View Full Version : Terry's LS MK4 Build - Off to Paint!
Wow, it seems way longer than the 14 months it's been since I placed my order (yes I pushed the date so I could finish other projects). During this time I've spent countless hours reading build threads, asking questions, asking more questions, making plans, changing plans, and watching about every FFR youtube video I could find.
Stewart arrives tomorrow, so a good time to start my build thread.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=182813&d=1681231245
My roadster experience is of a somewhat different, lower-powered type... a failed restoration of an Alfa Spider when I was young and stupid (and no money). Then didn't learn (of course), bought a '74 Spider, and rebuilt it into a super fun roadster with great Italian sound and quirky mechanical fuel injection. Four kids arrived (not all at once), so went on a car hiatus until I bought a 2009 Miata and built it for SCCA STR autocross (what a blast, even though the car was way faster than the driver). And my last one, which I sold a couple years ago, was a pristine 2003 Miata that I supercharged with a Eaton TVS900. During this entire time however, the Cobra has always been the pinnacle of roadsters to me. So it's time, and the garage is ready:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=183169&d=1681853129
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=182814&d=1681231245
* Special shout-out to Mike in TX (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?42007-Mike-in-Texas-FFR-Roadster-Build-Making-Lots-of-Dust) for the body buck and dolly, but most of all for great advice and continuous attempts to spend my money. :D
My vision is a clean looking street Cobra without stripes, hood scoop, or side pipes. I'd really prefer no roll bar, but I negotiated with my wife on that decision so the car will have two. In terms of engine, I'm planning to go with some variant of the LS3 crate engine. Strangely enough, this choice goes back to my Miata days... I've always been mesmerized by this engine in a small roadster since Flyin' Miata started transforming these little cars with them (https://www.caranddriver.com/reviews/a15097317/flyin-miata-habu-mx-5-v-8-test-review/). Interesting side note, I believe FM supplies FFR with sway bars (I think).
Build Details
Complete Kit
IRS / 3.55 Torsen
Bare Chassis
No body cut-outs
Manual brakes (2015+ rears and Cobra fronts)
Hydraulic clutch
Power steering
Leather steering wheel
Breeze roll bars, front battery, cubby etc.
E-Stopp parking brake
18" Halibrands
LS mounts
LS headers (ordered these in case my under-car exhaust plans change; at the very least I can use them during go-kart)
Thanks to so many on this forum for inspiration and awesome build threads.
460.465USMC
04-18-2023, 09:45 PM
A warm welcome, Terry! And an early congrats on tomorrow's delivery. I'm a bowtie guy at heart, so you have kindred spirits here on the forum. A local builder here in Spokane area, Jim Frahm, is well into his LS Roadster build.
Enjoy the big day tomorrow, and don't forget to take and post some pictures.
Thanks Chris. Yes, I have followed Jim's build closely, he's doing a nice job.
Yesterday was the big day, and Mark from Stewart was awesome and really worked hard to help me get everything up the driveway and into the garage. I have to say though, after everything was in the garage and Mark left, I had a brief feeling of "ok, now what?" On to inventory. Fortunately my POL is pretty short, and hopefully I don't end up with a large MIK list. I know there's been a lot of discussion about fasteners, and I'm happy to say my POL contains very few. After inventory I'll get the body removed and hoisted to the ceiling, take lots of photos of the panels, then strip it down to the frame and start prepping for powder coat. I've received some great tips about chassis prep from a couple forum members, but I'm always open to input.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=183242&d=1682009640
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=183240&d=1682008896
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=183244&d=1682009840
I completed the inventory process and my MIK list only contains a few items (at least that I know of now; we'll see once I start building ;)). With some help I was able to get the body off the frame and up to the ceiling. It was an easy process, but I imagine it's pretty stressful to maneuver one that's been finished/painted.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=183375&d=1682337491
Got the aluminum panels removed to expose the bare frame. My plan is to add a few grounding posts (or alternatively, grounding nuts as my neighbor Alex suggested, which I think is a great idea). He'll help me TIG them to the frame. I'm very pleasantly surprised about the lack of prep the frame needs -- I was expecting to see a lot of weld spatter and boogered welds, but it's amazingly clean and I really can't find much to clean-up at all. Media blasting will take care of most of the minor stuff. Maybe I'll have a different opinion about the welds when I start fitting panels, but overall the FFR welding guys did a great job. I also started playing around with the FFMetal F-Panels, just out of curiosity for fit. It looks like only a minimal amount of trimming will be needed, but ultra-precision isn't critical for these particular pieces. It's evident how much more wheel clearance they provide over the FFR pieces.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=183376&d=1682337491
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=183381&d=1682337554
Mike (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/member.php?32376-Mike-Bray) made a good point about making some adjustments to the receiver for the door latch if FFR hadn't done so already to accommodate the new latch design. Ted G did a nice job with this, as you can see here (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?45224-New-Door-Latches-Old-Style-Door-Tabs). Fortunately (according to my eyeball calipers) it appears FFR actually did make changes to the frame. I'll check with FFR unless someone reading this can confirm.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=183377&d=1682337491
On to the next steps... scheduling the powder coater, and addressing some parts prep.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=183380&d=1682337554
Blitzboy54
04-24-2023, 07:45 AM
I love seeing delivery pics on build threads. It's the best day, like Christmas morning when you're 8 years old. Congratulations on starting your journey. I'll be following for sure.
Not a ton of progress, just getting the chassis ready for powder coat.
I removed the parking brake brackets... my plan is to go with E-Stopp, but I may also choose to use a Miata parking brake and keep things simple, so I left the rear-most bracket in place.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=183768&d=1682811368
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=183767&d=1682811368
I also removed the small pieces of square tube in preparation for the Breeze radiator support.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=183769&d=1682811368
And just out of curiosity, I tested my table saw on an old IRS knuckle that I couldn't even give away (I have new ones). Using a carbide-tip finish blade, it cut the aluminum without drama. In fact better and easier than some hardwoods. Nice clean cut.
Next step is to roll the chassis to my neighbor's garage so he can weld the grounding nuts and/or posts. Then to powder coat!
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=183770&d=1682811368
VKannan
04-30-2023, 09:52 PM
Subscribing! I just started building my complete kit two weeks ago and I am also using an LS3 crate engine. I opted for the 430hp variant to maximize my reliability for long road trips, but they all seem great. I was also influenced by growing up wanting an LS swapped import, but instead of the Miata it was the RX-7 for me. The FF will be better than either of those though!
Great to see a fellow LS'er.
The stainless grounding nuts and studs are welded in, thanks to my friend next door. There are eight in total :eek::
1/4" studs on each corner and under the trunk
two 1/4" nuts on the firewall cross member
a 3/8" nut on the PS motor mount.
Maybe (almost definitely) overkill, but at least they're available if I need them. Plus it didn't take much more time to do eight vs two or thee. Wish I knew how to weld.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=184054&d=1683248054
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=184053&d=1683246813
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=184052&d=1683246813
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=184051&d=1683246813
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=184050&d=1683246813
And she's loaded up for the drive to the powder coater tomorrow. Still not 100% sure about color... hoping to get inspired when I get there and make a final decision. Silver, gray metallic, or good old chassis black. Or just clear... kidding.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=184049&d=1683246764
460.465USMC
05-04-2023, 10:18 PM
And she's loaded up for the drive to the powder coater tomorrow. Still not 100% sure about color... hoping to get inspired when I get there and make a final decision. Silver, gray metallic, or good old chassis black. Or just clear... kidding.
The patina look became quite popular on hot rods. Maybe you could start a new trend on chassis patina. :p
Those extra ground points will be handy. Nice! (Wish I knew how to weld too).
This is a bit delayed, but I picked up the chassis from the powder coat shop about a week ago and couldn't happier with the result. It's called Anthracite Metallic by Tiger Coatings, a base plus clear coat. I had an idea of what I was looking for when I dropped off the chassis, but hadn't chosen a color yet. Luckily the owner helped me narrow things down and made this recommendation.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=184808&d=1684852903
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=184811&d=1684852903
My only regret is that I forgot to tell the shop to mask the roll-bar mounts and inside of the differential mounts. Ugh. Not a huge deal... after roughing up with 80 grit paper, I brushed on some Klean Strip Premium Stripper (https://kleanstrip.com/premium-strippers/adhesive-remover-non-methylene-chloride/)and wrapped with plastic. After a couple hours the PC was soft enough to scrape off and then sand with 180. The roll bar now slides right on.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=185194&d=1685474126
I may do the same with the differential mounts, as the bushings will fit, but not without some encouragement. It likely won't make a difference either way.
I've started to fit the panels, and intend to bring ALL of them to the PC shop as a full set. Not sure about color yet (big surprise), but thinking silver, black, or the same as the chassis. It really only matters for the engine bay, but it's kind of a permanent decision. Open to opinions although I realize it's a super subjective thing.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=185195&d=1685474367
My original plan was to drill and fit all panels prior to PC, and I did this for the driver foot box. However now I'm thinking I'll just check fitment (without drilling) to confirm there are no major issues like I encountered with the right panel of the driver foot box as it meets the "A" piece. (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?46206-Driver-foot-box-panel-gap) What a pain, but it turned out fine:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=184973&d=1685190149
The other panels seem to fit really well, especially those aft of the foot boxes, so I'm not concerned moving forward.
Ted G
05-30-2023, 02:41 PM
Mike (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/member.php?32376-Mike-Bray) made a good point about making some adjustments to the receiver for the door latch if FFR hadn't done so already to accommodate the new latch design. Ted G did a nice job with this, as you can see here (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?45224-New-Door-Latches-Old-Style-Door-Tabs). Fortunately (according to my eyeball calipers) it appears FFR actually did make changes to the frame. I'll check with FFR unless someone reading this can confirm.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=183377&d=1682337491
It looks like they did do the adjustment to those tabs.... Lucky you!!
It's been a while since my last update... like most people, other commitments get in the way of progress. Fortunately speed isn't one of my objectives.
I was able to get the differential installed. This is a 3.55 Torsen from a 2021 Mustang. I had it inspected by a gear shop in Fort Worth and they said it looks great... no surprise as these are pretty robust, but peace of mind is worth the few bucks. They installed new axle seals as well.
I chose to clean up the factory black finish with VHT satin black case paint. Pretty pleased with how it turned out.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=186396&d=1687812370
Then on to installation. I borrowed my neighbor's engine hoist (thanks Alex) and got the diff into place pretty easily. My wife cranked it up while I encouraged it into place.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=186395&d=1687812370
Quick tip that I can't take credit for because I'm sure I saw this on the forum somewhere else... take a few minutes to shape a couple 5/8" bolts into drift pins. It makes the installation a heck of a lot easier.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=186391&d=1687812158
Glad to have this done...
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=186388&d=1687812158
I was able to get the front suspension installed this weekend. Aside from the 100+ temps here in TX, all went well. I shortened the rear adjustment hardware on each UCA to ensure I have enough caster adjustment, as others have done as well. I've done a ton of suspension work in the past, but no experience with adjustable UCA's. They're pretty cool. I also made sure the Koni's were set to full soft as recommended by FFR and others -- we'll see how that works on the road, but I'm a loooong way from worrying about that.
Yes I know a few bolts aren't torqued yet... I marked those that are.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=186397&d=1687812370
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=186389&d=1687812158
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=186392&d=1687812158
Windsor
06-26-2023, 09:24 PM
Your steering arms (that bolt onto the spindles) appear to be backwards.
They should be pointing slightly outward instead of slightly inward.
mosh1999
06-26-2023, 10:14 PM
Love the powder coating, did they sand or bead blast before painting?
Your steering arms (that bolt onto the spindles) appear to be backwards.
They should be pointing slightly outward instead of slightly inward.
Good catch, you're probably right. I literally threw those on loosely before ending for the [extremely hot] day. Appreciate the heads-up.
Love the powder coating, did they sand or bead blast before painting?
Thanks, yes they blasted before powder coating.
Windsor
06-27-2023, 09:00 PM
I literally threw those on loosely before ending for the [extremely hot] day. Appreciate the heads-up.
Roger that "hot day" business. I'm about 40mi NE of you as the crow flies.
I installed the hubs this weekend, but ran into a snag (pun intended) with the FFR-supplied Mevotech units. As others have noted, these often don't just slide on like they should (do not force them!). During my initial fitting, I hit resistance at about an 1/8" of engagement on the spindle. I gently removed the hub and part of it decided to stay. I ended up with this:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=187050&d=1688999146
I never really liked the quality of the Mevotechs based on what I saw and felt, but I know they've worked well for many. Despite that, I pulled the emory cloth from my plumbing tool box and polished the spindle. The second hub went on further, but again I gently pulled it when I hit the least amount of resistance. Same result as above. Ugh. Now I know these are largely held together by the preload of the axle nut and maybe I could have just popped them back together, but this did not give me confidence. Screw it, gonna buy new ones. The local NAPA store was having their monthly 30%-off sale, so I picked up a set of their premium hubs manufactured by SKF (good!). Still made in China, but what isn't these days.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=187048&d=1688999114
These units are clearly much higher quality... tighter, no grease oozing out the seals, etc. I'm not sure if the studs are black for cosmetic reasons or if they're a higher grade steel. Doesn't really matter, as I was happy with the purchase. I will say though, regardless of the hubs you use, be sure to clearance the spindles with emory cloth or equivalent. It doesn't take much, but it makes a huge difference.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=187044&d=1688999114
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=187047&d=1688999114
I realized I didn't removed the ABS tone rings until after I torqued the axle nut (of course), so a few quick passes of the dremel and they popped right off.
