View Full Version : A little help please, oil and filter
yahrt
05-24-2023, 05:16 PM
I moved in Fall and 95% of my possessions are still in deep storage including all of my build notes. I need to change the oil in my Blueprint 347 (from Forte). I should remember but I don't. What type of oil and filter do I need? Thanks
65 Cobra Dude
05-24-2023, 05:43 PM
Typically FL1-A or equivalent.
drewr
05-24-2023, 06:06 PM
Its a small block Ford Windsor, just like every Fox body Mustang GT from 1982-1993. You can google the filter size and Ford oil recs. I think its 10W30.
dave10450
05-25-2023, 08:20 AM
I also have a 347 Blueprint engine and I use Wix oil filter 51515. Under $8 from Amazon. For oil I use 10w30 Pennzoil Conventional.
BPE shipped my 347 with an FL-300 Motocraft filter. I use Mobile-1 5W30 oil.
Mike.Bray
05-25-2023, 09:24 AM
FWIW, if you're going to have a high performance (expensive) pushrod engine that gets driven occasionally you definitely do not want to skimp on the oil and filter. Most name brand oils you buy at the local auto parts store aren't what they used to be, even the synthetics. You want something like this (https://www.summitracing.com/parts/jgr-01506) with high zinc content.
Same with filters. Fram has a big name but are pure junk. Wix are good, I used a K&N on my 351W.
I was told by my engine builder to not run synthetic only conventional oil, he recommended Lucas HotRod 10w40/30 weight. I found it on Amazon for a decent price. He also recommended to only use Wix filters. I have been doing 1500-2000 mile oil changes, definitely overkill but it basically is annual oil changes on this car.
https://www.amazon.com/Lucas-Oil-LUC10683-10W-40-Petroleum/dp/B009M64CUM/ref=sr_1_6?crid=17LR37G0XWESA&keywords=Lucas+10w40+engine+oil&qid=1685025520&sprefix=lucas+10w40+engine+oil%2Caps%2C149&sr=8-6
BPE said no synthetic for break in, but okay after that. I also send samples to Blackstone Labs with each oil change. So far, everything looks nominal in their analysis.
Mike.Bray
05-25-2023, 01:31 PM
BPE said no synthetic for break in, but okay after that.
Definitely do not run synthetic for break in, use something like this (https://www.summitracing.com/parts/cca-1590). For a little added insurance I used an additive (https://www.summitracing.com/parts/cca-159).
I can't imagine an engine builder saying not to run a synthetic oil after break in, synthetics are just so much better in every way over conventional mineral oils. That seems like a strange recommendation.
Railroad
05-25-2023, 02:59 PM
https://www.speedwaymotors.com/the-toolbox/zddp-content-chart-high-zinc-oil-list-brand-breakdown/32479
FF33rod
05-25-2023, 04:13 PM
Local Engine shop highly recommended Driven Hot Rod oil for older push rod engines (e.g. my 347).
I use HR5 which is the 10W40
https://drivenracingoil.com/i-30497806-hr5-10w-40-conventional-hot-rod-oil.html
Steve
Definitely do not run synthetic for break in, use something like this (https://www.summitracing.com/parts/cca-1590). For a little added insurance I used an additive (https://www.summitracing.com/parts/cca-159).
I can't imagine an engine builder saying not to run a synthetic oil after break in, synthetics are just so much better in every way over conventional mineral oils. That seems like a strange recommendation.
Mike, I have to honor his 30 years of engine building and go with what he recommends. So far after 5200 miles of driving the engine has been spot on. I always thought synthetics were for newer engines (Coyote). I did just sell my 2008 Altima with 290k miles on it, I was original owner and only ran conventional in it with 5k mile oil changes. Car never burned a drop of oil. I run synthetic in my 2014 5.7L Tundra per manufacturer recommendation.
I think oil preference is like talking politics :cool: I am sure there are pro's and con's to both.
Mike.Bray
05-26-2023, 09:45 AM
Mike, I have to honor his 30 years of engine building and go with what he recommends. So far after 5200 miles of driving the engine has been spot on. I always thought synthetics were for newer engines (Coyote). I did just sell my 2008 Altima with 290k miles on it, I was original owner and only ran conventional in it with 5k mile oil changes. Car never burned a drop of oil. I run synthetic in my 2014 5.7L Tundra per manufacturer recommendation.
I think oil preference is like talking politics :cool: I am sure there are pro's and con's to both.
