!

[cc2Arider]

Photos still aren’t loading Craig. Don’t know why—-everyone else’s are working for me :confused:

Jeff

Hi Jeff,

Thanks for checking!

When I log back-in to check my thread, the pictures do not pop up for me, either (initially). I'm wondering since they are "large" format, they may need some time to load. After about 10~20 seconds, they do load up :(

Craig C

[cc2Arider]

I am seeing them Jeff.

@craig: they say that envy is the thief of joy, but in this case I don’t think so. I envy your detailed skills and capability. I doubt I can ever match you but I really do enjoy seeing what you are doing. Well done sir! Well done indeed!

Thanks for the kind words Dan! It's taking me longer for my build, but I'm trying to savor all the moments...plus it's been very cold here this weekend...not much else to do :D

Craig C

[danmas]

Thanks for the kind words Dan! It's taking me longer for my build, but I'm trying to savor all the moments...plus it's been very cold here this weekend...not much else to do :D

Craig C

I have slowed down a bit on my build, partly because I have been so busy doing other things and partly because I have been enjoying thinking through issues and solutions. It’s a special process and the goal isn’t the end state but rather the journey, at least for me.

[PMD24]

Craig, that's some very impressive work making those trim rings largely by hand. They look great. A ton of work but turning out super nice and very unique. Anxious to see the finished product.

Pat

[cc2Arider]

I have slowed down a bit on my build, partly because I have been so busy doing other things and partly because I have been enjoying thinking through issues and solutions. It’s a special process and the goal isn’t the end state but rather the journey, at least for me.

I totally agree and understand your process :)

[cc2Arider]

Craig, that's some very impressive work making those trim rings largely by hand. They look great. A ton of work but turning out super nice and very unique. Anxious to see the finished product.

Pat

Thanks Pat :)

Part of my journey is to see what I can do and try it...after thinking thru lots of options :p

I still paint myself into a corner on occasion, but just like Dan mentioned, part of the process is to think thru solutions...and when you see the "other side" that's really rewarding!

Craig C

[cc2Arider]

Hey Y'All,

I got my Dash Panel inserts and Console door back from the Powder Coater :)

He had a textured black finish that I was hoping would mimic the "crinkle" black painted look. Here's a couple of pictures in bright sunlight. I'm hoping the glare is not much when it's in the car...:rolleyes: ... if so, then I'll just have to re-do them...

Dash Gauge pod and Glovebox door with my choice of leather for the Dash. This is the same leather that John Ibele used for his build...

223162

Console Door with my choice of a different leather for the console and the trans tunnel top. This leather texture most closely matches the leather inserts of the seats...

223163

Craig C

[cc2Arider]

Hey Y'All,

Not much to show in this post...just lots of detailed fitting now that I've chosen my leather. The Dash leather is about 0.040" thick, whereas the Console and Trans tunnel top leather is closer to 0.055" thick.

I decided to change my mind on the interface between the Dash and Console. It'll be a T-shaped extrusion that I'll have powder-coated black crinkle finish. It'll serve as a decorative piece which "breaks up" the visual appearance a little without being a focal point. I have enough of those :p. I'm hoping it will also protect the glued leather edge on the front of the dash panel's lower mounting flange. I got the extrusion from McMaster-Carr and I had to trim down the edge since it came as a 1" deep x 1.5" tall piece.

Here I used my router technique with some 1/8" plus 1/4" rectangular stock as spacers: one side is trimmed to 3/8" and the other is 1/4". I may decide to reduce that 1/4" down to 1/8"...we'll see...
223164

and here's a mockup on the car...after more fitting to keep it level with the back cockpit 3/4" frame tube
223165

I know that no one would notice on the finished car since there are so many curves, but I'd remember that I didn't do a good job...and it would eat at me everytime...so I got the details to my liking :)

This may be my last post of the year, and while I was hoping to get my engine started by now, I'm looking forward to spending time with family for the Holidays :o

Merry Christmas and Happy New Year!

Craig C

[cc2Arider]

Happy New Year Everyone! I hope your 2026 is healthy and fulfilling ;)

I was back in the garage and finally got to finish up my Dash Panel's fastening strategy. I'll use the Dash Panel frame hoop tube, the bottom edge of the Dash (where it interfaces with my Console), and the outer flanges (near the doors) as my "lock-down" fastening points.

My Dash Panel "trim rings" will camouflage the fasteners there...or maybe I should say that they'll perform double-duty :) This meant precision drilling for me and it was somewhat stressful...but it worked out well. Most of the top fasteners will be riv-nuts, but 2 of them are too close to the edge of the hoop frame tube for riv-nuts, so they'll be plain sheet metal screws (like the Build Manual example).

Here's the mock-up at the Dash frame hoop: glovebox 223602

and gauge pod 223603

Then, I needed to add the riv-nuts to my Dash Panel "extensions"
223604

and then fastened
223606

and here it is installed (mostly)...and still where I wanted it :p
223605

This was a big milestone for me :cool: I'll just need to get some more low-profile riv-nuts to finish it out...

Next Post: Under Dash access panels (finally)

Craig C

[cc2Arider]

Hey Y'All,

In this last post of the weekend, I create my under dash access panels. I had previously made them "rough", but now that the Dash Panel is "locked down", I can finish the details (such as making room for the heater ducts and vents and making the whole thing "presentable" :) These are hinged at the back (near the large square cross cockpit frame tube) and the front can be unfastened quickly with Phillip's head screwdriver (if the need ever arises)...

