Build/design for serviceability tips including things you learned the hard way LOL.

[narly1]

I'm all about planning ahead and making anything that I create as easy as possible to fix later.

Post your ideas/tips up here, even if they have basis in unfortunate experience, LOL.

Thanks,

Earl

[egchewy79]

No issues yet (fingers crossed) but I made my dash and trans top removable, enlarged the access panel for my fuel pump hanger, installed fuel filter in an accessible location ( almost put the screw on the clamp facing up instead of down).

[Ducky2009]

Create a file of all part numbers used, and replacement part numbers other people ask/answer about. Include where you purchased them from.

[Wayne r mckee]

Double check everything the dmv inputs on your registration, the person that input all my data at the desk used the factory five serial number as the vin # instead of the chp issued vin # screwed up everything, cost me many weeks of waiting and resubmitting my paperwork .

[Alan_C]

There are certain panels I would recommend you make removable. In my MK4, I made the transmission tunnel cover and the front wheel well splash guards removable. In order to remove/replace the windshield, the splash guards must be removed. I installed rivnuts and screws in place of rivets. I also made the fuel tank access panels removable as well. Many add a access panel in the top of the drivers footbox. I liked the Breeze upper and lower radiator mounts. If you ever need to remove, repair, or replace the radiator. Also look at making the dash panel removable. I had gauge and sender issues with a couple of my instruments and being able to drop down the dash panel made trouble shooting easier.
I would suggest if a riveted panel is blocking access to something that you may need to get at in the future, make the panel removeable. It beats drilling out and reinstalling rivets.

[GoDadGo]

Alan_C made great points about serviceability & removable panels.

On the Redbone Roadster the following are all removable and all use the same fastener & same tool:

1. Dashboard
2. Stereo & Switch Panel
3. Transmission Tunnel Top
4. Dog House Access Panel
5. Slave Cylinder Access Panel
6. Fuel Tank Sending & Pickup Panels
7. Stereo Speakers.
8. Header Footbox Heat Shields
9. Heater Core / Passenger Footbox For Mrs. Go-Dad's feet.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/album.php?albumid=982&attachmentid=52730

The car also sports Mustang Front Brakes and Explorer Rear Brakes which makes sourcing those parts very. I also moved the fuse panel to the passenger side of the car to keep it dry and to make the the drivers foot box clean and uncluttered.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/album.php?albumid=977&attachmentid=51762

The engine got moved forward 6" to clear the distributor (All Dart SBC Style Engine) which also allowed me to use IMSA Modified Adjustable Dirt Track Headers which are still stupid are cheap to buy.

Stupid Cheap Headers <> Schoenfeld #161-33 for SBC <> $259.95 current price

[lance corsi]

I put my fuse panel just below the windshield and covered it with a removable panel on the top of the dashboard. The bulk of my fasteners are 10-32 Phillips head screws. This helps reduce the number of tools that I need to carry on road trips.

[narly1]

Using a common hardware size/type in as many places as possible is a great idea, as is making items that will or might need service easily accessible.

Earl

[RoadRacer]

I have an Evernote page on my phone that I keep notes in. Goes back through the build but is especially handy now I’m on the road a couple years. Has a list of all components I’ve used, eg 2002 mustang gt rear 3.27 10.5 disc, oil filter 51060 (51069 in pinch), plug gaps, torques used, date mileage when oil change, pads changed etc.. ratios in gearbox, alignments done, suspension tuning and results..

It’s a long growing list but it’s always with me and has been extremely useful!

[narly1]

I have an Evernote page on my phone.....

The way I see it is that every build is unique so you owe it to yourself to document the hell out of your project.

There is also the side-benefit of the value it adds when the day to sell comes. The next owner will appreciate your effort!

Earl

[Alan_C]

Agreed on having a maintenance parts list. I had put one together on my build, everything from oil filter, plugs, down to brake pads. It just makes it easier to maintain your car and good for the next owner if you pass it on.
When I sold my car, I provided two CDs full of build pictures and even pics from a few Factory Five gatherings. These things have value, especially to someone who buys your car they are invaluable references.

[Jeff Kleiner]

There are certain panels I would recommend you make removable. In my MK4, I made the transmission tunnel cover and the front wheel well splash guards removable. In order to remove/replace the windshield, the splash guards must be removed. I installed rivnuts and screws in place of rivets. I also made the fuel tank access panels removable as well. Many add a access panel in the top of the drivers footbox. I liked the Breeze upper and lower radiator mounts. If you ever need to remove, repair, or replace the radiator. Also look at making the dash panel removable. I had gauge and sender issues with a couple of my instruments and being able to drop down the dash panel made trouble shooting easier.
I would suggest if a riveted panel is blocking access to something that you may need to get at in the future, make the panel removeable. It beats drilling out and reinstalling rivets.

The caveat: If you're going to use rivnuts be sure that you are using the correct size for the material they're going into and make sure that you're getting them seated tightly and properly. Also if you're using stainless screws always, always use anti seize on them. I get cars in for paint and have to tear them all down...you wouldn't believe how often the inserts were not properly seated and spin when attempting disassembly or screws were installed dry and gall in the insert. I probably have to cut at least one, but usually more, off of 80% of the cars that come in with the darn things in splash panels, nose aluminum, etc. It's a whole lot easier to simply drill out rivets!

Jeff

[egchewy79]

The caveat: If you're going to use rivnuts be sure that you are using the correct size for the material they're going into and make sure that you're getting them seated tightly and properly. Also if you're using stainless screws always, always use anti seize on them. I get cars in for paint and have to tear them all down...you wouldn't believe how often the inserts were not properly seated and spin when attempting disassembly or screws were installed dry and gall in the insert. I probably have to cut at least one, but usually more, off of 80% of the cars that come in with the darn things in splash panels, nose aluminum, etc. It's a whole lot easier to simply drill out rivets!

Jeff

hopefully you're not referring to my car :)

[Alan_C]

Yes Jeff, all of my rivnuts were purchased from McMaster Carr and in many cases I purchased sizes for both thin and thicker walled materials based upon the application.
I am a retired engineer and understand the correct part for the material thickness, but then again maybe some here do not.

[RBachman]

Make sure you know where (and mark) fuses and relays not contained within the fuse panel. Place tubing/hoses/wires where they are not exposed to getting snagged or pulled on, and away from heat sources and sharp edges. I also added a fuel pressure gauge after issues with a fuel pump and a fussy EFI.

[michael everson]

What Jeff said.
Mike