Clutch switch

[Daral]

I don't think I have the right bracket for my hydraulic clutch switch. The bracket that attaches to the wilwood hydraulic cylinder hits the bracket holding the switch before it gets to the plunger on the switch. It is not attached in the picture but you can see that the tab that should hit the plunger will hit the switch bracket first.
What have others done to setup this switch? Can I just bypass it by permanently pushing in the plunger?

[edwardb]

I can't explain why the combination of parts you have interferes like that. Both of my Coyote builds were before Factory Five was providing those parts. So made my own and (obviously :p) made them so they didn't interfere. I would send your picture to Factory Five and ask them. Unless someone on here has experience with the parts. But don't bypass the switch. That's a safety item and prevents the engine from cranking and starting unless the clutch is pushed down. You'll get different opinions. But I strongly support leaving it so it works as intended. Just sort out the mounting.

[Indy Shu]

184896

I don’t know if this helps or not but this is on my coupe and a little different shape.

[Ted G]

I chose to eliminate this switch. Getting in the car just to start it seemed like too much work. I do, however have a neutral safety switch for obvious reasons.

[dbo_texas]

I used a different bracket because my kit didn't come with the one you have. I used the bracket used with the clutch quadrant for mechanical clutch and just modified it to mount to the clevis.
DETAILS (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?40632-ATX-MKIV-9644-Coyote-Build-Thread-(Index-Post-1)&p=511967&viewfull=1#post511967)

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=176953&d=1671469115

[Daral]

184896

I don’t know if this helps or not but this is on my coupe and a little different shape.

Your brackets are different than mine but yours look exactly like the ones in the roadster manual. The bracket I have that holds the switch doesn't even line up with the bolts on the car. I sent an email to FFR with the picture of what I have. Hopefully they will have what I need. If not, I may need to make or modify both brackets to make it work.

[edwardb]

FWIW, remembered I had this picture of the switch in my Coupe build. Same Wilwood pedal box as yours and same Coyote control pack switch with a hydraulic clutch. The switch bracket came in the Coyote completion kit from Factory Five. The bracket on the MC I made because at the time they only provided a piece for the mechanical clutch. It's an easy enough part to make if it comes to that.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=95478&d=1539379797

[Lidodrip]

Your bracket looks different than the bracket I received from FFR in 2021. Below is the best picture I have.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=184905&d=1685025544

As Paul mentions, it would be straightforward to make one if needed

James

[Daral]

I have been emailing FFR but they have not been very helpful. I may need to make the bracket that you have James. The one Paul shows is similar to what FFR sent me. It hits the switch bracket before it gets to the switch. Thanks for the pictures. They confirm I have the wrong parts.

[Daral]

For those of you that have followed this, I did get a response from FFR. The Coyote manual I was using had the old version of this switch. Here is what FFR sent me. The switch mounts I got in my kit attach differently.
185285

[dbo_texas]

For those of you that have followed this, I did get a response from FFR. The Coyote manual I was using had the old version of this switch. Here is what FFR sent me. The switch mounts I got in my kit attach differently.
185285

Interesting - I hadn't seen this before. Thanks for posting.

[MB750]

Is this clutch switch a Coyote thing? Because my clutch doesn't look anything like that, and it mounts under the footbox just like the brake switch.

[edwardb]

Is this clutch switch a Coyote thing? Because my clutch doesn't look anything like that, and it mounts under the footbox just like the brake switch.

Coyote only. Part of the Ford Performance control pack. Replaces the FFR stock clutch switch you mention.

[MB750]

Coyote only. Part of the Ford Performance control pack. Replaces the FFR stock clutch switch you mention.

Is there a part number for that switch so I could source it myself? I like that switch function more than the FFR supplied one. With mine, I can have the clutch pressed 25% of the sweep and the switch contacts change state even though the clutch isn't fully disengaged yet.

[JohnK]

My controls pack instruction manual for my gen 2 coyote references the following:

Clutch Pedal Position Switch: Bottom Travel (CBT) - 6G9Z-11A152-A (https://www.tascaparts.com/oem-parts/ford-clutch-switch-6g9z11a152a)

[edwardb]

Is there a part number for that switch so I could source it myself? I like that switch function more than the FFR supplied one. With mine, I can have the clutch pressed 25% of the sweep and the switch contacts change state even though the clutch isn't fully disengaged yet.

The Ford Performance instructions list it as Ford part number 6G9Z-11A152-A. Looks to be widely available. I agree with you about the limited safety aspect of the stock switch setup.

Edit: JohnK types faster than me. Maybe if I left off the editorial opinion... :p

[MB750]

Thanks for the legwork fellas, I appreciate it.