I think you'll find someone promoting mineral oil over synthetics for a high performance engine of any kind is a lone wolf these days. Has he ever said why? From a molecular point of view there is just no comparison. The reason you don't want to run synthetics during break in is they are "too slick" and the rings will never seat. But after the rings are seated I want the good stuff.
So here's some interesting information for you. If you look at most oils at your local auto parts store, mineral or synthetic, you will see "API" on the bottle. American Petroleum Institute. What this wonderful organization has been doing over the past few years is lowering the zinc content along with other important additives in engine oils to help with catalytic converter life, read emission control. You can see in the link Railroad posted the zinc content for various oils listed. When you take a pushrod V8 designed in the 60s for 190 HP and bore & stroke it and have it making 400-600 HP you better have good lubrication with lots of zinc.
I was over at Shelby Garage/Classic Restorations yesterday and noticed they only use Driven oil. These guys build Mustangs and Cobras that range from $200K to over a million dollars. Just an observation.
One last note, search for Lake Speed Jr on YouTube if you really want to learn about engine oils. This guy has probably forgotten more about oil than any of us will ever know. He's got some very interesting videos out there.
Happy motoring!
Ted G
05-26-2023, 09:51 AM
All I know is that my break-in oil is working great thus far! I just want to know how long should I run break-in oil for? I have about 100 miles in go-cart stage and am going to change the oil this weekend with break-in again (since I originally bought 12 quarts). Curious to see if I find anything in the oil. My plan is to run this oil for about 500 miles.
rich grsc
05-26-2023, 11:00 AM
When you bought your brand new car from the dealer, did you change the oil at 100 miles, 500 miles??
All I know is that my break-in oil is working great thus far! I just want to know how long should I run break-in oil for? I have about 100 miles in go-cart stage and am going to change the oil this weekend with break-in again (since I originally bought 12 quarts). Curious to see if I find anything in the oil. My plan is to run this oil for about 500 miles.
I did mine at 50 and 500, and now about every 1500 miles. I did the 50 because I wanted any assembly engine lubes to be flushed out. Overkill but for what I invested in the engine I figured it was a good $50 investment. At the 50 change forward I starting running the Lucas Hot Rod 10w40 w/zinc.
Mike.Bray
05-26-2023, 02:15 PM
All I know is that my break-in oil is working great thus far! I just want to know how long should I run break-in oil for? I have about 100 miles in go-cart stage and am going to change the oil this weekend with break-in again (since I originally bought 12 quarts). Curious to see if I find anything in the oil. My plan is to run this oil for about 500 miles.
500 miles and change it for more break in oil or good quality mineral oil w/zinc. Do not switch to synthetic until at least 2000 miles. If the rings aren't fully seated and you go to synthetic it's a giant pain to get them to break in at that point.
Ted G
05-26-2023, 03:13 PM
When you bought your brand new car from the dealer, did you change the oil at 100 miles, 500 miles??
No, but my Jeep 3.6 motor doesn't have 500+ HP nor did I put part of it together. Plus it has a full warranty.
RBachman
05-27-2023, 10:52 AM
A number of manufacturers use synthetics for their high performance vehicles. A google search came up with these manufacturers as using synthetics: Bentley, Cadillac, Chevrolet Corvette, Ferrari, Mercedes-AMG, Nissan and Porsche.
Norm B
05-27-2023, 12:39 PM
Flat tappet camshafts require high zinc oil. Roller camshaft engines don’t. There is no benefit to running high zinc oil in them. If you have cats or a fuel injection system you should avoid high zinc oil or zinc additives. They plug cats and reduce the life of O2 sensors.
Mike.Bray
05-27-2023, 03:44 PM
Flat tappet camshafts require high zinc oil. Roller camshaft engines don’t. There is no benefit to running high zinc oil in them. If you have cats or a fuel injection system you should avoid high zinc oil or zinc additives. They plug cats and reduce the life of O2 sensors.
That's interesting, I've never heard that other than for cats. Do you have a source or more information on this? I'm very interested in learning more.
Mike.Bray
05-27-2023, 03:55 PM
A number of manufacturers use synthetics for their high performance vehicles. A google search came up with these manufacturers as using synthetics: Bentley, Cadillac, Chevrolet Corvette, Ferrari, Mercedes-AMG, Nissan and Porsche.
My mother has had a couple of VW Jettas with turbos (and I wonder where I get it). They came from the factory with synthetic oil and a 10k oil change schedule. In fact if you take it to the VW dealer for an oil change with less than 10k miles they won't change it.