I got the P/S rack installed. The [URL="https://breezeautomotive.com/shop/offset-rack-mounting-kit-for-ffr-roadster-and-coupe/"]Breeze mounting kit/URL] is awesome and makes centering the rack a simple process. There's not much to installing the rack other than figuring out how to fit it in. I also used Moog tie-rod ends.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=187045&d=1688999114
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=187049&d=1688999146
Clearly I need to get better at posting along the way instead of in batches. :rolleyes:
Anyway, front brakes installed. I went with the 13" Cobra brakes (these are from RockAuto), as I omitted the FFR brakes from my initial order. I suppose I should have known they're aluminum -- much lighter than I expected. Should be plenty of stopping power. The calipers could use some cosmetic attention, but that's easy to do later. Nobody will really see them anyway.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=187046&d=1688999114
Small update... got the steering hardware installed and quite pleased that I didn't have to install the bearing inside the firewall. Maybe FFR took note and shortened the lower shaft?
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=187777&d=1690247288
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=187779&d=1690247288
I also installed the pedal box, but waiting on the MC's because I'm going to use Tiltons. So I'll have a two unopened Wilwood 3/4 MC's available in anyone is interested. I decided not to powder coat the pedal box brackets since they're stainless and will be out of sight. I actually like the way they look.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=187778&d=1690247288
That's all for now... next update post will be IRS, rear brakes etc., all of which are almost done.
I got the rear calipers installed. They came from a 2021 Mustang that only lasted about 300 miles before its demise... likely while leaving a Cars & Coffee event if I had to guess. :) Rotors are new, obviously.
The OCD side of me says I should paint the front and rear calipers to match (fronts are silver), but that side lost. I have the factory parking brake cables, so my plan is to modify them to work with an E-Stopp.
As far as I know, I shouldn't have any clearance issues since I'm going with 18" Halibrands.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=187841&d=1690412864
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=187840&d=1690412864
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=187839&d=1690412864
With the calipers installed, I figured I'd test the wheel fitment. Given these are the 18x11's and 18x9's (from FFR), I was 99.99% sure there would be no clearance issues. BUT who doesn't like to install new wheels, just because? I was right... no issues. Reminder that these are the 2015+ 13" factory brakes in the rear and the 13" Cobra brakes in the front.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=187936&d=1690643158
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=187939&d=1690643158
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=187938&d=1690643158
I also test fit the Breeze battery box... unfortunately it doesn't quite fit well in its intended location. There is a gap between the tray and the X tube as described in the instructions, however the gap only exists on the inboard side of the box. Sliding the box to the the middle of the frame results in a perfect fit. However I don't know if this position will conflict with the front end of the engine and/or coolant lines, so I'm going to hold off until I can test fit with the engine etc, as suggested by JunBug in a separate thread (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?46807-Breeze-battery-box).
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=187937&d=1690643158
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=187940&d=1690643158
Up next... fit the GM gas pedal (https://www.summitracing.com/parts/nal-10379038), close up the inboard side of the DS footbox, install the MC's, and get the hard lines run.
I decided to get the gas pedal installed before I close up the inside of the DS foot box, and I knew it would take some thinking and some light fabrication since it's not a standard FFR part. I bought GM p/n 10379038, which is the same pedal that comes in the LS3 controller kit. There are other aftermarket units available, but I chose to stick with OEM because I know compatibility will be good (even with EFI systems like Holley Terminator X if I go that route).
The design of the pedal is good in that it's not a big chunk of plastic like the Coyote pedal, so there is is some built-in flexibility for mounting options and the pedal itself. There are three main pieces... the bracket, the actual mechanism, and the pedal.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=188125&d=1690851834
Now I needed to figure out how to get it installed, and I have a few objectives 1) correct placement, 2) don't make it look like a hack-job, and 3) access/serviceability. I spent some time clamping it in different positions and came up with ideas for a couple of brackets. Mike Bray (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/member.php?32376-Mike-Bray) came over the next day to give me another set of eyes. Glad he did because he looked at it differently and offered a great idea loosely based on the Breeze pedal solution that hangs off the 3/4" tube. It basically involves removing the steel bracket from the GM pedal, fabricating and attaching it to a 1/4" aluminum plate, and then securing two 3/4" pieces of aluminum stock to the plate -- these clamp the chassis tube using set screws in the lower piece.
My first mockup using MDF, 1x3, a few screws, and super-glue (think I could just leave it like that? :D)
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=188126&d=1690851834
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=188128&d=1690851834
And how it fits on the 3/4" tube:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=188124&d=1690851834
The idea is that I can slide the assembly up or down the 3/4" tube for some adjustment flexibility, and lock in place with set screws from the bottom. Not a ton, but enough to make a difference. And to make more room l'll likely remove the standard welded mounting plate. The most notable obstacle is the sensor connector, so I'll need to make sure that's still accessible. Worst case I can connect it and then mount the assembly.
Here's the initial pedal placement.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=188127&d=1690851834
Not bad for a quick mockup that took 15 minutes to put together. It still needs to move forward so the pedal sits somewhat behind the brake pedal. GM recommends 2", but that seems like a lot... especially in such a small space. The good thing is that I don't need to worry too much about where the plastic pedal lands because I can modify it or replace it with something custom/aftermarket. But I think it might just work out the way it is.
Didn't intend to get so lengthy here. Ideas, observations, etc. welcome as always.
Finally got the gas pedal done - this TX heat wave really slows things down. I'm clearly not a fabricator, but I play one on the internet :)
Super happy with how it came out. Removing the welded bracket provided a significant amount of room to push the assembly forward and place the pedal in a proper position. The whole assembly is easily removable from within the foot box if needed, and it has a couple inches of adjustability along that 3/4" tube. Two set screws on the lower piece make it rock solid -- there's no lateral play whatsoever when I exercise the pedal or try to move it by hand. I don't know if I'll keep the factory plastic pedal piece, but it appears like it will work just fine. I didn't see a need to pretty it up anymore than what you see given it can't be seen without crawling into the foot box. Just a little touch up on the 3/4" tube and it will be all set -- I needed to grind the welds and clearance some of the powder coat (one of several heat-induced brain lapses caused me to sand down outside of the 3/4 tube :().
Thanks again to Mike B. for the idea.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=188416&d=1691365483
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=188415&d=1691365483
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=188414&d=1691365483
Not a ton of progress due to other commitments.... and this:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=189875&d=1694211917
However, I've managed to get a few things done. First, the brake master cylinders are installed. I was going to swap the Wilwoods for Tiltons, but decided that I'll have a ton of time to figure out if these leak. Plus I'm installing the fuse panel in the trunk, which will make replacement that much easier if it ever comes to that. Odds are I'll be fine. The clutch MC will be a Tilton.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=189876&d=1694211917
Also, continuing with the brake system are the hard lines themselves. I've decided to go stainless with AN fittings throughout and run bulkhead fittings out of the footbox. I've done a ton of brake work in the past, but not stainless lines, and certainly not 37 degree AN flares. Not worried because I've got my stainless line maestro friend (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?45694-Stainless-Steel-AN-Brake-Lines) down the street. I don't really have room to run the rear line inside the footbox because the gas pedal assembly is in the way. That's ok -- I'll just run the line towards the front and then down and back along the 4" tube. Easy.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=189874&d=1694211917
(that's just dust on the aluminum, not a rash in the powder coat)
All four brackets are done with fittings installed. I've said it before... I'm not a fabricator, but I play one on the forum.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=189877&d=1694211917
And the final update... this just arrived today. I originally planned to use the RF harness and install the fuse box under the PS dash. After thinking about it more I decided to install it in the trunk, likely on the rear of the Breeze cubby divider. The RF harness won't work for that, so I ordered one from Rebel Wire and sold the RF to another builder. Rebel makes them to order, and this particular 16 circuit harness is designed for trunk install. I also had them install LED flashers instead of the normal units. It's heavy duty SXL wire, which is great but maybe not as ideal in tight places. I think it will be fine.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=189878&d=1694211917
Hello Terry, I just came across your thread. Great work! My Roadster will also have a LS. It seems as though it is becoming a little more common.
I look forward to following your progress.
Hello Terry, I just came across your thread. Great work! My Roadster will also have a LS. It seems as though it is becoming a little more common.
I look forward to following your progress.
Thanks Jeff, yes I agree the LS seems to be a more common (and dare I say accepted) option. Great fit, awesome power, and a ton of flexibility.
A few brake lines are in... the fronts and the rear DS to PS leg (not pictured). Just need to run the main rear line and the lines inside the foot box. Not sure where I'm going to have the clutch line exit the foot box yet.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=190125&d=1694819659
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=190127&d=1694819659
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=190126&d=1694819659
460.465USMC
09-16-2023, 12:49 PM
Brake lines look great, Terry. Nice work. What bender did you use on those hair pin 180 deg bends?
Thanks Chris. I bought a new (but 25 year old) Ridgid bender off eBay. It's super precise and easy to use. This is the 3/16 unit, and I bought a 3/8 too.
190144
Mike.Bray
09-16-2023, 05:18 PM
Thanks Chris. I bought a new (but 25 year old) Ridgid bender off eBay. It's super precise and easy to use. This is the 3/16 unit, and I bought a 3/8 too.
190144
Unfortunately Ridgid doesn't make these great lever benders anymore which is very sad. If you can't find one on eBay Fragola (https://fragolaperformancesystems.com/product/lever-tubing-benders/) make similar ones.
If you're going to do AN hard lines this thread (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?45694-Stainless-Steel-AN-Brake-Lines) might be of interest to you Chris.
cc2Arider
09-17-2023, 11:06 AM
Hi Terry,
I agree...nice work on your brake lines! For what it's worth, I just bought a Ridgid 3/16" tube bender, since I've been inspired by work such as yours, Mike's, Paul's, etc -- very clean-looking!
Hi Mike,
I'm hoping that the Ridgid bender I got works just as well as the one you've mentioned. It is made in China...soooo :rolleyes: We'll see...
Craig C
Continued with the brake lines and got the first leg of the rear lines in. I chose to run it forward, then down and back along the 4" tube because I didn't want the line sitting right next to the header (and as a reminder, my gas pedal assembly doesn't allow me to run it down the inside corder of the foot box). It would be awfully difficult to make the entire run with a seamless piece, so I chose to run a coupler just before it transitions to the rearward run.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=190391&d=1695576587
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=190394&d=1695576930
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=190392&d=1695576587
I got some lightweight stuff done today, like finalizing the reservoir install and addressing the unsealed Tilton reservoir caps (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?47299-Tilton-Triple-Reservoir).
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=190395&d=1695577314
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=190396&d=1695577402
The long screws through the 3/4 tube are by design. Since the body will be sitting on top of the screw heads, I won't be able to hold the screw from the top. This way I'll be able to hold it by double-nutting the bottom end of the screw. I'm probably over thinking it.
This arrived today... made by Ron Davis for MK4 LS application. Hadn't planned on buying and likely overkill, but I got a deal from a would-be builder that I couldn't pass up. I like that the inlet and outlet are on the correct side for the LS, and there's a steam port.
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The hard lines are done. Just need to get flex lines and bleed the master cylinders. I'm not sure if I'll run a hard line to a bulkhead fitting for the clutch, or just run a flex line the entire way.
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cc2Arider
10-02-2023, 10:58 AM
Hi Terry!
It looks like you used bulkhead fittings for your front brake hard-line-to-flex-line junction...and it looks like you made your own bracket. What was the hole diameter of the thru-hole (probably for an AN-3 size)?
I'm trying to figure out if I can use the FFR-supplied bracket, or if that hole is too big for the AN-3 sized hardware :)
Thanks for your feedback!
Craig C
Craig, the hole diameter on those brackets is 3/8 I believe, as the 3AN fitting is a 3/8-24 thread.
The flex lines by Goodridge are installed and the brakes are bled. No leaks under full pressure, so that made me happy.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=191491&d=1698105792
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=191492&d=1698105792
The radiator was a little bit of a project. As I mentioned previously, I ended up with a Ron Davis unit that a would-be-builder unloaded because he chose to take on a different project. The flanges are too short for the Breeze supports, so I had two pieces of aluminum angle welded to it. It worked out very nicely. The setup is way more than I need (it's sized for a 1000 hp LS), but I shouldn't have any radiator-related cooling issues.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=191484&d=1698105759
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=191487&d=1698105759
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=191490&d=1698105792
Given that wiring is next, I decided to install the Breeze cubby divider and the battery tray. And because I'm installing the fuse box in the trunk, I stiffened up the divider with a piece of 1/8" aluminum. It's super sturdy. I didn't bring it all the way to the top of the Breeze piece because I figure it will be easier to install the bulb seal. It will all be covered with sound deadener and carpet anyway. I'm pretty sure I'm going to cut a full-width access hole into the rear cockpit wall. Also, I've decided not to use the FFR trunk hinges because I feel like they'll just get in the way. An old-school prop-rod will work just fine.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=191485&d=1698105759
You can see the general location of the fuse box. I'll use a Seals-It split grommet (https://sealsit.com/product/split-grommet-seal-2-piece/)to seal it all up. Split fuel hose will prevent any wire damage in the meantime.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=191486&d=1698105759
And finally, the battery tray. Fairly straightforward, but I had to address the gap due to the X member and the 4" tube not being parallel:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=187937&d=1690643158
I found that mounting the rear part of the box directly against the 4" tube and then pulling the front plate to the X members worked well. The gap is gone, or at least unnoticeable. I debated about powder-coating the box, but I actually like the raw stainless look.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=191493&d=1698105792
cc2Arider
10-24-2023, 08:01 AM
Hi Terry,
The battery box installation looks good :)
Those rivets almost look like button head bolts :cool: and I was going to ask how you got the tool in there...
