Turn signal no workie?

[scrubs]

Wiring gurus! I call on you again.


Hazards work with no key, good.
High/low beam switch works

Left right turn signals...no action.

I tested the switch and there is continuity on both poles.

Swapped the LED flasher cans on the fuse array and the hazards still worked, not the turnels, so cans are ok.

No voltage at the fuse panel connectors going into the LED cans (yes, ignition on). There is 12v at the hazard connectors of the fuse panel going to its respective can.

What am i missing?

No lights are connected anywhere.

Appreciate any help,

J




183940

[i.e.427]

Check to make sure the LED flasher is grounded.

[scrubs]

Check to make sure the LED flasher is grounded.

Thx for the reply.

✔️ , both grounded to same spot.

[Ducky2009]

With the key off
Headlights work - Normal
Hazards work - Normal
Turn signals not working - Normal

[Blitzboy54]

Key has to be on for turn signals

[Papa]

Check the fuse? You should have 12v on the gray feed wire when the ignition is on. If you don't have any lights connected, be sure none of the grounds are shorting to the signal wires. That would cause the fuse to blow.

[i.e.427]

No lights are connected anywhere.

Appreciate any help,

J




183940

You have to have lights in order for them to work.

I missed your comment about "no lights connected" the first time.

Frank

[scrubs]

You have to have lights in order for them to work.

I missed your comment about "no lights connected" the first time.

Frank

Gracias, 427, will check with lights connected and report back.




To add and clarify fo the other replies (which are appeciated):

fuse intact
good continuity from switch to LED flasher connections on fuse panel
hazard worked with no key
headlight low/high beam worked no key
the turns no worked - with ignition in on position

[Papa]

You have to have lights in order for them to work.

I missed your comment about "no lights connected" the first time.

Frank

Frank,

I know that's true for the old style flasher cans, but is it still true for the solid state flashers used with LEDs?

Dave

[i.e.427]

Frank,

I know that's true for the old style flasher cans, but is it still true for the solid state flashers used with LEDs?

Dave

Yes and no Dave. I hate to be vague but it really depends on the flasher. The Ford Probe/Escort one I use in SLTHRR N doesn't care. Even a LED indicator light is enough load to make it work. Some of these plug in LED flashers......... not so much.

Frank

[scrubs]

Yes and no Dave. I hate to be vague but it really depends on the flasher. The Ford Probe/Escort one I use in SLTHRR N doesn't care. Even a LED indicator light is enough load to make it work. Some of these plug in LED flashers......... not so much.

Frank

Is there a better flasher I should replace the FFR flasher with?

[Alec]

Check for an on/off alternation of 12v on both the can output and on the input power to the turn signal switch. You can check both cans by sticking the probe into the pin without unplugging the can. If there is nothing there, but both of the cans work when switched to the hazard side, then the problem is with the can connection to the fuse panel at that location, or 12v input to that position in the panel (or the ground path but it sounds like both cans are well-grounded form what you said).

[scrubs]

Played some more today.

There is no 12v on my gray wire, regardless of ignition switch position. I connected the unused radio wire (which was showing 12v as it should on the ACC/on position) and got the dash L/R to light up, not flash. I assume the flashing needs the lights bcs swapping my flasher cans showed they both work for the hazard (not sure why that would not need the lights - maybe bcs BATT circuit?)

Just going to go ahead and use the radio circuit for now since I will not have a radio and prefer not disturb the perfectly good IGN Feed circuits.

[RBachman]

Is there a better flasher I should replace the FFR flasher with?

Maybe.
Generally, a typical stock automotive Turn Signal (or Hazard) Flasher Relay does not work with LED Bulbs. A typical mechanical flasher uses current flow to heat a bimetallic spring switch. If the current draw is too little to heat the bimetallic spring it won't flick back and forth. (This is what makes the clicking sound). Because Solid state flashers don't use a mechanical switch they don't have this issue. But then why do the hazards work? It may be because there is enough current when all the lights are drawing current instead of just the right or left side.

Edited to add that you can verify this by checking for voltage at the flasher, or putting a jumper wire across the flasher to see if the turn signals light up with the switch. I had to do this with mine.

[edwardb]

Don't give up... if you have the clear plastic looking flashers with an external ground pigtail that FF has been providing, those are solid state flashers and they're fine. I've used them on a couple builds and I've never had to do anything to them, replace, whatever. If swapping positions on the fuse panel and they both work the hazards, then nothing further to do there.

Your hazards are a on battery circuit, so work regardless of ignition key position including off. The turn signals are on an ignition circuit, so work in run and start. They won't work on ACC or off. You should have +12V on the grey turn signal flasher feed wire (make sure you're checking the right one) with the ignition switch in the run position. If you don't have +12V, then that's likely the source of the problem.

If you're other ignition circuits don't have +12V with the ignition switch in run (fuel pump, EFI or Coil, and choke, per the schematic in the wiring instruction manual) then check your ignition switch wiring. That's where the +12V for the ignition circuit comes from. If only the turn signal circuit isn't working -- and all the others are -- then it's either a fuse or something defective in the harness. Possible but unlikely IMO.

Using the radio feed for your turn signals isn't a good idea and doesn't go through the flashers. So not an option. Troubleshooting electrical issues it typically a matter of logically eliminating possibilities until the source of the problem is found.

[scrubs]

Don't give up... if you have the clear plastic looking flashers with an external ground pigtail that FF has been providing, those are solid state flashers and they're fine. I've used them on a couple builds and I've never had to do anything to them, replace, whatever. If swapping positions on the fuse panel and they both work the hazards, then nothing further to do there.

Your hazards are a on battery circuit, so work regardless of ignition key position including off. The turn signals are on an ignition circuit, so work in run and start. They won't work on ACC or off. You should have +12V on the grey turn signal flasher feed wire (make sure you're checking the right one) with the ignition switch in the run position. If you don't have +12V, then that's likely the source of the problem.

If you're other ignition circuits don't have +12V with the ignition switch in run (fuel pump, EFI or Coil, and choke, per the schematic in the wiring instruction manual) then check your ignition switch wiring. That's where the +12V for the ignition circuit comes from. If only the turn signal circuit isn't working -- and all the others are -- then it's either a fuse or something defective in the harness. Possible but unlikely IMO.

Using the radio feed for your turn signals isn't a good idea and doesn't go through the flashers. So not an option. Troubleshooting electrical issues it typically a matter of logically eliminating possibilities until the source of the problem is found.

Edwardb! Second time you stopped me from quitting on something and success! If I ever meet you, owe you a beer (or whatever your preferred drink may be).

Your comment about the radio not going thru the cans made me run out to the garage (wife yelling behind me that I have spent enough time in there today...). I stared and thought of the path of current and realized the flow...so kept playing with the ammeter and following the wires...whoa, the connector on the rear of the fuse array (the end of the wire that runs from the can to the fuse array) was loose!!!!!!!!!!!! Tight space, but managed with needle nose and a small flathead screwdriver to re-secure the connector to the plastic array...voila...turn signals. I'm ready to go to bed now...

[jolsen42]

Se that, perseverance pays off.;)

John O