Here's more detail work done with the help of "CAD" cardboard-aided-design :p
223607

I purposefully did not get out the hammer and shot bag to keep the panels simple-to-build to show you that you can approximate interesting shapes without getting expensive tools and learning high-skill techniques. I hope this is an inspiration to you to get creative! :D

And then 2 views of it fastened into place
223608 223609

similar work was done on the Passenger-side
223610 223611

Now that these panels are formed, they can go to the Powder-coater for more black-crinkle finish :cool:

Until next time, Happy Building!

Craig C

[cc2Arider]

Hey Y'All,

Now that I'm almost ready to send more Dash panels off to the Powder-Coater, I wanted to revert my attention back to the wiring so that I can pressurize the fuel system and check for leaks. This was a milestone I really wanted to cross off...

I was able to re-do my behind-dash wiring again (after a couple of months of it being apart) pretty easily, then I re-wired the key-switch, hooked up the battery and fuel pump relay again, got my Edelbrock Pro-Flo app ready, then added a couple of gallons of gas to the tank.

Here's a simple restraining bracket I made to keep the fuel neck from flopping over 223812

It took a couple of priming periods (key cycles) to fill the fuel filter canister and purge the system. I checked for leaks each time. So far...so good.

Once I saw a non-zero pressure at the regulator gauge, I checked all the joints again, and the good news is that all my hand-made joints were leak free! The bad news is that the NPT joint appeared to be leaking at the pressure sensor itself :(

I was thinking the 1st thing to try would be to tighten it a little, so I looked at the Edelbrock website as well as the Summit website, and I didn't see any specialized wrench for the sensor. Here's a picture
223813

Does anyone know what size wrench this needs? It appears to be about 1 & 1/16" or 27mm between the flats...

I figured it might take a "standard" sensor wrench...however specialized they might be, but couldn't find any.

Helpful suggestions welcomed :)

Craig C

[Mike.Bray]

223815

[cc2Arider]

Thanks Mike ;)

I can try an adjustable wrench, but was hoping for something else since I'll have to remove that junction from the fuel line just to get that large of a wrench in on it...

Craig C

[PMD24]

Craig, when you pull that apart and confirm that it's tapered pipe thread, be sure to apply thread sealant and stay a thread or two back from the end of the fitting. And no teflon tape.

Pat

[cc2Arider]

Thanks Pat! I'll try to tighten a little, then if more of a solution is needed, that was my plan, too :)

Craig C

[cc2Arider]

Hey Y'All,

Good news about my fuel pressure sensor leak. It was the joint at the sensor that was leaking :) I ended up carefully removing that junction block to put it into aluminum vise jaws to unscrew the sensor. It was on there tight (by force)...apparently the old thread sealer did a good job of gluing it, but not of sealing it :rolleyes: I cleaned it up and put some fresh Earl's sealant on it, tightened back up, refastened, and checked for leaks...all good now! Thanks for the tips :)

Craig C

[cc2Arider]

Hey Y'All,

This past weekend, I worked on the final details of my Driver's side gauge pod...

In hindsight, I should've done more custom work before sending off for powder-coating...nonetheless, I made reliefs for the turn signal switch wires and the keyswitch. First though, I added low-profile nut-serts for the remaining fastening holes. Here's a couple of pictures with fasteners attached for mock-up

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and here's the refinement of the gauge pod with relief cuts and indicator lights mounted. For those interested, the indicator lights are 10mm diameter, high intensity(more on that later) LEDs...you can also see the low-profile nut-serts.

224269

Craig C

[cc2Arider]

Hey Y'All,

In this last post of the weekend, I wanted to share that the dash switch wires got tailored to my layout needs (i.e., they got shortened :p ). The light switch wires simply got shortened with splices because I didn't want to go to the trouble of getting new female spades with restraining barbs to fit into the stock plastic connector. The keyswitch was easier since those are simple ring terminals -- I just made new ones. The remaining light-duty switches got new terminals on shortened leads...

Here's a rough picture

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Then a couple of pictures I am really excited about -- images of what the indicator lights look like when illuminated. I wanted them to be bright so that I could see them clearly in direct sunlight. I think I succeeded -- these should remind me to not act like an old man and leave my blinkers on ... unaware for miles :p

High Beams

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Turn signals

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For those wondering...yes, I used the emergency flasher switch and relay for this test ... and you can see the intensity difference of the left front indicator light just above the Driver's side front tire(park lights versus turn or flasher lights) :cool:

Until next post, Happy Building!

Craig C

[Jeff Kleiner]

I had LED indicators like that on my first roadster… great to be able to see them on a sunny day but they sear your retinas when driving at night. I had to kill the intensity by blacking them out with a Sharpie.

Jeff

[cc2Arider]

Thanks Jeff...your perspective is most helpful :)

A backup plan is to add some Zener diodes "after the fact" in the harness. A much better plan would be to source the power from the variable intensity dash lighting...but that seems like too much trouble :p

Craig C

[cc2Arider]

Hey Y'All,

Winter weather here, so I'm happy to be working on "inside" projects :D and since I didn't want to be inhaling glue fumes, that meant more dash panel wiring...

First I needed to confirm how much room I have behind the dash panel (again). I decided to move my Driver's side heater duct all the way closest to the firewall to provide maximum room for the harness design and layout. I used adhesive-backed zip-tie mounts...

Here's a perspective
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I also figured where I'd have the most room to add connectors and extra wiring for serviceability. Looks like between the Tachometer and the Speedometer is the compromise area since the heater and defroster ducts are taking up so much space...

With that in mind, here's my Driver's side gauge pod wiring with connectors so that I can remove the "main" dash panel without removing the gauge pod (and steering wheel, turn signal assembly, etc)

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Installed and confirmed connector locations are still "in the zone".

