Miami GenV LT1 Build

[Kbl7td]

Well after delaying my car 6 months, I finally pulled the trigger on the first few pieces…

Gen V LT1/TR6060
IRS 3.55 Cast Iron Diff
Saturn Vue Electric Power Steering
Holley Terminator X with Touchscreen
Coach Controls Wiring


The usual other stuff like stereo, AC, windows etc. Plan to do lot of custom body mods. The car is slated to land in July, I will slowly gather parts in the mean time.

I debated a long time on whether to go with a Torsen 3.73 or clutch type. In the end this engine just has so much torque with the VVT that 3.55 made more sense for cruising speeds on the highway. This rear end came out of a manual 3.55 car with a claimed 80k miles, which is really hard to believe with how clean it is. I took all the needed parts off and will be sandblasting, painting and new seals soon.
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These small photos drives me nuts in threads. I assume the only way to post full size in the thread is to use the [IMG] code with a link to a 3rd party website?

[460.465USMC]

Hello. Sounds like you are putting together plans on a very custom build. I look forward to following along. Welcome!

As far as getting full size pictures in your posts, the forum provides a way to do this--see the instructions here: https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?18962-How-to-use-the-Image-Gallery-to-embed-pictures-in-posts. It's handy to use a photo resizer before uploading to your album, so the pictures load faster. For example, I use a very simple (and free) program called PhotoResizeXXXX.exe. Substitute the XXXX with the resolution of your choice. I use 2000, which provides good detail, but still provides fast loading of the photos. You can Google Photo Resize to find it, and other free programs similar.

[JimStone]

I too look forward to following your build.

I'm curious what made you want to go with the LT1 instead of LS3-based engines which have more support from Factory Five. Maybe it's all the same installation parts (motor mounts, driveshaft, headers, etc), I haven't researched the LT1.

[1965daytona]

Hi Kbl7td,
Congratulations! I am in Miami and have a Gen 2 type 65 coupe. Give me a call at your convenience, 305-505-0463.
Herb

[Kbl7td]

I too look forward to following your build.

I'm curious what made you want to go with the LT1 instead of LS3-based engines which have more support from Factory Five. Maybe it's all the same installation parts (motor mounts, driveshaft, headers, etc), I haven't researched the LT1.

Right now used prices of LS and LT are about the same. About the same weight and size. Main difference is no one wants to mess with the direct injection or the VVT on the LT. The ECU is also a little more costly. But the low end torque is what I’m after. I used to have a base C7 that was tuned, the thing was insane. I’m not too worried about having to shift the mounts around etc. I know I’ll have to move some stuff.

[Kbl7td]

Hi Kbl7td,
Congratulations! I am in Miami and have a Gen 2 type 65 coupe. Give me a call at your convenience, 305-505-0463.
Herb

Will do! I would like to see one in person, never have.

[Kbl7td]

Can anyone confirm if the mustang brake shields are used on the IRS? The ones that come with the donor? Also I believe the old half shafts get tossed as well?

[Kbl7td]

My build has taken a hiatus as I had to cancel my build and push it back several times due to time issues. I just reordered a base kit again this past Wednesday. Few questions.

I will be doing the IRS and front LCA tubular.

Do I need to source the front spindles and hubs? The website is a little unclear if those are provided when you order the LCA tubular arms.

[MPTech]

Another good reason to go with the LT vs LS (35 - 60 additional HP):

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Should be a fun project, congrats!

[Kbl7td]

Not much to report here yet, the car was slated to be finished Dec 9. However I have not heard from stewart recently. I am out of the country near the end of this month so delivery will have to wait until after new years. I have lots of parts sitting on the shelf, decided to get the tank finished. A quick 15min job.


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[Kbl7td]

Coupe arrived last Monday the 15th. I’ve tried to work as much as possible on it. Plan is to mock everything up first and see if I have everything I need, then we’ll tighten down and go kart before hitting body work etc.

This is the Lo boy fan, 3000cfm, probably a must in Miami. Mocking up stage for making the glass/carbon fan shroud.

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Rear IRS, everything mocked up. Nothing torqued or bolted down.

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This is the original GM pedal, really tight fit. I have a Holley pedal in order to try that should be significantly smaller.

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[Kbl7td]

Main battery leads and power center feeds mocked up.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=194774&d=1705926414

I really did not want to mount the regulator on the firewall, however looking at the room in the back, it just made more sense to put it here for ease. I don’t love it.

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This is the coupe 23 system by Coach controls. Gives me a little more freedom over wiring.

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[Kbl7td]

Front mocked up with powerstop fittings. Let me know if anything looks out of place.

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Fuel system in place.

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[Kbl7td]

This week I’ll be doing brake lines. 3/16 Nicopp. Setting and drilling panels. I’ll more than likely prep the IRS frame brackets for POr15 and get that done so I can mount the diff and rear IRS for the last time.

Attempting to put in a steering rack out of an Oldsmobile intrigue so I can have a more finished look, as well as electric power steering. This all is proving to be a lesson in fabrication.

[Kbl7td]

Welded in some 1in angle to make the rear storage box.

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Modified the column which will now accept a 1”DD coupler to the stock FF DD shaft. I have the other joints on order. Mock up is here. Those joints will be attached with the coupler.

