So What is a Budget Build Today?

[Alan_C]

I saw a thread about a budget LS roadster. Made me start thinking what people consider a budget build today? When I started building my MK4 in 2011, a budget build involved a donor. Today, few people build from a donor car, a fresh build with all new components is much more typical. When I finished my car in 2014, with DaBat doing the body and paint, I spent $35K and I used a 2004 Mach 1 as a donor that allowed me to use a lot of donor parts.
I am kind of thinking a modern budget build would involve using using used parts and rebuilding where necessary. So is a budget build $45K today? Just curious as to what a entry level roadster would be on average. This is a just for grins exercise as I sold my MK4 in 2018 and, if I did a build today, it would very different from what I built before.

[maclonchas]

Alan_C,
What a great question. It is one element I struggled with as I get ready for my build to commence this month. I have watched the LS budget build as well as edwardB and other builds, and the cost for some start low, but in the end they all creep up in costs due to issues encountered in the build or finishing touches exceeding the budget build mantra.

For me, the budget build was my first choice. As I added up the costs for each used part and the retrofit, maintenance or other stupid mistakes I would make, it became apparent to me that cost difference between new and budget was not that great in the overall cost of the vehicle. The complete kit cost is fixed and the options that FFR provides can drive you from ~$24K-$35K. The area of options is where you can save money if you want to shop around (i.e. wheels and tires, dash, wipers, heat). The engine/transmission cost is one where I think you can save money short term, but like anything else it can be a crapshoot. What needs to be replaced/repaired and what tools and expertise you have at the time. For me, I knew this area of the build would be the weakest (give me a jet engine any day) and I would want new here. The cost tradeoff can be as high as $15-20K difference, but my bet is it will be less when done. My LS BPE is less than $20K with everything fitted For the MK4 roadster. The other products from Forte, Breeze, FFmetals, etc. are where you can drop some serious change, but this is the greatest area of customization you decide for yourself. The last area of course is body work and paint. If that is your area you want to save money, it is possible to really keep costs down here. I want my professionally done by someone who knows FFR cars. I am budgeting all total $65K. That may be low, but this is not an investment for me , but rather therapy. Hope this answers your question.

Bill

[MB750]

I guess my build could be considered "budget", but it's not a design theory I'm rigidly following. Rather a mild suggestion to keep from driving me into the poorhouse.

I bought a donor 95 Mustang GT but also a Complete kit. I only used the engine, trans, axle, and wheels from the Mustang and the rest went to the junk yard. I completely rebuilt the engine (all the way down to a block bore and deck for .030" over pistons, estimating 400hp at crank), trans (mostly new seals and bearings), and axle (new bearings, seals, and new limited slip clutches and gear pattern check). Also had the aftermarket wheels PC'd with some new rubber. The rest of the build is also mostly how FFR sent it to me.

A few notable exceptions though. I'm going with a Spintech exhaust under the car (no side pipes).
Brembo calipers and 13" rotors up front.
Some bits from Breeze (battery box, shroud, dash supports)
Hydraulic clutch
And some other mild stuff not worth mentioning individually but will all add up to a few hundred bucks on the back end.

So it's "budget" in the sense that I'm doing a lot of my own manual labor to make my car unique to how I want it without breaking the bank, but I'm also not letting expenses run wild. My talent lies in fabrication, and my own labor is cheap, so instead of buying something complete I'll make it myself (for the most part...). I'll do a cost breakdown when it's done.

[Kbl7td]

Some people aren’t going to like this, but I don’t think you see a lot of budget builds because of lack of skill. It’s easier just to buy new. For a “budget” build you need to be able to think outside the box. The amount of people here that drop 20k plus on an engine etc just to put a few hundred miles a year on them is crazy. I’d bet most these cars are sold to another owner before they ever hit 10k miles.

[Blitzboy54]

If 45k is a low cost build I did a complete kit with a high end body and paint job for right around 50k. If I was to do it again I could save 3k in not making mistakes and purchasing things I changed my mind on or never used. There are also a number of items I would delete and source myself that would have saved some money.

