Quick Wiring Question With Coyote/Aluminator

[DIBaledo]

Quick question... Wiring is something that I am not looking forward to, but I figure that if I plan everything out and follow the instructions from FFR and Ford Performance as well as the, what appears to be very clear commentary from Paul and others, it should be simply a matter of focus and pushing forward. My question involves the "order" of wiring. Can I wire all the necessary connections to the engine and fuel supply using the RF harness and Ford controls pack and start the engine before making all of the dash connections. My thought is that if I can get through the basic wiring to get the engine running, I can then tackle the dash wiring. I have a carbon fiber dash and I'd rather not do all the engine work with the dash in place and I plan to diet out some of the excess wires or shorten the wires so that the dash wiring is neat and "simple". Bottom line question - is it possible to do the engine management wiring before tackling the dash wiring? It would certainly make things easier for me and give me the confidence I need on the electronics to know I have the engine management working.

Thanks for any thoughts or comments.

David....

[Alan_C]

A good part of the dash wiring is connecting up the instruments. IMO, you want the instruments wired so that you have some feedback when the engine is running. Oil pressure is very important and having the tach working is another good indicator. You could make a hardboard copy of the dash for use while you sort out the wiring, but the LED indicators some use for turn signals and such are pretty much hard wired.

[edwardb]

X2. I would not recommend starting without oil pressure gauge as an absolute minimum. Ideally, also temp and tach.

[Railroad]

Mount your gauges in a sheet of cardboard. It will give you some practice and I think you will be glad you have them wired, when you fire up the engine.
My aluminator fired up so quick, I was shocked.
No spinning over, long cranking, etc. Hit the key and instant roar to life. I did have to tighten to fuel leaks when I turned key on to get fuel pressure.
Do the gauges and post how it's going.

[DIBaledo]

Thank you all for your advice. I'll be preparing a dash mockup on fiberboard or masonite. This way, I'll have the advantage of the gauges, etc. when starting and not risk any damage to the carbon fiber dash. Unfortunately, because of travel, I won't be able to do this until September/October, but I'll keep y'all informed of the outcome when I finally get to it.

Thanks again!

David....

[DIBaledo]

Mount your gauges in a sheet of cardboard. It will give you some practice and I think you will be glad you have them wired, when you fire up the engine.
My aluminator fired up so quick, I was shocked.
No spinning over, long cranking, etc. Hit the key and instant roar to life. I did have to tighten to fuel leaks when I turned key on to get fuel pressure.
Do the gauges and post how it's going.

Railroad,

Good to hear about your success with the Aluminator. I have the new A52XS, but I assume that other than the minor change in displacement, they are virtually identical. Was there anything special that you had to do for the Aluminator install? Any special wiring? From what I can see, i follow the coyote instructions, but with a mandatory tune.

David....

[Railroad]

My throttle body is oval, had to buy to 90* silicone reducer to get the MAF tube and filter on the engine.
No wiring, issues. Had to strip back the harness for O2 sensors to reach headers. Everything wired as instructions.
I put my power distribution box behind the dash. Do not know what I was thinking. I should have put it more accessible. No problems. I put the computer on a straight feed from the battery. It is powered all the time, but is on a dedicated disconnect switch.
The main battery feed is on a separate main disconnect. Buy a good name brand for both of these if you decided to go that route too.
I used the factory studs on the exhaust headers, after shortening them. I used all of them on the passenger side, and had to use 1 or 2 bolts on the rear of the drivers side. You will like the factory studs and nuts.
I put a resettable breaker between the battery power and the power distribution box. I guess you can see, I had a phobia of electrical melt down.
My fuel pump does not shut off with key on. Ford said normal for my engine. I did not get the inertia switch wired correctly. It does not shut off the fuel pump. I read something on a different wire in the fuse panel, but have not pursued.
Clutch safety and neutral switch not wired in. You can wire either through a toggle switch for a theft deterrent.
I am sure there were some other small items. Feel free to ask as needed, when you encounter anything.
With the high rpm, 8000 rpm, the Aluminator can spin, I put a shift light on it. It is an easy job.