Craig C
^^ Craig - the rivet tool fits in there with no problem.
Got the fuse box mount fabbed up and installed.
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WCPaynter
10-29-2023, 03:05 AM
I enjoy following along on this build. Very nicely done, very clean, great attention to detail. I will be doing an LS build as well so I like to see the things each builder does to innovate and overcome obstacles so we can all create a superior end result with minimal mistakes. Many have done what you are doing but not all have shared in such detail. Watching several LS builders and taking in a lot of info. Just a big thank you for sharing your dream and info! It is greatly appreciated!
The wiring has started in earnest and I'm working on it circuit by circuit. I might have mentioned previously that I have a ton of experience with residential wiring, but only a little automotive. It's a different thing, so I'm taking a very (maybe overly) methodical process to getting things right. Many of you may shake your head when you read this, but it's what makes sense to me.
I'm happy with the Rebel Wire harness, and the wire they use is clearly high quality.. I'm kind of on my own because while Rebel is known for their high quality harnesses, they aren't known for their schematics. Correction -- they don't supply any, so I'm creating one for each circuit after I confirm it's working. I really enjoy the process and I'll know what every wire does when I'm done.
It's definitely going to look worse before it looks better, and it's more organized than it looks (really, it is :)). There's a ton of extra length on each circuit to be shortened.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=192378&d=1700181571
Observant readers will notice the turn signal above, which is from Frank at i.e.427 (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/album.php?albumid=2351). It's a solid unit with a nice mechanical feel, and it will also switch the horn and hazards (or high beams if you choose). The installation instructions are excellent, and the install itself is simple. I had to translate the RF harness wires to mine, but that was super easy.
So far I have the following circuits working: turn signals, horn, headlights, tail/park lights, brake lights, and reverse light. I'm happy that I got all of this done without any fuss -- with one exception... the turn flasher stops when I apply the brakes while the turn signals are on. I isolated the problem to the Hopkins trailer converter, as my test light flashes properly when connected upstream from the converter. The converter clearly isn't translating the signal. I thought it was a bad unit, so I replaced it with another from Autozone. No change. It was suggested I replace the Hopkins unit with a Tekonsha converter (https://www.tekonsha.com/product/119130_taillight-converter), which evidently does a much better job of dealing with LEDs. It arrives soon, and I'll update this thread with the results. I've learned through a little research that this is a known but sporadic problem with the Hopkins converter. I should note that I replaced the front 1157 incandescents with LED's from SuperBrightLEDs (https://www.superbrightleds.com/led-light-bulbs-universal-finder/miniature-and-subminiature-bulbs/1157-led-bulb-dual-function-27-smd-led-tower-bay15d-bulb+color-Amber+packamt-2-Pack), so that may have something to do with it. Yes, I have LED flashers installed. The converter will ultimately reside in the trunk next to the fuse box.
I know there can be debate about the best and safest power source for testing circuits, but I decided to go the battery route with an in-line 5A fuse, a switch for convenience (however crude it may be), and a 12g temporary feed. Obviously this will all be replaced by proper gauge wire that feed a bulkhead isolator and a bussbar behind the dash. Maybe a disconnect switch too, but I haven't decided on that. I'm using 2 gauge battery cable from West Marine. Really nice stuff, and they will cut and crimp for you (at least the store near me will).
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=192373&d=1700181537
Don't knock the switch and wire nuts... they serve their purpose for now. :p. And the alligator clips are for the Battery Tender.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=192374&d=1700181537
To help with circuit testing, I'm using super cheap LED pigtails from Amazon. I've connected them to things like low beams, high beams, dash light, horn, reverse light, etc. A quick and effective way to at least confirm the circuits work.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=192372&d=1700181537
As I mentioned above, I was having an issue with the Hopkins trailer converter supplied by FFR. The brake lights and turn signals would not work together. This morning I replaced it with a Tekonsha unit (https://www.tekonsha.com/product/119130_taillight-converter) and everything works great now.
Thanks to Frank (i.e.427) for timmediately knowing it was a problem with the converter and pointing me to the Tekonsha.
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Jim Frahm
11-19-2023, 12:10 AM
Hey Terry,
Your build is coming along nicely. I really like your chassis color, much nicer than black.
I’m working on a new clutch pedal stop bracket that doesn’t require drilling holes in the 3/4” tube. If I finish it before you come up with a solution I’ll let you have the first one.
Keep up the great work,
Jim
Hey Terry,
Your build is coming along nicely. I really like your chassis color, much nicer than black.
I’m working on a new clutch pedal stop bracket that doesn’t require drilling holes in the 3/4” tube. If I finish it before you come up with a solution I’ll let you have the first one.
Keep up the great work,
Jim
Thanks Jim! I sent you a PM.
John Ibele
11-22-2023, 03:46 PM
Nice work, Terry, and you're making good progress. I admire your ability to dive into the wiring and keep things organized. Testing one circuit at a time, and ensuring proper operation before moving on is definitely the way to go.
Things are progressing. I've been spending a bunch of time getting the wiring sorted and organized, with not much that's really visible.
I was originally going to place the trailer light converter next to the fuse box in the trunk, but decided it was simpler and cleaner to locate it just underneath, on the inside of the bracket for what I think is used for the 3-link suspension (maybe I'm wrong). I'm using weather-packs where ever it makes sense, and this seems like a good use for them.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=193135&d=1702252420
I've also jumped around a little bit, getting a few other things done. One thing in particular that I wanted to address was the driver footbox inside panel, which was just loosely sitting above the 4" tube. This isn't too pretty, but it will be covered up and more importantly it's rock solid. The footbox side panel now has zero movement and I was able to gain about 1.5" of space. So much for the nice pretty powdercoated footbox floor. :)
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=193137&d=1702252420
I got the drop trunk fully installed, with just a little more sound deadening to apply. I'm using some NOICO material leftover from a previous project, and I have just enough to get the trunk done. I don't know how much I'll really use the extra space that the drop trunk creates, but it's nice to have it done.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=193133&d=1702252420
I've started a rough mockup of the dash. I'm going with a Competition(ish) layout with a grab handle on the passenger side for functional purposes, but I also think it balances the appearance. I picked up a 12" handle at West Marine that I think will complement the interior well. My gauges from Speedhut are in production and should arrive soon.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=193136&d=1702252420
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=193134&d=1702252420
I also installed a few under-dash panels based on some ideas and advice I got from this thread (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?47774-Under-dash-panel-ideas).
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=192622&d=1700943797
kirby
12-12-2023, 12:38 PM
I like the under dash panels. I have been struggling with how I was going to do this and leave access for the wiring, gauges etc.
I haven't updated this thread in while, primarily because of being away and most of the little stuff I've done since the last post isn't terribly interesting. However I have hit a milestone of sorts... I ordered the drivetrain. I didn't plan on ordering it until later this year, but honestly I was struggling with placement and fitment of certain things without being able to see, in-person, how the drivetrain will fit. I got the green light from the boss, and here's what will be arriving over the next several weeks:
GMPP LS3/430hp from Pro Touring Store (https://protouringstore.com/). I debated between this and the other GMPP versions (495 & 525 hp), and the Blueprint 530hp. The 430 is a sweetheart of an engine with an excellent factory tune, and can always be cammed if desired. The hp rating is pretty conservative and closer to 450-460 by many accounts, but it's the torque curve that matters. Blueprint is out to July with their LS3, and about $2K more out-the-door (although a much better warranty for self-installers). I ended up buying the long block and the loaded intake manifold separately because it was significantly less expensive than buying the full crate. Side note and interesting tidbit -- Dale Schwartz, owner of Pro Touring Store, is super knowledgeable and helpful in the LS/LT space. And his dad owns Schwartz Performance, who builds the chassis for the Shelby Carbon Cobra (https://www.shelby.com/Vehicles/Shelby-Carbon-Cobra).
C6 Corvette Oilpan (GM 12624617) and the needed parts, as recommended by FFR.
Wegner Automotive WAK034 Accessory Drive (https://www.wegnerautomotive.com/drive-kits/lsx-drive-kits/coil-pack-ignition/wak034/) in machined finish with 170 amp alternator and power steering (Jones pump with remote reservoir). It comes with an ATI balancer, which is nice.
Controller Kit from PSI Conversion (https://www.psiconversion.com/). It's essentially the GMPP controller kit (factory tune) with upgraded braided loom.
Flywheel, Quicktime Bellhousing, and Clutch from Mike Forte (https://fortesparts.com/), along with his external slave setup. I originally intended to go with the internal hydraulic TOB, but Mike made a pretty compelling case to go external. Equal pros and cons to both, and often debated.
TKX from Mike, with the mid-shift kit installed.
I'm also finalizing the fuel system. I ordered the Pro-M hanger as recommended by many, and will likely go with a 255 or 340 lph pump, in-line filter (Holley, Aeromotive, or Trickflow) and an adjustable regulator -- all installed as close to the tank as possible. I thought about going with the C5 Corvette filter/regulator combo that many LS builds use, but it appears their reliability has gone downhill. Holley makes a combo unit that I may look at.
Super excited to say the least.
Its Bruce
01-02-2024, 04:17 PM
Congrats Terry. You're going to love it.
A few things done since the last update. The fuel tank is installed, but I'll spare everyone photos because it's really no different than any other build, with fairly common components...Pro-M hanger and 255lph Walbro pump.
I started tackling the fuel system, beginning with the filter and regulator. I debated using the Corvette filter/regulator combo that's very common with LS builds, but I was told by several people (and I've read) that the quality of those units has become very inconsistent. I chose to use a filter that was OEM in GM's trucks starting with the GMT800 platform (I can remember replacing one in our 2003 Surburban). Available anywhere, proven, and inexpensive. I'll be using -6AN adapters to integrate it into the fuel system.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=195020&d=1706393502
I mounted it in this location, as many others do with other filter types (most commonly recently it seems, are the canister filters).
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=195021&d=1706393502
Next was the regulator. Like many, I chose the Aeromotive 13129 unit. This will allow for a short return line and a single line to the engine bay.
I installed the regulator on the 1" tube just forward of the tank. It took me a while to land on this location, but I think this will work well... it's easily accessible through the wheel well and even from underneath. I won't install the gauge in this location for obvious reasons, but I'll use one temporarily at the fuel rail schrader valve to set the pressure.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=195026&d=1706393546
I made the bracket to accommodate four positions (upright, upside down, and on its side either way), as I want flexibility depending on how the flex lines go.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=195022&d=1706393502
I've got the long block on the stand so I can replace the oil pan with the C6 Corvette unit as recommended by FFR. After that I'll bolt up transmission and test it in the chassis. I'm going to skip the clutch install during this step, because I'll likely need to pull the assembly out anyway to trim the Quicktime bellhousing. No sense doing that under the car if I don't have to.
I'm always amazed at how small these things are... power-dense for sure. This is the LS3 430hp.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=195027&d=1706393546
TKX with the mid-shift kit installed by Forte (one less thing for me to do!). I'm interested to see if I'll need to trim the cross-brace on the transmission tunnel. We'll see.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=195025&d=1706393546
Harness from PSI Conversions. I chose PSI over the GMPP harness because they offer the braided loom and the length is shorter and more appropriate for this car (oh, and it's about $500 less). It's a complete plug-n-play setup with a factory tune ECU.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=195024&d=1706393546
I made a bracket for the fuse box. Somehow I missed that option when I ordered the harness, but no big deal to make one...
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=195019&d=1706393502
This is a harness for the dual fans. The engine ECU has two fan triggers - one at 187 degrees (I think) and the another at about 200 (I can't remember the exact temps. Anyway, this harness and relay setup is designed such that both fans will operate at half speed for the lower temp trigger, and then at full speed for the higher temp trigger. Reasoning is that two fans at half speed is quieter than one at full speed, and the amp draw is less. I shouldn't have any cooling problems.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=195018&d=1706393502
A shout out to fellow LS builder Jim Frahm for this clutch pedal stop. It's very well done, and much better than what I could have done.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=195028&d=1706393921
Its Bruce
01-27-2024, 08:08 PM
When the time comes, you'll want to read into the GMPP fan control settings. They made it much more complex than it needed to be. Regardless, you'll have no issues cooling with two fans. I use the single FFR-supplied fan with a very tight homemade shroud and had no issues this summer.
When the time comes, you'll want to read into the GMPP fan control settings. They made it much more complex than it needed to be. Regardless, you'll have no issues cooling with two fans. I use the single FFR-supplied fan with a very tight homemade shroud and had no issues this summer.
Hey Bruce -- Thanks, I remember PSI mentioning something about this, and in fact I believe they made some adjustments to the cooling fan part of the tune. To your point though, I'll need to learn more so I know exactly how it's supposed to work.
I never planned on using dual fans, but I stumbled on the Ron Davis setup at a price that I couldn't pass up from a would-be FFR builder who had it made for a 1000hp LS and then decided to put that motor in his Chevelle and ditch the FFR project. Total and complete overkill.
Finally off the dolly, on to the temporary wagon wheels, and the engine ready to install. Well sort of -- the clutch isn't installed... I just want to check clearances and then remove to trim the bellhousing.
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Mbufford
02-04-2024, 06:41 PM
Congrats on hitting this milestone!
I was table to get the engine in yesterday for test fitting. Everything looks good, with only a few minor things to work out.
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First, and as expected, I need to deal with the lip of the bellhousing that sits below the frame rails. I can deal with this a number of ways: 1) cut along the line in the picture as many do, 2) raise the engine a bit, 3) some combination of 1 & 2. I'm inclined to just cut it and move on. The alignment of the transmission to the rear end is very close and will only need a few minor adjustments, so I don't expect that to make a material difference in the height of the bellhousing flange.