I rebuilt my own rear end and transmission (T5) and had someone else build a donor engine into a “crate” 306. I wish I had done more of this part myself and I am confident I could save 4K in that process. There is money that can be saved in body and paint but not as much as people think. But if you are absolutely committed to getting it right and spending all the time fitting, filling and building a temp spray booth (after purchasing equipment) you might be able to save 5-6k but that assumes the work comes out right. My early dry wall work was embarrassing in retrospect. Much better now but that came with practice. Body and paint is more art than science is how it seems to me. I didn’t want my car to look like I painted it.

I could do a complete build for 45k if I was to do it again but that doesn’t account for inflation so maybe I’m back to 50k.

If you bought a base kit and resourced and refurbished every part from the scrap yard maybe you could do it for less. It would be cool to see someone go that route.

[steno]

Budget…Smudget! Not a rule, but more of a concept! My 17 yo car has constantly evolved over the last 99k miles. Don’t know exactly how much I have into it now, but it’s a long way from the build I completed with a $500 donor car.

[jimfil61B]

Finished my build in 2019, took me 7 years to build it because I couldn't afford all the parts a once, I was going to use a donor car but decided to buy all new parts instead from the ground up, I think the price went well over $95,000 but thats in Canadian dollars so I think thats about $10,000 US, very happy the way it turned out and would definitely go with all brand new parts on my next build

[GoDadGo]

Check out..Taco Joes's Youtube Channel for a really well done budget build.

.https://www.youtube.com/@TacoJoe

I spent 45-K building my MK-4 with only one (1) used part which was the transmission yoke.
This included a block and camshaft replacement that occurred mid build.

Graduation Link:
https://www.factoryfive.com/whats-new/customer-steve-l-graduates-his-mk4-roadster/

Replacement Block Video:
https://youtu.be/IGYtX-3p7xk

[Dgc333]

My Speedstar is currently at the go-kart stage and just have body and paint left. I have just a little over $30k invested. The 5.7 hemi was a freeby that my son swapped for a customer because it had a failed lifter that wiped the cam. I took it apart, cleaned it, measured all the clearances and freshened it up with a cam, bearings, rings, oil pump, timing set & lifters. That was less than $1k. The hot rod wiring harness and reprogrammed factory ECU was $1.8k (runs great BTW). The T5 was something I picked up about 15 years ago with the intent of putting in my Barracuda but decided to stick with the 4spd. A friend of mines son in-law was building a Fox body drag car so he pulled the 8.8 and I picked it up for $200. 5 lug conversion axles, 94 Mustang rear disk/calipers and new bearings & seals set me back about $500.

I plan to do most of the body work myself and several of my buddies are saying to paint it too. In either case I should be able to get it done for less than $40k. I would consider my build a budget build.

[J R Jones]

Without strict accounting of receipts and a time clock , budgets start as a concept and are often the result of vague memory. In a development engineering environment a project starts with a specification that is the basis for the budget and "out the door" cost. It is a discipline to stay within the budget. Discovery is usually a budget buster.

Other pre-build evaluations might be costing of power levels VS entertainment and utilization.
How much enjoyment ROI is realized at 300hp, and 50hp increments up to 500hp? Every 50hp adds to the cost.
How many ROI miles per year do I expect at increasing cost AND power levels? This assumes your daily driver gets the most consistent use, while cost and increased power makes your project car less likely to be driven.
How often do you see the "For Sale" tag line: It never gets driven, it needs to go to someone that will enjoy it.
jim

[john42]

Perhaps the road less traveled...

Wife gave me a budget of 35k. Well not so much as gave me a budget, that's what we agreed to do. This was 2.5 years ago.

So I found a Challenge Car. The advantage to a Challenge car is that it's been driven and driven hard. If it was going to break it was broke and repaired to not break again. I ended up being very lucky and landed myself Carl Thompson's car which was built and maintained by the Traveling Builder. After buying the car and doing the bare minimum to make it street legal I've been slowly updating and replacing things to make it a nicer Cobra. I'm still all in way cheaper then building new and as a result I have a crazy fun to drive Cobra. It certainly is not a pristine beauty that goes to car shows. It's a driver, and an autox car that is well sorted. I have no fear taking it on long trips cross country... aside from my fear of getting wet! Even when I take it to car shows and park it smack dab in the middle of other pristine gorgeous Cobra's the crowd always seems to gather round the "racecar" with very keen interest in its' history. It's great fun being the ugly duckling :-) All depends on what you want. I wanted a driver. A car I wasn't afraid to get dirty, to race and also fix up. My 2 sons and I have had a blast updating this car. We've had it apart so much with body off changes that I'm pretty sure at this point there isn't a nut or rivet we haven't touched. We obviously didn't build it but we certainly have the blood, sweat and tears in it. So anyway, if you're looking for a budget build, I wouldn't discount taking a Challenge Car and making it your own.