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Steering column can be seen mocked up here. I think the stock FF bracket will work. I’ll just well on a 1/4 plate so that the new column has something to bolt to as the width is wider. This gives me tilt, wipers, and turn signals. Steering wheel will be replaced obviously.

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[Kbl7td]

Seats came in today, man what a tight fit. I guess I wasn’t expecting such a vertical seat back angle. Definitely going to take some adjustment to get them at least somewhat of a decline. It seems others have posted too about seats hitting at the shoulder bolster. There seems to be a few inches of space directly behind the seat back. I’ll have to move the wheel forward slightly too as I hate being right up on the wheel.

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[MPTech]

What seats did you order?

[Kbl7td]

What seats did you order?

These are the seats. Lots of people use the same seat but I wanted to explore some other options. These are priced very very reasonable. The quality is amazing. Really nice feel and build to them.

At 5’11 190 I’m not exactly tall. Unless you’re below 5’9 I don’t understand how a seat slider is warranted in this car, I already feel like my chest is at the wheel and head at the ceiling and roll bars.


https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B09H74ZJLY?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

[burchfieldb]

Seats came in today, man what a tight fit. I guess I wasn’t expecting such a vertical seat back angle. Definitely going to take some adjustment to get them at least somewhat of a decline. It seems others have posted too about seats hitting at the shoulder bolster. There seems to be a few inches of space directly behind the seat back. I’ll have to move the wheel forward slightly too as I hate being right up on the wheel.

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I trimmed the body to get the seat to go back to the rollcage. It made quite a difference.
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[Kbl7td]

I trimmed the body to get the seat to go back to the rollcage. It made quite a difference.


I was considering this. I assume this doesnt mess with the panel alignments. Thats definitely a weird area of fiberglass.

[Kbl7td]

Size difference between GM and Holley pedal. Holley fits in there nicely now. No mods needed except a different less ugly pedal.

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Running rear lines.


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[Kbl7td]

Bit of an update. Started drilling and cleco’ing panels. Man what a chore this is, not particularly hard just mind numbing. Some panels require a bit of massaging like people have said, however I don’t know that there’s particularly a wrong way in the cockpit. Whatever you can do to get this flush and seated well.

Locked in the main body on the back, lots of adjustment here for later. Was nearly dead nuts with the measurements.

New steering wheel came, just waiting on my adapter.

Just got the last coupler for the power steering, it should mount in the general area where shown, a bit more lateral.

You can see the column mounted in this, once the adapter comes in I’ll weld in the plate and secure it.


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[Kbl7td]

Picked up the engine yesterday. Scored what I felt like was a very good deal on a 2018 LT1 with TR6060, super clean, all stock.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=195235&d=1706872290

My hoist was just not happy about this, all research online shows the dressed engine and trans at about 700lbs. The hoist just wouldn’t reach out far enough very easily. I’m already planning on dropping in a new cam, springs, timing chain, lifters etc. So I’ll likely drop it in without the accessories and heads and reassemble in the car when ready. Likely will have to modify my lift slightly to get about another foot of reach.

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[Alan_C]

Great choice for a donor engine/transmission. I have looked at Copart auctions, lots of late model Camaro SS's out there with salvage titles just in the Western states. I have one more restomod build in me and that drivetrain is what I would use to hot rot a vintage Camaro or Firebird.
Would you share what you paid for the engine and transmission on a pallet and who they were purchased from. I know it is cheaper in the long run to buy a complete donor car, but a lot more work too.
Thanks

[MC Builders]

I removed the gas pedal from the factory bracket and made my own bracket which moved the pedal closer to the foot box. Less expensive than buying a different pedal.

[Kbl7td]

Great choice for a donor engine/transmission. I have looked at Copart auctions, lots of late model Camaro SS's out there with salvage titles just in the Western states. I have one more restomod build in me and that drivetrain is what I would use to hot rot a vintage Camaro or Firebird.
Would you share what you paid for the engine and transmission on a pallet and who they were purchased from. I know it is cheaper in the long run to buy a complete donor car, but a lot more work too.
Thanks

eBay. I’ve been watching them for years. The LT tends to hang around a similar spot to the LS. There’s definitely more moving parts to the LT, Direct injection, high pressure pump, addition of the VVT and DOD on all engines, etc. I think that’s why the prices remain similar to the LS.

I had a 2017 corvette that was scary fast, this should be even more terrifying. Terminator X to the rescue with traction control.

[Kbl7td]

I removed the gas pedal from the factory bracket and made my own bracket which moved the pedal closer to the foot box. Less expensive than buying a different pedal.

Holley terminator X requires a specific pedal, went down that road on my SLC and this time just decided to order the smallest pedal from them. That way I don’t have problems.

[Kbl7td]

Was able to take off the heads and weld on an extra strap to my lift. Essentially got it out another 10in. I just barely got it all in, will definitely have to make some modifications. I already knew I’d need to put in new engine mounts and trans.

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[Kbl7td]

Been a bit since last update. Since then I’ve walnut blasted my valves, these DI engines really get things gummed up without a good catch can. Lapped the valves, changed the springs and trunnions in prep for the BTR cam. I also put in a shallower oil pan.