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The wiring was good with the exception of the turn signal indicators...somehow I got them reversed...no worries...since I used weatherpacks, I just re-arranged 2 pins and fixed :cool:

Feeling pretty good and wanting to reach a milestone for the weekend, I started on the "main" dash gauge wiring. Here's an initial wiring layout

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and confirming that there's still room back there. Just barely

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Getting the heater/defroster system fully functional and installed "with purpose" has been one of the bigger challenges of my build. Feels good to see it through :D

One last note: The FFR-supplied light switch is "HUGE" compared to the other switches, so plan your layout around that. I mistakenly located my trip reset button right underneath the light switch and I think I may have to source another simple SPST push button switch because the molded strain-relief of the Speedhut-supplied switch harness is too tall...

Until next post, Happy Building!

Craig C

[cc2Arider]

Hey Y'All,

I couldn't resist the temptation to quickly wire up my Dash panel gauges with some twist-nuts "just to see" what they looked light illuminated and if they would measure the voltage accurately, keep clock time, and measure what meager fuel level I have in the tank...

Here's the gauges illuminated -- looks good!
224704

Apologies if this is in a "sticky" post, but is it normal for the gauge "dimmer" function on the light switch to not affect the Speedhut gauge lighting at-all?

It is either "on" or "off"...no dimming :(


Next, I confirmed that the gauges "sweep" upon power-up, then I checked the values for "reasonableness". Seems good...however, upon power-down, I noticed that the volt meter still "held" the last value, as did the fuel gauge.

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Is that normal? I confirmed that I'm using the brown "gauge feed" wire and it is on the Accessory circuit. Furthermore, it has zero voltage with key off. Is this an artifact of the stepper motor gauge design, or is the power-down "park" function not working properly?

Feedback welcomed...:)

Craig C

[Jeff Kleiner]

Yes, it’s normal for the Speedhut gauges to hold the last value when power is cut. So once you have it running you’ll find that the tach, oil pressure, temp, volts, etc. will all show what you had when you shut it off.

Jeff

[cc2Arider]

Thanks Jeff for confirming the gauge behavior :)

I checked again, and if I key cycle "just right", I can get the needles to go back to the park positions.

I'm also going to check my dimmer voltages...maybe an artifact of using an incandescent circuit on an LED system...:confused:

Craig C

[cc2Arider]

Hey Y'All,

Since I got confirmation that the gauges seem to be powered and illuminated correctly, I got busy finalizing the center gauge wiring details.

First up, making sure I package the gauge wiring so that I can attempt to service them in the future: with a little extra wire length, dedicated connectors, and zip-ties :)

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Next, customizing the gauge switches to make them fit better for my dash layout (since there's so much competing for the same space behind the dash)

motivation:
224970
then re-soldering similar switches (they might actually be the same sourced switches) to reduce the installed height
224971

then taking advantage of adhesive-backed zip-tie mounts to keep the main harness where I want it on the firewall panel (behind the dash)
224972

Next, checking the fit. Geez it was tedious, fiddly work to make sure I wasn't forcing it or pinching wires...I sure hope this extra effort pays dividends down-the-road...when I might have to remove the dash.

224973 224974

Next post, getting the dash more ready for 1st engine start :cool:

Craig C

[cc2Arider]

Hey Y'All,

I'm a little behind in my goals for this Winter...I really wanted to get to 1st engine start back in December...so, trying to make good progress while it is frigid outside :p As an aside, I'm really happy I got my garage more usable at the start of this endeavor a couple of years ago. Negative temperatures outside this past week...reasonable temperatures in the garage with a small space heater :cool:

While trying to get the dash panel installed with all the "stuff" attached to it, I found that my "vintage" cigarette lighter is interfering with my behind dash ductwork :(

224975

I think I'll attempt to bend or otherwise reshape the connection terminals this week. Wish me luck that I don't have to re-design anything else!

The overall package with vintage knobs :cool: I like it!!!

224976

I still need to upholster the dash and console, but that involves using contact cement, and I'm not willing to do that job while it's cold outside (vapors plus space heater in the garage...no), so that job will wait until after engine start...

Then I got REALLY motivated to unpackage my "engine start" sidepipes and mock them into place. I'll save my Gas-N pipes for the "real" installation later...

I copied other Builders and simply swapped the pipes side-to-side so that the mounting tab pointed up. Then used the supplied mounting bracket mounted to the door hinge bolt hole.

224977

mounting details with rubber washers for crude vibration "dampers"

224978 the passenger side required spacers, so I just used some extra washers224979

Observation:

Adding the sidepipes really makes the car wider than before. I hit my shins several times already :p

Getting closer to 1st start...maybe next post :rolleyes:

Until then, Happy Building!

Craig C

[cc2Arider]

Hey Y'All,

Today I put together my Courtesy lighting system. I used high intensity LED panel lights so that they'd be the same vendor/source that I used for the dash indicator lights. :cool:

I got them delivered this past week, so I spent the AM making a harness fixture. I never made one before, but have seen them in Aviation manufacturing. I already had a multi-purpose 24"x24" plywood work surface, so I just layed-out the dimensions and screwed temporary zip-tie mounts at the desired lamp locations. I gave some extra length so that the installed harness would be tidy against the mounting panels and went to work...

Here's the fixture serving its purpose

225318

A few crimps for the Weatherpack 2-way connectors and it was time to test it on the car. Here's a picture (dark garage, but bright sunlight coming thru the small garage door windows :rolleyes: )

225319

Then, I located and mounted the door sill lights and here are the results

225320 225321

There will be additional lights on either side of the console pointing down at the sides of the transmission tunnel near the inner footbox panel edges, but that will have to wait for me to take out my console reinforcement panel and drill the holes...