[Ford & Jeep Fan]

My planned roadster build will definitely qualify as a Budget build. I've ben building and buying engine and rear axle parts in my basement for the last year. 3 used parts so far
(1) a 351C block, (2) a 92 8.8 Rear axle housing, (3) a 3.27 Ring and pinion gear) The Rear Axel is the ready. New True-trac31 spline axles and all new Disc brakes $1247 in axle

What I see and want to avoid is building a car that so fast, so loud, only has a appetite for High octane race Ga$ , so hard to drive that I'd only want to drive it two days a month.
My plan is to build a car with some kind of pipe inserts, I'll keep it under 10.7 to one compression, slightly higher gear so I'm not have to higher RPM drone. I still have to buy the

rotating assembly for the engine .

[skidd]

Since we're talking budgets.
I managed to actually keep under my lofty goal of. Less than 30k. I built mine between 2016-2919. Non-donor build. Combinations of new and used parts.. used explorer 302 for $500. Used T5z for $600. Used/rebuilt 3.55 sn95 axle and front spindles for $350. Most of the rest of the parts new. Then, sprayed in my garage. I tracked (and still do) every penny. All done for $27K. I think I'm a bit of an anomaly though.

https://www.ludicrous-speed.com/zp/cache/Shanes%20Cobra/PhotoShoot/IMG_6539_595.jpg?cached=1590899393

[nucjd19]

WOW Skidd!!!! I think you won the budget wars!

[AROCK]

WOW Skidd!!!! I think you won the budget wars!

I built mine mk4 roadster in 2022 in 7 months, I used the complete kit with independent rear end. The engine is a Ford Boss 427 with a TKX trans. I prepared and paint the roadster in my garage and it came out beautiful. The cost was $65,000 to $70,000. The only thing donated was my skill. I have been building cars over 50 yrs. So my cost are no bs.

[narly1]

My Speedstar is currently at the go-kart stage and just have body and paint left. I have just a little over $30k invested.

Be glad you don't live in Canada Dave. In Canadian dollars:

So far:

Engine: ~$16K (completely rebuilt by me 302 w/ AFR 165 heads, Pro Flo 4 EFI bucket list project)
Trans rebuild ~$1K
Torque converter: $800
Fuel delivery: pump, regulator, pre/post pump filters, braided line, connectors $750
Dif/rear axle parts: ~$1K
Kit(less brakes): $40K
Misc: ~$500


Still to purchase:

- frame powder coating
- brakes
- wheels/tires
- exhaust rear pipes & headers
- body/paint
- God knows what else that catches my eye as I work through this project LOL.

Conclusion: You really gotta want it if you live in Canada LOL.

Earl

[BEAR-AvHistory]

Believe I was into $41,500 for a no donor build in late 2014/2015. Kit (MK-IV) was about $22,000 with the annual sale of optional parts & the engine/transmission (Coyote/TKO-600) $12,000. Paint/bodywork (Whitby was $7500 at the time).

Lots of uncounted money (no major maintenance) on this & thats since then. Car is never truly done

[Fman]

Skidd for the win! You built your entire car for less than my kit cost delivered to my house! I was $32k shipped to my house. That really is mpressive and your car turned out awesome :cool:

In my opinion budget builds come down to how much time you have to hunt down used parts and your skill level of re-building them. For me I wanted a completely brand new car with a professionally built engine and pro paint job, so my budget was completely blown from day one :)

[Mike Sattelberg]

Hey Skidd,

What are the wheels on your roadster?

Thanks.
Mike

[Blitzboy54]

Hey Skidd,

What are the wheels on your roadster?