As far as I’m aware this is the first LT1 in a coupe, probably another out there who knows. This required custom mounts and trans mounts. Everything will be taken out, tac’d up more and cleaned up. I was able to make everything cushioned by urethane mounts.

Up next is getting the electric power steering mounted and sorted.

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[Kbl7td]

I feel like the build is moving at a snails pace now. Was waiting on a few parts to come, so no I can finish closing up the cam swap and engine fresh up. Right now she’s sitting in frame waiting to be finished. Then I’ll pull out, clean up and finish the frame painting. Speaking of…

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I ordered POr15 top coat DTM, did all the prep etc. It turned out horrible. Thankfully this is just on the rear section which will be completely hidden. I’ve had success with this stuff before, but this time no go. So I ordered Eastwood chassis black and will be priming and spraying the rest of the frame.

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Additionally alignment of the engine/trans seems to have come out perfect and the shifter sits beautifully in place. Hopefully the driveshaft won’t be too much of a PITA.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=196199&d=1709124335

[Kbl7td]

This is moving slower than I wanted, lots of other things popping up requiring my attention. However, engine is rebuilt, settled in place, chassis painted and started laying out where the massive Holley harness and ECUs will go. Once I get the wiring sorted I’ll start putting in the front paneling permanently. Brushed look with sharkhide.

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[Alan_C]

Quite a project as that engine will make the car a beast. I plan to order my couple on 4/5, but going with a more conventional SBF 363. What is going to be unique on mine will be the use of the 10R80 with a external controller. There is a adapter plate available to permit bolting up the 10R80 to a 302 block. I really love the modern automatics as they shift faster than anyone can a manual and they are very robust too. I will install paddle shifters and a Lokar sport shifter to select gears. Going to be so much fun. The 363 will be stack injected and should dyno at about 550 crank HP. Not cheap, but the looks of the stacks are tough to beat.

[Skuzzy]

Quite a project as that engine will make the car a beast. I plan to order my couple on 4/5, but going with a more conventional SBF 363. What is going to be unique on mine will be the use of the 10R80 with a external controller. There is a adapter plate available to permit bolting up the 10R80 to a 302 block. I really love the modern automatics as they shift faster than anyone can a manual and they are very robust too. I will install paddle shifters and a Lokar sport shifter to select gears. Going to be so much fun. The 363 will be stack injected and should dyno at about 550 crank HP. Not cheap, but the looks of the stacks are tough to beat.

Will the 10R80 fit in the tunnel of the Type 65 Gen 3 Coupe? It is a little over 5 inches wider and about 4 inches taller than the Tremec T56 Magnum-F. It is also about 4 inches longer.

[Alan_C]

Will the 10R80 fit in the tunnel of the Type 65 Gen 3 Coupe? It is a little over 5 inches wider and about 4 inches taller than the Tremec T56 Magnum-F. It is also about 4 inches longer.

I will find out. I can weld, so some modifications are likely necessary. I have a 6R80 in the 70 Mustang restomod I am building. I did have to modify the tunnel and the firewall on the Mustang, but not as extensively as you might think.
I am going to make it fit and the extra 5 inches of wheelbase over the MK4 will help with the driveshaft length. I am not worried, at most I will mod the 3/4" tubing and aluminum sheet metal. After restomoding my 70 mustang, not too much scares me anymore.
Wider and taller I get, but longer I really doubt it as the slip joint that is normally part of a manual transmission is part of the driveshaft for the 6R80 and 10R80 transmissions. My 6R80 actually looks stubby compared to a standard T5. When I get a chance, I will measure a T5 at a friends place vs my 6R80. Wanna bet which one is longer and I will take the 6R80 as being shorter.
I should get the kit late June or early July based upon expected lead times according to Factory Five.

[Kbl7td]

I will say I have a ton of room in front of the engine. About 18in. The back is about 1-1.5in to the diagonals near the “bell housing”. I have no pan hanging below the frame nor trans.

[Alan_C]

I will say I have a ton of room in front of the engine. About 18in. The back is about 1-1.5in to the diagonals near the “bell housing”. I have no pan hanging below the frame nor trans.

I can imagine you have just about all the room in the world. The LSs and LT1s are about as compact as any modern engine out there. When I was thinking about building a 69 Firebird Convertible Trans Am tribute, I would have gone with the same drivetrain as you are in your coupe. Lots of HP and torque and in plentiful supply in Phoenix and the surrounding states. It appears that the Chevy boys aren't too good at keeping the rear in line and end up hitting something or putting it in a ditch. I was quite surprised at the number of good donors that were available. To the point, the higher the performance level of the Camaro, the more cars were at junk yards until you got to the ZL1, then limited production volume made those hard to find if you could find one. In that case, a Cadillac CTS-V became a better donor choice as there are a good number of those out there. The LT4 is a great engine, kind of sorry I won't get my hands on one anytime soon and probably never as I have a plan for building out my stable of cars and they are all Fords. I will put a SBF 363 in my coupe, so room around the engine should be similar to yours. The adapter plate to adapter the 302 block to the 10R80 looks to be about 1/2" thick or so. So I will hope that I can get the 10R80 in there will minimal modifications. Unlike with my MK4, I will have a full build thread to lead the way for others to consider a modern automatic. My new garage will start in 4 or 5 weeks as the County only needs one more drawing to issue my permit to build, yah! Once the garage is up and occupiable and the Mustang is finished, I will dive into the coupe build feet first. I am buying now as the Spring sale will let me deduct $1000 from the 2015 IRS upgrade and there is a price increase coming. My guess is the price increase is at least $1K. So ordering on or before 4/5 can potentially save as much as $2K.
I will keep watching your build and Eric's to see if there is anything I have overlooked in my planning and I am sure there is.