Lastly, here's an image of the approximate lighting for the inside of the console (using one high intensity LED)

225322

Next post: First engine start!

Craig C

[cc2Arider]

Hey Y'All,

I couldn't wait to post this...it's been a long time coming :rolleyes:

https://rumble.com/v75g302-angelina-first-start.html

The setup:

I took out all the spark plugs and turned over the engine with the starter to verify that I could see oil pressure values on the dash gauge.

Then I reinstalled the plugs and did a nut-and-bolt of the engine bay and exhaust (and cleaned off the smudges from the headers).

Then I got 2 fire extinguishers at-the-ready.

Then I got the Edelbrock Pro-Flo4 ready on my smart phone and hit the record button on my old smart phone camera on a tripod...

Good news: no drastic leaks; the solid engine mounts didn't seem noticeable at all; nothing fell off :rolleyes:

The not-so-good news: the alternator doesn't seem to be charging the battery; the Passenger-side headers got a lot hotter than the Driver's side. I hope my wiz-bang fuel line design isn't the reason...we'll see :p

Also for the record, I didn't mess with the Pro-Flo4 settings at-all -- I used what Mike Forte' had programmed in when he tested it on the dyno a couple of years ago...so I may "store" the Forte' tune, and attempt to load in a fresh set-up "wizard" tune for next time...

All-in-all, I'm very pleased...can't wait to keep working on Angelina some more!

Happy Building,

Craig C

[PMD24]

Congrats man! BIG milestone.

Pat

[BUDFIVE]

Brings a smile….congrats

[Jeff Kleiner]

Big congrats on the milestone Craig!

Jeff

[cv2065]

Congrats Craig! Sounds great!

[cc2Arider]

Thanks Pat, BudFive, Jeff, and Chad for the well wishes! This forum is GREAT :)

Craig C

[cc2Arider]

Hey Y'All,

I'm back down to earth now that I got the engine started. I plan to follow-up Tues or Wed this week for some more fun since the temperatures are gonna be in the upper 30s to mid 40s -- I can leave the garage door open for extended idling and tuning :cool:

So...to round out my weekend, I got back to some dash wiring. Special thanks to Jeff for providing feedback on my "bright" indicator lights. I got to thinking, and I decided to make a simple dimmer circuit for both the indicator lights as well as the gauge lights.

I sourced a 2-gang 10k Ohm pot (typically used for electric guitars) so that I could dim both independent circuits at the same time. Then I made a simple bracket out of some left-over 0.040" Al sheet and mounted it below the steering column in the two unused bolt holes. The potentiometer was small enough to fit into the space that was cut-out from the factory bracket :cool:

I can reach under the steering column to make adjustments (as needed) while driving. Here's a few pictures...

Normal "bright" setting

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and "Dim" setting

225347 225348

Sometime next week, I plan to disassemble my dash and console to get access for the gauge wiring, and add my dimmer circuit for that...

Until next time, Happy Building!

Craig C

[cc2Arider]

Hey Y'All,

I was planning to work on my instrumentation dimmer circuit, but I got sidetracked with another job. I noticed that when the cooling system got up to operating temperature, that the heater lines would get soft and sag a little due to the unsupported weight of my heater valve :(

I'd like to keep that valve from bouncing on top of the Passenger footbox panel, so I made a bracket :cool: Better to get this out-of-the-way now while I can get to everything...

I had some polished Stainless sheet in a left-over, odd-ball shape, so I trimmed it up, drilled some holes, and bent it. Then I used some spare RAM mount handlebar mounting hardware (u-bolt, plus plastic tubing spacer, and plastic bolt nubs) to create this:

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Not too bad for some spare parts lying around :D

Next post: more Cooling system finishing

Craig C

[cc2Arider]

Hey Y'All,

Late post from this past weekend due to my account being accessed inappropriately or ??? :confused:

As some of you have also gone thru deliberations on which Coolant Tank to use, I'll outline my thoughts and decision...then show you what I did.

I liked FMan's choice of a Canton 2qt unit, and this is reflected in many other builds...special thanks goes to Greg for getting me some measurements for his installation :)

I went so far as to make a cardboard model and mocked it up in the engine bay...I just wasn't "feeling it". I then thought again about the FFR-supplied 1qt unit, and how to make it work for my build...

Rightly or wrongly, I believe I don't need a large tank since I'm using the Evans waterless coolant...and therefore don't expect it to expand much under high heating conditions. Then, I remembered some had used a Mishimoto tank, so I looked into it. It is only 1qt size, but has options to configure it and it appeared to be well-made. I checked Summit, and it was less expensive, too...so I bought it as a "let's try it" experiment.

Here, I've mocked it into place:

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I liked what I was seeing...then deliberated for a long time about "how" to mount it. Then, I took the advice of others who say not to overthink things (which is a hard habit for me to break :rolleyes: )... so, instead of making a new bracket for it, I decided (like many other Builders) to just mount it to the F-panel...so that's what I did. I drilled out the holes to 3/8" and used some rubber grommets with 1/4-20 bolts. I also used rubber-backed washers for the tank tabs. Here's the results:

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The biggest surprise was that the panel "warp" wasn't that bad...it was only about 1/4" where I chose my mounting holes. Also, the panel relieves the warp at the lower front bolt hole and there is enough distance to the nearest rivet so that it is not a big deal.

Now for the "bad" news: The lower sight window fitting leaked...it was a real "dribbler", so I'll ask how well the Lifetime warranty is on Tuesday :p As a backup, those fittings seem very commonly used for air suspensions, and Summit has some :cool:

Happy Building!