Thanks.
Mike

I'm guessing LMR. I have the same ones in black

[skidd]

Skidd for the win! You built your entire car for less than my kit cost delivered to my house! I was $32k shipped to my house. That really is really impressive and your car turned out awesome :cool:

In my opinion budget builds come down to how much time you have to hunt down used parts and your skill level of re-building them. For me I wanted a completely brand new car with a professionally built engine and pro paint job, so my budget was completely blown from day one :)

Bingo! I spent months watching craiglst and ebay for the parts I wanted, in the condition I wanted, for the price I wanted! The motor was a great deal. Found in complete on craigstlist for $550. The guy pulled it running from a 99 explorer. But, never got around to putting it into is project truck. Passed my cold leak-down test, and borescope inspection of the cylinders. Sold the parts from it I didn't need (for way more than they were worth to me, fox-mustang guys like GT parts). Put on a new intake manafold, and a used 600CFM SummitRacing Carb. Put in a used E303 cam, new double-roller chain, and upgraded the valve springs. All in, running motor with all accessories $500 (I'm using the Explorer accessories). That was the 1st purchase for my car, almost a year before I even ordered my base-mk4 kit from F5. This mill has been running strong ever since.
https://www.ludicrous-speed.com/zp/cache/Shanes%20Cobra/Drivetrain/IMG_20150131_165606712_595.jpg?cached=1592864894


Hey Skidd,

What are the wheels on your roadster?

Thanks.
Mike

Like Blitzboy54 said. They are FR500 wheels from LMR. 17"x10 in the rear with 315s. 17"x9 out front with 275s. With SN95 axles and a 3-link rear. no rubbing.

[GoDadGo]

WOW Skidd!!!! I think you won the budget wars!

Ditto & Roger That!

[DanQ]

Since we're talking budgets.
I managed to actually keep under my lofty goal of. Less than 30k. I built mine between 2016-2919. Non-donor build. Combinations of new and used parts.. used explorer 302 for $500. Used T5z for $600. Used/rebuilt 3.55 sn95 axle and front spindles for $350. Most of the rest of the parts new. Then, sprayed in my garage. I tracked (and still do) every penny. All done for $27K. I think I'm a bit of an anomaly though.

https://www.ludicrous-speed.com/zp/cache/Shanes%20Cobra/PhotoShoot/IMG_6539_595.jpg?cached=1590899393

But it took you 903 years! (2016-2919, stated in your post) By the way, how are my great, great, x 25 grandchildren doing in the year 2919 anyways? :)

[Jeff Kleiner]

We've seen a change in the builder culture over the 20+ years that I've been involved with these cars that has a real correlation to the "budget build" mindset. Back then, when I built my car in 2006 the point and click options for components and options were either nonexistent or few and far between. Now a builder surfs the Blueprint website and chooses and engine and transmission package that will show up ready to dop in...and can do the same for components like rear ends and a whole variety of custom add ons and accessories.I pulled a 5.0 out of an '89 Mustang, had the block bored and then built it myself with Trick Flow heads, cam, intake etc. Total of ~$4,500 for 350ish EFI horsepower. Same with the trans...found a World Class t-5 and rebuilt it with new bearings and synchros; $500 all in. Rear end same deal; built it up with with new gears, bearings and axles using only the housing from a Mustang for another $500. Trunk box, battery box, expanded footbox aluminum wasn't available from vendors so I bought sheets of aluminum and went to work bending them up. Did my own wiring...because there wasn't such a thing as a Ron Francis harness. I did the body and paint. I paid labor to have a driveshaft fabricated and the pipes ceramic coated otherwise it was all on me. That was pretty much the rule in the early 2000s... I didn't do it the way I did because it was a "Budget build", I did it that way because there weren't a lot of other options (actually the true budget builds at that time used components directly from a donor with only a degreasing and Krylon rebuild!). Things have flip flopped and most builders aren't doing all of this work now (I know you're out there MB750 as well as others). Don't get me wrong, there's nothing at all wrong with going that route if it's your desire and the funds allow but it is still possible to do a "Budget Build" if you're willing to invest the sweat equity. I completed mine for $25K in 2006 dollars and am confident that I could duplicate it today using the same methods for right around $31-32,000.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=183465&d=1501236068