[Kbl7td]

More progress made, most all of the wiring is back in and terminated. Holley system all in. Radiator, condenser and hoses are sorted. Just waiting on a few silicone fittings. I’ll finish fitting the drivers panels this week.

Ended up buying a powder coating gun and doing one of the rear brakes, and the emergency handle parts. Really easy to do. Just 3 more left.

Wheels and tires are in. 1in spacers out back. 315/30/19 and 295/30/19. Hopefully they fit well when the body goes on. Really hoping to have her dropped down and rolling by ended of the month. Starting would be nice but exhaust will be holding me up.

AC unit mounted a bit different, utilized all three brackets in the factory riv nuts in the AC. Much more sturdy and not tilted in the frame.

Brake and clutch hoses routed, will get these bled once all brakes are on.

Bottom of AC condenser giving me issues like other, I’ll just trim the aluminum.


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[Kbl7td]

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[Kbl7td]

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[Kbl7td]

New boots.

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[Kbl7td]

Little progress again being made, albeit not huge things.

Acc, IGN, start/stop is wired up. The guard dawg is nice but simplicity is better, hated cycling through the button when trying to tune my previous car.

Previously noted I mounted the AC squarely, looks proper and still gives me lots of room for fittings. I’m not running heat.

I welded and powder coated the door hinges to give them that nice smooth look.

Expansion tank has been mounted using the LT heater core lines as a pass through. No steam ports on the LT necessarily, just one coming off the top of thermostat housing which is the highest point.

Had to order more #8 and 10 hose, factory five supplies very little for this sort of configuration. Plus I want all the lines to be more proper and hidden as much as possible.

Plan is to drop the body on tonight and see about getting the doors fitted.

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[Kbl7td]

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[Kbl7td]

Let me start by saying this is what a real garage looks like. I swear some people polish up their cars before taking every picture, no way you can grind fiberglass and make things fit without a disaster.

Lots of progress made, not many pictures taken. Body is on and hopefully in its resting place. The back was secured to the brackets as described. The door sills don’t leave much room for securement on my car. Right now I have just a single cleco holding them while I fit the doors. I’ll 100% have to add some aluminum door sills to cover this area as the cuts made from ffr aren’t exactly straight.

The doors as described in many threads are challenging, but if you take your time you can eventually end up with a halfway decent fit until final sanding etc.

My hood fits and is mounted, I’ll need to trim the front underside more to grant full opening. Lots of final tuning to be done here though. I will definitely need located pins, rollers on the side to keep it from sucking in, and a healthy amount of final sanding at the bottom corners.

As soon as I get these panels fit enough for decent gaps and secured, I’ll work on the headers as a final segway into go kart mode.

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[Alan_C]

Fantastic progress. The more I see your build the more I am thinking of buying a late model Camaro SS with the 10-speed auto. I was going to put the 10R80 behind a SBF, but I can generate just as much HP for less by buying a low mileage late model Camaro. They are plentiful out here in the Western states and I can sell off a lot of the donor and recover substantial money. I don't know if it is the dark or cheap side that is drawing me there, but giving it serious thought.
Keep up the good work, seeing the project move ahead at the pace you are is impressive.

[Kbl7td]

I’ll be honest with you. The dark side thing gives me a chuckle. People putting coyotes in the cars, SBFs etc, hoping for better resale or to stay true to the history; is just pure nonsense. There is nothing about this car that is even close to the original. The frame is completely different, the body doesn’t have any of the same lines, AC installed in most, must I go on?

Again, just my opinion, but the LS is superior to the coyote or any other SBF in every way. It’s smaller, lighter, easy to tune, tons of aftermarket support, produces a lot more torque where it really matters, and you don’t have to crank it to 8k to get useable power.

Theres a reason why the LS or LT now for this generation is the most popular swap motor.

I think you might be able to make the auto work but I’d for sure look at schematics comparing the tr6060 and 10r80 sizes. There is room to move the engine forward or cut the firewall cross bars if you had to.

[Alan_C]

Agreed for the most part. When I was building my MK4 10 years ago, lots of threads about period correctness, which as you point out, is meaningless with these cars.
I would like something that looks good to cover the coil packs, an eyesore IMO. I have seen them remotely mounted, but not interested in going that route. I think some raised covers to cover them up and look like tall valve covers would do the trick.
When I first looked at your LT1, the intake looked like a supercharger, maybe intentional on GM's part. I am sure there are dress up items to disguise the modern nature of these engines.