[Al_C]

Please keep in mind that if you wire up a "temporary" dash - the mock up you referenced - you'll need to disconnect and reconnect everything that you did on the mock up. I swapped out my original dash and labeling and re-doing every wire was a PITA. In my opinion, the dashboard really isn't in your way while working on the engine. If I were to do another, I'd put it all in at once and be done with it. You could also pad the finished dash while working on the engine, etc. so you can minimize or eliminate the potential for damage. Foam or cardboard would do the trick. That way you have the benefit of a single mounting/connection activity with less risk. Just my 2 cents.

[JohnK]

I agree with Al. I'd skip the mockup and just wire up enough of the dash to have working gauges. Take a 2x6 and wrap it in a soft blanket and set it on the transmission tunnel. This makes an excellent work table for your dash as you're wiring it up. It's really not in the way of any engine work. You can temporarily set the dash in place for first start, and then set it back down and continue wiring.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=155222&d=1635913126

[DIBaledo]

My throttle body is oval, had to buy to 90* silicone reducer to get the MAF tube and filter on the engine.
No wiring, issues. Had to strip back the harness for O2 sensors to reach headers. Everything wired as instructions.
I put my power distribution box behind the dash. Do not know what I was thinking. I should have put it more accessible. No problems. I put the computer on a straight feed from the battery. It is powered all the time, but is on a dedicated disconnect switch.
The main battery feed is on a separate main disconnect. Buy a good name brand for both of these if you decided to go that route too.
I used the factory studs on the exhaust headers, after shortening them. I used all of them on the passenger side, and had to use 1 or 2 bolts on the rear of the drivers side. You will like the factory studs and nuts.
I put a resettable breaker between the battery power and the power distribution box. I guess you can see, I had a phobia of electrical melt down.
My fuel pump does not shut off with key on. Ford said normal for my engine. I did not get the inertia switch wired correctly. It does not shut off the fuel pump. I read something on a different wire in the fuse panel, but have not pursued.
Clutch safety and neutral switch not wired in. You can wire either through a toggle switch for a theft deterrent.
I am sure there were some other small items. Feel free to ask as needed, when you encounter anything.
With the high rpm, 8000 rpm, the Aluminator can spin, I put a shift light on it. It is an easy job.

Railroad,

Thanks for the information. I'm curious about using the factory studs for the headers. I have the Stage 8 locking bolts that I was planning on using in place of all the studs. Is there some advantage to using the studs? One concern I have is the potential of breaking a stud when I try to remove it, but I suspect it is easier to do all of them at the same time before the engine is installed. I agree with you on the electrical meltdown phobia. I have placed the power distribution box on top of the passenger footwell after a master disconnect and 250 amp fuse. I too have some questions about the clutch safety switch. The setup provided does not look like the most dependable setup; the first switch broke during my installation and I had to purchase an extra one. It also looks like it would be quite a chore to replace it once the body is on given the tight access space. I have always had manual transmission cars and I depress the clutch while starting out of habit. The idea of wiring the clutch safety switch to a toggle switch on the dash is an interesting possibility as a theft deterrent. My biggest concern with the Aluminator is learning to finesse the right foot; one aggressive push on the throttle and who knows where you'll end up. One last question, I'm using the T56 Magnum as well and the shift lever is currently in the rear most position. Does this location work without obstruction by the transmission tunnel crossmembers?

Thanks again.

David...