Jeff

[Alan_C]

Jeff:

I understand the idea of sweat equity and that over the years the way guys approach building their cars have changed. However, the idea of paying full retail for all the components has never appealed to me. I liked the approach I took to my MK4 in 2011 using a 38K miles 2004 Mach 1 as a donor. The donor car parts were in very good condition and did not require much more than cleaning and some rejuvenation.
300 HP to the rear wheels was entertaining, but today most builders seem to be going for 400 plus.
The more I get involved with the hobby, I want to expand my skill set and do more than the last.

So my idea of a lower cost build would be more like the following.

1. I would want IRS vs. the 3-link in my first car. I would get a take out IRS from a current Mustang GT on a pallet.
2. I would want an upgraded engine and I am a coyote fan. I would look for a lower mileage truck coyote and upgrade it to GT specs but with new CAMs, oil pump gears, gen 3 intake, etc. I would still go with the Ford control pack.
3. I went with anti-lock brakes on the first build, but wouldn't do that again. Instead I would want the upgraded spindles with Wiwood brakes front and rear. They have a great setup for the Mustang IRS that includes the electronic parking brake.
4. For the fuel system, I would use one of the aftermarket Aeromotive fuel tanks as they have the plumbing for the inlet and outlet on the face of the tank, not on top. I am using one in my Mustang project and love the way it worked out and that there are no fuel lines on the top of the tank.

So in thinking what I would want to do, not so much a budget build as a custom build with a target cost under $50K. Lower if possible, but even with my first build I found budget creep is difficult to avoid.

[csmith]

Some people aren’t going to like this, but I don’t think you see a lot of budget builds because of lack of skill. It’s easier just to buy new. For a “budget” build you need to be able to think outside the box. The amount of people here that drop 20k plus on an engine etc just to put a few hundred miles a year on them is crazy. I’d bet most these cars are sold to another owner before they ever hit 10k miles.

Hey, I’ll admit it. This is me. It’s not that I couldn’t figure it out, but rather do I trust my judgment enough on which parts are salvageable without compromising safety? Since it’s not my domain I would, and did, just save extra for the new parts that have the added bonus of being under warranty.

For what it’s worth, I got a gen3 Coyote + TKX for $14k before the prices started going up last year, but that came completely assembled on an engine stand, and includes a 2 year / 24k mile warranty through Ford. That extra peace of mind was worth the extra expense in my opinion.

Also, who cares if the car gets sold? Someone is going to drive it. Personally I plan to drive mine when I can, but realistically that may not be a ton of miles per month. Would it be different if I just bought a mustang? Yeah, I’d probably drive the mustang less.

[Alex_V]

Well, i will contribute. There was nothing budget about my FFR order - IRS, Wilwood Brakes, Power Steering kit, replica wheels.... etc. All about 30K worth of a kit. Car is now at the bodyshop getting prepped for paint, and final assembly. That wont be cheap.

Where I saved tremendous amount of money is the powerplant. $15-@20K for crate motor just didn't sit right with my bank account. I bought a wrecked 2017 Mustang GT of Copart. Pulled the Gen II Coyote with M82 transmission, and sold the rest in parts. Mustang shell went to a scrap yard. Final cost (Wrecked GT minus all sold parts) came to be about $2K.

I thought that was a hell of a deal, although certain risks were taken.

183492183493

[narly1]

I think the trend away from donor to new parts builds is based on several factors that have created a "perfect storm" for that to be happening:

- current demographic: builders are typically older, thus maybe a little less physically able, but better off financially
- technology: better availability of new higher tech vs older/lower donor tech
- time: the reduced amount of spare time available and increased "impatience" (maybe or maybe not for good reason) based on the times we live in.

Earl

[BEAR-AvHistory]

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=183465&d=1501236068

Jeff

Hey Jeff,

What size tires do you have on the front? Picture looks a little bit knock kneed like mine.