[Alan_C]

Am I wrong, or are you not doing a build thread? If not, please reconsider at what you learn putting the LT1 in the coupe will be a model for anyone considering doing the same, like me.
I am 95% convinced to go the LT1 route. A stage I CAM kit from summit is said to boost HP by 60 HP and a stage II a bit more. I think I will stick with the stage I as adding headers, modified intake and a tune will add a bit more. I figure 525 flywheel HP to motivate 2500 lbs will be more than enough!

[Alan_C]

Will the 10R80 fit in the tunnel of the Type 65 Gen 3 Coupe? It is a little over 5 inches wider and about 4 inches taller than the Tremec T56 Magnum-F. It is also about 4 inches longer.

Actually, the 10R80 is only 27.9 inches in length according to Ford Performance. The T-56 Magnum F is said to be 31.8 inches in length. The big difference is that the slip joint must me included in the driveshaft, not in the transmission housing. In fitting the 6R80 to my 70 Mustang restomod, the size issue was with that the bellhousing area is taller and wider. Once about 12 inches back, no additional changes needed. We took a poor approach to modifying the tunnel for my Mustang, not the same problem for the coupe. We will find out as my plan is now to proceed with the LT1/10R80 combo.

[Alan_C]

Looking at your pictures, no headers are shown. I am learning about the LT1 and from what I have read, the headers flange for the LT1 is different that for the LS3. So what is your plan for the headers? I sent a inquiry to Gas-N regarding headers for the LT1, but so far no response. To make things worse, I would like to incorporate a small high performance muffler into the headers as well. Looks like I am going to have to buy one of the mock up kits and create my own design unless you have a better option?
I had the CAT/J-pipes on my 4.6L DOHC engine in my MK4 and I liked them a lot. The CATs quieted down the exhaust a bit and reduced the heat reaching the side pipes. Both were benefits to me. Any ideas as to how you are going to get your headers made?

[burchfieldb]

Looking at your pictures, no headers are shown. I am learning about the LT1 and from what I have read, the headers flange for the LT1 is different that for the LS3. So what is your plan for the headers? I sent a inquiry to Gas-N regarding headers for the LT1, but so far no response. To make things worse, I would like to incorporate a small high performance muffler into the headers as well. Looks like I am going to have to buy one of the mock up kits and create my own design unless you have a better option?
I had the CAT/J-pipes on my 4.6L DOHC engine in my MK4 and I liked them a lot. The CATs quieted down the exhaust a bit and reduced the heat reaching the side pipes. Both were benefits to me. Any ideas as to how you are going to get your headers made?

Call Georgie at Gas-N, you will likely get faster response. I am in the same boat and have to make custom headers for my Cleveland. I talked to him and he said he would send me a mock up kit to get everything set, I would then send it back to him, and then he would make the headers. If you are handy at welding and 3D printing, you could make your own mockup kit, similar to the Icengineworks kit, and weld them up. This is the path that I am going to go down, since I am planning on trying to make the headers longer and add CATs as well to try and quiet things down.

[Alan_C]

Call Georgie at Gas-N, you will likely get faster response. I am in the same boat and have to make custom headers for my Cleveland. I talked to him and he said he would send me a mock up kit to get everything set, I would then send it back to him, and then he would make the headers. If you are handy at welding and 3D printing, you could make your own mockup kit, similar to the Icengineworks kit, and weld them up. This is the path that I am going to go down, since I am planning on trying to make the headers longer and add CATs as well to try and quiet things down.

Thanks for the reply. Since you are far ahead, I will follow your lead. I can weld, but no 3D printing capability. I would be interested in any documentation you have on the engine mounts you made. Regarding the engine mounts, what did you select when you ordered? My kit won't be ready to ship till August. I specified SBF mounts, I need to call to see if there is a better choice.

[Kbl7td]

Not sure if you meant to respond to him or not. For the LT. LS mounts won’t work. At least not the portion that mounts to the engine, you can use the points that are mounted and welded to the frame of you can just chop off what factory five gives you and start from scratch. I chose an LT1/4 universal kit from eBay. Simple enough to weld onto the mounts that FFR already had on the frame.

As far as headers, yes you’ll need to make them custom. I have everything laying there I just haven’t had time to start them. No off the shelf headers will work, I’ve tried.

So to recap, new fabrication includes…

Engine mounts
Exhaust
Trans mounts
Driveshaft

[Alan_C]

Read through your complete thread so far. I noticed in your intro that you are going electric PS. I did a bit of research and noted the LT1 in the Camaro uses electric PS as does the Coyote from the 2017 GT donor I bought for my Mustang restomod. I have some time to research and consider a switch to electric PS. I have a hydroboost PB system in my Mustang, so a fluid PS system made sense. In the coupe I am going with manual brakes.
For your coupe order, did you order a manual rack for use with the Saturn Vue electric PS unit?

[Kbl7td]

Again progress to a crawl….

Both doors now mounted with latches and handles. Satisfied, but again much fine tuning to do. Especially when considering the addition of weatherstrip.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=200855&d=1719062018

Hood struts mounted, really don’t know how FFR doesn’t have a better out of box solution for this. Obviously it’s not hard to fix but these struts really flex that flimsy body bracing.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=200856&d=1719062018

Driveshaft has been in for awhile now, dual CV from driveshaft shop.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=200859&d=1719062049

Headers are the priority now so I can get this thing running and driving.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=200857&d=1719062018

[Alan_C]

Again progress to a crawl….