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No picture, but the bottom of the mount holes on the TKX sit about 3-3/8" from the top of the a-frame, so I'll need to use some spacers (I have some from Forte) on top of whatever transmission mount I end up getting. Likely this one (https://teamenergysuspension.com/product/energy-suspension-4-1104g-transmission-mount/).
Also no picture, but the external slave setup from Forte is not going to work. Quite unfortunate as it's a nice piece. The bracket will install fine, but there is noroom to mount the slave cylinder due to interference with the 1" tube. The Quicktime bellhousing is just too wide for this. So it looks like I'll end up with a Tilton internal unit. Not a big problem.
Lastly, and what I'm probably most excited about, is where the midshifter landed! I was fully expecting to cut the cross brace, but sometimes you get lucky.
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cc2Arider
02-12-2024, 06:55 AM
Looking good Terry :)
Craig C
Jim Frahm
02-12-2024, 05:07 PM
I was table to get the engine in yesterday for test fitting. Everything looks good, with only a few minor things to work out.
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First, and as expected, I need to deal with the lip of the bellhousing that sits below the frame rails. I can deal with this a number of ways: 1) cut along the line in the picture as many do, 2) raise the engine a bit, 3) some combination of 1 & 2. I'm inclined to just cut it and move on. The alignment of the transmission to the rear end is very close and will only need a few minor adjustments, so I don't expect that to make a material difference in the height of the bellhousing flange.
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No picture, but the bottom of the mount holes on the TKX sit about 3-3/8" from the top of the a-frame, so I'll need to use some spacers (I have some from Forte) on top of whatever transmission mount I end up getting. Likely this one (https://teamenergysuspension.com/product/energy-suspension-4-1104g-transmission-mount/).
Also no picture, but the external slave setup from Forte is not going to work. Quite unfortunate as it's a nice piece. The bracket will install fine, but there is noroom to mount the slave cylinder due to interference with the 1" tube. The Quicktime bellhousing is just too wide for this. So it looks like I'll end up with a Tilton internal unit. Not a big problem.
Lastly, and what I'm probably most excited about, is where the midshifter landed! I was fully expecting to cut the cross brace, but sometimes you get lucky.
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Terry,
I was able to use the bracket and slave cylinder that Forte provided without issue. Maybe he changed something in the meantime.
Jim
Its Bruce
02-12-2024, 07:30 PM
Lastly, and what I'm probably most excited about, is where the midshifter landed! I was fully expecting to cut the cross brace, but sometimes you get lucky.
:cool:
I was the same, and I love the driving position with it. As the saying goes - I'd rather be lucky, because 'good' takes practice.
Terry,
I was able to use the bracket and slave cylinder that Forte provided without issue. Maybe he changed something in the meantime.
Jim
Jim, I found a picture in your build thread and your bracket is completely different than what Mike made for me. That said, I don't think yours would fit either. It's puzzling because we basically have the same config, unless we're using different versions of the Quicktime bellhousing (although I thought there was only one part # for the LS) or your diagonal brace is located differently than mine. The flange of my bellhousing sits about an inch from that brace.
Terry
:cool:
I was the same, and I love the driving position with it. As the saying goes - I'd rather be lucky, because 'good' takes practice.
I've known from the start that I wanted the midshift. Even happier it fits perfectly. What shift lever are you using?
Its Bruce
02-13-2024, 05:14 PM
https://core-shifters.com/collections/hurst-sticks/products/black-stick-5197
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Jim Frahm
02-13-2024, 09:22 PM
Jim, I found a picture in your build thread and your bracket is completely different than what Mike made for me. That said, I don't think yours would fit either. It's puzzling because we basically have the same config, unless we're using different versions of the Quicktime bellhousing (although I thought there was only one part # for the LS) or your diagonal brace is located differently than mine. The flange of my bellhousing sits about an inch from that brace.
Terry
Here’s a couple of photos I took of my setup. 195634195635195636
As you can see from the photos I added a couple of shims between the bracket and bell housing and I still had to relieve the block just a little bit.
Here’s a couple of photos I took of my setup. 195634195635195636
As you can see from the photos I added a couple of shims between the bracket and bell housing and I still had to relieve the block just a little bit.
Thanks Jim, that's super helpful to see.
I removed the engine to start getting it all assembled, and to take care of a few things in the engine bay prior to final install.
I decided to get the parking brake done, and I had a Lokar unit mocked up on the transmission tunnel. However I couldn't get the damn thing to work consistently and it was like a rattle trap, so I drove down to Summit to exchange it, thinking I just got a bad one. When I was at the counter I made a impromptu decision to go with an E-Stopp. Being relatively close to Summit is a blessing and a curse.
I really like the way Lidodrip (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?47284-Graduation-FFR-MK4-9947) setup his, so I copied it exactly.
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I was able to use the factory cables and the caliper brackets, which made for a clean install.
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I connected the control box and everything works flawlessly.
Lidodrip
02-19-2024, 08:26 PM
Great to hear the install went well!
James
Great to hear the install went well!
James
Thanks for the idea!! It sure was nice making adjustments without lying under the car.
I was able to get the accessory drive installed today. It was pretty easy, with the most time consuming part being the ATI damper install. I'm very impressed with the quality of this system.
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Hey Terry, your accessory drive setup looks great!
When you had your engine in, did you check your driveshaft? FFR provided driveshaft #16038 with my order. Due to it being so short, I only had about 1 3/8" of engagement with the transmission output shaft. Most of the yoke was hanging out.
I contacted FFR and sent some pics. They have driveshaft #60175 on the way to me. My engine is still in for test fitting, so I will see how it lines up once it arrives.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=196730&d=1710248271
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=196731&d=1710248271
Its Bruce
03-12-2024, 11:39 AM
I was able to get the accessory drive installed today. It was pretty easy, with the most time consuming part being the ATI damper install. I'm very impressed with the quality of this system.
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Looks good. How do intend to plumb between the lower radiator and thermostat housing?
Hey Terry, your accessory drive setup looks great!
When you had your engine in, did you check your driveshaft? FFR provided driveshaft #16038 with my order. Due to it being so short, I only had about 1 3/8" of engagement with the transmission output shaft. Most of the yoke was hanging out.
I contacted FFR and sent some pics. They have driveshaft #60175 on the way to me. My engine is still in for test fitting, so I will see how it lines up once it arrives.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=196730&d=1710248271
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=196731&d=1710248271
Thanks Jeff, I'll definitely measure before I drop it back in. Appreciate the heads up.
Looks good. How do intend to plumb between the lower radiator and thermostat housing?
It shouldn't be too difficult since the radiator inlet and outlet are both on the passenger side, but those are famous last words.
Not much new to report, other than I removed the drivetrain assembly and installed the clutch and Tilton 6000 hydraulic throwout bearing. Prior to that I checked the alignment of the bellhousing and was pleased to find that I don't need any adjustments (i.e. offset dowels).
In case it helps anyone else, I used an alignment method prescribed by Silver Sport Transmissions (https://www.shiftsst.com/). It's very simple and straightforward. They describe it in this video:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fu9bg-fJdnc
Using this method, I ended up with a final number of 0.0025, which is within the 0.005 tolerance required by Tremec. I believe the smallest available offset dowel 0.007, which wouldn't help here.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=196914&d=1710620258
Pardon the absurdly large photos... I must have forgotten to resize correctly.
Pretty good weekend, got the final drivetrain install done. I'm sure other LS builders will agree that this setup sits in there very nicely, but no surprise given the dimensions are similar to the SBF. The crank pulley sits about an inch (maybe a hair less) above the cross member, and that's with the FFR LS mounts and no spacers. Very happy about that. As can been seen in the photos, I rotated the fuel rail 180 degrees and converted the quick-connect to AN.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=197517&d=1711909073
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=197516&d=1711909056
The trimmed Quicktime bellhousing sits about dead even with the bottom of the 4" tubes. Crappy photo, but you get the idea:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=197514&d=1711909056
I was able to get the transmission aligned within spec to the rear end with three 1/4" spacers from Forte:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=197512&d=1711909056
And finally, as I think I noted previously, the shifter landed in a perfect location without having to cut any of the chassis.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=197515&d=1711909056
Again, it's been a while since my last update.
My primary focus now is getting everything in place required to start the engine. I've got the wiring harness and PCM installed, along with the primary power wiring. As you might imagine, there are no lack of fancy billet PCM mounts out there, but I chose to go with an $20 GM unit from eBay that's made of some sort of plastic or poly material. Apparently using a conductive mount can lead to ground looping issues.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=198524&d=1713740658
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=198523&d=1713740658
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=198518&d=1713740615
The fans are all wired and tested. At low temp, both Spal fans move at half-speed and they barely make any noise. At high temp, both fans run at full speed and I think they could suck a small child into the radiator. Still pretty quiet though. The relay box is installed on the 3/4" tube in the engine bay. The fan harness is specifically for dual fans and the LS platform/PCM.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=198519&d=1713740615
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=198520&d=1713740615
The fuel lines are all in place and pressure tested with my compressor and soapy water. Good old-school leak test. Of course I'll double check when the system is pressurized with fuel. The regulator sits just inside the passenger side rear wheel well and is very accessible.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=198521&d=1713740615
One thing I'll need to figure out is the connection to the lower port on the radiator. The tow loop is right there and doesn't provide much room, so I think I'll need to trim or remove it completely (maybe replace with a threaded tow hook like you'd see on many modern vehicles). Other than that, the routing is pretty straightforward.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=198517&d=1713740615
Wow, going on a couple months since my last update. Glad blogging isn't my day job.
The engine bay is filling up, with a lot of time spent on thinking through things like hose routing, tank placement intake design, etc. And then sourcing the parts. It's all a lot of fun, but definitely time consuming.
200525
In the most recent previous post, I mentioned how the lower radiator might be a challenge because well, this is an LS and I also have a custom radiator. I had to make a hose out of three molded hoses. Good thing the local NAPA guys are really patient didn't mind me sitting there with the catalog and asking them to retrieve certain hoses. In the end, I bought about twelve hoses and kept five to complete the upper and lower hoses. I made sure to keep the part numbers for future reference. I had to insert a 1.25" to 1.5" transition in the upper hose.
200526
200527
I went with Canton expansion and overflow tanks. I found out Canton operates an eBay store where they sell their blemished items for about 50% off in many cases.
Expansion/surge tank:
200528
Overflow tank (the bracket's will be removed and coated):
200529
The system is designed around this diagram (thanks to fellow builder Bruce (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/member.php?14690-Its-Bruce) for pointing me to it). I had seen it on the internet before, but not the variation without the heater.
200530
The intake took some consideration. I thought about keeping the filter in the engine bay like most people do, but GM is pretty specific about spacing requirements for the MAF sensor. Granted, plenty of people have deviated from those requirements with fine results. But I'd like to keep this in-spec as much as possible, and I'd also like to see if I can get cooler air into the engine ("cooler" is an amusing word when you live in Texas). It turns out that it's been done before with a MKIV... see this post in It's Bruce's build (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?46750-LSx-Engine-T56-Magnum-in-a-Roadster&p=532416&viewfull=1#post532416).
I essentially copied Bruce's setup (what's the imitation/flattery saying?) after a bunch of PM's exchanged...
200533
200534
This is just temporary hardware... no need for 1.5" bolts. :D
200535
The filter will end up looking like this:
200536
As other LS builders have noted, the factory dipstick is not an easy fit mostly because of the engine mounts. After jacking around with it for a while, I finally decided to install a Lokar unit, which worked perfectly.
A small bend to the Lokar bracket, along with a spacer and cap screw, and it's all good:
200537
Fairly clean routing to the dipstick port:
200538
As other LS builders have noted, the factory dipstick is not an easy fit mostly because of the engine mounts. After jacking around with it for a while, I finally decided to install a Lokar unit, which worked perfectly.
A small bend to the Lokar bracket, along with a spacer and cap screw, and it's all good:
200537
Fairly clean routing to the dipstick port:
200538
That starter/motor mount/motor mount adapter/header/spark plug area sure gets crowded when it comes time to install a dipstick tube. I did something real similar after trying to bend and modify 2 GM dipstick tubes.
Yours looks real clean!
That starter/motor mount/motor mount adapter/header/spark plug area sure gets crowded when it comes time to install a dipstick tube. I did something real similar after trying to bend and modify 2 GM dipstick tubes.
Yours looks real clean!
Thanks Jeff - yes it's a tight area. I ruined one GM dipstick before deciding I needed to go a different route. I couldn't get a smooth enough bend that fit without the dipstick getting stuck.
Its Bruce
06-10-2024, 05:29 PM
Looking great!
A quick panel for the relays and such...
200664
I got the air filter installed. This should work well. The rest of the intake is at the coater getting treated with cermet along with the headers.
200849
200850
Time for another series of procrastinated build posts. Overall, I'm getting prepared for first start. Things that need to be done before that include the following:
Fill tank and test fuel system pressure
Prime and fill engine with oil; will be using Driven BR30 (https://drivenracingoil.com/i-30497749-br30-5w-30-conventional-break-in-oil.html)
Install new master cylinders and bleed the hydraulics... more on that below.
Temporarily install oil pressure and water temp gauges
Maybe pressurize the cooling system prior to first start, or just let 'er rip and see what happens. System is filled with DexCool.
Adjust/set the Tilton hydraulic throwout bearing. I guess this isn't really necessary for first start, but it would be nice to have it done
Install side pipes
The engine bay is 99% done.
201823
I decided to have the headers ceramic metallic coated... essentially the same as JetHot.
201821
Also had the intake pipes coated the same way. The heat reduction won't provide a material benefit in this application (compared to the headers), but they look nice and match.
