Most frequent cause/location of fires on roadster?

[JohnK]

Those of you that have been around the block a few times here have probably seen more than one burned roadster. I'm wondering if there is a "typical" or "most common" source/location of fires on these cars? I'm thinking of installing an automatically actuated Safecraft fire suppression system. The Model AT (https://safecraft.com/product/model-at/) has a single head, while the Model LM (https://safecraft.com/product/model-lm/) has dual sensor heads. I think the cylinder itself would fit mounted horizontally on the top of the passenger footbox. If I went with the single head, I'd probably put the head at the firewall at the rear of the engine, where the fuel pressure regulator and coyote PDB are. If I went with two sensors I'd probably mount them at the two rear corners of the engine. But what do I know?! You may very well tell me that most fires start with fuel leaks at the tank. :p

Thoughts?

FWIW - I also have a 5# Halotron extinguisher mounted between the seats, but that's only intended to give me enough time to undo harnesses and get me/passenger out of the car safely vs. trying to minimize damage to the car itself.

[Jeff Kleiner]

A lot of cars have burned because of underhood fuel pressure gauges. The diaphragm ruptures and allows pressurized fuel to spray on a hot engine. They're a diagnostic and setup tool that should NEVER be left in place...after your fuel pressure is set remove the gauge and plug the port.

Jeff

[cob427sc]

I would guess that most are caused by a gas leak on a hot engine, either a fuel line leak or a flooding carb ( don't ask how I know). I also have seen engine fires on injected engines by fuel line failure, usually at a fitting. The fire suppression system is a great idea but general maintainence and review of the typical fuel lines goes a long way to fire prevention. Leaks in the rear or along the fuel lines aren't quite as bad as you don't have the heat source for ignition.

[toadster]

A lot of cars have burned because of underhood fuel pressure gauges. The diaphragm ruptures and allows pressurized fuel to spray on a hot engine. They're a diagnostic and setup tool that should NEVER be left in place...after your fuel pressure is set remove the gauge and plug the port.

Jeff

interesting! I wasn't aware you could remove the gauge without spilling gas... good tip!

[Kbl7td]

Pretty good reason why you shouldn’t place your regulator in the engine bay which I see on countless builds. Leave it by the tank, there’s no need to adjust pressure once it’s set.

[toadster]

Pretty good reason why you shouldn’t place your regulator in the engine bay which I see on countless builds. Leave it by the tank, there’s no need to adjust pressure once it’s set.

that sounds like a good idea, I wonder why FFR recommends placing it on the firewall in the build guides?

[Fman]

interesting! I wasn't aware you could remove the gauge without spilling gas... good tip!

I actually just removed my gauge yesterday and very little fuel dumps out. Takes a 1/8" NPT plug to seal it up. It was on my to-do list for awhile, I am glad I read this thread and got reminded it needed to be done!

Thanks Jeff for the reminder :)

[OSU Cowboy]

Going to check my hardware stock right now to see if I have a plug. If not, going to drop by my local NAPA store to pick one up.

Thanks Jeff.

[Nigel Allen]

Poor quality battery chargers left unattended are responsible for many fires every year in Australia.

[runamuk]

I saw one that was repaired after catching fire. The battery switch was installed with nothing covering the cable ends, and something broke which shorted out the cable and the entire firewall, windshield, body and rear of the engine burned up. Always cover your terminal ends with a rubber boot and fuse the positive cables.

[edwardb]

Pretty good reason why you shouldn’t place your regulator in the engine bay which I see on countless builds. Leave it by the tank, there’s no need to adjust pressure once it’s set.


that sounds like a good idea, I wonder why FFR recommends placing it on the firewall in the build guides?

There's no risk to having the regulator in the engine compartment. Assuming the right connections and properly assembled. Which should be the case in any installation. Agreed the gauge should be removed and plugged after initial setup and shakedown runs. I too have found it doesn't change so no reason to leave the gauge long term. Mounting the regulator near the tank is also a good alternative. I've done that too. Mainly because it eliminates having to run the return line from the engine compartment. But not necessarily for safety reasons.

[RBachman]

My first thought is also fuel-leak fires. But the only vehicle I ever had actually catch fire was due to oil pan leaking onto a hot exhaust. Although, an argument between a faulty ignition switch that would short to "ON" when parked and what I believe was an EFI pressure sensor/regulator failure dumped 5 gallons of fuel over my engine and onto the garage floor. (Huge thanks to Mike Forte' for answering his cell on the 4th of July a few years ago and talking me through the diagnostics to find and then correct the problems.)

[Fman]

A master disconnect is always a good idea, when the car is parked cutting off power to everything helps. At least it gives you some peace of mind.

[JohnnyB]

A master disconnect is always a good idea, when the car is parked cutting off power to everything helps. At least it gives you some peace of mind.
Good Point. The alternators in Fox Body Mustang donors are notorious for spontaneously combusting when the terminals get loose or corrode. John Phillips lost his car and nearly lost his house when his first car caught fire in the garage. At a minimum replace the alternator connector and USE the battery disconnect switch. Better yet replace the alternator with a 3G alternator.