Both doors now mounted with latches and handles. Satisfied, but again much fine tuning to do. Especially when considering the addition of weatherstrip.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=200855&d=1719062018

Hood struts mounted, really don’t know how FFR doesn’t have a better out of box solution for this. Obviously it’s not hard to fix but these struts really flex that flimsy body bracing.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=200856&d=1719062018

Driveshaft has been in for awhile now, dual CV from driveshaft shop.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=200859&d=1719062049

Headers are the priority now so I can get this thing running and driving.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=200857&d=1719062018

Very interested in how you develop your headers. I want to incorporate a small CAT into the design. I know I can buy the flanges for the heads from many sources. When you have more details of your design, please share.

[Kbl7td]

Started on the headers today, slow start but this is 3hrs in. The rest of this side I’m hoping to finish in a couple more hours. Took some time to figure out the routing etc. Each runner may have to be disconnected as well so I can get complete welds around. I really hope the drivers goes as well so I can finally start this thing.


https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=201571&d=1720487227

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=201572&d=1720487227

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=201573&d=1720487227

[Kbl7td]

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=202322&d=1722423440

Testing a new location for the hood struts to hopefully give less forward push on the nose.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=202323&d=1722423440

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=202324&d=1722423440

Passenger header all tacked, just needs final welds.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=202319&d=1722423348

My rear hatch is in a constant state of wanting to push up, normal? No latch on yet.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=202321&d=1722423348

Little view of the column with tilt wheel, the dash will be heavily modified for a more modern look. Most likely made of carbon fiber/fiberglass.

[Namrups]

Interesting idea on the hood struts. Great example of thinking outside the box! But it may make things worse. With my coupe, the issue with the struts is pushing on the top of the hood making the distance between the hinge mounting surface and the top of the hood to widen. This pulls the edge of the hood that meets the body cowl forward. The location of your struts may make that worse. My solution was to attach a strap to the support ridge, thats glued to the hood, to lock the distance between the hinge location and the top of the hood.

[Kbl7td]

Interesting idea on the hood struts. Great example of thinking outside the box! But it may make things worse. With my coupe, the issue with the struts is pushing on the top of the hood making the distance between the hinge mounting surface and the top of the hood to widen. This pulls the edge of the hood that meets the body cowl forward. The location of your struts may make that worse. My solution was to attach a strap to the support ridge, thats glued to the hood, to lock the distance between the hinge location and the top of the hood.

Yes that is my next move. Right now the hood won’t even open because the pressure of the strut wants to bend the fiberglass support and pop off the strut. Like you said I’ll attach an aluminum support to the lower and upper portion. As well as add filler all along the existing supports. This should put force only in that front area of the hood where it’s already difficult to flex. Additionally should hide those struts more from view.

[Namrups]

I used HSRF to fill the gap between the body and the glued on support structure to help structurally and to finish off the look better when I coated it all with Raptor. I also added a strip of 1/8" aluminum to the strut mounting location to stiffen the support structure.

[burchfieldb]

Let us know how the hood struts work out, I may want to modify mine as well. As a heads up, you will want to point the silver rod end of the strut down, this will keep the seal in the strut oiled and keep the gas from leaking out over time.

[Kbl7td]

Left side tacked and half way tigged. Hoping for first start by next week.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=203026&d=1724416475

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=203027&d=1724416475

Toying with taillight placement, I’ll be doing some significant rear end mods but I’d like to get those sorted in final location first.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=203028&d=1724416475

[Kbl7td]

Finishing up the tig welding, a few more hours and everything should be done. Then ready for first start/drive.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=203075&d=1724523856

[Kbl7td]

Many updates to be made later today, for now here’s the first video…


https://youtu.be/mpYyyBxXkBg?si=RB2Z_sFsXPXBfuoE

[Namrups]

Link no good

[Kbl7td]

Finally got the Oldsmobile column wired up. This took me longer than I expected because I completely forgot how I wired the previous one. Retains all controls on the stalk and the windshield wipes will be functional as well.

The reverse lights and reverse lockout for the Tr6060 are controlled by a virtual toggle on the Holley dash.


https://youtu.be/EAXmJI3DNy0?si=jtTzd2dduRPIV3OD

[Kbl7td]

Additionally started the body cutouts to resemble the coupe R.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=204252&d=1726593220

Holley dash and the 4 important buttons.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=204254&d=1726594049

The dash will have to be nearly completely custom.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=204253&d=1726594049

[Kbl7td]

Short video detailing my plans and current progress. Long story short, lots of body mods and hoping to spray gel coat temporarily until paint.



https://youtu.be/yg-90097YkM?si=sO6FAh0WsBU18Yj7

[JimStone]

Lots of neat, unique stuff going on here. Keep up the good work.

[460.465USMC]

Great update. Thanks for the video, and for the tip on how you cleaned up the mold seams.

[Kbl7td]

I don’t want to go into a long winded explanation here, briefly, I ended up saying screw the gelcoat and just sprayed down a 2 part urethane over the mold seams for now. In retrospect I could have done this a lot quicker and simpler a different way. Later on I’ll go into why I did that and what I would do differently in a video. I still have to cut in and mold both front vents but that’s going to take some time. For now I just want to get it on the road.