201824
Power steering lines are installed. I kept it simple and just routed them over the X member. Lee Power Steering (https://leepowersteering.com/) was a great source for everything.
201822
I finished the gas pedal using an extra pedal pad that I ordered from Mike Forte a while back. I think it came out pretty well. The nice thing is how adjustable it is. I can move it up, down, and side to side if needed. We'll see how the current position works out and go from there.
201825
201826
201827
I mentioned above how I needed to install new master cylinders. I've always had this feeling that it will be "when" and not "if" one of the Wilwood MC's fails... based on nothing more than what I've read here and other forums (not necessary FFR related). I even contemplated proactively replacing all of them before I get the aluminum buttoned up, but I didn't make it a priority. Until this morning.
I started to bench bleed the clutch MC and wouldn't you know... it started leaking. I didn't get upset or annoyed... I just grabbed my wrenches, removed all three MC's and headed down to Summit Racing for new Tiltons. Sometimes it's better to just find a different solution and move on. I'm not taking it up with FFR or Wilwood... it's just not worth my time, and I have zero interest in installing a new Wilwood or rebuilding it.
201828
Almost ready for first start. Just tested the fuel system -- no leaks, fires, or explosions, and 58 lbs at the rail.
Just need to install the side pipes.
202068
Big day today with the first start of the LS3. No leaks or funny noises. All systems were operating perfectly according to the OBD2 scanner. Fans came on as they were supposed to. It really helped to have a couple friends there to check things along the way.
https://www.youtube.com/shorts/1GEP8Us2VCA
https://www.youtube.com/shorts/5xKEotfrAAs
Those are just temporary wheels and tires. I'll put rubber on the Halibrands sometime in the next few months. These work fine for now, and no worries about dinging them up.
cc2Arider
08-04-2024, 04:07 PM
Nice Job Terry! Congratulations on this milestone :)
Craig C
JimStone
08-04-2024, 05:54 PM
Great job! I've been watching your LS build and taking some pointers, although mine is for a coupe.
Jim Frahm
08-04-2024, 07:57 PM
Congrats! That sounds just like it should!!!!!
I'm currently fitting doors, hood, and trunk. Once that's complete I'll be ready to get it licensed.
Jeff Kleiner
08-05-2024, 08:00 AM
Congrats Terry! I've been quietly following along because I may be venturing down a similar path soon. Thanks for the documentation!
Jeff
Nice Job Terry! Congratulations on this milestone :)
Craig C
Great job! I've been watching your LS build and taking some pointers, although mine is for a coupe.
Thanks guys!
Congrats! That sounds just like it should!!!!!
I'm currently fitting doors, hood, and trunk. Once that's complete I'll be ready to get it licensed.
Cool, thanks Jim. BTW, your clutch pedal stop is gold. Good luck with the body fitment... I'm not looking forward to that.
Congrats Terry! I've been quietly following along because I may be venturing down a similar path soon. Thanks for the documentation!
Jeff
Glad it helps Jeff. I should probably call you soon to get in your queue.
Its Bruce
08-06-2024, 09:36 PM
Sounds great :cool:. I enjoy the oh so common "whoa, it actually started. Oh yah, I should be checking the oil pressure..."
Sounds great :cool:. I enjoy the oh so common "whoa, it actually started. Oh yah, I should be checking the oil pressure..."
Yeah I was expecting it to crank a little longer than it did, so it took me by surprise when it came to life. It almost looked like the ignition switch shocked me. Lol
The dash is almost done. The four mounting brackets behind the dash are installed and the screws are countersunk to keep them from showing under the leather and the closed cell backing (probably 1/16 or 1/8, no more). Thanks to others before me for the idea (and especially) to John Ibele (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?27168-John%92s-Mk4-Build-Thread) for his assistance via PM.
This process wasn't without drama. I originally attached a 0.40 backing layer to help with rigidity. Unfortunately I used 3M Super 77 which I've had great results with in the past. Unfortunately I think this Texas heat isn't conducive to proper curing, and furthermore I read that it only has heat resistance up to 150 degrees -- which could spell trouble when the dash inevitably sits in, again, the Texas heat and sun. I should have done more research before using 77. Luckily I was able to remove the backing layer without any damage to the dash. I chose to move forward without it, and only use small pieces of backing in certain places as needed (for example, between the dash and mounting brackets). I'll use panel adhesive for that.
I used a variation of the comp layout, sitting in position to make sure I could see everything well. Because of this, I decided not to place any gauges to the left of the steering wheel hub. Additionally I decided to place the clock above the grab handle... a decision that I knew would be a "love it" or "hate it" thing. I like it a lot -- IMO it gives some balance and something extra to the dash. I'm sure many will disagree.
The only other items I'll add to the face of the dash are the e-brake button (probably to the left of the steering hub), a couple billet push-button switches for high-beams and interior lights, and the check-engine light. I want to keep it as clean as possible. The hazard switch is built into i.e.427's turn signal switch. The switches for headlights, ignition, and wipers will all go under the dash in the panels I built.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=203128&d=1724620737
cc2Arider
08-26-2024, 07:06 AM
Looks good Terry! I like that you are making your own special customizations :)
What's the part number for your grab handle?
Craig C
egchewy79
08-26-2024, 07:55 AM
The dash is almost done. The four mounting brackets behind the dash are installed and the screws are countersunk to keep them from showing under the leather and the closed cell backing (probably 1/16 or 1/8, no more). Thanks to others before me for the idea (and especially) to John Ibele (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?27168-John%92s-Mk4-Build-Thread) for his assistance via PM.
This process wasn't without drama. I originally attached a 0.40 backing layer to help with rigidity. Unfortunately I used 3M Super 77 which I've had great results with in the past. Unfortunately I think this Texas heat isn't conducive to proper curing, and furthermore I read that it only has heat resistance up to 150 degrees -- which could spell trouble when the dash inevitably sits in, again, the Texas heat and sun. I should have done more research before using 77. Luckily I was able to remove the backing layer without any damage to the dash. I chose to move forward without it, and only use small pieces of backing in certain places as needed (for example, between the dash and mounting brackets). I'll use panel adhesive for that.
I used a variation of the comp layout, sitting in position to make sure I could see everything well. Because of this, I decided not to place any gauges to the left of the steering wheel hub. Additionally I decided to place the clock above the grab handle... a decision that I knew would be a "love it" or "hate it" thing. I like it a lot -- IMO it gives some balance and something extra to the dash. I'm sure many will disagree.
The only other items I'll add to the face of the dash are the e-brake button (probably to the left of the steering hub), a couple billet push-button switches for high-beams and interior lights, and the check-engine light. I want to keep it as clean as possible. The hazard switch is built into i.e.427's turn signal switch. The switches for headlights, ignition, and wipers will all go under the dash in the panels I built.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=203128&d=1724620737
I like it.
I too wanted something on the PS dash to break up the blank space, especially since I wasn't having a glove box there.
I think Shelby himself put the speedo on the PS dash to piss off race officials who required a speedo in a race car.203148
Looks good Terry! I like that you are making your own special customizations :)
What's the part number for your grab handle?
Craig C
Thanks Craig. It's a 12" stainless handrail from West Marine, model # 12868733.
I like it.
I too wanted something on the PS dash to break up the blank space, especially since I wasn't having a glove box there.
I think Shelby himself put the speedo on the PS dash to piss off race officials who required a speedo in a race car.203148
Thanks - I really like your dash... the layout and the color. Yes, that would seem to fit Shelby's personality.
Today was a fun day. I got the first go-kart ride in, and everything went well.
https://www.youtube.com/shorts/DqVVPk_36so
https://www.youtube.com/shorts/7T60COm1-YQ
A few observations:
The clutch and hydraulics are silky smooth, with no chatter, funny noises or other weird things. Phew.
I'm very glad I went with power steering.
Pedal placement seems to be really good. I wasn't hunting for any pedal or snagging my sneakers on anything. Maybe I'll need to make adjustments after the carpet is in, but for now it's all good.
I need to tighten up the exhaust, as I was getting some popping on decel. Easy fix, and no surprise because I know I didn't fully tighten the collector.
One tiny coolant leak at the expansion tank. I'll give it another heat cycle or two because the Gates Powergrip clamp might tighten further. If not, it's a minor fix.
I've haven't done an alignment yet, and I could tell.
The tires are marginal at best, but I only expected to use them as rollers. I bought the wheels from a guy in town, and the tires came off our daughter's Mazda when I replaced her tires. They're fine for now, but I'll look forward to getting tires for the 18" Halibrands.
It's been a while since I've been in a car with this kind of power-to-weight ratio. Good lord.
Just a few dash updates I forgot to post.
I was able to get the bracket for the handrail completed, although it needs to be painted or powder-coated. I made it with 1/8" x 1" flat steel, 1" angle, and some 5/16 and 1/4-20 fasteners I had. I'll use proper locking hardware at final install. That said, it's rock solid as it sits, and should make the handrail very useful.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=203959&d=1725998830
I decided to place the ignition, wiper, and headlight switches under the dash on the center panel. This should help keep the dash layout cleaner.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=203960&d=1725998830
Mbufford
09-11-2024, 02:17 PM
If you want to powder coat that, and any other small parts, you’re welcome to come over one of these coming weekends. Between sanding, degreasing, spraying, and baking, it would only take about 45 minutes. I’ve gotten pretty decent at powder coating things over the last several months.
Congrats on the go carting! I just got there a couple weeks ago...sure is gratifying to hear and feel it do it's thing for the first time, isn't it? Hard to believe the mechanical part is pretty much over...it's all about the body from here on out. (Hopefully.)
Slow progress, but wiring is an enjoyable part of the build for me and I've spent time thinking through things as I go along. I completed the dash wiring and made sure it's easy to service/modify and disconnect from the main harness when needed. I ended up with four weatherpack connectors. I could have used fewer larger connectors, but decided to use what I had on-hand.
The clock is powered by a 12v constant feed.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=205394&d=1729195573
You may notice a small device in the picture above -- it's a low voltage sensor for the battery light on the dash. This one is from American Autowire and very simple to install. Options are limited when using a one-wire alternator, and this one seemed like the most practical. It's designed to trigger the light when voltage drops below 11 volts. Ron Francis makes a similar unit.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=205398&d=1729198215
I spent some time cleaning up the space between the firewall and dash. Despite how it may look, it's actually quite organized and all of the wires are very accessible if needed (hopefully never). There's a lot going on in there with the harness, ECU, ECU fuse panel, auxillary fuse panel, grounding buss bar, relays, e-Stopp, etc.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=205393&d=1729195573
I installed the dash and plugged in the four connectors, and everything worked right out of the gate. I started up the engine to confirm the guages work, and they do. Fuel gauge is calibrated and the all-important clock keeps time (connected to a constant 12v instead of dash power). Overall, a big milestone in my small world.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=205405&d=1729211803
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=205406&d=1729211803
A couple needed changes:
- The LED switches are way too bright, so I'll add a resistor to each in order to dim them a bit. Luckily they only illuminate when the switch is pressed. I also need to order a different switch for the high beams because the one I have illuminates white instead of blue. I must have clicked the wrong option when I ordered. Easy enough to swap out.
- I've realized the relays could be difficult to replace without removing the dash. Relay sockets would be better than direct spade connectors to the relays. I should have done that from the start. Not sure what I was thinking there.
Nigel Allen
10-18-2024, 02:38 AM
Looks great. Nice job on the wiring. Oh, and now the hands illuminate on the clock unlike the earlier offerings...
Cheers,
Nige
maclonchas
10-18-2024, 06:18 AM
Great job Terry and good persistence getting all those solutions buttoned up for a successful first start.
egchewy79
10-18-2024, 06:35 AM
Looks great. Nice job on the wiring. Oh, and now the hands illuminate on the clock unlike the earlier offerings...
Cheers,
Nige
I might have missed it, but is the illuminated clock hands a new offering from speedhut?
egchewy79
10-18-2024, 07:00 AM
duplicate post deleted
I might have missed it, but is the illuminated clock hands a new offering from speedhut?
News to me. My gauges came directly from Speedhut, not FFR. Regardless, it seems odd that Speedhut would illuminate the clock differently than the other gauges.
F500guy
10-18-2024, 08:15 AM
Looks great, but what are the access plans for the fuses behind the dash on the fire wall?
Looks great, but what are the access plans for the fuses behind the dash on the fire wall?
Good question, and something I've thought a lot about while putting this thing together. For a simple fuse replacement, it's easy to just reach up under the dash (I've tested that :)), and if further access is needed, the center panel is designed to be removed easily without disconnecting the switches it holds. I suppose another option is to remove the tach and reach through.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=203960&d=1725998830
Didn't do much this weekend, but got the driver's side Thermo-Tec in, and installed the trunk hinge kit.
This is tedious work, but gratifying nonetheless.
205832
I originally thought the struts would interfere with the fuse box, but they do work nicely together afterall. I took Jeff Kleiner's advice and placed the front mounts between the belt holes to prevent interference with the belts.
205833
205834
Starting to resemble a car...
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=206069&d=1730758613
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=206070&d=1730758613
I've been working on getting some of the last wiring items completed, which should get me close to being done with this phase until I need to do other things when the body is on (license plate lights, reverse light, etc.). It seems like a never-ending phase of the build, but fortunately it's enjoyable.