[Dgc333]

I think the trend away from donor to new parts builds is based on several factors that have created a "perfect storm" for that to be happening:

- current demographic: builders are typically older, thus maybe a little less physically able, but better off financially
- technology: better availability of new higher tech vs older/lower donor tech
- time: the reduced availability of same and increased "impatience" (maybe or maybe not for good reason) based on the times we live in.

Earl

Earl, I agree with you. In my case a new drivetrain wasn't even a consideration. For me 1/2 the fun is building/rebuilding the drivetrain. Putting a Hemi in my Speedstar is primarily to be different and I am a Mopar guy at heart.

I am struggling with whether to paint mine or send it out. My wife wants me to send it out. I know I will get a better paint job if I do but it feels like a copout if I do.

The other factor is the Scottish blood flowing through my veins makes me very frugal, I am driven to save money. Things like Wildwood brakes certainly add to the WOW factor but for a 2500 lb vehicle that will never see the track Mustang brakes will more than get the job done so that's what I am using.

[Jeff Kleiner]

Hey Jeff,

What size tires do you have on the front? Picture looks a little bit knock kneed like mine.

In that photo the car had 255/40-17 in front (using 275/40-17 now). The "knock kneed" is because I run around 1.5 degrees negative camber and becomes even more apparent due to the camber change from having 8 degrees of caster.

Jeff

[BEAR-AvHistory]

Have the same knock knee with 275/40/17's. Wish I had done power steering.:(

https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/acurazine.com-vbulletin/850x779/80-275s_ec0c9a640de515747e408a45f387e0f53a2d0f16.jpg

[Wbauman]

I've been around since 2002 and have seen numerous builds. I don't post much anymore but still lurk. It amazes me the amount of money spent on these cars. I personally couldn't ever drop 50 to 60k on a build. Many may not believe me but I completed six builds. I had 4 that were straight donor build with very few options. I only used the items that added "bling" for sales purposes. I completed the 4 donor builds for 17k each and that included paint! I was getting these cars painted for 2500.00 dollars and Im here to tell you there were beautiful paint jobs not some backyard hack. I then sold the last one and took my entire amount and built the car I intended to keep for myself and spent 25K . This car had many options and a stout motor. I then paid 3500 to paint this car. The painter said that black required more of him and that's why the increase. I was upset about the 1k increase. ( I know you guys are laughing about a 3500 dollar paint job when today they are 7 to 10k.

The final car was 27k. This car has all new parts including a 347 stroker that's EFI. The only used parts were the pedal box and the harness. The last car was done in 2007.

I made decent money selling the donor builds. You had to keep the costs down in order to appeal to the market that had 25k to spend. I feel that back then this was the limit of what people would throw away at a toy. I know today that is not the case.

I'd love to build another but the cost of parts these days is what stops me. Ill just continue to drive this one and make upgrades.

[mior6485]

I wish I was hitting those numbers mentioned. I received my complete kit from FFR MKIV and Im at 65K without misc and paint

MKIV complete kit
Forte 427 Dart Block and TKX trans
Willwood all around
Borla Stack Injection
Narrowed 8.8 from Levy Racing
QA-1 Shocks
All aluminum Cerakoted
Custom Pin drive width halibrands in bronze

[tony]

I built a 33 hotrod, but I imagine similar to a roadster build. I went with a blueprint 347 with holley sniper system. Luckily, the biggest savings I had easily was buying a full kit plus transmission, tires and rearend for $12k back in 2018 from the owner who had just barely started it from 2012. I ended up at $37k total. Paint was $6500 with me doing most of the fitting and body work.
183546

[Wbauman]

There has definitely been a shift from the FF culture of “ if you have our kit and a donor you can be driving a cobra”

The builds are getting bigger and bigger every year. There is still something to be said about a true budget build or close to the original concept.

The Smiths created a car just about anyone could afford to build with a donor.

[cob427sc]

I built my first roadster in 1998 using a fox body mustang as a donor. Stripped all the parts out including the wiring harness and used everything except upgraded to some better gauges. The kit back then was $9995 and FFR for another $2000 had the bodywork done and painted prior to my pickup! At the time, I figured I had about $16,000 into the car.

[MB750]

I built my first roadster in 1998 using a fox body mustang as a donor. Stripped all the parts out including the wiring harness and used everything except upgraded to some better gauges. The kit back then was $9995 and FFR for another $2000 had the bodywork done and painted prior to my pickup! At the time, I figured I had about $16,000 into the car.