She’s a “looks ok from 8ft away” right now car.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=205845&d=1730124015

Aft end starting to come together, I’d like to finish it off with the plate and some sort of integrated diffuser.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=205844&d=1730123961

Dash is taking shape, lots of filling and shaping still to do.
It will be very simplistic with just a few buttons, Holley screen and stereo screen.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=205846&d=1730124015

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=205842&d=1730123961

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=205843&d=1730123961

[PNWTim]

I like what you are doing with your dash. If you have the time, please include lots of photos of the progress. I want to do something similar but open to execution ideas and techniques since there seems to be many different ways to get to the finish line.

[Kbl7td]

As far as the dash…it’s just 1/4 finish plywood from HD. Very lightweight and easy to work with. For the joint where the flat and face meet, there’s just a 3/4x3/4 piece of pine. Just some finish nails holding it tighter. The foam is cheap xps foam, we don’t really have the purple stuff down here. I just tossed together an idea and got to shaping with 80grit and a razor knife. Still not completely happy with it but hoping I can add some more character.

You must coat the foam in epoxy, otherwise most everything will melt it. Filler will be compromised of epoxy/glass bubbles and just plain old auto filler…

More to come.

[Kbl7td]

Any progress is good progress! Starting to look a look smoother, will probably integrate an overhang for the gauge screen.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=205888&d=1730247387


Trying to sort out the diffuser fins and plate, going for a 458 vibe.


https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=205887&d=1730247387
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=205889&d=1730247387

[Kbl7td]

Hoping I can get this thing in a mold and a fiberglass test piece pulled before end of the weekend. Still want to add an instrument screen overhang to match the passenger side.
The final burning question is do I make it all out of carbon fiber.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=206223&d=1731067791

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=206222&d=1731067791

[Kbl7td]

Added that dash brow. Still unsure of some of the shapes, might adjust a little more. Not that anyways curious, but the center portion is angled towards the drivers seat and is pronounced so that the single single screen can have room to slide back and not hit the trans cover.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=206404&d=1731593848

[PNWTim]

Looking good! You can definitely see the angle towards the driver - makes sense given what you are placing there.

[Kbl7td]

Had to add a brow on the stereo, just couldn’t leave it alone. Hoping to pull a mold soon.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=206887&d=1732659392

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=206888&d=1732659392

[Kbl7td]

Life and a bathroom remodel are in the way. Got some time to get the power steering rigged up. Will add some more bracing and then tig. Car is undriveable in my opinion without some sort of power steering.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=207947&d=1734956180

[Kbl7td]

95% done, functional. Works perfectly, have yet to take it on the road but the driving experience will increase 100 fold.


https://youtu.be/Nniksf6XW7c?si=6k82aoWk5mA_SGIj

[Kbl7td]

This dash has been such a long saga. Original plans were to make a mold, then pull a carbon piece from that. That just wasn’t going to work based on the shape. So ended up using the mold as the final. Still requires some work with filler, paint, etc.

Originally the function buttons would be on the left side of the dash. However I’m going to reserve more spots for 4 AC vents. The control buttons will now go up top in the headliner like an airplane.

Custom headliner incoming. This should cut down on noise and heat I hope.


https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=209868&d=1738347208

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=209870&d=1738347302

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=209869&d=1738347302

[PNWTim]

At least you are in the home stretch on the dash. Curious if you were going to vacuum bag the CF? Are there just too many compound curves to make it lay correctly? I know very little about the process but am surprised it can't take the contours.

[Kbl7td]

Yes lots of compound curves, etc. I think the ideal situation would have been a prepreg and vacuum bagging. But honestly I’m not worried about weight, it just would have been kinda cool looking. I may settle for the illusion of a carbon part by doing in inlay on the top. Frankly I just want to get the car driving more tho. All this custom stuff takes time.

[burchfieldb]

I feel your pain on the custom stuff. It takes way more time than you think it will.

[M. Townsend]

Thanks for sharing the journey. Nice work. Looking forward to seeing where the journey takes you and your ride.

[Kbl7td]

Decided I would try to give the roof a bit of insulation. This is 1/2 balsa core. Fiberglassed over and filled smooth. Raptor will then go over, then headliner material.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=211833&d=1742900873

Added some kilmat to the wheel wells, fiberglsssed over. Everything is now read for the raptor liner.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=211831&d=1742900681

Finally sprayed in some lizard skin ceramic as well. Hopefully this, the kilmat and carpet will cut down on heat transfer.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=211832&d=1742900681

[Kbl7td]

Headliner in and body coated. Spilled the hardener so ran out of some of the raptor meant for the body, will have to touch up a couple spots but overall great. Body is back on now hopefully can knock out carpet and then prep the hood for raptor.


https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=212447&d=1744194211

[PNWTim]

A couple of questions:

How well did you sand the fiberglass over the balsa core before applying the raptor? It looks like the headliner installed pretty smooth which is great but I would have expected it to be more rough between the glass and the raptor.

Did you spray, roll or brush the raptor?