A couple of USB ports installed in the dash panels. The button in the first picture for the clutch safety switch override, which is super handy when you want to start the car without getting in it (just make sure it's in neutral). Unfortunately the neutral safety switch on the TKX is non-functional with the mid-shift kit, otherwise I would have used that instead of the clutch safety switch. The inertia switch is installed to interrupt the fuel pump relay ground.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=206534&d=1731867347
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=206531&d=1731867315
I have no plans to have multiple devices plugged in at the same time, but it can't hurt to have another 12V/USB source in another location, so I installed a panel with a port and four switches... two for the seat heaters, and two additional for foot box blowers like AA-Ron and Mike.Bray installed (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?48383-A-different-way-to-vent-the-footbox). All three (seat heaters, blowers, 12V/USB) are powered by separate dedicated circuits. My plan is to make this entire panel removable as one assembly without disconnecting everything on it. Like the dash, I'll use a couple weather packs to do this.
I have the following items to complete:
One more round of clean-up/organization behind the dash when I remove it next.
Change the courtesy lights to a battery circuit rather than the ignition-fed "dome light" circuit. I think the ability to turn those lights on without the key on would be helpful. Maybe others have a different opinion?
Cleanup the connections between the turn signal and the harness. Right now I have each wire connected using a spade connector and I'm not thrilled with it. Unfortunately the hole they need to pass through isn't large enough for any sort of weather-pack or similar, so I may be limited to what I have.
Run a battery-tender cable to a location where I don't need to open the hood every time. Any ideas? I'm thinking under the dash hear the OBD2 port.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=206530&d=1731867315
And finally, I cleaned up the fuse panel area a little more. More importantly, I sealed up where the harness comes through the trunk floor using this grommet from Seals-It (https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sit-sgs4-5-100).
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=206533&d=1731867347
PNWTim
11-17-2024, 03:44 PM
Your work is looking really nice. In regards to this statement:
Change the courtesy lights to a battery circuit rather than the ignition-fed "dome light" circuit. I think the ability to turn those lights on without the key on would be helpful. Maybe others have a different opinion?
I am guessing the "dome light" circuit is only on when the ignition is activated? Seems a little odd since a dome light circuit should be battery fed, not ignition fed but either way, I agree with you. Would be nice to be able to trigger those lights without the key.
Not much exciting to report. Taking care of a few electrical things, like dimming the LEDs of the dash switches. They're just too bright and would be very distracting. I spliced in a 3.6K Ohm resistor into each switch, which made a noticeable difference in the intensity (guessing 50%).
206957
The switch looks green, but it's just the photo. Dimmed switch on left vs non-dimmed on right.
206958
As I was working behind the dash, I discovered a loose connection on the ignition relay, and quickly fixed it. Evidently I must have grabbed the wrong female spade connector when I was assembling that relay -- this one didn't have the tab to keep it secure in the relay socket. Glad I found it now and not later when everything is buttoned up. I checked all the others and all is good.
Roll Bars
I've got the 1.5" roll bars installed, but i just can't get myself to really like them, especially after seeing the 2" bars on a few other cars. So I placed a call to FFR and ordered a set. More to come.
Blitzboy54
11-30-2024, 04:30 AM
You won’t regret the 2” bars. They look so much better.
The build is progressing slowly, but mostly because I've decided to make a few changes along the way.
Seats
Good grief, talk about indecision. I can't use the FFR seats because my wife recently had neck surgery and low-back seats are a no-go. I was set on buying high-backs until I was convinced in a thread I started (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?49695-Need-new-seats-and-would-appreciate-informed-opinions) that I should add headrests to the FFR seats. Cool, the decision was made and I even bought 2004 Audi A4 headrests for future install. Better yet, it would be inexpensive and maintain the look I had planned. That was until last week when I saw them on my shelf and thought "you know, I really should have her sit in the FFR seat and seat how this will all work." Glad I did, because that setup was clearly not going to work for her. Ok, back to buying high-back seats. After reaching the end of the internet looking for options and talking to a few fellow builders, I landed on the Intatrim Stonesleigh (https://intatrim.co.uk/products/stoneleigh/) seat. I'm working with Robin at Intatrim on a design and will be ordering them this week. The bigger point though, is how these seats will change the entire look of the interior I had planned. It's not a bad thing, it's just a change in direction. I'm actually pretty excited about it.
Dash
I like the layout of my dash, but there are a few things I wish I had done differently or better. Since there's no better time to do it, I've decided to pull the dash and start over. FFR's blank dash is about $200 shipped, so I'm making my own. For less than half that, I ordered a piece of 5052 0.050 aluminum at a local supplier (slightly thicker than the FFR material). They'll bend the bottom lip for me too, which is a plus. I'll also be able to cut it even with the hoop, and won't have to worry about whether the body will cover it. The layout will remain the same, but the size of the holes will be more precise this time, and I'm moving away from the hidden mount system in favor of face-mounted screws like most people use. Nothing against the hidden mounts, but I feel like I'll end up cursing them in the long run when/if I need to remove the dash. I'll install tabs to avoid the screws from being hidden behind the body.
2" Roll Bars
I mentioned previously that I was switching to FFR's 2" roll bars. I ordered the 1.75" OD x 0.25" DOM tubing for the adapters from the same place I ordered the dash material. I had them cut it into six 3.5" sections, and they were easily tapped into the roll bar ends with a rubber mallet. My neighbor Alex tack welded them in place:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=207618&d=1734398708
Now I'm working on getting them installed, and it's going to take some work as you can see in this photo. This is as far as I can get the diagonal into the main hoop stub, so I'll need to do some more work with the emory cloth and flap wheel. Also, the rear stub on the frame needs to be encouraged upward a little bit with a BFH, as it took quite a bit of muscle to get it to this point (an approach that won't work with the body on). It will all be worth it though, as they look much better IMO.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=207619&d=1734398708
I continued with the roll bar fitting this evening and I wanted to figure out why the rear leg was so difficult to mate to the hoop. I was curious if I had an alignment issue or a tolerances problem, or both (most likely). I decided to see if removing the tack welds on the frame studs would help by allowing the hoop to slide down about 3/8" to 1/2" further.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=207656&d=1734482015
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=207654&d=1734482015
Once I did that, I confirmed alignment by shortening one of the 1.5" legs I have, installed it on the rear stub, and then installed the 2" hoop. When I slid the rear leg up to the hoop stub, I could see that the alignment is much better -- not perfect, but it never will be and it should be just fine for getting things installed.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=207655&d=1734482015
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=207657&d=1734482015
This tells me that I need to adjust the tolerances between the hoop and rear leg, and maybe even the rear leg and rear stub. I've done some with an emory cloth, but clearly not enough. I'll need to pick up a few flap wheels and go to town on it. I want to get the pieces to a point where they slide on with minimal effort, but not too loose. Enough to compensate for friction that the slight misalignment will inevitably introduce.
Tell me if you think I'm missing something. Just trying to apply some method to the madness.
Blitzboy54
12-17-2024, 08:44 PM
I took a shocking amount of material off to get them to mate without a hammer. I spent 4 hours in total removing material getting everything lined up.
I took a shocking amount of material off to get them to mate without a hammer. I spent 4 hours in total removing material getting everything lined up.
Yeah, I think that's what I'm heading into.
BrewCityCobra
12-18-2024, 03:28 PM
I've been working on getting some of the last wiring items completed, which should get me close to being done with this phase until I need to do other things when the body is on (license plate lights, reverse light, etc.). It seems like a never-ending phase of the build, but fortunately it's enjoyable.
A couple of USB ports installed in the dash panels. The button in the first picture for the clutch safety switch override, which is super handy when you want to start the car without getting in it (just make sure it's in neutral). Unfortunately the neutral safety switch on the TKX is non-functional with the mid-shift kit, otherwise I would have used that instead of the clutch safety switch. The inertia switch is installed to interrupt the fuel pump relay ground.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=206534&d=1731867347
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=206531&d=1731867315
I have no plans to have multiple devices plugged in at the same time, but it can't hurt to have another 12V/USB source in another location, so I installed a panel with a port and four switches... two for the seat heaters, and two additional for foot box blowers like AA-Ron and Mike.Bray installed (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?48383-A-different-way-to-vent-the-footbox). All three (seat heaters, blowers, 12V/USB) are powered by separate dedicated circuits. My plan is to make this entire panel removable as one assembly without disconnecting everything on it. Like the dash, I'll use a couple weather packs to do this.
I have the following items to complete:
One more round of clean-up/organization behind the dash when I remove it next.
Change the courtesy lights to a battery circuit rather than the ignition-fed "dome light" circuit. I think the ability to turn those lights on without the key on would be helpful. Maybe others have a different opinion?
Cleanup the connections between the turn signal and the harness. Right now I have each wire connected using a spade connector and I'm not thrilled with it. Unfortunately the hole they need to pass through isn't large enough for any sort of weather-pack or similar, so I may be limited to what I have.
Run a battery-tender cable to a location where I don't need to open the hood every time. Any ideas? I'm thinking under the dash hear the OBD2 port.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=206530&d=1731867315
And finally, I cleaned up the fuse panel area a little more. More importantly, I sealed up where the harness comes through the trunk floor using this grommet from Seals-It (https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sit-sgs4-5-100).
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=206533&d=1731867347
With regard to the battery tender port - I faced a similar situation (with a similar goal) and ended up going with a C-TEK unit positioned under the passenger end of the dash. I have a few points about it in my build thread. Thought you may find it helpful. To your point, it allows the battery to be on a tender with the hood closed, trunk closed, and even a cover over the car.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?38979-The-Brew-City-Cobra-427W-IRS-Quick-Jacks-Installed-Horn-Updated&p=559614&viewfull=1#post559614
With regard to the battery tender port - I faced a similar situation (with a similar goal) and ended up going with a C-TEK unit positioned under the passenger end of the dash. I have a few points about it in my build thread. Thought you may find it helpful. To your point, it allows the battery to be on a tender with the hood closed, trunk closed, and even a cover over the car.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?38979-The-Brew-City-Cobra-427W-IRS-Quick-Jacks-Installed-Horn-Updated&p=559614&viewfull=1#post559614
That's a really clean install. I'll definitely take a look at that setup. It would work well on my under-dash panels. Thanks!
One down, one to go. Then the drilling.
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I got the other rollbar done. This one went much faster because I knew what needed to be adjusted, but it's still not a fun job. On both of them, the hoop stud and rear leg were not perfectly aligned, as expected. This creates an uneven gap that I addressed by taking the end of the rear tube out of square to match the hoop stub (if that makes sense). Not unlike something you'd do in finish carpenty. This closes the gap a creates an illusion that things are aligned. I have a tiny bit of refinement to do, but overall I'm happy with the results. After that I'll drill for the bolts.
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Blitzboy54
12-19-2024, 09:35 PM
Looks great! I did the same thing. I had a 1mm one sided gap. Shaved it down on the high spot to marry it up.
Bear of a job, all kinds of respect for you MKI-III folks :)
Looks great! I did the same thing. I had a 1mm one sided gap. Shaved it down on the high spot to marry it up.
Bear of a job, all kinds of respect for you MKI-III folks :)
Thanks Jesse, and no kidding -- this was not a plug & play job, and I didn't expect it to be.
The roll bars are now installed and I'm happy with how they turned out. I'll clean up the ends before they go to powder coat, but the important part is done -- they're solid and level with each other. These things have some heft to them. I can't imagine trying to install these if they were powder coated or chromed... they would almost certainly get damaged (at least with me as the installer). I think Jesse mentioned this in his build thread.
I chose to tap the sleeve where the rear leg mates to the hoop, and install 5/16-24 screws on opposite sides. Those in the picture are what I had. Maybe I'll keep them, or maybe I'll change them. Not important right now.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=207870&d=1734810640
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=207871&d=1734810640
The rear leg on the passenger side had very slight movement when I shook the hoop back and forth with all my weight. I mean very slight, as in the leg would slide on the rear stub a hair, likely less. But enough to cause the thru-bolt to make a noise. This would inevitably drive me nuts, especially with the bar so close to my ears. Obviously tightening the thru-bolts does nothing because they don't actually tighten the bar to the stub. So I decided to tap for a 3/8-16 set screw on each of the rear legs. No more noise. I'll probably do the same on each of the other four legs -- maybe unnecessary but why not preempt noises where I can?
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=207872&d=1734810640
Lastly, since I still have the 1.5" bars, I decided to install one of them in the middle for triple rollover protection. I think it's a good look... what do you think?
No, I just wanted to see how the bars compared with the 1.5" placed at their install height. The picture doesn't show this well, but because the 2" bars need to slide all the way down to the base of the stubs, they end up being about 1/2" lower than the 1.5" bars. This, combined with their extra girth, makes them look lower than they really are (in my opinion).
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=207873&d=1734810640
Some may ask why I didn't do all of this a lot earlier when the aluminum wasn't installed. Well, my original plan was to have no roll bars. Not only do I now have two, they're even larger. I lost that argument, big time. It's safe to say this car will look nothing like my original vision, but I'm really liking where it's going.
Got the new dash made. It's the same layout, but I wasn't happy with the way the gauges fit, and I'm changing the the mounting arrangement (the clecos in the picture have nothing to do with how I'll mount the dash; I only used them for fitting purposes). The 16 gauge panel is noticeably more rigid than the 18 gauge material from FFR.
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Because I was starting from a raw panel, I was able to fit it to the hoop:
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I was able to take the car around the neighborhood this week. It's running really well, with no leaks or funny noises (at least that I can hear :)). I knew the alignment was visibly bad, and the few go-kart runs confirmed how squirrelly it really was, so I decided to get it done. Plus at some point I need to get tires for the new FFR wheels, and that alignment would have eaten them for lunch. I don't care much about the shop tires I've got on the car right now.
I'm familiar with alignment settings and what they do from my autocross days, but I always had a race shop do it for me. I figured it was time to teach myself. I chose to use the string method for toe, and my digital angle finder for camber. I was pleased to get both dead-nuts in-spec. Later this week I'll set caster and then recheck camber and toe. I'll be surprised if caster is way off, as I used Jeff K.'s UCA measurement recommendations.