Craig C

[cc2Arider]

Hey Y'All,

Here's a follow-up on my warranty replacement parts from Mishimoto: No hassle, and delivered within days :)

This time, it appears the NPT threads have some sealant on the threads ready-to-go, and I made sure the sight tube was fully inserted into the "press to fit" fittings by feeling for the second "seat" pressure on the o-ring inside. Then, I tested by attempting to pull it apart -- good-n-solid!

Here's a picture:

225918

I still may swap the fill & overflow fittings with the sight tube (side-to-side)...and it is easy with this unit since the screw holes are identical :cool: This means, I'll need to get a 90deg 1/8NPT to 3/8" barb for the filler neck "T"...choices, choices.

Then, I'll replace the Evans Prep fluid with the "real" stuff...

Craig C

[cc2Arider]

Hey Y'All,

This past weekend was spent on other critical things, but I managed to get into the Garage for some things that needed "doin' " there, too :)

It's kinda interesting how Jeff posted about how these cars need to be respected, and I had independently double-checked my Accelerator Pedal linkage to confirm if I had a "soft" tip-in from idle as well as confirming how different pivot points and angles can impact what the engine "sees" when you depress the Accelerator pedal...

Here's my measurement setup (yes, pretty crude) :p Reminder that this is a RT-tribute styled AccPed with Forte' pivoting linkage...

225919

and here's the results (as measured with Pro-Flo4 system feedback)

225920

A few points to make: 1) measurement error is not too bad considering the crude setup. 2) my mockup well before-hand seems to have paid off in a very linear response. Note the 2nd-order curve-fit coefficient is VERY small. You can expect non-linear responses with all of the travel "arcs" at each pivot. I was hoping for a more "soft" tip-in, but a linear pedal response is very good, too. 3) a simple change of pivot point makes a lot of difference. The reduced "gain" for the longer-travel pedal is what I'll try to use. This was my initial design, anyway (but had doubts about effective heel-n-toeing). Now that I can measure what the Pro-Flo4 "sees", I think the heel-n-toe action is going to be fine...

For those interested in mimicking my set-up, the RT-style pivot assembly (made by Mountain Metal Works) is installed upside-down with the allen set screws accessible from the top of the footbox access panel (instead of through the footwell area).

Lastly, I started the mock-up of a "dead" pedal. This is VERY preliminary...but might give you inspiration to make something similar :)
225921

Until next time, Happy Building!

Craig C

[Blitzboy54]

Incredibly clean build Craig. Congrats on the first start and I love the dash.

[cc2Arider]

Thanks Jesse! I may reach out to you about your spoiler design :cool:

Craig C

[cc2Arider]

Hey Y'All,

After looking at my coolant overflow hose routing some more, I wanted to make it look more presentable :p

The surprise was that the overflow port from the filler neck was actually 1/16" NPT...kinda surprising how small it is...

So I got some fittings and tried them out. Here's what I decided on:
226255

I was happy with the distance to the upper radiator hose, so I routed the new overflow hose right next to it and held it in place with a couple of zip-ties. I like this routing much better than before
226256

The expansion/overflow tank's overflow hose got routed in front (and out of the way). Here, I zip-tied it to the unused sway bar bolt hole
226257

Then, I put the "sight tube" back on the other side of the tank, and it is easier to see the level now...and the fittings are working well
226258

Lastly, to prepare for my flush-n-fill of the Evans waterless coolant, I added the warning stickers to the fill caps
226259

And finally, since I can trust the Pro-Flo4 fuel pressure reading, I removed the mechanical fuel pressure gauge from the pressure regulator and plugged it with a fitting.
226260

Until next post, Happy Building!

Craig C

[cc2Arider]

Hey Y'All,

As a follow-up to an earlier post about checking the pedal ergonomics, I wanted to get some preliminary stuff out-of-the-way towards that goal. This weekend, I spent some time getting the Breeze inclined seat mount kit assembled...

The biggest stress was to NOT mess-up the seat upholstery by accidentally drilling thru it :rolleyes: Measure and center carefully, then get some backing material in-place, and it goes pretty well per the instructions...

holes drilled into the FFR seat frames:
226272

bolted onto the inclined mounts:
226273

Then: install the fiber-board seat pan. This required more modification from the as-delivered materials.

Mod1: the pre-drilled holes did not line-up with my seat frame rails...so, I just flipped them around and located/drilled my own :cool:
226275

Mod2: then I couldn't get the seat bottom cushion re-installed on (to my liking) with the new seat pan in place, so I trimmed 1/2" off the front to make it stick out only 3" from the front-most frame tube. This allowed me to fit the bottom cushion better without fear of tearing something. It still seems "taught" enough for eventual stretching and relaxing of the upholstery, so all good!
226276

Note: the inclined mounts are not drilled/riveted for final installation -- this is just a sanity check of the "likely" position to check for overall ergonomics. I'll locate/rivet the inclined mounts after the body is on...

Since I'm just checking the ergonomics, here's a check to see how well I can get the controls aligned with the shoulder harness locations
226274

Feels pretty good! :cool:

Until next time, Happy Building!

Craig C

[cc2Arider]

Hey Y'All,

Not much progress this week for me since I had more important affairs to attend to...but I did manage to take as much "slack" out of my Forte' hydraulic clutch system as possible (by adjusting the pushrod at the slave cylinder for 3/16" per recommendation from Mike) and then trimming my own clutch pedal stop to maximize the travel while keeping the overall ergonomics reasonable.