[MB750]

Thanks for the inspiration, I made it work with what I have. I know the switch was cheap, but finding the connector would have taken longer than it did to fabricate these brackets:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=185680&d=1686529838

[jts359]

I have had several cars that did not have a clutch switch and when I rewired our MKII that switch was history , I found it to be a PIA while working on the car , Ed

[DIBaledo]

When I first installed the clutch switch, it stuck in the closed position when I first tested it. I took it to the local Ford dealer and they said it was a defective switch so I purchased a replacement (about $35). Now, I'm starting to question whether I want to use this switch at all if it is prone to failure - maybe I was lucky and received the only defective switch, but it looks like it would not be an easy thing to replace once the body is on and everything is installed in the driver's side footbox. Additionally, since the switch failed in the closed position, I wouldn't even realize there was a failure unless I tried to start the motor without depressing the clutch. My planned solution is to wire the clutch switch wires from the Coyote controls pack an on/off switch on or below the dashboard that would require activating before starting. A previous comment from Railroad on this subject also indicated that it is a simple theft deterrent since any potential thief would try to start the car, but nothing would happen. This partially bypasses the purpose of the switch, but it will still be a reminder to me to depress the clutch first while starting, which by the way is already a well ingrained habit. I may be overly concerned about the reliability and replacement of the switch, but this seems like a simple, practical solution. Any thoughts?

David....

[MB750]

That's a good point about the switch location. If mine ever fails, the wires are getting jumpered together.

[edwardb]

When I first installed the clutch switch, it stuck in the closed position when I first tested it. I took it to the local Ford dealer and they said it was a defective switch so I purchased a replacement (about $35). Now, I'm starting to question whether I want to use this switch at all if it is prone to failure - maybe I was lucky and received the only defective switch, but it looks like it would not be an easy thing to replace once the body is on and everything is installed in the driver's side footbox. Additionally, since the switch failed in the closed position, I wouldn't even realize there was a failure unless I tried to start the motor without depressing the clutch. My planned solution is to wire the clutch switch wires from the Coyote controls pack an on/off switch on or below the dashboard that would require activating before starting. A previous comment from Railroad on this subject also indicated that it is a simple theft deterrent since any potential thief would try to start the car, but nothing would happen. This partially bypasses the purpose of the switch, but it will still be a reminder to me to depress the clutch first while starting, which by the way is already a well ingrained habit. I may be overly concerned about the reliability and replacement of the switch, but this seems like a simple, practical solution. Any thoughts?

David....

Have done two Coyote builds. One driven three years before selling. My Coupe with the Gen 3 Coyote is in its fourth driving season. Zero issues with the Ford provided clutch switch. It's an OE switch that's designed for years of use. Sure, anything can fail. But I wouldn't consider the switch a reliability concern. As far as wiring a switch to be a "theft deterrent" this subject IMO is overplayed. More often then not by first time builders who understandably are concerned about having their build in public. In the unlikely event someone targets your car to steal, it's likely going to pulled onto a flatbed. Starting is not required. But even that is extremely rare. The chances of someone getting into your car, being unable to start it because of a hidden switch or whatever, is too low IMO to inconvenience yourself in any way for daily use. Your regular ignition switch is enough to do the job. In now 12 years of driving different FF models, and a ton of events, shows, etc. zero instances of anyone getting into the car(s) and trying to start or whatever. And I don't expect any.

Personally, for me the clutch switch is more about my own personal safety and absentmindedness. Our other two cars are automatics. So I appreciate the added reminder that I have to push the clutch all the way down to the stop (that's how I have it adjusted) in order for our Coupe to start. An alternative, if you don't want an interlock that requires you to be in the seat, is to use the transmission neutral switch. Typically, the transmissions we use have that switch and it's a good alternative. Unintended acceleration accidents (e.g. starting with the car in gear and clutch engaged) are dangerous and can do a lot of damage. Make it so it's not possible but not inconvenient.

[DIBaledo]

Paul,

I admit that I'm on the fence on this and my knowledge is based exclusively on the one switch I had that failed and Ford confirmed was defective. It's not a question of convenience in starting or theft deterrence (that's just a potential benefit raised by others). Rather, my, perhaps, isolated experience tells me to look for a different solution for a known failure. Your experience with reliability of the switch is an indication that it should not be a problem and maybe I was just lucky enough to get the one rotten apple that got through Ford's QC. I'll probably wire it up as the instructions show, but make provisions for an easy changeover if it does fail in the future.

David....

[JohnK]

Just my $.02 on this. I'm sure it doesn't feel good when you're the one that the failure happened to but FWIW this is the first failure I've heard of with the Ford clutch switch. OTOH, more than one person has had issues with the generic brake/clutch switches that come with the kit. If it were me, I'd stick with the Ford switch for the clutch. Now, if you were perhaps considering replacing the kit-supplied brake switch with a real AC Delco switch I wouldn't fault you.