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If anyone is looking for a good instruction video, this one by FCP Euro is very well done.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IxnK1XE6ZAA
It's been just over a month since my last update, so I'm due. Not a ton of visible progress. I'm at a point where I need to get the interior done and the body fitted. I might have mentioned previously that the car is going to Jeff in 2026, so I've got a bunch of time to work with. The seats from Intratrim should arrive later this month (hopefully), so I'll need to have the body installed before I can get those in their final position.
I finally had tires installed on the 18" FFR wheels. Actually, I'm glad I waited this long because there was no need to have the tires age unnecessarily. The old Mustang wheels and tires served their purpose. I went with Falken RT615K+ in 315/30r18 and 265/35r18.
During every go-kart ride, I've had some severe exhaust popping when I lifted the throttle and it was very jerky off-throttle at parking lot speeds. It's a factory GM tune, so I was a little skeptical that I needed adjustments, but anything is possible I guess. I then remembered that I hadn't connected the TKX speed sensor to the harness because I assumed it was used for speedo and/or cruise control applications. Anyway, I plugged it in and the result was a very different car. -- this thing is so much fun. The aforementioned problems are gone. I love it when things are that simple. It turns out that VSS plays a big role with drivability based on what I've since read about the LS3 and GMPP tune. Maybe it's the same with Coyote etc. too. Not sure.
A nice day for a video, so I thought I'd post one to help summarize the current state of the project. The phone mic really picks up the fuel pump noise, but it's hard to hear when you're in the car. Hopefully it's less noticeable when it's all covered up. Nonetheless, the Walbro 255 pump isn't the quietest. I may switch to a DW200.
Tell me if you see or hear anything that I did wrong or should think twice about.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zzr7Ii_i5Sk
Its Bruce
02-02-2025, 04:31 PM
Interesting find on the VSS. I never came across that because I originally wired the VSS for the ECM to function the reverse lockout solenoid. Looks and sounds great.
Interesting find on the VSS. I never came across that because I originally wired the VSS for the ECM to function the reverse lockout solenoid. Looks and sounds great.
It was a complete fluke -- I saw the VSS plug when I was organizing a few things in the engine bay and thought "huh, maybe this has something to do with the problems." Sometimes you get lucky.
Mike.Bray
02-02-2025, 07:05 PM
It was a complete fluke -- I saw the VSS plug when I was organizing a few things in the engine bay and thought "huh, maybe this has something to do with the problems." Sometimes you get lucky.
Even a blind squirrel finds a nut sometimes.
Blitzboy54
02-03-2025, 09:31 PM
Looks and sounds sweet. Love the LS
I replaced the fuel pump today. I couldn't stand how loud the Walbro 255 was. Even my neighbor said he could hear it from his driveway. Apparently it's a common complaint with that particular model. I went with a Deatschwerks DW200 (255 lph), which I've used before. It's wisper quiet, and also has a built-in check valve.
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Nigel Allen
02-06-2025, 03:38 AM
I replaced the fuel pump today. I couldn't stand how loud the Walbro 255 was. Even my neighbor said he could hear it from his driveway. Apparently it's a common complaint with that particular model. I went with a Deatschwerks DW200 (255 lph), which I've used before. It's wisper quiet, and also has a built-in check valve.
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G'day Terry,
I have the same issue. There are a few different installation accessory options for the DW200 pumps. Can you share the part number you purchased?
Cheers,
Nige
G'day Terry,
I have the same issue. There are a few different installation accessory options for the DW200 pumps. Can you share the part number you purchased?
Cheers,
Nige
Nigel, I used part number 9-201-1014, which was specified for the 87-94 Mustang. The fit was OK. I made an adjustment to the bottom of the Pro-M hanger, but nothing major and it's secure.
Nigel Allen
02-06-2025, 08:33 AM
Great stuff.
Thanks Terry.
I decided it was time to install the outer panel of the DS foot box.
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With that done, I jumped into the part of the build I've been looking forward to the least... carpet. I'm happy with how it's turned out so far. I got both foot boxes done.
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I used the Welwood outdoor product as others have. It provides good working time and cleans up easily with mineral spirits. Hats off to those who use the spray contact cement products (77, 90 etc.) I know I would have made a colossal mess, and the instant bond seems like it would have been problematic (at least for me).
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I was interested to see how the adhesive would hold tight bends, so I mocked something up on the bench. I figured it was better to learn on this rather than inside the foot box. I usually do something like this any time I use a new-to-me product. A good use of time. in this case.
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It's been over a month since my last post, but I've been able to get somethings done in between work and life. Most notably would be the carpet which, as I said above, is something I wasn't looking forward to. It turned out to be somewhat enjoyable once I got the process down. It's all done except for the floors, which I'll hold off on until I fit my seats (expected to arrive from Intatrim in a few weeks).
Nothing here that others haven't done, but I did cut holes for access to the outer harness mounts. They're just large enough for a socket, and out of sight when the seats are in. Mike Everson's seatbelt trim rings are really nice.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=211899&d=1743124722
Rear cubby with harness eyebolts installed:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=211897&d=1743124722
And finally, the trunk. I was glad to get some experience with the other areas before I tackled this.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=211898&d=1743124722
I ended up going with Schroth's Profi II ASM four point harness. The color was a bigger mental debate than it should have been (among many others during this build), but I think they'll look nice against the black seats and dark blue exterior.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=211900&d=1743124848
Big day today. Got the body dropped on for the first time, and I'm pretty pleased with where it landed. I did very little prep work for this pass -- no bulb seal, no trimming, and no spacers at the front. I just wanted to see what would be needed. None of the cutouts are done, so I have no idea where the roll bar or exhaust holes will line up. Not too concerned though.
I think I can fit the seats once they come in.
Let know if you see anything I didn't, and/or if there's anything else I should check.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=212567&d=1744511288
The striker spacing with the body seems to be correct:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=212562&d=1744511250
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=212563&d=1744511250
As expected, the cowl will need to be trimmed. There's a gap on the PS, but none on the DS. Rather than remove 1/4" across the entire cowl, I think I'll scribe to make things as even as possible. I'm guessing this will allow me to move the body forward a little, but I'm not sure it's necessary given where it sits now.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=212564&d=1744511250
I didn't install any spacers yet (I think the recommendation is 1/2-5/8" at the front. Once I do this, the quickjack holes should line up vertically. I will definitely need to adjust the front chassis members to line up horizontally. This picture begs for some dress-up of the engine. That's a project for after the car is done. The radiator support isn't as crooked as I thought it would be. I have a Breeze panel that will help hide that.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=212569&d=1744511288
The rear bulkhead looks ok:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=212566&d=1744511288
And the wheels seem to line up evenly on both sides, although I don't recall reading any issues with that.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=212561&d=1744511250
gbranham
04-12-2025, 10:05 PM
Looking great! Nice milestone!
Greg
cc2Arider
04-14-2025, 05:57 AM
Lookin' good Terry! :)
Craig C
Blitzboy54
04-14-2025, 06:43 AM
That looks really good. Surprised you didn’t have to trim the dash cowl. I was going to do it before I even fit the body but now I’m not sure I will. It’s all looking very clean.
Jeff Kleiner
04-14-2025, 07:29 AM
Looking pretty good Terry but as I mentioned in another posting you actually need to have bulb seal in place to get the real picture. As for the front, 5/8" at the end of the square tubes will pick it up. I recommend that you go ahead and install the front tube grommets and proper size tubing now.
https://metrommp.com/front_bumper_arm_grommets_shelby_cobra_and_kit_car s_ex_17b/
https://www.onlinemetals.com/en/buy/stainless-steel/0-75-od-x-0-065-wall-x-0-62-id-stainless-round-tube-304-seamless/pid/12927
When tightened the nose will flex upward and be rock solid.
Jeff
That looks really good. Surprised you didn’t have to trim the dash cowl. I was going to do it before I even fit the body but now I’m not sure I will. It’s all looking very clean.
Thanks Jesse -- oh I need to trim it, no doubt about that. I scribed a line last night and I'll knock it down when I get the body off. I also need to trim a little from the dash ends.
Looking pretty good Terry but as I mentioned in another posting you actually need to have bulb seal in place to get the real picture. As for the front, 5/8" at the end of the square tubes will pick it up. I recommend that you go ahead and install the front tube grommets and proper size tubing now.
https://metrommp.com/front_bumper_arm_grommets_shelby_cobra_and_kit_car s_ex_17b/
https://www.onlinemetals.com/en/buy/stainless-steel/0-75-od-x-0-065-wall-x-0-62-id-stainless-round-tube-304-seamless/pid/12927
When tightened the nose will flex upward and be rock solid.
Jeff
Thanks Jeff - I wish I had installed the bulb seal prior to fitting the body. I think I read suggestions to test fit without it. I already bought the grommets and stainless tube, so I'll get that installed when I reinstall the body (after the bulb seal...sigh).
Just to confirm the bulb seal locations:
1) trunk sides
2) cockpit corners
3) rear lip
4) firewall
Is that correct?
Jeff Kleiner
04-14-2025, 11:10 AM
Just to confirm the bulb seal locations:
1) trunk sides
2) cockpit corners
3) rear lip
4) firewall
Is that correct?
You got it!
Jeff
Getting a few things done before dropping the body on again. Bulb seal is done.
New life for an old hockey puck as body spacers...
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And I threw together an exhaust hanger...
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egchewy79
04-15-2025, 08:45 PM
throw some jam nuts on the turnbuckles (at least one end) and you won't need to worry about it getting too loose.
throw some jam nuts on the turnbuckles (at least one end) and you won't need to worry about it getting too loose.
Great idea, thanks!
Yesterday I received this photo of my new seats (well, one of them at least). If they look half as good in person as they do in this photo, I'll be very very happy. They just need to install the harness grommets on the seat backs. They're also making door cards to match.
If seats from a GT40 and a Porsche had a baby...
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=212752&d=1744897451
Blitzboy54
04-17-2025, 08:56 AM
Those are going to look amazing in a roadster. Nice job.
It was a good weekend of progress. I got the body on for the second time (solo, and it took me 20 minutes!). All the correct measurements are met:
Front is exactly centered between the front shock mounts. I only needed to coerce the DS tubes inward a little with a big rubber mallet.
The body sits about 1/4" forward of the door strikers on both sides.
Front clip is sitting on 5/8" spacers at the forward-most end of the chassis.
Rockers are not attached yet; I'll wait for door fitting.
Rear QJ's are in and the fronts are ready for them to be installed:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=213380&d=1746397517
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=213381&d=1746397517
I made the cutouts for the gorilla 2" roll bars (I opted for now cutouts from FFR because I had different plans at the time). It was much easier than I expected. For each leg, I just drilled a 1.75" hole where FFR placed the mark, and dropped in one of the rear legs from the 1.5" roll bars I had. This allowed me to see how centered (or not) the hole was. I then scribed around the bar, removed it, and shaved material off with a 60 grit flap/drum wheel in my drill. Super easy, and I'm very happy with how they turned out. A few holes should probably be opened up a little more, but they're good for now. Removing material is easier than adding.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=213392&d=1746405285
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=213379&d=1746397517
The front lighting is in, well mostly - more on that below. I really like these headlamps from Bangin' Headlights (https://www.banginheadlights.com/) - they're projectors with switching halos, DRL's, and glass lenses.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=213371&d=1746397454
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=213377&d=1746397489
Unfortunately I can confirm they are 100% glass...
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=213376&d=1746397489
After dropping the headlight, I figured it was time to call it a day. Ugh.
I also test-fit the windshield. With a little tweaking, it slid into the Forte brackets and I think it sits pretty well. I measured 27-3/4" from the top screws to the rear of the door opening. I think the recommended measurement is 27", so I'm calling this good. A little less rake and slightly more visibility can't hurt.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=213370&d=1746397454
cc2Arider
05-05-2025, 07:02 AM
Lookin' good Terry :) You're making really nice progress !
Craig C
Jeff Kleiner
05-05-2025, 07:50 AM
Coming along well and looking good Terry! The windshield being a little more upright will only come into play if you ever plan to put on a soft top.
By the way, I've made that same "OOPS!" with a headlight but fortunately it was just one of the ordinary standard ones :(
Cheers,
Jeff
Coming along well and looking good Terry! The windshield being a little more upright will only come into play if you ever plan to put on a soft top.
By the way, I've made that same "OOPS!" with a headlight but fortunately it was just one of the ordinary standard ones :(
Cheers,
Jeff
Thanks Jeff. I figured the windshield angle wouldn't impact much, and I have no plans for a soft top. I don't think I'll drill the legs to lock it in place until the body has a chance to settle a bit, if it does at all.
Yeah, the broken headlight is a bummer, but mostly because I couldn't finish the day with a completed front end.
Blitzboy54
05-05-2025, 11:17 AM
Looking very good. I'm a couple weeks from setting the body myself. Lots of good examples to follow here.
Things are moving along, and it's starting to look like a car. I've spent time getting the hood and truck installed, and luckily I haven't had to do any trimming. The gaps aren't perfect (or even close), but I'm not really concerned about that -- I just want them functional and I'll leave the final gapping to Jeff.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=214091&d=1747753609
(every time I take a photo like this, I'm reminded that I need to clean up the garage. Ugh.)
The hood hinges installed and aligned with no drama. As many others have suggested, it was easy to leave them somewhat loose, close the hood, and tighten from underneath. I also tossed out the wave washers that FFR provides, and replaced them with a thick washer on the nut side and a thin/regular washer at the bolt head. There's no play in the assembly when you do this. I believe that's another Kleiner method.
The hood scoop is fiberglass and will be glassed-in (no rivets/screws).