First picture though is the Wilwood clutch pedal pad trimmed down to give me more room laterally for my foot on the "dead" pedal that I'll be making soon :cool:
226512

Next picture is of my clutch pedal stop that I trimmed up a little to get me more overall clutch pedal travel
226513

Then, I maximized the effective "stroke" of the clutch pedal by backing out the adjuster at the top pivot point (pushrod adjuster) as I experimented with clutch engagement in 1st and reverse gears as the engine was running :cool:
This was the compromise height. I'd like it to be a bit lower, but this wasn't bad while "driving" the car in the garage...
226514

Here's another view of the overall arrangement
226515

Now that the clutch pedal height is reasonably set, I hope to make my new "dead" pedal and mount it to the footbox panel...I'll try to do that this week :D

Until then, Happy Building!

Craig C

[Highplainsdakota]

Great work!

I have the Forte clutch slave cylinder set up as well and I'm at this part. How did you "test the slack" in the hydraulic system to 3/16"? Just get under the car and try manually move the clutch fork back and forth? Where are you measuring the 3/16" Thanks again

[cc2Arider]

Great work!

I have the Forte clutch slave cylinder set up as well and I'm at this part. How did you "test the slack" in the hydraulic system to 3/16"? Just get under the car and try manually move the clutch fork back and forth? Where are you measuring the 3/16" Thanks again

I called Mike on this exact topic because his slave cylinder has an anti-rattle spring inside. This serves the intended purpose...but more importantly to you & I, makes the measurement a little more challenging because you have to manually push back the piston/rod assembly back into the cylinder until it seats. It doesn't take much effort, but it has to be done. If your master cylinder piston is truly at-rest (seated) then you should be able to do this without having to crack the bleeder open. Then just find a reference point for your measurements and allow the anti-rattle spring to push the rod assembly towards the clutch pressure plate until it makes contact. That is your 3/16" goal.

Thanks for watching my thread! Hope this helps :)

Craig C

[RobHartley]

I called Mike on this exact topic because his slave cylinder has an anti-rattle spring inside. This serves the intended purpose...but more importantly to you & I, makes the measurement a little more challenging because you have to manually push back the piston/rod assembly back into the cylinder until it seats. It doesn't take much effort, but it has to be done. If your master cylinder piston is truly at-rest (seated) then you should be able to do this without having to crack the bleeder open. Then just find a reference point for your measurements and allow the anti-rattle spring to push the rod assembly towards the clutch pressure plate until it makes contact. That is your 3/16" goal.

Thanks for watching my thread! Hope this helps :)

Craig C

Thanks for this Craig, I am a ways away from this stage, but have book marked these clutch adjustment posts for later use and I have Mike Forte's hydraulic clutch as well

[cc2Arider]

Hey Y'All,

I've been "noodling" on my Dead Pedal design and mounting options for several weeks now. The things that worry me are:
1) making sure I can install/remove the pedal without having to remove the body
2) building it "solid" enough to not move or flex in normal driving
3) not adding hardware on the outer side of the Driver's footbox panel since I don't know right now how much room I have. Ideally, I'd like to use some riv-bolts...but they protrude about 3/8" on the "blind side"...I'm not sure there is that much gap to the body :(
4) making sure I think about adjustment since I'm just trial-fitting it in the garage and not actually driving the car yet...

Here's my initial plan: fasten with "very high strength" adhesive-backed stick-on 1/4-20 x 3/4" bolts, and drill multiple mounting holes in the Al 90deg stock to provide fore-aft adjustment. I'm gonna try with a piece of 2x4x1/8" Al 90deg angle stock. With a spacing between the bolts of 1.125", I'll get 7 distinct adjustment positions spanning 2.25" for 3/8" separated holes

226809

Since my plan doesn't super-impose pedal mounting hardware with the existing rivet holes for my outer-panel "kickout" or "wedge", I finally rivetted the brackets. Here, I used 1/8" multi-grip SS since they "squish" so nicely. Looks good on the "blind" side, too :cool:

226810

Then, another mockup

226811

I'm glad I tried the mockup again. I didn't notice the slight "twist" in the panel once those "wedge" brackets were in-place. This means I'll need to use some spacers to account for the panel twist, or try something else. I'll have to think on this some more...

Craig C

[cc2Arider]

Hey Y'All,

Since I need a break from thinking about my Dead Pedal design, I thought I'd dig into something else on my mind lately: how to carpet the upper trunk sides without needing to get creative around the frame tubes

I originally planned to make some extra panels like the older FFR builds had...then just decided that it needed some foam "inserts" instead. This approach would also somewhat protect those existing side/front panels from damage if trunk items moved about under aggressive maneuvers...

I'm gonna try some film-covered polystyrene 3/4" thick foam pieces. I haven't figured out how to glue them yet, but contact cement is not an option for the sides since they need to be slid into place.

But first, I finally installed the cockpit back panel! I forgot how fast you need to work to final-rivet such a large panel before the silicone "skins" over...but no problems. I certainly made it more difficult since I used both black and silver silicone (black for frame contact / silver for panel-to-panel contact) :p

226813

Here's some initial fitting of the front panel and the lower "triangle" pieces for the sides

226814

I'll test-glue some scrap with clear Silicone this afternoon...then destruct test tomorrow :cool:

Until next time, Happy Building!

Craig C

[cc2Arider]

Hey Y'All,

I tested to breakage the clear silicone (when used as an EPS foam adhesive) and while it was OK, I wanted something a little stronger. I bought some EPS-specific spray adhesive by 3M, but got nervous about the chemicals in the shop air, so I decided to use that later...perhaps the bond between the carpet and the foam would still be a good choice. For now though, I decided to adhere the EPS foam to the upper trunk front & side panels with a urethane caulk-type adhesive, since I could take advantage of the tight fit within the spaces of the frame tubes to help hold it in-place, too.