This is some interesting perspective. If I recall correctly, back then an OG Shelby Cobra (not a special one, or famous racer) could be had for a quarter mil too.

Now Fox Body Mustangs are worth a mint even in terrible condition, replica Cobras go for between $50K and $100K, and OG Shelby Cobras are 2 Mil all day.

[Tooth]

I'm impressed. My "complete kit" cost 2-3 times more than some of these builds.

[edwardb]

Been holding back on this thread, but will post FWIW. The original question was "So What is a Budget Build Today?" My emphasis. Citing examples from way back when is interesting, I guess, but not sure how that is responsive to the original question. Shoot, my first house cost less than my first FFR kit. My house payments were less than I currently pay monthly for property taxes. But I'm old and hardly means anything today in either the housing market or the hobby car market. And (fortunately) my income has changed from those days too. There is no question the market has changed from the original $9,995 and a Fox body Mustang gets you a Cobra. But that's kind of in line with my first house point.

I think the major points have been covered: (1) Fox body Mustangs, which back in the day were a dime a dozen and the basis for a budget build, are today mostly either too good to tear down or too far gone to tear down. Even for good ones the parts are getting quite old. Plus Factory Five has, over the years, been adding parts of their own that significantly improve the final product. (2) No question the builds are more upscale than they used to be. Whether it's engines, transmissions, suspension parts including IRS, higher end paint, etc. I've seen that even in my builds. My first Mk3 Roadster had a donor/rebuilt 302, a tired T-5z, 4-link, and mostly stock kit parts. That was in 2009. My total cost on that build won't even buy a complete kit today. Each subsequent build I've done has gotten more expensive. But I've never suggested mine are low budget builds.

Today's builders are faced with obviously higher kit and parts costs (like everything else), probably less available time to build so harvesting even select donor parts to control the budget isn't a great option for some, coupled with what seems to be a higher expectation for the final product in terms of options, finishes, etc. If you have the time and are willing to do your homework, no question there's money to be saved with selective donor parts. Along with sparing the HP and options. But buying a base kit and filling it out with a single donor, like the original business model, is probably a thing of the past. I see the floor for an aggressive donor/budget build to be in the $35 - 40K range. That's if you pay to have the paint done. Complete new builds obviously go up from there. Anyone getting into this expecting less is going to be surprised and perhaps disappointed IMO. That's how I see it anyway.

[Alan_C]

I has been a long time since I even looked at the Factory Five website and checked on the MK4 pricing. Wow, a base kit goes for $15K now and a complete kit is at $21K. Back in 2011, FF had a couple sales a year with incentives thrown in too. I went with a base kit and added 3-link, lower tubular A-arms, modular engine aluminum kit, 9 and 10.5 inch lookalike halibrand wheels and the whole package came out to about $17K. So a bit of sticker shock to say the least.

[Blitzboy54]

Speaking of budget builds. This guy built a GT40 amongst other cars from near scratch for 25k.

He does a series of videos about how he did it. This is the first one. Really fun watch.


https://youtu.be/BYN-aUF9AsI

[cob427sc]

edwardb your correct. Although my first build in 1998 was dirt cheap by todays standards, it would be impossible to build a "budget" build now for under $30,000. My second build was in 2001 and I was already around $27,000 using a 2000 donor. My next roadster build was in 2012 using a complete kit, Blueprint engine & transmission and doing my own body work got me into the $31,000 range. That was 11 years ago. Nothing has gotten cheaper and if I build another roadster I would start with a $40,000 budget.

[CaptB]

What's interesting is the span of years really splits what a budget build is. I would think someone that bought before Covid that their budget build would be less than today. Just like someone 7 years would be different than today.
As far as budget, that's also a pretty squishy word. If you mean who can build it cheaper than anyone else, we've seen that award here. What's great about this group of people is that we see a pretty broad range of affordability, which is cool. In my mind my budget build is what I built, because it is done the way I wanted it to be done. FYI I'm pushing the $60K plus budget now, which I'm cool with.