[DIBaledo]

I agree with Al. I'd skip the mockup and just wire up enough of the dash to have working gauges. Take a 2x6 and wrap it in a soft blanket and set it on the transmission tunnel. This makes an excellent work table for your dash as you're wiring it up. It's really not in the way of any engine work. You can temporarily set the dash in place for first start, and then set it back down and continue wiring.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=155222&d=1635913126

John,

Y'all make some good points. Now rethinking the mockup idea. Maybe place some high density foam on the carbon fiber to protect it. Quick question for you - I have the firewall forward which reduces engine space by about 1 1/2", but increases dash space for the wiring. Looking at your build with the coyote, it doesn't look like there is much space between the firewall and the back of the engine. It may be an optical illusion, but I haven't seen a good picture showing the actual distance between the engine and the firewall. Do you think I will have a problem with space using the firewall forward option? I'm not hanging the power distribution box on the firewall; I have it mounted on the passenger footwell. Only thing mounted on the firewall will be the fuel regulator, but I'm waiting to determine actual placement until the engine is installed.

David...

[Railroad]

I am sure the Stg 8 bolts are fine. The studs in the heads have a hex on the end, easy to remove. I think the factory nuts are steel lock. Your choice, both are fine. I was just really pleased with the studs to hang the gasket and headers on. I did have to buy a couple of bolts, where the stud clearance was not going to work.
I am with you on the clutch and switches. If you use the toggle switch, I put mine under the dash, steering column area.
185249
This photo might show you the firewall to engine clearance.
Without looking up the gear ratios of your trans and what axle gears you are using, my opinion is the Aluminator is soft on low end tq. I find it sort of flat below 2500 rpm. At 2500 rpm and up things do happen fast.
While still learning about the engine, I was going to roll into the throttle, from a stop, and was at 8K before I expected, hence my adding a shift light set at about 7200.
I am running a TKO 600 with 3.55 gears. I bought a complete rear with Torsen and 3.73 gears, to make up the low end tq, but have had second thoughts. My reflexes are not what they used to be and am not sure they were ever enough to handle 500+ hp in a short 2400 lb car.
I am running very sticky G-Force Rival tires and not encountered wheel spin or fish tailing on brisk acceleration. A lot of variables here.

[JohnK]

Firewall clearance should be OK. Here's a shot of my gen 2 coyote showing firewall clearance. If you don't have the PDB on the firewall, and you wait to install the fuel pressure regulator until you have the engine in, you should be fine.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=152613&d=1629842494

[DIBaledo]

I am sure the Stg 8 bolts are fine. The studs in the heads have a hex on the end, easy to remove. I think the factory nuts are steel lock. Your choice, both are fine. I was just really pleased with the studs to hang the gasket and headers on. I did have to buy a couple of bolts, where the stud clearance was not going to work.
I am with you on the clutch and switches. If you use the toggle switch, I put mine under the dash, steering column area.
185249
This photo might show you the firewall to engine clearance.
Without looking up the gear ratios of your trans and what axle gears you are using, my opinion is the Aluminator is soft on low end tq. I find it sort of flat below 2500 rpm. At 2500 rpm and up things do happen fast.
While still learning about the engine, I was going to roll into the throttle, from a stop, and was at 8K before I expected, hence my adding a shift light set at about 7200.
I am running a TKO 600 with 3.55 gears. I bought a complete rear with Torsen and 3.73 gears, to make up the low end tq, but have had second thoughts. My reflexes are not what they used to be and am not sure they were ever enough to handle 500+ hp in a short 2400 lb car.
I am running very sticky G-Force Rival tires and not encountered wheel spin or fish tailing on brisk acceleration. A lot of variables here.

Thanks for the insights. My kids always tell me they want to learn from their own mistakes when I give them the wisdom of my experience. I clearly don't agree, the experience of all of you who have already tackled these builds is my guiding light!

[DIBaledo]

Firewall clearance should be OK. Here's a shot of my gen 2 coyote showing firewall clearance. If you don't have the PDB on the firewall, and you wait to install the fuel pressure regulator until you have the engine in, you should be fine.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=152613&d=1629842494

John,

Looks like there should be enough room, but there is certainly a lot going on at the back of the engine.

David...