With the plan in-place, here's how it went in:

prepped the panels(cleaned the panels and then caulked the cockpit back panel against the main cross frame tube)

227085

front foam installed

227086

since the front foam is at an angle that might cause movement while the adhesive cures, here's a simple clamp to hold them in-place

227087

Then cut-out and prepped the side panel foam pieces and glued them into place

227088

This now gives me a simpler "canvas" to apply the trunk carpet :cool: Of course, I'll still need to put down some thermal/sound padding, but that can wait for another time...

Craig C

[cc2Arider]

Hey Y'All,

Time for another mini-project: revisiting the bolt assembly design for the inner lap belts...

Some time ago, I posted about my design intention for the inner lap belt bolts. I didn't want to "pinch" the tunnel side panels into the belt mounting tabs, so I found some angled shims on the McMaster-Carr website. All was good until I decided to emulate Paul's seatbelt choice from his earlier builds. I liked that the Schroth belts had a "street" option which includes a visible red release button that an EMT could quickly figure out (in case I was in a wreck and incapacitated :confused: ). Seem to be nice quality pieces. They have the lap belts attached to their own bolt-bracket design, which unfortunately uses 7/16" bolt holes instead of 1/2".

This caused me to have to revisit my approach. I went back to McMaster-Carr and found some bronze bushings that were meant for 7/16" shafts. The outer diameter was 5/8" though...which meant I needed to "hog out" the transmission tunnel side panels...

Here's the tool setup I decided on (cordless drill with burr bit slightly larger than the shaft diameter)

227090

I simply held the shaft as true as possible to the mounting tab hole and made sure the "burr" was cutting the panel and not the mounting tab. The result, a reasonably-finished hole that accepted the 5/8" diameter bronze bushing

Here's the "new" assembly

227091

and here's what it looks like put together

227093

Essentially, the bushing holds the angled shims concentric with the panel hole and ultimately, to the mounting tab hole :cool: I'm pretty sure it is strong enough for the clamping load with the recommended 7/16" bolt torque values provided by Schroth...

Here's the assembly installed (cockpit view)

227094

and inside trans tunnel view

227095

That's all for me this weekend. I managed to get out on a Spring M/C ride for about an hour and returned refreshed!

Until next post, Happy Building :)

Craig C

[cc2Arider]

Hey Y'All,

I thought enough about my Dead Pedal design and strategy to get moving on it again...

Instead of fastening to the side of the footbox panel where it "kicked out", I simply moved the mounting location more forward to take advantage of the extra room there for riv-nuts (so that there is no interference with the body mounting). I didn't move the fastener location that far, though -- just to the area closest to the kick-out panel bracket. This way I could take advantage of the strength that the 3D shape permits. The "angle" of this panel bracket worked out well for my ergonomics, too...almost like FFR knew what they designed it for ... silly me :p

Anyway, here's where I took advantage of the existing rivet locations

227503

and then this confirms that there is still clearance to the body (when installed)

227504

Now, the not-so-good-news: I won't be able to unfasten the top-most bracket mounting screw (if I ever needed to do so after the footbox and body are installed). It is too close to the outer curved footbox frame tube...difficult to get a wrench in there. So...In order to accommodate different pedal heights, I'll just add spacers to the pedal "pad" screw locations :cool:

Here's a mockup

227505

This bracket, by itself, could have been "enough", but I wanted a "little extra", so I repurposed the Accel pedal pad and intend to make this a part of the design...I'll just have to get another one from Breeze :)

Here's the final bracket design. I'll get this powder-coated black

227506

and then a final-check fit

227507

I'm pretty happy with the results, but I would've liked the ability to take it apart easier after final assembly...oh well...

Until next time,
Happy Building!

Craig C

[cc2Arider]

Hey Y'All,

I just couldn't stand that my implementation of a Dead Pedal wasn't "serviceable"...so I finally had an epiphany! Change the fasteners...Duh :rolleyes:

I chose serrated flange heads for the bracket to panel. Now I can get a small wrench in there even when the panel is riveted together :)

Then, I chose "stand-offs" so that I only have to loosen the Torx screws on the front-side of the pads to remove or adjust the installed height :cool: Side-benefit, the flat-head design on the back-side also allows for more room near the curved frame tube ...

See pictures below

227698 227699 227700

I'm REALLY happy how this turned out! And, I checked the ergonomics again...feels good :cool:

Until next time, Happy Building...

Craig C

[cc2Arider]

Hey Y'All,

A quick order from Breeze and Mark hooked me up with another pedal pad. I have a "matched" set now :)

227799

All that's left in there is to get the brackets-n-things powder-coated and start on the thermal lining and carpet install...although I may start in the trunk area initially since it is easily accessible and I'm sure to make some mistakes :rolleyes:

Craig C

[cc2Arider]

Hey Y'All,

I got motivated to finally cut out the hole for the shifter in the trans top panel after reading a recent post by Brew... :D

Here's the rough cut

227800

followed by a confirmation measurement of the trim ring location so that I could mark/drill the holes for that

227801

then I added the low-profile riv-nuts and oval head fasteners to lock it into place

227802

which allowed me to get a final outline to trim up the hole better for the final upholstery work...which will occur later :p

227803

The trans tunnel top panel will be covered in one piece of foam-backed leather. If I'm feeling "frisky", I might consider adding a French seam along the sides with red thread...but that decision is much later. The shifter and hand brake will get their own leather "boots" sewn together longitudinally and fastened under the trim ring :cool:

It's slowly coming together!