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=214089&d=1747753609
When I installed the air intake, I was a little curious about interference with the hood hinge and strut, but fortunately everything clears nicely.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=214084&d=1747753582
I still need to decide how I'll install the trunk latch striker. Because the rear wall of the drop trunk is so far back, I may need to cut a small access hole like I did for the quick jack bolt on the driver's side. This will give me access to the nut and I can cover it will a plastic plug.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=214092&d=1747755447
(I clearly need to vacuum the trunk)
The seats arrived from Intatrim this week, and I couldn't be happier with the quality and the design. IMO they complement the fat and tall roll bars well. They're full leather with matching door cards. I'm neutral about the eyelets on the door cards, but I think they'll look nice when installed. I'll be installing them with the Breeze mounts. More to come on that.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=214085&d=1747753582
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=214086&d=1747753582
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=214087&d=1747753582
Blitzboy54
05-20-2025, 11:29 AM
Those look really sharp
cv2065
05-20-2025, 08:57 PM
Looking good! I installed the seats on the Breeze mounts as well and noted in my build thread.
Looking good! I installed the seats on the Breeze mounts as well and noted in my build thread.
Thanks, and I just read that part (and others) of your thread. I think the install will be the similar but with a slightly different placement on the breeze mounts due to the shape of the seat. Thanks for pointing me to your post.
egchewy79
05-21-2025, 07:02 AM
seats+door cards look sharp together. No pockets in the door cards? looks like you have a rear cubby but the door cards are nice to easily reach stuff like sun glasses.
seats+door cards look sharp together. No pockets in the door cards? looks like you have a rear cubby but the door cards are nice to easily reach stuff like sun glasses.
Thanks. It's hard to tell in the picture, but that bottom piece of leather is the pocket.
Things are moving along, but once again this Texas heat slows the pace.
I've been working on getting the seats installed. I'm using the Breeze mounts. While sliders would be nice, I'm unlikely to move the seats, even for cleaning, as these seats provide enough room to get behind them. I decided to mount directly to the metal rather than on top of the carpet or sound deadening, so the first step was to remove some sound deadening to make room for the Breeze seat mounts (the floor carpet hadn't been installed yet). Once I did that, I was able to position the seats and determine where the mounts would go. I then secured the mount bases, covered them with sound deadening, and installed the carpet. My original plan was for the studs to poke out of the carpet, but they aren't long enough to get enough thread engagement with a layer of carpet. This is the end result:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=215531&d=1750950890
Everything was easy from that point forward, and I cruised through the rest of the install. The most time-consuming (but not difficult) part was fitting the harnesses.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=215535&d=1750950924
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=215536&d=1750950924
On to the cup holders, which honestly consumed more mental space than they should have. Do I even want cup holders? If so, how big? And where should they go or fit? I ultimately decided I'd need something big enough to be useful, but I couldn't fit more than one of those, so I went with two different sizes. The smaller one is only big enough for a water bottle or soda can, but will probably be more useful for ear buds or something small like that.
One of the challenges is correctly placing the cup holders between the 3/4" tubes and cutting the appropriate holes in the cover. I already had the cover mounted, so it was easy to trace the frame members on paper with a crayon, then place that on the cover to mark the holes. Easy peasy.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=215532&d=1750950890
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=215533&d=1750950890
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=215537&d=1750950924
The cup holder rims don't match, but I'm probably the only one who would notice.
Next on the list:
- Door latches
- Wipers
- Reverse light
- License plate light
- Cover the dash and tunnel cover with leather
- Fuel filler
- Exhaust cut-outs and install Gas-N pipes when they get here (sigh)
Mike.Bray
06-26-2025, 11:19 AM
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=215537&d=1750950924
The cup holder rims don't match, but I'm probably the only one who would notice.
First thing I noticed:)
First thing I noticed:)
It's nothing Amazon or Ebay can't fix. :)
MPTech
06-26-2025, 12:55 PM
I still need to decide how I'll install the trunk latch striker. Because the rear wall of the drop trunk is so far back, I may need to cut a small access hole like I did for the quick jack bolt on the driver's side. This will give me access to the nut and I can cover it will a plastic plug.
I installed a riv-nut in the outside wall of the drop-trunk. Worked for me, no issues.
BTW, those seats look REALLY good in the black leather and GT-40 ringlets! Nice choice.
I installed a riv-nut in the outside wall of the drop-trunk. Worked for me, no issues.
That's a good idea.
BTW, those seats look REALLY good in the black leather and GT-40 ringlets! Nice choice.
Thank you!
It's been a really long time since I posted because I've had to go on a build hiatus while were getting our house really to sell. That's mostly done, and I've found time to get the Gas-N pipes fitted. These are the Touring pipes from Gas-N, and I can't wait to hear them with the LS3. I've been very anxious to see how they would fit, given all of the discussion about wedges etc. Gas-N told me they made some adjustments to the jigs based on customer feedback. Well, it looks like their efforts paid off because they bolted right in nicely aligned on both sides. No wedges needed :).
However, I did find that they sat too close to the body. The mounting tab was resting on the body... no bueno, so I ordered a set of four 1/4" Breeze spacers (two for each side) and hopefully they'll be here soon. In the meantime, I mocked up a 1/2" spacer for each side to see where things would land. I think it's going to work out well. The pipes now sit about an inch from the body and the tabs about 1/2". Pipes are parallel with the chassis, and the bottom of the tips sit just about even with the bottom of the 4" tubes. It's a good thing nobody will see both sides at the same time because they sit at slighly different angles and one side is closer to the rear wheel than the other. Just the charm of the car I guess.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=218924&d=1757983077
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=218922&d=1757983077
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=218921&d=1757983077
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=218923&d=1757983077
cc2Arider
09-16-2025, 05:38 AM
Lookin' nice Terry! :)
Craig C
Jeff Kleiner
09-16-2025, 07:30 AM
Wow Terry, those things are abnormally long. I’ve never seen the tip go all the way to the wheel opening like your right side, much less extend beyond like the right.
Jeff
Wow Terry, those things are abnormally long. I’ve never seen the tip go all the way to the wheel opening like your right side, much less extend beyond like the right.
Jeff
Yeah Jeff, I noticed that too and spent a bunch of time wondering if something was amiss. The perspective in the photos above might be a little deceiving. Here are some better pics:
218943
218944
So while they're indeed longer than the FFR pipes (by design, per Gas-n), and the DS indeed extends further back than the PS, they don't appear to be longer than what I've seen in other builds with Gas-N pipes (not that those are right or wrong, just an observation). If anything, maybe it will keep the exhaust tone further behind my ears.
218945
218946
218947
Even the Superformance MkIII's seem to have longer pipes.
218948
The Gas-N Touring pipes are installed and I'm very happy with the sound. Not much (if any) quieter than the FFR pipes, but the tone is definitely smoother.
A very quick video: https://youtu.be/7ELAkF7PYaQ
For some reason the DS pipe is about 2" longer than the PS, as pictured in my previous posts. Horacio at Gas-N has been great and will be sending me a revised pipe to match the PS. Otherwise the pipes fit very well. In the meantime, I'm running both as-is because I need to transport the car to our new house over the next month and I don't want to run open headers while I put it on the trailer.
Thanks for the clip, I love the LS3 engine and was curious how it sounded with these side pipes. Is this the engine with the stock or slightly hotter cam? It sounds very smooth. Looking good!
Thanks for the clip, I love the LS3 engine and was curious how it sounded with these side pipes. Is this the engine with the stock or slightly hotter cam? It sounds very smooth. Looking good!
Thanks - I was curious too! It's the standard LS3 430hp crate with the GMPP ECU and tune. I thought about the 485 or 525 versions, but the 430 is a sweetheart of an engine.
gbranham
10-01-2025, 01:42 PM
Gas-N sent you a pair of pipes that are 2 inches different in length? LOL. What is going on with this company? To say they fit great other than this is like saying 'Other than that, Mrs. Lincoln, how was the play?'.
Greg
Mike.Bray
10-01-2025, 01:54 PM
I tried to explain you can't see both sides at the same time.
Gas-N sent you a pair of pipes that are 2 inches different in length? LOL. What is going on with this company? To say they fit great other than this is like saying 'Other than that, Mrs. Lincoln, how was the play?'.
Greg
Totally fair, but my main concern all along was having to use angled shims etc., which I didn't have to do. To me it's more about how the company responds and remedies the situation, and they're doing that with no hesitation. It's a first world problem IMO, and there's nobody else offering what they do.
I tried to explain you can't see both sides at the same time.
You did indeed, and I almost decided to just run with what I had. Since I have time to work with while we move and I'll be removing the pipes to get them coated anyway, I might as well get a new DS pipe.
In my head, I can clearly see both at the same time. :)
Mike.Bray
10-01-2025, 04:16 PM
In my head, I can clearly see both at the same time. :)
219642
cv2065
10-02-2025, 02:24 PM
Kind of liking the longer one. :p
I've literally done nothing on the car since my last post over a month ago due to time spent moving.
I did, however, get it into its new home. For some reason my wife didn't agree that it was one of the most important parts of the move. Something about furniture, kitchen stuff, blah, blah, blah.
220602
Nigel Allen
10-23-2025, 04:02 PM
And what a fine home for a cobra!
Blitzboy54
10-23-2025, 06:08 PM
I've literally done nothing on the car since my last post over a month ago due to time spent moving.
I did, however, get it into its new home. For some reason my wife didn't agree that it was one of the most important parts of the move. Something about furniture, kitchen stuff, blah, blah, blah.
220602
That garage is sexy
Nigel Allen
10-23-2025, 06:17 PM
That garage is sexy
When working/ travelling in some country locations, my apprentice and I will point out buildings like this. We call it 'shed envy' :D
Cheers,
Nige
I've finally been able to spend more time on the roadster, and I'm focusing on a punch list of things to get ready for title/licensing and/or sending to Jeff for paint during the coming year. One of those items is the wipers. I'm using the WWK-2 kit from Specialty Power Windows. I already installed the motor and wiring, so the task here is to get all of the mechanical hardware installed. Complicating things just a bit is the FFMetal Firewall Forward because it reduces the room needed to install the wheel boxes. I posted a thread about it here (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?52798-Wipers-amp-Firewall-Forward), which I'll update as soon as I'm done here.
The first step was to mockup things to see what I'm dealing with before cutting any holes.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=223082&d=1766166353
You can see there's very little clearance with the firewall (vertical side of the cardboard), and indeed I confirmed this after cutting the hole and installing into the body - the wheel box was making contact with the firewall. Fortunately I was able to cut down the shaft and threaded sleeve to provide more clearance. It may not look like it in this picture, but there is about 1/4" of room. Good enough for me.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=223079&d=1766166321
The bezels may not be as close to the windshield as most I've seen, but they work out fine.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=223081&d=1766166321
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=223080&d=1766166321
The next step will be to install the cable and aluminum tubing. I've seen several recommendations to use NiCopp tubing, but I'll give the aluminum a shot. I figure if I was able to bend SS fuel and brake lines, this shouldn't be too difficult. We'll see.
To make things a little easier, I modified the mounting setup for the motor. I originally secured it to the firewall using screws into nutserts, but I decided to fab up some studs instead. This way I won't need to hold the motor (with the cable installed) while turning the screws. It's the little things.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=223077&d=1766166321
And completely unrelated, I'll be installing cruise control soon. This is the Velocity Commander for DBW setup from Dakota Digital, and it's about as plug-n-play as anything on this car thus far. The biggest challenge is finding a good place for the box and switch for a clean install (I don't want the switch visible).
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=223078&d=1766166321
cc2Arider
12-21-2025, 04:22 PM
Nice workmanship Terry!
It was a big day as the auto transport truck pulled in front of the house and we loaded up the FFR to head to paint.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=225862&d=1771708788
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=225859&d=1771708788
She's in very good company for the trip, with a 1948 Ferrari (first to be imported into the US; serial # 0002), 3 Singer Porsches, and an Aston Martin Valkyrie. The driver Jeff treated me just like mine was an original.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=225860&d=1771708788
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=225861&d=1771708788
Its Bruce
02-21-2026, 04:49 PM
Congrats!
Blitzboy54
02-21-2026, 05:54 PM
Congrats man, I’m right behind you!
What color(s) you going with?
Congrats man, I’m right behind you!
What color(s) you going with?
Thanks! The list right now includes:
Viking
Guardsman
Bentley Portofino Blue
Porsche Gemini Blue
Mercredes Crystal Laurite Silver
And maybe Porsche Lapis Blue if I decide to go dark.
Needless to say, I've got some narrowing down to do. I would really like a silverish blue without going baby Blue. Or a very bright silver.
Mike.Bray
02-22-2026, 11:13 AM
That trailer has a nice load of cars! Yours included!
Just remember and as that first photo shows, these are already small cars. A dark color only makes it look smaller....
That trailer has a nice load of cars! Yours included!
Just remember and as that first photo shows, these are already small cars. A dark color only makes it look smaller....
I've noticed that, especially when it was parked next to my wife's Tahoe, nevermind my 3/4 ton truck. This is along the lines of what I have in mind, and perhaps this exact color (Porsche Gemini Blue Metallic)...
225887
225888
I need to get Ken to do a spray-out.
Mike.Bray
02-22-2026, 11:35 AM
That's a pretty color. To me it looks like a modern version of original Cobra blues like Guardsman.
benblaney
02-22-2026, 12:43 PM
I had a Boxster in Lapis Blue, and think it's a really really handsome dark blue.
Having said that, a color can look really good on one car, and not so good on another!
cc2Arider
02-22-2026, 04:02 PM
Awesome Terry! Let us know what you choose :)
Craig C