Did you fold under the termination ends of the headliner at the pillars or just leave them as is?

It's looking great and interesting to see the Lotus tail lights from the inside. They look about 1 1/2" bigger.

[Kbl7td]

The edges of the balsa where it was 1/2 proud of the fiberglass was filled with glass/silica. Then faired flat smooth, then body filler so it was smoothly blended into the roof. Then one last layer of mat over all of that to seal it. Then sanded to to rough up, and the raptor. The headliner goes into the little lip above either door and then terminates at the front and back, it’s so dark in this area that it all blends in. The raptor was sprayed. I used way more than I thought.

[Kbl7td]

This isn’t a great photo but it illustrates the point that it’s just so dark up top with everything black that it all blends in.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=212482&d=1744241391

[PNWTim]

That all makes sense, appreciate the clarification. I think when I see the upside down tub I forget how much is really going on in the cockpit once the body is installed. It looks really clean. When you drum on the roof does it sound "dead" after you installed the balsa core and glass?

[Kbl7td]

Finally started the carpet, using the blue can landau glue with a brush. All the pieces are cut within and inch, now comes the tedious task of cutting to size precisely. Biggest take away here is to paint the corners of the interior black where the seams are. If the cuts aren’t perfect then at least the aluminum won’t show through.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=212768&d=1744928453

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=212769&d=1744928489

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=212770&d=1744928518

[PNWTim]

I am probably going with a square weave German style carpet and have had this floating around in the back of my head for a while. I don't believe I will have to serge or bind the edges (unless exposed) so I was planning on using the F5 carpet pieces as patterns. Is there a reason you are not doing this?

[Kbl7td]

I have the base kit. So buying the carpet would have been a waste. I went with a more flexible plush carpet. Really the only high traffic areas will be where your feet are. Which I’ve already decided I’m going to make a fiberglass “pan” of sorts in the foot box under my feet. Sort of like the weather mat you put in a car.

Once the seats are in damn near most of the carpet is covered. Then the only real place a slight seam may be is at the trunk edges, which you can get those really tight.

[PNWTim]

That is kind of what I thought. Makes sense. You are absolutely right though - carpet installation always feels like a milestone and looks great but when everything is buttoned up you might see a 10th of it in very small doses.

[Kbl7td]

Not a lot to update. Shot the dash with more gel coat, still little finishing details to workout. Front sprayed with raptor.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=213176&d=1745846017

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=213177&d=1745846017

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=213178&d=1745846017

[Kbl7td]

Got sime upholstery in. As well as started on the carbon door sills. Added some foam to the areas in front of the doors. These will get better looking, but much better solution than the aluminum panels and weatherstrip.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=213300&d=1746221028

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=213301&d=1746221028

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=213298&d=1746220987

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=213299&d=1746220987

[JimStone]

I really like the diamond stitch

Were you able to get material already stitched or did you have someone do it?

[Kbl7td]

Yes Amazon. Then get the blue landau glue. Stuck to the aluminum better than I thought.

[Kbl7td]

Wow! Quite awhile since I’ve posted. Like many others I’ve been busy with other projects, the car has stalled while I worked toward paint. I recently had a tenant move out of a two car detached garage I own. I’ve been cleaning it out, insulating and installing AC and plumbing. This should be wrapped up this weekend.

After completion I’ll move the car from my home garage and into this shop where it will be painted.

I plan to do a video series on the whole process, I’m not professional but I’d like to illustrate how it can be done in your home garage no problem.

My process will be as follows….

1. Finish all the custom body features I’ve done, tailights, license plate recess and built in fenders scoops.
2. The car will be blocked with 120 then 180.
3. Filled with U-pol gold in the obvious spots.
4. Spray feather fill 2-3 coats.
5. Block and guide coat again.
6. Another coat of featherfill and block.
7. Spray epoxy primer.
8. Wet sand to 400
9. Base and clear.

These bodies are thick as F and heavy. Should have no problem getting the car really straight without much filler. No mercy for the gel coat.

[Lugnut Mark]

Looking slick and pretty modern … love the lotus taillights to … you may want to put Porsche headlights in it as well …. build on my brotha

[Lugnut Mark]

Hey Kyle it’s been a minute any updates on your coupe?

[Kbl7td]

Long time no see. Unfortunately lots of home projects, remodels and business has eaten up time. I got the first coat of featherfill on the hood and dash. The stuff is definitely thick and hid a lot of imperfections that I spend hours trying to hide. Lesson learned, the stuff hides a ton, get as close as you can with filler and then this stuff will hide. A lot will come off with sanding unfortunately. The body and doors are still left which will take a ton of time. Having the car at a diff garage from home and only 2hrs a day doesn’t help, ok enough excuses.

Lastly, I started the new GT40 company. There seems to be a hole in the market. Will be a steel space frame, carbon fiber and fiberglass body choices. This is an old picture, we’re nearly on the ground. All suspension is mounted. Will be working on the first molds soon.

You can follow a long at carbon40r instagram. And carbon40r.com

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=223567&d=1767453821

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=223568&d=1767453821

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=223569&d=1767454664

[burchfieldb]

Looks good!.Excited to see the GT40 buisness evolve and grow.

-Brent