Capt. B

[Tom Welch]

I just totaled up my build and it came up to $38K
I bought the complete kit Plus a few upgrades $21k
Blueprint Engines 302 $5k
Rebuilt t5 $1800
When to Pull-a-part and found a 1995 Ford 8.8 from a Mustang GT $150 but rebuild the entire thing with 3:55, beefier axels, pos, and Cobra brakes from PowerStop $1500
I did all the bodywork myself
Paint/primer/filler, etc approx $2500
Wheels/Tires $2k
Ceramic coat side pipes $500
I got real lucky however. I had a Friend (former auto body teacher do the actual painting for $1000)
Lots of misc parts (security,push button start, etc)
Cut and buffed myself.
Total time about 18 month effort. Delivered Sept 2020, Finished July 2022
183632

Like many others have said, you can go crazy with the engine, interior, radio etc, but I'm betting I have just as much fun as others driving my sub $40k around as a $100k one.
I kept mine simple, easy inexpensive to maintain. If the sun is shining, I'm out cruising :) Oh... Insurance is cheaper with 300hp than 600-800hp. lol

[otto halstead]

I've been thinking about my builds and years ago I built a MKII for right at $30K. After 6000 miles it was totaled in a wreck,(it was rebuildable, but the insurance said it was totaled). The insurance valued it at $42K but the lady and her insurance only came up with $30K, so I got exactly what I paid for it and I kept the car which I then proceeded to part out. picked up about $8k extra and I kept several components.

I ordered and am working on a MKIV. I just checked my invoice and I paid $16149.00 FFR had a sale of 50% off on options at the time so I ordered the base kit and loaded up. I also had lots of small stuff from my previous MKII.

So this is what I have:
MKIV base kit
powder coat frame
cut outs
polished side pipes
Ron Francis wiring harness
Ford EFI harness
front hood hinge
11.65" rear brakes
Wildwood pedals
radiator
oil filter relocation
chrome drivers side roll bar
tubular front lower control arms
FFR front spindles
brake duct mesh
roll bar grommets
3 link
Koni coil over shocks
manual steering rack

Items from Venders, Breeze, North Racecars, Whitby, Finish Line, FFMetal and others:

8.8" 3.73 rear end
FR500 17" chrome wheels and Nitto tires
radiator mount
polished radiator tubes
floor mats
chrome quick jacks
heated seats
forward firewall
under trunk mount battery box
13" front brakes
fan shroud
Cam Lock seat belts
Tangent Leather wrap steering wheel
Tangent roll bar mount
Rod to hold trunk open
front deflector for radiator
dual chrome bullet mirrors
SS windshield inserts
Adjustable rear lower control arms
Wildwood brake bias adjuster

Items left over from my MKII (read free):

306 cu in ford motor originally from 89 GT (rebuilt prior to use in MKII)
AOD transmission (rebuilt by me) w/ 2400 B&M torq converter
drive shaft
Lokar shifter
Lokar parking brake
windwings
visors
external trans oil cooler and filter
external battery connectors
wire mesh headlight protectors
center console

Items I probably won't use from the MKII and may sell;

Whitby Soft Top and Tonneau cover

At this point I have paid out just under $24K and if you deduct the $8K I made on the sale of excess parts I'm at $16K less paint which I will do myself as I did previously.

[Windsor]

On the note of "donor cars are getting hard to find," perhaps Factory Five could update the chassis (Mark V?) to take sixth-gen Mustang (2015-2023 model years) components where it doesn't already use them:
* Getrag transmission
* spindles/brakes/front hubs
* footbox goodies
* steering rack
* seats

If they're feeling spicy, add the V6 and I4 engine options.

[MB750]

On the note of "donor cars are getting hard to find," perhaps Factory Five could update the chassis (Mark V?) to take sixth-gen Mustang (2015-2023 model years) components where it doesn't already use them:
* Getrag transmission
* spindles/brakes/front hubs
* footbox goodies
* steering rack
* seats

If they're feeling spicy, add the V6 and I4 engine options.

As sacralicious as it might be, those economy engines Ford put in some later Mustangs actually do have some snort. And they're cheaper on the used or wrecked market.

[Windsor]

forgot to add "fuel tank" to the above list.