Craig C

[cc2Arider]

Hey Y'All,

Very early in my build, I got inspired by creative minds on this very Forum. One inspiration was a way to access the transmission, driveshaft, and hand brake cables from the top-side. Another was to "hide" the fasteners for the trans top panel ... not really that important, but I thought it was a nice touch...so I came up with my own design :cool:

First, I needed a way to get to the driveshaft and hand-brake cables-n-things, so I made the back-angled piece to be pivoting along the back panel.

Here's the back angled panel fastener strategy

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This allowed me to fasten the rear-part of the trans top panel to that small pivoting panel...which meant I still needed a way to fasten the front-part of the trans top panel. The key for me was deciding that I wanted a center console. This permitted a mechanism to hold the front part of the top panel down without any obvious fasteners at work -- I just need to do a good job fitting the foam-backed leather properly. It will be a friction fit up front :cool:

227805

Here's how it is all supposed to work. I tried it with the Driver's seat in-place anyway :rolleyes:

Step1: move the shifter and handbrake levers back for more room to maneuver...

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Step2: unfasten the rear hinged panel and lift out-of-the-way

227807

Step3: slide back the top panel and then rotate to clear the center console (without removing the handbrake or shifter)

227808

Step4: lift up and out :)

I hope this inspires you to add your own creative/useful touches to your builds...Until next time, Happy Building!

Craig C

[PMD24]

Really nice work Craig. Like the way you tied the trim ring on the tunnel to what you did with the dash.

Pat

[cc2Arider]

Really nice work Craig. Like the way you tied the trim ring on the tunnel to what you did with the dash.

Pat

Thanks Pat for the kind words and encouragement :)

Craig C

[cc2Arider]

Hey Y'All,

After getting some parts ready for the Powder Coater, I didn't get much else "significant" done on my build this weekend :rolleyes:

"Slow-n-steady" progress being made, though. This post shows some miscellaneous upholstery prep that most of you have done...

First up: adding self-adhesive thermal padding to my drop trunk

228102

Then, I focused on the trans tunnel top panel...with top and bottom prepped

Bottom-side got an aluminized fiberglass self-adhesive pad

228103

Top-side got a self-adhesive 1/8" thick closed-cell foam pad

228104

and lastly, I ran out of time, but did manage to start on a template for the upper trunk floor

228105

I'm hoping I can use this for both the thermal pad and the carpeting :p

Until next time, Happy Building!

Craig C

[cc2Arider]

Hey Y'All,

This past weekend I spent prepping to wrap my console panel with leather...

First up, prepping the console metal and 1/16" thick closed-cell foam for Weldwood "landau top" spray adhesive, then adhering them together

228364

Then trimming out the shape before the second layer of foam goes on

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next, prepping for the second layer of adhesive and foam

228366

then, I trimmed up the second layer of foam to get ready for the leather itself

228367

and finally glued the leather to the outside of the console :)

228368

Next post: part 2

Craig C

[cc2Arider]

Hey Y'All,

I follow-up in this second post about wrapping my center console with upholstery leather...

Now the hard part -- purposefully trimming the edges to wrap around all the mounting flanges :eek:

This was the way I chose to do it...you may choose a different way...

I made a template of 45 deg and 60deg flange corners to work out the geometry and feel comfortable knowing why I needed to cut the profile properly...then I simply folded the leather over the flanges to get the actual first-level of angles involved

228376

Here's the first flange trimmed

228378

then a second example of the prep needed for trimming the leather for another flange

228379

then spending the rest of the afternoon repeating this process, I got done trimming the whole thing :p Whew -- that was a lot of work!!

228380

the whole thing kinda looks like a sea urchin with all the spikes and protuberances ;)

Hopefully, it will be worth it in the fitment and gluing that I'll do this coming week (in part 3)...then I'll have to make a pattern for the inside layer and repeat the process...it won't be as complicated, though!

Until next time,

Happy Building!

Craig C

[cc2Arider]

Hey Y'All,

This Weekend I spent working on my Console leather some more. I chose to work on gluing the leather onto the mounting flange inside surfaces in pairs so that I could control what I was doing better. I also used a big-box-store small container of Weldwood with a built-in brush for each of the flanges instead of spraying the glue. This meant it took me the better part of the Weekend to finish...details, details!

Here's a picture of the flanges wrapped on the inside with leather

228555

Then I made sure the leather covering all the screw holes was reamed out, and checked the fit onto the car again -- tight fit, but still fits :cool:

228556

I'll still need to wrap the inside of the Console with leather (which means cutting, folding, and gluing the material back behind the panel opening first) and eventually condition it...but that'll wait for next Weekend (when the adhesive fully cures...I hope) :)

Craig C

[cc2Arider]

Hey Y'All,

While I was literally waiting for glue to dry, I worked on finishing up the thermal pad installation in the trunk. I chose to only cover the floor...and I wanted to practice my technique on the large or awkward pieces, too, before working in the Cockpit. :p

Anyway, here's my template for a really large piece for the upper trunk floor...really only critical to locate the roll bar areas, but the overall piece is trapezoidal-shaped...so there's that. :rolleyes:

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Then after deliberating on how to wrangle such a large piece in without it shifting or bunching, installed

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I attempted to split the adhesive backing down the centerline and adhere the middle part...smoothing out towards the sides. Then I folded the back vertical edge down.

Lastly, I fitted several smaller pieces for the lower trunk floor and covered the flat and outside edge seams with aluminized tape. Here it is finished

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Until next time, Happy Building!

Craig C